SEKAI Explorer Guide Bangkok (2011)

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Table of Content:

• Districts

Siam Square

Sukhumvit

Silom

Rattanakosin

Khao San Road

Yaowarat and Phahurat

Dusit

Thonburi

Pratunam

Phahonyothin

Ratchadaphisek

Ramkhamhaeng

• Understand

History

Addresses and navigation

Climate

Literature

Movies

• Get in

By plane

Suvarnabhumi Airport

Facilities

Transportation

Accommodation near the airport

Don Muang Airport

By bus

By train

By ship

By car

• Get around

By public transit

Skytrain

Metro

Airport Rail Link

By boat

Chao Phraya Express Boat

Saen Saep Express Boat

River taxi

By taxi

Metered taxi

Tuk-tuk

Motorbike taxi

By bus

By car

• See

Itineraries

• Do

Bicycle tours

Food tours

Canal tours

Muay Thai

Cultural performances

Pampering

Entertainment

Festivals

• Learn

• Buy

• Eat

Street food

Ethnic cuisine

Dinner cruises

• Drink

Go-go and beer bars

Gay nightlife

• Sleep

• Contact

Internet

Telephone

Mail

• Stay safe

Scams

Go-go bars

Animal abuse

Political unrest

Food and water

• Cope

Publications

Medical tourism

Immigration office

Embassies

• Get out

Central Plains

Further destinations

Districts

Bangkok is a huge and modern city humming with nightlife and fervor. Administratively, it is split up into 50 districts (เขต khet), which are further split into 154 subdistricts (แขวง khwaeng), but these are more often used in official business and for addresses. Visitors will find the conceptual division below of the main areas more useful for getting around.

Siam Square
The area around Siam Square, including Ratchaprasong and Phloen Chit Road, is Bangkok's modern commercial core, full of glitzy malls and hotels. The Skytrain intersection at Siam Square is the closest thing Bangkok has to a center.

Sukhumvit
The long Sukhumvit Road is an exclusive district popular among expatriates and upper class locals. It is filled with quality hotels, restaurants and nightclubs. Part of its nightlife represents Bangkok's naughty image, particularly Soi Cowboy and Nana Entertainment Plaza.

Silom
The area around Silom Road and Sathorn Road is Thailand's sober financial center by day, but Bangkok's primary party district by night when quarters like the infamous Patpong come alive.

Rattanakosin
Between the river and downtown lies the densely packed "Old Bangkok", home to Bangkok's best-known sights, such as the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.

Khao San Road
On the northern part of Rattanakosin, Bangkok's backpacker mecca Khao San Road and the surrounding district of Banglamphu have everything a budget traveler could possibly be looking for.

Yaowarat and Phahurat
Along Yaowarat Road you will find Bangkok's Chinatown, while Phahurat Road is the home of the city's sizable Indian community. This multicultural district is filled with temples, shrines, seafood restaurants and street markets.

Dusit
This leafy, European-style area is the political center of Thailand, home to numerous political institutions and the monarchy. Its breezy palaces, lush gardens and broad avenues give this district its distinct character.

Thonburi
The quieter west bank of the Chao Phraya river. Most visitors explore this district with a canal tour, at least taking in Wat Arun, the Royal Barges National Museum and one of the floating markets.

Pratunam
Pratunam is a large garment market with hundreds of fashion stores selling both retail and wholesale. It also includes Baiyoke Tower II and Victory Monument.

Phahonyothin
The area around Phahonyothin Road and Viphavadi Rangsit Road is a large suburb in northern Bangkok. In weekends, it is the best place to go hunting for bargains. The Chatuchak Weekend Market has more than 8000 stalls selling anything and everything under the sun.

Ratchadaphisek
Since the completion of the metro line, Ratchadaphisek Road has developed into an entertainment mecca for the locals. The sois of "Ratchada" are popular clubbing spots, as is Royal City Avenue (RCA).

Ramkhamhaeng
Along Ramkhamhaeng Road lies a vast residential area with big shopping malls and amusement parks (like Safari World). Each neighborhood has its own distinct character, but Hua Mark and Bang Kapi stand out as lively areas with many students from the universities.

Around Bangkok are the provinces of Nakhon Pathom to the west, Nonthaburi to the northwest, Pathum Thani to the north, Chachoengsao to the east, Samut Prakan to the southeast and Samut Sakhon to the southwest.

Understand

Just under 14 degrees north of the Equator, Bangkok is a tropical metropolis that is also one of the most traveller-friendly cities in Asia. A furious assault on the senses, visitors are immediately confronted by the heat, the pollution and the irrepressible smile that accompanies many Thais. Despite the sensationalized international news reports and first impressions, the city is surprisingly safe (except from some petty crimes) and more organized than it initially appears, and full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. The high relative humidity and warm temperature favour the growth of tropical plants — you'll find exotic orchids and delicious fruit everywhere. Bougainvillea and frangipani bloom practically all over the city. Thai cuisine is justifiably famous, varied, and affordable. Bangkok for many represents the quintessential Asian capital. Saffron-robed monks, garish neon signs, graceful Thai architecture, spicy dishes, colourful markets, traffic jams, and the tropical climate come together in a happy coincidence. It is difficult to leave with lukewarm impressions of the city.

History

"Bangkok" originally was a small village on the west bank of the Chao Phraya river. After the fall of Ayutthaya in the late 18th century, King Taksin the Great turned that village into Siam's new capital and renamed it Thonburi. In 1782, King Rama I moved the capital to the eastern bank of the river at Rattanakosin; originally the site of a Chinese community, who were moved outside of the new city walls to Yaowarat. King Rama I named the city Krung Thep, as it is now known to Thais and which in English is translates as the "City of Angels".

The full name "Krung thep mahanakhon amorn ratanakosin mahintharayutthaya mahadilok popnoparat ratchathani burirom udomratchanivetmahasathan amornpiman avatarnsathit sakkathattiyavisnukarmprasit" (กรุงเทพมหานคร อมรรัตนโกสินทร์ มหินทรายุธยามหาดิลกภพ นพรัตน์ราชธานี บุรีรมย์อุดมราชนิเวศน์มหาสถาน อมรพิมานอวตารสถิต สักกะทัตติยะวิษณุกรรมประสิทธิ์) is listed as the world's longest location name by the Guinness Book of Records; an English rendering goes like this: "The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city of Ayutthaya of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn". The original village of Bangcok has long since ceased to exist, but foreigners never caught on to the change.

Life was taking place on the water; ordinary people lived on bamboo-rafts along the the river, while floating vendors roamed the water to sell fruit and vegetables. The only stone structures built on land were temples and palaces. In the 19th-century, Western powers incorporated much of Southeast Asia into their colonial empires. King Rama IV and V felt that the only way to keep Siam independent was to modernize the country along European lines. Traditional canals were filled up and turned into roads. King Rama V moved the residence of the King to Dusit and laid out that district's grand boulevards along European lines.

Bangkok really started to develop after World War II. The economic center shifted from the orderly planned city of Rattanakosin in an eastward direction, leaving Bangkok without an obvious center. Bangkok established itself as the driving power behind Thailand's new role as a newly industrializing country from the 1980s onwards. Rapid economic growth has attracted migration from the countryside, with millions of Thais moving here from Isaan to make a living.

This rapid expansion turned Bangkok into one of the most cosmopolitan and happening cities in Asia; but also ensured numerous problems. A wide gap has emerged between those who profit from economic activity, and those who came to the city from the countryside in search of work. Bangkok's seemingly never-ending traffic jams continue as the new Skytrain and metro systems are too expensive for the working class. Getting a break from the fumes in a park would seem to be a good idea, if it wasn't that Bangkok having the lowest amount of green space among all capitals in the world.

Addresses and navigation

Addresses in Bangkok use the Thai addressing system, which may be a little confusing to the uninitiated. Large roads such as Silom or Sukhumvit are thanon (ถนน), often abbreviated Th or glossed "Road", while the side streets branching off from them are called soi (ซอย). Sois are numbered, with even numbers on one side and odd numbers on the other side. Thus, an address like "25 Sukhumvit Soi 3" means house/building number 25 on the 3rd soi of Sukhumvit Road. While the soi numbers on each side will always advance upward, the numbers often do not advance evenly between sides — for example, Soi 55 could be across from soi 36. Many well-known sois have an additional name, which can be used instead of the number. Sukhumvit Soi 4 is also known as "Soi Nana", so the address above might thus also be expressed as "25 Soi Nana". The extension /x is used for new streets created between existing streets, as seen in Sukhumvit's soi pattern 7, 7/1, 7/2, 9, 11. Note that some short alleys are called trok (ตรอก) instead of soi.

To make things a little more complex, some large sois like Soi Ekkamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) and Soi Ari (Phahonyothin Soi 7) have their own sois. In these cases, an address like "Ari Soi 3" means "the 3rd soi off Soi Ari", and you may even spot addresses like "68/2 Ekkamai Soi 4, Sukhumvit 63 Road", meaning "2nd house beside house 68, 4th soi off Ekkamai, the 63rd soi of Sukhumvit". In many sois, the house numbers are not simply increasing, but may spread around.

To further bewilder the tourist who doesn't read Thai, the renderings of Thai street names in the Latin alphabet are not consistent. The road running towards the (former) airport from Victory Monument may be spelled Phahonyothin or Phahon Yothin or Pahon Yothin or Phaholyothin depending on which street sign or map you consult. It's all the same in Thai, of course, only the romanization varies.

And if that's not confusing enough, most of the larger streets tend to change names altogether every few kilometers. Sukhumvit is called Sukhumvit on one side of the tollway (roughly east), but it becomes Phloen Chit just before you cross Witthayu Road (aka Wireless Road) going towards the river. Keep going just a few more streets and it becomes Rama I Road (or Phra Ram Neung Road) after you pass Ratchadamri Road. But if you were to turn right onto Ratchadamri, in just a few blocks you'll find yourself on Ratchaprarop Road (past Phetchaburi, aka New Phetburi, which is called Phitsanulok closer to the river). Got it?

Fortunately, there's logic to these name changes: most of them are neighborhoods. It wouldn't make sense to call the road Sukhumvit if it's no longer running through the Sukhumvit area, would it? Thus, Sukhumvit becomes Phloen Chit where it runs though the Phloen Chit area. It's when you're able to grasp the city in terms of its neighborhoods that it both becomes more navigable and more charming. Likewise, Pratunam and Chatuchak are much more than just markets; they're boroughs, each with their own distinct character.

Related to this last point, compass directions are not widely used by Thais to navigate in Bangkok. That's probably because they aren't very useful; the city's Darwinistic layout, the changing street names, the winding river, and the lack of obvious landmarks all conspire to confuse your internal compass. Thus, asking for directions in terms of "Is that west from here?" will probably earn you little more than a confused look from a local. You're better off to familiarize yourself with the neighborhoods and navigate to and from them. "How do I get to Thong Lo?" will get you there faster than asking for directions to Sukhumvit Soi 55.

One exception: the Chao Phraya River is the landmark in Bangkok, and many directional references can be made as "toward the river" or "away from the river". If you aren't too close, that is: since the river winds around the most popular tourist areas, river references tend to be most helpful when you're wandering farther afield than Khao San Road, Sanam Luang or Rattanakosin. And wander you should.

Climate

Climate

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Daily highs (°C)

32

33

34

35

34

33

33

33

32

32

32

31

Nightly lows (°C)

21

23

25

26

26

25

25

25

25

24

23

21

Precipitation (cm)

9

29

28

64

220

149

154

196

344

241

48

9

Check Bangkok's 7 day forecast (see "Metropolitan") at TMD.go.th

According to the World Meteorological Organization, Bangkok is the world's hottest city. Located just 14 degrees north of the Equator, Bangkok is sunny at any time of the year with temperatures over 30°C (86°F).

The most pleasant time to visit is the cool season that lasts from November till February. It is both the coolest and driest period — the Emerald Buddha statue in Wat Phra Kaew even wears a scarf during this period! Don't think that's necessary though — daytime temperatures still hover around 30°C (86°F), but it does cool down into the lower 20s as it gets dark (lower 70s in Fahrenheit). March and April represent the hot season, and hot it is — 35°C (95°F) on average, but don't be surprised to see temperatures rising into the 40s °C (around 100 °F+). This is the worst season to visit Bangkok, so plan in a lot of air-conditioned shopping mall visits and get a hotel with a swimming pool. Then there's the wet season that runs from May till October. Expect massive downpours resulting in floods all over the city, and spells of thunder at times. It's not all bad though — the afternoon showers are actually a pleasant way to cool down from the heat, and while they may last all day, usually they're over within an hour. Extreme rainfall happens in September and October, so these months are best avoided.

Whatever season you're visiting, don't take the weather lightly — temple-tramping in the middle of the soaring afternoon sun can be a challenge, so come well-prepared. Dress lightly for the weather, but keep in mind that some palaces and temples (notably the Grand Palace) have a strict dress code. Also be sure, and this cannot be said enough, drink enough fluids! You don't have a reason not to, as 7-Elevens and other convenience stores are abundant in Bangkok and they sell cooled beverages for as little as 10 baht. Locals get their water from "reverse osmosis" purified water machines that fill up a bottle for less than 3 baht.

Literature

- The Butterfly Trap (Dennis Jon, 2003). This book is best described as a travelogue. It gives a realistic and non-judgmental first-person account of Bangkok's nightlife industry.

Movies

Foreign films were popular in Thailand from the get-go, but in the 1920s a local film industry started to emerge in Bangkok. The most critically acclaimed Thai movies were produced in the "three waves" of the Bangkokian film industry, the 1930s, the 1950s and the late 1990s/2000s, although movies made before World War II have unfortunately been lost. Predominant genres are action, historical epics, romance and gay/transgender movies, almost always intertwined with elements of comedy. The following are staged (at least partly) in Bangkok:

- Bangkok Dangerous (บางกอกแดนเจอรัส เพชฌฆาตเงียบ อันตราย, The Pang Brothers, 1999). The debut of the Pang Brothers, Bangkok Dangerous is a stylish movie about a hitman who finds love, and realizes how his actions are hurting good people.

- Iron Ladies (สตรีเหล็ก, Youngyooth Thongkonthun, 2000). This movie follows the true story of a men's volleyball team that almost entirely consists of gay and transgender players. The team competes for the 1996 national championships, and while the crowd loves them, they are being judged by other teams and match officials.

- The Beach (Danny Boyle, 2000). Richard (played by Leonardo DiCaprio) is a young American backpacker looking for adventure. In Khao San Road, he meets Daffy, who makes him believe a beach paradise exists on a secret island. While not necessarily a good movie, it is popular among backpackers; besides Bangkok, some scenes in this Hollywood production are filmed in Ko Phi Phi, a beach island in Southern Thailand.

- Ong-Bak: Muay Thai Warrior (องค์บาก, Prachya Pinkaew, 2003). Martial-arts star Tony Jaa's breakthrough film and an absolute must-see for those interested in Muay Thai or fight choreography. Many places in Bangkok are featured, but don't think Khao San Road is the underground fighting den as it is portrayed.

- Bangkok Traffic (Love) Story (รถไฟฟ้า..มาหานะเธอ, Adisorn Tresirikasem, 2009). While it could be described as a typical Thai chick flick aimed at middle-class Bangkokian women, it does give a good insight in Bangkok's traffic hassle and transportation networks. The movie's acronym (BTS) refers to Bangkok's Skytrain, which plays an important role in the film (which was released exactly 10 years after the opening of it).

Get in

By plane

Bangkok is served by two airports: Suvarnabhumi Airport [2] and Don Muang Airport [3]. Suvarnabhumi Airport is used by all airlines in Thailand, except for domestic flights on Nok Air and Orient Thai, which still use the old Don Muang Airport. Both these airports are about 30 kilometers (19 miles) from the city center, so be prepared for a long ride to get into the city. Do allow at least 3 to 4 hours to travel between city and airport, due to the possible heavy congestion on the roads or technical problems of their connecting trains system.

Suvarnabhumi Airport

Located 30 kilometers (19 miles) to the east of Bangkok, space-age Suvarnabhumi Airport (สุวรรณภูมิ, pronounced "soo-wanna-poom") (IATA: BKK) (ICAO: VTBS) started operations in September 2006 and is now Bangkok's main airport and the busiest airport in Southeast Asia. It is used for almost all international and domestic flights to Bangkok. There is only one terminal building, which covers both domestic and international flights, but it is huge (by some measures the world's largest), so allow time for getting around. There are two Immigration sections, if there is a large queue check out the other one, processing time is lengthy. Certain companies offer a Fast Track service from aircraft door - see [4]

Facilities

Suvarnabhumi offers all facilities you would expect from a major international airport. There's a transit hotel, ATMs, money exchange, restaurants, tax-free shops, an observation lounge and even a "redemption booth", very reassuring for karmically challenged passengers. There are about 50 dining venues spread over the terminal building. The one that sounds most interesting probably is "Panda Ready To Eat", but the cheapest place for a meal is Magic Food Point on level 1, near gate 8. There are a few stores in the check-in area, including a convenience store and a post office; however, the real shopping experience awaits travelers on the other side of immigration in the departure area, where the number of shops and duty free outlets leaves you wondering whether you are in an airport or a mall. There is not much to see at the observation deck on the seventh floor, since the steel structure of the roof blocks most of the view.

Transportation

There are plenty of ways to get into the city from Suvarnabhumi Airport. Most people opt for the Airport Rail Link, by far the fastest way to get into downtown. Those heading to Khao San Road can opt for the direct Airport Express bus. There are also public taxis that can bring you directly to your intended destination.

Located on the basement level of the passenger terminal, the Airport Rail Link [5] offers a high-speed train service to downtown Bangkok. It's also a way of avoiding Bangkok's horrendous rush hour traffic, particularly when it's raining. Trains run from 6AM till midnight every day and travel at an amazing 160 km an hour. However, technical difficulties do occur at times, please plan for earlier time to avoid problems to get to your destination on time. Two different services are operated:

- The non-stop Express Line brings you directly to Makkasan station in 15 minutes (official duration; unofficially there are chances it's taking around 30 minutes) for 150 baht, with plenty of space of luggage. Express trains leave Suvarnabhumi Airport every 30 minutes. Makkasan station is technically at walking distance of Phetchaburi MRT station, but the link bridge is still under construction and it's quite a hike at the moment (300+ meters). You can take bus 556 here that heads directly for the Southern Bus Terminal (the bus stop is not clearly marked though). Since January 2011, people flying Thai International and Bangkok Airways can check bags in at Makkasan station 13 to 3 hours before flight departure. In the near future all airlines will offer city check in.

- The slightly slower City Line is a commuter rail line that stops at all stations. Trains leave every 15 minutes, and after Makkasan station continue to Ratchaprarop and Phaya Thai stations. The ride to Phaya Thai takes about 30 minutes from the airport and costs 45 baht. If you're heading downtown, there is a good connection to the BTS Skytrain at Phaya Thai, though you will have to buy a new ticket. If Khao San Road is your final destination, you can hail taxis from the main road (around 70 baht), or hop aboard bus 15 (7 baht); this bus goes along Ratchadamnoen Klang Road and Chakrabongse Road serving both sides of Khao San Road.

There is a stop outside the first(American),ground(English)floor exit for the Airport Express bus. To get there, walk to the far end of the first (ground)floor to your left. There is a desk selling tickets just before the exit door. It costs a flat 150 baht and operates hourly from 7AM until midnight. Four routes are covered, each taking about 45 to 90 minutes, depending on traffic:

- AE1: Suvarnabhumi to Silom

- AE2: Suvarnabhumi to Khao San Road

- AE3: Suvarnabhumi to Sukhumvit

- AE4: Suvarnahhumi via Victory Monument to Hualamphong Train Station

To take a public bus or minibus, you must first take the free shuttle bus ride to the bus terminal that is a few kilometres away. Go to the first (American), ground (English) floor and walk to the far right of the terminal. Exit the last door, and continue about 100 metres to the right, where you will see the sign for the "ordinary bus". These free shuttle buses are white in colour, and will make a few other stops on the way to the terminal. The BMTA public bus lines are:

- 549: Suvarnabhumi to Bang Kapi

- 550: Suvarnabhumi to Happy Land

- 551: Suvarnabhumi to Victory Monument

- 552: Suvarnabhumi via On Nut to Khlong Toey

- 552A: Suvarnabhumi to Sam Rong

- 553: Suvarnabhumi to Samut Prakan

- 554: Suvarnabhumi to Don Muang Airport in Phahonyothin

- 555: Suvarnabhumi to Rangsit (using the expressway)

- 559: Suvarnabhumi to Rangsit (using the outer ring road)

These services take about one to two hours depending on traffic; frequency is usually every 20 minutes during daytime. At nighttime, it ranges from 20 minutes to 1 hour depending on the route. To give an example, the fare between Suvarnabhumi Airport and On Nut on 552 is 32 baht, and the journey takes about 40 minutes in mid-afternoon traffic. There are also privately-owned BMTA minibuses to many parts of Greater Bangkok, such as Don Muang Airport, Bang Kapi, Rangsit and Samut Prakan. They charge a flat rate of 50 baht and go directly to the destination, so they are faster than public buses that stop frequently along the way.

Long-distance first class bus services connect Suvarnabhumi Airport directly with Chachoengsao, Nong Khai, Pattaya, Rayong, and Trat.

Ordinary metered taxis are available on the first floor (one floor below arrivals). Follow the "public taxi" signs that lead to the outside of the airport premises, queue up and state your destination at the desk (English is understood). You'll get a two-part slip with your destination written in Thai on it. The small part is for your driver, the large part is for you. This ticket is for complaints and is how the system is enforced: hold on to it to help avoid arguments later. There is a 50-baht surcharge on top of the meter (not per passenger!), meaning that trips to the city will cost 250 to 400 baht (plus possible expressway tolls of 45 and 25 baht). The ride takes about 45 to 60 minutes depending on traffic and location. No other surcharges apply, not even for going back to the airport. If there is a huge taxi queue, consider taking a limousine taxi, or take the free shuttle bus to the Public Transport Centre, which has more taxis. Go straight to the "official taxi stand" and wait there.

So-called limousine taxis (which charge by distance, e.g. around 800 baht to Sukhumvit) can be reserved at the limousine hire counter on the second floor (just outside arrivals), and aggressive touts will try to entice you on board. If you allow yourself to be waylaid by one of these taxi touts, they might quote you more than double the fare than an ordinary metered taxi would charge (900 baht instead of 400 baht, for example). You'd be silly even acknowledging their existence — ignore and walk straight past them.

Accommodation near the airport

There are plenty of hotels near Suvarnabhumi Airport, and huge construction projects are planned for the future. Day room facilities for transit passengers are now available at the Miracle Grand Louis Tavern on floor 4, concourse G (tel. +66-2-134-6565-6, 2000 baht per 4-hour block, no reservations accepted). Cheapskate travellers looking for a free quiet place to doze undisturbed at night can use one of the benches on the bottom floor of the terminal (which seem to be a popular choice with tourists and locals).

All other accommodation in Bangkok is listed in the relevant district articles. If you want an overnight stay within 20 minutes of the airport, get a hotel along Lat Krabang Road, here covered in the Ramkhamhaeng district. The Tourist Authority of Thailand and other hotel and tourist agencies have counters on the arrivals floor of the main terminal. You can make reservations at plenty of hotels here. Check for special promotions and also whether the hotel offers an airport pick-up and drop-off service — especially useful for late night arrivals and early morning departures.

Don Muang Airport

Don Muang Airport (IATA: DMK) (ICAO: VTBD) (or Don Mueang), about 30 kilometers north of downtown, was Bangkok's main airport until 2006. The airport currently handles Nok Air [6] and Orient Thai [7] domestic flights, but the former international terminal is now limited to charters and general aviation.

The public taxi stand is on the sidewalk outside the arrivals area (don't be fooled by all the taxi service booths in the main hall), and is probably your best bet for getting into town — it's your only option after 11PM. The same booth and slip system as at Suvarnabhumi Airport is used here. If the queue at the taxi stand is long or you need a more spacious car, you may want to book a (so-called) limousine taxi from the desks in the terminal. This will get you a slightly nicer car at about twice the price (500-600 baht). Ignore any touts outside and do not get into any car with white license plates, as these are not licensed to carry passengers.

Across a covered overpass from the airport is Don Muang Train Station. Tickets to Hualamphong Train Station in central Bangkok cost 5 baht at the ticket booth. While taking the train is the cheapest way to get from the airport to Bangkok, it is not for the faint-of-heart: schedules are erratic, the run-down passenger cars often have beggars roaming through them, and are relatively empty late at night.

There are also a number of public transport buses going by the airport, just follow the signs out toward the train station. Buses towards central Bangkok are at the airport's side of the road, so don't cross the highway! These are useful bus lines:

- Air-conditioned bus 504 will take you to CentralWorld Plaza at Ratchaprasong intersection (close to Siam Square), as well as to Lumphini Park and Silom, from where you can have access to the Skytrain.

- Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 29 will take you to Hualamphong Train Station passing by many places, including Victory Monument and Siam Square. You can also get off at the Chatuchak Weekend Market, where you can switch onto the metro or Skytrain.

- Air-conditioned bus 59 will take you to Sanam Luang in Rattanakosin. This route is time-consuming as Rattanakosin is far off from the airport.

Keep in mind that some of these buses don't complete the route. They are called "additional bus" (Thai: รถเสริม rot serm). These kind of buses have a red sign in front of them with the final destination written on it (in Thai script of course). Check this before taking the bus. You can ask the locals at the bus stop or a conductor on the bus.

By bus

Local buses, operated by the Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (องค์การขนส่งมวลชนกรุงเทพ) [14], or just BMTA (ขสมก), are the cheapest but also the most challenging way of getting around. There is a bewildering plethora of routes, usually marked only in Thai. Even Thais have a hard time with these, but at least they can call the 184 Bus Route Hotline, which is in Thai only. Bus stops list only the bus numbers that stop there and nothing more. They are also subject to Bangkok's notorious traffic, often terribly crowded, and many are not air-conditioned. If you want to get somewhere quickly and are not prepared to get lost, the buses should be avoided (remember that taxis are cheaper than most local buses in the West). However, they make for a good adventure if you're not in a rush and you don't mind being the center of attention.

But for the intrepid, and those staying in Khao San Road where buses are the only practical means of public transport, one of the free resources for decrypting bus routes is the official BMTA website. It has up-to-date if slightly incomplete listings of bus routes in English, but no maps. You can also ask your guest house about which buses to take if you're going to a particular destination. As a printed reference, the 69 baht spent on the Bangkok Bus Map by Roadway is a good investment if you're going to travel by bus more than once. Google Maps does a pretty good job with itinerary planning as well, with detailed instructions and timings.

The hierarchy of Bangkok's buses from cheapest to best can be ranked as follows:

- Small green bus, 6.50 baht flat fare. Cramped, no air-con, no fan, famously suicidal drivers, usually not advisable for more than short hops. Run by private operators, they can be significantly faster than the BMTA-run buses.

- Red bus, 7 baht flat fare. More spacious and fan-cooled (in theory). Unlike other buses, some of these run through the night (1.50 baht surcharge). These buses are BMTA-run.

- White/blue bus, 8 baht flat fare. Exactly the same as the red buses, but cost one baht more. These buses are owned by private entities operated in conjunction with BMTA.

- Blue/yellow and cream/blue air-con, 11 baht for the first 8 kilometers, up to 18 baht max. These buses are quite comfy. The blue/yellow striped buses are privately owned while the blue/cream buses are BMTA-owned.

- Orange air-con (Euro II), 13 baht for the first few kilometers, up to 22 baht max. These are all BMTA-run, newer, and more comfortable.

- Pink/white micro-buses, 25 baht flat fare, paid into a fare-collection machine located next to the driver — exact fare only. Not quite common away from the city center, these are air-conditioned, modern and only allow seated passengers (making them harder to use at rush hour as many won't stop for you).

Buses stop only when needed, so wave them down (arm out, palm down) when you see one barreling your way. Pay the roaming collector after you board and keep the ticket, as there can be occasional spot-checks. Press the signal buzzer (usually near the door) when you want to get off.

Two further pitfalls are that buses of the same number may run slightly different routes depending on the color, and there are also express services (mostly indicated by yellow signs) that skip some stops and may take the expressway (2 baht extra).

Airport buses allow luggage (backpacks and suitcases), but regular buses do not. Enforcement of this rule varies.

By train

The State Railway of Thailand [8], ☎ +66-2-222-0175, serves Bangkok with railway lines from all four directions of Thailand. Hualamphong Train Station is the most important station, located close to Yaowarat and served by its own MRT station. It is a big and surprisingly convenient station built during the reign of King Rama VI. It spared bombing in World War II at the request of the Thai resistance movement.

Tickets for trains leaving the same or the next day can be bought on the counters under the big screens. The Advance Booking Office is located to the right of the platforms as you walk towards them and is quite well-organized. You can select your seat/berth from a plan of the train, and payments by credit card are accepted. Also, finally you can book an e-ticket [9]; the price is the same, however, the quota reserved for e-booking is limited, and there are only first and second class air-conditioned sleeper tickets available.

A word of advice is to only listen to the people at the information desk — anyone else walking around offering to help you "find" a hotel or taxi is just a tout, even if they are wearing official-looking badges. Likewise, the second floor shops offering "Tourist Information" are just agents in disguise. The taxi pick up and drop off point is to the left of the platforms as you walk towards them, and is generally chaotic at busy periods with scant regard for any queue. The left luggage facility is at the opposite end of the concourse, on the far right as you walk away from the platforms.

If coming by train from the north or north-east, connecting to the metro at Bang Sue Train Station can shave the last half-hour off your train trip. This is not a very good place to board trains though, as there is practically no information or signage in English. However, this situation will doubtlessly improve as more and more long-distance departures are switched to here from Hualamphong Train Station to ease congestion in the inner city.

The Thonburi Train Station, formerly known as the Bangkok Noi Station, is on the west side of the river in Thonburi. It is the terminus for twice-daily trains to Kanchanaburi (via Nakhon Pathom). Just to keep things confusing, the previous Thonburi Train Station right next to the river (accessible by the Chao Phraya Express Boat pier Railway Station) is now mothballed and turned into a museum, but it's only 800 meters away from the new station. Note that the weekend-only second class air-conditioned "tourist" trains to Kanchanaburi and Nam Tok depart from Hualamphong Train Station.

Wongwien Yai Train Station only serves the rustic Mae Klong commuter line to the fishing village of Maha Chai. Trains run roughly hourly and the trip takes about one hour. The ride is of little interest if you want to get there fast, but is an experience for rail fans and an attraction in itself, with a nice view on the countryside's orchards, vegetable plantations and coconut groves. Maha Chai is a nice seafood destination, and if you feel like it, you can cross the Tha Chin river by ferry and continue by rail to Samut Songkhram. The railway station is about 800 meters from the Skytrain station of the same name; to get there, take a metered taxi for 35-50 baht, or walk (using a map).

By ship

Not many people come to Bangkok by boat, but there are some cruise ships that attend the city. Large ships must dock at Laem Chabang Port, about 90 minutes southeast of Bangkok and about 30 minutes north of Pattaya. A taxi service desk is available on the wharf, but charges extortionate prices for a trip to Bangkok — a whopping 2600 baht to charter a taxi (4 passengers), or about 5000 baht to charter a minibus (usually 11 passenger seats). Slightly lower prices can be found by walking out to the main road, about 4000 baht for a minibus, but even these rates are still almost double the typical rate in the opposite direction. Better deals may be possible for round trips (even if returning the following day).

Frequent first and second class bus services directly connect Laem Chabang with Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai); less frequent direct services run to the Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit). A first class air-conditioned bus (blue and white) to either will take 90 minutes or less; the fare is around 100 baht. A quick way to get into downtown is to board an Ekkamai-bound bus and then disembark early at On Nut, where you can hop onto the Skytrain. The bus will always stop here if a passenger requests it.

Southbound buses en route to Pattaya can be boarded at the traffic lights on Sukhumvit Road in Laem Chabang. These are extremely frequent (at least 10 per hour), and charge less than 50 baht.

Modest-sized ships may dock further upriver at Khlong Toey Port, close to Bangkok's city center. A modest terminal provides processing for passengers (who may receive Thai customs and immigration processing on-board), as well as offering "managers" who arrange tours and taxis. Reaching major hotels and other points of interest is much cheaper than from Laem Chabang, but can vary according to the passenger's negotiating skills. The facility is not close to the MRT stop of Khlong Toei, the best way to get there is by metered taxi.

By car

Bangkok is notorious for its massive traffic jams, and rightly so. In addition, traffic is chaotic and motorcyclists seemingly suicidal. Therefore, most tourists consider driving in Bangkok a nightmare, and it is highly recommended that you stick to public transport and not try to drive yourself around.

Get around

Bangkok is infamous for its congestion, but these days there are ways around it: hop on the Skytrain (BTS) and metro in the city center, or use boats to navigate the city's rivers and canals.

By public transit

Skytrain

The BTS Skytrain (รถไฟฟ้าบีทีเอส rot fai fa BTS, pronounced bee-tee-et) [10] deserves a visit simply for the Disneyland space-ageness of it. Built in a desperate effort to ease Bangkok's insane traffic and pollution, the Skytrain covers most of downtown and is especially convenient for visiting Siam Square. There are two lines: the light green Sukhumvit Line travels along Sukhumvit Road, Siam Square and then follows Phahonyothin Road up north, where it terminates near at Mo Chit (N8), near the Chatuchak Weekend Market. The dark green Silom Line starts in Thonburi, passes the Express Boat pier near Saphan Taksin (S6), goes through the Silom area and ends at National Stadium (W1), right next to MBK Center. Both lines come together at Siam (CEN), where you can interchange between them. Unfortunately, there is no station near Khao San Road, but you can take the Express Boat from nearby Phra Athit pier to Sathon (Taksin) pier, where you can switch onto the Skytrain.

You must have 5 or 10 baht coins to purchase Skytrain tickets from vending machines, so hold on to them. Fares range from 15 to 40 baht depending upon how many zones you are traveling. Consult the map (in English) near each ticket machine. If you do not have coins, queue for change from the staff at the booth. If you are in town for several days (or going to make several visits during the next 30 days), weigh your options and consider a rechargeable stored-value card (from 100 baht, with a 30 baht refundable deposit and a 30 baht non-refundable card cost), a "ride all you like" tourist pass (from 120 baht per day) or a multiple ride pass of 20 trips or more to any zone (15 trips cost 345 baht, 25 trips cost 550 baht; plus a 30 baht refundable deposit for a rechargeable card that is valid for 5 years). They will certainly save you time, scrambling for coins, and maybe even money. Check for information with the English speaking staff.

Metro

The MRT (รถไฟฟ้ามหานคร rot fai tai din, pronounced em-ar-tee) [11] finally opened in July 2004. For now there is only one line, the Blue Line that connects the central Hualamphong Train Station (1) to the northern Bang Sue Train Station (18), running through Silom, Sukhumvit, Ratchadaphisek and area around Chatuchak Weekend Market in Phahonyothin. There are interchanges to the Skytrain at Si Lom (3), Sukhumvit (7) and Chatuchak Park (16) stations.

Tourists do not use the metro as much as the Skytrain, but there are some useful stops. The terminus at Hua Lamphong (1) provides a good access to Yaowarat. If you're going to the Chatuchak Weekend Market, don't get out at Chatuchak Park, but go one stop further to Kamphaeng Phet (17) as it drops you right inside the market.

Metro tickets are not interchangeable with Skytrain tickets. Rides start from 15 baht and are based on distance; pre-paid cards of up to 1000 baht are also available. For single ride fares, a round plastic token is used. It is electronic: simply wave it by the scanner to enter; deposit it in a slot by the exit gate leave.

Note that bag-checks take place at the entrance of each station. It is usually nothing more than a quick peek inside, unless you are looking particularly suspicious.

Airport Rail Link

Finally opened in August 2010, Bangkok's newest public transportation system is the Airport Rail Link (รถไฟฟ้าเชื่อมท่าอากาศยานสุวรรณภูมิ) [12]. The Express Line is only useful for getting into the city, as it starts at the airport, skips all stations and brings you directly to Makkasan (City Air Terminal). This ride takes about 15-30 minutes and costs 150 baht. Trains run every 15-30 minutes from 6AM till midnight. Do plan your journey as technical difficulties can still happen & cause quite a delay. From Makkasan, you can continue your way by metro at Phetchaburi MRT station, but it is quite a hike as the pedestrian bridge is still in construction.

If you want to use it to get around the city, take the City Line as it is cheaper and it stops at all stations. Many Thais in Eastern Bangkok use it to commute to the city center. It starts at Suvarnabhumi Airport and terminates at Phaya Thai, with some interesting stops in between (such as Ramkhamhaeng and Ratchaprarop for Pratunam). The full ride takes about 30 minutes and sets you back 40 baht. At Phaya Thai, you can transfer onto the Skytrain and continue your way.

By boat

Chao Phraya Express Boat

A ride on the Chao Phraya river should be high on any tourist's agenda. The cheapest and most popular option is the Chao Phraya Express Boat [13], basically an aquatic bus plying up and down the river. The basic service plies from Wat Rajsingkorn (S4) all the way north to Nonthaburi (N30), with stops at most of Rattanakosin's major attractions including the Grand Palace (at Tha Chang) and Wat Pho (at Tha Tien). The closest pier to Khao San Road is Phra Arthit. Enter the express boat at the numerous piers and pay for the trip at ticket collector, who will approach you bearing a long metal cylinder. At some bigger piers you can buy the ticket before boarding. When the metal cylinder lady approaches you, just show her the ticket you bought on the pier.

The different boat lines are indicated by the colors of the flags at the top of the boat. These flags can be confusing; don't think the yellow King's flag corresponds to the yellow line flag! There is a basic "no flag" line (9, 11 or 13 baht) that goes along all the piers, but it only runs during rush hours (Mon-Fri 06:20-08:05 and 15:00-17:30) and is fairly slow. It is better to take the faster yellow (19 or 28 baht, Mon-Fri 06:15-08:10 and 15:30-18:05) and orange (14 baht, every day 06:00-19:00) flag lines, but you have to be sure where you're going as they don't stop everywhere. The yellow line is the fastest, but is best avoided as it skips many popular attractions (including Khao San Road, the Grand Palace and Wat Pho). The orange line is your best bet, as it covers the major tourist areas and is fairly quick too.

In addition to the workaday express boat, there is also a blue flagged Tourist Boat which stops at a different subset of piers, offers commentary in English and charges a flat 150 baht for a day pass. Single ride tickets are 25 baht. The boats are slightly more comfortable and may be worth considering if you want to cruise up and down the most important tourist sights. They only operate once per 30 minutes and stop running by 3PM.

The signposting of the piers is quite clear, with numbered piers and English route maps. Sathorn (Taksin) pier has been dubbed "Central" station, as it offers an quick interchange to Saphan Taksin BTS station. The boats run every 5 to 20 minutes from sunrise to sunset (roughly from 6AM till 7PM), so ignore any river taxi touts who try to convince you otherwise.

Many piers are also served by cross-river ferries. These are particularly useful for reaching Wat Arun or the many piers at the Thonburi side of the river. Cross-river ferries run around every 10 minutes and only cost 3 baht — pay at the kiosk on the pier and then walk through the turnstile.

However, the signboard of pier can be in Thai & not English for some piers, be alert when you start traveling & ask some locals for help to stop you at the correct pier. Otherwise you might overrun them.

Saen Saep Express Boat

The Saen Saep Express Boat serves the long Saen Saeb canal, one of the remaining canals (khlong) that used to flow through Bangkok. Mostly used by locals to commute to work, the service is cheap and you get to see the 'backside' of the neighborhoods, so to speak. Also, It is immune to Bangkok's notorious traffic jams. The total distance is 18 kilometers, and the service operates from 5:30AM till 8:30PM.

They are comparatively safe — just watch your step when boarding and disembarking as they don't stop at the pier for long and do not let the dirty water get into your eyes. To prevent splashes, the boats are equipped with little curtains that you can raise by pulling on a string, but they have to be lowered at every stop so people can clamber on board. Pay the fare (14-22 baht) to the fearless helmet-wearing ticket collectors who clamber around on the outside of the boat, ducking at bridges, as it barrels down the canal. Press the green 'bell' button if you want to get off at the next pier, else the boat might just skip it. The piers now even have (tiny) signs in English, with the exception of The Mall Bangkapi pier, and it's not obvious that you're at the mall from the canal boat!

The canal runs parallel to Phetchaburi Road, and provides the easiest access from the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin (and nearby Khao San Road) to Siam Square and Pratunam. This line is aptly called the Golden Mount Line and runs from Panfa Leelard pier to Pratunam pier in downtown. If you want to continue your journey beyond Pratunam, passengers have to change boats there. The NIDA Line starts at Pratunam and heads east to Sukhumvit and Ramkhamhaeng. Hold on to your ticket.

River taxi

Finally, for trips outside set routes, you can hire a long-tail river taxi at any major pier. These are fairly expensive and will attempt to charge as much as 500 baht per hour, but with some haggling they may be suitable for small groups. To circumvent the mafia-like touts who attempt to get a large cut for every ride, agree for the price of the shortest possible ride (30 min), then negotiate directly with the captain when on board.

By taxi

Metered taxi

Metered taxis are a quick and comfortable way to get around town, at least if the traffic is flowing your way, but be warned that Bangkok taxi drivers are notorious for finding ways to run up the fare; insist that the meter is used, and if the driver claims that your destination is closed, that he doesn't know where it is, or if he tries to take you elsewhere, just get out of the taxi. All taxis are now metered and air-conditioned: the hailing fee is 35 baht and most trips within downtown cost less than 100 baht. There are no surcharges (except from the airport), even at night; don't believe drivers who try to tell you otherwise. A red sign on the front window, if lit, means that the taxi is available.

When the meter is switched on you will see a red '35' somewhere on the dashboard or between the driver and you. Be sure to check for this at the start of the ride, as many drivers will "forget" to start the meter in order to overcharge you at the end of your trip. Most will start the meter when asked politely to do so (meter na khrap if you're male and meter na kha if you're female); if the driver refuses to use the meter after a couple of attempts, simply exit the taxi.

In some cases, late at night and especially near major tourist districts like Khao San or Patpong, you will need to walk a block away to catch a honest driver. The effort can save you as much as 150 baht. This is often also the case for taxis that park all day in front of your hotel. There are only two reasons that they are there: to take you places where they can get their commissions (jewelry stores, tailors, massage parlors, etc.) and to overcharge you by not using the meter.

Your best bet is to walk to the road and catch an unoccupied metered taxi in motion (easier than it sounds, as Bangkok traffic tends to crawl the majority of the time, and one car out of four is a taxi). Avoid parked taxis altogether, and if a taxi driver refuses to turn the meter on, simply close the door and find one who will. Keep in mind that it is illegal for them to have unmetered fares. Be smart and give your money to honest drivers, not touts. The only reason that they get away with this so frequently is that foreign tourists let them.

Be sure to either know the correct pronunciation of your destination, or have it written in Thai, as taxi drivers in Bangkok are notoriously bad at reading maps, and most drivers speak limited English. Most hotels and guest houses will happily write out addresses in Thai for you. While most drivers will recognize the names of tourist hot spots, even if grossly mispronounced, but it is often difficult to properly pronounce addresses in Thai. If your mobile phone works in Thailand, it is sometimes useful to call your hotel and ask the staff to speak to your driver in Thai. In addition, try to get your hotel's business card to show the taxi driver in case you get lost.

If you are pinching pennies or fussy about your means of transportation, you may wish to avoid getting into one of the (no longer common) yellow-green taxis. They are owner-operated and of highly variable quality and occasionally have rigged meters. All other colors belong to large taxi companies, which usually enforce their standards better.

On some routes, the driver will ask if he should use the tollway — this will usually save a lot of time. You have to pay the cost at the toll booth (not in advance and not at the end of the journey). Watch how much the driver really pays, as many try to keep the change.

When getting out, try to have small bills (100 baht or less) or expect problems with change. Tips are not necessary, but are certainly welcome if you're happy about the service; most local passengers will round up or leave any coin change as tip.

Tuk-tuk

Finally, what would Bangkok be without the much-loathed, much-loved tuk-tuks? You'll know them when you hear them, and you'll hate them when you smell them — these three-wheeled contraptions blaze around Bangkok leaving a black cloud of smog in their wake. For anything more than a 5-10 minute jaunt or just the experience, they really are not worth the price — and, if you let them get away with it, the price will usually be 4 or 5 times what it should be anyway (which, for Thais, is around 30 percent less than the equivalent metered taxi fare).

On the other hand, you can sometimes ride for free if you agree to visit touristy clothing or jewelry shops (which give the tuk-tuk driver gas coupons and commissions for bringing customers). The shops' salesmen are pushy, and try to scam you with bad quality suits or "gems" that in fact are worthless pieces of cut glass. But usually you are free to leave after five to ten minutes of browsing. Visitors should beware though, sometimes one stop can turn in to three, and your tuk-tuk driver may not be interested in taking you where you need to go once he has his gas coupons. Also, with Bangkok's densely congested traffic it is sure to waste hours of your time, if not the whole day.

If you still want to try the tuk-tuk, always hail a moving tuk-tuk from the main road. At tourist spots, these tuk-tuk drivers lie in waiting to disrupt your travels plans. Always agree on a price before entering the tuk-tuk. Also be crystal clear about your intended destination. If they claim that your intended destination is closed for the day, and offer to take you to other nearby tourist spots, insist on your destination or get out. If you're an all-male party, tuk-tuk drivers sometimes will just ignore your destination completely and start driving you to some brothel ("beautiful girls"). Insist continually and forcefully on going only to your destination; or take a metered taxi instead.

A songthaew is a less-heralded, less-colourful and less-touristy version of the tuk-tuk that usually serves the back sois in residential neighborhoods. They usually have four wheels instead of three, two benches instead of one, run on gasoline instead of LPG and resemble a tiny truck. The maids and locals tend to use them to return home from the market with loads of groceries, or for quick trips if they're available. Negotiate before you get in, but don't expect to go much beyond the edge of that particular neighborhood.

Motorbike taxi

When traffic slows to a crawl and there are no mass-transit alternatives for your destination, by far the fastest mode of transport is a motorbike taxi (มอเตอร์ไซค์รับจ้าง motosai lapjang). No, those guys in the pink smocks aren't biker gangs; they're motosai cabbies. They typically wear colorful fluorescent yellow-orange vests and wait for passengers at busy places. Prices are negotiable before you ride.

For the adrenaline junkie, a wild motosai ride can provide a fantastic rush. Imagine weaving through rows of stopped vehicles at 50 km/h with mere centimetres to spare on each side, dodging pedestrians, other motorbikes, tuk-tuks, stray dogs and the occasional elephant while the driver blithely ignores all traffic laws and even some laws of physics. Now do the same while facing backwards on the bike and balancing a large television on your lap, and then you can qualify as a local — though you might die in the process. Imagine your loved ones arranging to ship your dead body home from Bangkok because you took a dangerous risk you were warned not to. Motorcycle accidents are brutally common, and transportation of this sort is inherently hazardous. Be aware of the risk before using motorcycle taxis. Many tourists and Thai alike recommend avoiding them except as a last resort. Under no circumstances ride without a helmet.

The overwhelming majority of motorcycle taxis do not travel long distances, but simply shuttle up and down long sois (side-streets) not serviced by other transport for a fixed 5-20 baht fare. These are marginally less dangerous, especially if you happen to travel with the flow on a one-way street.

The law requires that both driver and passenger must wear a helmet. It is the driver's responsibility to provide you with one, so if you are stopped by police, any fine is also the driver's responsibility. This is worth bearing in mind when you hire a motorbike or moped. Make sure that if there are two of you, the hirer provides two helmets instead of one. When riding, keep a firm grasp on the seat handle and watch out for your knees.

By bus

Local buses, operated by the Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (องค์การขนส่งมวลชนกรุงเทพ) [14], or just BMTA (ขสมก), are the cheapest but also the most challenging way of getting around. There is a bewildering plethora of routes, usually marked only in Thai. Even Thais have a hard time with these, but at least they can call the 184 Bus Route Hotline, which is in Thai only. Bus stops list only the bus numbers that stop there and nothing more. They are also subject to Bangkok's notorious traffic, often terribly crowded, and many are not air-conditioned. If you want to get somewhere quickly and are not prepared to get lost, the buses should be avoided (remember that taxis are cheaper than most local buses in the West). However, they make for a good adventure if you're not in a rush and you don't mind being the center of attention.

But for the intrepid, and those staying in Khao San Road where buses are the only practical means of public transport, one of the free resources for decrypting bus routes is the official BMTA website. It has up-to-date if slightly incomplete listings of bus routes in English, but no maps. You can also ask your guest house about which buses to take if you're going to a particular destination. As a printed reference, the 69 baht spent on the Bangkok Bus Map by Roadway is a good investment if you're going to travel by bus more than once. Google Maps does a pretty good job with itinerary planning as well, with detailed instructions and timings.

The hierarchy of Bangkok's buses from cheapest to best can be ranked as follows:

- Small green bus, 6.50 baht flat fare. Cramped, no air-con, no fan, famously suicidal drivers, usually not advisable for more than short hops. Run by private operators, they can be significantly faster than the BMTA-run buses.

- Red bus, 7 baht flat fare. More spacious and fan-cooled (in theory). Unlike other buses, some of these run through the night (1.50 baht surcharge). These buses are BMTA-run.

- White/blue bus, 8 baht flat fare. Exactly the same as the red buses, but cost one baht more. These buses are owned by private entities operated in conjunction with BMTA.

- Blue/yellow and cream/blue air-con, 11 baht for the first 8 kilometers, up to 18 baht max. These buses are quite comfy. The blue/yellow striped buses are privately owned while the blue/cream buses are BMTA-owned.

- Orange air-con (Euro II), 13 baht for the first few kilometers, up to 22 baht max. These are all BMTA-run, newer, and more comfortable.

- Pink/white micro-buses, 25 baht flat fare, paid into a fare-collection machine located next to the driver — exact fare only. Not quite common away from the city center, these are air-conditioned, modern and only allow seated passengers (making them harder to use at rush hour as many won't stop for you).

Buses stop only when needed, so wave them down (arm out, palm down) when you see one barreling your way. Pay the roaming collector after you board and keep the ticket, as there can be occasional spot-checks. Press the signal buzzer (usually near the door) when you want to get off.

Two further pitfalls are that buses of the same number may run slightly different routes depending on the color, and there are also express services (mostly indicated by yellow signs) that skip some stops and may take the expressway (2 baht extra).

Airport buses allow luggage (backpacks and suitcases), but regular buses do not. Enforcement of this rule varies.

By car

Bangkok is notorious for its massive traffic jams, and rightly so. In addition, traffic is chaotic and motorcyclists seemingly suicidal. Therefore, most tourists consider driving in Bangkok a nightmare, and it is highly recommended that you stick to public transport and not try to drive yourself around.

See

Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles

Peoplespotting

More than any other place in Thailand, Bangkok offers wonderful opportunities for just sitting and watching people go by. Here's a partial checklist:

- University student — Many of Thailand's universities continue to enforce a uniform, and what a uniform it is: for girls, it's a sheer white blouse with a short black skirt, and the little shiny logo button on the blouse tells the cognoscenti which particular university she is attending. Boys wear a white dress shirt and black trousers.

- Office lady — Sharply clad in infinite variations of solid pastel shades, this human houseplant mans customer service desks and pours tea in offices across the capital.

- Bargirl — Mostly short and dark-skinned farm girls from the provinces, a bargirl can be spotted a mile away thanks to her pink hotpants and the kilo of gold around her neck. Often found in happy financial symbiosis with the sexpat.

- Sexpat — Fifty-plus, bald, beer belly, stained shirt, lovestruck expression and a hairy arm wrapped around a girl too young to be his daughter. He's found what he's looking for.

- Ladyboy (kathoey) — Either tall, large-handed, wears too much makeup, possesses an Adam's apple and has large breasts... or has accomplished the art of camouflage so well that you just filed her/him as an office lady or bargirl.

- Expat — A farang walking about purposefully in dress shirt and long trousers, seemingly oblivious to the fact that it's 35°C outside. For extra credit, try to distinguish between the scruffier English teacher type and the jet-setting expense package type. Or try classifying them by the old joke about the three types of expat — missionaries, mercenaries and misfits.

- Yuppie — Like every other big city, Bangkok boasts a coterie of young professional types who are hip, well-educated and relatively affluent. Similar to the Expat, they usually sport business attire and are likely to be hurried — except they probably know a shortcut, and they aren't sweating so profusely.

- Khao San Road vagabonds — Braided hair, bead necklace, sarongs, shorts and floppy pants, either on their way to or just back from the beaches. Dazed and bewildered when torn apart from the familiar surroundings of Khao San Road.

Most of Bangkok's sights are concentrated on the island of Rattanakosin, often referred to the "Old City". Out of Bangkok's hundreds of temples, the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun usually make up the top 3. The Grand Palace has an immense size, so expect to spend at least a full morning or afternoon there. Within the palace grounds is Wat Phra Kaew, the most sacred Buddhist temple of Thailand. Unlike other temples, it is not one building, nor are there living spaces for monks. Instead, it is a collection of highly decorated holy buildings and monuments. One of its buildings houses the Emerald Buddha, and while you might not expect it from its size, it is the most sacred Buddha image of Thailand.

Nearby is Wat Pho, home to the world's largest reclining Buddha image and a famed massage school. Take the ferry across the Chao Phraya River to Thonburi for the outstanding Wat Arun. The main structure is about 60 to 88 meters high and it is surrounded by four smaller prangs. It is one of Thailand's most picturesque temples, and is engraved on the inner part of all ten baht coins. It is so recognizable that it even became the logo of the Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT). If you climb it, and look closely, you will see that it is beautifully decorated with colorful broken Chinese porcelain pieces. Heading back to Rattanakosin, there are many other major temples you could visit, including the Golden Mount, Wat Suthat and Wat Ratchanadda.

Don't throw away the entry ticket of the Grand Palace, as it gives free entry to the Dusit Palace in Dusit. It is situated in a leafy, European-style area built by King Rama V to escape the heat of the Grand Palace. Its main structure is the Vimanmek Mansion, touted as the largest golden teakwood house in the world, but you could spend your whole day in the museums if you wish. There are many museums in Bangkok showing traditional Thai-style residences. Most visitors take a tour through Jim Thompson's House, the CIA-operative's mansion assembled by combining six traditional Thai-style houses, conveniently located near Siam Square. Ban Kamthieng in Sukhumvit, M.R. Kukrit's Heritage Home in Silom and the Suan Pakkad Palace in Phahonyothin are not quite as impressive, but still make for a nice experience. Rattanakosin's museums are mostly dedicated to history and culture, including the National Museum (about Thai history and archaeological remains), the Museum of Siam and the King Prajadhipok Museum. Bangkok has a small, but vocal art community, and you might want to visit the National Gallery or The Queen's Gallery, or one of its numerous smaller galleries spread over the city. Siam Square features the recently opened Bangkok Art and Culture Centre which has temporary art exhibitions throughout year.

Lumphini Park in Silom is the largest park in central Bangkok, and a good way to escape the fumes. Backpackers around Khao San Road can head for Santichaiprakarn Park, a small but fun park along the Chao Phraya River with a breezy atmosphere, usually with locals juggling or practicing tricks. It is built around the 18th-century Phra Sumen Fort with a nice view on the modern Rama VIII cable-stayed bridge. Zoos and animal farms are some of the more popular tourist attractions in Bangkok, but before visiting, please be aware that animal welfare in Thailand is not strictly regulated. Poor living conditions of the animals and inadequate veterinary care are examples of the sad mistreatment of the animal population. You can't go wrong at the Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm in Silom, as the staff takes good care of their snakes and they have a job of informing the public about the risks associated with them. Another nice family attraction is Siam Ocean World in Siam Square. It has a steep price tag, but at least you get to see the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia.

Itineraries

- One day in Bangkok — if you have just one day to spare and want to catch a feel for the city

- One weekend in Bangkok — for attractions that only open in weekends

- Rattanakosin Tour — a quick tour along Bangkok's famed historic district

- Yaowarat and Phahurat Tour — a full-day walking tour through this multicultural district

Do

Bicycle tours

Go cycling! It may sound crazy, as cycling is deadly dangerous on the main roads, but it certainly is not if you know where to go. Away from the main roads there is a vast system of small streets and alleys. Cyclists are treated as pedestrians, so you can use your bicycle to explore parks, temple complexes, markets and the more quiet residential areas of eastern Bangkok. In more crowded places you can cycle on the sidewalk. Exploring the town by bicycle has all the advantages of going by foot, combined with a much greater action radius and a cooling breeze.

If you want to experience Bangkok hideaways and countryside, leisurely cycling through green paddy fields, colorful orchid farms, peaceful lotus fields and touched by the charm of Thai way of country life at personal level, bicycle is a great way to do it. There are a handful of specialist operators that offer daily or regular departures to the so-called "Bangkok jungle" (Bang Kachao), a semi-island across the river from Bangkok with few cars or buildings, or through the backstreets of Chinatown. It sounds strange but a cycle tour in Bangkok really is the best way to discover the city up close.

- Grasshopper Adventures, 57 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, Phranakorn (Located on the main road 100m from the Democracy Monument, right around the corner from Khao San Rd), +66-2-280-0832 (journeys@grasshopperadventures.com), [15]. Grasshopper operate popular daily tours in the historic district of Bangkok, a night bike tour, and tours out to the edge of Bangkok and beyond. Tours regularly book out so prebook. 1000-1600 baht.

- Co van Kessel, +66-2-322-9481, [16]. Co van Kessel offers many cycling tours through Bangkok, taking in Chinatown, the canals of Thonburi, the "Bangkok Jungle" and many other places in between. 950-1950 baht.

- Recreational Bangkok Biking, Baan Sri Kung, 350/127 Rama III Soi 71, +66-2-285-3955, [17]. The owner Andre Breuer operates cycle tours with a maximum of 8 participants. The tour passes by a local temple, a Burmese-style chedi, a school, luxuious and poor neighboorhoods and a Muay Thai school; the "Bangkok Jungle" is also included. Book in advance as availability is limited. 1000 baht.

- SpiceRoads, +66-2-712-5303, [18]. 1000-2500 baht. They offer many one-day and multi-day cycling trips in and around Bangkok. There are trips to the Bangkok Jungle, Ko Kret, Yaowarat and Thonburi.

- Thailand Green Ride, +66-2-888-9637, [19]. These are "green rides", half-day, one-day and home stay overnight cycling trips through the green countryside of Bangkok.

Food tours

Thai food is one of the top reasons for visiting Bangkok. However, you may find it difficult to locate the best restaurants and even more difficult to order, since many local restaurants do not have detailed English menus. Taking a food tour is a great way to learn about Thai cuisine and Thai culture. Companies offering such tours include:

- Bangkok Food Tours, +66-89-126-3657, [20]. offers Food Tasting and Cultural Walking Tours in Bangkok's tastiest neighborhoods. Tours run daily. All tours include food tastings at 5-8 locations as well as visits at local cultural and historical sites

Canal tours

Another great way to see the Chao Phraya river and the original canals of the city is by canal tour. Most of these special boat trips start at the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya and head through the backwaters of Thonburi, taking in Wat Arun, the Royal Barges National Museum and a floating market. More information about these canal tours can be found in the Thonburi article. At 1000 baht or more, they are quite expensive though; a cheaper and also fun activity is to take the public express boat along the Chao Phraya river. You can get off anywhere between Thewet and Sathon (Taksin) piers as there are many things to see in all those neighborhoods. You can even go all the way north to Nonthaburi in the morning, enjoy the afternoon in this laid-back traditional urban town and take the boat back around rush hour.

Muay Thai

Muay Thai, informally known as Thai Boxing, is both a sport and a means of self-defense. Contestants are allowed to use almost any part of the body: feet, elbows, legs, knees, and shoulders. There are two venues in Bangkok to see this type of sport in action, Lumpinee Boxing Stadium in Silom and Ratchadamnoen Stadium in Rattanakosin. Sessions can take the whole evening, and the more interesting fights tend to happen in the end, so it's not that bad if you come slightly too late. The playing of traditional music during the bouts is enjoyable as well. A downer is the steep 1000 to 2000 baht entry fee for foreigners, while Thais chip in for 100 baht or less.

Cultural performances

There are many cultural performances in Bangkok that shows traditional Thai culture and dance. Siam Niramit in Ratchadaphisek is a truly spectacular performance where more than 150 performers depict the history of each region of Thailand.

Of a completely different order are Bangkok's famous transvestite shows. These cabarets generally take about two hours, and besides singing, dancing, glamour and costumes, usually it also has some comedy thrown in. The most famous show is Calypso Cabaret in Ratchathewi that has two sessions every evening at the Asia Hotel. Always book these shows a couple of days in advance.

Pampering

Spas, traditionally, were towns where public baths, hospitals or hotels were built on top of mineral springs so that people could come and make use of the healing properties found in the water and its mud for medical purposes. These days, a spa doesn’t have to be a town built on natural thermal springs. It can be a place anywhere that anyone can go to, to relax in tranquil surroundings with a variety of treatment administered to recontour and rejuvenate the body and mind.

All self-respecting luxury hotels in Bangkok have a spa that at least offers a traditional Thai massage. Prices are exorbitant, but they offer some of the best treatments in Bangkok. Particularly well-regarded spas at exceptionally high rates are given at the splurge hotels in Silom. Independent spas offer much the same experience, but offer much more competitive rates. Figure around 1000 baht per hour for most treatments.

The ubiquitous little massage shops found on every street corner in town offer the best value for money, but the smallest range of services, with offerings usually limited to massage only. Particularly Khao San Road and Sukhumvit have plenty of these popular palces. It is fairly easy to distinguish legitimate massage shops from more dubious places (where massaging is only a front for prostitution); the real deal will charge 250-400 baht for a typical two-hour massage and will often have a row of beefy farmers' daughters in white coats working on customers' feet in public view, while the other kind has wispy girls in evening dresses wearing too much make-up and saying "hello handsome" to every passing male.

Entertainment

Bangkok is a great place to go to the movies. Compared to the West, the cost of a ticket is a complete bargain at around 120 baht. Most cinemas have world-class standards and show the latest Hollywood and Thai releases. Watching Thai movies is a fun night out, as pretty much all of them have English subtitles. They are up to par with the latest technological innovations in the film industry, so expect to wear 3D glasses for some of the latest Hollywood releases, or visit the IMAX Theater in Siam Paragon.

For non-mainstream cinema, House RCA (in Royal City Avenue) [21] and APEX (in Siam Square) offer art films with English subtitles.

For other means of entertainment, Ratchadaphisek is a newly created entertainment paradise. Its bowling centers are of a superb standard with some of them resembling the inside of a nightclub. Dance while you play in style. Private karaoke lounges are usually connected to these bowling centers and are available at major hotels. There's even an ice skating rink and a top-class go-go kart track. As Ratchadaphisek is mostly aimed at the locals, you might want to go to similar venues in Siam Square or Sukhumvit.

Horse Races are held on Sundays at two alternate turf clubs, the Royal Turf Club of Thailand in Dusit and the Royal Bangkok Sports Club on Henri Dunant Road (near Siam Square).

Festivals

All of Thailand's major festivals are celebrated in Bangkok.

- Chinese New Year Festival. January or February. The obvious place to visit is Yaowarat, the Chinese district of Bangkok. The main road is closed to cars and many stores and food stands crowd the road, with grandiose and colorful Chinese lion and dragon processions.

- Bangkok Songkran Festival. Mid-April. The traditional Thai New Year is an occasion for merriment all over the city, but most notably at Sanam Luang, near the Grand Palace, where the revered Phra Phuttha Sihing image is displayed and bathed by devotees. In the Wisut Kasat area, a Miss Songkran beauty contest is held and accompanied by merit-making and entertainment. Don't think it is particularly peaceful festival though; Khao San Road degenerates into a war zone as farangs and locals duke it out with super soakers.

- Royal Ploughing Ceremony. May. Farmers believe that an ancient Brahman ritual, conducted at Sanam Luang, is able to forecast whether the coming growing season will be bountiful or not. The event dates back to the Sukhothai Kingdom. This ceremony was re-introduced in 1960 by H.M. King Bhumibol Adulyadej and is considered the official commencement of the rice-growing season (and the rainy season). Nowadays, the ceremony is conducted by Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn.

- Trooping of the Colours. December. Their majesties the King and Queen preside over this impressive annual event, held in the Royal Plaza near the equestrian statue of King Rama V in Dusit. Dressed in colourful uniforms, amid much pomp and ceremony, members of the elite Royal Guards swear allegiance to the King and march past members of the Royal Family.

- HM The King's Birthday Celebrations. December 5. At this day, Ratchadamri Road and the Grand Palace are elaborately decorated and illuminated. In the evening, hundred thousands of locals line the route from Sanam Luang to the Chitralada Palace to get a glimpse of the King when he is slowly chauffeur-driven past.

- Loi Krathong. Loi Krathong - the Festival of Lights, takes place on the evening of the full moon of the 12th month in the traditional Thai lunar calendar. In the western calendar this usually falls in November.

Learn

Thai cuisine is a favorite of many, and plenty of cooking schools provide half-day classes that provide a nice break from the day-to-day sightseeing monotony. Silom and Khao San Road particularly have some of the better known Thai cooking schools.

Meditation, the essence of 'pure' Buddhism, can be practiced at any temple in Thailand. In Bangkok however, there are also well-known centers that cater specifically to foreigners wishing to learn and practice. The International Buddhist Meditation Centre inside Wat Mahathat in Rattanakosin provides free meditation classes three times a day. If you can speak and understand the Thai language well enough, you may wish to go on your own retreat at a quiet temple on the outskirts of Bangkok. To pay for your stay, it is appreciated that you assist the resident monks on their morning alms rounds.

The Wat Pho temple in Rattanakosin offers well-regarded Thai massage courses. While aimed squarely at tourists, this is not necessarily a bad thing, as they're used to conducting classes in English. An alternative is the Union of Thai Traditional Medicine Society in Yaowarat and Phahurat.

Buy

Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles

Dump a teenager in Siam Square with a few thousand baht and they'll stay occupied for the rest of the week! Siam Square is the place to shop in Bangkok; the small sois of Siam Square have dozens of small designer boutiques. MBK Center and Siam Center are the most popular shopping malls, as they sell fashion well below Western rates. Siam Paragon and the shopping plazas at Ratchaprasong feel even larger, but are much quieter, as most local Thais cannot afford the Guccis and Louis Vuittons on sale there. Ladies will also feel well at home in the Emporium in Sukhumvit.

Just take a few steps out of your hotel and Bangkok feels like a huge street market. Sukhumvit has the usual souvenirs, t-shirts, pirated DVDs and other tacky tourist junk. Browsing Khao San Road's roadside stalls is particularly good for clothes and accessories, many of them for a bargain. While many of these stalls still cater to the traditional hippie crowd, they have been slowly gentrifying to appeal a broader audience. The nearby Banglamphu Market sells cheap knock-offs of everything, just like the night markets in Silom and Rattanakosin.

In the weekends, the Chatuchak Weekend Market in Phahonyothin is a must as its 8000 stalls together form the largest market in Southeast Asia. Shoppers can buy just about everything from clothing to potted plants and everything in between — it is a paradise for browsers and bargain-hunters alike. A weekday alternative is Pratunam, one of the city's renowned garment markets. Clothes shopping here goes on wholesale, and you're even cheaper off if you buy in bulk. At Pantip Plaza you can buy computer-related stuff from branded laptops to pirated DVDs.

Yaowarat and Phahurat give a more authentic experience, although many stores sell the cheap teen accessories found elsewhere too. Just sitting at a plastic chair and watching daily commerce evolve is a fun activity in itself. Phahurat is the best destination for fabrics, available in all colors and sizes. Pak Khlong Talat is a surprisingly fun wholesale market for all kinds of cut flowers and vegetables. If you're a morning person, visit it around 3AM, when new flowers from upcountry arrive and the marketplace is beautifully illuminated.

Thonburi, being one of the least developed areas of Bangkok, is the best place to experience what the city used to be like. A must is the weekends-only Taling Chan Floating Market, which feels at least somewhat authentic as it blends a rural market with the canal side way of life. Wang Lang Market is an undiscovered gem with strictly local prices. The other side of the river, Rattanakosin, has everything a good Buddhist would need, be it amulets, monk bowls or human-sized Buddha statues.

For antiques, Silom is the place to go, as most potential buyers stay there in expensive hotels. River City in Yaowarat is the largest antique mall of the city, and priced to match. Gold and gems are popular buys, but be extremely wary as many tourists buy worthless pieces of cut glass believing it to be valuable gems. Never let a tuk-tuk driver convince you into a gem store, as more often than not, you're being ripped off. The same rule goes for tailoring shops; you can get a custom-made suit for amazingly cheap prices compared to the West, but you have to know where to go, as many tailors provide bad quality. Avoid tailoring shops in obvious tourist areas, as they are likely to rip you off, and ask fellow travelers for advice. More information on tailoring shops is provided in the Silom and the Sukhumvit article.

Browsing second hand English-language books can best be done on Khao San Road. For new releases, there are plenty of chain stores in shopping plazas, including Asia Books, B2S, Bookazine and Kinokuniya. There's a particularly wide array of books on Asian culture and history; some have a good selection of foreign newspapers and magazines as well.

Getting money in Bangkok is relatively easy; credit cards are widely accepted and ATMs are spread all over the city, especially in downtown areas. All banks charge a 150 baht commission for using foreign cards, Aeon Bank being the sole exception to this. Two of the most conveniently located Aeon ATMs can be found in the central part of the second floor of MBK Center in Siam Square and at the first floor of Central Department Store at Silom Complex in Silom. However it does help if you make sure your bank or credit card company knows before you leave that you will be in Thailand as some will not advance money till you have contacted them and told them that you are there.

There has been inquiries on internet forums for places selling out size shoes in Bangkok. There are none. However there are street cobblers who will stitch, glue, resole or generally fix your shoes with very good workmanship for very little money.

Eat

Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles

Bangkok boasts a stunning 50,000 places to eat; not only thousands of Thai restaurants, but a wide selection of world-class international cuisine too. Prices are generally high by Thai standards, but cheap by international standards; a good meal is unlikely to cost more than 300 baht, although there are a few restaurants (primarily in hotels) where you can easily spend 10 times this.

Sukhumvit by far has the best restaurants of Bangkok, though prices tend to be high. Practically every cuisine in the world is represented here, be it French, Lebanese, Mexican, Vietnamese, or fusion combining many of these together in a quirky, but delicious mix. Bangkok's Italian town is Soi Ton Son near Siam Square. Of course, for those on a budget, street stalls abound with simple Thai dishes at around 30 baht. There are especially plenty of budget restaurants in Khao San Road.

There are plenty of vegetarian restaurants in the more tourist-friendly parts of town (especially in hippie district Khao San Road). Vegetarian dishes are also readily available on the menus of regular restaurants. On request, even typical street restaurants will easily cook a vegetarian equivalent of a popular Thai dish for you. Ask for "jay" food to leave the meat out of the dish. For example, "khao pad" is fried rice and "khao pad jay" is vegetarian fried rice. For vegans, the most common animal product used would be oyster sauce. To avoid it, say "mai ao naam man hoi". Be aware that all street noodle vendors use animal broth for noodle soup.

Don't miss out on a cold ice cream in hot Bangkok. Dairy Queen and Swensen's has booths in many malls and shopping centres. Their ice creams are tasty, cheap and safe for westerners to eat.

Street food

While not particularly high class, street food is among the most delicious food and can be found all over Bangkok — wherever you're staying, you rarely have to walk more than 100 meters for a cart of street restaurant. Many of street vendors sell satay (สะเต๊ะ) with hot sauce for 5 to 10 baht a piece.

One of Thailand's national dishes you can try is pad thai (ผัดไทย), stir-fried rice noodles with eggs, fish sauce, tamarind juice and red chilli pepper. It can be prepared for you on one of the ubiquitous carts, or in a street restaurant for about 50 baht. You can order it with chicken (kai) or shrimps (kung). Another one of Thailand's national dishes you should try is tom yam kung (ต้มยำกุ้ง), a sour soup with prawns, lemongrass and galangal — beware, as it is very spicy! Khao man kai (ข้าวมันไก่) is another popular street food. You can identify it at stalls displaying boiled chicken. Served with a bowl of fragrant chicken soup is a mound of rice topped with sliced chicken pieces and cucumber. Side sauces are spicy and go well with the bland chicken and rice. You can sometimes add optional liver and gizzard if that is your taste. If you like sweets, try to find a kanom roti (โรตี) street vendor. The crepe-like dessert is filled with sweetened condensed milk, lots of sugar, and can also have bananas inside. Also fun to watch them being made.

Khao San Road is known for its carts selling bugs — yes, insects. They are deep fried, nutritious and quite tasty with the soy sauce that is sprayed on them. Types available: scorpions, water beetles, grasshoppers, crickets, bamboo larvae, mealworms, and some more seasonal specialties. Break off the legs from grasshoppers and crickets or they will get stuck in your throat.

Around the corner from Khao San Rd in front of the department store and supermarkets the street is lined with a myriad stalls selling all manner of tempting delicacies: sweets and crackers, coconut jellies, candied fruits, fish balls on skewers,tamarind sweets dipped in chilli and sugar and a host of other delights.

Ethnic cuisine

Thai dishes can roughly be categorized into central, northern, northeastern and southern cuisine. What's so great about Bangkok is that all these cuisines are present. Isaan food (from the northeast of Thailand) is a backpacker favorite; generally street restaurants serve on plenty of small plates that can be shared. Som tam (ส้มตำ) is a salad made from shredded and pounded raw papaya — again, it is spicy, but oh so delicious. If you want to dine the Isaan way, also order some khao niew (sticky rice), kai yang (grilled chicken) and moo yang (grilled pork). Isaan food is very spicy; say mai pet or pet nit noy to tone it down. Southern Thai cuisine is also worth it; many of them have congregated around Wang Lang in Thonburi. At least try the massaman curry (แกงมัสมั่น), it's delicious.

The place to go to for Chinese food is Yaowarat. It has a range of street stalls and cheap restaurants selling expensive delicacies at affordable prices — such as shark fin soup and bird's nest. Soi Phadung Dao is the best street for huge seafood restaurants. Try 1 kg of huge barbecued prawns for about 300 baht. Phahurat, Bangkok's Little India, has some decent Indian restaurants.

Bangrak area of Bangkok on the intersection of Silom Road and Charoenkrung Road defines the Melting Pot of Bangkok. In that area, you can enjoy various Ethic eateries, from Thai-chinese, Thai-indian, to very local Thai cuisines. There are various famous noodle shops, stewed pork with rice stalls (ข้าวขาหมู), as well as roasted duck with rice (ข้าวหน้าเป็ด) eateries. A food tour operator, Bangkok Food Tours [22] run a food tasting tour in this area.

Dinner cruises

Dinner cruises on the Chao Phraya river are a touristy (but fun) way of spotting floodlit temples while chowing down on seafood and watching Thai cultural performances. Most operate buffet-style and the quality of the food is so-so, but there's lots of it and it's not too spicy. Note that drinks and tips are usually not included in the listed prices below. Always make a reservation before heading out to the pier. There are many competing operators, most of them depart from River City pier next to the Si Phraya Express Boat pier. Major ones include:

- Chao Phraya Princess, 723 Supakarn Building, Charoen Nakhorn Rd, +66-2-860-3700, [23]. Departure 7:30PM. Large operator with four modern air-conditioned boats seating up to 250 people. Departure from River City pier. 1300 baht.

- Loy Nava, 1367 Charoen Nakhorn Rd, +66-2-437-4932, [24]. Departure 6PM or 8:10PM daily. This dinner cruise heads out with 70-seater rice barges. Departure from Si Phraya pier (near River City), and there is a free pickup from most hotels. 1400 baht.

- Maeyanang, 183/59 Soi Chuchart-anusorn, Chaeng Watthana Rd, Nonthaburi, +66-2-659-9000, [25]. Departure 7PM daily. Catered and operated by the Oriental Hotel, the Maeyanang is a custom-built ornately carved teakwood boat seating only 32 people, small enough to venture off the river down the subsidiary klongs. Departure from Oriental pier. 2000 baht.

- Manohra, 257 Charoen Nakhorn Rd, +66-2-477-0770, [26]. Departure 7:30PM daily. These restored Thai rice barges seat 40 people. Departure from Marriott Resort pier, with an optional pick-up from Saphan Taksin BTS station. 1250-1990 baht.

- Wan Fah, 292 Rachawongse Rd, +66-2-222-8679, [27]. Departure 7PM daily. These two-hour dinner cruises include a set meal of farang-friendly Thai food and seafood, live music and Thai classical dancing. Departure from River City. 1000 baht.

- Yok Yor Marina, 885 Somdet Chao Phraya Soi 17, +66-2-863-0565, [28]. Departure 8PM. Operated by the famous seafood restaurant, this is a much more local (and cheaper) option than the tourist cruises: pay a 160 baht "boat fee" and then order off the menu at normal restaurant prices. Departure from Yok Yor Marina on the Thonburi side of the river. There is a free shuttle service from Saphan Taksin BTS station.

One turn off could be the cleanliness of the river that you are having dinner on, it smells a bit & having plants on top as you cruise.

Drink

Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles

Bangkok's nightlife is infamously wild, but it's not quite what it used to be: due to recent social order campaigns, there have been quite a lot of crack-downs on opening hours, nudity, drug use etc. Most restaurants, bars and clubs are now forced to close at 1AM sharp, although quite a few are allowed to stay open till 2AM or later. Informal sidewalk bars do stay open all night, particularly in Sukhumvit and Khao San Road. You must carry your passport for ID checks and police occasionally raid bars and discos, subjecting all customers to drug tests and searches, though these mostly occur at places that cater for hi-society Thais.

One of Bangkok's main party districts is Silom, home not only to perhaps the world's most famous go-go bar strip Patpong, but plenty of more legitimate establishments catering to all tastes. For a drink with a view, the open-air rooftop bars of Vertigo and Sirocco are particularly impressive. A large number of superhip and more expensive bars and nightclubs can be found in the higher sois of Sukhumvit, including Bed Supperclub, Q Bar, and Narcissus, as well as the hip area of Thong Lo (Soi 55).

Hippie hangout Khao San Road is also slowly gentrifying and a score of young trendy Thai teenagers have also made their mark there. Going out in Khao San Road is mostly casual, sitting at a sidewalk bar watching people pass by, but some nightclubs have opened here as well. Most of the younger Thais prefer to congregate around Ratchadaphisek.

Smoking is forbidden in all restaurants, bars and nightclubs, whether air-conditioned or non-air-conditioned. Remarkably for Thailand, this rule is strictly enforced.

Go-go and beer bars

Behaving while misbehavin'

Some simple rules of etiquette to follow in a go-go bar:

- A drink in your hand is required at all times. Most places charge around 100-150 baht for most drinks.

- Lady drinks cost a little more and earn you the privilege of chatting with the lady/gent of your choice for a while.

- Taking a dancer out of his/her place of employment before closing time will cost you a bar fine of around 600 baht. This is the bar's share, the rest is up to you two.

- No photos inside. If you're lucky, you'll merely have your camera confiscated, but you also stand a fair chance of getting beaten up for your trouble.

- Look, but don't touch (unless invited to). Getting too frisky will get you kicked out.

- Bring along your passport. Police raids are not uncommon and you're off to the police staton for the night if you can't produce one on demand.

The go-go bar is an institution of Bangkok's "naughty nightlife". In a typical go-go, several dozen dancers in bikinis (or less) crowd the stage, shuffling back and forth to loud music and trying to catch the eye of punters in the audience. Some (but not all) also put on shows where girls perform on stage, but these are generally tamer than you'd expect — nudity, for example, is technically forbidden. In a beer bar, there are no stages and the girls are wearing street clothes.

If this sounds like a thinly veiled veneer for prostitution, it is. Although some point to the large number of American GIs during the Vietnam War as the point of origin of the Thai sex trade, others have claimed that current Thai attitudes towards sexuality have deeper roots in Thai history. Both go-go and beer bars are squarely aimed at the foreign tourists and it's fairly safe to assume that most if not all Thais in them are on the take. That said, it's perfectly OK to check out these shows without actually partaking, and there are more and more curious couples and even the occasional tour group attending. The main areas is around Patpong, but similar bars to the ones at Patpong can be found in Sukhumvit, at Nana Entertainment Plaza (Soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (Soi 23). Before heading to these places, be sure to read the Stay safe section for some additional advice.

Gay nightlife

Thais are generally accepting of homosexuality and Bangkok has a very active gay nightlife scene, concentrated in Silom's Soi 2, Soi 4 and a short strip of gay go-go bars known as Soi Twilight (off Surawong Road). Gay strip bars all have free entry, but charge an extra 150 baht or so for drinks. The most popular gay drinking bars are Balcony and Telephone Bar at Silom Soi 4, which are busy until 11. For the disco crowd, DJ Station and its late-night neighbour G.O.D. (located at Silom Soi 2) are packed every night beginning around 11PM. Between 5-10PM over 200 men from around the world cruise, swim, dine and party at the nearby Babylon, considered by many to be the best gay sauna in the world. Babylon also has a budget and luxury accommodation.

All of these bars and clubs are aimed at gay men and the lesbian scene is much more low-key. Since the opening of full-time lesbian bars Zeta and E-Fun the last years, a small lesbian community is starting to emerge along Royal City Avenue. Lesla (near Phahonyothin) is a lesbian bar that is opened on Saturday nights only. Bring along your passport for entrance age checking (they do not allow people under 20 years old).

In a league of their own are Bangkok's numerous transsexuals (kathoey), both pre- and post-operative, popularly known as ladyboys. A part of Thai popular culture for ages, Kathoey face increasing prejudice as Thailand imports rigid Western gender concepts. Many male Westerners obsess about the risks of "mistaking" a ladyboy for a "real" woman, in the fear that being attracted to them would make of them homosexuals. Tired clichés about "tall, large-handed, large breasted transsexuals with garish makeup" are belied by the fact that most kathoeys strive to blend in with the general population. However, legal change of gender is not possible in Thailand, which means they find it difficult to access many "respectable" jobs. Some work in the famed transvestite cabarets and there are some dedicated kathoey bars as well.

Note that some Thai regulars in the gay nightlife scene skirt the fine line between partying and prostitution, and the Western visitor, being considered richer, is expected to pay any food and drink expenses and perhaps provide some "taxi money" in the morning. It's usually wise to ask a boy you pick up in a bar or club if he is after money, as it's not uncommon for them to start demanding money after sex.

Sleep

Book online, save money

While most guest houses in Khao San Road do not even bother to have a website, with moderate and upper end hotels you can save a surprisingly large amount of money by booking via the web. In most cases, walk-in rates are known to be about 30 percent higher than online rates as administration costs are higher and front desk personnel often get paid by commission. When standing inside the hotel's lobby, sometimes it can pay off to use the free WiFi, get online, book for the same night and get it for less! To give an example, some mid-range hotels offer walk-in rates for 1500 baht the night, but online rates for 1000 baht. That's five free beers on the hotel!

Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles

Bangkok has a vast range of accommodation, including some of the best hotels in the world — and some of the worst dives too. Broadly speaking, Khao San Road is backpacker city; the riverside of Silom and Thonburi is home to The Oriental and The Peninsula respectively, often ranked among the best in the world (and priced to match). Most of the city's moderate and expensive hotels can be found in Siam Square, Sukhumvit and Silom, though they also have their share of budget options.

When choosing your digs, think of the amount of luxury you want to pay for — air-conditioning can be advised, as temperatures don't drop below 20 degrees Celsius at night. Also pay careful attention to Skytrain, metro and express boat access, as a well-placed station or pier could make your stay in Bangkok much more comfortable. In general, accommodation in Bangkok is cheap though. It's possible to have a decent double room with hot shower and air-conditioning for about 500 baht per night. If you want more luxury, expect to pay around 1500 baht for a double room in downtown. Even staying at one of Bangkok's top hotels only sets you back around 5000 baht — the price of a standard double room in Europe.

One Bangkok hotel phenomenon of note is the guest fee of around 500 baht added to your bill if you bring along a newly found friend for the night. Some hotels even refuse Thai guests altogether, this is especially common in Khao San Road. These rules are obviously aimed at controlling local sex workers, which is why hotel security will usually hold onto your guest's ID card for the duration of the visit, but some hotels will also apply it to Western visitors — or, more embarrassingly, try to apply it to your Thai partner. Look for the signs, or, if in doubt, ask the staff before check-in.

- Holiday Inn Bangkok Silom (Holiday Inn Silom), 981 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Thailand (From Suvarnabhumi International Airport Bangkok( BKK) the distance is 24.86 MI/40.0 KM EAST to Hotel. Drive west on motorway that connects to the expressway. Drive 40kms and take the Silom Exit on the left, drive 500 mts and turn right onto the Surasak Road. The hotel is on the left.), +66-2-238 4300, [29]. checkin: 1400hrs; checkout: 1200hrs. Holiday Inn Bangkok Silom is located on bustling Silom Road, in the heart of Bangkok's commercial, shopping, jewelry and entertainment haven. The hotel is easily accessible to Bangkok's suburbs, tourist attractions and Suvarnabhumi International Airport, which is only 35 minutes away via the expressway. Alternatively, the Surasak skytrain station, which is just a 7minute walk away from the hotel, will take you to Chatuchak Weekend Market, Shopping Centres (Siam Paragon, Siam Square, MBK) and Jim Thompson Museum, in just a few minutes. For those interested in experiencing true Thai culture, take a 10-minute walk down to the river pier where you can take a boat to visit Temple of Dawn, floating market, flower market, Grand Palace, and Royal barge museum. *The Montien Riverside Hotel is a spacious resort hotel located on the banks of the Chao Praya River. It is centrally located and linked by the expressways with travel time from Suvarnabhumi Airport to hotel of 45 minutes, and 10 minutes to Bangkok’s entertainment and major shopping areas by our complimentary shuttle service. All the hotel’s 462 luxuriously appointed guest-rooms and suites command panoramic river views, complemented by excellent facilities, gracious Thai hospitality and impeccable service. Surrounded by multitude of local ethnic stalls, shopping centers and entertainment options, Holiday Inn Bangkok Silom offers an exhilarating concoction of activities for an eventful holiday.

Contact

Internet

Internet cafes abound in Bangkok. You'll generally be looking at rates of around 30-60 baht per hour in tourist-laden districts like Khao San Road, 20-30 baht per hour in downtown (the top floors of MBK for example), and 10-15 baht per hour if you would venture into residential areas (where the speed generally is still high).

An increasing number of cafes and pubs offer free WiFi to their customers, including the ubiquitous Coffee World chain in all of its branches (ask for the password at the counter). TrueMove offers both free and paid WiFi access. If you want to get online for free, you must register first, and both session and overall time is limited. Their network is accessible in many malls, including Siam Square, and sometimes can be available from your room if you stay in a nearby hot-spot — just look for the 'truewifi' network, you can register right there. Most hotels and guest houses provide at least some form of Internet. Some have WiFi access inside the rooms — but inquire before booking.

Telephone

The area code for Bangkok is 02. You only need to dial the 0 if you're calling from within Thailand. Pay phones are not commonplace, as most Thais have a mobile phone. If you want to avoid high roaming costs, you can buy a local SIM card for 50 baht at Suvarnabhumi Airport (or other mobile phone stores throughout the city). The 50 baht is not just for the SIM card, but is immediately your first pre-paid amount. Topping it up is easy; just walk into a 7-Eleven convenience store and pick an amount you want to add. Making international calls is also cheaper this way.

Mail

Bangkok's red mailboxes are found all over the city. There are also plenty of Thailand Post [30] offices around for sending mail and packages. In tourist areas, there are post offices in the Khao San Road area (in front of Wat Bowonniwet) and at Sukhumvit Road (between Soi 4 and 6).

If you're staying in Bangkok for a longer time, you might want to make use of poste restante; that way, other people can send you mail or parcels using a post office's address. Post offices keep the letters for two months. Letters sent via poste restante must have the receiver's name on it, with the family name in underlined capital letters. If you want to pick them up near Khao San Road, it must be addressed to c/o Poste Restante, Banglamphubon Post Office, Bangkok, 10203, Thailand. If you want to pick up your mail in the Sukhumvit area, make sure mail is addressed to c/o Poste Restante, Nana Post Office, Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok, 10112, Thailand.

Stay safe

Given its size, Bangkok is surprisingly safe, with violent crimes like mugging and robbery unusual. One of the biggest dangers are motorbikes who ride on pavements at speed, go through red lights, undertake buses as they stop to let passengers off and generally drive far too fast especially through stationary traffic. If you are going to hire a bike, make sure you have insurance in case you are injured. You may be the world's best driver but you'll meet many of the world's worst drivers in Thailand.

Bangkok does have more than its fair share of scams, and some individuals in the tourist business can overcharge unwary visitors. As a rule of thumb, it is wise to decline all offers made by someone who appears to be a friendly local giving a hapless tourist some local advice. Never get in a tuk-tuk if someone else is trying to get you into one. Most Bangkok locals do not approach foreigners without an ulterior motive.

Scams

What to do if you fall for the gem scam

As long as you're still in Thailand, it's not too late. Contact the Tourist Authority of Thailand (+66-2-694-1222) or the Tourist Police (1155) immediately, file a police report, and return to the store to claim a refund — they must, by law, return 80 percent. If your gems have been mailed, contact the Bangkok Mail Center at +66-2-215-0966(-195) immediately and ask them to track your package; they'll find it if you act fast, and know the name, address and date it was mailed.

You should always be on the look-out for scammers, especially in major tourist areas. Beware of tuk-tuk drivers offering all-day tours for prices as low as 10 baht. You may indeed be taken on a full-day tour, but you will end up only visiting one gem and souvenir shop after another. The driver gets a commission if you buy something — and gas coupons even if you don't. Unless the idea of travelling by tuk-tuk appeals to you, it's almost always cheaper, more comfortable and less hassle to take a metered taxi.

Be highly skeptical when an English-speaking Thai at a popular tourist attraction approaches you out of the blue, telling that your intended destination is currently closed or offering discount admissions. Temples are almost always free (the main exceptions are Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho) and open just about every day of the year. Anyone telling you otherwise, even if they have an official-looking identification card, is most likely out to scam you, especially if they suggest a tuk-tuk ride to some alternate sights to see until the sight re-opens. At paid admission sites, verify the operating hours at the ticket window.

If you entered one of these tuk-tuks, touts often will drop you off at a certain place, such as a genuine Buddhist temple. Here you will find a man that claims to be an official, and he guides you in a certain direction. There you will find another "official" who also claims that a certain attraction is closed. This way, a tourist hears the same statement by multiple people, and is more eager to believe that his or her intended destination indeed is closed. Never get involved with these scammers or believe any of their statements.

When getting a taxi, it is a good idea to hail a moving taxi from the main road, or to walk a short distance out of a major tourist area before looking for one. This is no guarantee of honesty, but greatly increases your chances of finding an honest driver, of which there are plenty in Bangkok, even if it sometimes seems that every driver is on the make. Most of the untrustworthy drivers are the ones standing still in tourist areas. Another important rule of thumb is to insist on the meter for taxis and agree on a price in advance for tuk-tuks. If they refuse, or quote silly prices, just walk out and get a different one as they're rarely in short supply. The Thai phrase to ask a driver to use the meter is mee-TOE, khap if you're male and mee-TOE, kha if you're female.

Beware of tuk-tuk or taxi drivers who approach you speaking good English or with an "I ♥ farang" sign, especially those who mention or take you to a tailor shop (or any kind of business). They are paid by inferior tailor shops to bring tourists there to be subjected to high pressure sales techniques. If at any point your transportation brings you somewhere you didn't intend or plan to go, walk away immediately, ignore any entreaties to the contrary, and find another taxi or tuk-tuk.

Also beware of private bus companies offering direct trips from Bangkok to other cities with "VIP" buses. There are a lot of scams performed by these private bus companies. The so-called direct VIP trips may end up changing three or four uncomfortable minibuses to the destination, and the 10-11 hour trip may well turn into 17-18 hours. Instead, try to book public BKS buses from the main bus terminals. It's worth the extra shoe-leather, as there have been reports of robberies on private buses as well.

Go-go bars

Bangkok is known for its go-go bars and the prostitution that comes along with it. Technically, some aspects of prostitution are illegal (eg. soliciting, pimping), but enforcement is rare, and brothels are common. It's not illegal to pay for sex or to pay a "barfine" (a fee the bar collects if you want to take an employee away).

The age of consent in Thailand is 15, but a higher minimum age of 18 applies in the case of prostitutes. Penalties for sex with minors are harsh. All adult Thais must carry an identity card, which will state that they were born in 2534 or earlier if they were over the age of 18 on January 1, 2010 (in the Thai calendar, 2010 is the year 2553). Many hotels retain the ID cards of prostitutes for the duration of their visit. Whilst most prostitutes are employed by bars or similar businesses, some are "freelancers". Petty theft and other problems are more common with these freelancers. HIV and AIDS awareness is better than it used to be, but infection statistics among entertainment industry workers remain high; freelancers are the highest risk group. Almost all girls insist on using condoms.

While walking in go-go bar areas is generally safe, you have to be cautious of touts who try to drag you into the upstairs bars with offers of ping-pong shows and 100-baht beer. The beer may well be 100 baht, but the "show" you'll be treated to will be 1000 baht or more. The rule of thumb is that if you cannot see inside from street level, avoid the establishment.

Do not get into fights with locals. Thais are peace loving people, but when a Thai fights a foreigner, it is never a fair fight. You'll wind up having to fight 10 to 20 others who were not initially involved, or the police will be called and not do anything to assist you (especially the Metropolitan Police, as they normally have very limited English skills; always contact the Tourist Police when in trouble). Thais are also notorious for fighting with weaponry (guns, knives, broken bottles, metal rods) or employing Muay Thai techniques. These are usually produced from their concealed locations, with foreigners getting seriously injured or worse. Just avoid all confrontations. If you do get involved in a situation, it is better to apologize and get the heck out of there. In Thailand, discretion is definitely the better part of valour.

Animal abuse

Elephants are a large part of Thailand's tourist business, and the smuggling and mistreatment of elephants for tourist attractions is a widespread practice. Be aware that elephants are often separated from their mothers at a young age to be cruelly trained under captivity for the rest of their lives. It is advised to take an elephant ride only at animal friendly organizations.

A depressingly common sight on the congested streets of Bangkok is elephant begging. During night hours, mahouts (trainers) with lumbering elephants approach tourists to feed the creatures bananas or take a photo with them for a fee. The elephants are brought to the city to beg in this way because they are out of work and are mistreated and visibly distressed under the conditions of the city. Please avoid supporting this cruelty by rejecting the mahouts as they offer you bananas to feed the elephants. This is especially common in Silom and Sukhumvit.

Due to its location, lax laws, and resources, many illegal animal products come through Bangkok. Rare and endangered species are often sold at markets for pets (especially at Chatuchak), and many other animal products are sold as luxury items. Avoid buying rare pets, leather, ivory, talons, dried sea creatures (such as starfish), fur, feathers, teeth, wool, and other products since they are most likely the result of illegal poaching, and buying them contributes greatly to animal endangerment and abuse.

Political unrest

In 2008, political unrest hit the headlines, with the yellow-shirted People's Alliance for Democracy (PAD) closing down both of Bangkok's airports for a week with several people killed in political violence. After the new prime minister was elected, things were more or less back to normal for a while, but the situation remained unstable. In 2010, new political unrest surfaced with red-shirted protesters from the United Front for Democracy Against Dictatorship (UDD) occupying much of downtown Bangkok. These protests turned violent when government troops tried to take back parts of central Bangkok that had been seized by protesters. Always follow the independent press for the newest political developments, stay away from demonstrations.

Food and water

As elsewhere in Thailand, be careful with what you eat. Outside of major tourist hotels and resorts, stay away from raw leafy vegetables, egg-based dressings like mayonnaise, unpackaged ice cream and minced meat as hot weather tends to make food go bad faster. In short, stick to boiled, baked, fried, or peeled goods.

Tap water in Bangkok is said to be safe when it comes out the plant, but unfortunately the plumbing along the way often is not, so it's wise to avoid drinking the stuff, even in hotels. Any water served to you in good restaurants will at least be boiled, but it's better to order sealed bottles instead, which are available everywhere at low prices.

Take care with ice, which may be made with tap water of questionable potability as above. Some residents claim that ice with round holes is made by commercial ice makers who purify their water; others state that it is wise not to rely on that claim.

Cope

Publications

- Bangkok Post, [31]. One of the better English-language newspapers of the country, but also includes sections on travel, leisure, entertainment, life and classifieds in Bangkok.

- BK Magazine, [32]. Bangkok's premier city living magazine; a guide to the city's restaurants, nightlife, travel, arts and more. New additions release weekly and are distributed in selected venues.

Medical tourism

Bangkok's hospitals offer generally high quality services at a fraction of the cost of a Western hospital. Probably the best-regarded (and most expensive) is Bumrungrad Hospital in Sukhumvit, which (for example) charges 60,000 baht for an all-inclusive breast implant package. Bangkok is also well-known as a center for sexual reassignment surgery for people wishing to change their physical sex, although this falls out of the scope of a casual vacation. Hospitals can be found all over the city, but the ones particularly interesting for medical tourism can be found in Sukhumvit, Silom, Phahonyothin and Ratchadaphisek.

Those same districts have proper dental clinics with English-speaking dentists and staff. The largest of them is the Bangkok International Dental Center with branches in Ratchadaphisek and Siam Square. There are also plenty of teeth whitening, implant and orthodontic centers over town.

Immigration office

The Immigration Bureau has moved from central Soi Suan Plu to far-away Government Building B in Chaeng Wattana Soi 7 (+66-2-141-9889, [33], M-F 8:30AM-noon, 1PM-4:30PM). The center is in the far north of Bangkok near the old Don Muang Airport. It is a spacious building with a ground floor cafe, restaurants and copy vendors. Visas, re-entry permits and many other immigration services are available. It is best to take the Skytrain to Mo Chit station and then hail a taxi to the government center. Services for Myanmarese, Cambodian and Lao citizens remain at Soi Suan Plu.

Embassies

- Argentina, Prommitr Villa, 20/85 Sukhumvit Soi 49/1, +66 2-590-4012.

- Australia, 37 Sathorn Tai Rd, +66 2-344-6300, [34].

- Austria, 14 Soi Nandha, Soi Attakarnprasit, Sathorn Tai Rd, +66 2-303-6057.

- Bangladesh, 727 Sukhumvit Soi 55, +66 2-381-1144.

- Belgium, 17th Floor, Sathorn City Tower, 175 Sathorn Tai Rd, +66 2-679-5454, [35].

- Bhutan, Rm 107, 19F, JTC Bldg, 919 Silom Rd, +66 2-237-3315(-27).

- Bolivia (Consulate), 1901 Ramkhamhaeng Rd, +66 2-314-0040.

- Brazil, 23F, Lumpini Tower, 1168/66 Rama IV Rd.

- Brunei, 154 Ekkamai Soi 14, Sukhumvit Soi 63, +66 2-381-5914(-6).

- Bulgaria, 33/15 Soi Charoen Chai, Sukhumvit Soi 63.

- Cambodia, 518 Pratcha Uthit Rd, +66 2-957-5851, [36].

- Canada, 15F, Abdulrahim Place, 990 Rama IV Rd, +66 2-636-0540, [37].

- Chile, 15 Sukhumvit Soi 61, +66 2-391-4858.

- China, 57 Ratchadaphisek Rd, +66 2-245-7043, [38].

- Colombia (Consulate), 9th Floor, Park Place, 231 Sarasin Rd, +66 2-254-5105(-6).

- Croatia (Consulate), 1F, ITF Silom Palace, 160/347-348 Silom Rd, +66 2-238-5112.

- Cuba, Mela Mansion Apt 3C, 5 Sukhumvit Soi 27, +66 2-665-2803.

- Cyprus (Consulate), 17F, Richmond Bldg, 75/59 Sukhumvit Soi 26, +66 2-261-8408(-10).

- Czech Republic, 71/6 Ruam Ruedi Soi 2, +66 2-255-4978.

- Denmark, 10 Sathorn Soi 1, +66 2-343-1100, [39].

- Dominican Republic (Consulate), 431 Pradit Manutham Rd, +66 2-933-5686, [40].

- East Timor, 7F, Thanapoom Tower, 1550 Phetchaburi Rd, +66 2-654-7501(-2).

- Egypt, 49 Soi Ruam Ruedi, +66 2-253-0161.

- Estonia (Consulate), 62 Soi Yodsuwan, Pracha Uthit Rd, +66 2-690-3779.

- Ethiopia (Consulate), 962/14 Phran Nok Rd, +66 2-411-0218.

- Finland, 16F, Amarin Tower, 500 Phloen Chit Rd, +66 2-250-8801, [41].

- France, 35 Charoen Krung Soi 36, +66 2-657-5100, [42].

- Gabon (Consulate), 13 Pradiphat Soi 10, +66 2-279-2800(-1).

- Gambia (Consulate), 610/5-6 Song Wat Rd, +66 2-224-0091.

- Germany, 9 Sathorn Tai Rd, +66 2-285-6627(-8).

- Greece, Unit #25/5-9, 9F, BKI/YWCA Bldg, 25 Sathorn Tai Rd, +66 2-679-1462.

- Honduras (Consulate), 28F, CP Tower Bldg, 313 Silom Rd, +66 2-641-1567.

- Holy See, 217/1 Sathorn Tai Rd, +66 2-233-9109.

- Hungary, 28 Soi Suk Chai, Sukhumvit Soi 42, +66 2-661-1150(-2).

- Iceland (Consulate), 59 Soi Navin, +66 2-249-1300.

- India, 46 Sukhumvit Soi 23, +66 2-258-0300(-5), [43].

- Indonesia, 600-602 Phetchaburi Rd, +66 2-252-3135(-40).

- Iran, 602 Sukhumvit Rd, +66 2-261-9790(-3).

- Iraq, 47 Pradiphat Rd, +66 2-278-5335(-8).

- Ireland (Consulate), 28F, Q House Lumpini Bldg, 1 Sathorn Tai Rd, +66 2-677-7500.

- Israel, 25th Floor, Ocean Tower, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 19, +66 2-260-4854(-9).

- Italy (27th and 40th floor), All season, CRC Tower, 87 Wireless Road, Bangkok, +66 2-285-4090(-3), [44].

- Japan, 177 Witthayu Rd, +66 2-207-8500, [45].

- Jordan (Consulate), 47 Sukhumvit Soi 63, +66 2-391-7142.

- Kazakhstan, Ste 4301, 43F, JTC Bldg, 919/501 Silom Rd, +66 2-234-6365(-6), [46].

- Korea DPR, 14 Muban Suan Laem Thong Soi 2 (Soi 28), +66 2-319-2989.

- Republic of Korea, 23 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd, +66 2-247-7537(-41).

- Kuwait, 17F, Sathorn Thani Bldg ll, 92/48 Sathorn Nuea Rd, +66 2-354-222(-3), [47].

- Laos, 502/1-3 Soi Saha Karn Pramoon, +66 2-539-6667(-8), [48].

- Lebanon, 15F, CTI Tower, 191/67 Ratchadaphisek Rd, +66 2-261-1013.

- Luxembourg, 17F, Q House Lumpini Bldg, 1 Sathorn Tai Rd, +66 2-677-7360.

- Malaysia, 35 Sathorn Tai Rd, +66 2-629-6800, [49].

- Malta (Consulate), 485/14 Silom Rd, +66 2-235-9423(-4).

- Mexico, 20F, Thai Wah Tower, 21/60-62 Sathorn Tai Rd, +66 2-285-0995, [50].

- Mongolia, 100/3 Ekkamai Soi 22, +66 2-381-1400.

- Morocco, 12F, Sathorn City Tower, 175 Sathorn Tai Rd, +66 2-679-5604(-6).

- Myanmar, 132 Sathorn Nuea Rd, +66 2-233-2237.

- Nepal, 189 Sukhumvit Soi 71, +66 2-391-7240, [51].

- Netherlands, 15 Soi Ton Son, +66 2-309-5200, [52].

- New Zealand, 14F, M Thai Tower, All Seasons Place, 87 Witthayu Rd, +66 2-254-2530, [53].

- Nigeria, 412 Sukhumvit Soi 71, +66 1-711-3076(-8).

- Norway, 18F, UBC II Bldg, 591 Sukhumvit Soi 33.

- Oman, 7F, 134/1-2 Silom Rd, +66 2-236-7385.

- Pakistan, 31 Sukhumvit Soi 3, +66 2-253-0288(-9),.

- Panama, 16F, Lumpini Tower Bldg, 1168/37 Rama IV Rd, +66 2-679-7988(-9).

- Peru, 16th Floor, Glas Haus Bldg, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 25, +66 2-260-6243.

- Philippines, 760 Sukhumvit Rd, +66 2-259-0139(-40), [54].

- Poland, 8 Sukhumvit Soi 5, +66 2-258-4112(-3).

- Portugal, 26 Captain Bush Ln, Charoen Krung Rd, +66 2-234-0372.

- Romania, 20/1 Soi Ratchakru, Phahonyothin Soi 5, +66 2-617-1551.

- Russia, 78 Sap Rd, +66 2-234-9824, [55].

- Saudi Arabia, 23-24F, Saeng Thong Thani Bldg, 82 Sathorn Nuea Rd, +66 2-639-2999.

- Singapore, 129 Sathorn Tai Rd, +66 2-286-2111.

- Slovakia, Pantip Ct, 68 Sathorn Tai Rd, +66 2-285-0220(-2).

- South Africa, Floor 12A, M-Thai Tower, All Seasons Place, 87 Witthayu Rd, +66 2-659-2900, [56].

- Spain, Floor 23, Ste 98-99, Lake Rajada Office Complex, 193 Ratchadaphisek Rd, +66 2-661-8284.

- Sri Lanka, 13F, Ocean Tower 2, 75/6-7 Sukhumvit Soi 19, +66 2-261-1934(-5).

- Sweden, 20F, One Pacific Place, 140 Sukhumvit Rd, +66 2-263-7200, [57].

- Switzerland, 35 Witthayu Rd, +66 2-253-0156(-60).

- Taiwan, 10F, Kian Gwan Bldg, Witthayu Rd, +66 2-251-9274(-6).

- Turkey, 61/1 Soi Chat San, Sutthisan Rd, +66 2-274-7262(-3).

- United Kingdom, 14 Witthayu Rd, +66 2-305-8333, [58].

- United States of America, 95 Witthayu Rd, +66 2-205-4049, [59].

- Uzbekistan (Consulate), 32 Moo 5, Sukhumvit 62 Soi 1, +66 2-741-7247, [60].

- Vietnam, 83/1 Witthayu Rd, +66 2-251-5836(-8), [61].

- 217/1 Yannawa Sathorn, +66 22125853-4,+66 22125162 ), [62].

Get out

Central Plains

If you want to get out of the city for a while, there are plenty of day trip options from Bangkok.

- Amphawa — interesting floating market popular with the locals

- Ayutthaya — ancient capital showcasing its many ruins, 1.5 hours away by bus or train

- Bang Pa-In — its magnificent Summer Palace makes for a pleasant day trip

- Damnoen Saduak — picture-perfect floating market on tourist steroids

- Hua Hin — beach resort town popular with Thais and Scandinavians

- Kanchanaburi — the famous Bridge over the River Kwai and some good national parks. Day trips to the famous bridge and nearby Erawan National Park are commonly sold.

- Ko Kret — rustic little pottery island to the north of Bangkok, a pleasant day trip out of the concrete jungle

- Nakhon Pathom — Thailand's oldest city and site of the world's largest stupa

- Samut Prakan — mostly visited for the Ancient City open air museum

Further destinations

Bangkok is also an excellent hub for onward travel into other regions of Thailand.

- Chiang Mai — the gateway to the North and the heart of Lanna culture

- Ko Chang — large relatively unspoiled tropical island

- Ko Samet — the closest Thai beach island with white sand beaches

- Krabi Province — beach, rock-climbing and water sports mecca, includes Ao Nang, Rai Leh, Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta

- Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) — main city in the Isaan region

- Pattaya — closest seaside resort with naughty nightlife

- Phuket — the original Thai paradise island, now very developed but still with some beautiful beaches remaining

- Khao Yai National Park — stunning mountainous scenery and some of Thailand's fledgling vineyards

- Sukhothai — the ruins of the ancient Sukhothai Kingdom

- Surat Thani — home of the former Srivijaya Empire, gateway to Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao

District Siam Square Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By public transit

By boat

By bus

• See

• Do

• Buy

Siam Square

Ratchaprasong

Phloen Chit

• Eat

Food courts

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

Coffee

Bars

Nightclubs

• Sleep

Budget

Soi Kasemsan 1

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

• Cope

• Get out

Understand
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While Rattanakosin represents Thailand's history and culture, Siam Square represents Thailand as a newly industrializing economy. Siam Square's first buildings were only constructed in the 1970s, on land of Chulalongkorn University which tried to get some extra rental income for the university. It started with ordinary shops, but has since expanded to a shopping and entertainment mecca that has everything upper-class teenagers and college students could possibly want — luxury shopping malls and glitzy department stores filled with designer labels and hip fashion boutiques.

Despite the name, it is not a square in the traditional sense. It could better be described as a warren of small sois filled with hundreds of tiny boutiques, restaurants, cafes, record stores and bookshops, mostly catering to upper-class 20-something Thais, shopping-spree Malaysians, and working ex-pats. If you're not up for a trip to the Gap or a pink martini, it's still worth a visit just to see the Bangkok-of-the-future. The area north of Rama I Road does feature some kind of courtyard on the second floor, which functions as the entry point for the Siam Center, Siam Discovery Center and Siam Paragon shopping malls.

Going east on Rama I Road, the shopping experience continues at Ratchaprasong, an area that received worldwide fame when red shirt-wearing political protesters set up their camp here in May 2010. It is home to CentralWorld Plaza, the largest shopping mall in Thailand, which was set on fire during these protests, though it was restored within a few months. It gets more quiet as Rama I Road changes its name into Phloen Chit Road in the east. There are some shops and restaurants here, but the area is mostly home to foreign embassies and airline offices.

Get in
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By public transit
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Siam Square is the most central neighborhood of Bangkok and can be reached by both the Sukhumvit Line and the Silom Line of the BTS Skytrain system. The easiest entry point is Siam station, right on top of Siam Square and in the middle of the entire Siam area. It acts as the exchange station between both lines, so expect a lot of commuters during rush hour. The Sukhumvit Line continues east and passes Chit Lom station, which is close to Ratchaprasong, and Phloen Chit which serves the road of the same name. One stop west of Siam on the Silom Line is National Stadium, a handy stop that's close to MBK, Jim Thompson's House and the cheap guesthouses at Soi Kasemsan 1.

The Sukhumvit Line and the Silom Line provide direct connections with the districts of the same name. There is also a direct connection with Phahonyotin and the Chatuchak Weekend Market if you take the Sukhimvit Line to the north. If you're coming from Rattanakosin or Khao San Road, you'll first need to take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Sathorn (Taksin) pier. From there, continue your way along the Silom Line to Siam station. The whole ride takes around 40 minutes (but is easier than trying to find the right bus!)

By boat
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If you're staying at Khao San Road, the Saen Saep Express Boat is your best bet to get to Siam Square. It is only a short walk to the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin, where you can get on the boat. The service operates every day from 5:30AM to 8:30PM. The Golden Mount Line brings you to Sapan Hua Chang pier for Siam Square, and terminates at Pratunam pier (for Ratchaprasong intersection). You can switch to the NIDA Line at Pratunam pier, which brings you to Chitlom, Wireless and on to Sukhumvit and Ramkhamhaeng. A single trip from Panfa Leelard pier at the Golden Mount to Sapan Hua Chang takes about 25 minutes and costs around 9 baht.

By bus
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Siam Square is among the most congested districts of Bangkok. Combine that with the complexity of the bus system, and it's obvious that you're better off using other ways of transport. However, if you're coming from or going to the Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin, the bus is the only way to get a direct connection. Bus 15 starts at Phra Athit Road and then drives over Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road), Lan Luang Road, Chakkaphatdi Phong Road and Bamrung Muang Road before arriving at MBK Center, Siam Square and Ratchaprasong intersection. This bus then continues to Silom Road, so take it in the other direction if you're coming from there.

An alternative is bus 47, which starts at Rama IV Road in Khlong Toey and then heads to Silom and over Phaya Thai Road. Get off at MBK Center. You can also take this bus from Tha Chang in Rattanakosin (near the Grand Palace) from which it goes through Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road), Lan Luang Road, Chakkaphatdi Phong Road and Bamrung Muang Road. Get out at MBK Center as this bus won't continue its way further along Siam Square.

If you're coming from Suvarnabhumi International Airport, the quickest way is to take bus AE3 (signed as going to Sukhumvit). It costs 150 baht and runs along the Bang Na-Trat Expressway and Sukhumvit Road to Phloen Chit Road and Ratchaprasong intersection. It then loops around and heads back out to the airport. You can also take bus 552, which goes to Skytrain station On Nut in Sukhumvit. From there, you can continue your way with the Skytrain. It's a long ride though, and depending on traffic it could take between 1 to 2 hours.

See
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- Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแห่งกรุงเทพมหานคร), 939 Rama I Rd (BTS National Stadium), +66-2-214-6630(-8), [1]. Tu-Su 10AM-10PM, M closed. Interactive museums are the new hype in the artistic community of Bangkok, thus we have another one. Visitors can interact with different kinds of arts, such as performance arts, music, painting and film, in various ways. On display are more than 300 works by Thai and international artists. Some of the temporary exhibitions can be good as well. Free.

- Erawan Shrine (ศาลพระพรหม Saan Phra Phrom), 494 Ratchadamri Rd (BTS Chit Lom, in front of the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel at Ratchaprasong intersection), +66-2-254-1234, [2]. 6AM-midnight daily. A Hindu shrine that houses a statue of Phra Phrom, the Thai representation of the Hindu creation god Brahma. Free.

- Jim Thompson's House (พิพิธภัณฑ์จิม ทอมป์สัน), 6 Soi Kasemsan 2 (BTS National Stadium), +66-2-216-7368, [3]. 9AM-5PM daily. The infamous CIA operative Jim Thompson revived the Thai silk industry after World War II and had this house assembled from six traditional Thai-style houses. You must take the guided tour through the buildings, which are given in plenty of foreign languages. Get there early to beat the heat. 100 baht.

- Madame Tussaud's (พิพิธภัณฑ์หุ่นขี้ผึ้งมาดามทุสโซ), 6F, Siam Discovery Center, 989 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-658-0060, [4]. 10AM-10PM daily. Everyone knows Madame Tussaud's, the popular museum displaying waxworks of famous people. The Bangkok branch features life-sized statues of HRH Prince Mahitala Thibed Adulyadej Vikrom Phra Baroma Rajajanok (The Prince Father), HRH Princess Srinagarindra (The Princess Mother) and other important Thai individuals. But there are also plenty of Western figures, including Barack Obama in the oval office and the English football player Steven Gerrard. Foreigners have to comply with a hefty 900 baht price tag, while Thais chip in for 350 baht. 900 baht.

- Queen Savang Vadhana Museum, Sra Pathum Palace, 195 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Siam; entrance is near Siam Paragon), +66-2-252-1965(-7), [5]. F-Sa 10AM-4PM, Su-Th closed. The Sra Pathum Palace is an oasis of silence right behind Siam Paragon. It has been the permanent residence of HM Queen Savang Vadhana from 1916 till 1955, and HRH Princess Sri Nagarindra has also lived here. When HRH Princess Sri Nagarindra passed away, it became the residence of HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. She turned one building into a museum that honors the Queen Grandmother and shows her contributions to Thai society. The museum starts in the exhibition hall, that shows HM Queen Savang Vadhana's biography, and then moves to her residence, the Phra Tamnak Yai building. Make a reservation in advance and request an English-speaking guide (at no extra cost). 150 baht.

- Siam Ocean World (สยามโอเชี่ยนเวิลด์), 1-2F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-687-2000, [6]. 9AM-10PM daily. The largest aquarium in Southeast Asia, exhibiting over 30,000 marine animals from all over the world and featuring a wide range of rare and exotic species. The area of the aquarium spans over 10,000 square meters, as wide as two football fields. The aquarium also offers a "dive with the sharks" program where you can scuba dive in the oceanarium side by side with sharks and rays, plus a "Sanyo 4D Xventure" with specially rigged seats to add a kick to the typical 3D movie experience. 900 baht.

- Wat Pathum Wanaram (วัดปทุมวนาราม), Rama I Rd (BTS Siam, between Siam Paragon and CentralWorld Plaza). 7AM-6PM daily. Right between Siam Paragon and CentralWorld Plaza in the middle of consumerism, this temple is often overlooked. While it is not as remarkable as the temples found in Rattanakosin, it does remind us of the spiritual history of Thailand. Wat Pathum was founded in 1857 by King Mongkut (Rama IV) when the area was surrounded by canals and rice fields. It was built to function as a place of worship close to the Sra Pathum Palace. At the temple is the Phra Meru Mas, a reconstruction of the crematorium of the Princess Mother, whose remains were transferred here after her cremation at Sanam Luang. During the May 2010 red shirt protests, this temple functioned as a safe haven for protesting women and children. Free.

Do
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- APEX, Siam Square Soi 1, +66-2-252-6498, [7]. 10AM-11PM daily. The theaters of APEX were built in the late 1960s and have changed little ever since; going to the movies here is a kind of retro experience not found in other cinemas. It is widely known for its more offbeat and art house films. It is spread over two theaters: Lido Theatre has three screens, usually with Japanese, Korean and other foreign films on show, while Scala Theatre only has one screen with first-run Hollywood movies. Unfortunately, the late 1960s Siam Theatre has been destroyed in fires that resulted from the 2010 red shirt demonstrations. It is rumored to be replaced with a new shopping complex. 100 baht.

- Center Point Massage, 2F, 266/3 Siam Square Soi 3 (BTS Siam, exit 2, then walk into Soi 3, turn left at the Costume shop, walk on and turn left again at Siam Fruit), +66-2-658-4597, [8]. 10AM-midnight daily. Worth seeking out as they do nice, reasonably priced Thai, herbal, oil and foot massages, as well as aromatherapy. They also have branches in Silom and Sukhumvit. 300-950 baht/hour.

- I.Sawan Residential Spa & Club, Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, 494 Ratchadamri Rd (BTS Ratchadamri), +66-2-254-6310, [9]. The luxury you'd expect at a five-star hotel, at five-star prices. Most of their treatments take at least 3 hours, but are famed as among the best of Thailand. 2200 baht/hour.

- Krungsri IMAX Theatre, 5F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-129-4631, [10]. 10AM-midnight daily. Going to the movies here is a great night out. You get a few hours in a plush theatre house, complete with air-con, assigned seats and the newest technology (including IMAX and 3D glasses). All the new Hollywood releases are featured nightly, but you can also pick most Thai movies as they have English subtitles (but inquire at the desk first if this is the case). Don't forget the mandatory standing ovation to the King before the movie starts. 160 baht.

- Paragon Cineplex, 5F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-129-4635, [11]. 10AM-midnight daily. With about 4000 seats and 25 screens, this has got to be one of the largest cinemas in Asia. The complex includes three separately branded cinemas. The Siam Pavalai is a 1200-seat theater, the largest of the bunch and often even home to concerts. The six "Ultra Screen" cinemas are much more luxury with reclining seats. Last but not least, Enigma is a members-only cinema with lounge seats. 140 baht.

- Royal Bangkok Sports Club (ราชกรีฑาสโมสร), 1 Henri Dunant Rd, +66-2-255-4158, [12]. Every two weeks on Sunday 12:30PM-6PM. This is a venue for horse races under royal patronage. Races are held every two weeks on Sunday. 50-100 baht.

Buy
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Tax-free shopping

It is a bit of a hassle, but if you want to save some bahts, you can claim back the VAT you paid for while buying large purchases. While buying a product, ask the sales assistant to fill in the VAT Refund Form (P.P10) and add the original tax invoice. The total value of the goods claimed for refund must exceed 5000 baht with each individual product worth at least 2000 baht. The goods must be taken out of Thailand by plane within 60 days. At the airport, and this is where most visitors go wrong, your goods must be checked at the Customs Office before check-in and passport control. You will get a receipt, which you have to show at the VAT Refund Office after passport control. If the refund amount is lower than 30,000 baht, you'll be paid in cash, otherwise you'll receive the money at your bank account or credit card. For more information, contact the Revenue Department (90 Phahonyothin Soi 7, +66-0-2272-9384(-5) [13]).

Siam Square
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Siam Square is the place to shop in Bangkok, especially if you're looking for luxury shopping malls and top department stores. The obvious point of entry is Siam station, surrounded by to Siam Center, Siam Discovery Center and Siam Paragon. Technically not a part of the Siam area, but at walking distance, is the MBK Center (MahBoonKrong). With the exception of Siam Paragon, these malls are somewhat dated, but among the most popular as they are the most affordable. At least make a head for MBK, to see where the local youth does their shopping.

- Bonanza Mall, Phaya Thai Rd (BTS National Stadium). 10AM-10PM daily. Across the street from MBK Center and connected by walkway on the second floor is the perennially crowded Bonanza Mall. Its warren of stalls offers more of the same as MBK, thus it is popular among students and teenagers looking for hip clothes, accessories and cosmetics.

- MBK Center (MahBoonKrong), 444 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS National Stadium), +66-2-620-9000, [14]. 10AM-10PM daily. MBK is a vast and always packed mall full of tiny stalls (2500 of them, to be exact) selling, well, everything. There's a heavy emphasis on clothing, especially the cheap and trendy teen type, but the fourth floor devoted to electronics is Bangkok's best place to buy a mobile phone, MP3 player, digital camera and much much more. Other stuffs on sale are gold, furniture, food, and a part of the sixth floor has been dedicated to handicrafts and souvenirs. Don't miss the dried fruits and Chinese-style snacks (like pork floss) at Champ on the fourth floor, near the central escalator. The top floor has movie theatres and restaurants, and there's a large Tokyu department store bolted on the north side. It is possible to bargain for cheaper prices on some items at some independent shop stalls, especially if you are with a Thai friend or family member.

- Siam Center, Siam Tower, Rama I Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-687-5000, [15]. 9AM-9PM daily. Constructed in 1976, this four-story mall is the first of the Siam area. It might feel a little dated compared to Siam Paragon, but it must be said that an extensive renovation in 1995 made the mall feel colorful, hip and modern. Most of the stores focus on fashion, shoes and handbags for trendy teenagers and students. There's also a good range of eating options, including a food court at the fourth floor. A bridge at the fourth floor connects the shopping complex with the Siam Discovery Mall.

- Siam Discovery Center, Rama I Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-345-2345(-9), [16]. 10AM-9PM daily. Siam Discovery Center is a newer, more upmarket addition to Siam Center, catering to a slightly more mature audience. Just like its twin mall, most stores are for the fashion savvy, but prices are somewhat higher. This is the only mall in Thailand that offers the official Diesel designer store at the ground floor. Worth a browse is Loft on the third floor, a large and quirky Japanese home decoration store. They have, among many other things, an array of bizarre plush toys on offer. The sixth floor has an EGV Grand Cinema.

- Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-610-8000, [17]. 10AM-10PM daily. This is an incredibly massive shopping mall with no less than ten floors. You can almost spend a full day here, as it is not just a shopping complex, but also includes Siam Ocean World, Paragon Cineplex and plenty of dining facilities. Paragon is one of the most upmarket malls in Asia, so expect the usual designer brands (Louis Vuitton, Gucci, etc), but also BMW and Porsche showing off their newest models. The fourth floor has a very good (if pricey) selection of modern Thai arts and crafts, as well as the large Kinokuniya bookstore. Great eating options in the basement, including a gourmet supermarket, two food courts and a canal-lined strip of fancy restaurants.

- Tokyu Department Store, MBK Center, 444 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS National Stadium), +66-2-620-1000, [18]. 10AM-9PM daily. Not a mall, but a massive department store that occupies four floors! Every thing you'd expect in a department store is available, including clothes, luggage, shoes, cosmetics, stationery, household appliances and even a supermarket. There's also a great selection of utensils for cooking Thai, Japanese, and Western food.

Ratchaprasong
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Heading east is Ratchaprasong, an intersection filled with very luxury upmarket malls. CentralWorld Plaza, while built in 2002, was expanded in 2006 topping its nearby rival Siam Paragon as the largest shopping complex in Thailand (and the third largest in the world). Surrounding CentralWorld are the Gaysorn Plaza, Isetan, Narai Phand, Peninsula Plaza, Zen, among others, all of which together make the largest shopping promenade in Bangkok. Bring a well-filled wallet though.

- Amarin Plaza, 496-502 Phloen Chit Rd (BTS Chit Lom), +66-2-256-9111, [19]. 9AM-9PM daily. This impressive colonial-style mall has five floors of high-end stores, selling fashion, furniture, jewelry, electronics, books and handicrafts. The fourth floor has a good food court, and even a spa, health center and yoga studio.

- Central Chidlom, 1027 Phloen Chit Rd (BTS Chit Lom), +66-2-793-7777, [20]. 10AM-10PM daily. This is the flagship store of the Central chain of department stores, and thus it is much more luxury and prices are higher. Catering to affluent Thais and Western expats, it has good selections of pricey watches, cosmetics and clothes. There are also numerous eating options.

- CentralWorld Plaza (formerly the World Trade Center), 999/9 Rama I Rd (BTS Chit Lom, at corner of Rama I Rd and Ratchadamri Rd), +66-2-635-1111, [21]. 10AM-10PM daily. Formerly the World Trade Center, this enormous complex reopened in 2006 after a massive expansion and renovation, and is now the only mall in Bangkok that can give the Paragon a run for the money in both swank and size. It is the third largest mall in the world by leasable floor space, and the second largest building in the world if you include the skyscraper on top of it. It's marketed as a middle-class shopping mall with prices cheaper than Siam Paragon. Most Thais still can't afford it though, so you'll only see the occasional tourist wandering around. Lots of restaurants make this a good destination for lunch or dinner. The top floor has a supermarket and a multiplex. The large Isetan and Zen department stores are also included in the complex, as well as two book stores and plenty of photo and electronic stores. Note: CentralWorld is closed for the time being due to heavy protest fires in May 2010, but will be reopened at September 28, 2010.

- Erawan Bangkok, 494 Phloen Chit Rd (BTS Chit Lom, between the Erawan Shrine and the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel), +66-2-250-7777, [22]. 10AM-10PM daily. Linked by skybridges with the Amarin Plaza and Gaysorn Plaza, this is another luxury boutique mall. Chic clothes stores are distributed at all four levels. The second level has an excellent tea room. Go to the lower lobby if you're hungry, or to the fourth floor for wellness and pampering.

- Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd (BTS Chit Lom, at the corner of Phloen Chit Rd and Ratchadamri Rd), +66-2-656-1149, [23]. 10AM-8PM daily. Gaysorn Plaza positions itself as Bangkok's premier luxury shopping mall: this is where you can get your fill of Armani, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Tiffany. The top floors have a good selection of antiques and Thai handicrafts of high quality, but at fairly high prices too. Most Thais cannot afford these prices, so the visitors mostly consist of Japanese and Arab business men.

- Isetan, CentralWorld Plaza, 4/1- 4/2 Ratchadamri Rd (BTS Chit Lom), +66-2-255-9898, [24]. 10AM-9PM daily. An institution in Japan, Isetan's Bangkok branch is just as upper class as those found in the motherland. While obviously catering to Japanese visitors, there is also a wide availability of international brands, such as Louis Vuitton. Kinokuniya is one of the better book stores, and don't forget to buy a bottle of sake down the supermarket. There's also a Lego section for kids.

- Narai Phand (นารายณ์ภัณฑ์, also known as Narayana Phand), President Tower Arcade, 973 Phloen Chit Rd (BTS Chit Lom, next to Intercontinental Hotel), +66-2-656-0398(-9), [25]. 10AM-9PM daily. A Thai handicraft center partly run by the government offering a wide array of traditional crafts, such as bronze objects, ceramics, lacquerware, silk and woodcarvings. Prices are fairly high and not negotiable, but clearly marked, so this is a good place to see what's on offer and find out baseline prices before hitting the markets. Narai Phand used to be on Ratchadamri Road, but this flagship store was unceremoniously demolished in 2008. Now it has relocated to a smaller location next to the Intercontinental Hotel.

- Peninsula Plaza, 153 Ratchadamri Rd (BTS Ratchadamri, between Grand Hyatt Erawan and The Regent), +66-2-539-6723. 10AM-9PM daily. Yep, another exclusive shopping center that caters for moneyed Thais, rich expats and business travelers. The whole exterior has a kind of European old-world feeling. On sale are gems, diamonds, silverware, fabrics, antiques and art. The fourth floor is home to the International Dance Academy.

- ZEN Department Store, CentralWorld Plaza, 4 Ratchadamri Rd (BTS Chit Lom), +66-2-100-9999, [26]. 10AM-10PM daily. ZEN is the coolest, funkiest and hippest lifestyle department store of Bangkok. It is catering to affluent customers who care about design and don't mind to pay extra for it. The shop looks catchy, colorful and well-designed. Each of its six levels evolved around a different theme and product category, such as cosmetics, fashion and sports wear. Note that ZEN has been closed until further notice due to red-shirt protests in May 2010.

Phloen Chit
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- All Seasons Place (All Seasons Retail Center), 87 Witthayu Rd (Wireless Rd) (BTS Phloen Chit), +66-2-654-3888, [27]. 9AM-6PM daily. Another elegant and massive shopping center that boasts four floors of the usual clothing boutiques, department stores, jewelries and antique shops. While expensive, it is slightly off the map, thus at the end of the season prices tend to drop more than at the other shopping malls. Another cheap bet is the food court at the second floor.

- The Promenade (ศูนย์การค้านายเลิศ, sometimes known as Nai Lert Plaza), 11F, Nai Lert Tower, 2/4 Witthayu Rd (BTS Phloen Chit), +66-2-267-8850(-7). 9AM-7PM daily. The Promenade is one of many shopping areas in Bangkok where you can buy just about everything from clothing to handicrafts. It is a three-story shopping mall with a modern and luxury decor. The second floor has a walkway to Swissotel Nai Lert Park Hotel.

Eat
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:

Budget

Under 100 baht

Mid-range

100-500 baht

Splurge

Over 500 baht

For Thai food with a twist, the hip district of Siam Square is the best place to go hunting. The shopping malls generally have a wide choice of chain stores where you can eat for mid-range prices. If you're on a budget, every mall that takes itself seriously at least has one food court. Soi Ton Son, a sidestreet of Phloen Chit Road, is known as Bangkok's Little Italy with plenty of nice Italian restaurants. The best are both very good and reasonably priced (at least by Western standards).

Food courts
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If you want cheap food and air-conditioning, head into the upper-floor food court of any mall or department store. Food courts come in many varieties, from basic snack places to eclectic cuisine. Most food courts use some variation of a coupon system; unused coupons are always refunded. Some of the better ones include:

- Big C Food Court, 5F, Big C, 97/11 Ratchadamri Rd (opposite CentralWorld Plaza), +66-2-250-4888, [28]. 9AM-11PM daily. New, bright, airy and very cheap with mostly Thai dishes as low as 20 baht. Payment with a stored-value card. Note: Big C is closed for the time being due to heavy protest fires in May 2010. 50 baht.

- Central Food Hall, 1F, Central Chidlom, 1027 Phloen Chit Rd (BTS Chit Lom, hidden behind the TOPS Supermarket in the same building as FoodLoft), +66-2-655-7648(-52), [29]. 9AM-10PM daily. It offers Thai fare (and English menus) at much cheaper prices than FoodLoft. 50 baht.

- FoodLoft, 7F, Central Chidlom, 1027 Phloen Chit Rd (BTS Chit Lom), +66-2-793-7070, [30]. 10AM-10PM daily. This chic dining venue with a hip and trendy black, metallic and red colour theme is large and popular among Central's visitors. This is one of the most upmarket food courts, and could even be described as a culinary experience on its own: eight cooking islands represent quality restaurants that serve different cuisines, including Thai, Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Italian, Malay and Vietnamese (desert is also represented by one island). It is fairly expensive with most dishes close to 100 baht. Dinnertime at Fridays and Saturdays have live music. You receive a 1000 baht voucher on entry and pay for what you've used on exiting. 150 baht.

- MBK Food Court, 5-6F, MBK Center, 444 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS National Stadium), +66-2-620-9000, [31]. 10AM-10PM daily. You might not expect it, but this is a really good find! Food court "The Fifth", as you might expect, is at the fifth floor, and has recently been refurbished. It has a couple of "cuisine islands" each featuring an assortment of food from a different country, including Indian, Indonesian, Italian, Japanese, Mexican and Thai food. Western, Asian, halal and vegetarian dishes from 50 baht up. Paying goes by an electronic card system, and you pay as you leave. The food court at the sixth floor is very cheap with less than 50 baht per serving. It is popular, but noisy, and serves tasty Thai food including some you have probably never heard of before. Paying goes by coupon. 50 baht.

- Siam Paragon Food Court, 1F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-610-8000, [32]. 10AM-10PM daily. This food court covers a large part of Siam Paragon's ground floor. It is divided in three sections, a general food court (pay by coupon), a more upmarket food court (pay by electronic card) and a take away counter. The whole place is enormous with many different joints selling different kinds of food, such as Isaan, Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese and international. 50-100 baht.

Budget
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- Hong Kong Noodle, 430/3-4 Siam Square Soi 3 (BTS Siam, near the corner of Soi 2 and Soi 3), +66-2-254-8755 (hknd_thailand@hotmail.com). 10AM-10PM daily. Serves up cheap and tasty wonton noodles, a selection of dim sum and more Cantonese favorites in modern, if utilitarian, surroundings complete with air-conditioning and table service. 30-40 baht.

- Ka-nom, 266/8 Siam Square Soi 3 (BTS Siam), +66-2-508-7366, [33]. 10AM-9PM daily. Everyone who has been to Macau knows how delicious they are: Portuguese-style egg tarts. They don't come very cheap, but are hand-baked right in front of you. They also have cakes, pies, breads and croissants. 40 baht each.

- Pisces, 36/6 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium, in the middle of the street at the left). 8AM-1PM, 5PM-10:30PM daily. This simple Thai (and vegetarian) restaurant is popular for breakfast among backpackers who stay at the nearby guest houses. Its interior looks good and is colorful, and the lady who runs it is really nice. Service can be a tad slow though. 60 baht.

Mid-range
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- Greyhound Cafe, 4F, Central Chidlom, 1027 Phloen Chit Rd (BTS Chit Lom), +66-2-225-6964(-5), [34]. 10AM-10PM daily. An minimalistic restaurant of concrete and brushed steel. On the menu is fusion, with food ranging from authentic Thai to Italian pasta to Elvis burgers. Mains are usually around 300 baht, although the lunch sets are cheaper than that. There's also a branch at Siam Center. 300 baht.

- Kabuki, 1F, Siam Paragon, 99/1 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-129-4351(-6), [35]. 11AM-10PM daily. This Japanese restaurant chain, inspired by Japanese Kabuki theater themes, was the first of its kind in Bangkok. It is more upmarket than its sister Uta-Andon, but still very affordable if compared with luxury Japanese restaurants. 450 baht.

- La Monita Taqueria, Mahatun Plaza, 888/26 Phloen Chit Rd (BTS Phloen Chit), +66-2-650-9581, [36]. M-Sa 11:30AM-10PM, Su closed. This is one of the best Mexican restaurants in Bangkok, especially since Tacos and Salsa closed down. There salsas are delicious, as are the chips. Just one big advice: be very sure to make a reservation beforehand as the place is very small and the tables are often booked. Also the tables and seats are small, so expect it to feel cramped; though it does help the cozy atmosphere. 150 baht.

- No. 43 Italian Bistro, 43 Soi Lang Suan (BTS Chit Lom, at Cape House), +66-2-658-7444. A lovely Italian bistro that serves an a la carte breakfast, lunch and dinner. With quiet white wood floors, black and gold walls, and an illuminated open bar, the items are pleasantly affordable considering the restaurant's elegant ambiance. Quiet, reserved and gentle on the senses, this restaurant also offers great Thai food on request. 150-300 baht.

- Som Tam Nua (Som Tam Paradise or Papaya Salad Restaurant), 392/14 Siam Square Soi 5 (BTS Siam), +66-2-251-4880. 11AM-9PM daily. If Thai food isn't spicy enough or you have yet to sample som tam (raw papaya salad), check out this trendy yet very friendly and very Thai restaurant specializing in northeastern Isaan food. For the full-on Isaan experience, order raw mango salad (ตำมะม่วง tam ma-muang), spicy pork salad (ลาบหมู laap muu), grilled chicken (ไก่ย่าง kai yang) and sticky rice (ข้าวเหนียว khao niaw) - which will cost less than 200 baht per head. English menu, two floors of seating. Warning: This is real Isaan food and thus very spicy! 200 baht.

- Sunrise Tacos, 1F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd (before supermarket entrance near counter 7), +66 2-229-4851, [37]. Open 24 hours. A Mexican grill restaurant with traditional favorites like nachos, tacos, burritos, enchiladas, fajitas and salads. The meals are fresh and there is 24 hour delivery available. 200 baht.

- Uta-Andon, 6F, Isetan, 4/1-4/2 Ratchadamri Rd (BTS Chit Lom), +66-2-255-9800, [38]. 11AM-9PM daily. Same ownership as Kabuki, this Japanese restaurant chain has a branch in Isetan. Ambience and decoration are plain and straightforward.

- Wanara Eatery, 81 Ruam Ruedi Soi 2 (BTS Ploen Chit), +66-2-695-4242, [39]. In Thai, 'wana' means forest, the source of the distinctive ingredients that make up traditional Thai cooking. Combined with western flavors, Wanara brings together the fusion cuisine.

Splurge
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- Gianni, 34/1 Soi Ton Son (BTS Chit Lom, off Phloen Chit), +66-2-252-1619, [40]. noon-2:30PM, 6PM-10:30PM daily. One of Bangkok's best and most authentic Italian places. Formal but romantic atmosphere with shared couches and such, you'll want to dress up a little. Try the lunch sets at 270/320 baht, as dinners are considerably more expensive. 1000-1200 baht.

Drink
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Coffee
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Branches of Starbucks and the more local Black Canyon Coffee can be found in all the malls and even at the largest BTS stations.

- Kaldi, 4F, MBK Center, 444 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS National Stadium), +66-2-626-0407 (info@kaldi.co.th), [41]. 10AM-10PM daily. This popular Japanese coffee chain has a branch at MBK, and is an excellent way to refresh after all the shopping. They have the usual coffee, tea, smoothies, juices and soft drinks, as well as small snacks. The best part is that they have a WiFi hotspot, so you can check your mail while sipping a hot cappuccino. 50 baht.

Bars
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Siam Square is not that well-known for its nightlife, as shops tend to close about 10PM and the area gets pretty silent afterwards. Most visitors head off to Sukhumvit or Silom, but Siam Square does have some relaxing bars on offer.

In the winter time (recursively defined in Thailand as "beer garden season"), popular beer gardens pop up in front of CentralWorld Plaza, serving up cold beer, hot food and loud Thai pop.

- Brown Sugar, 231/19-20 Sarasin Rd (BTS Ratchadamri), +66-2-250-1826. M-F 11AM-2PM, 5PM-1AM, Sa-Su 5PM-1AM. This place is known as one of Bangkok's better live jazz bars. The food and drinks are passable, but the people come here for the atmosphere, which is lively and relaxed. The interior is really chic, but expect to pay for it. Be careful to check the bill as the waiters are known to mess around with it.

- Hard Rock Cafe, 424/3-6 Siam Square Soi 11 (BTS Siam), +66-2-251-0797, [42]. M-Sa 9AM-7PM. Everyone knows the Hard Rock Cafe, and this is just like the other ones around the globe: rock 'n' roll music all night long, the typical Hard Rock Cafe merchandise and live bands every night. But this is the only one that has a beautiful tuktuk coming out of the exterior.

Nightclubs
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There are a couple of after hours clubs in Rong Muang Soi 1, in the backstreets of Siam Square (access via Rong Muang Soi 5, off Rama I Road):

- Spicy, Rong Muang Soi 1 (at the intersection of Rong Muang Soi 1 and 5). 1AM-6AM daily. A typical (sleazy and grim) "after-hour" club that gets busy after 2AM and stays open till the early morning. There is a variety of music playing, depending on the DJ, including house and hiphop. Expect a mixed crowd including badly dressed older western men on the prowl, young (mostly male) tourists, prostitutes and katoey. Taxis get commissions, so most know about it and you might get a free ride. If you're still up for more partying after 6AM, continue the night at Swing next-door. As of May 2011, it is closed for renovations, but it is expected to reopen after the Thai general elections on July 5, 2011. 300 baht including one drink. (13.743846,100.521898)

- Swing, Rong Muang Soi 1 (at the intersection of Rong Muang Soi 1 and 5). Day club, free entry. Opens at 5AM, and even with Spicy currently closed it still gets quite crowded. Enter through a restaurant, go out the back past the bathrooms and take the lift to the second floor. Along with a bar and dance floor playing loud house music, there's a quieter area with several pool tables. Similar crowd to Spicy. Free entry, drinks 200 baht. (13.743846,100.521898)

Sleep
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:

Budget

Under 1000 baht

Mid-range

1000 baht to 2500 baht

Splurge

Over 2500 baht

Accommodation in almost all price ranges can be found within this area. Hotels in the Hualamphong Train Station area are covered in Yaowarat and Phahurat.

Budget
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Soi Kasemsan 1
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Just at the foot of the National Stadium station, directly across from the stadium itself, is Soi Kasemsan 1, a convenient and quiet lane filled with budget hotels. Most of the guest houses are along the left side of the street as you walk in from Rama I Road. The soi is close to Siam Square, and Jim Thompson's House is only one block away.

- A-One Inn, 25/13 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium, on the right side of the street if coming from Rama I Rd), +66-2-215-3029, [43]. A decent guest house that is quite popular among backpackers that can afford a little more. A-One has a luggage room and WiFi access for anyone toting their laptop (24 hours of access costs 100 baht for guests and 150 baht for walk-ins). The rooms are functional, if less than inspiring. 600-700 baht.

- Muangphol Mansion, 931/9 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium), +66-2-219-4445, [44]. This guest house faces onto Rama I Road, but you have to enter from Soi Kasemsan 1. The ground floor has Internet terminals and a restaurant that is open 24 hours. 800-1100 baht.

- Reno Hotel, 40 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium), +66-2-215-0026-(7). A clean, remodeled hotel that has breakfast included. There is a nice pool in the nothing-fancy patio area. The rooms on the front are dark and a bit noisy. Rooms by the back or pool are very pleasant. The friendly staff provide laundry, checked luggage, and a travel desk. 780-1100 baht.

- The Bed & Breakfast, 36/42-43 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium), +66-2-215-2493. Probably one of the cleanest budget hotels in this area, though obviously don't expect much else from the rooms. It is run by a family that handles their customers friendly and professional. As the name suggests you get a daily breakfast, but don't be surprised when you get the same meal every morning. 800 baht.

- Wendy House, 36/2 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium, far into the soi at the left side), +66-2-214-1149, [45]. This hotel is very popular and seems to fill up quickly. International phones, phone cards and Internet are available in the lobby. The PCs are configured for English, Swedish, and Japanese. Breakfast is included. 900-1200 baht.

- White Lodge, 36/8 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium), +66-2-216-8867. Probably one of the cheapest guest houses in the soi, this one is truly for backpackers who just need a cheap room and no frills. It is clean though, and the rooms are fairly large in size. Also the staff is welcoming. 400 baht.

Mid-range
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- Bangkok City Inn, 43/5 Phetchaburi Soi 30 (Pratunam pier or BTS Chit Lom, east of Ratchadamri Rd, in the backstreets near the CentralWorld Plaza), +66-2-253-5373, [46]. A decent two-star hotel with air-conditioning, 24 hour reception and cable TV, but it lacks any internet service. The rooms are a little small and kind of dusty with old furniture. Also, some rooms barely have any view as the rooms face to a large building wall beside it. But the best is its location near Ratchaprasong. Breakfast is included. 1000-1350 baht.

- Patumwan House, 22 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium, the high-rise to your left as you reach the bend in the road), +66-2-612-3580(-99), [47]. This is mainly a residential apartment building with some studios or one-bedrooms for rent. There is a security card entry and elevator. It is definitely not a backpacker place. Beware as they will not let you test their WiFi before you put a deposit down. 1000-1200 baht.

- Sawasdee Langsuan Inn, 93/4 Lang Suan Soi 5 (BTS Chit Lom), +66-2-650-4727, [48]. This branch of the Sawasdee chain of hotels is located down Lang Suan Road, and is within walking distance of many embassies (such as Cambodia, Japan, Netherlands, New Zealand, South Africa, Spain, UK, US and Vietnam). Rooms have air-conditioning, private bathroom and TV. Hotel facilities include free internet and WiFi, luggage storage, a safe, a restaurant and a roof-top garden. 1300-1500 baht.

Splurge
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- Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd (BTS Chit Lom, behind the Erawan Shrine), +66-2-254-1234, [49]. A five-star hotel at five-star prices. If you are visiting the Erawan Shrine on the corner, you could take a look at the hotel. The lobby is very impressive. Spassos, a popular upscale lounge bar is located in the lower level. If there's more than one person per room, it is worth the extra 1000 baht per night for the "club room" as you end up with a better concierge and free breakfast. 7600-23,000 baht.

- Holiday Inn, 971 Phloen Chit Rd (BTS Chit Lom), +66-2-656-1555, [50]. Opened in May 2005, this hotel in contemporary Thai style is amazingly swanky for a Holiday Inn and the location is very central. It has a small but sufficient gym and pool. 3730-6700 baht.

- InterContinental Hotel, 973 Phloen Chit Rd (BTS Chit Lom), +66-2-656-0444, [51]. The lobby of this hotel is among the most extravagant in Bangkok. Very central location and all the facilities you'd expect at a hotel of this magnitude. 5440-9600 baht.

- Tenface, 81 Ruam Ruedi Soi 2 (BTS Ploen Chit, then a hike through Ruam Ruedi Rd and Ruam Ruedi Soi 2), +66-2-695-4242, [52]. A boutique hotel and serviced residence in Bangkok. The high-designed concept of Tenface is inspired by the 10-faced giant of the greatest epic Ramayana. 14,500 baht.

Contact
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- True Urban Park, 3F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam), +66 2-610-8888. 10AM-10PM daily. Built by communication conglomerate TRUE at a cost of US$1 million, this is not just an internet cafe, but a hip "lifestyle experience" that is also a flower shop and bookstore. It is complete with funky chairs, iPod listening stations and sonic bubbles hanging over your head, and a live DJ is playing. Try the iced cafe mocha. 50 baht/hour.

- UCC Cafe City 21, 1F, Siam Center, 989 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-658-1716, [53]. 9AM-9PM daily. Easily accessible at the ground floor of the Siam Center, this trendy and open cafe has free internet terminals available. On the menu are different varieties of coffee (including Japanese coffee) and deserts. Free.

Cope
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- Bangkok International Dental Center (BIDC), 205/2-3 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Siam, exit 4), +66-658-4774, [54]. M-Sa 10AM-8PM, Su 10AM-5PM.

Get out
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- Pratunam is 600 meters north of Ratchaprasong intersection with plenty of shopping centers, malls and markets.

- The shopping spree also continues east, when Phloen Chit Road changes its name into Sukhumvit Road.

District Sukhumvit Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By public transit

Skytrain

Metro

By boat

By bus

• See

Museums

Parks

• Do

• Learn

• Buy

Markets

Malls and department stores

Stores

• Eat

Food courts

Budget

Street food

Restaurants

Mid-range

Fusion

Thai

Southeast Asian

Japanese

Indian

Middle Eastern

European

American and Tex-Mex

Australian

Splurge

Fusion

Thai

Indian

Japanese

European

Supermarkets

• Drink

Go-go bars

Sports bars

Beer gardens

Wine bars

Nightclubs

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

• Cope

• Get out

Understand
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Sukhumvit Road is not only one of the longest roads in Thailand, but one of the longest roads in the world. Towards the west end it changes name to Phloen Chit Road and Rama I Road as it enters the Siam Square area, but to the east it runs most of the way to the Cambodian border. The sois are numbered from west to east, with odd numbers north and even numbers south of Sukhumvit Road. The sois on the north and south sides of Sukhumvit don't line up; for example, Soi 33 is opposite Soi 24. Confusing is that these sois also have names of their own (for example, Soi 55 is better known as Soi Thong Lo) and these sois can also have sois of their own (such as Thong Lo Soi 1).

Looking at the high-rise apartment buildings, the Skytrain and the perennial traffic jam on Sukhumvit Road, it is hard to believe that this area used to consist of rice fields until World War II. After the war, this area became developed with large contemporary villas catering to the upper class. As property values kept rising, developers have been buying more and more land and cashed them in by constructing big apartment high-rises. The construction of the BTS Skytrain in 1999, covering most of Sukhumvit Road, has increased the popularity of this district even more.

The lowered-numbered sois (roughly between Soi 1 and 63) are a popular residential area for western expatriates and affluent Thais. It is densely packed with shopping centers, restaurants and hotels. The fleshpots of Nana Entertainment Plaza (in Soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (between Soi 21 and 23) are also in this area, as are plenty of more (and less) salubrious bars. Also, the pavements of Sukhumvit itself has become a huge market carrying everything from luggage to fake Rolex watches, and after midnight they turn into pavement cafes and bars. Sukhumvit offers the best dining in Bangkok, from five-star dining to street stands, the variety of choices and tastes are almost overwhelming. Japanese nationals can be found in the area Soi 21 and upwards, but most tend to congregate around Soi 55. Indians have settled around Soi 12, while Arabs are grouped at Soi 3/1, which informally is known as Soi Arab. After Soi 63, Thais take over again, though this might change when the Skytrain extension is completed in late 2011.

South of Sukhumvit's sois lies Khlong Toey, which, if recognized at all, foreigners only know for the Khlong Toey Market. Khlong Toey is a borough, a market and a port, all named after the canal that flows through the area. It means "canal of pandan" as that plant used to grow along the southern bank of the canal. A large part of it was filled up to make way for Rama IV Road in 1947. South (and under) the Chalerm Maha Nakhon Expressway are the infamous Khlong Toey slums, generally unexplored by even the most adventurous travelers. At the banks of the Chao Phraya river is the Khlong Toey Port, which has a history dating back to the ninth century, when it connected Bangkok with the cities upstream the river. Since 1981, it has lost most of its economic relevance when the larger Laem Chabang Port near Pattaya took over business.

Get in
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By public transit
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Skytrain
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The BTS Sukhumvit Line runs, as the name suggests, entirely over Sukhumvit Road from west to east. Sukhumvit can directly be reached by Skytrain if you're coming from Siam Square or Phahonyothin. A ride from Mo Chit takes about 25 minutes to reach Asok station, while a ride from Siam station takes about 10 minutes. If you're coming from Silom, you'll need to take the Silom Line north and change onto the Sukhumvit Line at Siam station. It takes about 20 minutes for a ride from Saphan Taksin station to reach Asok station, including the transfer at Siam. Trains leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about 15 to 40 baht.

The following BTS stations are currently present in Sukhumvit (from west to east): Nana, Asok, Phrom Phong, Thong Lo, Ekkamai, Phra Khanong and On Nut. Each station serves the neighborhood of the same name. Asok is the most convenient station as it is in the center of Sukhumvit and has a direct transfer with Bangkok's MRT metro system. In the following years, the Sukhumvit Line will extend even further south connecting other residential areas in the south of the city.

Metro
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If you're coming from Silom or Ratchadaphisek, you can directly reach Sukhumvit by Bangkok's MRT metro system. The most convenient station is Sukhumvit, which is right in the middle of the district and with a possible transfer onto the BTS Sukhumvit Line. The other stations in the district are Khlong Toei and QSNCC. The metro ride from Silom takes about ten minutes, while the ride from Ratchadaphisek takes about 15 minutes. Trains leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about 15 to 40 baht.

By boat
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The Saen Saep Express Boat service is a rough, but entertaining way of getting in and around Sukhumvit. The Saen Saeb canal forms the northern boundary of Sukhumvit's sois and is a cheap alternative means of escaping the traffic jams if you're coming from Khao San Road, the eastern side of Rattanakosin or Ramkhamhaeng.

There are two lines: The Golden Mount Line runs from Panfa Leelard near the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin east to Pratunam near Ratchaprasong intersection. The NIDA Line runs from Pratunam all the way northeast along Ramkhamhaeng Road to Wat Sriboonreung. A single trip from Panfa Leelard to Nana Nua takes about 35 minutes and costs 13 baht. You must switch boats at Pratunam. Other stops along Sukhumvit's northern sois (from west to east) are Nana Chard, Asoke-Petchaburi, Prasanmit, Italthai, Wat Mai Chonglom, Baan Don Mosque, Soi Thonglor, Charn Issara and Vijit School.

If you're coming from the Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin, there are two ways to get into Sukhumvit. The fastest way is to take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Sathorn (Taksin) pier in Silom. From there, continue your way north using the BTS Skytrain Silom Line. You'll need to switch trains at Siam BTS station and continue your way east onto the Sukhumvit Line. The whole ride from Rattanakosin takes about 40 minutes. You can also choose to take the 30-minutes walk (or a five minutes taxi ride) to Panfa Leelard pier and continue your journey using the Saen Saep Express Boat.

By bus
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This first tip on bus travel is one to remember: do not do it! Sukhumvit Road is probably the most congested road of Bangkok and traffic jams exist the whole day till late in the evening. Also, it is really hard to find out which bus goes where or where to get out. Better take the Skytrain, metro or express boat, even if it costs a little more.

If you insist, there are a gazillion bus lines going through the Sukhumvit area. The most important one is ordinary and air-conditioned bus 25, which starts far southeast of Sukhumvit Road. From there, it goes all the way northwest along Sukhumvit Road and then rides over Ratchadamri Road and Rama IV Road to Silom. It then continues its way to Hualamphong Train Station, through either Charoen Krung Road or Yaowarat Road (depending on direction) and finally on to Tha Chang in Rattanakosin (for the Grand Palace).

From the new Suvarnabhumi Airport, you can take bus AE3 for 150 baht to Sukhumvit. It runs up the Bang Na-Trat Expressway and along Sukhumvit all the way up to Siam Square. It then loops back around to Nana and then back out to the airport. Another option is bus 552, which heads on to On Nut, where you can continue your way with the Skytrain. There are many stops and depending on traffic the ride can take from 1 to 2 hours.

See
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Museums
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- Kamthieng House Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือนคำเที่ยง Ban Kamthieng), 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke Rd) (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit, then a five-minutes walk north), +66-2-661-6470‎, [1]. Tu-Sa 9AM-5PM. Ban Kamthieng is a 19th-century ancient Thai stilted teak house where you definitely wouldn't expect it: right in the middle of Bangkok's high-rises. It was transported from Chiang Mai in pieces and assembled in Bangkok in 1964 to function as the headquarters of the Siam Society, an organization that has the goal of preserving the cultural heritage of Thailand. Beside the house itself, on display are traditional tools, arts and crafts used by Lanna farmers and fishermen from northern Thailand in olden times, as well as a large selection of Thai flora in its yard. There is a heavy focus on the cultural heritage of northern Thailand, as that's where the house and most of the tools on display came from. The only downside of the museum is that it's quite small, so don't expect to spend here longer than 30 minutes (or even 15 minutes if you're quick). 100 baht.

- Museum of Buddhism Art (พิพิธภัณฑ์พุทธศิลปะ), 104 Phattanakan Soi 40, +66-2-321-0048(-50). M-Sa 10AM-5:30PM, Su closed. This museum features a large private collection of Buddha images and is operated by the Foundation of Thai Arts Preservation. The exhibition focuses on the art of Buddha images in accordance with Thai history. An international presentation comprising light, sound (chanting) and scent (incense) explains the information to the visitor in an air-conditioned room. Besides Buddha images and artefacts of different periods, there is also an area allocated to be a shrine and a museum dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy and other major gods of various beliefs in Asia. Make contact in advance if you want to visit. 250 baht.

- Museum of Thai Pharmacy (พิพิธภัณฑ์เภสัชกรรมไทย), 40 Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo, diagonally opposite Soi Thong Lo), +66-2-391-6243. M-F 10AM-4PM. The museum is on the third floor of the Pharmaceutical Association of Thailand under Royal Patronage Building. It was established to publicize about traditional Thai medicine from past to present, so that later generations would learn and treasure it. The exhibition features various topics, such as the birth of pharmacy, the evolution of oriental pharmacy and basic wisdom, the evolution of western Thai pharmacy and the evolution of herbs and natural products. Make contact in advance if you are visiting with a group. Free.

- Science Centre for Education (ศูนย์วิทยาศาสตร์เพื่อการศึกษา (ท้องฟ้าจำลอง)), 928 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Ekkamai, the museum is next to the Eastern Bus Terminal), +66-2-392-5951(-5), [2]. Tu-Su 8:30AM-4:30PM, M and hols closed. This is an exhibition centre about the variety of scientific knowledge. Among the attractions are a planetarium, an aquarium as well as a permanent exhibition on sports science, communication technology and natural environments. One-hour shows at the planetarium start at 11AM and at 2:30PM with additional shows on Saturdays and Sundays at 10AM and 1:30PM. 20-40 baht.

- Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC), 6F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-664-8448, [3]. Tu-Su 10:30AM-9PM, M, hols closed. There couldn't have been a better place for this design gallery, at the the Emporium, the most fashionable shopping mall of Bangkok. The TCDC, as abbreviation-loving Bangkokians call it, seeks to show and promote Thailand's design innovations. There is a permanent exhibition about the question what design actually is, and how it is influenced by factors like society, history, politics, economics, geography and religion. There is also a temporary exhibition that often changes. If you want to enter the resource center and the library, you can get a free one-day pass. You can only do this once and you must carry your passport with you. Spend the day reading amazing design books, or just using the internet. If you want to visit the resource center and library again later, you'll need to pay for a subscription. Free.

Parks
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- Benchasiri Park (สวนเบญจศิริ), Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong, between Soi 22 and Soi 24, next to The Emporium shopping mall). 5AM-8PM daily. This compact park was built to commemorate the 60th birthday of HM Queen Sirikit in 1992. It features a huge sculpture of a commemorative coin illustrating an image of HM Queen Sirikit and 12 pieces of contemporary sculptures including children's works. Free.

- Benjakiti Park, Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre). 5AM-8PM daily. When the Tobacco Company moved all its factory operations to Chiang Rai in 2008, a large swathe of free space came free in the center of Bangkok. It has been turned into a brand new public park that surrounds a big lake in front of the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre. It is a neat park with children playing in the lake at hot summer days. Another part of the former factory compound will turn into a man-made rainforest in the future. Free.

- Ozono, 307 Sukhumvit Soi 39 (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-259-3788, [4]. Tu-Su 10AM-9PM, M closed. Luxury in Sukhumvit is not just for those on two legs. Ozono is a so-called "lifestyle complex" where Bangkok's pet owners can bring their pets as buddies and spoil them in an equal manner. There are pet hotels, pet stores, pet spas, pet restaurants and a landscaped pet park. The pets are treated as humans, so they can sit at the table in a restaurant along with their owners. If you don't have a pet, you can just look at the quirkiness of it all, or check out the pets at one the pet hotels. You might think it's just overdone luxury, but demand is high among Bangkok's pet owners, as pets are forbidden in all of Bangkok's public parks.

- Suan Luang Rama IX Park (สวนหลวง ร. 9), Sukhumvit Soi 103 (about 7 km deep inside Sukhumvit Soi 103 (Soi Udomsuk)), +66-2-328-1395. 5AM-7PM daily. Built in 1987 to celebrate the 60th birthday of the present HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej, this is the largest public park of Bangkok. It consists of six zones: the Homage to His Majesty, the Botanical Garden, the Trapangkaew Resevoir, the Rommaniya Garden, the Sanam Rasdara and the Water Garden. It is very very deep down the sois of Sukhumvit, so its best to stop over a taxi to find it. 10 baht.

Do
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Focus on yourself and get pampered at one of the many massage establishments around Sukhumvit. Some of the better ones include:

- Happy Feet, Sukhumvit Soi 7 (BTS Nana, behind The Park Hotel), +66-2-650-3517. 10AM-11PM daily. This massage parlor offers excellent traditional Thai massage, oil massage, aromatherapy, foot massage and nail care. 300 baht/hour.

- Praiphana, Thong Lo Soi 7 and 9 (BTS Thong Lo), +66-2-392-6518. 10AM-11PM daily. Another massage parlor, this one offers a traditional Thai massage, oil massage and aromatherapy, manicures and pedicures. For 15 baht, you can get a 15-minute neck and shoulder massage. 300 baht/hour.

- Hatthai Massage, Sukhumvit Rd (near exit 1 of BTS Thong Lo, close to the 7-Eleven). A traditional two-hour Thai massage is given upstairs, where patrons are separated by curtains, which are often opened up so masseuses can chit chat. A 90-minutes reflexology foot massage is done at ground level, opposite a large television; try not to doze off. It is popular with Japanese businessmen staying at the nearby Grand Tower Inn. 300 baht/2 hours.

For a more upmarket experience, head for a spa.

- Leyana Day Spa and Garden, Soi To Sak, 33 Thong Lo Soi 13 (BTS Thong Lo, walk into Soi Thong Lo, take a left into Thong Lo Soi 13, then a right into Soi Torsak), +66-2-874-4461, [5]. M-F 11AM-10PM, Sa-Su 10AM-10PM. This spa is specialized in half-day packages designed for couples. Getting there is quite a hike, but you can get a free transfer from the BTS station if you request this beforehand. 5500 baht/3 hours.

- Center Point Massage, Sukhumvit Road Soi 24. Offers excellent traditional massage in a soothing environment.

- Bliss Massage & Spa, Sukhumvit Road Soi 33. Offers traditional Thai massage, head and foot massage along with a "fish spa" - wherein you immerse your feet in a tank of water and little fish nibble away at the dead skin.

Learn
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If you are one of the more sporty types who like to keep active on your vacation, the national sport of Muay Thai or Thai Boxing is a great way to stay in shape.

Other learning activities include cooking and meditating.

- Chacrit Muay Thai School, Washington Square, Sukhumvit Soi 22 (BTS Phrom Phong, enter Washington Square either from Sukhumvit Rd or from Soi 22), +66-8-9499-2052, [6]. M-Sa 8AM-8PM. Accredited Muay Thai school teaching Muay Thai to novices and professionals. Academic visas can be arranged for long term foreign students. 500-5500 baht. (13°43'55.57N,100°33'59.77E)

- Face Cooking School, 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo), +66-2-713-6048, [7]. M-Sa 8:45AM-1PM, 1:15PM-4:30 PM, Su closed. Face Bangkok is some of the most impressive dining venues in the city, and being able to learn cooking here is a good option. They have three different restaurants offering Thai, Indian and Japanese food, and thus the cooking school offers classes in these cuisines. 2500 baht.

- World Fellowship of Buddhists, 2F, 616 Benchasiri Park, Soi Methi Niwet (BTS Phrom Phong, off Soi Sukhumvit 24), +66-2-661-1284(-90), [8]. First Sunday of the month 2PM-5:30PM. Offers meditation classes in English every afternoon on the first Sunday of every month. The office also provides information on places to learn and practice meditation in Thailand. Classes and information are free of charge. Free.

Buy
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As Sukhumvit is one of Bangkok's main thoroughfares, the long road is lined with shops, boutiques and modern shopping plazas ranging from Soi 3 (Soi Nana Nuea) up to Soi 63 (Soi Ekkamai). Most shops and restaurants are concentrated between Soi 3 and Soi 21 (Asoke Rd) and along shortcuts between Asoke and Ekkamai.

Markets
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Shopping in Sukhumvit starts on the street. The pavement is cramped with endless roadside stalls that offer many of the same items as the Patpong Night Market, such as souvenirs, accessories, knock-off clothes, pornographic DVDs, pirated movies and other junk. Prices are somewhat better than in Patpong though. The stalls are open most of the day, and only seem to close late in the evening. The stores are at the main thoroughfare from Soi 1 till Soi 20. The part between Nana and Asok stations is particularly a hard walk, as many pedestrians queue up at the stalls to take a look. Haggling is generally expected, but it'll only save you a few more baht.

- Khlong Toey Market, Rama IV Rd (south of MRT Queen Sirikit National Convention Center at the corner of Rama IV Rd and Ratchadaphisek Rd). Open 24 hours. Huge and surprisingly central, this market is definitely off the tourist trail. The stalls sell goods for Thais, at Thai prices. It is basically a food market with meat, seafood and farm products on sale, accompanied by the usual second hand clothes stalls. It is always open, but best experienced in the early hours of the evening.

Malls and department stores
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If you're looking for more upscale shopping, there are plenty of malls and department stores throughout Sukhumvit Road. The best one for fashion is Emporium, but for the rest you're better off taking the Skytrain to Siam Square. At Thong Lo, all things are cool, be it clothes, gadgets or interior design. It could be called the "Siam Square of Sukhumvit" with its hip fashion boutiques, trendy designer stores and overall swanky appearance.

- Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-269-1000, [9]. 10AM-10PM daily. This upmarket mall, with selections of everything in design, including watches, cosmetics and clothes, is the top competitor to Ratchaprasong's Gaysorn Plaza. The lower floors are dedicated to brands like Louis Vuitton and Rolex, but (unlike Gaysorn) it has more affordably priced goods on the upper levels. Emporium also has a popular food court and a good selection of restaurants on the fifth floor. Kinokunyia book store has a large selection of English language books, including travel-related ones. The top floor is home to one of the nicest cinemas in the city after Siam Paragon (and somewhat less pricey than that one) and the Thailand Creative and Design Center.

- J Avenue, 323/1 Thong Lo Soi 15 (BTS Thong Lo). Opened in 2004, this four-story upscale "lifestyle mall" that is typical for the swanky Thong Lo neighborhood. It is an open-air mall with giant rain trees inside. Its modern architecture and hip designer shops are catering to Thong Lo's Japanese crowd (that's what the J stands for).

- K-Village, 93-95 Sukhumvit Soi 26 (BTS Phrom Phong, then about a 30-minutes walk down Soi 26, so you might want to take a taxi), +66-2-258-9919(-21), [10]. 10AM-10PM daily. The so-called "lifestyle malls" are the new hype in Bangkok, and the newest one is K-Village, which has been in town since 2009. Touted as a "neighborhood lifestyle mall", apparently this should be a small village where you can meet and know people. In practice, it's just another upscale mall with supermarkets, restaurants, cafes, spas and (of course) a lot of fashion stores.

- Nana Square, 49 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana, at the intersection of Sukhumvit Road and Soi 3), +66-2-253-0192(-4), [11]. 10:30AM-10:30PM daily. Quite a generic shopping mall, but at a convenient location. It has everything you would expect from a typical Bangkokian mall, including a food court, Starbucks, Watsons and dry cleaner.

- Ploenchit Center, 2 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phloen Chit, then a short walk through the expressway tunnel), +66-2-656-8600(-4). This is a small, but decent, shopping center along the west side of Sukhumvit Road. Although the name suggests otherwise, it is not on Ploenchit Road! The ground floor has the typical chain stores (Starbucks, McDonald's, Boots), as well as lower-prices clothes outlets, jewelry shops and a supermarket. There's a food court at the sixth floor. Tourists don't make it out this far, so most of the visitors are local office workers from the surrounding buildings.

- Robinson, 259 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit, at the Sukhumvit Rd and Soi 19 intersection), +66-2-651-1533‎, [12]. 10AM-10PM daily.

- Thonglor Midtown (formerly Playground!), Thong Lo Soi 18 (BTS Thong Lo, then a 15-20 minutes walk, or hop on the songthaew for 6 baht), +66-2-715-9408, [13]. 11AM-9PM daily. Formerly the quirky uberhip Playground! department store, now a hip mini-mall with IT, modern design and home accessory stores, plus Vanilla Restaurant, Shiki Japanese cuisine and a Starbucks.

Stores
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If you know where to go, Sukhumvit offers some of the best stores in bespoke tailoring. Never go to custom tailor shops that get your suits and shirts ready in 24 hours or less. If you want quality, go to a reliable tailor which will ask for two to five sittings, and the whole process will take about a week. For more information on bespoke tailoring, see the Silom article.

- Crown Tailor, 13 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana, just inside Soi 8), +66-2-253-5541, [14]. M-Sa 10AM-8PM. Highly regarded as one of the best places to get a suit among Sukhumvit Road. It is definitely worth the visit for quality material at an affordable price.

- Elite Book House (ร้านหนังสือเอลิด), 593/5 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong, exit 5; between Soi 33 and 35), +66-2-258-0221, [15]. 10AM-8PM daily. If you don't have time to go to Khao San Road, Elite Book House is a worthy (or better) alternative for buying second hand English-language books. They have all the usual genres, including fiction, non-fiction and travel guides, and all for decent prices. They also have smaller quantities of books in Japanese, Thai, Chinese, French, German and Swedish.

- Jhasper Fashion, 155/32 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana, exit 3; walk 50 meters into Sukhumvit Soi 11), +66-2-651-2522, [16]. M-Sa 10AM-8PM. Good tailoring store for men's and women's suits, pants, shirts, dresses and more.

- New Landmark Boutique (at the corner with Sukhumvit Soi 4), 102 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana, walk down south side of Sukhumvit, 10 meters before Soi 4), +66-2-656-8190, [17]. Mo-Sa 11AM-10.30PM, Su 2.30PM-8PM. One of the favorite tailors of major European flight crews. The owner also comes to Europe about once a year for orders. Very good advice, high quality and fair prices. Go and check his references. Across Sukhumvit there is also a Landmark Tailor which has nothing to do with him.

- Sombat Permpoon Gallery, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1 (BTS Phloen Chit, then take the expressway tunnel and take a left into Soi 1), +66-2-254-6040, [18]. 9AM-8PM daily. This gallery at Soi 1 sells both paintings and sculptures by established artists and those of the new generation. There are more than 10,000 art works by Thai artists on sale.

- Tailor On Ten, 11/1 Sukhumvit Soi 10 (BTS Nana, exit 4; walk 150 meters down Sukhumvit Soi 10, just before the Ramada Encore Hotel), +66-8-0143-9447, [19]. M-Sa 10AM-7PM. This is a solid, quality tailor who produces beautiful suits, shirts and more. Their prices are competitive and they carry a wide range of fabrics.

Eat
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:

Budget

Under 100 baht

Mid-range

100-500 baht

Splurge

Over 500 baht

There is a huge selection of places to eat in and around Sukhumvit and its side sois, although prices tend to be on the high side by Thai standards. With practically every cuisine in the world represented, this is the place to break your pad thai diet and sample some of the best Japanese, Lebanese or Indian food you will ever eat.

Finding your way around the mindblowing variety in Sukhumvit might feel a bit daunting at first. One way to approach the area is to visit its ethnic food neighborhoods. Sukhumvit's Little Japan is located near Sukhumvit Soi 33 and across the street at Soi 24, with Phrom Phong BTS station straddling the two. There is also a smaller concentration along Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lo), notably the Nihonmura ("Japan Village") in Thong Lo Soi 13. (The other major outpost of Nippon is Soi Thaniya in Silom. Korean restaurants can be found scattered throughout town, but a particularly heavy concentration lurks in Korea Town, the informal name of Sukhumvit Soi 12's Sukhumvit Plaza (a short walk from Asok BTS station). These are extremely authentic though and you may have a little trouble ordering if not familiar with Korean food. Soi 3 and Soi 3/1, a short walk from Nana BTS station, are known as Soi Arab for the heavy concentration of Middle Eastern businesses in the area; in some spots you will see more signs in Arabic than in Thai! Thanks to a demanding clientele and heavy competition, the food here is some of the best this side of Lebanon.

Fusion restaurants are centered around the H1 complex on Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lo). Thai food with a modern twist has become particularly popular the last years (another place to go hunting for fusionis the hip district of Siam Square).

Food courts
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While not as much an institution as in Siam Square, the food courts in any mall or department store are a good option if you're trying to survive Sukhumvit on budget and want air-conditioning. Just like in Siam Square, food courts come in many varieties, from basic snack places to more upscale dining. Most food courts use some variation of a coupon system; unused coupons are always refunded.

- Emporium Food Court, 5F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-269-1000, [20]. 10AM-10PM daily. A very upscale happening (and crowd), this place challenges the idea of food courts as being simple places to have a snack after shopping. Park Food Hall serves an extensive three-course meal with wine in a dimly-lit atmosphere.You can also go to the regular food court, which is comparatively small and hidden behind the other restaurants, but cheap and often packed. At peak hours it's difficult to get a seat if you're alone. The prices have been increasing over the past year. 100-2000 baht.

- Ploenchit Center Food Court, 6F, Ploenchit Center, 2 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phloen Chit, then a short walk through the expressway tunnel), +66-2-656-8600(-4). The top floor of the Ploenchit Center is one of the cheaper food courts along Sukhumvit Road, but with a good selection of Thai dishes. It is mostly popular among the local office workers, many secretaries in outfit have lunch here. It works with a coupon system. 50-100 baht.

- Robinson Food Court, BF, Robinson, 159 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit, at the Sukhumvit Rd and Soi 19 intersection), +66-2-252-5121, [21]. 10AM-10PM daily. While still a decent food court, it is a bit more expensive than the others, and you might need to order twice get full. It is in the heart of Sukhumvit though, so a good way to get a cheap menu without having to dine at expensive restaurants. 100 baht.

Budget
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Street food
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While an expensive district, there are some cheapie sois with excellent street food if you know where to go:

- Between Soi 1 and Soi 3 (BTS Nana) is a set of street food stalls with the best one furthest from the street. It is called Oowan Im (literally 'fatty is full'), but is sign-posted in English with just the word "Seafood" on an otherwise Thai sign. Seafood is their specialty — good things to order include the "crispy fish in chili sauce", tom yum soup and any of their Thai salads (such as mixed seafood salad). The Chinese-style fried vegetables are also delicious.

- Soi 7 (BTS Nana) is an alternative for seafood. About 30 meters down the soi on the right hand side is a group of Thai seafood restaurants. The sitting area looks shared, but actually only the tables in front of the food stalls belong to that restaurant. So in case you liked the food, remember the name of 'your' restaurant. Mains go out for about 150 baht, while a cold beer sets you back for 65 baht.

- Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo), opposite Soi 55, gives you some of the best street food in Bangkok. Not a restaurant in itself, just sit at a table and order whatever you like from the numerous foodstalls (they'll figure out the bill for you). You can find the most delicious mango and sticky rice (khao niow ma muang) in town. Evenings only.

Restaurants
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Budget restaurants are generally hard to find, but the following are favorites under Bangkok's large expat population:

- Ramen Ichiban, 3/7-9 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-258-6314. An authentically Japanese greasy-spoon noodle joint specializing in ramen soup. For less than 100 baht, the large bowl is a good value. 80-150 baht.

- Took Lae Dee, Foodland Supermarket, 87 Sukhumvit Soi 5 (BTS Nana), +66-2-254-2367, [22]. Open 24 hours. Took Lae Dae is a Bangkok institution. Imagine a long bar counter, only with chefs and food instead of bartenders and drinks, and a colorful cast of characters thanks to Nana Plaza across the street. The name literally means cheap and good and indeed basic fried rice starts at 40 baht, but the cheap Western dishes, many less than 100 baht, are what makes this place popular. The American breakfast (two eggs, ham, bacon or sausage, juice, toast, coffee) in particular is a steal at 47 baht between 6AM-9AM, or 58 baht at any other time. 50-100 baht.

Mid-range
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Fusion
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- Be your Guest' Cafe, 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 (BTS Thong Lo, exit 1, turn right in Soi 53), +66-8-1637-9047, [23]. 11AM-6PM daily. Delicious diverse cooking experience with dishes from all around the world. Soup, salad, sandwich, mains, as well as a selection of typical French, Thai and fusion food are served. The cafe also provides a large choice of food for take away and delivery. The Villa is also a three-bedroom guest house in a relaxing tropical garden with private pool. 300 baht.

- Greyhound Cafe, 2F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-255-6964(-5), [24]. 10AM-10PM daily. An extremely modern restaurant of concrete and brushed steel, offering a fusionesque menu of food ranging from authentic Thai to Italian pasta to Elvis burgers. Mains are around 300 baht, although the lunch sets are cheaper than that. There's also a branch at J-Avenue (Thong Lo Soi 15). 300 baht.

- Minibar Royale, Citadines Bldg, 37/7 Sukhumvit Soi 23 (BTS Thong Lo), +66-2-261-5533, [25]. Su-Th 11AM-midnight, F-Sa 11AM-1AM. If you're looking for a hip New York or Paris-style brasserie, this is definitely the place. The French decor is very classy done, and service is okay. On the menu are a mix of French and American comfort food. Drink it down with one of their cocktails and you'll have a fun night out. Also a trip for breakfast. Prices are at the upper mid-range end though. 450 baht.

- Thyme Bistro & Martini Bar, 1F, Kingston Suites Bldg, 39/3-7 Sukhumvit Soi 15 (BTS Asok), +66-2-120-8288, [26]. 6:30AM-11PM daily. A brand new restaurant located in Kingston Suites Bangkok, its dishes could be described as "fusion", as it offers local, international and some popular Mediterranean dishes. The asparagus rolls are a must-have and if you are there in the evening, have one of their Martinis. 300-400 baht.

Thai
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- Ana's Garden, 67 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo, between Thong Lo Soi 1 and 3), +66-2-391-1762, [27]. 3PM-midnight daily. This is a lovely garden restaurant with palm trees and fountains. A nice Thai dinner here doesn't have to cost you more than 200 baht. Hidden at the rear is the cool and cozy Groove Kitchen club with funky house music. Compared to the crowded clubs of Sukhumvit, this it is definitely a change of pace into a more relaxed jungle atmosphere. 150-250 baht.

- Cabbages and Condoms, 6 Sukhumvit Soi 12 (BTS Asok), +66-2-229-4610, [28]. 11AM-10PM daily. Run by Thailand's Population and Community Development Association, the odd name refers to the fact that the NGO promotes agricultural production as well as condom use; and no prizes for guessing what you'll get after dinner instead of an after-dinner mint. The food is competent but toned down for the foreign palate. A bit expensive for what you get but its for an excellent cause. 300 baht.

- Check Inn Garden (formerly Check Inn 99), 97 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana, tucked away between Soi 5 and 7, look for the white sign with black letters that direct you into a passageway), +66-2-252-6706. 5PM-1AM daily. Previous reviews said this place was straight out of a James Bond movie. However, it's closer to Rick's Cafe in Casablanca. Check Inn Garden (no longer 99) is an oasis amidst the chaos of the Nana area. Good Western and Thai menu, a friendly and attentive staff, and terrific entertainment every night courtesy of three delightful Philippine singers. At 8:45PM, the music starts and it turns a bit dark and seedy, but is still a decent place to relax. Happy hour is from 6PM till 8PM. 200 baht.

- Kinnaree, 43 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana, about 150 meters inside the soi on the left), +66-2-256-0328, [29]. 11:30AM-3PM, 6PM-midnight daily. Very nice Thai ambiance and decoration, great in the evening. Lounge bar and private rooms upstairs. The different sets of lunch menus are reasonably priced. The food is excellent and includes dishes hard to find elsewhere. Some dishes could be more spicy by Thai standards though. 200-400 baht.

- Lemongrass, 5/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (BTS Phrom Phong, opposite the Emporium), +66-2-258-8637. M-Su 6PM-10PM. This is a very good if slightly expat-oriented Thai restaurant. Located in an old tea house, the ambiance is very charming and eclectic. The pomelo salad and tom yam kung (ต้มยำกุ้ง) are both excellent. As is usual with popular expat places, the spicyness has been toned down somewhat. Also, the service can be a bit hasty. 350-450 baht.

- Ruen Mallika, 189 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (it is actually not on Soi 22, it is in a little street off Soi 22, take a right at the 7-11 when you are heading from Sukhumvit Rd towards Rama IV Rd and it is about 200-300m on your right), +66-2-663-3211, [30]. 11AM-11PM daily. A very good restaurant in an "antique" Thai house with a leafy outdoor section. The menu is a huge picture book which should help in ordering. The staff are very friendly and wear traditional Thai outfits to complete the ambiance. 450-650 baht.

Southeast Asian
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- Le Dalat, 47/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23 (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit, then walk north up Soi 23), +66-2-258-4192. 11AM-2:30PM, 6PM-10PM daily. Two Vietnamese restaurants, two locations about a block apart and across the street from each other. When it's a nice day outside, take a seat in the beautiful tropical garden which is wonderful. The traditional interior You can get lunch for about 250 baht, which is a good value. Service can be rough, be especially wary for the overcharge at the end. 450 baht.

- Xuan Mai, 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo, across the street from Mercedes-Benz Thong Lo), +66-2-185-2619, [31]. Tu-Th 11AM-2PM, 5PM-10PM, F-Su 11AM-2PM, 5PM-midnight, M closed. Excellent and varied Vietnamese menu, served by the owner, a charming lady who was a former Vietnamese beauty queen and FBI operative before moving to Bangkok to open a restaurant. It has an open kitchen, so you can see the cooking in action. 250-450 baht.

- Vientiane Kitchen, 8 Soi Napha Sap Yaek 1, Sukhumvit Soi 36 (BTS Thong Lo, at the corner of Soi 36 and Soi Napha Sap Yaek 1), +66-2-258-6171, [32]. noon-midnight daily. This relaxed-looking Lao restaurant serves very good Lao food. It has a nice ambiance featuring a band playing music from Laos. 150-300 baht.

Japanese
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- Akiyoshi, 2F, Taksin Square Bldg, 1521/1 Sukhumvit Rd (right beside BTS Phra Khanong), +66-2-714-0791. M-F 11AM-2PM, 5:30PM-10PM, Sa-Su 11AM-10PM. The two must-tries here are the Japanese-style sukiyaki and the shabu shabu. The employees will light up a burning pan on your table and you can just throw in the ingredients yourself. The food is really delicious, and they will serve until you're full. The ambiance is best-suited for a group of people. But better make a reservation if you 're coming after 6PM, as it's often packed. 400 baht.

- Fuji, 4F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-664-8580(-2), [33]. 10AM-10PM daily. This classy and modern Japanese restaurant chain can be found in the Emporium shopping mall. They have an extensive menu with all the Japanese dishes you're probably already familiar with, but they are delicious and service is quick. For 250 baht, you'll be completely stuffed. It's best to come in a group, so everyone can choose a different menu and you can mix and match. 250 baht.

- Grande Teppanyaki and Grande Ramen, 25/17-19 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo), +66-2-714-1020. Two small Japanese restaurants facing each other, popular with Thais and Japanese alike. Sub-100 baht lunch menus are particularly good value, but the beef curry with real steak is a deal at any time of the day. 130 baht, subs 80 baht.

- Nobu, 414 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo, between Thong Lo Soi 12 and 14), +66-2-392-5297, [34]. 11AM-2PM, 6PM-midnight daily. This is a nice local restaurant. They are very good for lunch with a large selection of Bento (boxed lunch) specials. Getting dinner here is a lot more expensive than lunch. It is focused on fresh seafood and dishes from the Osaka region of Japan. It's always crowded with Japanese expats that live in the area. They also have a branch at K-Village. 300 baht.

- Uta-Andon, 3F, Emporium Shopping Mall, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-664-8528, [35]. 11AM-9:30PM daily. Same ownership as Kabuki in Siam Square, Uta-Andon is a Japanese restaurant chain with one of its branches in the Emporium Shopping Mall. Ambiance and decoration are as you would expect, plain and straightforward, but it gets the job done. They have different sets you can choose, such as the lunch set, sushi set, sashimi set or oden set. 240-400 baht.

Indian
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- Akbar, 1/4 Sukhumvit Soi 3 (BTS Nana, then walk into Soi 3, the restaurant will be at the left side), +66-2-255-6935, [36]. 9AM-midnight daily. Being two decades old, this mid-sized Indian, Pakistani and Middle Eastern restaurant is one of the most established restaurants in Bangkok. It serves quality food for reasonable prices. Its location next to Soi Arab is ideal as you can compare with other restaurants in the area. Try the Akbari Chicken. 150-200 baht.

- Indian Host, 30 Soi Sukhumvit 22 (BTS Phrom Phong, next to Grande Mercure Hotel), +66-2-260-1115, [37]. 11:30AM-11:30PM daily. This restaurant has contemporary North Indian cuisine and Indo-Chinese fusion dishes. Its food is very authentic and much like you'd taste in India. The tender lamb Raan is their signature dish. 200-400 baht.

- Khana Khazana, 153 Sukhumvit Soi 11/1 (BTS Nana), +66-2-255-2289, [38]. 11AM-midnight daily. Pure Indian vegetarian restaurant with North Indian, South Indian and Gujarati food. 200-500 baht.

- Masala Art, Unit-L 205, 2F, Thonglor Eight Building, 88 Thong Lo Soi 8 (BTS Thong Lo), +66-2-713-8357, [39]. 11AM-3PM, 6PM-11PM daily. This is a luxury North Indian restaurant with its own philosophy. Masala is the Indian word for spice, and the "art of spices" means that there should be a natural balance of spices to get healthy, herbal and delicious food. This restaurant offers a fixed lunch and dinner special. It boasts a great decor, as well as authentic (and spicy) Indian food. Prices can be steep though, especially if you opt for a three-course meal. 220-450 baht.

- Mrs Balbir's, 155/1-2 Sukhumvit Soi 11/1 (BTS Nana, next to Business Inn Hotel), +66-2-651-0498, [40]. Tu-Su 11:30AM-11PM, M closed. Note that after 35 years of operation, the restaurant has moved to a new location only a few doors away. The curries are still some of the best in all of Bangkok, and a good value compared to other Indian restaurants along Sukhumvit. It has less than ten tables, but that just gives it a cozy and personal feeling. Try the chicken tikka, it's delicious. 250-400 baht.

- Namuskaar (Namuskar), 9 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana, walk down Soi 8 about 20 meters, then take the first dodgy side-street on the left), +66-2-255-1869 (tonyhora@hotmail.com). This restaurant is known among ex-pats as providing one of the closest approximations of British-style Indian food. It is definitely worth it to venture out here as the curries simply are delicious. It doesn't look super fancy or romantic, but it is clean, comparatively cheap and regular tourists don't know about this place. Try the chicken korma, or ask Tony, the owner, for advice. He can make anything you request. 200-250 baht.

Middle Eastern
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- Al Ferdoss, 1F, Schiller's Inn, 77/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1 (BTS Nana), +66-2-255-8200(-3). This Lebanese restaurant may have the ambiance of a motel lobby, which it pretty much is, but the food here is amazing. Dips and salads (hummus, tabbouleh, falafel, etc) 80 baht a pop, kebabs 130 baht and up, and best of all is the excellent oven-fresh naan. Air-conditioning indoors, but move outside for mint tea and some puffs of the shisha (water pipe). 130 baht.

- Beirut Restaurant, 1F, Ploenchit Center, 2 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana), +66-2-656-7377. In an unlikely location, next to a supermarket in an otherwise nearly desolate shopping mall, Beirut gets negative points for ambiance but serves up very good Middle Eastern fare. The basic shawarma in a pita is a nice simple snack. 90-220 baht.

- Shahrazad, 6/8 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1 (BTS Nana), +66-2-251-3666. 10AM-2AM daily. Great Middle Eastern, Malaysian and Indian food. Its dishes are well-served by hijab-clad Thai waitresses with many Arab expats hanging out here. It's been open since 1983 and one of Soi Arab's oldest and most respected restuarants. Its decor is very basic, but the food is amazing. Try the stuffed pigeon. 150-350 baht.

European
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- Crepes & Co., 18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 12 (BTS Asok, then a far walk; it is further down the street from Cabbages & Condoms), +66-2-653-3990, [41]. 9AM-midnight daily. This restaurant is a French-Mediterranean crepes place. There is an extensive selection of crepes, both sweet and savory. There's also Spanish tapas and some Greek and Moroccan menus on offer. The atmosphere is homey, as is the garden. The service is friendly and drinking water is served for free. 400 baht.

- Pizzeria Limoncello, 17 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana), +66-2-651-0707. noon-2PM, 6PM-midnight daily. A bright, airy pizzeria; the best Italian-style pizza in Bangkok, very thin and crispy with a great range of toppings. Amazing desserts too (try the profiteroles!). Avoid the house wine, though; as is usual in Thailand, wine is very pricey, at 1300 baht it is not worth it. 250-450 baht.

- Stable Lodge, 39 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana), +66-2-653-0017(-9), [42]. 7AM-midnight daily. Unlike other places, this restaurant (and hotel) focuses on traditional Danish and Scandinavian food, though some Thai and international cuisine is available. There's a Scandinavian all-you-can-eat lunch buffet with open sandwich selection on Saturdays and Sundays between noon and 3PM. Every evening from 6PM is an all-you-can-eat international barbecue buffet. Aside from these discounts offers, a-la-carte is overpriced and not worth it. The hotel is a well-known meeting spot among Scandinavians with a nice family atmosphere. It costs about 1800 baht for a clean and quiet room with swimming pool. 300 baht.

American and Tex-Mex
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- Big Pizza, 732-734 Charoen Suk Rd (far south from Sukhumvit Soi 22), +66-2-663-1330, [43]. Tu-Su 5PM-midnight, M closed. One of Bangkok's best and most popular pizza delivery services. They have the standard pizzas, such as margherita, Hawaii and pepperoni, as well as pastas, salads and side dishes. There's a 350 baht minimum order and delivery takes about one hour. 375-530 baht.

- Bourbon Street Bar & Restaurant, 29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (BTS Phrom Phong, at Washington Square), +66 2-259-0328(-9), [44]. 7AM-1AM daily. This places serves some surprisingly authentic Cajun food. Premium prices are charged for dinner but the two or three-course lunches at 230-290 baht are a good value. On Tuesday evenings they have a Mexican buffet starting at 6PM which is somewhat cheaper than regular prices. 230-690 baht.

- Charley Brown's Mexicana, 1/23 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana, walk up Soi 11 and take a left at the first tailor shop into the small side-street and around the corner you will see it), +66-2-651-2215, [45]. M 5PM-midnight, Tu-Su 11:30AM-midnight. Certainly the oldest Mexican restaurant in Bangkok and probably one of the best. They have special offers on most days, including half priced margaritas and sangrias on Tuesdays and Cheap Charley Brown's night on Sundays (they match the cheap prices at Cheap Charlies who is closed that night). A tip are the 150-baht lunch sets, which is a steal. Free WiFi is available. 400-500 baht.

- Duke's, 5F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-8-7002-9214, [46]. 10AM-10PM daily. Popular place for American food like "Falling Off The Bone" ribs, fresh crisp salads, gourmet burgers and home baked pizzas with excellent value for money. 200-475 baht.

- Great American Rib Company, 32 Sukhumvit Soi 36 (BTS Thong Lo, it is quite a hike from the main road into Soi 36), +66-2-661-3801, [47]. 11AM-11PM daily. Great American Southern-style ribs, steaks and seafood. Probably the most authentic ribs in town, smoked on low heat for 5 hours. Some menus are moderately priced, but others are very pricey (especially the steaks that don't come for less than 600 baht). 195-800 baht.

- Larry's Dive, 8 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-663-4563, [48]. 10AM-1AM daily. Best described as a sports bar in Hawaiian beach theme, although American, Mexican and grill dishes are served as well. They offer gourmet burgers, steaks and barbecue pork ribs. At Fridays they have all-you-can-eat ribs for 399 baht. It also serves an all-day breakfast. If you really want to get a hangover the next day, try their beer challenge: if you drink three pitchers of beer within one hour, the beer will be free and you'll get a free t-shirt. Also, your name will be written on the "wall of fame". Don't wear your best shoes though, as they might fill up with sand. Free WiFi. 400 baht.

- Ronny's New York Pizza, Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana), +66-2-255-2626, [49]. 1PM-3AM daily. Self-proclaimed as the first New York-style pizza place in Bangkok (thin crust, like in Europe, contrary to the pan pizza of the rest of the United States). It's open till late, so that's good, but generally the place is not special by any means. The staff is nice, but the quality of the pizzas leave to be desired. Bring your laptop for free WiFi. 300-450 baht.

- Senor Pico's, 1F, Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit), +66-2-261-7100, [50]. 5PM-1AM daily. One of Bangkok's few Mexican restaurants. It is on the expensive side, but every day of the week (except Mondays) there is a live Latin American band playing. 300-500 baht.

- Sunrise Tacos, 5F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-229-4851, [51]. 10AM-10PM daily. Mexican grill with traditional favorites like nachos, tacos, burritos, enchiladas, fajitas and satisfying salads. The meals are fresh and they have 24 hours delivery available. It is a popular expat place. They have another branch along Sukhumvit Road (between Soi 12 and Soi 14). 100-250 baht.

Australian
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- Tenderloins, 9 Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-258-4529, [52]. 10AM-1AM daily. This Australian barbecue restaurant calls itself a "contemporary upmarket sports bar and steak house", and even they have to admit that it is a weird combination. They serve up a good grill, although a bit on the pricey side. Their 250-baht lunch sets might be a better idea. Reserving a table is recommended, especially at weekends. 250-500 baht.

Splurge
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Fusion
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The trendiest and most upscale fusion restaurant of the moment is the Bed Supperclub, which is listed in the Drink section as it is also one of the most popular clubs.

- Basil, 1F, Sheraton Grande Hotel, 250 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Asok, between Sukhumvit Soi 12 en 14), +66-2-649-8366, [53]. 6:30PM-10:30PM daily. Exceptional traditional Thai food with a twist in this trendy and sophisticated restaurant. It is definitely expensive, but the food is very good and there's a romantic ambiance. Try the matsaman curry, a delicious dish from Southern Thailand. Bring your wallet though. 1000 baht.

- Long Table, 25F, Column Bldg, 48 Sukhumvit Soi 16 (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit), +66-2-302-2557(-9), [54]. 5PM-2AM daily. From the minds of Bed Supperclub, this is another swanky superhip bar and restaurant in Bangkok. Its interior design is very impressive and made this into one of the "see and be seen" venues of Bangkok. All visitors dine at one long table, touted as the longest dining table in the world. Located on the 25th floor, it also provides for an excellent view over Bangkok's skyline. The food could best be described as fusion, with Thai and international cuisine mixed together and, if you wish, drink it with one of their excellent wines. 1500-2000 baht.

Thai
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- Baan Khanitha Thai Cuisine, 36/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23 (BTS Asok), +66-2-258-4181, [55]. 11AM-2PM, 6PM-11PM daily. Well-known if mildly touristy restaurant in an old Thai house, the primary concession to Western tastes being the lack of chili. It is on the expensive side with most mains (especially seafood), but the food is generally excellent and the presentation spot-on. Best known for their pomelo salad (ยำส้มโอ yam som-o) and red curry with duck (แกงแดงเป็ด kaeng daeng pet). 1000-1500 baht.

- Lan Na Thai, 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo, about 100 meters inside the soi on the left), +66-2-713-6048, [56]. 11AM-1:30AM daily. A part of Face Bangkok, which has established itself as one of Thailand's leading dining venues, Lan Na Thai is their trendy and chic Thai restaurant. Its interior looks nothing less than stunning, with cultural artifacts all over. It is surrounded by wooden Lanna-style teak houses that rival Jim Thompson's House. One of Bangkok's must-see locations. 400-800 baht.

Indian
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- Hazara, 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo, about 100 meters inside the soi on the left), +66-2-713-6048, [57]. 11AM-1:30AM daily. A part of Face Bangkok, that also includes an upper class Thai and Japanese restaurant, this is one of the fanciest Indian restaurants in Bangkok. It's named after a region and tribe in Afghanistan, Hazara, whose cuisine has been associated with northern India. 400-800 baht.

- Indus, 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-258-4900, [58]. 11:30AM-2:30PM, 6PM-11PM daily. The food is mainly authentic North Indian with a wide range of spicy Indian tastes. An impressive list of vegetarian dishes is also available, as well as wines from around the world. Its impressive sandstone walls and wood carvings make a great interior. Or go outside, experiencing an amazing world of your own, not even noticing it is right here in downtown Bangkok. It is recommended to make a reservation by phone. 1000 baht.

- Rang Mahal, 26F, Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit), +66 2-261-7100, [59]. 11:30AM-2:30PM, 6:30PM-11PM. Mughal (North Indian) food in surroundings fit for a Maharaja. Fairly expensive, but the all-you-can-eat Sunday champagne brunch buffet at 499 baht is a steal. The restaurant is at the 26th floor, offering great views of Bangkok. Call ahead for reservations and request a window view. 500-700 baht.

Japanese
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- Maru, 95/5-6 Thong Lo Soi 3, +66-2-712-5001. 5PM-midnight daily. A highly praised Japanese restaurant. Prices are extremely high although between 5PM-7PM, they offer reasonably priced dinner sets for around 500 baht. 500-3000 baht.

- Misaki, 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo, about 100 meters inside the soi on the left), +66-713-6048, [60]. 11AM-1:30AM daily. A part of Face Bangkok, one of Thailand's leading dinning venues, Misaki is their Japanese sushi restaurant. Its interior consists of wood, stone, steel and glass, and wonderfully mixes traditional elements with a modern design. 500-800 baht.

European
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- Le Beaulieu, 50 Sukhumvit Soi 19 (BTS Asok), +66-2-204-2004, [61]. 11:30AM-2:30PM, 6:30PM-11PM daily. This French restaurant is probably one of the best in the city. The chef cares about quality and is willing to make changes to the menus at the costumer's request. The atmosphere feels welcome and relaxed at the same time. This all goes for a high price though. The lunch sets are a lot cheaper with about 525 baht for a three-course menu and coffee. 1500-2500 baht.

- La Buca, 220/4 Sukhumvit Soi 1 (BTS Phloen Chit, exit 5), +66-2-253-3190. M-Sa 11:30AM-2PM, daily 6:30PM-11PM. This little Italian restaurant is possibly one of the most authentic in Bangkok. The Italian owner changes the menu weekly, and a good selection of wine is available. Romantic, but on the expensive side, even without wine. 500-800 baht.

- L'Opera, 53/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 (BTS Phrom Phong, from Sukhumvit Road, turn into Soi 39 and continue until the second red light, the restaurant is on the corner on your left), +66-2-258-5606, [62]. 11.30AM-2.30PM, 5PM-23PM. Established 1984, this is the oldest genuine Italian restaurant in Bangkok, and most likely also in Thailand. Though long established as the Italian place to eat amongst the Thai stars, politicians and local business elite, the atmosphere is relaxed and caters to tourists and middle class as well. The food prepared by the Italian chef is top class and they stock a wine selection to match it. It is expensive by any means, 1500 baht is a normal price for a bottle of wine. 1500-3000 baht. (13°44'12.39N,100°34'17.15E)

- Tapas Cafe, 1/25 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana, less than five-minutes walk down Soi 11), +66-2-651-2947, [63]. 11AM-late. Good Spanish food in a nice atmosphere and area. The place is a little off-shot of Soi 11 (look for the signs at the entrance on the left, next door to Charley Browns Mexican Restaurant). It is quite a popular place, good Spanish food, and most importantly, great Sangria. Surprisingly owned and managed by an Englishman. 1200 baht.

Supermarkets
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- Foodland Supermarket, Nai Lert Building, 87 Sukhumvit Soi 5 (Nana BTS Station, opposite Amari Boulevard), +66-2-254-2179, [64]. Open 24 hours. Foodland has everything you'd expect to find in a supermarket at decent prices. You can also find a Foodland on Sukhumvit Soi 16, close to Asok BTS station.

- UFM Fuji Super, 1F, Citi Resort 39 Bldg, 79 Sukhumvit Soi 39 (Ital-Thai Tower pier), +66-2-662-1250(-5), [65]. 8AM-10PM daily. Fuji is a Japanese supermarket specialising in imported foods and snacks that cannot be found in other supermarkets. Also has a small bakery, sushi restaurant, photo shop, and takoyaki stand.

- Villa Market, Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-662-1000, [66]. Open 24 hours. Villa Market has branches all over Sukhumvit Road. It has everything Western customers would expect to find in a supermarket. The outlet at Soi 33 is open 24 hours.

Drink
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The Sukhumvit area contains more watering holes than can easily be counted, and touts are not as big of a problem here as in Patpong. However, the scene is oriented towards Western ex-pats and wealthy high-society Thais, for more of a local ambiance (and local prices) head a bit north to Ratchadaphisek instead.

Go-go bars
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Soi Cowboy (off Asoke Road) and Nana Entertainment Plaza (Soi 4) are packed full of go-go bars much like those in Patpong. Soi 33 is packed with hostess bars, which are more upscale than the Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza bars and do not feature go-go dancing. Since the establishments are jammed side by side on the streets (or along the interior courtyard, in Nana Plaza), it's easy to go go-go bar hopping: they all come in different sizes, music, lighting, and dancer physiques. You'll probably find one to fit your preferences.

While the places all operate with more or less the same concept, the following four have been around for a while and are unlikely to rip you off:

- Angel Witch, 2F, Nana Entertainment Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana). 7PM-2AM daily. A single stage, with choreographed shows most evening at 10PM until midnight. Not as heavily packed outside of showtimes, nor the best place for a single man on the hunt, but an excellent "gentler" introduction for couples and those merely curious to see the sights. Beer 125 baht.

- Long Gun (Lucky Star), Soi Cowboy (BTS Asok). 7PM-2AM daily. Not the largest or flashiest bar — indeed, it has seen better days — but is reputed to be the oldest bar in the Soi and by extension the oldest go-go bar outside of Patpong. It's got a somewhat less frenetic atmosphere than some of the bigger bars, and may be worth a visit as well as a piece of (possibly apocryphal) history. Beer 120 baht.

- Rainbow 4, 2F, Nana Entertainment Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana). 7PM-2AM daily. Squeezes two stages into a small space, and is always packed with girls and punters. Beer 125 baht.

- Suzie Wong, Soi Cowboy (BTS Asok). 7PM-2AM daily. Small and unprepossessing at first sight, the only hint of a Chinese theme are the cheongsams of the waitresses, but this go go and its sister operation Sheba's across the street are famed for putting on some of the best shows in Bangkok. Beer 130 baht.

Sports bars
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Looking for a place to watch your favorite sport on the big screen? Sukhumvit from Soi 2 to 33 offers plenty of choices. The stereotypic bars here are British pubs with rugby on, selling lots of beer and pub grub (be it grill menus or other simple snacks). The workers are young Thai hostesses in tight outfits who serve Western ex-pats that generally are older than 40.

- The Australian, 38 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana, then 500 meters down the Soi on the left), +66-2-651-0800, [67]. 9AM-1AM daily. Good food; excellent but expensive wine, and the most attractive waitresses in Bangkok. But you have to tolerate Aussie Rules football on the TVs!

- Bradmans Sports Bistro (Downunder Bistro), 4/6 Sukhumvit Soi 23 (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit, it is on the right side just past the Jasmine Building), +66-8-6807-1384, [68]. 10AM-2AM daily. An Australian bar and bistro with many TVs everywhere for watching different kind of sports. There are several sound rooms, so customers can watch different sports at different parts of the bar. The owner is actively involved in the business, and sometimes asks his customers which sport should be on.

- Bully's, Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana, between Soi 2 and 4, next to the JW Marriot Hotel), +66-2-656-4609, [69]. 2PM-midnight. A typical Sukhumvit-style bar with drinks, food, pool table and football screens. Beer is averagely priced and always cold, but a simple bottle of water is expensive at 80 baht. The owner can be rude, and drunk, too. But at least they have free internet and you can read the newspaper.

- Gulliver's Traveler's Tavern, 6/1 Sukhumvit Soi 5 (BTS Nana, approximately 50 meters down from the main road on Soi 5), +66-2-655-5340(-42), [70]. noon-1AM daily. A large, western sports bar with English-speaking staff serving Western and Thai food and drinks. There are large flat screen TVs all around, so a variety of sports are shown simultaneously (baseball, soccer, rugby, golf, etc). Plenty of pool tables are in the rear, with female Thai players ready to open up a can of "whoop-ass" on you.

- The Londoner, Basement B, 591 UBC II Bldg, 104 Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong, at the corner of the main road and Soi 33), +66-2-261-0238(-9), [71]. 11AM-1AM daily. Remarkable about this bar is that it is Thailand's only pub that brews its own beer. It has a good atmosphere that's nice for watching sports, and is targeted at ex-pats and tourists alike. Happy hour every day at 4PM-7PM and 11PM-1AM (so most of the day actually). "Quiz night" every Tuesday night at 8PM. Free WiFi.

- The Office, Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong, walk into Soi 33 and take the second street to the right), +66-2-662-1936, [72]. M-Th 3:30-late, F-Sa noon-late, Su closed. Another bar on Sukhumvit with beer, music, live sports, pool tables, hostesses and grill menus. Heineken is on draught for 75 baht each.

- The Robin Hood, P.B Building, 597-597/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 (BTS Phrom Phong, opposite Emporium shopping mall), +66-2-662-3390, [73]. 9AM-midnight daily. English pub with pub grub and daily happy hour specials. Australian and British sports on large flat screen TVs. Popular with ex-pats.

- The Sport Corner, 394/2 Sukhumvit Soi 20 (BTS Phrom Phong, at the corner of Soi 20 just behind the 7-11), +66-8-708-45490, [74]. 2PM-1AM daily. The Sport Corner offers numerous big flat-screen TVs, both indoors and outdoors, showing sports from around the world. Friendly, hassle-free hostesses, along with affordable drinks and Thai and Western food, make it a fun place to cheer your favorite team on.

- Witch's Tavern, 306/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Soi 8 and 10; if you come from the main road, it is on your right-hand side), +66-2-391-9791. 11AM-1AM daily. This is Bangkok's original English pub, kind of an institution in the Thong Lo area. It has live music every night. Wednesday 5PM-9PM is "ladies night", which means free drinks for the girls. Many secretaries from the surrounding office buildings seem to come over at that night. There are at least five English/Irish brews on tap, and you can order pizza.

Beer gardens
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In the winter time ("beer garden season"), popular beer gardens pop up in front of CentralWorld Plaza and Suan Lum Night Bazaar, serving up cold beer and live performances. Sukhumvit has a few places that are open year round:

- Beer Garden Soi 7, 15 Sukhumvit Soi 7 (BTS Nana), +66-255-7858. 10AM-2AM daily. For men only! It is a pick-up joint where men easily get numerous young and not so young ladies for a night, particularly at weekends. It is popular as there is no "barfine" here. It can also be a nice place to relax with moderate Western music, if you tell the ladies to go away. They serve German and other beers, including wheat beer (Franziskaner). You can eat European food at the tables or just have a drink at the bar.

- Cheap Charlie's, Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana), +66-2-253-4648. 4:30PM-1AM daily. An outdoor beer bar, not a garden, that looks like it grew out of the side of the building. Pull up a stool anywhere on the Soi and enjoy a cold one. It's a good place to start the night as the beer starts at 60 baht, a lot cheaper than elsewhere in the area. Seems to mainly attract the young expat crowd.

- Old German Beerhouse, Grand President Tower III, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana), +66-2-651-3838, [75]. 8AM-1AM daily. The only place that looks like a German Brauhaus. The beers served are Warsteiner and Erdinger, but they also have the Frankfurter Apfelwein (a sort of German cider). Along with the beer go their simple Thai or European dishes for 120-200 baht. Free WiFi is also available.

- Singha Beer Park (Singha Beer House), Asoke Rd (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit, 600 meters north from the main road), +66-2-644-4146. M-F 5PM-2AM, Sa-Su 4PM-2AM. This is a modern open-air beer garden. If you choose to sit inside, you'll see its flashy interior and its laid-back couches on which you can enjoy a cold beer. They also have the usual Thai dishes on offer.

Wine bars
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With a growing interest in foreign as well as local wines, there is a growing number of wine bars in Bangkok and many of these are in the Sukhumvit area. Most of these are trendy establishments with selections of exclusive French, Italian, Spanish and other international wines.

- Lake House, 18 Soi Phrom Mit, Sukhumvit Soi 39 (BTS Phrom Phong, walk through Soi 39, then take a right into Soi Phrom Mit and it is at the right-hand side after 500 meters), +66-2-662-6349, [76]. 5PM-midnight daily. An old house, that was once home to famous writers and artists, has now been turned into a wine bar and tapas restaurant. The house sits on a large, turtle-filled pond and is surrounded by a tropical garden. Seating is available in the house, on lake-side gazebos or in the garden. Note: Lake House is closed for the time being due to a recent storm, but will be reopened in November 2010.

- Opera Riserva, 53/4 Sukhumvit Soi 39 (BTS Phrom Phong, walk up into Soi 39 and take a left into Soi Phrom Chit; it is opposite Bio House and next to L'Opera), +66-2-258-5606, [77]. 5:30PM-midnight daily. Opera Riserva is located in conjunction with L'Opera Italian restaurant, fairly deep down Sukhumvit Soi 39. It can be a bit difficult to find for the first time visitor, however those who do are rewarded with a large selection of wine. They range from the affordable to the very exclusive of mainly Italian and French wines, and also offer a selection from other countries. The Opera Riserva wine bar is set on two levels with a dozen or so tables and a large bar on ground floor, and on the second floor a more relaxed setting with several groups of leather sofas and some private rooms - one with a separate entrance for those who prefer to come and go unnoticed. Clientèle is equally local and foreign, and local stars are often spotted here. (13°44'12.62N,100°34'16.13E)

Nightclubs
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If it wasn't for the superhip nightclubs Bed Supperclub and Q Bar, Soi 11 would be quite an ordinary soi. But now it is known as Bangkok's clubbing soi, and in part contributes to Sukhumvit's image as the most cosmopolitan area of the city. An alternative is Soi 23, also home to some of the trendiest clubs in town. These venues are all about seeing and being seen, popular among the well-to-do Thai and expat crowd. Soi 55 (Thong Lo) and Soi 63 (Ekkamai) also have their fair share of places to spend the night, but these are somewhat more modest and have more in common with traditional bars.

Note that fairly strictly applied dress codes apply to the following listings, so no flip-flops, shorts or sleeveless shirts. Always bring your passport as club owners must (and will) check it upon entry.

- Bed Supperclub, 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana), +66-2-651-3537, [78]. M-F 7:30PM-midnight, Sa-Su 7:30PM-1AM. Bangkok's trendiest and most sophisticated club with a sparsely minimalistic yet jaw-dropping decor. Acclaimed international DJs have made their appearance at this all-white spacepod, and there is even a separate VJ taking care of the visual effects. There are different theme nights; Tuesdays are hip-hop night, Wednesdays are models night and Sundays are branded as "Think Pink", being the only gay night of the week. There is a dining lounge at the left side of the club where traditional tables made place for mattresses and pillows. Dining on weekends is recommended, as you'll be treated to a four-course surprise meal and a weekly-changing floor show. Reservations are essential, by telephone or online, as there is only one single serving nightly at 9PM; be sure to request a bed and arrive at least 30 minutes early. Dietary restrictions can be catered for if informed in advance. The bill for all this is steep: the four-course meal will set you back 1750 to 2000 baht plus drinks at around 200 baht a pop. 600 baht.

- Club Nove, 131 Sukhumvit Soi 53 (Thong Lo Soi 9) (BTS Thong Lo), +66-2-712-9991, [79]. 6PM-11PM daily. Club Nove is a hip club that fits perfectly in the quirky Thong Lo area. There is a dance floor in the middle where you can dance on lounge music surrounded by nice lighting effects. Saturdays have been dubbed "Cristal Night". The crowd consists mostly of upper class Thais.

- Narcissus Club (Narz), 112 Sukhumvit Soi 23 (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit), +66-2-258-4805. 7PM-2AM daily. Catering mostly to moneyed Thais, this funky dance club is most reminiscent of the clubs in Ibiza. There is a whole lot going on with on-stage-performances, shiny disco balls and light shows. It is one of Bangkok's top clubbing spots, and a place to see and be seen, especially if you're into trance or house music. It is renowned DJ Paul Oakenfold's venue of choice.

- Q Bar, 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana), +66-2-252-3274, [80]. 8PM-2:30AM daily. A hip two-floor bar often likened to a New York cocktail lounge, renowned for its massive drinks list, generous pourts and always packed dance floor for nearly ten years now. The visitors here are very fashionable, the kind of people who think something is good because it's expensive. If you want a seat, show up before 11PM. M-Th 400 baht, F-Su 600 baht, includes two drinks.

Sleep
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:

Budget

Under 1000 baht

Mid-range

1000 baht to 2500 baht

Splurge

Over 2500 baht

Property values in Sukhumvit are among the highest in Bangkok, and accommodation is priced to match. There are plenty of four and five-star hotels that cater to those with a lot of money (including business travelers). Guest houses à la Khao San Road are hard to find, and will set you back at least twice as much.

Another market is the sex industry. Some hotels nearby Nana Entertainment Plaza and Soi Cowboy offer "short time" stays. This short term option is cheaper, but can only be used for a couple of hours. It is meant for sex tourists and locals who want to spend a couple of hours with their "date". These hotels generally are quite cheap, but they can feel seedy and are not recommended for overnight stays.

Many other hotels explicitly hang up signs banning sex tourists; many of these don't allow you to bring in any Thai lady (which can lead to an awkward situation if you just want to bring a friend or your Thai girlfriend), while others will allow them only if they are present with an ID card at the time of initial registration.

Budget
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- Atlanta Hotel, 78 Sukhumvit Soi 2 (BTS Phloen Chit), +66-2-252-1650, [81]. A dream from 1930s Los Angeles that appeared in Bangkok in the 1950s, The Atlanta never quite loses the quality of a mirage, but the beds are solid enough. The rooms aren't in great condition, it's a long walk up to the third and fourth floors, and the cleaning staff have sticky fingers. But every time you walk into the grand lobby or take a dip in the overgrown jungle pool out back (that's open 24 hours), you'll be glad you're there. And if you've spent any time on Sukhumvit, you'll appreciate the "no sex tourists" sign out front. Rooms come with air-conditioning; other amenities include two computers with internet (and free WiFi if you've brought your own), a helpful travel desk, a decent restaurant and plenty of room for left-luggage. 950 baht.

- HI-Sukhumvit (YHA Sukhumvit), 23 Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS Thong Lo), +66-2-391-9338(-9), [82]. A clean hostel with a nice chill-out area and a friendly staff. You can choose to sleep in a dorm or in a private room. All rooms come with air-conditioning, and breakfast is included in the price. 900-1100 baht, dorm 350 baht per person.

- Soi 1 Guesthouse, 220/7 Sukhumvit Soi 1 (BTS Phloen Chit), +66-2-655-0604, [83]. This is actually one of the best backpacker hostels of the Sukhumvit area. There are 4-bed and 8-bed mixed and female-only dorm rooms, as well as 3 or 4-bed private rooms (with shared bathrooms). All the rooms are are fully air-conditioned. The dorms have a very social atmosphere, so this is not just a place to sleep, but to actively meet and hang out with other travelers (and the owner). Don't expect to actually catch some sleep here, people will turn on the light and ask you to come along with them to party. If that's not for you, then it's a good idea to take another hotel. There is a 24-hour reception, common room, bar, pool table, internet (1 baht/min). The WiFi, lockers and long term storage are free of charge. 400 baht per person.

- Som's Guesthouse, 295/13-14 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (BTS Phrom Phong, walk down soi 22 and take a left into the side-street after the Imperal Queen's Park), +66-2-259-1043, [84]. This is a basic guest house with nine rooms that have cable TV, fridge and hot shower. Six of them have air-conditioning, while the other three only have a fan. Furniture looks shabby and old, but it suffices if you're on budget. 800-900 baht.

- Star Inn Hotel, 131/40-41 Sukhumvit Soi 7/1 (BTS Nana, on the right side if coming from the main road), +66-2-651-0761, [85]. A "short-time" or "long time" hotel with a friendly staff. Rooms are simple, but equipped with a dvd player, air-conditioning, double to king-size bed and mini-fridge. There is a well-equipped bar in the lobby and the restaurant offers barbecue dinners every night with good chefs. Lots of drunk foreigners get dragged in and out by their Thai "date" here all-day. The bar next door has live music until about 4AM, which can make sleeping a challenge. 825-1175 baht.

- Star Light Hotel (27 Hotel), 81 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (BTS Phrom Phong, walk into Soi 22 and take a left into Soi Som Soong, the soi that comes right after Washington Square), +66-2-258-2272. This is an old non-frills Thai-Chinese hotel near Washington Square. As is usual, there are "short time" and overnight options. Rooms for both these types have air-conditioning. Don't expect anything more than just a cheap room. 350-500 baht.

- Suk 11 Hostel, 1/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana, walk up soi 11 and take a left right after the 7-11), +66-2-253-5927, [86]. This is one of the most unique backpacker guest houses in Bangkok. Entering it is like entering another world; the interior looks like a village of traditional wooden houses full of ornaments and secret passageways. For the money, you get a clean and comfortable room. Of course they are somewhat small, but it's on budget, right? Beside the private rooms, in high season you can also stay in a five-bed dorm room. All the rooms have air-conditioning and you can choose whether you want a shared or public bathroom. One rather important nitpick is the staff — they are absolutely crazy when it comes to enforcing policy, which is a big downer on an otherwise unique experience. 700-900 baht, dorm 300 baht per person.

Mid-range
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There is plenty of good quality, mid-range accommodation on Sukhumvit. It is possible to book on a weekly basis and get a large discount at many places.

- Ambassador Hotel, 171 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana), +66-2-254-0444, [87]. The hotel is very big with 750 rooms. Rooms in the tower wing (US$88) has a better view, but the rooms in the main wing are cheaper (US$70). Rooms look a bit worn, but it seems renovation is in progress. No in-room safe, but everyting else was fine. The pool on the roof is especially nice. US$70-190.

- The Davis, 88 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (MRT Queen Sirikit National Convention Center), +66-2-260-8000, [88]. Run by massage parlour magnate-cum-politician Chuwit Kamolsivit, this is one of the best deals in Bangkok; a new fully equipped luxury boutique hotel at lower splurge prices (it will be as low as 1400 baht per night for a month's stay). Each room is furnished differently yet tastefully. The primary negative is the location very deep down Soi 24, quite a hike (15-20 min) from Sukhumvit itself. 2800-4100 baht.

- Ever Rich Inn (Everich Inn), 113 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana, between Soi 5 and 7 across the road from the Landmark Hotel), +66-2-253-4250, [89]. A nice, small, quiet and clean hotel only metres from the Nana BTS station escalator. The best and largest rooms are at either end of the building (either facing Sukhumvit or facing north) as these have windows. Rooms without a window are 200 baht cheaper. 1200-1600 baht.

- Kingston Suites, 39/3-7 Sukhumvit Soi 15 (BTS Asok), +66-2-120-8288, [90]. Classic looking rooms and very spacious with all the mod-cons expected. As it is off the main road, it makes for a quiet stay. There's limited choice on breakfast, but the buffet breakfast is still fine. Try a Martini while there, a hotel specialty. 1600-2000 baht.

- Legacy Express, 29 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phloen Chit, at the corner of the main road and Soi 1), +66-2-655-7474, [91]. This luxury hotel has 63 big rooms with jazzy colours, an LCD TV and a bathroom. There is a 7-Eleven on the ground floor as well as a small restaurant. "Short stay" also available. 1300-2300 baht.

- Livingstone's, Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong, walk into Soi 33 and after 5 minutes the hotel is at the left-hand side), +66-2-261-2800, [92]. This boutique lodge on Soi 33 is particularly good for the single male. It is close to the go-gos and hostess bars. It is very quiet and has a magnificent secluded pool. 1800-3200 baht.

- Majestic Suites, 110-110/1 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana, at the corner with Soi 4), +66-2-656-8220, [93]. This hotel is directly around the corner from Nana Entertainment Plaza and close to the BTS station. The rooms are modern and well-maintained, but some people may find the "single studio" rooms for 1350 baht small. There is ample space for 100 baht more in the "single superior" rooms. Free internet. Not to be confused with the newer, larger and pricier Majestic Grande nearby on Soi 2, although they share ownership and guests at the Suites can get a pass to use the pool and health club at the Grande. 1350-2100 baht.

- Nana Hotel, 21/4 Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana, turn into a small alley off Soi 4, across from the 7-11), +66-2-255-2525, [94]. The rooms are quiet, clean, pleasantly decorated, and serviced daily. There's a decent bathroom with hot water, refrigerator, in-room safe and TV. It is a decent lower-end option, if you are not bothered by the nearby hotspots for sex tourism, and staying in a hotel that also offers an hourly rate. Referred to as "The Mothership" in punter circles. 1490-2390 baht.

- On8 Sukhumvit, 160/1-162 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana), +66 2 254 8866, [95]. A chic hotel in a convenient location near Nana station. Rooms are stylish, modern and clean, though are a bit small. The staff is really friendly, almost like a small family. The On8 cafe serves a decent breakfast and the menu (though small) is varied. Plenty to keep you busy around the hotel with a night market, spas, local restaurants and pubs. Free internet is included in the price. 1800-2200 baht.

- Royal Asia Lodge, 91 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana), +66-2-251-5514, [96]. This is quite a simple hotel that just gets the job done for a lower mid-range price. Furniture looks old, the faucet needs to be fixed and the swimming pool is small. As it is about 800 meters from the main road, it is quieter and cheaper than other hotels. To make up for the distance, there is a complimentary tuk-tuk service that runs to Sukhumvit Road 24 hours a day. 1100 baht.

- Royal Ivory, 73 Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana), +66-2-656-7517, [97]. This hotel is mid-way along Soi 4, but still a ten to fifteen-minute walk from the main road. If you're lazy to walk, there is the free shuttle service. The rooms are surprisingly spacious and quiet, which given its location is a plus, but they look a little run down. Amenities include air-conditioning and cable TV (with satellite TV channels). The pool is small, but fine for a quick dip. The restaurant has a large TV screen, a pool table and serves good local food. Obviously its near the sleazy Nana Entertainment Plaza, so there are lots of middle-aged Western men with bar girls around. 1300-1800 baht.

- Salil Hotel Sukhumvit Soi 8, 50, 50/1 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana), +66-2-253-2474(-7), [98]. This is a small and stylish boutique hotel in the Nana area of Sukhumvit. It has all the modern room facilities you'd expect, including TV, air-conditioning and a water boiler (for noodles or tea). There's no lift, so good luck carrying your luggage upstairs. Breakfast is included. 1690-2500 baht.

- Salil Hotel Thonglor Soi 1, 44/14-17 Sukhumvit Soi 53 (BTS Thong Lo, walk up Soi 53, then take a right into Soi Thong Lo 1 and then a left into a small street), +66-2-662-5480(-3), [99]. This boutique hotel in the Thong Lo area has 40 luxurious rooms that are decorated in color-vintage style. Amenities include air-conditioning, a fridge, free WiFi, LCD TV, DVD player, hairdryer, mini bar and safe. It is close to Thong Lo's BTS station and the party areas of Soi 55 and 63. Price includes breakfast. 1690-2190 baht.

- Sawasdee Sukhumvit Inn, 123 Sukhumvit Soi 57 (BTS Thong Lo), +66-2-714-0703, [100]. Sawasdee has many different discount offers, it's quite a trouble to figure it out, but you might save a few bucks. It is a basic no-frills hotel on the lower end of the mid-range price category. It has 44 decent rooms with air-conditioning, a large bed and windows. They offer good service and the atmosphere overall is relaxed. The coin-operated internet terminals in the lobby cost 10 baht for 15 minutes. 1000-1200 baht.

- Swiss Park Hotel, 155/23 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana, turn right just after the Grand Business Inn), +66-2-254-0228(-9), [101]. This is a well-managed hotel with clean and comfortable rooms. Rooms numbered up to 6 on each floor are more desirable as they have a view, while the others look out onto a building site that seems to have ground to a halt. Free WiFi in the lobby. 1400-2800 baht.

- FuramaXclusive Sukhumvit (formerly Unico Grande Sukhumvit), 27 Sukhumvit Soi 1 (BTS Phloen Chit), +66-2-655-3993, [102]. This is a luxury boutique-style hotel close to both Ploenchit Road and Nana. It's amazing how much luxury you get for the mid-range price tag. The rooms are very clean, as are the bathrooms. There are some nice amenities, including a fridge, air-conditioning and even an umbrella in the room. Breakfast is good. The staff is always grateful to help. There is no pool, but there are two jazucci tubs. One of the best hotels in the Nana area, and often used by foreigners who need to rest after having visited Bumrungrad Hospital. 2200-4000 baht.

- King Park Avenue Hotel, 9/999 Moo 1, Srinakarin Rd (very far off from Sukhumvit Road, deep inside On Nut Road, close to King Rama IX Park. Bus 553 stops here), +66-2-748-1035(-49), [103]. The visitors use this hotel as it is about a 15-20 minute drive from the airport. There are some shopping malls and a large park nearby, but for the rest, its very far off from Sukhumvit proper. It has recently been remodeled, which is a good thing. Rooms are good, beds are comfy, breakfast is nice, and there's a friendly staff. 2300-4500 baht.

- Villa Be your Guest, 24 Sukhunvit Soi 53 (BTS Thong Lo, exit 1, turn right in Soi 53), +66-8-1637-9047, [104]. Because it has only three rooms, the staff in this boutique hotel really gets along on a personal level with their customers. It is in a serene environment close to the busy Thong Lo neighborhood. 1,500-2,500 baht.

- Woraburi Sukhumvit, 128/1 Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana), +66-2-656-7029, [105]. This is a decent and clean lower-end hotel with a swimming pool. It is at the end of the soi, but that's actually a good thing as it's quieter than other hotels in the area. If you order more night at once, they give you a discount. Also, if you order from Booking.com, you can save 200 baht per night compared to booking from the hotel's own website. 1050-2500 baht.

Splurge
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Several of Bangkok's luxury hotels are concentrated on and near Sukhumvit. To splurge in Bangkok is cheaper than you initially think. Your options include:

- Amari Boulevard, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 5 (BTS Nana), +66-2-255-2930, [106]. A distinctively triangle-shaped and conveniently located four-star hotel with two wings, the Krung Thep wing being newer, better and pricier than the older musty Siam wing. Service is not great and every time you exit the hotel you are assaulted by taxi cab drivers and prostitutes. There may be better choices on Sukhumvit Road, but assuming that you've not come to this part of Bangkok for a quiet 'get away from it all' break, the location is great. It is right in the thick of the action, with many of Sukhumvit's attractions a short stroll away. 2300-8500 baht.

- Citrus, 14/4 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-168-7668, [107]. Great modern looking rooms with a very cozy feel. The media connection hub with its free WiFi and usb ports are a great addition. Great little lounge for peoplewatching too. Sukhumvit Soi 22 is a very busy street with no shortage of restaurants, pubs, bars and massage places. 2500-3000 baht.

- JW Marriott Hotel, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2 (BTS Phloen Chit), +66-2-656-7700, [108]. Marriott's flagship in Bangkok, a very short block from Nana Plaza (which explains the colorful clientele). Opened in 1997 and decorated in Thai style, complete with bellboys wearing pith helmets and funny pants. 4960-60,000 baht.

- Park Plaza Sukhumvit, 16 Ratchadaphisek Rd (BTS Asok), +66-2-263-5000, [109]. Opened in 2008, this one has everything you would expect at a solid four-star business hotel. The rooms are nice, clean and spacious. There's a swimming pool at the top of the hotel, from which you have stunning views of Bangkok. Free WiFi throughout the hotel and an extensive breakfast is included in the price. 2420-4950.

- President Palace Hotel, 18 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana), +66-2-120-8888, [110]. A new modern hotel on the trendy Sukhumvit Soi 11, close to all the action, shopping and nightlife. Spacious, comfy and clean rooms, generally with a good view. There's an excellent poolside area with plenty of deck chairs for lounging, although the sun is blocked by a large building most of the day. The Splash Bar by the pool serves nice drinks, and breakfasts are varied. If you're a football fan, there is a Manchester United Restaurant and Bar at the hotel, but if not, plenty of restaurants and bars are within walking distance. 2600-6200 baht.

- President Solitaire Hotel & Spa, 75/23 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana), +66-2-255-7200, [111]. A splendidly quiet and luxury retreat. It has spacious rooms with extremely comfy beds along with large 42" TVs and a kitchenette. You can treat yourself to a massage at the Ananda Spa. Free WiFi throughout the hotel. There's also a free tuk-tuk shuttle service to Nana and Asok BTS stations. A downer if that it's often not possible to book just one night (must be two or more). 3500-4300 baht.

- S15 Sukhumvit Hotel, 217 Sukhumvit Soi 15 (BTS Asok), +66-2-651-2000, [112]. This boutique hotel is right in the middle of Sukhumvit. It's not particularly big, but looks very good. It has a professional atmosphere in an informal way, friendly and relaxing. The restaurant is good too, though choice is a little limited. No pool, but offers a compact gym with steam and sauna. 2600-5500 baht.

- Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Asok), +66-2-649-8888, [113]. High rise five-star hotel ideally located right by Asok BTS station; in fact a walkway connects the station directly to the hotel. Expect all the usual five-star facilities, including some superb restaurants such as the renowned Italian restaurant Rossini's. 6800-18,000 baht.

- Westin Grande Sukhumvit, 259 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Asok, at the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 19), +66-2-207-8000, [114]. Like the Sheraton, the Westin is part of the prestigious Starwood group of hotels. Probably not quite as opulent as the Sheraton, but also noted for some fine dining at the excellent Japanese restaurant Kisso. 4600-9800 baht.

Contact
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Sukhumvit is packed with Internet cafes, pubs and bars offering free WiFi and computer access at rates as low as 0.5 baht/minute. Trying to print something will probably shed a whole new light on your experience. Be wary of key loggers which are reputedly an epidemic at Thai internet cafes. There have also been cases where memory cards get infected with a virus when plugged into an internet cafe computer.

Cope
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- Bunrungrad Hospital, 33 Sukhumvit Soi 3 (BTS Nana), +66-2-667-1000, [115]. Probably the best-regarded (and most expensive) medical tourism hospital in Southeast Asia. It features 554 beds, 33 specialty centers and more than 1000 doctors in many different disciplines. The hospital has over 1.2 million patients annually, of which about 430,000 are from foreign countries. Many of them come here for surgery procedures that are cheaper at Bumrungrad than in their home country. Multiple languages spoken.

- Samitivej Hospital, 133 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (BTS Phrom Phong), +66-2-711-8000, [116]. Another hospital where foreigners are welcome, this one is specialized in medical health check programs. The cheapest check-up program starts at 6500 baht, but more expensive check-ups go for 6500 and 10,000 baht.

Get out
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- If you came here for Soi Cowboy and Nana Entertainment Plaza, Soi Patpong in Silom offers more of the same. If you just came out of Bed Supperclub and want to continue your night the superhip way, Silom is also the way to go.

- Unlike most foreign travellers, the locals tend to go out in Ratchadaphisek. You might want to check out Royal City Avenue (often abbreviated as RCA), an entertainment paradise with bars, clubs and theaters, or one of Ratchada's popular 'sois'.

- Quite similar to Sukhumvit and right next to it is Siam Square, Bangkok's hippest shopping and entertainment district. It is only a 10-minutes Skytrain ride.

District Silom Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By public transit

Skytrain

Metro

By boat

By bus

By train

• See

Parks

Houses of worship

Museums and art

Historic buildings

Skyline

• Do

• Learn

• Buy

Antiques

Tailor-made clothes

Markets

Malls and department stores

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

Soi Patpong

Soi Thaniya

Silom Soi 2 and 4

English pubs

Beer gardens and microbreweries

Superhip

• Sleep

Budget

Ngam Duphli

Elsewhere

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

• Cope

Hospitals

• Get out

Understand
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In the 19th century, daily life in Bangkok mostly took place on and around the canals. Silom was a rural farmland with rice fields, orchards and windmills criss-crossed by canals. During this era, most urban life happened on the riverside, which was a busy trading quarter welcoming European merchant ships and envoys. This area, known as Bang Rak, still has a kind of European atmosphere with many exclusive colonial-style hotels and old abandoned warehouses. Silom (windmills in Thai) has changed immensely with the coming of modern times. Charoen Krung Road (New Road) was the first paved road of Bangkok, built in 1861 during the reign of King Mongkut (Rama IV) at the request of foreign consuls who wanted to ride their horses and carriages. Over time, most of the canals have disappeared and turned into roads.

With the rise of Thailand as a newly industrializing economy, Silom turned into Thailand's major financial center filled with banking institutions, corporate high-rises and condominiums. Many banks, insurance companies, audit and law firms have congregated along Sathorn (เขตสาทร) as well. The district's importance as a business center has been acknowledged by the recent construction of the Skytrain and the metro line right through the district. Their construction has not helped much as traffic congestion continues to be a serious problem in the area. At day, there actually is not that much to do here, except when white-collar workers flock onto the streets for lunch. The fusion of peoples here make this a great place for people-watching. Cigar-smoking Thai business men walk through masses of well-suited secretaries, office workers and Western expatriates. Recently, many Indians and Muslims took residence around the intersection with Charoen Krung Road.

At night, Silom turns into the place to be. It is a vibrant neighborhood that is actually a little hard to describe — in the sense that it has become one of Bangkok's most cosmopolitan streets as well as one of the sleaziest. Soi Patpong is the hedonistic playground all of Bangkok is generally stereotyped for, but it actually consists of just two small sois. These so-called "go-go bars" might as well be called "takeaway brothels", but a trip to Bangkok is not complete without a visit to this surreal environment. But if you fancy something more upclass and tamer, Silom is also the place to be. Some of the expensive hotels in the area cater to rich visitors that like to talk business over a glass of wine. Having a cocktail at the top of the Banyan Tree Building or the State Tower gives some of the best views of Southeast Asia.

Orientation is fairly easy as most of the magic happens at Silom Road, especially where it intersects with Rama IV Road. Heading west, it becomes kind of sleepy around the intersection with Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road. The area starts to live up again when you get closer to the river in the area known as Bang Rak. Parallel of Silom Road lies Sathorn Road to the south and Surawong Road to the north.

Get in
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By public transit
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Skytrain
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Silom Road and Sathorn Road can handily be reached using the BTS Skytrain's Silom Line. BTS station Sala Daeng is right in the middle of the action, close to pretty much all party venues. At the other side is Saphan Taksin station, which is close to Bang Rak's riverside hotels. Surasak and Chong Nonsi fill up the area in between.

There is a direct connection with Siam Square, which takes about five minutes, but if you're coming from another district, traveling will be more complex. From Sukhumvit, you'll need to take the Skytrain to Siam station and transfer onto the Silom Line. The same goes if you're coming from Phahonyothin.

Metro
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The MRT metro system is a good way to reach Silom from Yaowarat and Phahurat, Sukhumvit and Ratchadaphisek. The central stop is MRT station Si Lom, that lies at the entrance of Lumphini Park. It can be used as an interchange station with Sala Daeng BTS station. Other stops include Lumphini, Sam Yan and Hua Lamphong. The metro ride from Sukhumvit or Hualamphong Train Station takes about five minutes, while the ride from Ratchadaphisek takes about ten to fifteen minutes. Trains leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about 16 to 41 baht.

By boat
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If you're coming from Rattanakosin, Khao San Road or some areas of Yaowarat and Phahurat, the fastest way to reach Silom is by Chao Phraya Express Boat. A single trip from Chang pier in Rattanakosin to Sathorn (Taksin) takes about 25 minutes and costs around 18 baht. From here, you can transfer onto the Skytrain's Silom Line and get to many destinations in Silom.

The river boat is the best way to get to and around the Bang Rak area. Si Phraya in the north of Bang Rak and Sathorn (Taksin) in the south are served by fast yellow flag boats. Oriental pier is the most centrally located, but is only served by orange-flag and no-flag lines. Wat Muang Khae is slightly north of Oriental, but is kind of a sleepy pier only served by no-flag lines.

If you happen to be in Thonburi (the area around Khlong San), you can easily take a ferry across the river. There are ferries from Klongsan to Si Phraya, from Wat Suwan to Oriental and from Sathorn (Taksin) across the river to the pier of the same name. Every 15 minutes a ferry leaves and won't cost you more than a mere 3 baht.

By bus
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Due to heavy congestion and the complexity of the bus system, getting to Silom by bus can only be advised if you have a lot of time or are on a stringent budget. Being a part of Bangkok's downtown, many lines run through Silom, but finding the right one is a challenge. Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 15 comes from Phra Athit Road and then passes Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road), moves along Lan Luang Road, Chakkaphatdi Phong Road and Bamrung Muang to Siam Square. From there, it continues along Ratchadamri Road and then goes all the way over Silom Road to Charoen Krung Road, the Krung Thep Bridge and The Mall Tha Phra in Thonburi.

From Yaowarat, catch bus 4 from Charoen Krung Road which goes along Rama IV Road, passing Hualamphong Train Station and the Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm before reaching the intersection with Silom Road. In the opposite direction, this bus will skip Charoen Krung Road, passing Yaowarat Road instead (which is a one-way traffic road).

By train
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Hualamphong Train Station, while technically right over the edge in Yaowarat and Phahurat, is very easy to reach from elsewhere in the district. Just take the metro to Hua Lamphong station and the station will be right in front of you. From there, getting a train is done in no time, and before you know it, you'll be heading for Ayutthaya or Chiang Mai.

See
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Traditional sightseeing attractions are rather rare on the ground in Silom, though many visitors make a head for Lumphini Park or one of the twice-daily shows at the Snake Farm.

Parks
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- Lumphini Park (สวนลุมพินี Suan Lumphini), (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Lumphini, between Rama IV Rd, Ratchadamri Rd, Wireless Rd (Wittayu) and Sarasin Rd). 5AM-7PM, daily. A rare expanse of public greenery in the heart of the city, it was once property of King Rama VI, who issued a royal command to turn the area into a public park as a gift to Bangkok's residents. The park's symbol, a statue of its creator Rama VI, stands at the main entrance at the southwestern corner, right opposite MRT Si Lom station. The park has a lake with boats for rent and with a cycle track around it, and is popular among early-morning fitness enthusiasts, but there's little reason to wander in during the daytime heat. The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra does, however, put on occasional performances in the winter. Despite the above comments, there are also rather large lizards/goannas in the place - they are well worth a look. They tend to spend most of their time in the water of the lake. Do not get too close to one, they can BITE (if Aussie ones are any indication - and it usually gets badly infected!) Free.

- Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute Snake Farm (สถานเสาวภาสภากาชาดไทย), 1874 Rama IV Rd (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom, near Chulalongkorn Hospital at the corner of Henri Dunant Rd and Rama IV Rd), +66-2-252-0161(-4). M-F 8:30AM-4:30PM, Sa-Su, hols 8:30AM-noon. Venom extraction show M-F 11AM and 2:30PM, hols 11AM. Slideshow presentation M-F 10:30AM and 2PM, hols 10:30AM. This institute contains a collection of poisonous snakes which are "milked" daily for their venom in order to produce invaluable anti-snakebite serum. Two times a day a venom extraction show is held, in which the announcer explains about the dangerous kinds of snakes living in Thailand and what to do when you run into one. The animals are treated with professional care and the whole show is absolutely safe. If you want to a picture with a dangerous snake curling around you — this is your chance. 200 baht.

Houses of worship
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Silom lacks the impressive overload of Buddhist temples common in other districts. Wat Hua Lamphong and Wat Maha Phruettharam could be seen as exceptions to this, though they are no must-visits by any means. However, due to the historical presence of the trade quarter, there are plenty of European-style churches and old shophouses that can be visited. Also, the current Hindu and Muslim population has chipped in with the most important Hindu temple of Thailand on Silom Road, and several mosques.

- Assumption Cathedral (อาสนวิหารอัสสัมชัญ), 23 Soi Oriental (BTS Saphan Taksin or Oriental pier, opposite Oriental Hotel), +66-2-233-7120, [1]. daily. The Assumption Cathedral is the main Roman Catholic church of Bangkok. The original building at this place was the brainchild of French missionary Father Pascal in 1809, and completed in 1821. Throughout the second part of the 19th century, the area surrounding the church played an important role for French Christian missionaries arriving in Bangkok. It is near the Oriental Hotel and the French Embassy in an area that still captures somewhat of its French history. The current church dates from the 1910s, when the building was completely reconstructed in a Romanesque style. It was heavily damaged by bombing in World War II, but was restored after extensive repairs. Its rectangular structure and red brick exterior makes it stand out from the dull white surroundings. Its interior is spacious with a high ornate ceiling. Pope John Paul II visited the church in 1984, showing the prominence of the church in the Roman Catholic community of Thailand. The only religious service in English is held Sundays at 10AM. Free.

- Christ Church (Anglican Church), 11 Convent Rd (BTS Sala Daeng, at the corner of Convent Rd and Sathorn Nuea Rd), +66-2-234-3634, [2]. M-F 8:30AM-4:30PM, Sa closed, Su only open for religious services. The English-speaking international church community residing in the church actually dates from the 19th centrury, when the first Protestant missionaries came to Bangkok. At first British Anglicans came over to spread their belief, but in the late 19th century, most of the Protestant missionaries arrived from the United States. In 1861, King Rama IV gave permission for the construction of the Protestant Union Chapel around Charoen Krung Road, which was commonly known as the English Church. As Protestantism grew, a larger church was required, and in 1904, Rama V gave permission for the construction of the Christ Church on the condition that Protestants of all nationalities or sects could use it as their house of worship. You might not believe it now, but back then this area was a farming area with canals and orchards. Due to the economic growth of the Silom area, it is now right in the middle of office buildings and condominiums. Many Christian expats and locals gather here on Sundays at 7:30AM or 10AM for a religious service. It is a beautiful white church that is also interesting for the occasional visitor. Its interior has been completely renovated in 2008, restoring the amazing stained glass windows from 1905. Free.

- Sri Mariamman Hindu Temple (Wat Phra Sri Maha Umathewi วัดพระศรีมหาอุมาเทวี or Wat Khaek วัดแขก), 2 Pan Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi, at the corner of Silom Rd and Pan Rd), +66-2-238-4007. 6AM-8PM daily. One of only two Hindu temples in Bangkok, the Sri Mariamman Temple is actually a great experience. It was created in the 1860s by Tamil immigrants, and as with any temple found in India, it is unique, very colorful and ornately detailed. It generally is a busy temple with a constant stream of worshippers lighting incense sticks and plenty of ceremonies going on. Besides Indians, there are also Thai visitors as Buddha images stand side by side Hindu deities inside the temple. As it is the most sacred place for the Indian community in Bangkok, it is not allowed to take pictures inside the temple compound. Free.

- Wat Hua Lamphong (วัดหัวลำโพง), Rama IV Rd (MRT Sam Yan, at the corner of Rama IV Rd and Si Phraya Rd). Rarely visited by foreigners, Wat Hua Lamphong is actually not that remarkable, but it is lively and thus gives a good insight in how the locals experience their religion. The temple has been extensively remodeled in 1996 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the ascension to the throne of King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX). The decorations used throughout the temple consist of elephants and tiered umbrellas, which indicates that it is a royal temple. In the ordination hall, the viharn is unusual, as it is raised on a one-story high platform. There are plenty of shrines inside the temple, one of them dedicated to King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) and another one to the Hindu god Ganesha. Free.

- Wat Maha Phruettharam (วัดมหาพฤฒาราม), Maha Phruettharam Rd (from Si Phraya pier, walk onto Si Phraya Rd, take a left into Charoen Krung Rd, then take a right into Maha Phruettharam Rd). 8AM-6PM daily. You are far off the beaten path when visiting this old monastery, but it's definitely a sight for those interested in Buddhism. The exact origin of this temple is unknown, but it is believed to have originated from the early Rattanakosin era or late Ayutthaya period. It had several names, but got its permanent name during the reign of King Rama IV, who extensively renovated it and raised its status to a third-grade royal temple. The temple takes up a vast amount of space and has an extensive courtyard. The murals inside the ordination hall show a set of Buddhist pilgrims. The large reclining Buddha is worth seeing. Thai people come over to place small bills of money next to it as they believe it brings good luck. Free.

Museums and art
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- Bangkokian Museum (Bangkok Folk Museum, Bang Rak Museum), 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43 (Si Phraya pier), +66-2-233-7027. W-Su 10AM-5PM, M-F closed. This typical wooden Thai-style family house was built in 1937 and originally was the home of the Suravadee family. It was converted into a museum that gives an insight into the lifestyles of middle-class Bangkokians during World War II and the 1950s. On display are antiques, household items, a kitchen, sanitation and toilet facilities used during the war. Part of museum is devoted to maintaining the history of Bang Rak and Silom, showing the farms, canals and windmills that used to be characteristic for this area. Free.

- Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi, near the Sri Mariamman Hindu Temple), +66-2-234-6700, [3]. Tu-Su 11AM-7PM, M closed. Housed in an old (but beautifully restored) Portuguese shophouse, this is probably the only gallery in Bangkok totally devoted to the art of photography. Its owner, photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom, tried to resemble the photographers' shops of old, where visitors walked in and carefully chose one of the prints on sale. The gallery on the ground floor is all about the work of the owner, while the (tiny) upper floor has changing exhibitions. There's also a book corner for those more interested in photography. Free.

- King Rama VI Statue (พระบรมราชานุสาวรีย์พระบาทสมเด็จพระมงกุฏเกล้าเจ้าอยู่หัว), (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom, right at the entrance of Lumphini Park). Located in front of Lumphini Park, the statue was sculpted by Professor Corado Feroci, an Italian sculptor that in Thailand is better known as Silpa Bhirasri. He and four Thai artists gave it the final touch on 7 June 1941, so it could be revealed on 27 March 1942. It is devoted to King Vajiravudh (Rama VI), who asked the Italian government for an artist to teach and promote art in Thailand (which at that time was seen as not able to cope with European standards). King Vajiravudh is displayed as standing in his ceremonial uniform and holding a sword. It's not a coincidence that Lumphini Park is its location: King Vajiravudh donated this large plot of land to the city's citizens by turning it into a public park. Free.

- M.R. Kukrit's Heritage Home (บ้านซอยสวนพลู), 19 Soi Phra Phinit (BTS Chong Nonsi, then walk towards and cross Sathorn Rd and take a left into Soi Phra Phinit), +66-2-286-8185, [4]. Sa-Su 9:30AM-5PM, M-F closed. M.R. Kukrit Pramoj (1911-1995) was an important writer, lecturer and statesman and served as the prime minister of Thailand. His legacy is this complex of five teak houses that used to be his home. They are an astonishing example of traditional Thai architecture, with the oldest teak home more than one hundred years old. The surrounding garden plays an important role in the design of the property, as that's the glue holding the different houses together. 50 baht.

- Neilson-Hayes Library, 195 Surawong Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi), +66-2-233-1731, [5]. Tu-Su 9:30AM-5PM, M closed. Visiting a library during your trip might seem a bit odd, but this one might convince you. The library has the largest collection of English language books in Bangkok, catering to the many Western expats in the area. There is also an art gallery, a cafe, creative workshops and plenty of events throughout the year. Also, the European-style building from the late 19th century is of great architectural interest. Free.

Historic buildings
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- East Asiatic Company Building (อาคาร บริษัท อีสท์ เอเชียติก เก่า), (right in front of Oriental pier). Right at the banks of the Chao Phraya river is this classical Venetian-style building from the Danish East Asiatic Company. It was built in 1901. A large share of foreign trade that came from the warehouses had to go through this building before heading for Europe. No public entry allowed.

- Old Customs House, Charoen Krung Soi 36 (Oriental pier). Right at the banks of the Chao Phraya river, the Old Customs House is right where the 19th-century port of Bangkok used to be. Now it is a crumbling building which needs a lot of renovation to get back into a useful state, but its obvious that this grand colonial-style home was once the pride of the area. It was built in the 1880s and used to levy taxes on traders that moved in and out of Siam. It's not open to the public, but you can walk around and try to grasp the atmosphere of Bangkok in the 19th century. It was used in Wong Kar Wai's In the Mood for Love, a Chinese movie that's worth the watch. Free.

Skyline
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While Silom's skyline doesn't match Hong Kong's or New York's, the views are still worth it. A part of the skyline of Bangkok, Silom's skyline is different in that most of its buildings are financial institutions and office buildings (as opposed to Sukhumvit which is mostly home to hotels and department stores, and Phahonyothin which has a lot of residential towers). The best way to enjoy Silom's skyline is by taking a trip up the Banyan Tree Building. At the 61st floor, visit Vertigo Bar and dine or have a beer watching one of the most spectacular views of Southeast Asia. An alternative is the State Tower, the world's tallest rooftop bar/restaurant. It is a few meters higher up than Vertigo — but due to its slightly off-center location, the views are arguably not quite as stunning. See the Drink section for more information about these rooftop bars.

Most of Silom's buildings, however, are office buildings that are not meant to be visited. Heading out to take a look at these office buildings can only be recommended for those having a deeper interest in modern architecture and/or the financial sector. Besides the ones already mentioned, some notable (and quirky) office buildings that dominate the skyline are the CP Tower, Empire Tower, the ITF Tower, the Robot Building and the United Center.

- Robot Building (Bank of Asia, United Overseas Bank Headquarters), 191 Sathorn Tai Rd (BTS Surasak, at the corner of Sathorn Tai Rd and Sathorn Soi 9). Probably one of the quirkiest buildings on the globe, the Robot Building, well, looks like a giant robot. It was designed by Sumet Jumsai in the mid-1980s and is meant to reflect the computerization of banking. It is an odd building, and Jumsai has explicitly stated that it could be regarded as a reaction against high-tech postmodern buildings common in that time. The antennas and eyes of the robot are not just for the looks, but all have practical functions. At that time no one really saw it, but now the building feels kind of retro. It is closed to the public, but you can see it from the Skytrain platform at Surasak station.

Do
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Due to many rich business travelers visiting Silom, it is an excellent destination for high-class spas. Particularly well-regarded are the spas include Devarana (at the Dusit Thani Hotel), and the eponymous operations at Banyan Tree and the legendary Oriental — the last of these probably being the most expensive in town, offering (among other things) a six-hour Oriental Romance package for two costing a whopping US$535. .

- BODY Tune, 2F, Yada Bldg, 56 Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng, exit 3), +66-2-238-4377, [6]. 10AM-midnight daily. Well-respected small chain offering excellent traditional Thai massages. 350 baht/hour.

- Deverana Spa, Dusit Thani Hotel Bldg, 946 Rama IV Rd (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom), +66-2-636-3596, [7]. 9AM-10PM daily. Easily the most luxury spa of the city in the Dusit Thani Hotel. There are 15 treatment rooms, including five spa suits. Expect a very professional service and a beautiful modern interior. If you need to ask the price, it means you probably cannot afford it.

- Lumpinee Boxing Stadium (สนามมวยลุมพินี), Rama IV Rd (MRT Lumphini), +66-2-251-4303. Matches Tu, F 6:30PM, Sa 4:30PM and 8:30PM. An enjoyable way to understand more of Thai culture is by visiting a Thai kickboxing (Muay Thai) match. Foreigners pay 1000-2000 baht depending on proximity to the ringside, while Thais can squeeze in for 230 baht. The matches take long though, and as the more interesting matches tend to happen at the end, you might want to skip the first hour.

- Mambo Cabaret, 9/28 Sathu Pradit-Rama 3 Rd (near the Rama III Rd and Sathu Pradit Rd intersection, between Rama III Soi 57 and 59; take a metered taxi from BTS Chong Nonsi), +66-2-294-7381(-2). Showtime 7:15PM, 8:30PM, 10PM daily. Touted as the "queen" of drag shows, this ladyboy show performs three times a day. A show takes one hour and has all the glitz and glamour you would expect. Before it was located at Washington Square along Sukhumvit Road, but now it has moved far off to the area around Rama III Road. You can take a picture with the performers when the show ends, but you will have to pay extra for it. Booking beforehand is recommended. 1000 baht.

- Ruen Thep, 286/1 Silom Rd (at the Silom Village Trade Center), +66-2-635-6313, [8]. Showtime 8:20PM-9:10PM. In the evenings you can catch this authentic performance of various forms of traditional Thai dance. It is part of the Silom Village Trade Center complex. It might be a good idea to make a reservation by phone beforehand. 600-900 baht.

- Traditional Thai Puppet Theater (นาฏยศาลา หุ่นละครเล็ก, also known as the Joe Louis Theater), 1875 Rama IV Road (MRT Lumphini, inside the Suan Lum Night Bazaar), +66-2-252-9683(-4), [9]. Showtime 7:30PM-8:45PM daily. The establishment of this theatre was inspired by Sakhon Yangkhieosot, or Joe Louis, who wished to preserve the art of operating Hun Lakhon Lek puppets. In operating the puppets, the puppeteers require basic skills of Khon performance as they will have to move their footsteps and hand gestures to coincide with those of the puppets. Each puppet is operated by three puppeteers, lending it lifelike movements. Hun Lakhon Lek usually performs the story of Ramakian, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Sakhon Nattasin is currently the only performing troupe of Hun Lakhon Lek in Thailand. The show is in Thai with translations into English, and there is a segment where the puppets interact with audience members that is popular with children. There is also a corner inside the theatre where Khon mask making is demonstrated, with a gallery of the Hun Lakhon Lek puppets and their background. 3000 baht.

Learn
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- BaiPai Cooking School, 150/12 Soi Naksuwan (far south in a small soi off Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road), +66-2-294-9029, [10]. Tu-Su 9:30AM-1:30PM, 1:30PM-5:30PM, M closed. Participants will get to learn and enjoy the cooking lessons with genuine and traditional Thai recipes which are properly and accurately transferred together with secrets, tips and tricks. A nice casual cooking school with a nice modern design in the middle of the Yan Nawa residential neighborhood. Their van will pick you up from your hotel or location in Bangkok, because it's not easy to find. Instructors are fun and informative, and you get a souvenir printed photo (and one is even emailed to you). As classes are only given in the morning till the early afternoon, you still have the rest of the day for sightseeing. 1800 baht.

- Blue Elephant Cooking School and Restaurant, 233 Sathorn Tai Rd (BTS Surasak), +66-2-673-9353, [11]. 8:45AM-1PM or 1:15PM-4:30PM daily. Take classes from one of the most famous chains of Thai restaurants in the world. While the price is substantially higher than others in Bangkok, class takes place in the historic Blue Elephant restaurant, and while dining on your creations, wine, extra dishes and dessert are served. And they give you a Blue Elephant apron as well. 2800 baht.

- Silom Thai Cooking School, 68 Silom Soi 13, +66-8-4726-5669, [12]. 9AM-1PM or 1:40PM-6PM daily. A quaint cooking school in an air-conditioned environment. It is very clean and the instructor will have you frequently washing your hands before preparing each dish. Cooking classes are given in the morning and afternoon. The setting is more like a dinner party rather than a classroom cooking school. Definitely worth a try. 1000 baht.

Buy
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At first, shopping around Silom might feel a little lacklustre compared to Sukhumvit. Its department stores and malls are bland at best, but if you're in need of something, they are not short on supply. If you're looking for antiques, arts, handicrafts, silk and suits, however, Silom is the place to be. Especially the Bang Rak area is good, as that's where the rich potential buyers stay in expensive riverside hotels. Hundreds of jewelry and silver stores line up along Charoen Krung Road.

Antiques
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Don't forget the license

Antique shopping is fun, and statues, fabrics, woodcarvings and furnitures are some of the products that might interest you. Be careful that some cultural objects need an export license if you want to take them out of the country. This is especially the case for Buddha images, Bodhisattva images or parts of ancient monuments and prehistoric objects. Any reputable dealer should be able to give advice and get the paperwork in order. You can also contact the Office of Archaeology and National Museums (81/1 Si Ayutthaya Road, Dusit, +66-2-628-5032) for more information.

- House of Chao, 9/1 Decho Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi), +66-2-635-7188. 10AM-6PM daily. This mall is filled with dusty antique shops. Many of the items on sale are pure junk, but maybe you'll find that one interesting teak treasure you've been waiting for.

- Jim Thompson Store, 9 Surawong Road (BTS Sala Daeng, then walk through Soi Thaniya and take a right), +66-2-632-8100, [13]. 9AM-9PM daily. The flagship store of the famous Thai silk brand, offering well-designed pieces of high quality silk at equally high prices. Spread out over four floors, this store offers the full range of Thompson's products, including lengths of raw silk.

- O.P. Place, 30/1 Charoen Krung Soi 38 (BTS Saphan Taksin, Sathorn (Taksin) pier, behind The Oriental Hotel), +66-2-266-0186. 10:30AM-6:30PM daily. This luxury neo-classical building is a great starting point for your antiques hunt through Silom. There are many floors with different shops selling antiques, carpets, decorations, handicrafts, jewelry, paintings, silk and many other cultural objects. The third floor is an arts and crafts gallery. The whole mall has a high-class atmosphere attached to it, so expect truly expensive objects on sale.

- Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd (BTS Surasak), +66-2-630-0944(-50), [14]. 9:30AM-6:30PM daily. This mall has more than one hundred art, antique and gem stores, but it all feels a bit deserted and empty. There are plenty of art exhibitions held, Thavibu and Tang are the most interesting ones on contemporary Asian art.

- Silom Village Trade Center, 286 Silom Rd (BTS Surasak), +66-2-235-8760, [15]. 10AM-9PM daily. Supposedly the last traditional Thai village on Silom Road, Silom Village is comprised of 15 teak houses as well as three buildings that were constructed in 1908. The compound has been converted into Thai handicraft shops, a restaurant and a hotel. It is a touristy theme market, but still a good place to look for souvenirs, handbags, handicrafts and furniture. Be aware that many items are fakes though.

Tailor-made clothes
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Bangkok is particularly well-known for its plethora of tailoring shops; here you can get a custom-made suit for amazingly cheap prices compared to the West. Choosing a tailor is tricky though. Tailors in the middle of tourist areas, such as Khao San Road or Nana Plaza in Sukhumvit, generally provide poor quality and often quote silly prices. Avoid any tailor recommended by touts or tuk-tuk drivers as they cannot be trusted and you'll have to pay their commission; also avoid super-cheap packages or anything done in 24 hours, as the quality will suffer accordingly. The most important rule for getting a good tailor: do research. Don't just walk in the first tailor shop you see, but ask fellow travelers and look online for (user) reviews. In general, the best tailors are slightly off the tourist track in Silom and Sukhumvit.

It will help considerably if you know fabrics and what style you want (bring along a sample or at least a picture), and can spare the time for at least three sessions for a suit (measurement, fitting and final adjustment). Prices obviously depend on the tailor's skill and the materials used, but expect to pay at least 7000 baht for a two-piece suit. When picking the materials, you're best off with Italian or English cloth as local fabrics are often of poor quality (with the exception of silk). Insist on two fittings for suits. Give the tailor a lot of detail and give yourself time, so you will get exactly the suit you want.

- Excelsior, Siam Heritage Hotel Bldg, 115/1 Surawong Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi or BTS Sala Daeng, opposite Le Meredien), +66-2-234-2399, [16]. 9AM-10:30PM daily. One of the better shops around Silom for hand-tailored clothing. It's been in business since the 1920s. Here you can get a $5000 Armani knockoff for around $300, all in good quality. You can even call them and ask for a free pick-up. Definitely one of the better places to get suits done in Bangkok.

- Savile Row Company, Rose Hotel Bldg, 118 Surawong Rd (behind Le Meridian), +66-2-235-4427. 9AM-9:30PM daily. Another hand-tailored clothing store for men and women that has been in the business for 40 years. From a Swiss Cotton shirt to a Crease Resistant Italian suit, Savile Row Company has plenty of options. The staff is very professional and the quality of clothing is very good. Expect to pay around US$300-450 for a suit.

Markets
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- Bang Rak Market, Charoen Krung Soi 46 (BTS Saphan Taksin or Sathorn (Taksin) pier, near the Shangri-La Hotel), +66-2-250-5500. 6AM-9PM daily. A beacon of cheapness in the exclusive Bang Rak neighborhood, this market is essentially a flower market. There are flowers on sale for all occasions and for every budget, including wholesale prices. There's especially a large supply of orchids and cut flowers. If you're hungry, though, there's also ample meat, seafood and fruit on sale, and of course the usual clothes stalls for the ladies.

- Patpong Night Market, Soi Patpong 1 and 2 (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom). 6PM-1AM daily. Between the strip clubs and bars along Patpong Road is the Patpong Night Market. This market is designed for tourists and is not frequented by locals. These markets are home to a variety of counterfeit merchandise including watches, clothes, bags, and cosmetics as well as Thai tourist products such as model tuk-tuks and kick-boxing shorts. The prices at this market are exorbitant and anyone brave enough to buy anything here should bargain extensively. Most items available at the Patpong Night Market are available for less than half the price at other locations in Bangkok.

- Soi Lalaisup Market (Soi Lalapsai, Soi Lalai Sap), Silom Soi 5 (BTS Chong Nonsi). M-F 10AM-3PM, Sa-Su closed. This street market caters for the many secretaries and banking employees from the surrounding office buildings in Silom. Its name literally means "vanishing money", and that's mostly what happens here. There are plenty of goods for sale, including garments and personal hygiene products. It's busiest around 1PM, when white-collar workers have lunch, so visit it around that time. You might want to get a meal as well, try some of the fruits and snacks on sale at the hawker stalls.

Malls and department stores
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- Central, 5F, Silom Complex, 191B Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom), +66-2-231-3333, [17]. 10:30AM-9PM daily.

- Chamchuri Square, 319 Phaya Thai Rd (MRT Sam Yan), +66-2-746-6850(-3), [18]. 10AM-10PM daily. Silom's newest shopping mall still feels quite empty and spacious. It is clean and modern, though, and all the big chain stores have moved in. It caters towards the needs of the many nearby Chulalongkorn University students, so there are many book shops, ice cream parlors and other eateries.

- Robinson (ห้าง โรบินสัน บางรัก), 1522 Charoen Krung Rd (BTS Saphan Taksin, Sathorn (Taksin) pier), +66-2-238-0052(-61), [19]. 10:30AM-10PM daily.

- Silom Complex, 191 Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng), +66-2-632-1199, [20]. 10:30AM-9PM daily. Silom's largest mall is a bit quiet, but the restaurants and TOPS Supermarket in the basement aren't bad. Central Department Store is at the rear of the complex and is accessible at every level of the complex. The top floor of Silom Complex has a large electrical goods retailer and a well-stocked office supplies retailer.

- Thaniya Center/Thaniya Plaza, 52 Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng), +66-2-231-2244, [21]. Two connected malls which run along Soi Thaniya, a street which is populated predominantly by Japanese restaurants and hostess bars. The Thaniya Plaza consists almost exclusively of golf equipment shops (except for a few Japanese restaurants) and the Thaniya Center also has its share of golf shops, as well as a few other tourist-oriented outlets.

Eat
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:

Budget

Under 100 baht

Mid-range

100-500 baht

Splurge

Over 500 baht

Fancy restaurants, cafes, noodle shops and international chain stores line the streets around Silom Road.

Budget
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As Silom is also a neighborhood popular with the locals, there are enough places for cheap meals. For authentic Japanese food at reasonable prices, pop into one of the many eateries on Soi Thaniya. For affordable seafood stalls, walk into Naradhiwas Nagarindra Rd from Silom Rd and take a left into a lane before passing the 7-Eleven.

Bang Rak defines the melting pot of Bangkok's cuisine. There are various ethnic eateries in that area, including Thai, Chinese, Indian and Muslim cuisines. But you can also find plenty of noodle shops, stewed pork with rice (ข้าวขาหมู) stalls and roasted duck with rice (ข้าวหน้าเป็ด) eateries. As this is a poorer neighborhood, dishes are served for no more than 80 baht.

- Momotarou Ramen House, 9/19-21 Soi Thaniya (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom; at the end on the right of the street if walking from Silom Road), +66-2-235-0108. Simple budget eatery for some Japanese noodles. There are no English signs outside, only a white sign with red Japanese signs. 70 baht.

- Nooddi, 60/1 Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng), +66-2-632-7989, [22]. A trendy chain of noodle eateries, offering a variety of styles (Thai, Chinese, Japanese) in air-conditioned surroundings for less than 50 baht a bowl. Try the iced tea; the "glass" is big enough for two! 39-59 baht.

- Takoemon, Soi Thaniya (one soi down from the main Soi Thaniya towards Rama IV Road). Specializes in amazingly good takoyaki (Japanese-style octopus dough balls), especially when given that they cost 30 baht per box of 6. Ramen and udon noodles in the 30-60 baht range also available. 30-60 baht.

Mid-range
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- Cafe India, 460/8 Surawong Rd (opposite Trocadero Hotel Building, near the intersection of Surawong Rd and Charoen Krung Rd), +66-2-233-0419. Lunch 11AM-3PM daily, dinner 6PM-10:30PM daily. Has been serving up amazing Indian food since at least the war years. Many other old GI bars and restaurants in and around Patpong are still in business and worth visiting. Beware of some of the wraith-like vets who never made it home however. Some of these can be very disturbing to encounter.

- Edoya Japanese Restaurant, 1F, Charn Issara Tower I Bldg, 942/51 Rama IV Rd (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom), +66-2-233-0232, [23]. M-Sa 11:30AM-2PM, 5:30PM-11PM, Su 5:30PM-11PM. One of Bangkoks oldest and most reputable restaurants that has received visits from the Japanese Ambassador. A warm, friendly and traditional style. Lunch sets 190 baht, meals 300-1000 baht.

- Ichimonji (一文字), 9/34 Soi Thaniya, +66-2-235-7889. Buried in the depths of the soi, this is a typical Japanese-style pub and eatery. Their set meals are decent value, and English menus are available. 150-250 baht.

- Harmonique, 22 Charoen Krung Soi 34 (Oriental pier), +66-2-237-8175‎. While much more well-known by tourists than in the past, it still has a unique atmosphere set in a courtyard with three quaint town houses on the background. It's food could best be described as a mix between Thai and Chinese cuisine. 450 baht.

- Queen of Curry, 49 Charoen Krung Soi 50 (Sathorn (Taksin) pier or BTS Saphan Taksin), +66-8-6559-7711. Known as one of the best restaurants of Bangkok, don't expect grandeur or expensive bills here. This modest restaurant lacks any appearance, you might even see children do their homework in the back. But the customers rave about the food, which is stunning. They really are the queen of curries, which can only be described as some of the best in Thailand. With great service for a small price, this is a true gem, though more and more foreigners seem to know about it. You must try the green chicken curry, or ask the friendly staff for a recommendation. 150-300 baht.

- Prachak Restaurant (ประจักษ์เป็ดย่าง), 1415 Charoen Krung Rd (BTS Saphan Taksin, across the road from Robinsons; look for the red sign with the white duck on it), +66-2-234-3755, [24]. 7:30AM-8:30PM. A very small restaurant that nevertheless managed to become famous by word of mouth. The owner is currently the fourth generation running this restaurant that is more than one hundred years old! No fancy banners, or even an English sign, just good food that is well known among the locals. Ordering is no problem as the menus have pictures shown. It is famous for its duck, but get there early before it runs out. They also serve some good pork and noodle soup. 100 baht.

- Red PInn, 120/20 Soi Pramote 3 (around the corner from Holiday Inn Silom; walk about 200 meters into Mahe Sak Rd, then take a right into the first small street on the right), +66-2-235-80-41, [25]. 11AM-10PM. This home cooking restaurant has some nice peasant food from around the world, including Northern Europe. Besides being a restaurant, it is also a nice place to kick back a German lager. There are some big screen TVs, a pool table and free Wi-Fi. Also, they also have rooms available for 1100 baht/night. 150-680 baht.

- Souvlaki, 114/14 Silom Soi 4 (on the left hand side as you enter the soi, before Telephone Bar), +66-2-632-9967, [26]. 11AM-1AM daily. One of the few Greek restaurants in Bangkok, this serves some reasonably good food, including a somewhat odd shaped souvlaki and lots of ouzo. 150-250 baht.

- Sushiko, 9/11-12 Soi Thaniya (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom; on the right side of the soi if coming from Silom Road; right next to the 7-Eleven), +66-2-255-9505(-4). 11AM-midnight. A decent mid-range eatery right in the middle of the Japanese Thaniya neighborhood. The interior looks neat and modern and is in a typical Japanese style. There is no English sign outside. 120-700 baht.

Splurge
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The Chao Phraya riverside hotels (see Sleep) have the usual splurge restaurants with overpriced menus, although The Oriental's dinner buffet (2000+ baht) is acclaimed.

- Baan Khanitha & Gallery, 69 Sathorn Tai Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi and then a short taxi ride to Sathorn Rd), +66-2-675-4200(-1), [27]. 11AM-11PM daily. The entrance lined with thousands of fairy lights sets a nice atmosphere for what is inside. There is an excellent menu of traditional Thai food that is either served inside or out in a small garden courtyard. They also have an excellent wine cellar. It has been rated as one of the best Thai restaurants in Bangkok since 2009. 1000-1500 baht.

- Eat Me Restaurant, 1/6 Soi Phiphat 2 (BTS Chong Nonsi, 20 metres off Convent Rd), +66-2-238-0931, [28]. 3PM-1AM daily. Well known among visitors in Silom, Eat Me is kind-of the Bed Supperclub of the area. It is a cosmopolitan restaurant with a slick modern design. Their menu is eclectic with something for everyone. Expect some of the best and freshest fusion dishes of Bangkok. They also have an extensive wine list, which comes at a price though. 1500 baht.

- Naj, 42 Convent Rd, +66-2-632-2811(-3), [29]. 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5:30PM-11:30PM daily. An amazingly luxury restaurant that has a traditional Thai atmosphere and beautiful decoration. The house once belonged to an aristocratic family and dates back to the era of King Rama V. They have modern Thai and Thai-inspired dishes, which you can eat either inside or in the garden. You might want to pick a wine from their underground wine cellar. But of course, all this comes with a hefty price tag. 3500 baht.

- Zanotti, 1F, Saladaeng Colonnade Condominium Bldg, 21/2 Sala Daeng Rd (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom), +66-2-636-0002. Lunch 11:30AM-2PM, dinner 6PM-11:30PM. A very chique Italian restaurant. Its service and food is definitely good, but it is a tad expensive compared to what you get for it at other luxury restaurants. 2500 baht.

Drink
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There's more to Silom's nightlife than just Patpong, but can a visitor say they've been to Bangkok without at least a quick peek into the 'Pong?

Soi Patpong
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You might want to take a deep breath and down a few shots before heading into the insanity of Patpong (พัฒน์พงษ์, Phatphong), which in fact consists only of two small sois (Patpong 1 and Patpong 2). It's a short walk from BTS Sala Daeng station, deserted by day but jam-packed and overflowing in all directions by night. The throngs of middle age tourists shopping for sarongs and chopsticks just makes the sex shows going on in every open door seem that much more surreal.

Prepare to be harassed by touts armed with laminated 'menus' of acts you can order up. If you follow the touts, you might end up spending a ton of money on drinks to watch sad looking girls perform unhygienic acts with various garden-party accessories (lawn darts, ping pongs, etc etc) in one of the upstairs bars.

If you instead try one of the bars on the lower level, you can safely watch girls dancing on stage, but will occasionally be asked by one of the girls if you could buy her a drink. She will get upwards of 50% of the drink price as a bonus and will join you at your table for some conversation in exchange. As a rule of thumb, only trust bars that already have a fair number of customers; a drink should not cost more than 130 baht or so. Note that all the go-go bars in Patpong close by 1AM sharp!

It must be said that Patpong has changed remarkably over the years. While it used to be just a sleazy den of go-go bars, the last years a lot of visitors came to the area just to see what the fuss is about. It is not unusual to see families walk through the area with their children in the early evening. The locals found a way to make money from this new group of curious tourists: an enormous night market stocked with overpriced souvenirs that takes up the whole road and even spills over to the surrounding area (including Silom Road). See the Buy section for more information on the night market.

- King's Castle III, Soi Patpong 1 (BTS Sala Daeng, left side of Soi Patpong 1 if coming from Silom Road). 7PM-1AM daily. The place to go gawp at kathoeys (ladyboys) strutting their stuff. Prepare to tolerate a few invasions of personal space, but it's all in good fun. No surprises on the bill. Drinks 100 baht.

Soi Thaniya
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Soi Thaniya is Patpong for the Japanese; you might be excused for thinking you've ended up in Shinjuku when you see the plethora of signs in Japanese and kimono-clad girls beckoning you in. Most bars and clubs are off-limits to Westerners (except for the occasional British pub), but some of the restaurants aren't bad for a serve of Japanese food and some beer or sake to wash it down.

Silom Soi 2 and 4
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Sois 2 and 4 are the center of gay nightlife in Bangkok, although these days Soi 4 packs in a mixed crowd with plenty of bars that aren't gay by any stretch of the imagination. On weekends Soi 4 is cordoned off and a valid ID is (theoretically) required to enter. Across Surawong Road is Soi Twilight, Bangkok's largest gay go-go bar strip.

- Balcony Pub, 86-88 Silom Soi 4, +66-2-235-5891, [30]. 5:30PM-2AM daily. This is probably the most popular gay pub of Bangkok. They have a friendly staff and beer is reasonably priced.

- DJ Station, 8/6-8 Silom Soi 2 (BTS Sala Daeng, at the end of Silom Soi 2), +66-2-266-4029, [31]. 9PM-2AM daily. The most famous gay nightclub in Bangkok and busy almost every night, starting with a ladyboy show at 11:30PM. Jam-packed on weekends, do not enter if you're even slightly claustrophobic. Most drinks are 100 baht (be careful with spirits, the bartenders don't measure anything and tend to over-pour, sometimes badly), or buy a bottle of spirits from 1000 baht up and get free mixers. Spread over three levels, the ground floor has a big dancefloor, the second floor attracts "moneyboys" and their admirers (but these are by no means the majority), and the third floor is the place to escape if you can't move (if you can get there). Opening hours vary but usually closes between 2-3:30AM. Entry fee is 100-200 baht including 1-2 drinks.

- G.O.D. Club (Guys on Display), Siri-Orr Place Bldg, 80/18-21 Silom Soi 2/1 (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom, next to Nooddi restaurant in small alley between Silom Soi 2 and Soi Thaniya), +66-2-632-8033. 9PM-5AM daily. G.O.D. is short for Guys on Display, and that's basically what the whole place is about. It is an alternative to DJ Station and usually stays open until 5AM or later (though closing times vary). It attracts a crowd that wants to party till late in the night, as it only begins to get going between 1AM and 3AM. Entry fee is 300 baht, including 2 drinks.

- Home, Silom Soi 4 (BTS Sala Daeng). Home is another famed hip-hop bar spread over three floors, yet somewhat small. For a first time visit or once-in-a-while visitor, this place is a good find. However, if you go there too often, you may find their repertoire of songs somewhat repetitive. Cocktails are not remarkably special and prices are about average for the area. Comfy seats downstairs as well as on the third floor. Or take a seat outside, where tables make a good spot to peoplewatch.

- Tapas Room Club, 114/17-18 Silom Soi 4 (BTS Sala Daeng, on your left immediately as you enter the soi), +66-2-234-4737, [32]. 8PM-2AM daily. This is more of a groovy club than a Spanish snack joint, with two stylishly decorated floors and a peoplewatching terrace. 100 baht.

- Telephone Bar, Silom Soi 4, +66-2-234-3279, [33]. 7PM-2AM daily. Another one of Silom Soi 4's gay bars.

English pubs
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- Barbican, 9/4-5 Soi Thaniya (BTS Sala Daeng), +66-2-234-3590, [34]. 11:30AM-1AM daily. A favorite among Bangkok's expatriates, this British-style pub is actually in the middle of the Japanese neighborhood! Don't expect anything classy here, but its relaxed atmosphere does make for a nice visit. Besides beer, they also have simple dishes that can be ordered. Mains start for around 200 baht. In the early evenings they have "happy hour", so don't expect a seat at that time.

- Duke of Wellington, United Center Bldg, 323 Silom Rd (near the corner with Convent Rd), +66-2-234-2875, [35]. 10AM-1AM daily. For nice live bands and good service, try this authentic English-style pub. The beers and food are a little pricey by Thai standards, but the place at least has free WiFi. Happy hours on weekdays are between 5PM-8PM, while on Saturdays on Sundays they are between noon-8PM.

- Molly Malones Irish Pub (formerly Irish Xchange Pub), 1/5-6 Convent Rd (BTS Sala Daeng), +66-2-266-7160(-1), [36]. 9AM-1AM daily. This is quite a large Irish pub with two floors. Its large expat audience mostly sips Guinness, but there are also other beers on tap. Excellent daily lunch buffets and daily Happy Hour specials. Also an All-You-Can-Eat 'Sunday Roast' from noon to 7PM. Satellite TV sports and live music area are available.

- O'Reilly's Irish Pub, 62/1-4 Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng, exit 1), +66-2-632-7515(-19), [37]. 11AM-1AM daily. It is on the corner with Soi Thaniya, but actually still located along Silom Road itself. Live music starts around 9PM. At Tuesdays and Thursdays, Johnny Deschamps, a kind of Thai Frank Sinatra performs, while Wednesdays are taken by the band Vertigo with their blues, pop and soul sound.

Beer gardens and microbreweries
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- Tawandang Microbrewery (Rong Beer Yereman, German Beer Hall), 462/61 Rama III Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi, then take a taxi 5 km down Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road; the beer hall can be found right at the corner with Rama III Road), +66-2-678-1114(-6), [38]. 5PM-1AM daily. Tawandang is a very popular German microbrewery, mostly among upper-middle class Thais. It also has good food at reasonable prices, and a good stage show with many acts and fun music. It can be a hard to find, but is well worth the trip. Most taxis will know this place, just ask for the "Rong Beer Yereman" (German Beer Hall) and they should understand. Also only a few stops on the new BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) from Chong Nonsi (ask fellow passengers where to get off). Reservations recommended, especially on weekends.

Superhip
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Note that fairly strictly applied dress codes apply to all of the following, so no flip-flops, shorts or sleeveless shirts.

- Bamboo Bar, Oriental Hotel, 48 Oriental Rd (BTS Saphan Taksin, Oriental pier), +66-2-659-9000, [39]. F-Sa 11AM-2AM, Su-Th 11AM-1AM. Jazz lovers will want to stop by the Oriental's famous bar, which is surprisingly small and intimate, for classy colonial surroundings, live music and a Cuban cigar. Needless to say, at 250 baht a Singha here will be the most expensive beer you'll find in Bangkok. Dress code applies: no shorts, sleeveless shirts, slippers or sandals.

- Hu'u, 1F, Ascott Sathorn, 187 Sathorn Tai Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi, cross the pedestrian bridge and turn right), +66-2-676-6677. 5PM-1AM daily. The latest branch of this ultra-chic superhip bar-restaurant from Bali, offers Bangkok's tallest bottle rack and a 30-page menu of bizarrely named but well made cocktails. This is a place where the socialites of Bangkok make themselves be seen. Expensive at over 200 baht for most drinks.

- Sirocco and Sky Bar (The Dome), 63F, State Tower, 1055/111 Silom Rd (BTS Saphan Taksin, Sathorn (Taksin) pier), +66-2-624-9576, [40]. 6PM-1AM daily. The world's tallest rooftop bar/restaurant, a few meters higher up than Vertigo — but due to its slightly off-center location, the views are arguably not quite as stunning. This is in fact a complex of a number of expensive restaurants, including the Mediterranean-flavored Sirocco, but the cheapest option for just a drink is the fully outdoor Sky Bar, complete with a live jazz band most nights. Prices are steep, one beer is a whopping 350+ baht, while cocktails go for 450+ baht.

- V9, 37F, Sofitel Hotel Bldg, 188 Silom Rd (BTS Surasak), +66-2-238-1991, [41]. 5PM-2AM daily. This wine bar on the 37th floor gives an excellent view over the Silom business district. It looks like being in a wine cellar and on offer are a fantastic selection of wines (either by glass or bottle). Prices cheaper than you might expect, there are good bottles for around 1200 baht, which is cheaper than elsewhere around Silom. Music is hip and there's a good service. It also functions as a restaurant serving tapas-style small dishes of fusion meals.

- Vertigo and Moon Bar, 61F, Banyan Tree Hotel Bldg, Sathorn Tai Rd (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Lumphini), +66-2-679-1200, [42]. 5:30PM-1AM (weather permitting). This aptly-named named bar and restaurant is actually located outside on the roof (61 stories high), giving you absolutely staggering views of Bangkok at night. Drinks at the bar are fairly expensive (beer: 240 baht, cocktails: 300 baht, plus 10 percent service charge), but it's definitely worth the experience. Dinner at the restaurant, on the other hand, is not worth it — a course of pretentious European food will set you back around 4000 baht/head.

Sleep
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:

Budget

Under 1000 baht

Mid-range

1000 baht to 2500 baht

Splurge

Over 2500 baht

There are a number of hotels in the Silom area, although the cheaper ones tend to be the kind that rents rooms by the hour.

Budget
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Ngam Duphli
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Slightly off from Silom, but still much much closer than Khao San Road is Ngam Duphli Road, a small ghetto of cheap guest houses. It's fair to say that this neighborhood has been going downhill, but it's still your best bet for cheap accommodation in the area.

- Malaysia Hotel, 54 Soi Ngam Duphli (MRT Lumphini), +66-2-679-7127(-36), [43]. The Malaysia Hotel used to be an institution in Bangkok; it was Bangkok's most famous budget accommodation in the whole of Bangkok. Those days are long long gone, now it turned into a seedy gay pick-up hostel with massage parlor. Their 119 rooms are decent value though, as they are fairly large and have air-conditioning, hot-water bathrooms, Internet access and a swimming pool. 800-1500 baht.

- Sala Thai Daily Mansion, 15 Soi Saphan Khu (MRT Lumphini; off Soi Sri Bamphen), +66-2-287-1436. Probably the best guest house in the Soi Ngam Duphli area with 15 small, but clean, basic rooms. It is at the end of a very quiet soi. Rooms are private, but toilets and hot-water shower sare shared. Nice rooftop terrace too. 300-600 baht.

Elsewhere
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- HQ Hostel Bangkok, 5/3-4 Phiphat Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi, next to Bangkok Bank Headquarters), +66-2-233-1598, [44]. HQ Hostel Bangkok is a boutique accommodation for backpackers and budget travelers ideally located in the middle of Silom. It is within walking distance of all major attractions and the transport network. Rooms include air-conditioning, and there are free WiFi and internet computers available. 380 baht.

- Lub d Bangkok, 4 Decho Rd (MRT Sam Yan, then quite a walk through Si Phraya Rd), +66-2-634-7999‎, [45]. This hostel is designed by famous hotel designers. It offers 8-bed dormitories, ladies-only dormitories, private rooms for 1-2 people and normal double bed hotel rooms with a private bathroom. All rooms are clean, comfortable and have air conditioning. There's a TV room, free WiFi and free use of the nine internet terminals and luggage storage. There are do-it-yourself laundry services for around 60 baht. The colorful bar offers breakfast, snacks and beverages until midnight (2 beers for 100 baht). Booking is cheaper if done via the web compared to just walking in. 400-700 baht.

- Take a Nap, 920-926 Rama IV Rd (MRT Sam Yan, opposite Thai Red Cross Society), +66-2-637-0015, [46]. A clean and comfortable hostel or budget hotel. It lies along Rama IV Road, which can be noisy at night due to the massive amounts of traffic. It is not a party hostel, so stay quiet at night. Rooms have a modern bathroom with hot showers. Free WiFi and free use of two internet terminals is offered, as well as do-it-yourself laundry services (200 baht) and luggage storage. 800 baht.

Mid-range
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- Bossotel Inn, 55/8-14 Charoen Krung Soi 42/1 (BTS Saphan Taksin or Sathorn (Taksin) pier), +66-2-630-6120, [47]. In a rather quiet dead-end street, that ends at the Shangri-la Hotel, it is close to Silom Rd, the river, and various public transport networks. Rooms are nice and clean, and feature air-conditioning and a fridge. The hotel has a pool and a spa, and prices include breakfast. 1400-2000 baht.

- De Arni Bangkok, 68 Surawong Road (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Sam Yan), +66-2-235-7373, [48]. The rooms offers air-conditioning, an Internet connection, mini-bar, fridge and safe. Some of its amenities include dry cleaning, laundry services and ample parking spaces. There is also a restaurant. 1280-3840 baht.

- LUXX, 6/11 Decho Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi), +66-2-635-8800, [49]. This boutique hotel offers the holistic concept with its 13 individually designed rooms and suites. Rooms are designed as studio units equipped with cable television, coffee and tea making facilities and mini bar. Suites are structured as one bedroom units with stylish outdoor views, LCD-television, personalized DVD players, mini-kitchen and sofa corners. All rooms have WiFi, and bathrooms with hot and cold water. 1800-3200 baht.

- Mandarin Plaza Hotel, 178 Surawong Road (BTS Chong Nonsi), +66-2-235-1760(-79), [50]. The Mandarin Plaza Hotel is a mid-range Bangkok accommodation. This three-star hotel has 175 air-conditioned rooms, all of which have cable television, refrigerator and mini-bar. It has a restaurant named Bua Luang that serves authentic Thai cuisine. 1300-2000 baht.

- Montien Hotel, 54 Surawong Rd (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Sam Yan), +66-2-233-7060(-9), [51]. Built at the same time as the Dusit Thani Hotel and looks like it. Some rooms offer a clear view (and muffled noise) of Patpong, immediately opposite, a fact which seems to account for much of the clientele. While in a nice traditional style, the rooms are somewhat overpriced though. 3000-4800 baht.

- Narai Hotel, 222 Silom Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi), +66-2-237-0100, [52]. Great value for money, as the rooms are luxury with flat-screen televisions, free WiFi, air-conditioning and nice views over the city. Services include a huge breakfast as well as room service. All of this for a cheaper price than other hotels in the area. 1800-3600 baht.

- Silom Avenue Inn, 284/11-13 Silom Soi 22/1 (BTS Chong Nonsi; inside a small soi from the main road), +66-2-2-238-4680(-7), [53]. Silom Avenue Inn is a small but relatively luxury hotel. It looks stylish, and while it is a budget hotel, it is comfortable and its spacious rooms are a good value. 1000-1500 baht.

- Silom City Hotel, 72 Soi Prachum (BTS Surasak), +66-2-635-6211, [54]. The 70 guest rooms have lots of amenities, including air-conditioning, WiFi, a personal safe, a music-system, colour TV, fridge and minibar. Breakfast is included. 1500-3200 baht.

- Silom Village Inn, 286/1 Silom Rd (BTS Surasak), +66-2-635-6810(-6), [55]. This hotel is located inside the Silom Village Trade Center. It is convenient for visitors on a budget. No breakfast or WiFi included and in some rooms the smell is actually quite nasty. 1100-3500 baht.

Splurge
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The Bang Rak area at the Chao Phraya river has some of the world's best hotels, including Mandarin Oriental and Shangri-La (another contender for this title is The Peninsula, right at the other side of the river in Thonburi). Splurge hotels can be found all along Silom Road and Sathorn Road, and many of them cater to business visitors.

- Banyan Tree, 21/100 Sathorn Tai Rd (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Lumphini), +66-2-679-1200, [56]. A five-star spa resort in the middle of the city, worth visiting even if only for the Vertigo and Moon Bar up top. It has a large reputation for being one of the most luxurious hotels in Bangkok. 3900-27,000 baht.

- Dusit Thani Hotel (โรงแรมดุสิตธานี), 946 Rama IV Rd (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom, exit 2), +66-2-200-9000, [57]. One of Bangkok's grand old hotels with an excellent location in Silom. The 21-story tower with a distinctive golden spike was Bangkok's tallest when opened in 1968, and has aged gracefully with frequent restorations. 6100-28,600 baht.

- Holiday Inn, 981 Silom Rd (BTS Surasak), +66-2-238-4300, [58]. Another luxury hotel, the hotel consists of rooms in two towers. The rooms in the first tower are better than in the second tower. It has a big lobby room and spacious rooms with flat-screen TVs. 3000-4500 baht.

- Lebua at State Tower (formerly Meritus Suites), State Tower, 1055/111 Silom Road (BTS Saphan Taksin or Sathorn (Taksin) pier), +66-2-624-9999, [59]. This five-star, all-suite luxury accommodation gives you a glimpse of the most dramatic views of Bangkok. Rooms range from large (66 sq. m.) to huge (266 sq. m.). The Lebua Tower Club suites provide free in-room movies on demand, access to the Tower Club lounge (free drinks and snacks) and a free mini-bar (sodas only). This hotel also has free WiFi. The Sky Bar, characterized by the spectacular Dome rooftop, is the world's highest outdoor bar/restaurant, overlooking a panoramic view of Bangkok and the Chao Phraya River. US$109-466.

- Mandarin Oriental (The Oriental), 48 Oriental Rd (BTS Saphan Taksin or Oriental pier), +66-2-659-9000, [60]. Ranked highly amongst the finest hotels in the world, it is known particularly for its superlative service. Prices are consequently on the steep side; even the cheapest online rates are rarely below US$300 a night. Sumptuously decorated in old-school Colonial style. The hotel is on the east side of the river with Oriental pier, its own Express Boat stop. US$275-4500.

- Pan Pacific Hotel, 952 Rama IV Road (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom), +66-2-632-9000, [61]. For the price it costs, you get an incredible five-star hotel. The rooms are incredibly luxury with all necessary amenities and the service is better than some of the more expensive hotels. Breakfast is large and varied. Also, there's a gym on the 24th floor. 3400-27,000 baht.

- Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside, 2074 Charoen Krung Rd (Wat Rajsingkorn pier), +66-2-688-1000, [62]. This is a good luxury hotel with great views over the river and a friendly staff. A downer is its slightly off location, but it is ride beside the express boat pier and there is a free shuttle boat to the Skytrain. 6200-22,000 baht.

- Royal Orchid Sheraton, 2 Charoen Krung Soi 30 (Si Phraya pier), +66-2-266-0123, [63]. This is a luxury hotel at the banks of the mighty Chao Phraya River. It is close to River City shopping mall and the express boat. US$130-250.

- Shangri-La, 89 Soi Wat Suan Phlu (BTS Saphan Taksin or Sathorn (Taksin) pier), +66-2-236-7777, [64]. Definitely also a five-star hotel, but not quite as superlative as The Oriental or The Peninsula (in Thonburi). The Shangri-La partly makes up for it with its excellent location next to both the Skytrain and the express boat. 5100-5700 baht.

- Sofitel, 188 Silom Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi), +66-2-238-1991, [65]. This 38-story property is on the lower reaches of Silom Road. Rooms have a safe deposit box, minibar, satellite/cable TV and in-room high-speed internet with a fantastic view of Bangkok from ceiling to floor window. The V9 wine bar inside the hotel is a great visit. 3600-8600 baht.

- Tarntawan Place, 119/5-10 Surawong Rd (BTS Sala Daeng), +66-2-238-2620, [66]. Only 150 metres from Soi Patpong 1, this luxury hotel is well worth it. The 24-hour breakfast service caters to those who'd like to sleep through the morning after a night of partying. 2700-4500 baht.

- Tawana Bangkok, 80 Surawong Rd (BTS Sala Daeng), +66-2-236-3738, [67]. This hotel has an ideal location, right in the middle of all the action, but without the noise. It is well-maintained and the staff is friendly and helpful. Interesting features are the outside swimming pool and fitness center. The only downer is that they charge extra for WiFi access. 2500-4500 baht.

- Triple Two Hotel, 222 Silom Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi), +66-2-627-2222, [68]. An innovative and unique boutique hotel with 75 luxury rooms providing high quality, individual service in a relaxed atmosphere. They cater to both leisure and business travelers (with conference rooms). 2500-5800 baht.

Contact
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Finding WiFi in Silom is just as easy as finding a girl in Patpong. Nearly every hotel has free WiFi for their customers (except, perversely, some of the more expensive ones, where you have to pay extra), or available for everyone in the lobby. Many of them also have Internet terminals available. If you're just visiting, many cafes and restaurants offer free WiFi, including the Duke Of Wellington and other English pubs.

Cope
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Hospitals
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- Bangkok Christian Hospital (โรงพยาบาลกรุงเทพคริสเตียน), 124 Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng), +66-2-235-1000, [69]. Well-established hospital and dental clinic next to Patpong. Multiple languages spoken.

- BNH Hospital, 9/1 Convent Rd (BTS Sala Daeng), +66-2-686-2700, [70]. International standards hospital and dental clinic in the heart of the Silom CBD. Multiple languages spoken.

- King Chulalongkorn Memorial Hospital (โรงพยาบาลจุฬาลงกรณ์ สภากาชาดไทย), 1873 Rama IV Rd (MRT Si Lom), +66-2-256-4000, [71]. Stretching the border of Siam Square and Silom, Bangkok's top medical school has outpatient clinics, but is not well-suited for travelers.

- Thai Red Cross Anonymous Clinic, 104 Ratchadamri Road (BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom, at the Ratchadamri and Sarasin Rd intersection), +66-2-252-2568(-9), [72]. Established in 1991, this was Asia's first voluntary counselling and testing (VCT) centre for HIV. Now you can do anonymous HIV, STD, CD4 and viral load testing. English spoken.

Get out
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- If you like the go-go bar scene at Patpong, you might want to check out Soi Cowboy and Nana Entertainment Plaza in Sukhumvit, or the enormous "massage parlors" of Ratchadaphisek.

- The superhip nightlife also continues at Sukhumvit with trendy clubs and restaurants like Bed Supperclub and Long Table.

- River City, just over the edge in Yaowarat and Phahurat, is just like the expensive antique stores in Bang Rak. That district also has similar 19th century colonial-style buildings.

District Rattanakosin Table of Contents

• Understand

History

Orientation

• Get in

By boat

By bus

• See

Grand Palace

Wat Phra Kaew

The palace buildings

Wat Pho

Other temples

Palaces

Museums

Art galleries

Parks

Monuments

• Do

• Learn

• Buy

Markets

Amulet markets

Ban bat

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
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History
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The Rattanakosin-era was the fourth Thai Kingdom, after the Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and Thonburi Kingdoms that preceded it. When the powerful Ayutthaya Kingdom was destroyed and burnt down by Burmese armies in 1767, a small period of chaos and Burmese occupation ensued the lands of Siam. The resistance was led by General Taksin, a capable military leader that defeated the Burmese within one year and established the new Siamese capital in Thonburi, right across the Chao Phraya river from Rattanakosin. Instead of just conquering back Siam, he also took hold of Western Cambodia, almost the whole of the Malay Peninsula, Lanna (modern Far Northern Thailand) and Laos.

Despite these successes, in 1779 King Taksin had proclaimed himself a sotapanna (or divine figure), striking against the powerful Buddhist monkhood. The state was in economic turmoil, with rampant corruption and famine. Many Chinese factions were discontent with the current leadership and King Taksin tried to restore order by harsh punishments and purges. A popular general under King Taksin was General Phraya Chakri, who had successfully managed the invasion of Cambodia. While he was away, a rebellion controlled Thonburi, forcing King Taksin to step down. King Taksin was secretly executed. When Phraya Chakri came back from Cambodia, he was offered the throne, becoming King Rama I, the first King of the Chakri dynasty and starting the Rattanakosin-era.

One of his first actions was to move the capital across the river, from Thonburi to Rattanakosin. According to him, Rattanakosin had a more strategic location, as he turned it into an artificial island with the the Chao Phraya river in the west and man-made canals in the east. Chinese merchants occupied the area at that time, but they were moved outside of the new city walls to the area now known as Yaowarat. King Rama I restored the social and political system of the Ayutthaya period, even imitating that city's layout and architecture in Rattanakosin — including the Grand Palace, which building plan closely resembled that of the Grand Palace in Ayutthaya. Even the bricks from the ruins in Ayutthaya were moved downstream to be incorporated into the new capital's grand scheme.

Orientation
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As the district has been the result of careful 18th-century urban planning, orientation in Rattanakosin is fairly straightforward. Like Ayutthaya, the focal point of the area is Sanam Luang, a wide open royal field and the site of many ceremonies and festivals associated with the royal family. Surrounding this field are Rattanakosin's prime sights, the most important of which is the Grand Palace. Just like in Ayutthaya, part of its compound is dedicated to a royal temple, Wat Phra Kaew, the most sacred temple of Thailand home to the Emerald Buddha. Most people hop on the express boat and spend a full day taking in these shimmering beauties. Walking between the sights is a blast, and can be easily done if you carry a bottle of water for the occasional cool-off.

Khao San Road is in any way an integral part of Rattanakosin, but is separately covered as it turned into a laid-back hippy-style party area that is quite different from the grandeur of Rattanakosin. Walking from Khao San Road to the Grand Palace takes about 25 minutes, if you don't take in any stops on the way.

- Bangkok Tourist Information Office, 17/1 Phra Athit Rd (under the Pinklao Bridge), +66-2-225-7612(-4), [1]. It's a good idea to stop by the tourist office for some maps of the city. You can also get hotel and dining addresses here or ask any other questions you may have.

Get in
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Getting into Rattanakosin is quite a hassle, as the Skytrain and metro systems do not cover the area (not yet, at least). For time being, your options are to either take a taxi, or use the boats:

By boat
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The best way to get in Rattanakosin is by Chao Phraya Express Boat. Besides a relatively quick and convenient way of travel, it is also a much more enjoyable than looking at cars stuck in traffic while inhaling exhaust gases. The wind from the river is a relaxed way to cool down from tropical temperatures, too.

If you're coming from downtown, you can take the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station and transfer onto the express boat. A single trip from Saphan Taksin to Tha Chang (near the Grand Palace) takes about 30 minutes and costs 13 baht. Other notable stops include Tha Tien (for Wat Pho), Phra Athit (for Khao San Road) and Thewet (for Dusit). It is best to take the orange flag boats, as yellow flag boats miss out all all stops except Tha Tien.

From Tha Tien (Wat Pho), you can take a ferry shuttle to Wat Arun, across the river at the Thonburi side. Ferries leave every 10 minutes for just 3 baht. As many students from the universities live across the river in Thonburi, there are plenty of other commuter ferries that cross the river. Tha Chang has ferries to Wat Rakung and Wang Lang (Siriraj), Tha Phra Chan has ferries to Wang Lang (Siriraj), Thonburi Railway and Phra Pin Klao Bridge, and Thewet has a ferry to Wat Kharubodj.

Eastern Rattanakosin (roughly the area around the Golden Mount) is served by the Golden Mount Line of the Saen Saep Express Boat service. If you happen to be in that area, using the canal boat is the quickest way to get to Siam Square, Sukhumvit and Ramkhamhaeng. The stop closest to the Golden Mount is Panfa Leelard, from which there are direct services to Pratunam pier. There you could switch onto the NIDA Line, that runs from Pratunam all the way northeast to Wat Sriboonreung in Ramkhamhaeng. A single trip from Panfa Leelard to Pratunam takes about 20 minutes and costs 12 baht. On the trip, you will pass the stops Talad Bobae (for the garment market of the same name), Sapan Charoenpol, Baan Krua Nua (for Jim Thompson's House), Sapan Hua Chang (for Siam Square) and Pratunam (for Pratunam and Ratchaprasong).

By bus
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While not as chaotic as downtown, bus travel here is still not a good idea. However, as other good public transport options are limited, bus travel can be the fastest way of travel from downtown (though this is heavily depending on traffic). The road around Sanam Luang is one of the city's bus hubs, but as it is a circular road, it is quite hard to find out where the bus is going. It is a better idea to get on the bus in front of Tha Chang pier (near the Grand Palace).

Ordinary bus 47 starts at Tha Tien pier (near Wat Pho) and then passes Tha Chang pier, Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road), Lan Luang Road, Chakkaphatdi Phong Road, Bamrung Muang Road and finally reaches MBK Center (for Siam Square). It then continues its way along Phaya Thai Road and Rama IV Road before reaching the intersection with Silom Road.

Another option is ordinary and air-conditioned bus 25, which starts at Tha Chang and then continues to Charoen Krung Road. In opposite direction it will skip Charoen Krung Road and take Yaowarat Road instead. Then it continues its way along Rama IV Road passing Hualamphong Train Station, Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm and the intersection with Silom Road. Then it heads north through Ratchadamri Road to Ratchaprasong intersection (for Siam Square), from which is heads all the way southeast along Phloen Chit Road and Sukhumvit Road.

See
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A trip to Bangkok is not complete without a visit to some of Rattanakosin's prime sights. Bangkok counts hundreds of Buddhist temples, known in Thai as "wats", with the most important ones in Rattanakosin. Temples are an essential part of the daily life of most Thais. Most of them have impressive architecture and much devotion has been given to the decoration. Every temple is unique — some of them are beautifully decorated with thousands of colored glass pieces, while others portray massive Buddha statues of pure gold.

You could spend weeks visiting temples in Bangkok, but as most visitors only spend a couple of days in the city, it is important to choose the ones that are especially beautiful, sacred and culturally significant. The Grand Palace is not just a palace, but also includes Wat Phra Kaew, the most sacred temple of Thailand. It is a must-see for every visitor of the city, and the palace grounds are so large that you have to spend at least a full morning walking through the complex. Beside the Grand Palace, most travelers visit Wat Pho, probably the largest reclining Buddha statue in the world, and Wat Arun, a large prang that is beautifully decorated with blue and white ceramics (it is technically at the Thonburi side of the river, but is easily visited using the ferry from Tha Tien pier). These top three attractions are conveniently clustered right next to each other. Other prominent temples are Wat Saket and the Golden Mount, built at an artificial hill with a nice view over the city, and Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing at the eastern side of Rattanakosin. Wat Ratchanadda, Wat Thepthidaram, Wat Intharawihan, Wat Ratchabophit and Wat Ratchapradit could be considered off the beaten path and give a more authentic experience.

Bear in mind that for all temples you must be dressed appropriately (no shorts, no flipflops, no sleeveless shirts) or risk being denied entry, although some places will offer rental parachute pants for a small (refundable) deposit. The temples play an important role in Buddhist traditions. Monks wake up early in the morning and perform the daily alms ritual between 5AM and 7AM (called tak bat ตักบาตร). Monks line up in front of the temple accepting donations from the people, most of them food and daily necessities such as rice, soap, candles, soda cans and even toilet paper. By giving, Buddhists believe that these good deeds will bring luck later in life or in the life beyond this one. The best temple to experience the alms ceremony is Wat Benchamabophit in Dusit. At one of the Buddhist markets, you can buy a bucket filled with products to give to the monks (see Buy).

Whether you walk or take a tuk-tuk, don't listen to anyone telling you the temples are closed for a "Buddhist holiday", that they're only open in the afternoon because the monks are praying, or anything else along those lines. While it's true that opening times of temples and palaces can vary due to ceremonies and state occasions, you should always check it out yourself. These seemingly "helpful pedestrians" are in fact scammers, trying to get you into a full-day tuk-tuk ride around the city, where they'll try to trick you into buying gems, souvenirs and other junk.

It's worth giving the Grand Palace and Wat Pho together a full day since the heat and glare are very wearing and there is a lot to take in.

Grand Palace
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Bangkok's most popular tourist attraction, the Grand Palace (พระบรมมหาราชวัง Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang) [2] is the former residence of the King and is built adjacent to, and more or less integrated with Wat Phra Kaew (also known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha). The palace was originally built together with the establishment of Bangkok by King Rama I and has been expanded ever since. It covers a wide range of architectural styles, ranging from a pure Ayutthayan style of the temples to a blend of Thai and Western for later structures. While the king no longer lives here, a large part of the complex is used for royal residences and ceremonies and is off-limits to tourists.

Combined entry is a steep 350 baht, plus an optional 200 baht for a two-hour audio guide; Thais get in for free. Your ticket includes entry into the Dusit Palace in Dusit (valid for seven days). The Grand Palace is open every day from 8:30AM to 4:30PM, with the last tickets sold at 3:30PM; it cannot be said enough, do not believe any scammers who attempt to convince you otherwise. It is best to attend the Grand Palace during weekdays, as some throne halls are closed in the weekends for ceremonial purposes. Be aware that a strict dress code applies for visitors to the palace. Ladies must cover their upper arms and legs down to the thigh, while men must wear long trousers and at least a t-shirt. Sarongs can be borrowed for free at the entrance, but you must leave a deposit. On some holidays the dressing room may be closed, in which case you can rent clothes across the street for a fee. Thais seem to follow even tighter dressing regulations, such as wearing black during royal funeral ceremonies, but they understand it when foreigners do not follow those.

It can get very crowded (and hot) once the tour buses start to roll in, so getting an early start might be a good idea! There are free English tours four times a day, just look for the sign after you pass the ticket gate. The palace grounds can easily be explored on your own though. Visitors are corralled along a set route. First you'll walk through Wat Phra Kaew with the Grand Palace itself coming right after.

Wat Phra Kaew
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Wat Phra Kaew (วัดพระแก้ว), formally Wat Phra Si Rattana Satsadaram (วัดพระศรีรัตนศาสดารามหรือวัดพระแก้ว), is the most sacred Buddhist temple of Thailand. While construction of the temple was completed in 1784, it has a sanitized appearance as if it was built only yesterday. The temple houses a diminutive jade statue, the Emerald Buddha, of uncertain but long provenance and revered as the symbol of the Thai state. According to the legend, it was created in India in 43 BC after which it was taken to Sri Lanka, Cambodia and eventually Siam. Art historians, however, describe the statue as belonging to the Chiang Saen style of the 15th century, concluding it must have originally come from Lanna (current Northern Thailand). It was taken to Luang Prabang in the current state of Laos in 1552, and moved to Vientiane twelve years later. In 1779, in the Thonburi period, General Chao Phraya Chakri captured Vientiane and returned the Emerald Buddha to Siam. When he was crowned as King Rama I, he moved the Emerald Buddha to its current location in Rattanakosin. Visitors line up around the building for a chance to walk by the Emerald Buddha with offerings of lilies and incense. You must take off your shoes before entering the bot, and taking pictures inside is not allowed. Also show respect by sitting with your feet pointing away from the Buddha. The Buddha's clothing is changed three times a year depending on the season; you can see the other outfits in the Pavilion of Regalia, Royal Decorations and Thai Coins after the tour.

Continuing the tour, the temple actually consists of a series of courtyards full of chedis and buildings all in different sizes and colors. Some buildings are in gold, some are decorated with broken porcelain and there are smaller wats containing Buddhas of various poses and sizes. Also check out the enormous mural of the Ramayana that decorates the exterior wall. Other interesting structures include the group of eight prang towers, the Sri-Lankan style Phra Si Rattana Chedi, a model of Angkor Wat, the Royal Pantheon, among others.

The palace buildings
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Leaving Wat Phra Kaew, on the right you'll see a Chinese gate that is adorned with beautiful small porcelain pieces. Move on and you'll be guided past the beautiful palace buildings. The first you'll see is the Phra Maha Montien complex and its accompanying buildings. This has been the residence of Siam's kings before King Rama V decided to move to the Chitralada Palace in Dusit. The Amarin Winichai Hall (พระที่นั่งอมรินทรวินิจฉัย), the building's main audience hall, can be accessed by visitors on weekdays. It was used as an audience hall welcoming foreign guests. Inside is the boat-shaped Busabok, an open sided throne topped with a spired roof. Currently it is often used for ceremonies, such as the King's annual birthday speech.

Next up is the Chakri Maha Prasat Hall (พระที่นั่งจักรีมหาปราสาท), a building constructed in the reign of King Rama V in 1876. It was used for receiving royal guests who were monarchs or heads of state. It is built in a distinctively European neo-classical style, but with a Thai roof somewhat incongruously plopped on top. This remarkable design is the result of a dispute between King Rama V and other members of the royal family. King Rama V wanted to give the building an entirely European look, while the other members wanted the building to have distinctively Siamese spires. While unusual, it is still one of the most distinctive and memorable palace buildings in the complex. It was formerly used as the elephant stables; the bronze elephants are supposed to be a reminder of that. The ashes of the kings of the Chakri dynasty are housed inside. At weekdays you can enter the building for the weapons museum. At noon, in front of the building is where the changing the guard ceremony ends. The guards don't mind when you take pictures with them, just don't take it too far and stay respectful. They will never move no matter what happens.

The final large structure is the Dusit Maha Prasat Hall (พระที่นั่งดุสิตมหาปราสาท). It is a typical Thai building constructed by King Rama I in 1790. Formerly named the Inthraphisek Maha Prasat Hall, this the first throne hall that has been constructed within the Grand Palace. When a king, queen or other important member of the royal family dies, this palace is used for the lying-in-state; the body is kept here while waiting for an auspicious date for cremation. The inside is only opened on weekdays. It houses the Phra Ratcha Banlang Pradap Muk, a wooden throne beautifully decorated with mother-of-pearl inlaid work. The beautiful Aphorn Phimok Prasat Pavilion next to the building served as the king's mounting platform and as a changing room for royal processions.

Next to the hall is a small restaurant where you can fresh up with a drink or have something to eat. If you're not thirsty or hungry, continue your way to the Wat Phra Kaew Museum. Yes, we haven't had enough of Wat Phra Kaew just yet! This museum was designed in the reign of King Rama V as the Royal Mint. Now it shows a treasure of artifacts that were rescued from the restoration of the Grand Palace in the 1980s. On the ground floor you can find the bones of the white elephants of former kings. More artifacts can be found upstairs, the most interesting being the original costumes of the Emerald Buddha. Also upstairs are the two scale models of the complex. The first one shows the Grand Palace as initially built, while the other shows its current design.

After leaving the palace buildings, when the compound's entry gate is in sight, turn right, double back past the ticket counters and pay a visit to the Pavilion of Regalia, Royal Decorations and Thai Coins. Entry is free with your ticket. Not only is it air-conditioned, but it houses an impressive array of gold jewelry, weaponry and coins, and gives some insight into the evolution of the dynasty and its elaborate royal ceremonies. A highlight are the seasonal "clothes" of the Emerald Buddha, ranging from a warm winter wrap to a minimalistic ensemble for summer.

Wat Pho
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Wat Pho (วัดโพธิ์, +66-2-226-0335, [3]), popularly known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, is the largest temple of Bangkok, and probably the oldest too, as it predates the founding of the capital by about 200 years. Most foreign tourists come for the much-needed picture of themselves with the enormous Reclining Buddha (พระพุทธไสยาสน์ Phra Buddhasaiyas); it is the largest reclining Buddha image in Thailand, and possibly the largest in the whole world. The list of records doesn't end there; Wat Pho is home to more than one thousand Buddha images, more than any other temple in the country. The temple as it appears now comes from the late 18th-century, right after the founding of Rattanakosin, when King Rama I almost completely rebuilt the complex. He renamed the temple Wat Phra Chetuphon (วัดพระเชตุพน), as Thais still call it today, but the new name never really caught on in the West. Another major revamp took place in 1832, when in the reign of King Rama III new chapels were added and walls and pillars were decorated with inscriptions on traditional medicine. Wat Pho is often cited as Thailand's first university, as even before the temple's founding, the site was a center of education for traditional Thai medicine.

The Wat Pho complex is cut in two walled compounds with Soi Chetuphon separating them. The southern compound, Tukgawee, is barely visited as it is a working Buddhist monastery with monks residing there. The northern compound can be divided into an eastern courtyard and a western courtyard. Busloads of tourists get in using the north entrance at Thai Wang Road, stand in line to get a quick peek of the Reclining Buddha, and head off. That's a mistake. Better take the south entrance at Soi Chetuphon, which actually is the main entrance. From there you can start exploring the complex while missing out on most of the tourist crowds. The admission fee is 50 baht, and it is open from 8AM till 5PM. You can arrange an English-speaking personal guide provides you with interesting information of the complex. It costs around 200-400 baht, depending on the size of your group (and your negotiation skills).

The main entrance is one of the 16 gates that surround the walled compound. These entrances are guarded by enormous Chinese stone giants. Most of these giants are "farang", Westerners that wear wide-brimmed hats and hold a sword. I bet you find these Westerners scarier than the guardian demons protecting Wat Phra Kaew! When Thai ships exported rice to China, they brought these statues back to compensate for the loss of weight. The entrance brings you into the eastern courtyard, which is dominated by the bot. To get to it, take a right from the entrance and then take a left into the bot. There are a total of 91 prangs and chedis that surround the bot. The lions at the entrance of the bot are Burmese in design. On top of the altar of the bot is a Buddha image in Ayutthayan style.

There's plenty of other sights and activities inside the large temple complex; above all, try a massage (as described in the Do section) or sign up for a five-day course in the massage school at the back (see in the Learn section).

In the western courtyard, you'll quickly stumble upon the Reclining Buddha — gold plated, 46 metres long, 15 metres high, with inlaid mother of pearl soles. It is an impressive sight and definitely one you must have seen on your trip. On the back side of the statue, you can buy a bag of 50-satang coins and plunk them one by one into the row of copper pots for good luck.

Other temples
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- Wat Arun (วัดอรุณ), 34 Arun-Amarin Rd, Bangkok Yai, Thonburi (take the cross-river ferry from Tien pier), [4]. 7:30AM-5:30PM daily. Wat Arun, often called the Temple of Dawn, is located on the other side of the Chao Phraya river in Thonburi, you can find more information in that district article. It can most easily be accessed using the three-baht ferry from Tha Tien pier at the Rattanakosin side of the river (near Wat Pho). The temple is a distinctive large prang intricately inlaid with Chinese white broken porcelain. At 88 meters in height, it was also the tallest structure in Bangkok until the advent of the modern skyscraper. It is one of Bangkok's best known landmarks and a must-visit. 50 baht.

- Wat Intharawihan (วัดอินทรวิหาร), 114 Wisut Kasat Rd (from Khao San Road, walk 1 km north along Samsen Road, then turn right at Samsen Soi 10 after the Wisut Kasat Road junction), +66-2-628-5552. 8:30AM-8PM daily. This temple is known for the so-called Standing Buddha or Big Buddha (Luang Pho To), a 32-meter-tall golden Buddha image. The whole statue is covered with 24,000 golden mosaics from Italy. The topknot of the Buddha image contains a relic of Lord Buddha brought from Sri Lanka. The temple is worth a visit just for the sake of photographing the Buddha. However, it's worth mentioning that this temple is a regular site on the "gem scam" circuit, so ignore anyone approaching you for a "free" tuk-tuk tour or bringing up the topic of purchasing gems. Free.

- Wat Ratchabophit (วัดราชบพิตร), 2 Fuang Nakhon Rd (near Saranrom Park), +66-2-221-1888. 5AM-8PM daily. Built by King Rama V in 1869, it was created to keep up with the tradition that each newly-appointed monarch erected a temple to mark his reign. The temple is a mixture of local and Western styles, as the exterior of the chapel is in Thai style, but the interior copies the regal style of European monarchies. A major feature of this wat is the Royal Mausoleum on the west side of the temple grounds, which includes four white memorials in which the ashes of four Queens of King Rama V are interred. The one for Queen Savang Vadhana, grandmother of the current King, is the first on the left as you walk in eastward from the road. Free.

- Wat Ratchanadda (วัดราชนัดดาราม), 2 Maha Chai Rd (east of Democracy Monument along Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, close to the Saen Saep canal boat terminus and the Golden Mount), +66-2-224-8807. 8AM-5PM daily. Wat Ratchanadda is a temple compound built by order of King Rama III in 1846. Its main structure, Loh Prasat (โลหะปราสาท, Thai for metal castle), is easily spotted as its spires are of black iron, not the usual glittery gold. It is in a highly unusual style: the wat itself is a five-storied gleaming white structure with rows of Buddhas and nice views from up top, very elegant, calm and relaxing after the crowds at the big temples. A good view of Bangkok is afforded from the top tier. The 37 metal spires signify the 37 virtues towards Enlightenment. At night, the square around it is beautifully illuminated. Also check out the Buddhist market at the rear of the complex, described in the Buy section. Free.

- Wat Ratchapradit (วัดราชประดิษฐ์สถิตมหาสีมาราม), Rachini Rd (at the corner of Rachini Rd and Saranrom Rd, north of Saranrom Park and opposite Wat Ratchabophit), +66-2-222-0855. 8AM-6PM daily. This quiet and modest wat is a nice get-away from the busy street and annoying tuk-tuk drivers. This ground used to be a royal coffee plantation in the reign of King Rama III. With his personal donation, King Rama IV bought the plantation and had a small temple constructed there in 1864. His intention was to make it a Thammayut Sect temple, according to the customary practice of having three eminent temples in the capital city of the Kingdom (the others being Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana). A place of interest in the temple is the royal image hall (Phra Wihan Luang), which has mural paintings depicting royal ceremonies, including the "Legend of the Solar Eclipse" phenomenon that occurred during the reign of King Rama IV. There are some interesting artifacts in the temple, including some of Rama IV's ashes that are now interred at the base of the Buddha. Also staged here are gifts King Rama IV got when he was installed as a monarch, such as French floor and ceiling lamps, English street lamps and a German clock that is still ticking today. Free.

- Wat Saket and the Golden Mount (วัดสระเกศและภูเขาทอง), Boriphat Rd (follow the sign into the small alley from Boriphat Rd), +66-2-233-4561. 8AM-9PM daily. Wat Saket was built outside of the former city walls in the late 18th-century in the reign of King Rama I. It served as the capital's crematorium, and throughout the next century became the dumping ground of over 60,000 plague victims who were too poor to afford a funeral. Wat Saket's major feature is the Golden Mount, an artificial hill dating from the early 19th-century. A huge chedi was built on top of the hill in the reign of King Rama III, but it collapsed during the construction process as the soil was too soft to support it. Rama V bricked in the debris and started construction on a more modest chedi that still exists today. He placed some relics inside the chedi, by some believed to be the Buddha's teeth. A spiral staircase of 318 steps leads from the ground to a terrace and shrine-room — the Buddha's relics are housed in a gold-leaf-covered shrine at the center of this area. Note that while the shrine itself is an ancient structure that creates an atmosphere worthy of respect, the area just below is more akin to a tacky fairground than one that leads to one of the nation's most sacred sites. Also, the harsh way of requesting the entrance fee does little to inspire the worthy pilgrim or traveler. In short, the shrine is definitely worth including in a travel itinerary, but do not expect a quiet and respectful environment. In the first week of November, the mount is illumated with colored lanterns and the compound turns into a large funfair. 10 baht.

- Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing (วัดสุทัศน์และเสาชิงช้า), 146 Bamrung Muang Rd (walk south from Democracy Monument along Dinso Road, as Bamrung Muang Road itself has no sidewalks), +66-2-222-0280, [5]. 9AM-9PM daily. This wat is becoming more and more off the beaten path as it is quite hard to walk here from the Grand Palace. Wat Suthat is huge and actually one of the most important temples for the Thai people. It's large size was needed as it was constructed in the early 19th century to house the huge Phra Sri Sakyamuni Buddha image, brought all the way down from Sukhothai by boat. The outer wall of the cloister has more than 150 Buddha images lined up, and as they are currently being re-gilded, they are in various states of repair. Outside is an open courtyard with many Chinese statues. The Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha) is a huge red frame on the plaza opposite the main entrance of Wat Suthat. The swing was used in an annual ceremony where teams of young men would try to swing high enough to retrieve a sack of gold that was tied to a pole about 25 meters high in the air. The ceremony has been banned since 1932, as many people got injured or died trying. The swing was fully renovated in 2007 and now looks as good as new. 20 baht.

- Wat Thepthidaram (วัดเทพธิดาราม), Maha Chai Rd (walk south along Maha Chai Road from Wat Ratchanadda and the temple will be at the right-hand side), +66-2-222-5067. 8AM-5PM daily. The temple was built in 1836, during the reign of King Rama III. Like other temples from the third reign, it has a Thai layout, but is combined with a mixture of Chinese architectural styles. The gables are decorated with Chinese porcelain pieces and there are Chinese statues all over the complex. Unfortunately, the temple is in desperate need of renovation. Sunthon Phu, one of Thailand's greatest poets, resided in this temple during his monkhood in the early 1840s. The quarters where he spent three years of his life are preserved at the rear of the compound, and might be turned into a museum. In 1986, UNESCO declared Sunthon Phu one of the world's greatest poets. Free.

Palaces
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- Front Palace (วังหน้า Wang Na, also known as the Palace of the Second King), Na Phra That Rd (between Thammasat University and the National Theatre, opposite Sanam Luang), +66-2-215-8173, [6]. W-Su 9AM-4PM, hols closed. Now the central building of the National Museum, the Front Palace used to be an enormous complex stretching from the Chao Phraya river across Sanam Luang to Khlong Lot. It was built in the 18th-century, along with the Grand Palace. The Front Palace housed the heir to the throne, who was appointed by the King; usually a son or brother of the reigning monarch who bare the title "Second King" or "Vice-King". The title of Second King started in the Ayutthaya Period, but gained a significant amount of power during the Rattanakosin Period when the Second King even got its own private army and navy. This large amount of power often led to conflicts between the King and the Second King. The last to bare the title of Second King was Prince Vichaichan. In 1884, he got into a power struggle with King Rama V in an event known as the Front Palace crisis. King Rama V tried to modernize Siam in a rapid pace, and conservative forces and the nobility, including Prince Vichaichan, saw their power and influence being slowly eroded. When Prince Vichaichan got a letter threatening his life, he mobilized up to 600 of his private troops around his palace. The King also mobilized his troops, but this only underlined that the Second King's guards were more numerous and better equipped. After an explosion, a mysterious fire broke out in the Grand Palace, threatening Wat Phra Kaew, and the Second King's troops got on their way to the Grand Palace to try and extinguish it; however this was blocked by the King's Royal Guards who feared that the fire was orchestrated by the Second King to take over the country. Afterwards King Rama V criticized the Second King for not moving all his troops to the Grand Palace, as an ancient custom dictated that the Second King's troops must actively protect the King and the Grand Palace in an emergency. King Rama V ordered his troops to surround the Front Palace, and Prince Vichaichan fleed to the British embassy. After mediation, the powerful Western countries supported King Rama V, who abolished the title and introduced the Western-style "Crown Prince of Siam" for the heir apparent. Prince Vichaichan died one year later. The palace was turned into the National Museum's main building housing Thai art objects. Some walled remains of the old Front Palace complex can be found inside the Thammasat University complex. 200 baht.

- Tha Phra Palace (วังท่าพระ Wang Tha Phra), 31 Na Phra Lan Rd (close to Chang pier, opposite the Grand Palace), +66-2-623-6115-21, [7]. 9AM-7PM daily. Just outside of the Grand Palace, Wang Tha Phra Palace is now a part of Silpakorn University, where many artists started their career in the arts and humanities. In August 2010, Tha Phra Palace celebrated its 200-year anniversary since its founding, and many home-grown artists were invited to make a painting about it. King Rama I built the palace for his nephew Prince Kasattiyanuchit, and since then, it has been a residence of many high-ranked princes, including King King Rama III who lived here when he still was still known as Prince Krommuen Jesadabodin. The last prince to live here was Prince Naris, who moved out in 1934 when the palace was turned into an art school. The palace is a combination of Thai and European-style buildings. Just walking around the campus is a fun activity, as usually there are some art projects by students going on. 50 baht gets you into the library, which has plenty of English-language books about the Grand Palace, art, culture, religion, architecture and travel. Also in the Wang Tha Phra compound are the Silpa Bhirasri National Museum and the Art Centre Silpakorn University. Free.

Museums
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- Bank of Thailand Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์ธนาคารแห่งประเทศไทย), 273 Samsen Rd (inside the Bang Khun Phrom Palace within the same compound as the Bank of Thailand), +66-2-283-5353, [8]. M-F 9:30AM-12AM, 1:30PM-4:30PM, Sa-Su closed, contact the museum at least one week in advance. The museum building is in the Bang Khum Phrom Palace, a former royal residence of HRH Prince Boriphat Sukhumphan, the 33rd son of King Rama V (Chulalongkorn). After 1932, the palace was used as a governmental office for a certain period, until 1945 when it became the headquarters of the Bank of Thailand. The Bank of Thailand Museum was established in 1982, accommodating 14 rooms on two floors. The first floor focuses on the history of Thai currency since the first century, while the second floor focuses on the 60-year old history of the Bank of Thailand. Free.

- Corrections Museum, 436 Maha Chai Rd (in the southeastern corner of Rommaninat Park), +66-2-226-1706. M-F 8:30AM-4:30PM, Sa-Su, hols closed, only on appointment. This used to be the location of the Bangkok Remand Prison, an old and overcrowded prison. Most of it has been torn down and turned into a public park, but three blocks, a cellblock, a side of the prison wall and two watchtowers were preserved and turned into a museum. This museum displays some of the most sadistic punishments imaginable, and these were actually carried out to offenders not even that long ago. The museum can only be visited after making an appointment, but most of the punishment instruments can be seen from the public park outside, so you don't necessarily need to enter the museum. Free.

- King Prajadhipok Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์พระบาทสมเด็จพระปกเกล้าเจ้าอยู่หัว, also known as the King Rama VII Museum), 2 Lan Luang Rd (at the foot of Phan Fa Lilat Bridge at the corner of Lan Luang Rd), +66-2-280-3413(-4), [9]. Tu-Su, hols, 9AM-4PM. The building is designed by the French-Swiss architect Charles Beguelin in 1906 in a neo-classical style that popular with King Rama VI and King Rama VII. It was renovated by the King Prajadhipok Institute to serve as a museum exhibiting a rare collection of King Rama VII's personal belongings, including photographs, documents and his biography. King Rama VII ruled in a turbulent time of Thailand's history; he was the last King who enjoyed absolute monarchy, as well as the first King under a constitutional monarchy. Significant events and stories relating to King Rama VII are exhibited, including his succession to the throne, royal activities, political reform, promulgation of the constitution, royal utensils and memorabilia, as well as his life after abdication and death in the United Kingdom. The demolished Sala Chaloem Krung Theatre that used to stand in the nearby area is imitated with old films being projected. 40 baht.

- Museum of Siam (มิวเซียมสยาม), 4 Sanam Chai Rd (Tien pier, near Wat Pho), +66-2-225-2777, [10]. Tu-Su 10AM-6PM, M closed. The recently renovated European-style mansion of the Ministry of Commerce of Thailand has been turned in good use. It now is the Museum of Siam, a permanent exhibition about the history of the Thai nation, its culture and its interaction with other nations and cultures. As with all the new museums in town, it's a so-called "discovery museum", in which visitors can play and interact with the objects shown. It is a lot fun, for children and adults alike, and informative at a superficial level. First you watch a subtitled short film about Thai-foreign interaction, with some Thai inside jokes about foreigners. Then you'll walk through several historically-themed rooms, starting in prehistory and ending in the modern age. Make sure your camera is charged and its memory unit empty, as there are many photo opportunities. You can sit in a tuk-tuk, prepare fake Thai food, bomb medieval armies, wear colonial-age clothing, present a news program and sit in a 50s-style diner. 150 baht, free entry between 4PM-6PM.

- National Museum (พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติ พระนคร), Na Phra That Rd (between Thammasat University and the National Theatre, opposite Sanam Luang), +66-2-215-8173, [11]. W-Su 9AM-4PM, hols closed. The National Museum took over the Front Palace grounds, a former royal palace built in the 18th-century just like the Grand Palace. The grounds are attractive in parts, but a bit sprawling and difficult to navigate. The permanent exhibits are a mixed bag — there are some terrific new displays and dioramas on Thai history, but many other buildings are dusty collections of artifacts without much by way of explanation. A good way to cope with this is by taking the free guided tour in English, held on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 9:30AM. Allow a full afternoon to see this one as it is fairly large. 200 baht.

- Silpa Bhirasri National Museum (พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติ ศิลป์ พีระศรี), (Chang pier; inside Silpakorn University complex), +66-2-223-6162. M-F 9AM-4PM, Sa-Su closed. This museum is dedicated to the "father of modern art" of Thailand, the Italian professor Corrado Feroci. He founded Silpakorn University, the best art and humanities school of Thailand. Many of his works are on display throughout the city, including the Democracy Monument and the statues of King Taksin, King Rama I and King Rama VI. This museum is located in the building where he lived and made his designs. Free.

Art galleries
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- Art Centre Silpakorn University, 31 Na Phra Lan Rd (Chang pier; opposite the entrance of the Grand Palace), +66-2-623-6120(-1418), [12]. M-F 9AM-7PM, Sa 10AM4-4PM, Su closed. The exhibitions on show here are created by art students, teachers and university artists from Silpakorn University, the country's first art school. The exhibitions change often, and the only way to find out what's on is by walking in. Sometimes the art centre is closed when the building is used for university meetings and summits. Free.

- National Gallery (พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติ หอศิลป), Chao Fa Rd (from Phra Chan, walk north on August 16 Road, through the university complex, then walk under the Pinklao Bridge and turn right into Chao Fa Road), +66-2-282-2639. W-Su 9AM-4PM, M-Tu, hols closed. Housed in the former Royal Thai Mint, it is fairly small and compact. Obviously a matter of taste, the permanent displays could be described as quite unimpressive, but the ever-changing modern art exhibitions can be considerably more appealing for foreigners. Oil paintings by the King are also exhibited here. 30 baht.

- The Queen's Gallery, 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd (Phan Fa Lilat pier; opposite Mahakan Fort and Wat Ratchanadda), +66-2-281-5360(-1), [13]. Th-Tu 10AM-7PM, W closed. This privately funded gallery was established after the request of HM Queen Sirikit who wanted a permanent venue for the exhibition of Thai arts. The gallery has four floors of contemporary and modern arts, including paintings, sculptures, audiovisual arts and even furniture arts, most of them created by students. Many paintings use elements of traditional Thai life and religion and place them in a contemporary setting. Taking pictures without using the flash is allowed. There is also a reading room and a cafe. 20 baht.

Parks
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- Rommaninat Park (สวนรมณีนาถ), Soi Siriphat (east of Wat Suthat), +66-2-221-5181. 5AM-8PM daily. This public park is built on the old prison grounds of the Bangkok Remand Prison near Wat Suthat. Three blocks, a cellblock, a side of the prison wall and two watchtowers were preserved and turned into a museum, the Corrections Museum, which is located at the southeastern corner of the park. The park features many fountains, some basketball courts, a playground and a weight lifting area. Free.

- Sanam Luang (สนามหลวง), Ratchadamnoen Nai Rd (north of the Grand Palace). When Rattanakosin was established as Siam's capital, Rama I designed this vast open field between the northern wall of the Grand Palace and the eastern wall of the former Wang Na Palace. At that time, the ground was a rice field sometimes used for royal crematoria. The ground was called "Thung Phra Men", which means crematorium ground in Thai. Considering that name was inauspicious, King Rama IV renamed the ground "Thong Sanam Luang", or the royal ground, and all rice farming there was ceased. Later, King Rama V had Wang Na's eastern wall demolished and enlarged Sanam Luang to its current size. The place has been used as the crematorium ground for kings, members of the royal family and nobility, in addition to being a royal sporting ground. 365 tamarind trees are placed around it. Sanam Luang is Bangkok's equivalent of a 'speaker's corner' where the people get together to talk politics. In recent history, the ground has been used for political rallies and demonstrations, such as the yellow and red shirt protests in the late 2000s. At December 5th, the birthday of HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej, literally a million people come here to celebrate his birthday. Every night, a flee market is held on the streets surrounding it. Free.

- Saranrom Park, Saranrom Rd (diagonally opposite Wat Pho). 5AM-8PM daily. This park was originally a royal garden part of the Saranrom Palace, built in 1866 by King Rama IV. He wanted to use it after he stepped down as a monarch, but died before it was completed. When King Rama V took over, he gave the palace to his younger brothers, and turned the park into a zoo. When he built the Dusit Palace in the early 20th century, he moved all the animals to the Dusit Zoo. The park then became a property of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, before being turned into a public park in 1960. The basic layout still resembles its design by Rama IV. It is a lush garden created around a lake, home to glasshouses, ancient trees and wooden pagodas. A great place to relax and escape the heat. After work, many locals run around the paths for exercise or do aerobics on (very) loud music. There's also a table tennis table and always someone who wants to play. At the south end of the park is a marble monument dedicated to HM Queen Sunantha Kumareerat and HRH Prince Kannaporn Phetcharat, who died in a boating accident during the reign of King Rama V. Free.

Monuments
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- Bodhi Court, August 16 Rd (inside the Thammasat University complex, near the corner of Phra Chan Rd and August 16 Rd). You might stumble across a tree on a pedestal when walking from Phra Chan Market to Thammasat University. Why would a tree be placed on a pedestal and decorated with garlands? Well, the tree has been linked with Thailand's struggle for democracy and the role Thammasat University has played here. The Bodhi Court is the birthplace of the October 8, 1973 student movement that grew into mass demonstrations for democracy and a new constitution. They protested against the military junta for the release of 13 people that had been arrested for demanding a national charter. The number of protesters swelled to the hundreds of thousands and had to move to the university's football field. This large group of people started to move onto the streets at October 13, 1973. The following day, the government violently suppressed these mass demonstrations, a key event in Thai modern history and the reason why the October 14 Memorial was erected near Khao San Road. On October 4, 1976, the Bodhi Court was the stage of an open-air stage performance that mocked the political culture of that time. When that parodies took hold of the newspapers' headlines, the military junta called them "defamatory to the royal family" and violently attacked the student groups on October 6. In 1991, a military coup d'etat followed and a constitution was drafted that basically maintained the status quo. Students again gathered at the Bodhi Court to protest against the junta. After the 1992 general elections, the opposition of the junta gathered at the Bodhi Court, starting demonstrations that would evolve into more than 200,000 participants. The junta again cracked down in an event known as the Black May Massacre, but eventually all protesters were freed and the junta stepped down in favor of democracy. An important tree, indeed. Free.

- City Pillar Shrine (ศาลหลักเมือง Lak Mueang), Lak Mueang Rd (southeast corner of Sanam Luang). According to an old Thai tradition, a city pillar has to be built upon the establishment of a new city, to provide a home for guardian spirits. King Rama I had the Bangkok city pillar erected near Wat Phra Kaew on April 21, 1782, an astrologically determined date for the auspicious founding of Bangkok. The city pillar includes the city's horoscope inside. Every town in Thailand has a similar city pillar shrine, so there are thousands of these all across the country. The original pillar was carved out of cassia wood, measuring 75 cm thick and 27 cm high. In the reign of King Rama IV, the old dilapidated pillar was replaced by a new one that measures 270 cm in height with a wide base of 175 cm. At that time it was placed in the prang-shaped shrine as seen today. Thonburi was merged into Bangkok in 1972, and its city pillar has been incorporated in the shrine. Hundreds of locals pray and place flowers here every day, as they believe the shrine has the power to bring good luck. Traditional dance ceremonies are often held, paid by wealthy families that saw their wishes granted. Free.

- King Rama III Memorial (พระบรมราชานุสาวรีย์พระบาทสมเด็จพระนั่งเกล้าเจ้าอยู่หัว), Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd (in front of Wat Ratchanadda). This monument dedicated to King Rama III was built by the Fine Arts Department in 1990. The bronze statue, half larger than life size, is seated on a throne. The surrounding area has been turned into a beautiful square decorated with beautiful plants, the Royal Reception Pavilion and three minor pavilions known as Sala Rai, as well as a nice view on Wat Ratchanadda. At night this square is beautifully illuminated. Free.

- Mae Toranee Statue, Ratchadamnoen Nai Rd (at the junction of Ratchadamnoen Nai Rd and Rachini Rd). Mae Toranee is the earth goddess, a deity in Thai Buddhism that is shown wringing water from her ponytail. The statue shows a legend often drawn on the murals of temples. While the Buddha was meditating in a crucial stage of Enlightenment, the evil demon Mara sent out a bunch of earthly temptations and demons to divert him from his path. The Buddha was determined to continue and remained cross-legged. He pointed his right hand towards the ground, calling out the earth goddess. Mae Toranee obliged and wrung her hair, sending a massive gulf of water to wipe out Mara's demons. Free.

- Mahakan Fort, Maha Chai Rd (near Wat Ratchanadda). Mahakan Fort is one of only two remaining forts of Rattanakosin's outer city walls, the other being Phra Sumen Fort near Khao San Road. Mahakan Fort is situated at the banks of Khlong Rop Mueang, and a part of the former ring of forts that defended Rattanakosin Island from invasions from the east. It was built during the reign of Rama I. What makes this fort unique compared to Phra Sumen Fort is that a part of the old city wall is still intact; it runs about 200 meters south along Maha Chai Road. An almost a century old community lives in shanties between the old city wall and the canal, but the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration has been trying to turn it into a public park for tourists (as was done around Phra Sumen Fort). After a 14-year legal dispute, it seems like a compromise has been reached where some houses of the old community will stay and be turned into museums. Free.

- Monument to the Expeditionary Force (อนุสาวรีย์ทหารอาสา), Na Phra That Rd (northwest of Sanam Luang). This is a monument to the Thai expeditionary force that fought in the European battlefield during World War I. After war broke out in 1914, Thailand had remained neutral for about three years. When the United States declared war on Germany in April 1917, King Rama VI still waited on the sidelines. Thailand had good relations with Germany, though eventually King Rama VI joined the Allies by declaring war on Germany and sent a militia of 1284 volunteers to Europe on June 20, 1918. King Rama IV said that joining the Allies "would be an excellent opportunity for us to gain equality with other nations". Thailand had lost land to France and the United Kingdom and had to accept the imposition of extraterritorial rights for the citizens of these nations. By joining the war with the Allies, he hoped that they would be more flexible in amending those treaties in the future. The expeditionary force returned to Thailand on September 21, 1919. The ashes of the dead veterans were taken to be enshrined here three days later. The names of 19 soldiers killed in the Western Front have been inscribed. Free.

- Pig Memorial (Sahachat Memorial), Atsadang Rd (opposite Wat Ratchabophit at Khlong Lod). Designed by Prince Naris, this golden pig statue was created in 1913 at the 50th birthday anniversary of Queen Phatcharinthra, one of King Rama V's wives, who was born in the Chinese year of the pig. In Thai it is also known as the Sahachat Memorial, that means "the memorial of those born in the year of the pig". It refers to three royal donors that were born in the same year as her. Generally, the memorial is decorated with colorful garlands and flowers, and locals come here to pray and show respect. Free.

Do
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One of the best activities in Rattanakosin is simply to walk around and enjoy the historic sights the area has to offer. Every corner brings something new. The Grand Palace is a good place to start, from where you can explore the whole area on foot.

You can also hire a "Green Bangkok Bike" for free and cycle the Rattanakosin Bicycle Route. Rental places are scattered over the district, such as at Sanam Luang, Tien pier and beside the tourist office under the Pinklao Bridge. Officials will take a digital photo of your passport, after which you can pick up the bike. You have till 5PM to complete the route. Be very careful of traffic though, and do not leave the designated route (as it is the only route with roads that at least resemble bicycle paths).

- National Theatre, 2 Rachini Rd, +66-2-224-1342. You might want to attend the National Theatre, where you can watch a classical performance or traditional dance (such as a khon dance). Don't expect an English language production though, as most shows are set up for the locals. Don't forget to get your hand on the program first, as it will give a synopsis of what the play is about. Also stand up when the national anthem begins. 50-200 baht.

- Ratchadamnoen Stadium (สนามมวยราชดำเนิน), Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd (from Wat Ratchanadda, walk north along Ratchadamnoen Nok Road and the stadium will be at the right side of the road after the big road intersection), +66-2-281-4205. M, W, Th 6:30PM-10:30PM, Su 5PM-8PM and 8:30PM-midnight. When the locals want entertainment, they head to the stadium for some Thai boxing! Or Muay Thai, as the Thais call it. It is very expensive though, expect to pay 1000 baht for an outer-ring seat, 1500 baht for a middle-ring seat and 2000 baht for ringside seats. Thais chip in for 230 baht. A match includes eight fights with a maximum of five rounds each, so make some time free in your schedule. The area around the stadium has some of the best places to get Isaan food, as television host Anthony Bourdain has shown in his program "No Reservations". 1000-2000 baht.

- Wat Po Massage, 2 Sanam Chai Rd (Tien pier), +66-2-221-2974, [14]. 8:30AM-6PM. A good way to combine relaxation and understanding Thai culture is by taking a traditional Thai massage inside the Wat Pho temple compound. Thai massage is considered a medical discipline in Thailand, used for the treatment of many kinds of illnesses. The massages are given in the dilapidated buildings at the east of the northern compound. Take a two-hour Thai massage for best results, or try a foot, oil or facial massage. 400 baht/hour.

Learn
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Being the historic center of the city, Rattanakosin is great place to learn meditation, yoga or how to give a traditional Thai massage.

- The International Buddhist Meditation Centre, Wat Mahathat, 3 Maharat Rd (near Chang Pier, inside section 5 of Wat Mahathat), +66-2-623-5685, [15]. daily 7AM-10AM, 1PM-4PM, 6PM-8PM. This old temple was built in the reign of King Rama I, right after the establishment of Rattanakosin as the new capital of Siam. Sandwiched between Maha Rat Road, Na Phra That Road and Silpakorn University, it houses the Maha Chulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of the two highest seats of Buddhist learning in Thailand. Most interesting for foreigners are the two or three-hour Buddhist meditation courses given three times a day. Attendance is free of charge, but donations are welcome. It is also possible to stay overnight and take the "intensive course". Those who follow it must observe the eight precepts and wear white clothes. Free.

- Wat Po Thai Traditional Massage School (โรงเรียนแพทย์แผนโบราณวัดพระเชตุพน), 392/25-28 Soi Pen Phat 1 (outside of the main Wat Pho compound; from Tien pier, take a right into Maha Rat Road, walk on and take a right in Soi Pen Phat), +66-2-622-3550, [16]. 8:30AM-6PM. Here you can learn how to give a traditional Thai massage. The basic course is quite comprehensive and lasts five days, so make sure you have some time on your hands. You can start with the course at the same day as you register. Just registering can be a pain though — you'll need photocopy of your passport and two by two inch headshots (UK passport photos are not accepted as they are too small). Photos will also be rejected if you are wearing a skimpy top or do not look tidy. To be sure, go to a nearby Kodak shop and tell them the photos are for the Thai massage certificate (photo processing might take some hours). Really all else you need to bring is comfortable clothing — body jewelery must be taken off. The massage schools puts foreigners in a separate English-speaking classroom where the instructors have a fair grasp of English. Prepare for an Asian style of teaching — they teach you what to do without often explaining the reasons why, however if you question them, they will tell you. It is best to study five days consecutively, but there is scope for having a break in the middle. Lunch is provided for 30 baht and is of good quality, but can be low on quantity if there are lots of students. The Thai massages are conducted with you wearing all your clothes. At 8AM in the northeast corner of Wat Pho, the massage school teaches Thai yoga. This is free to attend, and you do not need to pay an entrance fee to get into the courtyard if you are a massage student. 8700 baht/5 days.

Buy
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Markets
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With all the glitzy shopping malls in Siam Square, shopping in Rattanakosin is more traditional. Like in Khao San Road, street markets are virtually everywhere, but those in Rattanakosin are more authentic. Sure, plenty of tourists roam around the area, but as most street markets are set up for the locals, a phrasebook might come in handy. Expect all day markets to close in the early evenings.

- Bobae Market, Bobae Tower, 488 Damrong Rak Rd (Bo-Be Market pier, off Krung Kasem Road), +66-2-628-1888, [17]. 6AM-6PM daily. Bobae Market is a bit like Pratunam — it's a huge garment market with wholesale prices! You must buy in bulk as that gives the best deals. And just like Pratunam, it has its own Saen Saep Express Boat pier, so it's easy to get to. The nearby Bobae Tower has 700 shops that sell the same clothes as on the market, but caters to those looking for single items. Prices are somewhat higher, but at least you are able to fit your buys in your suitcase! Not a lot of foreigners know about this place, though Russians seem to have found out about it (as the Russian signs indicate).

- Carpentry and Wood Stores, Boriphat Rd (at the back entry of the Golden Mount). The northern end of Boriphat Road is lined up with carpentry and wood stores. These are very skilled workers, just take a look at the detailed patterns they create in the wooden doors! Taking one home is probably stretching your airline's 20 kg baggage limit though.

- Lang Krasuang (หลังกระทรวงกลาโหม), Atsadang Rd (behind the Ministry of Defense). The name literally means "behind the Ministry" and refers to an area behind the Ministry of Defense on Atsadang Road, which runs along Khlong Lot. On sale are military items such as uniforms, territorial defense student uniforms, shoes as well as travelling accessories like tents, sleeping bags and camping pots. There are shops selling musical instruments nearby.

- Phra Chan Market, Phra Chan Rd (Phra Chan pier). The is a small clothes market. Most t-shirts have a kind of postmodern pop-art style, which are popular with the local art students. There are also women clothes, sneakers, accessories and the like. For food, there are simple lunch restaurants inside the pier building, where you can sit right beside the Chao Phraya river for 50 baht a meal and water. These are mostly used by locals, so bring a phrasebook. A small indoor shopping area can be reached from Mahathat Road, where you can have an American or get some iced chocolate.

- Rachini Night Market, Rachini Rd (near Mae Toranee Statue). When dust kicks in, the night market at Rachini Road is set up. It starts around 6PM, but only gets interesting after 8PM. The market has been at the roads surrounding Sanam Luang for years, but was moved to its present location in 2010 when Sanam Luang was sealed off due to construction work. It's a bit like a flee market as locals put a blanket on the ground and wait for customers to buy their second-hand stuff. Expect toys, dolls, pets, shoes, bags, pants, mobile phone chargers, remotes, and other junk kept at the attic. All the sellers place lamps so it's easy to browse around.

Amulet markets
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Rattanakosin is the best place in Bangkok for buying amulets and other religious paraphernalia. These markets are among the most authentic ones, as they are meant for faithful Buddhist locals instead of masses of tourists.

- Bamrung Muang Road, Bamrung Muang Rd (walk west from Wat Suthat). The road to Wat Suthat has plenty of stores selling religious items. Awesome human-sized Buddha images are on sale here, but don't even think about bringing those on the plane! You can also get item-filled buckets here to donate to monks. These buckets contain daily necessities monks might need, such as soap, toothpaste, candles, etc. Be careful when shopping here as the road is lacking sidewalks!

- Mahathat Amulet Market, Maha Rat Rd (near the Grand Palace). If you're on a budget, the amulet market in front of Wat Mahathat might be a better option. Along the side of the road are dozens of vendors selling amulets, and you can get one for as cheap as 5 baht! Better looking amulets cost around 20-100 baht, or as much as you want to spend on it.

- Wat Ratchanadda Buddha Center, (southeast of Wat Ratchanadda, can best be accessed from Mahachai Rd). Probably the largest amulet market of Bangkok with more than one hundred stalls selling everything a good Buddhist would need. You can find thousands of tiny Buddha images here, as well as Hindu figures, in all colors, shapes and sizes.

Ban bat
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During the alms ceremony in the morning, in which monks at their temple receive donations of the people, the monks usually carry big bowls for receiving the donations. These bowls are known as 'bat' and have been made by hand for centuries. As factories took over the production of these bowls, most of the communities that made a living of producing them have vanished.

An exception is Ban Bat, "Bowl Village", a small alley near Wat Suthat with a couple of families that still make a living with the handicraft of making these bowls. Don't think this is a very authentic experience though — locals don't buy these bowls and once an interested traveler walks in, it feels like hunting season has begun. Bowl producers will follow you even outside the Ban Bat compound. That's why Ban Bat can only be recommended for visitors who are actually interested in buying a bowl (which costs a couple of thousand baht).

Eat
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Compared to the profusion elsewhere in the city, it is appalling how hard it is to find a decent place to eat after having visited the Grand Palace. Many visitors jut grab a quick bite at one of the carts in front of Silpakorn University. There are some cafes at Na Phra Lan Road, but as they are mostly about sipping coffee, their dishes are tiny and overpriced.

The nearby Tha Chang pier has an interesting fruit market with pineapples, durians and bananas for sale, as well as exotic Thai fruits you probably have never heard of before. You might want to drink some coconut juice or try some rambutans if you want something really exotic. If you want to have a simple meal for 50 baht, just sit down on one of the plastic chairs in the middle of the market. It also has the only good restaurant of the area, Krua Khun Kung, which is well-hidden inside a small alley at the ATM machines.

If you're looking for some better places to eat on the island, walk east to the area bounded by Democracy Monument in the north and Wat Suthat in the south. There are many small restaurants there where the locals have lunch. Some restaurants have assembled around Tanao Road and Trok Nawa. Khao San Road is just as close to the main sights though, so you might want to grab a bite there.

- Elle Tha Pra Chan, 172 Wat Maha Rat Rd (from Chang Pier, take a left into Wat Mahathat Rd and after 100 meters it is on the left-hand side), +66-2-623-5750. 9AM-5PM daily. This is one of the few decent restaurants (and bakery) near the Grand Palace. It is actually right at the Wat Mahathat Amulet Market. It doesn't have an English sign on, but it's not that hard to find. Menus are in English, and have pictures shown with them, so just point to the dish of your choice. It has the typical Thai dishes as well as some Italian pastas. Many art students from the nearby Silpakorn University have lunch together here, so expect it to be very crowded (and noisy) around noon. 70 baht.

- In Love (formerly Chon-Ngern or Silver Spoon), 2/1 Krung Kasem Rd (Thewet pier), +66-2-281-9228. 6PM-1AM daily. This is an elegant restaurant with breathtaking nightly views of the Rama VIII Bridge and the Chao Phraya river. As the name indicates, many Thais go here to impress their loved one, and so should you, as the atmosphere is very romantic. Try the plaa kraphong neung manao, a delicious steamed sea bass with lemon. 400 baht.

- Krua Khun Kung (ครัวคุณกุ้ง, also known as Navy Club Restaurant), 77 Maha Rat Rd (at Tha Chang pier, walk through the small alley at the ATMs), +66-2-222-0081, [18]. M-F 11AM-2PM, 4PM-10PM, Sa-Su 11AM-10PM. Tucked in a small alley, this restaurant actually has a great view over the Chao Phraya river. It's best to sit outside on the terrace, but you can also sit indoors if you want to cool down from the heat. On the menu is seafood, and some of the best the city has to offer. Beware; very spicy! 100-150 baht.

- Mont Nom Sod (Mon Nomsot), 160/2-3 Dinso Rd (near the Dinso Road and Soi Samran Rat intersection; opposite Bangkok Metropolitan Administration Building), +66-2-224-1147. 2PM-midnight daily. This large bakery is specialized in toasted bread with all kinds of stuff on top of it, such as peanut butter, chocolate, yucca root or other sugary stuff (generally the toppings are very sweet). Don't expect any English to be spoken here as it is meant for locals and quite off the beaten path, but you can just point to the dishes you want. 90 baht.

- Thip Samai (Pad Thai Pratuu Phii), 313 Maha Chai Rd (walk down Maha Chai Rd from Wat Ratchanadda, the restaurant is across the road from Wat Thepthidaram), +66-2-221-6280. 7PM-3AM daily. Due to the lack of splurge restaurants, street food is the big thing in Rattanakosin, and Thip Samai excels exactly at that. It's in business for longer than 50 years and known as the best place in Thailand to get pad thai (Thai fried noodles). You can choose between seven different types of pad thai, the cheapest one is only 30 baht. The best one is the 'pad thai song-kreung' with crabmeat, cuttlefish, shrimp roe, prawns and fried egg. Wash it down with some sliced coconut juice. 30-100 baht.

Drink
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- Krisa, Na Phra Lan Rd (Chang pier; from the Grand Palace, cross the road, turn right and it will be on the left side after 100 meters), +66-2-225-2680. 10AM-6PM daily. This cafe with an old Western-style interior is in a good place to fresh up after a hike through the Grand Palace. Obviously you can get coffee and tea, but an iced chocolate might be a better choice. Also, it has air-conditioning! It is a family-run cafe with just five tables, but that gives the place its cozy and relaxed atmosphere. For around 70 baht, they also serve simple Thai dishes, but don't expect big portions.

- Na Phra Lan Cafe, Na Phra Lan Rd (Chang pier; from the Grand Palace, cross the road, turn right and it will be on the left side after 100 meters), +66-2-221-2312. M-Sa 10:30AM-10.30PM, Su 10:30AM-6PM. Popular cafe among art students from the nearby Silpakorn University. At daytime it's a nice place for a coffee, tea or hot chocolate. After dusk, many students come here to drink beer in large amounts.

- Rub Aroon (รับอรุณ), 310-312 Maha Rat Rd (Tien pier; opposite from Wat Pho), +66-2-622-2312. 10AM-6:30PM daily. Professional looking European-style cafe, but without an English sign. Nice place to fresh up after having visited Wat Pho. Its front opens directly onto the street with seats on the sidewalk. The atmosphere is relaxed and there are some simple Thai dishes on the menu.

Sleep
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Rattanakosin is overflowing with sights, but accommodotion — that's a challenge. Budget guest houses are clustered on the nearby Khao San Road, while Silom, Siam Square and Sukhumvit have plenty of upscale hotels. Most travelers go to those districts for the wide availability of accommodation. If you insist on staying in Rattanakosin, choice is limited, but there are some options available.

- Aurum, 394/27-29 Soi Pansook (Tien pier; a sidestreet of Maha Rat Road, next to Wat Pho), +66-2-622-2248, [19]. If you want a more cultural stay than the hotels in Khao San Road, this boutique hotel is an excellent alternative. River view rooms have a very romantic view over the Chao Phraya river and the beautiful Wat Arun temple. The top three sights can all be visited on foot. Unfortunately, the hotel doesn't have a pool. 4000-4900 baht.

- Boonsiri Place, 55 Buranasart Rd (from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, walk south into Buranasart Road and you'll find the hotel on the right side after 250 meters), +66-2-622-2189(-91), [20]. Just a five-minutes walk south of Khao San Road, this hotel is hidden in the back-alleys of Rattanakosin. The rooms are very clean, as are the bathrooms. Breakfast selection is adequate, but not anything special. It conveniently has a 7-Eleven on the ground floor. 1000 baht.

- Chakrabongse Villas, 396 Maha Rat Rd (close to the Museum of Siam), +66-2-224-6686, [21]. An absolute splurge accommodation, these are three private apartments in an amazing garden setting with a riverside view at Wat Arun. The villas are beautifully decorated and furnished with dark wood, silk and teak floors. Amenities include air-conditioning and a small pool. Very expensive though. 5000-25,000 baht.

- Niras Bankoc Cultural Hostel, 204-206 Maha Chai Rd (just north of the Maha Chai Rd and Bamrung Muang Rd intersection), +66-2-221-4442, [22]. This is a great hotel as it is close to most attractions and to Khao San Road, while still in a quiet folk neighborhood. Walking to the Grand Palace takes about 30 minutes over some larger roads, but you can easily hail taxis. There are private rooms and dorm rooms with four to six people on it. Rooms are clean and decent, and the interior is in an interesting colonial style. The vintage coffee shop offers good quality coffee and Thai tea. Free Wi-Fi is available. 1200-1890 baht, dorm 440 baht per person.

Contact
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Getting online in Rattanakosin is not an easy task. There are not a lot of Wi-Fi hotspots or Internet cafes, but as Khao San Road is nearby, you might just want to head in that direction. The canteen of Thammasat University has an open WiFi signal, but connection quality varies. Niras Bankoc Cultural Hostel is a nice place for sipping coffee, and also has free Wi-Fi available for its customers.

If you want to send mail, there is a post office close to the Grand Palace in the middle of Na Phra Lan Road.

Get out
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Rattanakosin has Bangkok's principal tourist sights, but the surrounding districts offer plenty of activities, stores, restaurants and nightlife.

- Wat Arun, at the other side of the river in Thonburi, is a stunning temple decorated with leftovers from broken Chinese ceramics. It is often visited together with Wat Pho, from where you can take the 3-baht ferry ride across the river.

- Don't throw away your entry ticket to the Grand Palace! Use it to get a free entry into the leafy Dusit Palace in Dusit (valid for a week). Its prime sight is the Vimanmek Palace, but you could spend your whole day there if you wish. It is 15 minutes by bus 70 from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (near Democracy Monument).

- Just across a small canal in the Phahurat district is Pak Khlong Talat, a surprisingly fun flower market. It's best visited in the very early morning, when new flower batches arrive and the whole market is beautifully illuminated.

District Khao San Road Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By boat

By bus

By taxi

• See

• Do

• Learn

• Buy

Books

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

• Drink

Cafes

Bars and pubs

Nightclubs

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Cope

• Contact

• Stay safe

• Get out

Understand
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Pronunciation tip

The syllable "khao" is pronounced similarly to the English word "cow", but since the late 1990s, backpackers have often been mispronouncing it as "coe" (perhaps confusing it with "koh", meaning "island", which in itself is incorrect and should be an abrupt "goh"; perhaps influenced by the book/movie The Beach). Please help re-introduce the correct pronunciation into the backpacker community by pronouncing it properly.

The word khao san itself means milled rice and is an attribution to the historical role of this street in the rice trade. The first business to open on Khao San Road was a small hotel aimed at serving civil servants from the provinces who came to Bangkok on business. The hotel was followed by Sor Thambhakdi, a shop selling monks' accessories. Four similar businesses moved in after, and Khao San became known as a "religious road".

Word soon spread about the easy lifestyle and friendliness of the locals. Friends told friends, and before long, the owner of the house started to charge 20 baht for food and lodging. The first commercial guest house, called Bonny, opened in 1982 with six small bedrooms.

Today, there's a lot more than six small bedrooms on offer. In the span of just a couple of blocks, there are bars, food stalls, restaurants, convenience stores, pharmacies, internet cafes, money changing booths, ATMs, shoe stores, massage parlors, tailors, travel agencies, laundry, boxing gyms, optometrists, endless warrens of suspiciously discounted designer clothes and, oh, rooms for the night.

The chaos has spilled over to the entire area, including Soi Rambuttri, which features little bars and restaurants that are starting to spill out onto the sidewalk; Phra Athit Road, with its colonial-style mansions and riverside hotels; and Samsen Road, a quiet neighborhood with cozy guest houses and vegetarian restaurants. It is indeed a tourist destination, although it is also a little unsafe at night and instances of mugging and pick-pocketing do occur.

- Bangkok Tourist Information Office, 17/1 Phra Athit Rd (under the Pinklao Bridge), +66-2-225-7612(-4), [1]. It's a good idea to stop by the tourist office for some maps of the city. You can also get hotel and dining addresses here or ask any other questions you may have.

Get in
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Khao San Road is fairly easy to get to from anywhere in Bangkok. Express boats, buses and taxis are your main options. While the Skytrain and the metro are convenient ways of getting to many places in Bangkok, there is no connection to Khao San Road (or to anywhere else in Rattanakosin, for that matter).

By boat
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The Chao Phraya Express Boat is the cheapest and most scenic way of getting to Khao San Road. If you're coming from downtown, take the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station, where you can transfer onto the express boat at Sathorn (Taksin) pier. Then ride the express boat all the way north to Phra Arthit pier, which takes about 35 minutes and costs 13 to 18 baht. Make sure to get either the orange flag line or the blue flag tourist boat, as the yellow flag line skips Phra Arthit pier completely.

If you're staying in Khao San Road, the express boat is the easiest way to get to Rattanakosin and Silom. It's only a short (but confusing) walk from Khao San Road to Phra Arthit pier. First walk to the police station side of Khao San Road, then take a right and immediately a left into Soi Rambuttri. Walk along the bend of the street and take a right into Soi Chana Songkhram. At the end, take a right into Phra Athit Road, cross the road, and look for the small sign to the express boat pier (it is near Navalai River Resort). Bring a good map, have a good sense of direction, or ask help from a local if you get lost.

The most important piers are Tha Chang (for the Grand Palace), Tha Tien (for Wat Pho) and Rachawongse (for Yaowarat). All lines attend Sathorn (Taksin) pier, where you can transfer onto the Skytrain. From here, you can go to Silom, Siam Square, Sukhumvit and Phahonyothin. The Chao Phraya Express Boat stops running around 6PM or 7PM depending on the day, so you'll have to rely on other forms of transport in the evening.

The quickest (though not the most comfortable) way to get from Khao San Road to Siam Square, Sukhumvit and Ramkhamhaeng is by Saen Saep Express Boat. The closest pier to Khao San Road is Panfa Leelard, which is near the Golden Mount and Wat Ratchanadda. There you can get on the Golden Mount Line, which is a direct boat service from Panfa Leelard to Pratunam. At that pier you can switch onto the NIDA Line, that runs from Pratunam all the way northeast to Wat Sriboonreung in Ramkhamhaeng. A single trip from Panfa Leelard to Pratunam takes about 20 minutes and costs 11 baht. On the trip, you will pass the stops Talat Bobae (for the garment market of the same name), Sapan Charoenpol, Baan Krua Nua (for Jim Thompson's House), Sapan Hua Chang (for Siam Square) and Pratunam (for Pratunam and Ratchaprasong).

By bus
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The bus system in Bangkok is very complex, but as Khao San Road is not connected to the Skytrain, for some destinations you don't have a choice. Some useful bus lines for travel to/from Khao San Road include the following:

- Ordinary bus 2 goes from Sukhumvit Road to Sanam Luang, and passes Ratchdamnoen Klang Road on the way, which is very close to Khao San Road. The route is handy for connections to the Skytrain, the metro and the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai), and it passes Pratunam) on the way. 6-7 baht.

- Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 3 goes to the Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit) and passes by Chakrabongse Road (at the western side of Khao San Road). The trip costs 7 baht and takes approximately 30 minutes.

- Ordinary bus 15 takes you from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (near Khao San Road) to Siam Square.

- Ordinary bus 53 goes from Phra Athit Road near the express boat pier to Hualamphong Train Station, taking an interesting and convoluted route through Rattanakosin and Yaowarat. It costs 7 baht and takes 30 minutes or more depending on traffic.

- Air-conditioned bus 511 travels right across the city from the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai) via Sukhumvit and Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (near Khao San Road) to the Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai). Warning: Ordinary (non-express) buses pass by Ratchdamnoen Klang Road, but express buses (with yellow signs) do not!

- Air-conditioned bus 509 travels from Mor Chit Bus Terminal, passing through Victory Monument (BTS) and Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (near Khao San Road), terminating at Bang Khae (in Thonburi).

The bus is the easiest way to get to Khao San Road from the airport. The half hourly airport bus A2 departs from the first floor. Buy a ticket for 150 baht from the ticket booth before boarding. The ride takes about 45 minutes, but can be an hour or longer depending on traffic. The bus drops you off at Chakrabongse Road, slightly south of the corner with Khao San Road. To get to the airport, get back here and order a ticket from the booth.

Another, far cheaper (although more fiddly) option is to use a local bus to get to Khao San Road. From the airport, catch the shuttle bus for free outside door 5 (on both the upper and lower floors) to the Public Transport Interchange. From there, catch bus 556 (33 baht) which will drop you off about halfway between Khao San Road and the Democracy Monument. To get to the airport, catch bus 556 (again 33 baht), which departs from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, about halfway between Khao San Road and the Democracy Monument (look for the half-torn airplane sign on the bus stop sign). It will drop you off at the Public Transport Interchange, where you can catch a free shuttle bus to the terminal. These buses may be local, but often they are just as fast as the tourist bus.

By taxi
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Even some of the metered taxis will try to charge you a flat rate of about 200-300 baht to take you to Khao San Road, rather than use the meter (which would mean no more than an 80 baht fare from Silom, or 100-150 baht from Sukhumvit). The drivers will claim that Khao San Road is "too far away" for the meter, but that's not true; the fact is, they can get away with overcharging tourists, and if you don't take it, the next schmuck down the street might. You should refuse to pay that amount and find an honest driver — there is no shortage of taxis in Bangkok. There is no point trying to haggle, as the meter is always cheaper.

As a general rule, older drivers tend to be more amenable to the meters, while the younger ones tend to gun for big fares from tourists. Also avoid the parked taxis (dishonest drivers prefer to wait for gullible tourists) and hail a moving taxi (red light on the dash board indicates if they are available). The majority of taxis are new (less than two years old), and its best to avoid the older taxis as their air-conditioners function poorly, and these drivers tend to be less reliable. The great majority of taxi drivers are reasonably honest though, so always opt for a taxi instead of a tuk-tuk.

Coming from the airport, a metered taxi should cost no less than 300 baht, if using the toll roads (known by Thais as toll way) which cost up to 65 baht. Traffic during the day can make the toll roads very worthwhile, as they will save time and money. The trip takes around 45 minutes in good traffic, but allow considerable leeway during rush hour as the area around Khao San can get very congested.

See
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Although there aren't any famous historical sites to speak of on the road itself, Khao San is a part of Rattanakosin and actually one of the oldest neighborhoods of Bangkok. Around the street, there are a number of old shophouses and noteworthy temples. Aside from the interesting architecture, the area shows a mix of peoples and heritages that is typical for Bangkok. There are Buddhists, Chinese, Muslims, Mons, and of course a great number of foreigners in this small part of the city. All of this makes the area an interesting place for a glimpse of Thai life.

- Democracy Monument (อนุสาวรีย์ประชาธิปไตย Anusawari Prachathipatai), Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd (at the Ratchadamnoen Klang Road and Dinso Road intersection). Completely occupying a roundabout on a major thoroughfare is the Democracy Monument. Its distinguishing features are the four 'wings' which are located at four equally spaced points around a smaller central shrine. The wings are decorated with artworks of war and war-related events. Quite impressive when seen from a distance (especially at sunrise and sunset), but maybe not worth the hazard involved in running across five lanes of Bangkok traffic for a closer look. It commemorates the June 1932 military coup d'etat that led to the country's first democratic constitution in place of absolute rule. Demonstrators gathered here in 1973, 1976 and 1992 in their struggle for democracy, signifying the important role this monument has played in recent Thai history. Free.

- October 14 Memorial (อนุสรณ์สถาน 14 ตุลา), 14/16 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd (at the Ratchadamnoen Klang Road and Tanao Road intersection). 14 October 1973 is one of the most important dates in modern Thai history. Millions of pro-democracy protesters gathered at Ratchadamnoen Klang Road against the military dictatorship of Thanom Kittikachorn. The junta attacked the masses with snipers from rooftops killing dozens of civilians. Eventually the regime was toppled and Thailand became a constitutional monarchy. This memorial commemorates those who died that day, as well as those that died at similar protests in 1976 and 1992. You can read more about this hectic period in Thai history in the small museum. Free.

- Phra Sumen Fort (ป้อมพระสุเมรุ), Phra Athit Rd (inside Santichaiprakarn Park). Best viewed from Santichaiprakarn Park, Phra Sumen Fort is one of two remaining towers of the historic city wall that once surrounded Rattanakosin Island completely (the other being Mahakan Fort). The historic city wall that followed the Chao Phraya River and Khlong Rop Krung used to have fourteen of these watchtowers, but twelve of them have not endured the test of time. Phra Sumen Fort was constructed in 1783 during the reign of King Rama I to protect the city from potential foreign naval invasions. The fort has an observation tower and two levels of battlements with its original canons still in place. Free.

- Santichaiprakarn Park (พระที่นั่งและสวนสาธารณะสันติชัยปราการ), Phra Athit Rd (near Phra Arthit pier). 5AM-10PM daily. This small, green park has a great view of the Chao Phraya River and the ultra-modern Rama VIII suspension bridge that crosses it. There's an open-air pavilion, the Phra Sumen Fort and (supposedly) the last two lamphu trees of the area (these trees used to be all over Banglamphu, as that's where the district got its name from). Activities held in the park include Thai classical music, juggling and (at 6PM) aerobic exercises. The park has also become a gathering place for breakdancers to exchange their techniques. Free.

- Sunset Street Art Gallery, 199 Khao San Rd (inside the Sunset Street complex), +66-2-282-2565(-4), [2]. 12AM-10PM daily. Yes, there is one sight on Khao San Road itself and unsurprisingly, it is an art gallery. This colonial-style interior has plenty of paintings on the wall, most of them in a kind of traditional Thai-style. It is quite small, but still fun for a short visit. Free.

- Wat Bowonniwet (วัดบวรนิเวศ), Bowonniwet Rd (at the corner of Bowonniwet Road and Phra Sumen Road), +66-2-281-2831(-3). 8AM-5PM daily. Built in 1829, this is the shrine-hall of Phra Phutthachinnasi, a very beautiful Buddha image that was created around 1357. This is one of the most important temples of Bangkok, whose one-time chief abbot was King Rama IV before he ascended the throne. King Rama IV and King Rama VII, as well as HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej resided here during their monkhood. Be careful in the afternoon, you must take your shoes off, but the ground can start to cook from the heat. Wearing socks could be a good idea. Free.

- Wat Chana Songkhram (วัดชนะสงคราม, also known as War Victory Temple), Soi Chana Songkhram (opposite the western end of Khao San Road). Centuries ago, following a war with the Burmese, the Thai government gave land in this area to people from the Mon minority who had fought beside the Thai. The Mon established a community here, including this temple. Many travelers use the temple grounds as a shortcut between Khao San Road and Phra Athit Road where the ferry pier is located. The temple is worth a visit, though, with nice murals, crisp sounding temple bells hanging from the eves, Bougainvillea vines and beautiful trees. There is no charge for admission and you are welcome to pay respect to the Buddha images or just find a little tranquility away from the throngs of backpackers on Khao San proper. Free.

Do
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Activities on Khao San Road are not particularly high class. Many backpackers just chill out in a cafe and watch reruns of Friends while sipping a cold Chang beer. People-watching is also a major activity; this can be done in many roadside bars and pubs along Khao San Road. When all this becomes too stressful, there are plenty of massage parlors around.

Learn
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- May Kaidee's 2 Cooking School, 33 Samsen Rd (near the intersection with Samsen Soi 1), +66-8-9137-3173, [3]. 9AM-1PM, 1PM-5PM daily. A vegetarian and vegan cooking school in the Samsen area north of Khao San Road. You'll shop at the local market to pick fresh ingredients and learn meat-free traditional Thai recipes (as well as unique food such as the delicious pumpkin hummous). The owner has been an experienced vegan cook for many years and has a recipe book available for purchase. Those interested need to give at least a day or so advance notice (if lucky, you can just try to show up at the morning session and they might let you in). The school also has a restaurant with many vegetarian dishes and as a guest house attached to it. 1200 baht/day.

- Sor. Vorapin Gym Muay Thai School, 13 Trok Kasap (at the end of a dusty alley off Soi Rambuttri), +66-2-282-3551, [4]. 7:30AM-9:30AM and 3PM-5PM daily. If you dare, you might want to learn muay thai (Thai boxing). Beginners and walk-ins are welcome. Shorts and gloves are provided at the course. The English instruction may not be too detailed, but key phrases like "punch", "kick", and "one-two" are in place. Wear protection though! If this all gets a bit too heavy for you, it's also possible to sit outside and watch the trainings take place. Saves you 1000 baht on an actual muay thai match! 400 baht.

Buy
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Obviously the first place to go shopping is Khao San Road itself. Beside the usual tourist crowd, plenty of locals come here for shopping as well. Simple stores line up the street selling dresses, shirts, skirts, accessories, shoes and bags, usually for a bargain. Many of these are in vintage style, as that's popular among the Khao San crowd. There are also the usual souvenir and handicrafts stores.

Hill tribe women dressed in ethnic clothing walk up and down Khao San Road all day, usually with croaking sounds that come from their ornamental frogs. They approach tourists all day, trying to sell them stuff like accessories, hammocks and ethnic handicrafts. They are quite friendly, and back off with a clear "no", but once they know you're interested, many of these sellers congregate around you hoping to make some profit.

Always beware of getting ripped off. Never buy anything valuable in this area as there are many scams and tricks being played. Khao San Road is home to many wholesale silver jewelry stores, but don't even think about buying there. A common scam is to ask a lot more for a gem than its real value. Touts for suits approach all men walking along Khao San Road, but never go with them — getting tailored clothes in Khao San Road is a complete waste of money as quality is extremely poor. If you really want a suit, head to downtown for better alternatives (see Silom for more information).

Other problematic products for sale include counterfeit clothes, pirated movies and even fake diplomas; the authorities here don't seem to care, but you probably will get in trouble once you arrive in your home country. The Banglamphu Market north of Khao San Road is a good place to pick up cheap Thai knock-offs of everything, from jeans to Italian sneakers, as well as a few posh Thai silk stores. Food stalls are also abound in this area.

Books
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As plenty of travelers use Khao San Road as their base on the way to the beaches, most of Bangkok's second hand book stores have congregated in this area. Expect dusty stores with books completely worn out — but usually prices are remarkably cheaper than elsewhere. Some of the newer book stores around have a fresher appearance and even sell new books. On the market are the usual English fiction titles, including backpacker favorites like The Beach. If you're into a non-fiction, get one of the titles on Southeast Asian history and culture.

- Book Lover, 60 Soi Rambuttri (before the bend in the street if you're walking from Chakrabongse Road; no sign is up, but the shop has an all-white appearance). Tu-Su noon-10:30PM. One of the cleaner and more organized book stores in the area. They have a great selection of titles on history of the countries in Southeast Asia. Of course they also have the usual stack of fiction titles, travel guides and useful maps, and they have titles in many other languages. The staff is nice and more helpful than in other bookstores. When you buy a book, they will mark it; at a later date, you can sell it back to them for half the price.

- Bookazine, 62 Khao San Rd (opposite Shaman Books), +66-2-280-3785, [5]. Till 10PM. Another branch of the Bookazine chain, this one right on Khao San Road. Beside English-language books and travel guides, they have a fairly large stock of foreign newspapers and magazines. Also English-language newspapers about Thailand are for sale here. It is only a small shop, so you might be done browsing rather quickly.

- Moonlight Book Shop, 46/1 Khao San Rd (in the alley that goes to Hippie de Bar). 11AM-11PM daily. Not so much a book store, more like an alleyway with many used books for sale. It's a typical Khao San Road-store that sells easy to read fiction titles that must get you through those long bus or train journeys. All the usual hippie and backpacker favorites are available.

- Rim Khob Fa Books (ร้านหนังสือริมขอบฟ้า raan nang-seu rim kop faa), 78/1 Ratchadamoen Klang Rd (at the Democracy Monument roundabout), +66-2-662-3510 (rimkhobfa@yahoo.com). 10AM-7PM daily. This is a big and upscale store that looks a lot more professional than the other book stores around Khao San Road. Most of its customers are Thai students who come for the large stock of English-language academic books on languages, arts and history. But they also have plenty of general interest books, such as travel guides and cultural books.

- Shaman Books, 71 Khao San Rd (opposite Bookazine), +66-2-629-0418, [6]. 8AM-11PM daily. Biggest bookstore of Khao San Road, very dusty and seems uncompelling, but has the largest collection of used books. It has the typical English language novels and classics, but also, as the name 'Shaman' suggests, an excellent collection of religion, meditation and culture books. Some shelves have books in Dutch, German, Spanish and Scandinavian languages. A used copy of Homer's "The Odyssey" costs around 150-200 baht. The staff seems uninterested, but you can just browse yourself. They also opened a second branch in Susie Walking Street.

- Ton's Bookseller, 327/5 Rambuttri Rd (around the corner on the left side if coming from Chakrabongse Road). Till 8PM. This small book store only has one lane of general knowledge books in English as the left corridor is filled with books in Thai. At least there is a good selection of books on politics and the Thai language, along with cultural, historical and religious books about Thailand and Southeast Asia. Also a small amount of fiction titles.

Eat
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:

Budget

Under 100 baht

Mid-range

100-500 baht

Splurge

Over 500 baht

Khao San Road offers some of the cheapest and most diverse food selections anywhere in Bangkok. Travelers from all over the world attend the road, so there is a high demand for all kinds of ethnic food. Alongside the usual Thai dishes, Indian, Italian and Jewish cuisine are especially well-represented, as are restaurants specialized in vegetarian food.

Street carts on the road sell decent pad thai (fried noodles), quail eggs, roti (like a pancake), falafel, hummus, various bugs and some sell just cocktails. However, it's worth noting that much of it is specifically geared for backpackers — even the local pad thai, especially the 10 baht variety, saves money on the ingredients and uses soy sauce instead of the traditional tamarind sauce.

As Khao San Road leaves its backpacker roots, standards (and prices) are rising. In the last ten years, many popular international food outlets have set up branches in Khao San Road, including Burger King, McDonald's and Subway. More mid-range restaurants are opened on a daily basis, but don't expect to splurge. Those looking for truly good food would be advised to head elsewhere, such as to Sukhumvit.

Budget
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- Chabad House Kosher Restaurant, 96 Rambuttri Rd (in the middle of Rambuttri Road), +66-2-629-2754(-5), [7]. Su-Th 10AM-10PM, F 10AM-3PM. This restaurant is part of an international Hasidic chain with more than 2000 branches all over the world. It is ideal for Jewish travelers that keep kosher. There is a large meat menu with the opportunity to taste some great kosher Thai cuisine. Or get a schnitzel with hummus. Finally something different than the usual pad thai that's on every street corner! They also have a synagogue (services daily at 10AM) and a small store, where you can purchase packet soups, matza, and other kosher items. 50-100 baht.

- May Kaidee's, 111 Soi Bowonrangsi (in the alley behind Burger King), +66-2-281-7699, [8]. 9AM-11PM daily. One of the best vegetarian restaurants in the area. Has been serving hippie-types since 1988. Ordering is straightforward, as you can just pick a dish from the laminated placemat with photos. Try the papaya salad. You can also follow a cooking class here or buy a cookbook. 30-50 baht.

- Mr Yim's, Soi Rambuttri (opposite Merry V guest house, right at the temple wall). Mr. Yim had to move out of his building and now sells his food as a (permanent) street vendor at the same corner, using the temple wall as the back wall of his place. Food is still a great value, with a wide selection of quality products, including veggie options. The big baguettes, and the breakfast, are well worth it. 30-70 baht.

- Oh My Cod!, Rambuttri Village Inn Bldg, 95d Soi Rambuttri (in the middle of Soi Rambuttri), +66-2-282-6553, [9]. 7:30AM-11PM daily. An ultra-clean and modern British cafe. It is inside the bricked courtyard at the entrance to Rambuttri Village Inn, where the noise of the alley fades away. There's plenty of food available, like burgers, steak, fish and chips, and eggs. They can also make a special order on request. They have plasma screen televisions and a friendly staff. 60-100 baht.

- Popiang House, 43 Soi Rambuttri (in the middle of Soi Rambuttri), +66-2-282-2628. Open 24 hours. A typical Khao San Road restaurant that is actually on Soi Rambuttri. It's a street restaurant with red plastic chairs and cheap yellow tables. Mostly known by backpackers for delicious seafood; their grilled fish is a good option. It is also a great place to meet other backpackers while enjoying a cheap beer (only 50 baht for a large one). As a result, it can be crowded on evenings. 60 baht.

- Roti-Mataba, 136 Phra Athit Rd (in front of Phra Sumen Fort), +66-2-282-2119. Tu-Su 9AM-10PM. This immensely popular eatery is one of the few in the area serving Thai-Muslim dishes, such as roti, mataba (a kind of stuffed pancake) and massaman curry. Sitting downstairs gives the best local experience, as you can smell the food being prepared and it feels very cramped. Upstairs has air-conditioning and is more comfortable. A bit of a downer is that the snacks are fairly small, so order two or more meals if you are really hungry. 50-100 baht.

- Sakura House, 4F, 98/1 Rambuttri Rd (opposite Viengtai Hotel; enter the small alley of the clinic in between both spaces of Suksabai and take the lift to the fourth floor), +66-2-282-0303. A little hard to find Japanese restaurant, but definitely worth it once you do. It's popular among the locals for lunch and dinner, as visitors can sit at wooden tables the traditional Japanese way. For the rest, it doesn't look all that special, but it is cheap, the staff is nice and free water is served. The Japanese dishes are delicious; ask the staff for recommendations, or try the okonomiyaki, it's good. 40 baht.

- Take-a-Seat (formerly Take-a-Sit), 90 Phra Athit Rd (near the corner with Soi Chana Songkhram), +66-2-766-6102. 8AM-11:30PM daily. Simple and clean eatery with Thai and international dishes. The interior looks basic, but that's all you need to enjoy a good meal. Don't expect any English from the staff, but the menu is in English and has pictures, so you can just point to the dish of your choice. Try the green curry fried rice. 50-80 baht.

- Wild Orchid Villa, 8 Soi Chana Songkhram (in the alley between Soi Rambuttri and Phra Athit Road), +66-2-629-4378, [10]. Open 24 hours. A good restaurant that offers green and red curries, and delicious tom yum soups at fairly low prices. Some of the curries can be spicy! It has a nice interior with either wooden chairs or lounge couches. Excellent for people-watching if you take a seat near the sidewalk. They could turn the volume of the music down a bit for lunch though. It is also a newly renovated guest house, and rooms go for 700-1500 baht depending on facilities. 80-150 baht.

Mid-range
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- Aquatini Bar & Restaurant, Navalai River Resort, 45/1 Phra Athit Rd (right in front of Phra Arthit pier), +66-2-280-9955, [11]. 6:30AM-1AM daily. Part of the Navalai River Resort, this luxury restaurant with Thai and Western dishes has river views over the Chao Phraya River. The interior of the indoor bar has random postmodern touches. It's best to stick to outdoors though, as the deck gives the best views. The breeze, trees and light music make the ambiance chilled out. Mostly foreigners visit this place, and the staff make it feel a bit like being inside a resort (well, which you are). The kitchen sure knows how to keep their dishes true to the Thai tongue, though. Try the tom kha kai — it's whiter than white. 300-400 baht. (13°45'48.30N,100°29'38.83E)

- Ethos, 85/2 Soi Bowonrangsi (in the alley behind Burger King), +66-2-282-2748, [12]. 9AM-10PM daily. This is a unique place with an attitude! No MSG, preservatives or artificial colors and flavors, instead you'll be eating organic dishes from Thai, Indian, Italian and Middle Eastern cuisine. A comfortable place that attracts crowds who are into spirituality and yoga. It has a free WiFi hotspot. Also try the coffee and deserts. Some of the waiters can be rude, however. 150 baht.

- La Casa, 210 Khao San Rd (opposite Mulligan's Irish Pub), +66-2-629-1627. Noon-midnight daily. Italian restaurant with quite a professional outlook. It's interesting how they mixed Thai elements like Buddha images into the European interior. The pizzas are good, but skip the pastas. It must be said that compared to other restaurants, you get fairly little for what you pay. But at least you have views on Khao San Road itself. Try the Calzone, a pizza that's folded over before being cooked in the oven. 275 baht.

- Mayompuri, 22 Chakrabongse Rd (near Gazebo Club), +66-2-629-3883(-4), [13]. 3PM-midnight daily. Mayompuri is Khao San Road's most luxurious restaurant, although it is still affordable by any means. It's all about the interior, which is absolutely stunning — it looks like a five-star resort with waterfalls, ponds, and beautiful gardens. Visit the place after dark as that's when it looks best. The atmosphere is calm and relaxed music is played, which makes it feel far away from the busy chaos of the road. The food, while good, may be a little bland and simple. There are all kinds of international dishes available, such as spaghetti bolognese, steak, fish and chips, papaya salad and river prawn soup. A good way to experience the atmosphere without the food is to just have a beer at the bar. 350 baht.

- Ranee's, 77 Trok Mayom (in the small alley south of Khao San Road), +66-2-282-4072. 7AM-midnight daily. Hidden amongst spas and small bars and restuarants down an alley that runs parallel to Khao San Road, this Italian restaurant offers the usual pizzas and pastas, though you will be better served making a selection from the Thai dishes. The curries are delicious, though the jungle curry is made on a watery base and not on a coconut base that is usual in Thailand. Serving sizes are sufficient but not large. When ordering pizza, a downer is that the cutlery will be served on top of the pizza, making it greasy. The WiFi is free of charge. 150 baht.

- Saffron, 86 Phra Athit Rd (take a right from Soi Chana Songkhram, opposite the FAO office), +66-2-281-4228. 8AM-9PM daily. European-style interior with all the typical Thai dishes. It's also a bakery, and their pies are just waiting to be eaten (try the carrot cake!). Just be warned that many of their dishes and drinks are low-fat and low-sugar, so Thai tea doesn't taste that good. Their menus are loved by vegetarians. 100 baht.

- Sara Restaurant, Nouvo City Hotel, 2 Samsen Soi 2 (just a few meters inside Samsen Soi 2, across May Kaidee's 2), +66-2-282-7500(-108), [14]. 6AM-10PM daily. A long-standing restaurant that is part of the Nouvo City Hotel. The interior is decorated in a modern boutique style that gives a romantic ambiance. The friendly staff serves Thai, Indian and international cuisine. 400-500 baht.

- Thamna, 175 Samsen Rd (between Samsen Soi 3 and 5), +66-2-282-4979. M closed. Many who are looking for May Kadee's 2, but cannot find it, stumble across this gem. There's some excellent vegetarian and organic food here that even the most notorious meat eater would enjoy. There's a kind of homey and cozy feel with a nice staff. The owner lived in Chicago previously and speaks good English. Try the mushroom curry. 100-120 baht.

- Tom Yum Kung, 9 Trok Mayom (at the police station side of Khao San Road), +66-2-629-2772, [15]. 11AM-2AM daily. Named after Thailand's national dish, it is one of the best restaurants the area has to offer. It's gigantic neon sign may seem cheesy, but the restaurant itself is actually one of the classiest along Khao San Road. Its square is decorated in traditional Thai style, where the noise of the road cannot be heard. Try some of their authentic Thai dishes, like tom yam goong or som tam, or one of their excellent fish menus (which get you stuffed for sure). 100 baht.

Drink
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Cafes
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You might like a freshly brewed coffee in the early morning, or some coconut juice or iced chocolate to cool you down in the hot afternoon. There are plenty of cafes serving these on Khao San Road; Coffee World is across from McDonald's in Buddy's Shopping Plaza and there is a Starbucks in a nice converted house inside the Sunset Street alley in the middle of the road.

Go to Phra Athit Road for a more sophisticated way of getting some caffeine. It is home to many colonial-style townhouses and shophouses that have been turned into artsy cafes and restaurants.

- Coffee and More, 102/1 Phra Athit Rd (at the ground floor of Baan Phra Athit), +66-2-280-7887. M-F 10AM-9:30PM, Sa-Su 11AM-11PM. A pleasant cafe overlooking a garden; it is modern, but with a cozy decor. They have a wide selection of coffees, teas and great cakes. Breakfast options limited though. Especially popular with young up-and-coming Thais.

- Ricky's Coffee Shop, 22 Phra Athit Rd (in the same complex as New Merry V Guesthouse), +66-2-846-3011. 8AM-10PM daily. There are a number of Ricky's Coffee Shops, but this is the original one at Phra Athit Road. It is a nice place to relax with a cup of coffee (or a cold afternoon beer). They also have Western and Thai dishes, and while they seem simple, they taste really good (try the rice with cashew nuts!). You can also try one of their delicious sandwiches. Its interior is impressive, a bit like an old Chinese-style tea house.

Bars and pubs
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One night in Khao San

While there is much more to see in Bangkok than Khao San... yeah yeah, blah blah, we all know that. Party time! Khao San Road has some of the best bars in town and spending one night of your trip here is a must.

You might want to start with a romantic dinner and views over the Chao Phraya River. No place does this better than Aquatini Bar and Restaurant. If you want to save some money, but still want to have an excellent meal, try the seafood at Tom Yum Kung.

Probably one of the most enjoyable activities on Khao San Road is people-watching. Center Khao Sarn has the best views of the bunch with many roadside seats. Mulligans is a worthy alternative, and great for conversation as there's no music outside.

We've seen enough of Khao San Road, so time to head elsewhere. The locals flock to live performance bars and so should you — Adhere the 13th if you're into blues and jazz happens at Jazz Happens!. If live music is not your thing, head to Bangkok Bar, which is also popular among the locals.

Most bars close around 1AM, but if you haven't had enough just yet, head for Gazebo Club. It is a unique rooftop club in Middle Eastern style that doesn't close until the early hours. Still not done? Just head back to Center Khao Sarn or Mulligans where you can wash a cold Chang beer down 24/7.

Khao San Road has some of the cheapest bars in town, and these days even Thais head down to knock back a few. Khao San bars are mostly about relaxing — just sitting outside, looking at people and enjoying the atmosphere. Some just walk around with a beer in their hand; a can of Chang beer is 25 baht at 7-Eleven. Worth a look are a few street side VW vans converted to mobile bars, serving cocktails made from cheap liquor.

The tourist crowd has spread to both Soi Rambuttri and Rambuttri Road in the north. Both of them have a relaxed pace great for people-watching. The bars have many seats lined up along the sidewalk, and the music is slightly toned down for casual conversation. If you want to go where the locals go, there are some artsy/indie bars at Phra Athit Road and Ratchadamnoen Klang Road popular with local art students.

- 999 West (formerly Susie Pub), 108/5-6 Rambuttri Rd (in the alley known as Susie Walking Street), +66-2-282-4459. 11AM-2AM daily. The pub that started it all, when it still had its old name Susie Pub. It is big and dark, usually packed, and playing pop music. It is very popular among Thai locals. The owners of the pub have branched out to owning Austin Pub, Tom Yum Kung and The Club. Don't forget your ID as it is sometimes checked upon entry.

- Adhere the 13th, 13 Samsen Rd (walk north along Chakrabongse Road, cross the bridge and you will find the bar at your left-hand side), +66-8-9769-4613. 6PM-midnight daily. Adhere the 13th is one of those typical small blues bars that is all about the music. There is always a band playing on the live stage, so visiting this one is an absolute must if you're into blues. But even for those who are not that much into it, the intimate atmosphere and tight spaces are an interesting experience for everyone. It's all about listening, and customers even tone their voice to actually hear and appreciate the music.

- Bangkok Bar, Rambuttri Rd (next to Suksabai Bar), +66-2-629-4443. 6PM-1AM daily. This popular pub moved eastwards in 2009, from Soi Rambuttri to the middle of Rambuttri Road. The bar can get very crowded on Fridays and Saturdays. Not just foreigners know about this place, there are many Thai locals who visit it as well. A Chang beer is 70 baht, but the locals seem to be drinking bottles of scotch (or cocktails).

- Center Khao Sarn, 80-84 Khao San Rd (in the middle of Khao San Road's south side), +66-2-282-4366. Open 24 hours. Easily the best spot for people-watching on Khao San Road. It's probably the largest venue, in the middle of the street, with its seats right beside the road; and it's always open. It's a great place to chat, sip a beer and lose track of time. There's also a pool table and simple dishes are served. And if you run out of money, there's an ATM at both sides of the bar.

- Gulliver's Traveler's Tavern, 2/2 Khao San Rd (at the corner of Khao San Road and Chakrabongse Road), +66-2-629-1988, [16]. 11AM-1AM daily. Nowadays one might associate this kind of bar more with Sukhumvit, however this is actually the first Gulliver's and it is right at Khao San Road. It is a sports pub with billiards, and being well-known among the backpacker community, this is a place to swap stories. Beer is at rather steep prices for Khao San though, around 150 baht a pint. They also offer some mid-range priced Western food. The atmosphere is quite relaxed at daytime, while it gradually turns into a rather wild dance party as the night wears on.

- Hippie de Bar, 46 Khao San Rd (follow the Tom Yum Kung neon sign), +66-1-820-3762. 11AM-1AM daily. Psychedelic interior with mismatched furniture, but not really hippie style. Outside is a nice place to chill with a beer or cocktail. It's a bit off the main street, so no noise from there, but the reggae and tropical music are a bit too loud for a casual conversation.

- Jazz Happens!, 2F, Bar Bali Pub and Restaurant Bldg, 58 Phra Athit Rd (take a left after coming from Soi Chana Songkhram and cross the street), +66-2-282-9934. 6PM-midnight daily. Some good live jazz played by Thai jazz students along with their professor. It is a collaboration with Silpakorn University's "Faculty of Jazz". Very popular among the locals, but foreigners do not seem to know about it. It has recently enlarged and now has two live music stages, one upstairs and one downstairs. It's best to come around 9PM as that's when the night really starts to kick in.

- Molly Bar, 108 Rambuttri Rd (on the road that runs parallel to Khao San Road in the north), +66-2-629-4074. 1PM-1AM daily. There's a really relaxed vibe in this colonial-style bar, that has been around for quite some time now. In the evening, there is a band playing in the corner; don't expect a quality band, but the live music does give this bar its laid-back feel. There are lots of seats outside, so it is a nice alternative for people-watching along Khao San Road. And there's a lot to see, as a diverse group of customers attend, including locals.

- Mulligans Irish Bar, 2F, Buddy's Shopping Plaza, 265 Khao San Rd (inside the Buddy Shopping Plaza), +66-2-629-4477, [17]. Open 24 hours. Opened in 2009, this Irish pub has a daily promotion between 8PM and 2AM, when a large beer or a cocktail sets you back 110 baht. The area downstairs is relaxed, and right beside the road, so a great place for talking and people-spotting. There is no music downstairs, but the atmosphere is still good as soft music comes from the other side of the street. Upstairs is a large Irish pub. There are often live performances there or you can just play the arcades.

- Reggae Bar, Trok Mayom (where Trok Mayom meets Damnoen Klang Nuea Road), [18]. 3PM-1AM daily. Nice relaxing al fresco atmosphere where you can get a cold beer and some smokes while listening to Bob Marley all day. DJ Chicken performs, so you're in for a good night. You can also just watch football at the big screen or play some pool. At daytime only the small street side front of the bar opens, so you might want to kick in after dinner.

- Sabai Bar, 197 Khao San Rd (at the mouth of the Sunset Street complex), +66-2-282-5893, [19]. 8AM-2AM daily. This Thai and Western bar and restaurant offers a good view on the road. Its interior looks modern and there are many black and white cushions you can sit on. It's a relaxing place to just sit, relax and knock back a few beers or cocktails.

- Sawasdee House, 147 Soi Rambuttri (at the corner of Soi Rambuttri and Chakrabongse Road), +66-2-281-8138, [20]. Open 24 hours. Another people-watching spot, this time along Soi Rambuttri. While talking is possible, it is a challenge as the music is very loud. It is only the loud music that makes it into a kind of combination between a sidewalk cafe and a pub. The interior looks nice, with traditional Thai elements all around. They have plenty of beers and cocktails for sale, as well as simple Thai dishes to go with them.

- Silk Bar, 129-131 Khao San Road (in the middle of Khao San Road), +66-2-281-9981, [21]. 6AM-1AM daily. Every day after dusk, this place starts to get packed with customers who want to have fun till the early night. It is touted as having the best view on the road, but this is not entirely the case. The bar's location inside a small alley makes it harder to see the road, although the balcony still does a decent job. There is a DJ playing in the evenings, and the music is at a good level, allowing you to talk with other people. They also serve simple Thai dishes.

- Suksabai, 96 Rambuttri Rd (opposite Viengtai Hotel), +66-2-629-0298. Open 24 hours. Suksabai is touted as a restaurant, and they have a large menu with Thai, grill and Italian dishes in the 80-130 baht price range. While decent for budget travelers, the real attraction of this place is its sidewalk bar. Seats are lined up onto the main road every night, which makes it is a good place to hang out, talk and watch football on the big screens. Beer and cocktails here are slightly cheaper than on Khao San Road; a large Chang beer goes for 80 baht. It's best to only go inside for the toilet, as its interior is rather uninspiring and messy.

- Sunset Bar and Garden Restaurant, 199 Khao San Rd (at the back of the Sunset Street complex), +66-2-282-5823, [22]. 8AM-2AM daily. More upclass than the other bar/restaurants around Khao San Road, it is in a little courtyard away from the road, which makes it a nice place to escape from the chaos. The courtyard and the building is in a nice European Mediterranean-style, and they have the usual coffee and beer. It is also a good place to eat, with some mid-ranged Thai and international cuisine on offer. There are live music performances from Thursdays to Sundays.

- Tak Sura (ตักสุรา), 156/1 Tanao Rd (walk south along Tanao Rd from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road; it will be at the right after about 200 meters, and you have to walk through a small alley first; there's only a Thai sign up), +66-2-622-0708. 6PM-1AM daily. While the locals at first weren't interested in the dingy foreigner ghetto known as Khao San Road, over time it has gained status among Bangkok's indie and artsy types as the place to hang out. Tak Sura is one of those places where the locals go — most of them art students from Silpakorn University. The place is located in a mansion that's easily one hundred years old; but most people just sit outside on the white patio furniture.

Nightclubs
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Bangkok's nightlife has a hard time living up to its notorious reputation — and Khao San Road is no different. While many sidewalk cafes are open 24 hours, nightclubs close early at 1AM. The only exception to this rule seems to be Gazebo Club, so many of the Khao San vagabonds go there when the rest of the bunch closes down. You can also hail a cab and go to downtown, as more nightclubs there stay open until the early hours. Always bring your passport as all nightclubs are required to check it at entry.

- Brick Bar, GF, Buddy's Shopping Plaza, 265 Khao San Rd (at the far end of Buddy's Shopping Plaza), +66-2-629-447. 8PM-1AM daily. Brick Bar is an underground ska and reggae bar with live music performances. Its interior is in an old-fashioned Western style. It is very popular with the locals, and extremely crowded in weekends. Bring your ID as they won't let you in without it. 150 baht.

- Gazebo Club and Restaurant, 44 Chakrabongse Rd (near the Airport Express bus stop), +66-2-629-0705, [23]. 8PM-6AM daily. This is the most popular after-hours club of Khao San Road. It stays open way longer than the other clubs, so it gets really crowded after 1AM. It has a nice atmosphere, decorated completely in a kind of Moroccan and Arabic setting (including waterpipes). Music is a combination of hiphop, house, electro and trance. Expect a hefty bill though, as just one Heineken Longneck sets you back 200 baht. Ladies usually have free entry. 300 baht including one drink.

- Lava Club, 249 Khao San Rd (in the middle of Khao San Road), +66-2-281-6565, [24]. 8PM-1AM daily. Go down the steps to one of the more modern clubs on the road. The interior is kind of funky, with red "lava" colors making it feel like you've gone beneath the surface of the Earth. If you like R&B and hip hop music, you'll have a blast. Sunday nights are good. Prices of the drinks are lower than the clubs in Sukhumvit and RCA, but higher than elsewhere along Khao San Road. Admission free.

- Sanook Bar, 199 Khao San Rd (inside the Sunset Street complex), +66-2-281-9881, [25]. 6PM-2AM daily. This is a very small club. It is so small that it actually seems to be more like a VIP room. It has a modern interior with lots of flashy lights and colors. There's a pool table and often live music. Admission free.

- The Club, 123 Khao San Rd (in the middle of Khao San Road), +66-2-629-1010, [26]. 11AM-1AM daily. One of the better clubs on Khao San Road, and you can't miss it, as it has a huge neon purple sign. It is an Ibiza-style club that basically consists of one large room in Italian style. It might feel a bit overdone and pretentious for Western crowds, but Thai locals flock to this place in large numbers. Music styles played are house, electro, techno and trance. Admission free.

Sleep
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:

Budget

Under 1000 baht

Mid-range

1000 baht to 2500 baht

Splurge

Over 2500 baht

Khao San Road is Bangkok's main backpacker drag. Cheap new guest houses spring up and disappear on a monthly basis, therefore accommodation is hard to recommend, but there is always something available for a small budget. As hipsters and upper class folks have been starting to discover the road, it is more and more becoming an area that has accommodations for every price class.

Before checking into an unfamiliar place, always ask to see a room first, and don't be afraid to test the fan or the air-conditioning if you think you will need it. Some Khao San Road guest houses do not accept Thai guests, or any extra guests at all in some cases.

Budget
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Most backpackers head straight for Khao San Road as it has by far the cheapest accommodation in all of Bangkok. Don't have high hopes on luxury if you're staying here; most of these places are dark, dingy, unclean and if you're unlucky, you might have to spend the night with bedbugs. Also keep in mind that anything on Khao San Road itself will be loud, and anything with exterior windows will get hot.

Try walking a block or two off Khao San proper to find something a little quieter. Soi Rambuttri, the small street past the police station, has reasonable guest houses, though can still be loud in the evenings. The street gets darker and quieter as it wraps around the temple grounds of Wat Chana Songkhram, where you can find some quiet guest houses. Samsen Road and the surrounding area is another escape from the noise and chaos, with some cheap guest houses at a further distance of the action.

- Bella Bella House, 74 Soi Chana Songkhram (next to the 7-Eleven), +66-2-629-3090(-1). This budget guest house has 25 clean and new, if somewhat spartan rooms. Not the most exciting rooms, but they get the job done. There's no elevator, so take a lower floor room if you're lazy, though the upper floor rooms have a nice view at the rooftops of Wat Chana Songkhram. Internet access, food and beer are all available in the medium-sized restaurant downstairs. 250-550 baht.

- D&D Inn, 68-70 Khao San Rd (at the police station side of Khao San Road), +66 6290 5268, [27]. A huge hotel (by Khao San Road standards) with a roof-top swimming pool, massage facilities, and a very clean and efficient 24 hour internet cafe. All rooms have attached bathrooms, air-conditioning, TV, and rates include breakfast and use of the pool. They do not allow check-in until after 1PM. 750-1100 baht.

- Green House, 84 Rambuttri Rd (right next to Merry V Guesthouse), +66-8-6617-7717, [28]. A simple and functional guest house with 80 rooms close to Khao San Road. Some rooms are cleaner than others, so inspect before checking in. There's a wide range of rooms, including single, double and triple rooms with either fan or air-conditioning. Beside a guest house, it is also a restaurant, travel agency and internet cafe. 410-590 baht.

- K.S. House, 133 Phra Sumen Rd (next to Siam Commercial Bank), +66-2-629-1763. Another budget guest house that offers 55 standard rooms with either a fan or air-conditioning. They have a great cafe/restaurant with nice food set on a rooftop. Breakfast not included even though the website says so. Also, the free WiFi does not reach most rooms. They do have internet terminals in the lobby, but you have to pay a fee to use them. 350-520 baht.

- Khaosan Rainbow Hostel and Guesthouse, 43 Chakrabongse Rd (opposite Gazebo Bar), +66-2-280-6648, [29]. This place is basic, but its priced for it. They have air-conditioned dorm rooms that are good value. Amenities include free WiFi, nice Indian food and beer, and free private security lockers for all guests (you can use your own padlock or borrow one of their's). The noise can be troublesome though for the private rooms in the front near Gazebo Bar, but the dorms in back are quieter. 150 baht.

- Lamphu House, 75 Soi Rambuttri (in the middle of Soi Rambuttri), +66-2-629-5861(-2), [30]. Lamphu House is a resort-style guest house. Even its cheapest rooms have bamboo beds and rattan lamps, giving it a modern and airy feel. Cheap rooms only have a fan, shared bathrooms and no windows, while the more expensive rooms have air-conditioning, ensuite and balconies overlooking the courtyard. A big plus is that you can store your backpack here for about 10 baht a day. You don't need to be a hotel guest to use this service. 400-980 baht.

- Live Good Guesthouse, 81/2 Soi Bowonrangsi, Tanao Rd (in the alley behind Burger King; immediately next to New Central Guesthouse), +66-2-282-5092. A basic and clean guest house. Rooms with shared bathrooms are small and spartan, and there are no power outlets. There are different kinds of rooms, the double fan room goes for 200 baht. There are internet, restaurant and laundry services available downstairs. 100-300 baht.

- NapPark Hostel, 5 Tani Rd (near the Tani Road and Chakrabongse Road intersection), +66-2-282-2324, [31]. Absolutely great place to stay for backpackers as it has a Thai-style homey decoration with Thai cushions and garden surroundings. Rooms are dorms, but the bathrooms are among the cleanest of Khao San Road and there is free high-speed WiFi throughout the building. The English-speaking staff are really nice and ready to help you 24 hours a day. You can chill out at their chic and cozy coffee bar. 570-750 baht per person. (N13 41.576,E100 35.970)

- New Central Guest House (Central Guest House), 81/1 Soi Bowanlungsri, Tanao Rd (in the alley behind Burger King), +66-2-282-0667. This is a very basic guest house with small rooms, but it is very cheap too (and close to Khao San Road). They have no facilities, except for the free WiFi hotspot that is fast and works from inside the room. Toilets can be broken, and then need a bucket to flush. Showers work fine though. The doors are locked at night, so knock hard to wake up the owner and he can let you in. 100-300 baht.

- New Joe Guest House, 81 Trok Mayom (in the middle of Trok Mayom), +66-2-281-2948, [32]. It's a basic guest house with small and simple rooms, but at least they are fairly clean. Try this place if you're just looking for a cheap place to sleep. It has a nice cafe/restaurant attached to it. They have nice Thai and Western food, such as pizzas, and it is set in a garden environment. 350-550 baht.

- New Merry V Guesthouse, 18-20 Phra Athit Rd (it actually is on Soi Rambuttri), +66-629-0462. A good low budget option for the budget conscious traveler. Its aging rooms are divided into fan, air-conditioned and "deluxe" rooms, the latter are more expensive, have a TV and don't face the busy street. The guest house is right in the middle of the action of Soi Rambuttri. They also offer a luggage storage service for 10 baht per bag per day. 200-550 baht.

- New Siam II, 50 Trok Rong Mai (in Trok Rong Mai, right around the corner from Soi Rambuttri), +66-2-281-7461, [33]. One of the best hotels in the Soi Rambuttri area. It is just enough off the main drag to be quiet, but still very close to the action. They advertise as having the largest rooms for the price, and they seem to be right. The rooms are clean and are well-maintained, and the staff is friendly. There are safe boxes in some rooms and lockers downstairs. The restaurant menu is basic and the food not too exciting, but the sofas are good to meet people. 690-840 baht.

- Penpark Place, 22 Samsen Soi 3 (a fair hike inside Soi 3), +66-2-281-4733, [34]. This hotel is quite far from Khao San Road, but on the plus side, that's why this hotel is in such a peaceful environment. It is a clean and quiet place with a nice garden and river view at the rooftop. Rooms are quite large with a wide window. High-speed internet and free WiFi available. A good place to relax, meet friends, and to have an early-morning coffee. 450-750 baht.

- Rambuttri Village Inn, 95 Soi Rambuttri (in the middle of Soi Rambuttri), +66-2-282-9162, [35]. Quiet series of uninspired buildings with small rooms, its main draw is its relaxing rooftop swimming pool. However, their website neglects to mention that it shuts down at 6PM despite alluring photographs suggesting otherwise. Its rooms range from basic fan rooms to "deluxe" air-conditioned rooms. Biggest issue is the staff. If you have a problem, neither staff nor management will care about complaints nor will they offer refunds or compensation, even if it is the hotel's fault. They require a 1000-baht refundable key deposit that can only be paid in cash (Thai baht only). If you cannot produce the deposit, they will not let you in your room even if you have already paid for it beforehand. There is also no WiFi or communal area. 750-880 baht.

- Sawasdee Smile Inn, 35 Trok Rong Mai (from Chakrabongse Road, walk into Trok Kasap and take a left into Trok Rong Mai), +66-2-629-2340, [36]. This hotel has a unique colonial architecture, with more than one hundred rooms available. Sawasdee Hotels is a big chain with plenty of other locations as well. Things can get impersonal, the cleanliness is so-so and rooms are very basic and small. It really is for backpackers only, who do not have a lot of demands. There are other hotels in the area that offer bigger rooms, more amenities and better service for a similar price. 400-680 baht.

- Sawasdee Welcome Inn, 5-7 Trok Rong Mai (from Chakrabongse Road, walk into Trok Kasap and take a left into Trok Rong Mai), +66-2-629-3308, [37]. This is a decent guest house that is quiet, as it is off the busy Soi Rambuttri, but still close enough so you can walk there. Rooms are dark, and you get nothing more than a bed and a sink. Don't expect English-speaking staff either. 300-880 baht.

- Siam Oriental Inn, 190 Khao San Rd (in the middle of Khao San Road), +66-2-629-0312, [38]. Nice, clean and quiet rooms, both fan and air-conditioned, all with a private bathroom. There's a lively restaurant, an internet cafe where you can surf the web for 1 baht per minute and a photo-processing store. Other amenities include laundry, where you have to pay by kilogram, and luggage storage. 280-500 baht.

- Star Dome Inn, 104/1 Rambuttri Rd (in the road that runs parallel to Khao San Road in the north), +66-2-629-1136, [39]. All rooms have a private bathroom with cold water. Hot water is only available in the more expensive rooms. Internet is available for 60 baht per hour and there are laundry facilities. The inn is next to a disco/pub, so expect excessive noise in the lower floor rooms. 400-600 baht.

- Thai Cozy House, 111/1-3 Tani Rd (at the Tani Road and Sip Sam Hang Road intersection), +66-2-629-5870(-4), [40]. Family-run guest house with decent rooms that have cable TV, fridge, air-conditioning and hot shower. Ideal location just far away enough from the crowds, but close enough to the action. They also have plenty of other services, including a restaurant, travel agent and internet. 550-1000 baht.

Mid-range
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There are several mid-range hotels in the area, with swimming pools, mini bars, etc. Mid-range covers a wide spectrum, from decent three-star hotels to upper class guest houses. Phra Athit Road is a good place to start looking, its location right beside the Chao Phraya river made it home to some more luxury hotels.

- Amarin Inn, 96 Trok Surau Chakrabongse (from Santichaiprakarn Park, walk to Phra Sumen Road, then pass the 7-Eleven and you'll see the Amarin Inn sign on the right), +66-2-282-2796, [41]. It is down a long alley — far away from the noise of the main street, but only a few minutes walk from the action. It is fairly clean and spacious rooms of an older style, all with air-conditioning and en-suite bathrooms. Guests are allowed onto the roof to look at the Bangkok skyline, a rarity in the area. WiFi is available on all floors and there is a free internet terminal. 800-1500 baht.

- Bhiman Inn, 55 Phra Sumen Rd (in the middle of Phra Sumen Road), +66-2-282-6171(-5), [42]. This boutique hotel, with a rather odd logo, is a sister hotel of the Viengtai and is a bit cheaper. It is a fifteen-minute walk north of Khao San Road. Staff friendly, good swimming pool, but poor breakfast offering very little choice. 1200-1300 baht.

- Cha Cha Villa, 36 Tani Rd (near the intersection with Chakrabongse Road), +66-2-280-1025(-7), [43]. Nice looking boutique hotel that is especially worth it for its amazing jungle gardens that include a waterfall and a pool. It also has a nice garden restaurant. Rooms have all the amenities, including air-conditioning, cable TV, en-suite bathroom and coffee/tea facilities. The views are a bit deceiving though. Do not leave valuables from your room, as you have to be careful with the cleaning staff. There are also no lockers available. 1450-2750 baht.

- Diamond House, 4 Samsen Rd, +66-2-629-4008, [44]. A chic boutique hotel in the quieter Samsen area. The cheaper-end rooms are not that big and do not have windows. The rooms are clean though, and have cozy Thai atmosphere. Staff is also very helpful if you have questions or problems. A tip is to book this one on their website as their walk-in rates are much higher. 1000-2000 baht.

- Khaosan Palace, 139 Khao San Rd (in the middle of Khao San Road), +66-2-282-0578, [45]. A fairly basic guest house right in the middle of the action with an impressive Thai-style entrance and rooftop pool. The rooms are a bit on the small side, but always clean and include cable television, cold or hot shower and air-conditioning or fan. The pictures on their website do seem nicer than they are in reality though. Big downside of this hotel is the noise from nearby cafes, expect excessive noise till about 4AM if your room is at the road side. 1000 baht.

- New Siam River Side, 21 Phra Athit Rd (opposite Peachy Guesthouse), +66-2-629-3535, [46]. A great location at the banks of the Chao Phraya River, with the express boat pier and the Khao San Road area closeby. If you're willing to pay extra for it, make sure that you actually book a "river view room", as many of the other ones face the road! Rooms are quiet, clean and just good. The breakfast is big and varied, and served buffet-style beside the pool and river. Definitely worth it. The attached restaurant can also be visited by non-guests and mains go for 100 baht or less. 1590-2590 baht.

- New World City Hotel, 2 Samsen Rd (immediately take a right after crossing the canal at Chakrabongse Road), +66-2-281-5596, [47]. This hotel is for those on a lower mid-range budget. Rooms are okay, and some of them have a fun view over the canal. Some rooms are a bit dated though. It's only a short walk to Khao San Road, but is still far enough not to be annoyed by noise. 1200-4500 baht.

- Rikka Inn, 259 Khao San Rd (at Burger King side of Khao San Road), +66-2-282-7511, [48]. New hotel right on Khao San Road with good rooms in a modern style. They have air-conditioning, private toilet and bathroom, but not much more. The swimming pool on the roof is an attraction, but only open from 10AM. Small and large safe deposit boxes available at 20/40 baht per day. The obligatory 1000 baht deposit is uncool though. 1150-1450 baht.

Splurge
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- Baan Chantra, 120/1 Samsen Rd (at the southern end of Samsen Road), +66-2-628-6988(-9), [49]. Baan Chantra is an upmarket hotel in a beautiful Thai historic home dating from 1936. The front rooms overlook the busy road, but it is relatively quiet at night. The rooms are spotless with ensuites, air-conditioning, mini-bar and a full breakfast. The staff is very helpful. 2700-4500 baht.

- Buddy Lodge, BF, Buddy's Shopping Plaza, 265 Khao San Rd (at the Burger King side of Khao San Road), +66-2-629-4477, [50]. This hotel is special as it is one of the few higher budget hotels right on Khao San Road. Rooms are good with fridge, TV, phone and air-conditioning. It has a great rooftop pool, balcony, room service, free WiFi and bar. 2400-3900 baht.

- Navalai River Resort, 45/1 Phra Athit Rd (right in front of Phra Athit pier), +66-2-280-9955, [51]. Great riverside view of the Chao Phraya as you can hear the river flowing. The room looks spectacular; the style of the interior combines Thai traditional design with modern decoration. There's Wi-Fi available that works inside the rooms. Also has a great restaurant downstairs, the Aquatini Bar and Restaurant that is listed separately in the Eat section. 3000-4500 baht.

- Nouvo City Hotel, 2 Samsen Soi 2 (right next to the New World City Hotel, across from May Kaidee's 2), +66-2-282-7500, [52]. A new boutique hotel with very nice rooms, a roof-top swimming pool, free Wi-Fi for guests and a halal restaurant. Buffet breakfast is included with the price. 3200-11,000 baht.

- Viengtai Hotel, 42 Rambutti Rd (at the road that runs parallel to Khao San Road in the north), +66-2-280-6434(-45), [53]. This hotel is a popular choice for Thais visiting Bangkok. Rooms are large and have air-conditioning, but are not really inspiring and the ones facing the road can have noise coming from the bars. The big pool is a nice way to cool down in the afternoon. The staff is superbly efficient and friendly as they are in most hotels. The breakfast is superb, offering many choices among different cuisines. 2400-5200 baht.

Cope
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There are plenty of places around Khao San that do your laundry. The general tariff is around 25-40 baht per kilo, and it's ready to be picked up the next day. Look around, as some laundromats even offer same-day pickup if you bring it in before 3PM. The Rambuttri Village Inn offers luggage storage for 20 baht per day.

If you don't stay at the road itself, a restroom can be hard to find. There is a reasonably clean one inside Buddy's Shopping Plaza — walk all the way in and take a right before entering Brick Bar. Price is 5 baht, but the queues can be long at popular evenings. Another public restroom can be found all the way inside Sunset Street, passing Starbucks on the left. Entry 5 baht. You can also try Burger King at the eastern end of the road.

- WearEver Laundromat, 115 Samsen Rd (opposite Suksawad Hotel), +66-8-6504-7122 (info@weareverbangkok.com), [54]. M-F 10AM-late evening, Sa-Su late afternoon-late evening. An interesting place to do your laundry, as it is also a kind of bar, art gallery, movie theater, and what have you not. Plenty of locals, expats and backpackers come here just to chill out. Free WiFi for customers. 30 baht/kg.

Contact
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Internet cafes are rivaled only by tuk-tuks for sheer ubiquity on Khao San Road. Almost any guest house has at least some form of internet available. Sawasdee Bangkok Inn has three computers set up that cost 10 baht for 15 minutes of surfing. It is right in the middle of Khao San Road. The standard rate in the area is about 1 baht for 1 minute, so for 30 minutes, you have to pay about 30 baht. Virtually all are set up for Skype and plain old international phone calls. Be aware that some cafes have applied limitations on their terminals, such as on printing documents and saving digital files — check whether this is the case before paying for it.

You can send (and even receive) mail at one of the area's two post offices. Ratchadamnoen Post Office is just a small walk through the alley behind Burger King. Banglamphubon Post Office is not far either, located in front of Wat Bowonniwet. From the eastern side of Khao San Road, just follow Tanao Road in northwards direction and take a right at the roundabout.

Stay safe
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Khao San Road is the worst district in Bangkok when it comes to scams and annoyances. Be highly skeptical of anyone telling you that your intended destination is currently closed. If someone offers you a free whole-day tuk-tuk ride, smile faintly and keep on walking. If you agree to this, you probably will get a free tuk-tuk ride all day, but the only thing you will see are dozens of shops where you get tricked into buying worthless gems, while the driver gets a commission. Never enter a tuk-tuk if someone else is trying to get you into one. Better pull over a taxi yourself.

Beware of private bus companies around Khao San Road offering direct trips from Bangkok to other cities with "VIP buses". Some are reputable and will be able to provide you with a great deal, but many of them are shopfronts for scam artists and dodgy services. The so-called direct "VIP" trips may end up changing three or four uncomfortable minibuses to the destination, and the 10-11 hour trip may as well turn into 17-18 hours. Also, you are likely to be hit for extra charges for various dubious services along the way and many operators will intentionally slow down the journey so you arrive in the middle of the night and can be coaxed into choosing their guest house — invariably the crappiest place in town which just happens to pay the agency the highest commissions. Worst of all, since you have paid in advance, you have no recourse of any kind when this happens! Especially trips to Siem Reap in Cambodia are known for this. You can ask around Khao San Road, as a lot of people start and end their journeys there, and use an agent which another traveler has used without any hassles. But it is probably a better idea to do the trips independently using public BKS buses from the main bus terminals.

The police station, located at the Western end of Khao San Road, could be a valuable resource for travelers in trouble. However, extreme caution should be exercised when asking them for advice with regards to booking tickets — they will often arrange a tuk-tuk to an "approved agency" for you (which seems great and normally a better deal than you would be able to arrange), but the prices offered by the agency they send you to may be 2-3 times the price you could get elsewhere. Often, the tuk-tuk driver, on seeing you come out of the first agency without having bought a ticket, will take you to a second agency "...for no extra..." only to have the same or similar price quoted.

Be sure to read the Stay safe section of the main Bangkok article for other scams you should look out for.

Get out
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Famous sites within walking distance from Khao San Road include the Grand Palace (with Wat Phra Kaew), Wat Pho, Wat Arun, Sanam Luang, Wat Ratchanadda and the Golden Mount. See Rattanakosin for details. There are also some more adventurous options:

- If you're up for a fun walk, hike to the Royal Barges National Museum at the other side of the river in Thonburi. The walking tour goes over the Pinklao Bridge, through a typical folk neighborhood (follow the signs) and ends with the sublime royal barges.

- Only on weekends, the Taling Chan Floating Market in Thonburi can be reached by bus 79 from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road. Ask a local where to get off, or you might get lost.

District Yaowarat and Phahurat Table of Contents

• Understand

Orientation

History

• Get in

By boat

By public transit

By bus

By train

• See

Temples

Shrines

Museums and monuments

European-style buildings

• Do

Festivals

• Buy

Street markets

Phahurat

Flowers

Gold

Malls

• Eat

Budget

Yaowarat

Pahurat

Mid-range

Yaowarat

Phahurat

Chinese food markets

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Hualamphong Station area

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
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Compared to the rest of the city, this district is fairly compact and can best be explored in a full-day (and night) walking tour. You'll come across street markets, shop houses, gold shops, beautiful remnants of colonial-style architecture and some interesting temples. Instead of tramping from temple to temple, this neighborhood is mostly about catching a brief peek into commercial Bangkok as it has been the last two centuries. Rushing through won't be rewarding—take your time instead, sitting at a plastic chair and watching local traders sell their wares. As the street markets are not targeted to foreigners, you will find a wide array of products: ceramics, fabrics, gold, tacky teenager ware, ant-killer chalk, Bollywood movies, ginseng roots. Who knows what you'll end up with at the end of the day. It is best to come during weekdays, as many stores close during the weekends. Also keep in mind that most shops close at 5PM after which most of the area gets pretty much deserted (Yaowarat Road being a noteworthy exception).

Orientation
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Orientation in Yaowarat is even trickier than elsewhere in Bangkok. The area is filled with narrow alleys and obscure pedestrian-only routes, and is crossed by a few giant roads that feel like small highways. Finding your way around isn't made easy as road signs are blocked by the bulk of neon-signs and other merchandise that sellers hang up to attract customers. The perfect map for the district still has to be created, so adapt to the situation and expect to get lost often. Also take note that alleys often bear the name trok instead of the usual soi, and that many have multiple names attached to them. For example, Trok Issaranuphap is often signposted as Soi Issaranuphap or as Soi 16, while Soi Phadung Dao is also known as Soi Texas.

Yaowarat is centered, as could be expected, around Yaowarat Road, a big road bursting with neon signs. North of it is Charoen Krung Road, which is also one of Bangkok's major traffic arteries. Running parallel to the south of Yaowarat Road is Sampeng Lane, which is also known as Soi Wanit 1, a narrow pedestrian-only lane with many small department stores. Crossing these three streets is the pedestrian-only Trok Issaranuphap, another interesting lane for shopping and having small snacks. Another small lane crossing Yaowarat Road is Soi Phadung Dao, and that's the place to go when you're about to get hungry.

Phahurat is centered around Phahurat Road, which starts immediately west of Sampeng Lane. It is crossed by Chakphet Road and Tri Phet Road, both major roads that have to cope with the immense traffic coming from the Memorial Bridge.

History
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Yaowarat is one of the oldest Chinese communities in Thailand. The story of the Chinese in Bangkok starts in the late 1700s, when poor peasants from China's Chaozhou region (in Eastern Guangdong) moved to the Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin. They came to Siam to find work in Thonburi at the other side of the Chao Phraya River (which at that time was the capital of the country). The Chinese were requested to move outside the city walls when King Rama I set up his new capital in the Grand Palace area in 1782.

The new Chinese neighborhood, nowadays named after Yaowarat Road, became Bangkok's main center of commerce for the following two centuries. Formerly impoverished peasants worked their way up to become the backbone of trade in Siam. It also became known as a seedy area thriving on brothels, gambling houses and opium dens, though these activities are illegal nowadays and no longer to be found in the district. The business center of the district moved from Sampeng Lane to Yaowarat Road and Charoen Krung Road in 1891, when those roads were built by a decree of HM King Rama V.

A few years later a fire broke out, which opened the way for the construction of Phahurat Road in 1898. HM King Rama V named it after his daughter Phahurat Maneemai, in remembrance of her early death at the age of ten. The area used to be an enclave of Vietnamese immigrants, who had lived here since the reign of King Taksin in the late eighteenth century. Construction of the road made way for the Indian community to move in and since then, this neighborhood evolved its own South Asian character that persists today.

As Thailand became one of Asia's emerging economies, the commercial core moved from Yaowarat and Phahurat to the Siam Square area. However, this multicultural district still shows what commercial Bangkok has been like for almost two decades.

Get in
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By boat
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Due to its location at the Chao Phraya River, most visitors enter Yaowarat and Phahurat using the Chao Phraya Express Boat service. A single trip from Rattanakosin or Silom takes about 20 minutes and costs around 18 baht. The most important stops are the Rachawongse and Si Phraya piers, both of which are served by all lines. Rachawongse is an ideal stop for central Yaowarat, while Si Phraya is close to the southeastern part of the district. Phahurat can best be reached using the Memorial Bridge pier (saphan phut), which is only attended by no-flag and orange flag lines. Other piers that could be useful are Rachini and Marine Department, both of which are only served by no-flag lines.

If you're coming from Thonburi, you can cross the river by taking a ferry. There is a ferry service from Kanlayanamit to Pak Khlong Talat, from Dindaeng to Rachawongse and from Klongsan to Si Phraya. Ferries leave about every 15 minutes for just 3 baht.

By public transit
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Yaowarat and Phahurat can directly be reached by metro if you are coming from Silom, Sukhumvit or Ratchadaphisek. The only station close to the district is Hua Lamphong at the eastern side. The metro ride from Silom takes about five minutes, while the ride from Sukhumvit takes about ten minutes. Trains leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about 16 to 41 baht. From the metro station, it is a 20 minute walk to the center of Yaowarat.

By bus
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The bus system in Bangkok is complex, but it is actually one of the cheapest ways to travel around the city. Many lines run through the district, but let's start with a warning: as Yaowarat Road is a one-way road, bus lines only use it in westwards direction (to Rattanakosin). Buses going east use Charoen Krung Road instead!

Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 25 is the most important bus route. It starts in the far southeast of Sukhumvit Road, then follows that road northwest before heading through Ratchaprasong intersection (for Siam Square), Ratchdamri Road, Silom intersection, Rama IV Road, Hualamphong Train Station and then runs right through Yaowarat Road and Phahurat Road. This route can also be taken from the other direction, then it comes from Tha Chang pier (near the Grand Palace in Rattanakosin) and takes Charoen Krung Road instead of Yaowarat Road.

From Khao San Road, catch ordinary (circular) bus 56 which runs along Tanao Road at the eastern tip of Khao San Road and then goes south through Maha Chai Road and Chakphet Road (get off after the Merry King department store for Phahurat Road and Sampeng Lane; don't miss it, as it will cross the bridge to Thonburi right after). Ordinary bus 4 comes from Silom intersection along Rama IV Road and passes Hualamphong Train Station through Yaowarat Road and then goes southwest over the Phra Pok Klao bridge to Thonburi (as with all routes, in eastwards direction Yaowarat Road is skipped in favor of Charoen Krung Road).

By train
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Yaowarat and Phahurat can easily be reached from Hualamphong Train Station, which is located at the eastern border of the district. Trains come in and go to many destinations in Thailand, including Ayutthaya, Kanchanaburi, Chiang Mai and Southern Thailand.

See
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Sights abound around Yaowarat and Phahurat, but if you're looking for "must-sees", you might want to visit Rattanakosin first. While enjoying a relaxed walk through this district, you should at least incorporatea visit to Wat Mangkon Kamalawat and Wat Traimit. Other sights could be considered optional or more interesting for adventurous travellers.

Temples
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- Guru Tawan Sikh Temple (คุรุดวาราศรีคุรุสิงห์สภา Gurudwara Siri Guru Singh Sabha), 565 Chakphet Rd (next to the India Emporium mall, south of the Pahurat Rd and Chakphet Rd intersection), +66-2-221-1011, [1]. 10AM-6PM daily. Established in 1932, this Sikh temple is the most iconic landmark of Phahurat and actually the second-largest Sikh temple outside India. It is a white six-story building with a large golden dome on top. This temple is very important for daily life as most Indians in this neighborhood are followers of the Sikh faith. It is possible to enter, but you must take off your shoes and cover your head with an orange cloth. Free.

- Wat Chai Chana Songkhram (วัดชัยชนะสงคราม, literally War Victory Temple), 83 Chakrawat Rd (walk 150 meters north along Chakrawat Road from Yaowarat Road), +66-2-221-4310, [2]. This third class Royal Temple dates from 1848, the reign of King Rama III. The temple was the project of chief commander Chao Phraya Bodindecha, who lead Siam to victory in the wars against Vietnam and Cambodia. He designated his house and the surrounding land as a site for a new temple, which he called the War Victory Temple as a commemoration to his victories. It is a relatively large temple complex with an enshrined Buddha inside the main building. Free.

- Wat Chakrawat (วัดจักรวรรดิราชาวาสวรมหาวิหาร), Chakrawat Rd (south of Sampeng Lane, between Chakrawat Rd and Maha Chak Rd, can enter the compound using a small alley from Maha Chak Rd). The temple itself actually is rather small, though it does have some interesting features. To the right as you walk through the gate is a small viharn. Its outer wall is decorated in a remarkable black and gold pattern, which is unusual, as usually these decorations are found on interior walls. Most travellers like to visit this place for its serene atmosphere with crocodiles, birds, dogs, birds and relaxed monks. Crocodiles have been living in the small pond beside the temple for about fifty years. At that time, a crocodile that was found in the Chao Phraya River was brought to this temple for the safety of Bangkok's citizens. This original crocodile can still be viewed in the glass case above the pond. Free.

- Wat Ga Buang Kim, Soi Krai (southwest of the Sampeng Lane and Rachawongse Rd intersection. take the small alleys from Anawong Rd or Rachawongse Rd). Definitely off the tourist trail, this more or less deserted temple shows how local residents practice their religion. The most interesting room is the wonderfully ornamented Boonsamakan Vegetarian Hall, which is home to miniature gold characters reappearing several times in different moods and positions. Around the doorway, at the top of the stairs, you can find finely crafted ceramic figurines drawn from Chinese opera stories. Chinese opera performances are occasionally held at the other building in the temple compound. Free.

- Wat Kanikapon (วัดกณิการ์ผล, also known as Wat Mae Lao Feng), Trok Issaranuphap (at the intersection of Trok Issaranuphap and Phlap Phla Chai Rd). A short walk from the much-visited Wat Mangkon Kamalawat is Wat Kanikapon, built in the late nineteenth century. Certainly off the beaten path, if it is known by travellers, then it is because of the fact that the temple was founded by a brothel owner. The dark green tiles decorate that the window frames bear resemblance to the green curtains used in the brothels that once thrived in Yaowarat (in Thailand, green was used to designate brothels in a similar way as red was used to designate brothels in the West). Next to the ubosot in a smaller viharn housing a Western-looking Buddha image. Free.

- Wat Mangkon Kamalawat (วัดมังกรกมลาวาส Dragon Flower Temple or วัดเล่งเน่ยยี่ Wat Leng Noei Yi), Charoen Krung Rd (at the intersection of Charoen Krung Rd and Trok Issaranuphap. take the small passageway from Charoen Krung Rd), +66-2-222-3975. 6AM-5PM daily. On the list of every Yaowarat visitor, you will be amazed by the impressive multi-tiered gateway when you enter the temple. It is a Mahayana Buddhist temple, the school of Buddhism that most Chinese follow, and it has mixed with other Chinese practices like Confucianism and Taoism. It is in Southern Chinese style built in 1871. There are plenty of statues and shrines inside, most interesting is the part right after the second entrance. Four golden statues will greet you, each with a symbolic object: a parasol, a pagoda, a snake's head and a mandolin. It is one of Chinatown's liveliest temples with many Thai-Chinese praying and burning incense. Free.

- Wat Pathum Khongkha (วัดปทุมคงคา, also known as Wat Sampeng), Song Wat Rd (between Sampeng Lane and Soi Wanit 2). 7AM-6PM daily. Previously known as Wat Sampeng, this ancient monastery was founded in the Ayutthaya period. It has been renovated during the reign of King Rama I by a rich Thai citizen, who gave the temple the current name. The main Buddhist image in the temple is in the subduing mara posture. The doors and windows are exquisitely decorated in with lacquered ornamentation in gold leaf patterns. Behind the temple is the Execution Stone, where King Rama III ordered the execution of Krommaluang Rak Ronnaret for planning a rebellion against him. The canal in front of the temple is a holy site as the ash of cremated members of the royal family and the royal elephants are scattered here. The temple has recently been completely restored, making the golden Buddha images look shinier than ever. Free.

- Wat Ratchaburana (วัดราชบูรณะหรือวัดเลียบ, also known as Wat Liap), Tri Phet Rd (at the Tri Phet Rd and Chakrawat Rd intersection), +66-2-225-1595. 6AM-6PM daily. This temple is located at the foot of the Rama I Memorial Bridge on the Bangkok side. Built in the late Ayutthaya period by a Chinese merchant, it is otherwise known as Wat Liap and is one of the 3 principal temples of the capital which include Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Ratchapradit and Wat Mahathat. It had been regularly restored since the reign of King Rama I through to the reign of King Rama VII, except in the sixth reign. Some of the temple's principal buildings, especially Phra Ubosot – the ordination hall – which houses mural paintings by Khrua In Khong, were badly damaged by bombing during World War II. The buildings were later restored to their good condition as they appear today. Free.

- Wat Samphanthawong (วัดสัมพันธวงศารามวรวิหาร), Song Sawat Rd (north of the intersection between Song Sawat Rd and Sampeng Lane). In the Ayutthaya period this temple bare the name "Wat Ko", which means Island Temple, as it was surrounded by a canal that was directly in contact with the Chao Phraya River. King Rama I turned it into a royal temple in 1796. King Rama IV gave the temple its current name after Prince Samphanthawong. Inside you can find a statue of Mara. The backyard is filled with rows of golden Buddhas. Free.

- Wat Traimit (วัดไตรมิตรวิทยารามวรวิหาร Temple of the Golden Buddha), Tri Mit Rd (MRT Hua Lamphong, east of the Odeon Circle), +66-2-225-9775. 8AM-5PM daily. This temple is one of the highlights of Yaowarat, but is actually not part of China's cultural heritage. It houses the Phra Phuttha Maha Suwan Patimakon (พระพุทธมหาสุวรรณปฏิมากร), the world's largest solid-gold Buddha image, which originates from the Sukhothai period. It is over three meters tall and weighs five and a half tonnes, with an interesting history. The image was only rediscovered about 50 years ago when it dropped from a crane while being moved. This cracked the plaster exterior that was (as it's said) applied to hide the image from the invading Burmese army. There is an impressive white structure with a golden spire next to the temple, that reaches higher than many other buildings in the district. 20 baht.

Shrines
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- Leng Buai Ia Shrine (ศาลเจ้าเล่งบ๊วยเอี๊ยะ), Trok Issaranuphap (south of Charoen Krung Rd, north of Yaowarat Rd). This shrine, housed in a traditionally Chinese architectural style-building is considered to be the oldest Chinese shrine in Thailand. This claim is based on the plaque inside with a Chinese inscription that states that the shrine was built in 1658. That year corresponds to the Ayutthaya period, far before Bangkok became the capital of the country. During all these years, Chinese businessmen in the area came to the shrine for refuge and to improve the prosperity of their businesses. The roof is made of glazed colored tiles with two ceramic-clad dragons on top. The two main columns beside the entrance also both feature a ceramic-clad dragon. Inside there is a shrine dedicated to Leng Buai Ia and his wife in the center, a shrine dedicated to the deity Going-Wu on the left and a shrine dedicated to the Queen of Heaven on the right.

- Kwong Siew Foundation (มูลนิธิกว๋องสิว), 5/3-5/5 Charoen Krung Rd, +66-2-226-5704. As with the other foundations and medical centers in the area, this charity also has an impressive shrine known as the Guang Dong Shrine (ปูชนียสถานมณฑลกวางตุ้ง). This 130-year old shrine was built in a traditional Chinese architectural style and used to be a meeting place of overseas Chinese from the Guangdong region in China. It has been built mostly with construction materials and Buddha images from their homeland.

- Li Thi Miew Shrine (ศาลเจ้าหลีตี่เบี้ยว), 494 Plap Phla Chai Rd (close to Wat Kanikapon), +66-2-221-6985. One of the larger and more open Chinese shrines in Bangkok, the Li Thi Miew Shrine is not a sight where you'll find many tourists. This Taoist temple has a large roof housing plenty of smaller shrines. As typical in Chinese shrines, the roof features two dragons that play with a pearl. The building next to the temple features a large shrine, which just like the Thien Fa Foundation, is dedicated to Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy.

- Poh Teck Tung Foundation (มูลนิธิป่อเต็กตึ๊ง Por Tek Teung Foundation), 326 Chao Khamrob Rd (near Wat Kanikapon and the Phlap Phla Chai Police Station), +66-2-226-4444(-8). 7AM-8PM daily. This charity organization has been established by dr. Utain Techapaiboon more than 100 years ago for arranging funerals for unidentified corpses, such as accident victims. Between the foundation and the Li Thi Miew Shrine are plenty of funerary paraphernalia stores. Most interesting is the Da Feng Zu Shrine inside. It is a very lively shrine with many Thai-Chinese coming over to worship the Da Feng Zu God, make a merit and get rid of their bad fortune. Many satin banners and paper offerings such as fake money are burned to ensure that the spirit of the deceased has lots of good things in the afterlife. Free.

- San Jao Sieng Kong (ศาลเจ้าเซียงกง), Soi Wanit 2 (take a small alley off Soi Wanit 2, opposite River View Guesthouse). 6AM-6PM daily. In one of the small sois and particularly hard to find, with 200 years this riverbank shrine is actually one of the oldest Chinese shrines in the city. It is guarded by a playful rooftop terracotta dragon. One of the former owners of the shrine made money by collecting taxes on bird-nest delicacies. It particularly gets lively during the Vegetarian Festival in October, when Chinese operas and fairground games are staged. It is in the middle of the Sieng Kong Zone, a car spare parts market named after the shrine, and thus could be combined with a visit to it. Donation requested.

- Thien Fa Foundation (มูลนิธิเทียนฟ้า Thianfa), Yaowarat Rd (slightly north of the Yaowarat Rd and Charoen Krung Rd intersection, also north of the Odeon Circle). This is the oldest charitable society of Bangkok, founded in 1902 by Chinese immigrants in Thailand. The local clinics at the site provide free medical treatment for the poor using traditional Chinese as well as modern practices. Most interesting for foreign visitors is the courtyard which boasts the Guan Yin Shrine (ปูชนียสถานเจ้าแม่กวนอิม), commonly known as the "Shrine for the Goddess of Mercy". Local visitors of the shrine follow the Mahayana school of Buddhism, which is different from the Theravada school that is dominant elsewhere in Thailand. The statue of the goddess Ming, to whom the shrine is dedicated, is the highlight of the temple. The statue was carved out from a single piece of solid teakwood and shows Ming in the attitude of giving blessings. It was carved in China in Tang Dynasty art style and is believed to be around 800 years old. The statue has been in possession of the foundation since 1958, when it was taken out of China and placed inside the temple. The exterior's architecture is typically Chinese with an impressive roof and beautiful teak wood motif carving of dragons and other Chinese symbols. It is particularly lively during Chinese New Year.

Museums and monuments
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- Chinese shop houses, Maha Chak Rd (northwest of the intersection between Sampeng Lane and Maha Chak Rd, take the small alley from Maha Chak Rd). Rows of stuccoed yellow Chinese shop houses are to be found here in a very serene environment. As they are very photogenic and typical for the area, a picture of these shop houses shouldn't be missed. Free.

- King's Birthday Celebration Arch (ประตูจีนที่วงเวียนโอเดียน Arch Commemorating the 6th Cycle Birthday Anniversary), Odeon Circle (at the intersection of Tri Mit Rd and Charoen Krung Rd). This Chinese-style ceremonial gate is located at the Odeon Circle. It was built by Thais of Chinese descent to show their loyalty to King Bhumibol, and officially revealed on his 72nd birthday on 5 December 1999. The four Chinese characters on the arch mean "Long Live The King" and are in the handwriting of HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn (who is fluent in Chinese). Free.

- King Rama I the Great Monument (พระบรมราชานุสาวรีย์พระบาทสมเด็จพระพุทธยอดฟ้าจุฬาโลกมหาราช), Tri Phet Rd (behind the Memorial Bridge). Built in commemoration of Bangkok's 150th anniversary celebrations in 1932, the monument is situated at the foot of Pathom Boromrachanuson or Rama I the Great Memorial Bridge on the Bangkok side. King Rama I was the first king in the Royal House of Chakri and founder of Bangkok as the capital of the Kingdom of Siam, as Thailand was formerly known. He was born in Ayutthaya, one of Thailand's former capitals, on 20 March, 1736, accessed to the throne on 6 April, 1782, and passed away 27 years later. Free.

- Samphanthawong Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์ท้องถิ่นกรุงเทพมหานคร, also known as Bangkok Local Museum), Song Wat Rd (inside Wat Pathum Khongkha School, enter building 2 and then head upstairs), +66-2-233-3216. M-F 8AM-4PM, Sa-Su closed. This community museum is dedicated to the early Chinese immigrants in Bangkok. Pictures and text in Thai and English give the visitor an overview of the history of this ethnic group and their lives and contributions to Yaowarat (part of which is also called Samphanthawong District). There are pictures to see what Sampheng Lane was like about one hundred years ago. An interesting museum if you want to get a deeper understanding of the area. Free.

European-style buildings
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- Bangkok Bank Building (ธนาคารกรุงเทพ Thanakan Krung Thep), Sampeng Lane (at the intersection of Sampeng Lane and Mangkon Rd). Right opposite to the Tang To Kang gold shop, and actually quite similar to it, the Bangkok Bank Building is one of Bangkok's oldest commercial buildings. The exterior is an example of classic early Rattanakosin-style with clear European influences. The interior is heavy with hardwood panelling.

- Holy Rosary Church (วัดแม่พระลูกประคำ Wat Mae Phra Luk Prakham, also known as วัดกาลหว่าร์ Kalawar Church), 1318 Yotha Rd (slightly north of River City, behind the Wanit 2 Market), +66-2-266-4849, [3]. Religious services M-Sa 6AM, Su 6:15AM, 8AM, 10AM. Portuguese descendants of the early traders in Ayutthaya first settled at the other bank of the river in Thonburi (at the site of the Santa Cruz Church), but gradually moved towards the other bank of the river. As the Portuguese were one of the most important trading nations in Siam, this church was built with a land grant from King Rama I in 1786, about four years after Bangkok was established as Siam's capital. As Portugal's influence overseas diminished, the Portuguese community was dispersed and the church fell into disuse. Due to the Indochina Wars of the mid-20th-century, many catholic Vietnamese and Cambodians fled to Bangkok and adopted this church as their main house of worship. Throughout its history, it has been rebuilt twice, with the present church dating from the 1890s. The cream-colored church has a towering spire, an interesting set of European-style stained-glass windows, as well as a statue of Christ that is carried through the streets during Easter.

- Siam Commercial Bank Building Talat Noi Branch (อาคารธนาคารไทยพาณิชย์ สาขาตลาดน้อย), Soi Wanit 2 (take the passageway from Soi Wanit 2, slightly north of the Holy Rosary Church). M-F 10AM-6PM, Sa-Su closed. Instead of trying to find this building while walking, this Art Deco-style building is actually best seen from the Chao Phraya Express Boat. It is the first commercial bank of Thailand run by Thais. It was designed by the Italian architect Annibale Rigotti and completed in 1904 in typical 19th century European style. Each gable is unique with delicate patterns of stucco. Free.

- Song Wat Road (ถนนทรงวาด). A century ago, this road was the center of a rice trading industry. A stroll along the road gives a good impression of the old days with tumbled down nineteenth century-style warehouses and business houses.

- Tang To Kang Gold Shop (พิพิธภัณฑ์ทองคำห้างทองตั้งโต๊ะกัง), 345 Sampeng Lane (intersection of Sampeng Lane and Mangkon Rd), +66-2-224-2422. M-Sa 9:30AM-4PM. Chinatown is one of Bangkok's oldest districts and about fourteen percent of the buildings have been designated as historical landmarks. Tang To Kang is one of them, an interesting colonial style building and actually the oldest gold shop of Bangkok (which is hard to believe now with so many gold shops scattered over the district). If you want to see their gold museum, you have to make an appointment two days ahead. Free.

Do
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- Take the Yaowarat and Phahurat Tour, a full day walking tour around the most interesting sights, markets and restaurants of the area.

- Chalerm Krung Royal Theatre (เฉลิมกรุงรอยัลเธียเตอร์), 66 Charoen Krung Rd (near the Old Siam Plaza), +66-2-225-8757(-8), +66-2-623-8148(-9). 10AM-6PM daily. Opened in 1933, the theatre places a heavy emphasis on Thai dramas known as "khon" — traditional Thai dances based on Thai history and legends that take about two hours. The "khon" are mostly performed during the winter months, while other performing arts (including cinema) are staged throughout the year. It is best to call first to find out about which performances are on.

Festivals
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- A great time to visit Yaowarat is during Chinese New Year (เทศกาลตรุษจีน), when Bangkok's Chinatown goes on steroids. Yaowarat Road will be closed to traffic as street festivities, lion dances and food fairs take place. Generally, a member of the Thai royal family comes over to celebrate among the Chinese community. Temples will be more packed than ever with many Thai-Chinese coming over to pray and burn incense. The best temples to visit this time of the year are Wat Mangkon Kamalawat and Thien Fa Foundation.

- Another festival you might want to attend is the ten day Vegetarian Festival (เทศกาลกินเจ), which is generally taking place around September or October. Many Thai-Chinese (and increasingly ethnic Thai) come over to Yaowarat during festival time to buy vegetarian products, such as vegetables, fruits and cooking ingredients. Most of the action happens around Wat Mangkon Kamalawat (which is also more lively) and in the area around Talat Noi. Look out for the yellow flags at the carts that show their meat-free status. Restaurants also adapt to the tradition, substituting meat products for soy-based products, even for traditional Thai dishes like tom yam. The most interesting festival dish are the yellow Hokkien-style noodles that are usually served with vegetables and mushrooms.

- Every year around late September or early October, the Mooncake Festival (เทศกาลไหว้พระจันทร์), also known as Mid-Autumn Festival or Lantern Festival, is held in Yaowarat. Chinese families and friends gather under the full moon to pay respect to the Goddess of the Moon. Their celebratations include the eating of mooncakes and pomelos together under the light of the bright moon. Many stores in Yaowarat sell mooncakes during festival time, so you might want to try one of these sweet cakes that come in many varieties.

Buy
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Street markets
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Typical for Yaowarat are its small crowded lanes filled with markets, that sell... well, anything you could possibly imagine. You'll stumble on items for sale as diverse as Chinese medicine, snake blood, Buddhist paraphernalia, toys, ant-killer chalk, car spare parts, typical teenager stuff and more. Parallel to the big Yaowarat Road lies Sampeng Lane (sometimes signposted as Soi Wanit 1, 8AM-6PM daily) which is probably the most characteristic (if tacky) shopping lane of the area. This narrow lane, at some places having a width of less than one meter, used to be a shady area thriving on brothels, gambling houses and opium dens, but has now turned into a crowded lane of endless ramshackle department stores. The lane can roughly be divided into three sections, all of them selling different kind of products at bargain rates. The lower eastern part of Sampeng Lane focuses on cheap teenager accessories, such as cheap jewelry, toys and hair products. In the middle part, there is more of a focus on shoes, Chinese ceramics and lanterns. Indian merchants have mostly taken over the part west of Rachawongse Road, where you can find fabrics, silk and other clothes. Don't expect high quality here, just shop for the heck of it.

Some of the smaller markets include:

- Ban Mo (บ้านหม้อ), Soi Thip Wari (alley runs parallel to Phahurat Road at the northern side). 9AM-5PM daily. The market known as Ban Mo has hundreds of shops selling electronics and home appliances. There are also numerous repair shops and replacement parts on sale. In addition, there is an overwhelming sale of counterfeit and pornographic CDs and DVDs. There are few foreigners here, most visitors are Thai males looking for cheap electronics and spare parts.

- Khlong Ong Ang Market (คลองโอ่งอ่าง, also known as สะพานหัน Saphan Le), Boriphat Rd (at the intersection of Boriphat Rd and Yaowarat Rd, next to the Thieves Market). This cheap market is on the banks of Khlong Ong Ang, and easily combined with the Thieves' Market. It feels quite cramped as the shops are around a very small pathway. The products for sale are toys and electronics, such as air guns, video games, camcorders, used cameras and accessories.

- Khlong Tom Market (คลองถม), (between Luang Rd, Charoen Krung Rd, Worachak Rd and Suapa Rd). Another one of Chinatown's typical markets, and actually one of the largest by square footage. It is not really one market, but instead a combination of specialty stores and open-air markets. It is mostly of interest if you're looking for low-cost electronics and hardware, such as cellular phones, CDs and DVDs, gadgets, household tools, toys, vehicle spare parts, some clothes and many many small things.

- Noi Market (ตลาดน้อย Talat Noi), Soi 20 and 22, Charoen Krung Rd (between Soi Wanit 2 and Charoen Krung Rd). This market is so off the beaten path, you may not even find your way back anymore. Its hidden location between soi 20 and 22 gives this market a very local atmosphere, even while tourists are never far away. The market vendors sell products from China, fruit and other fresh food. But most interesting is the fact that you might walk through others' living rooms and see more of the citizens' daily life. Nearby is the Sieng Kong Zone, which can easily be combined with a visit to the Noi Market.

- Plaeng Nam Road (ถนนแปลงนาม). This small road feels like a time machine with an atmosphere of at least one hundred years old. It is an excellent showcase of ancient Chinese civilization. If coming from Charoen Krung Road, pass the Mongkol Smakhorm Temple and the ancient Chinese pharmacy and on the right side you will find Guang Jiab Xia, a shop selling and repairing traditional Chinese musical instruments. Generally they are also trying one of the instruments playing traditional Chinese music. Close by is Liang Guang Panich, a 70-year old shop that sells ancient Thai and foreign lamps.

- Sieng Kong Zone, Soi Wanit 2 (at the intersection of Soi Wanit 2 and Soi Yaowarat 10). The Sieng Kong Zone is the oldest car spare part market of Bangkok. It is a typical neighborhood to see the daily life of the local Chinese, most of who work in garages and repair cars on the streets. Obviously it is not easy to bring these parts home, but it does make for a fun walk. You will come across huge piles of oily car parts, some of them taller than 3 meters! The area is named after the San Jao Sieng Kong temple, which is listed in the See section.

- Thieves' Market (เวิ้งนาครเกษม Woeng Nakhon Kasem), Woeng Nakhon Kasem 1 and 2 (between Chakrawat Rd and Boriphat Rd). This open-air market is called the Thieves' Market, as many of the goods sold here were stolen. Now it is mostly known for its combination of garage sales, brassware, blue-and-white porcelain, old furniture and imitation antiques. Not too interesting for most foreigners though, but it is so dirty that it might be worth a look. Some of its visitors are drawn by the sale of all kinds of musical instruments, from guitars to flutes.

- Wanit 2 Market (ถนนวานิช 2), Soi Wanit 2 (right in front of the Holy Rosary Church, north of River City). This market doesn't seem to have a real name, but its location near the church and River City makes it relatively easy to find. It's not worth it to specifically come here for the market, as it is very small, but it is a fun market if you happen to be in the area. You might want to sit down on one of the plastic seats and try some Chinese snacks as you walk from River City to Chinatown proper.

Phahurat
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Shopping in Phahurat is not as rewarding for the average traveller, unless you are into Bollywood movies, betelnut leaves (paan) or Punjabi sweets. If you're looking for fabrics, however, Phahurat is definitely the place to be. And even if you're not specifically looking for fabrics, it is still a great adventure to visit the Phahurat Fabrics Market (Phahurat Rd and Triphet Rd, 9AM-6PM daily). The first task is to actually find it: it is carefully hidden and you need to walk through a couple of other stores to get into it. Once you're there, you'll definitely know though, as it is a fabrics market on steroids. Thousands of retailers of Indian descent sell fabrics in every color, shape and pattern you could possibly imagine. Some shops are specialized in custom-made wedding gifts, dresses and souvenirs. This old market is a labyrinth of narrow lanes, barely wide enough for two people to pass each other. It is the most typical market the Indian neighborhood has to offer and has managed to keep its unique character ever since it was founded.

Besides fabrics, Phahurat is also an excellent place for buying accessories, such as bracelets, trinkets and sandals. There are literally thousands of different kinds for sale, and all for a bargain, so mix and match as you wish. You'll also notice many stores selling religious paraphernalia like statues and pictures of Indian deities.

Flowers
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As Phahurat becomes deserted at night, Pak Khlong Talat (ปากคลองตลาด, Chakphet Rd, open 24 hours) just starts to become lively. Not having anything to do with the Indian community, this wholesale flower market is a great stroll through and a highlight in its own right. The endless piles orchids, roses and other flowers are an interesting sight, and there is something to be found for any budget. There are amazingly expensive bouquets for thousands of bahts, but your partner might even be happier with a beautifully created rose for just 50 baht. The market is open at all times, but the best time to visit is around 3AM, when the new flower batches come in from West and Central Thailand. If that is too late (or too early) for you, visit it from 8PM onwards when the market is beautifully illuminated and very lively.

A visit to the flower market can easily be combined with the Memorial Bridge Night Market (สะพานพุทธ Saphan Phut, Tu-Su 8PM-midnight, M closed), which is located at the Memorial Bridge pier. This cramped night bazaar is a fun walk through the dark, as plenty of colorful lights bright up the place. Expect nothing spectacular though, most of the products for sale are clothes, shoes and accessories for teenagers, as well as some second-hand items.

Gold
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Yaowarat has been the home of gold and gem trading for a couple of centuries, and it is no wonder that some of the oldest buildings in the district are gold shops. Originally, the four "tycoon" gold shops were Seng Heng Li, Hua Seng Heng, Tung Jin Aeng and Tang To Kang. Now there are more than 130 gold shops along Yaowarat Road alone, which is why it is known as the "Golden Road". Generally, the gold is of high standard (of approximately 23 karat gold) and most shops are a member of the Gold Merchants Association. As this district is out of the tourist eye, it is generally safer, but still be wary of the gem scam. See the Stay safe section of the Bangkok page for more information about the scam and what to do once you've fallen for it. One of the better trusted gem stores:

- Johny's Gems, 199 Fuang Nakhon Rd, +66-2-224-4065, [4]. M-Sa 9:30AM-6PM, Su closed. Known among Bangkok's expats as one of the more trusted gem shops. It focuses mainly on rubies and emeralds and has something for all budgets. The original owner whom the shop is named after has since passed away, but the store has been taken over by his son.

Malls
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Three of Bangkok's better known malls can also be found in the district:

- India Emporium, 561/77 Jakkraplach Rd, +66-2-623-9301-2, [5]. 10AM-10PM daily. This four-story Indian shopping mall is a lot more modern than the other ones in the area. It is mostly interesting for fabrics and Indian-style clothing, though they also have a good restaurant at the ground floor (which closes later at 11PM).

- Old Siam Plaza, 12 Tri Phet Rd (at the intersection of Phahurat Rd and Tri Phet Rd), +66-2-226-0156. 10AM-9PM daily. This is a big shopping mall in colonial European-style, and an excellent place to fresh up as it is fully air-conditioned. It has a strange combination of products for sale, such as branded and second-hand clothes, gadgets, electronics, handicrafts and gold futures (if interested). For clothes shopping, the ground store is most interesting with plenty of cheap deals available. Surrounding the mall are plenty of stores selling weapons and ammunition. Don't even think about bringing one home!

- River City (ศูนย์การค้าริเวอร์ซิตี้), 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng (Si Phraya pier, next to Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel), +66-2-237-0077, [6]. 10AM-8PM daily. Easily accessible by Express Boat, this shopping mall has Bangkok's best collection of arts, crafts, antiques, pottery, ornaments, sculptures and wood carvings — but these are the real thing and definitely priced to match. Note that real antiques and religious images will require export licenses, though the shops can arrange them for you (for a fee). Every first Saturday of the month, a monthly auction of crafts is held at the River City auditorium. One of the more interesting stores is Old Maps & Prints at the fourth floor. They have a fascinating collection of old maps with an emphasis on Thailand and Southeast Asia, but anything over a century old will set you back several thousand baht.

Eat
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:

Budget

Under 100 baht

Mid-range

100-500 baht

Splurge

Over 500 baht

Yaowarat has the city's best selection of Chinese restaurants, many of which specialize in expensive delicacies like shark fin, bird's nest, abalone or fresh seafood (often still swimming in tanks near the entrance). The best part is that high-end seafood can be enjoyed here for very affordable prices. Gather the biggest group you can, preferably with a Chinese speaker or two, and head down for some ren'ao ("hot and noisy") banqueting. Yaowarat Road and Soi Phadung Dao (often known as Soi Texas) are the places to be for typical Chinese delicacies. Travelers on budget might want to take a bite at one of the numerous hawker stalls lined up around Yaowarat Road. Trok Issaranuphap (พระยาอิสรานุภาพ) also has its fair share of simple plastic chairs and Chinese dishes, but is mostly known for its Chinese food markets.

Shark fin soup

The Chinese in Yaowarat love shark fin soup, as it is so delicious. And cheap. Yet, you might want to think about the environmental effects of this tasty meal. Animal rights activists and environmentalists emphasize the brutal practice of shark finning, which happens largely unregulated at sea. As the Chinese economy is booming, more and more middle-class Chinese can afford eating shark fin soup. Shark specialists estimate that annually anywhere between 38 million and 100 million sharks are only killed for their fins. It is such a large number that it has the potential of significantly altering oceanic ecosystems. Eventually, the choice is up to you.

If you're looking for Indian restaurants, your best bets are Phahurat Road and Chakphet Road. The roads themselves tend to get deserted after dark, so you might want to head off by taxi when eating time is over.

Budget
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Yaowarat
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- Chong Kee, 84 Soi Sukon, Tri Mit Rd (near Wat Traimit), +66-2-236-1171. Tu-Su 9:30AM-7PM, M 9:30AM-2PM. Another small budget restaurant in Chinatown. Many of the eateries here are specialized in one kind of dish, and here the pork satay with sweet toast is the one to try. Lots of herbs were added into the satay sauce. Usually there are plenty of seats available, but it can be crowded during lunch time. 60 baht.

- Hong Kong Noodles, 136 Trok Issaranuphap. 9AM-6PM daily. This typical Yaowarat budget restaurant is in the middle of the sensual Trok Issaranuphap market. Just take a seat on one of the plastic chairs and immerse yourself in the surrounding commerce. Obviously, go for the noodles. 30 baht.

- Nai Ek, 442 Soi 9, Yaowarat Rd (near White Orchid Hotel), +66-2-226-4651. 10AM-2PM daily. Simple budget restaurant for boiled noodles. 40-50 baht.

- Nai Sow, 3-1 Maitri Chit Rd, +66-2-222-1539. 10AM-10PM daily. A simple restaurant in the north of Yaowarat. It serves the usual Thai dishes, such as tom yam goong. 50 baht.

- Thai Charoen, 454 Charoen Krung Rd, +66-2-221-2633. 9AM-7PM daily. Another one of Yaowarat's budget places, this unpretentious restaurant has all the Chinese specialties for absolute bargain prices. You might want to try the stuffed squid. 30 baht.

- Yen Ta Fo Je Hieng, Yaowarat Rd (at the intersection of Mangkon Rd and Yaowarat Rd). 9AM-6PM daily. This simple restaurant is specialized in "yen ta fo", a Thai seafood dish best explained as rice noodles in red tofu soup. The place does not have an English sign outside, so look for the big red sign with the menu written out in white Thai alphabet. 30 baht.

Pahurat
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- Chacha Restaurant, 458 Chakphet Rd, +66-2-222-5712. Small, simple and unpretentious, it gets the job done with some fine dishes from northern India. The obvious Indian curries are present, but where this restaurant excels is at its wide array of vegetarian dishes. If you're a vegetarian (or even if you're not), you might want to try the allimatter, a spicy dish of chickpea, rice and potatoes. 65 baht.

- Old Siam Plaza Food Court, 3F, Old Siam Plaza, 12 Tri Phet Rd (at the intersection of Phahurat Rd and Tri Phet Rd), +66-2-226-0156. 10AM-9PM daily. The Old Siam has an excellent food court with delicious Thai and Chinese dishes. It works with a coupon system. If you're still hungry afterwards, head for the first floor of the building which has an excellent choice of local sweets and desserts. 90 baht.

- Samrat, Chakphet Rd. 9AM-9PM daily. Another budget restaurant with delicious Indian curries, along with a range of desserts and drinks. 80 baht.

Mid-range
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Yaowarat
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- Chiang Kii, 54 Soi Bamrungrat. 5PM-10PM daily. This old-school restaurant is known to sell some of Bangkok's most expensive rice and fish soup (khao tom plaa). It's a simple dish, but the reason for the 250 baht price tag is the incredibly fresh fish that's used. The owners are an elderly couple that prepares each meal with care, and it is possible to add ingredients to the menu if you wish. In the end, you might feel a little ripped off though. 250 baht.

- China Town Scala, 483-485 Yaowarat Rd (between Nam Sing and the Shanghai Mansion Hotel), +66-2-623-0183. 4:30AM-midnight daily. This is one of the more upmarket restaurants in the area, and a good one for trying shark fin soup or bird's nest. Beforehand you can choose one of the usual Chinese appetizers such as dim sum, spring rolls or prawn crackers. The menus are in English and have pictures so you can just point to the dish of your interest. 300-450 baht.

- Hua Seng Hong, 371-373 Yaowarat Rd, +66-2-222-0635. 8AM-1AM daily. The typical messy place you would expect in Chinatown. It's a plain long hall with many chairs for guests to sit on, filled by locals. There's ample choice between dishes that will be served on multiple small plates. Try the bird's nest soup, shark fin soup or even mussels in batter (hoy tawt). 100-500 baht.

- Nam Sing, 39-47 Soi Phadung Dao (in the alley right off Yaowarat Rd), +66-2-222-6292. 9AM-2AM daily. A large and functional restaurant, best known for its bird nest but there's plenty of other fare on offer. Try the chili crab and pork neck. There is an English menu with pictures available, and they even accept Visa and Mastercard. 200-300 baht.

- Shangarila Restaurant, 306 Yaowarat Rd, +66-2-224-5933. 11AM-10PM daily. This enormous banquet restaurant most resembles the typical dim sum restaurants you can find in Hong Kong. Many families come here in a large group to enjoy dim sum and other Cantonese dishes. 250-500 baht.

- Tang Jai Yoo, 85-89 Yaowa Phanit Rd (just south of the intersection of Yaowarat Rd and Yaowa Phanit Rd), +66-2-224-2167. 11AM-10PM daily. Formerly featured in Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" television show, this open-air seafood restaurant is a must-try for some culinary delights. Start with some stewed turtle soup and then top it up with a whole crab or lobster that comes from one of the tanks inside the restaurant. Their specialty is roasted baby pig skin, very crispy and delicious. When you've finished the skin, the pig will be brought back to the kitchen and its meat will be used for your main dish. 250-500 baht.

- The Canton House, 530 Yaowarat Rd (opposite China Town Scala Restaurant), +66-2-221-3335. 11AM-10PM daily. One of the most popular restaurants for Hong Kong-style dim sum. For 19 baht a piece, it is absolutely a good value, but order a lot of them (five per person) to get full! The atmosphere is frenetic and overwhelming, but you wouldn't expect any different from a place in Chinatown. Service is fast and decent, and its sterile white interior looks remarkably professional for the area. 100-150 baht.

- T&K Seafood (Toi & Kid's Seafood), 49-51 Soi Phadung Dao (at the intersection of Yaowarat Rd and Soi Phadung Dao), +66-2-223-4519. 4:30PM-2AM. Hailed as the best barbecued seafood restaurant in Bangkok, masses of people generally stand out in front of the entrance waiting to be seated. It looks very cheap and basic by Western standards, but its great local atmosphere and delicious food make more than up for it. Try the barbecued prawns as they are the must-try here. If you're tired of the heat, take one of the air-conditioned seats upstairs. 100-500 baht.

Phahurat
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- Royal India Restaurant, 392-1 Chakphet Rd, +66-2-221-6565. 10AM-10PM daily. Tucked off in a creepy alley in the middle of the Indian neighborhood, this simple restaurant with an uninspiring decor and a loud TV (as the owner likes to watch soap operas after 8PM) still can be recommended due to its excellent Indian cuisine. Its curries won many awards over the years. You might want to try the rogan josh. Plenty of other foreign travelers know it as well though. 250 baht.

Chinese food markets
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- Talat Kao (ตลาดเก่า, also known as the Old Market), Trok Issaranuphap (at the intersection of Trok Issaranuphap and Sampeng Lane). 4AM-11AM daily. Instead of the tacky markets seen elsewhere, this is a more sensual market and a great way to experience the more authentic side of Chinatown. Just like Talat Mai, it is mostly a food market with lots of fresh meat, fish, vegetables and fruits for sale. Chinese delicacies like shark fins, dried abalone (shellfish), fried puffed up fish stomachs and steamed bird's nests can also be found, as are non-food products like ant-killer chalk, Chinese medicines and ginseng roots. Its name means Old Market, and is not an understatement, as it has been up and running since the late 18th century. Get up early as it closes down before the afternoon kicks in.

- Talat Mai (ตลาดใหม่, also known as the New Market), Trok Issaranuphap (north of Yaowarat Rd and south of Charoen Krung Rd). 4AM-6PM daily. This market is close to Talat Kao and similar food products are for sale here. Talat Mai means "New Market", though it still is about one hundred years old. Unlike Talat Kao, this market stays open till the early evening.

Drink
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If you're looking for bars or clubs, you are definitely in the wrong neighborhood — but in Yaowarat, you'll always find an opportunity to drink something you have never tried before. You might want to try the snake tonic in the middle of Phadung Dao Road, about 300 meters from the east end of Yaowarat Road. Based on Chinese traditions, an old man can cure any ailments you might have with this brew from the blood and meat of snakes. Not for the fainthearted.

Most visitors just line up at one of Yaowarat Road's numerous hawker stalls for some soda or iced chocolate. Else you can take a seat at one of the area's coffee joints:

- Ek Teng Phu Kee Coffee, Yaowarat Rd (at the intersection of Yaowarat Rd and Song Sawat Rd), +66-2-221-4484. 3:30AM-9:30PM daily. A nice coffee stall down the east end of Yaowarat. A good place to see the people of Yaowarat discuss anything you probably can't understand over a cup of coffee. 50 baht.

- Iea Sae Coffee, Phat Sai Rd (at the intersection of Phat Sai Rd and Yaowa Phanit Rd), +66-2-573-3388. 5AM-10PM daily. As always in Yaowarat, this 80-year old coffee joint does not sell the usual latte or cappuccino - the special treat is Chaozhou coffee, a bittersweet Chinese brew. 50 baht.

Sleep
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:

Budget

Under 1000 baht

Mid-range

1000 baht to 2500 baht

Splurge

Over 2500 baht

Not many people spend the night in Yaowarat or Phahurat, but there are some hotels available for the ones who'd like to explore the area more than just one day. Yaowarat is an interesting medium-cost alternative for Khao San Road, and the atmosphere is much more authentic. Many of the hotels have the same ramshackle feel as those found in the average Chinese city.

Budget
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- 238 Guesthouse, 238 Phahurat Rd (at the corner of Phahurat Road and Charoen Krung Soi 2), +66-2-623-9073, [7]. One of the few basic hotels in the Phahurat area, the 16 rooms of 238 Guesthouse do a decent job. There are air-conditioned rooms with hot showers and fan rooms with cold showers. Additional services in the lobby, such as laundry, WiFi, computer games, food and drinks. 500-700 baht.

- Broad Way Hotel, 445 Yaowarat Rd (near White Orchid Hotel), +66-2-221-1430. This budget hotel is situated at the second floor, as the first floor only has stairs. It has fifty rooms, but they are not in a very good condition. Some rooms have a bathroom and air-conditioning. 200-600 baht.

- Golden Chain Hotel, 231 Yaowarat Rd, +66-2-221-0384 (fax: +66-2-221-9745). Very cheap hotel with 37 rooms that have a TV, refrigerator, table, bathroom and hot water. Also, there is a restaurant at the ground floor. Fan 270 baht, air-conditioning 470 baht, deluxe air-conditioning 570 baht.

- My Guest House, 114 Phat Sai Rd (at the corner of Phat Sai Road and Song Sawat Road), +66-2-223-5963. Just look at the price and you know that this is a very old place fully meant for those who are looking for a very cheap way to get through the night. The rooms are windowless and only have cold water showers available. But the staff is very helpful and there's a good Thai/Chinese restaurant downstairs with an English menu. 150-300 baht.

- River View Guest House, 768 Soi Phanurangsri, +66-2-234-5429, [8]. In the narrow back alleys around Talat Noi, this hotel is really hard to find. It is hidden from the chaos in a filthy residential neighborhood, but that's the charm: it feels like a serene, tranquil and village-like atmosphere, which is quite unusual in a megalopolis like Bangkok. Its roof terrace gives an excellent view over the Chao Phraya River (hence the name). But don't forget that it is a budget hotel that is aimed at backpackers, so it is very basic and not always clean. There are cheaper fan rooms and more expensive air-conditioning rooms, but don't expect a lot from the cheaper end rooms. 450-900 baht.

Hualamphong Station area
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If you need to catch one of the early trains (to Ayutthaya, Kanchanaburi or beyond), it can pay off to spend the night in the area around Hualamphong Train Station. Its location is ideal, as it is at the meeting point of three interesting districts (Siam Square, Silom and Yaowarat), while the area is also served by an MRT station.

- Krung Kasem Srikung Hotel, 1860 Krung Kasem Rd, +66-2-225-8900. This budget hotel is close to Hualamphong Train Station. It's obviously not the prettiest building ever, but its clean sizable rooms are good value. Its location is excellent, both close to Chinatown and to the MRT station to Silom. Try to get a room with an even number as the uneven ones are closer to the road and its street noise. 650 baht.

- Sri Hualamphong Hotel, 445 Rong Muang Rd, +66-2-214-2610. Another old hotel, as is common this area, but this one clearly has a history behind it. It is in a distinctive Chinese style, and must have been an amazing attraction in the past. Now it's kinda dusty and old, but still decent as a station hotel. They only have fan and cold water rooms. 250-400 baht.

- Station Hotel, 518 Rong Muang Rd (down a small food stall soi to the left of the station when exiting Train Station; look high up for the sign), +66-2-214-2794. This hotel is very basic, buts its clean and in a convenient location. Air-conditioned rooms are of better quality than the fan rooms, and feature Western-style toilets. 250-400 baht.

- Train Inn, 428 Rong Mueang Rd (MRT Hua Lamphong, near Hualamphong Train Station), +66-2-215-3055(-66), [9]. Don't expect anything more than a budget hotel here, most travelers just use it to catch an early train, as the train station is only a 3-minutes walk. The whole hotel feels a bit claustrophobic (some rooms don't have windows) and there can be a disgusting smell all over the place. The rooms are okay and include air-conditioning. The staff is polite too. 450-900 baht.

Mid-range
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- China Town Hotel, 526 Yaowarat Rd (at the intersection of Yaowarat Road and Song Sawat Road), +66-2-225-0204, [10]. This mid-range hotel has a diverse selection of rooms. It's cheapest rooms are tiny and simple, but its more upscale rooms feel more like a boutique hotel. Rooms are worn down though, as this is an old hotel that is in desperate need of renovation. Ask to inspect the room before booking permanently. The staff barely speaks any English, but you'll get far enough with non-verbal communication. 1200-4200 baht.

- Grand China Princess Hotel, 215 Yaowarat Rd (at the intersection with Rachawongse Rd), +66-2-224-9977, [11]. The hotel seems a bit dated at first, but its location, good service and breakfast definitely make up for it. Also, the rooms have a nice view over the city and are spotlessly clean. To top it up, there's a panoramic rotating restaurant at the top floor that is really worth it. 2200-4200 baht.

- Grande Ville Hotel (Bangkok China Town Hotel), 903 Mahachai Rd (right at the border in Phahurat, but close to Yaowarat), +66-2-225-0050, [12]. Grande Ville Hotel Bangkok is ideally located in the heart of the Bangkok city; the vibrant bustling commercial district of China Town Bangkok. Just fifteen minutes from express way and subway (MRT), making all parts of the city easily accessible 2000-3400 baht.

- White Orchid Hotel, 409-421 Yaowarat Rd, +66-2-222-1413, [13]. This simple hotel is in the center of Chinatown, and easy to find due to the name tags outside. It's not as luxury as the pictures at the website suggests, and even a bit unclean, but gets the job done. There's internet and a phone available in the lobby, but it's tedious and fairly overpriced. Also, breakfast is free and there's an option for dinner, but compared to the delicacies outside, it is not worth it. 1100-1500 baht.

Splurge
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- Miramar Hotel, 777 Maha Chai Rd (at the intersection of Charoen Krung Road and Maha Chai Road), +66-2-222-4191(-4), [14]. This stylish boutique hotel has an amazing contemporary design, although it does mix in some elements of historic Thai architecture. WiFi is available in all the rooms, but you need to buy an access card at the lobby first. There's also a luxury restaurant and massage facilities. 3000-5500 baht.

- Shanghai Mansion Bangkok, 479 Yaowarat Rd (at the Yaowarat Rd and Song Sawat Rd intersection), +66-2-221-2121, [15]. Probably the best in Chinatown, this is the only boutique hotel in the area. It tries to give the visitor the experience of Shanghai as it was during the 1930s. The rooms are designed in a colorful Chinese-style with bright walls and silk lights. Breakfast is included and WiFi is available. 4000-5500 baht.

Contact
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Despite the amount of people on the streets, there are not many options for public Internet access. Some of the hotels have internet access available, so your best bet is to visit one of them and hope they allow non-guests to use it for a fee. There are no dedicated Internet cafes, so for that, you might want to head off to Siam Square or Khao San Road.

Get out
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- Looking for more temples? Rattanakosin is just northwest of the district and has dozens of them, including the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.

- If you like the street markets in Yaowarat and Phahurat, you might want to attend the much-larger Chatuchak Weekend Market in Phahonyothin.

District Dusit Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By boat

By bus

• See

Dusit Palace

Vimanmek Mansion Museum

Separate entry fee

Other sights

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

Understand
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King Rama V was the first Thai monarch to visit Europe. He was very impressed with what he had seen there, and came up with some drastic ideas to make Bangkok ready for the 20th century. Rattanakosin was a cramped district with many waterways, as opposed to Europe where broad avenues dominated cities like Paris and London. King Rama V decided that most of the original canals in Rattanakosin had to disappear in favor of roads for horse carriages. But this was only the beginning; King Rama V started designing a completely new district from scratch that had to become the "new royal city", a district with grandeur, wide avenues and a leafy, European feel. The result of this process is Dusit.

The best example of this modernization process is the Dusit Palace. It is a massive complex of royal residences and palaces in many different styles, some of them with a European feel. The Italian Renaissance-style Anantasamakhom Throne Hall dominates the stage, and right in front of it in the middle of a wide avenue stands the Rama V Equastrian Statue, a large statue of the King himself that is beautifully adorned with garlands on Chulalongkorn Day (October 23). King Rama V is still popular among the Thai people and his modernization strategy is credited with having saved Siam from Western colonization.

It is the seat of power to this day with nearly all of Thailand's decision-making institutions within its boundaries. Near the Dusit Palace is the National Assembly, a modern building that is the parliament of the country. South of it lies the Venetian Gothic-style Government House, which is mostly used for state ceremonies, and can only be visited once a year on Children's Day (January 9). The Chitralada Palace, the official residence of HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej, lies just east of the Dusit Palace.

A good day to catch the stately feel of the district is at December 2, when Dusit hosts the anuual Trooping the Colour ceremony. Hundreds of officers of the Royal Guard demonstrate their allegiance to the King by parading around Suan Amporn, which is right next to Rama V's statue.

Get in
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Dusit is not particularly easy to reach by public transport. The Chao Phraya Express Boat serves the district, but it is still quite a hike towards the Dusit Palace from the pier. There are plenty of bus lines going through, but we all know what a hassle that is. If you're too lazy to cope with this all, you might just want to go by taxi, which is by far the easiest option.

By boat
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You can enter Dusit using the Chao Phraya Express Boat service. Thewet pier is technically just over the edge in Rattanakosin, but is an excellent entry point into the southwestern area of Dusit. From there, it is a 20 minutes walk to the Dusit Palace.

Orange flag boats connect Thewet with Tha Chang pier (if you're coming from the Grand Palace) and Phra Athit pier (if you're coming from Khao San Road). From downtown, you can take the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station and transfer onto the express boat. A single trip from Sathorn (Taksin) in Silom to Thewet takes about 40 minutes and costs 13 baht. You can take any express boat, as Thewet is one of the most important stops in Rattanakosin, but the yellow flag line is the fastest one.

There are some other express boat piers in Dusit, but they are far off the interesting sights.

By bus
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If you're coming from the Old City, ordinary and air-conditioned bus 70 runs directly to the Dusit Palace. Get on it at Sanam Luang if you happen to be around the Grand Palace, or get on at Ratchadamnoen Klang Road if you live around Khao San Road. Get off outside the Royal Elephant National Museum at Uthong Nai Road. To be sure, ask one the locals where to get off, or you might go too far.

From downtown, take the Skytrain to Victory Monument station. There you can take air-conditioned bus 515 that goes straight to the Dusit Palace over Ratchawithi Road. If this is too much hassle, you can take a metered taxi instead.

See
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Dusit Palace
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The Dusit Palace (Thai: พระราชวังดุสิต) [1], sometimes called New Royal City, Dusit Park, Dusit Garden, or simply "Dusit", is a complex of palaces and royal residences in the south of the Dusit district. The palace was established by King Rama V, the first Thai monarch to visit Europe. He was impressed by the royal parks and residences he had seen there, which were leafy, relaxed, spacious and cool, as opposed to the Grand Palace, which was cramped with buildings for his numerous wives, children and servants. These buildings blocked the air flow inside the Grand Palace, which turned the heat up remarkably. As a substitute, King Rama V started building the Dusit Palace.

The main structure is the Vimanmek Mansion, touted as the world's largest golden teakwood residence and the former home of King Rama V. Get a ticket for 100 baht at the northwestern side of the palace grounds, or enter for free if you still have the Grand Palace entry ticket (remains valid for a week). You can visit all the museums on the palace grounds with one ticket, except the Anantasamakhom Throne Hall and the Royal Elephant National Museum which set back a separate 50 baht. Keep in mind that the same dress codes apply here as in the Grand Palace, so leave shorts and sleeveless shirts in your hotel room. You must store your belongings in a locker before entering each museum. It's free everywhere, except at the Vimanmek Mansion, so if you're on a stringent budget, go to another museum first and leave your belongings there. The palace grounds are open from 9:30AM till 4PM, but the last (compulsory) tour of the Vimanmek Mansion starts around 3:15PM. Some of the smaller museums close at 3:30PM. Allow a full morning and afternoon if you want to see all the buildings and museums. Also make sure you get a map when buying the ticket, as the palace grounds are large and hard to navigate without a map.

Vimanmek Mansion Museum
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Belonging to the Vimanmek Mansion Museum are the residential halls that can be visited using the Vimanmek Mansion entry ticket. In order of visit:

- Vimanmek Mansion (พระที่นั่งวิมานเมฆ), +66-2-628-6300. Touted as the world's largest golden teak building, this palace was the home of King Rama V in the early 20th century. It was originally a summer retreat on the island of Ko Si Chang, but has been transported to Bangkok in small parts in 1901. A guided tour is compulsory and tells you all about the life of King Rama V, and about his collection of fin de siecle royal memorabilia placed inside the building. As Rama V tried to modernize Thailand along European lines, you can also see the first Thai indoor bathroom, the first typewriter with Thai characters and some of the first portrait paintings of Thailand.

- Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall (SUPPORT Museum). Built in the year 1904, this beautiful hall was formerly used for royal meetings and banquets. Its exterior is unique as it is clearly a mix of Victorian and Islamic influences. Home to the largest part of HM Queen Sirikit's SUPPORT Museum, it shows a collection of handicraft masterpieces created by skillful people from the countryside. Some of the items on show are handbags, baskets, pots, jewelry, figurines and silk, all created using traditional techniques. HM Queen Sirikit set up this foundation to preserve and revitalize these traditional Thai handicrafts and techniques, as demand for them has significantly lowered in modern Thai society.

- H.M. King Bhumibol's Photographic Museum No. 2 (HRH Princess Bussaban Bua-Phan Residential Hall). Besides being the current King of Thailand, H.M. King Bhumibol Adulyadej is also a photographer. Some of his works are on display in this building, that used to be the residence of HRH Princess Bussaban Bua-Phan, a sister of King Rama V. The collection includes pictures of the King playing music and pictures showing HM Queen Sirikit and other members of the royal family.

- H.M. King Bhumibol's Photographic Museum No. 1 (HRH Princess Arun-Wadi Residential Hall). This two-story-building was built by King Rama V for his sister HRH Princess Arun-Wadi. The residence has been turned into a photo museum showing pictures taken by the current King of Thailand, HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej. The photos here show projects HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej has supported to improve the conditions of the people living in poorer parts of the country.

- Ancient Clock Museum (HRH Princess Puang Soi Sa-Ang Residential Hall). This is a two-story brick house that King Rama V built for his sister HRH Princess Puang Soi Sa-Ang. It is close to the other three residential halls that were built for his other sisters. The residence has been turned into a museum displaying old clocks and timepieces. The ground floor has 19th-century antique clocks on display from the United Kingdom, Germany and the United States. The rooms upstairs display an art collection, royal gifts and souvenirs of King Rama V.

- Ancient Cloth and Silk Museum (HRH Princess Orathai Thep Kanya Residential Hall). This is the fourth royal residence Rama V has created for one of his sisters, and it is slightly larger than the other three. It has been the residence of HRH Princess Orathai Thep Kanya. Now there are plenty of rare fabrics and textiles on display here that were used during the reigns of King Rama IV and King Rama V. These textiles are around 150 years old. The SUPPORT Foundation also has modern pieces of textiles on show, which have been woven using traditional methods, but come from the 21st-century.

- Prehistoric Ban Chiang Pottery Museum (Krom Luang Vorased Thasuda Residential Hall). This small brick building was the home of Princess Bootri, a daughter of King Rama III. King Rama V considered her his grandmother, as she raised Princess Phra Thepsirin who is the mother of King Rama V. Now it has prehistoric pottery from the Ban Chiang Archaeological Site on show here. This site in Northern Isaan was discovered in 1966 by Stephan Young, and is considered one of the most important prehistoric sites of Southeast Asia. The artifacts on show are thus from a civilization that has existed between 3600 BC and 200 AD.

- Paraphernalia of High Rank Hall No. 1 (Suan Farang Kangsai Residential Hall). This is the former residence of Phra Raja Jaya Dara Rasmi, the daughter of the Prince of Chiang Mai and a consort of King Rama V. The building was completed in 1909. Now it displays some personal paraphernalia of King Rama V, including oil paintings that are about 100 years old. Other items on show are pottery from all over the world (such as China, Germany and the United Kingdom) and old European oil lamps.

- Royal Ceremonial Photography Museum (Suan Hong Residential Hall). This two-story wooden building is the first one you encounter if you enter the complex from its northern entrance. It previously was the residence of Queen Savang Vadhana, the grandmother of King Rama V. It now houses photos and models of the royal barges that are used in the beautiful Royal Barge Ceremony. If you want to see the royal barges yourself, you can visit the Royal Barges National Museum in Thonburi.

- Royal Carriage Museum (Royal Carriage Buildings No. 1 and 3). As King Rama V wanted to modernize Thailand along European lines, he filled up many of the traditional canals and turned them into roads, so horse carriages could be used. It was recorded that 2698 horse carriages were used in Bangkok by 1925. These buildings show off 23 royal carriages that have been used since the late 19th-century. The museum has been opened in 1991 on the 60th birthday of HM Queen Sirikit. It is the only museum where taking pictures is allowed.

- Paraphernalia of High Rank Hall No. 2. Another building that houses a large collection of royal paraphernalia. On show is a royal palanquin with four gables and an ornate roof and palanquins that were used for the ladies of the court.

- HM King Bhumibol Collection Museum No. 2 (Suan Bua Residential Hall). The former residence of Princess Saisavali Bhiromya, the royal consort of King Chulalongkorn. On display is a large collection of Buddha statues and photographs from the reign of King Chulalongkorn. Gifts H.M. King Bhumibol received on state visits to other countries can also be seen.

- The Presentation Hall (Suan Bua Plew). This hall features a multimedia slideshow about the history of the Dusit Palace. It also gives an overview of the different residential halls and their exhibits, so you can more easily decide which ones you want to visit. There's also a collection of pictures showing the Vimanmek Mansion beautifully illuminated at night.

- Pottery from Shipwrecks Museum (Tamnak Ho Residential Hall). Tamnak Ho was residence built in 1903 for the wedding of Prince Paribatra Sukhumbandhu, the Prince of Nakhon Sawan and son of King Rama V. It was originally built within the grounds of the Bang Khun Phrom Palace, but when the Bank of Thailand took office there, the building was moved to the Sukhothai Palace in 1985. Another move happened in 1998, when HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej dismantled the building and moved it to the Dusit Palace. Now the hall displays pottery from the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, which were recovered in 1976 from underwater shipwrecks at the bottom of the Gulf of Thailand (at the coast of the provinces of Rayong and Chantaburi). It is believed that these ships were Chinese and Vietnamese trade junks from the 15th to the 18th century.

- HM King Bhumibol Collection Museum No. 1 (Suan Si Rue Du Residential Hall). This hall is a former residence of HM Queen Saovabha and HRH Princess Valaya Alongkorn, who is HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej's aunt. The Princess Mother has also lived here in her childhood times. On display are gifts and art objects HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej received on the 50th anniversary of his ascension to throne in 1996.

- HM King Bhumibol's Oil Paintings Museum (Suan Kularb Residential Hall). This used to be the residence of HRH Prince Asdang Dejavudh, a son of HM King Rama V and HM Queen Saovabha. The Prince has lived here until his death in 1924. Now it is a museum that set up a display of HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej's oil paintings.

Separate entry fee
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- Anantasamakhom Throne Hall (พระที่นั่งอนันตสมาคม), (behind the Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall), +66-2-628-6300(-5119). 9:30AM-4PM daily, hols closed. This Renaissance and neo-classical-style building was constructed of Italian marble under the commission of King Rama V in 1906. He had the intention to use it as a royal reception and assembly hall. The construction was completed in the reign of King Rama VI. The dome of the throne hall houses picturesque frescoes of royal activities undertaken during the reigns of King Rama I till King Rama VI. The building serves as a venue for royal and state ceremonies and was used as the National Assembly before it was moved to the current building behind it. Currently it houses beautiful arts and crafts made with traditional Thai techniques. 50 baht.

- Royal Elephant National Museum (Changton National Museum), Uthong Nai Rd (near the National Assembly inside the Dusit Palace compound), +66-2-282-3336, [2]. 9:30AM-4PM daily, hols closed. At the site that used to house the royal stables of the King's white elephants, since 1988 it is a museum about these extremely rare creatures. They are considered holy animals in Thailand, as a white elephant with six tusks appeared in a dream to Buddha's mother when she conceived her child. This museum tells you all about the history of white elephants in Thailand and the criteria an elephant must meet in order to be considered a "royal white" elephant. 5 baht.

Other sights
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- Dusit Zoo (สวนสัตว์ดุสิต), 71 Rama V Rd (between the Dusit Palace and the Chitralada Palace), +66-2-281-2000, [3]. 8AM-6PM daily. The zoo is an excellent destination for families and children. It is a lush and green zoo with many flowers, trees and ponds. A fun activity is floating on the water with the foot-peddle boats, or riding the small tram, but it costs 60 baht more. There are many playgrounds and picnic areas, as well as some restaurants in case you get hungry. Oh yeah, and they also have animals, such as giraffes, zebras, deer, hippos, elephants and tigers. 100 baht.

- King Rama V Equestrian Statue (พระบรมรูปทรงม้า), Uthong Nai Rd (at the Uthong Nai Road and Si Ayutthaya Road intersection). The entrance to the Dusit Palace is a gigantic motorway with the statue of King Rama V (Chulalongkorn) riding a stallion right in the center. It is the first monument dedicated to a Thai king, completed in 1908 and inaugurated by King Rama V himself. The monument is paid from public donations, as the Thai people were grateful of Rama V's pursuit of modernizing the country. Each year on December 5, the Trooping of the Colors ceremony is held here. Free.

- Numthong Gallery, Room 109, Bangkok Co-op Housing Bldg, 1129/29 Thoet Damri Rd (slightly north of the Thoet Damri Road and Nakhon Chaisi Road intersection), +66-2-243-4326, [4]. M-Sa 11AM-6PM, Su closed. This art gallery shows works of some of the hottest upcoming Thai artists. The interior is whiter than white, so you can completely take in the beauty of the magnificent paintings. Some of the artists connected to the gallery are Niti Wattuya, Kamin Lertchaiprasert and Natee Utarit.

- Press Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์หนังสือพิมพ์ไทย), Nakhon Ratchasima Rd (opposite Suan Dusit Rajabhat University), +66-2-669-7124(–6). M-F 9AM-5PM, Sa-Su closed. Free.

- Suan Dusit Art Gallery, Nakhon Ratchasima Rd (inside the Suan Dusit Rajabhat University), +66-2-243-9051(-5).

- Wat Benchamabophit (วัดเบญจมบพิตร, also known as the Marble Temple), Si Ayutthaya Rd (at the Si Ayutthaya Road and Rama V Road intersection), +66-2-281-2501. 6AM-6PM daily. The newest of Bangkok's famous temples, this unique wat has been constructed during the reign of King Rama V. It employs European ecclesiastic details, such as stained glass windows, and contains a cloister collection of bronze Buddha images. In the early morning, this is the best place to give food and daily necessities to monks when they gather in front of the temple. 20 baht.

Do
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You might want to visit one of the two daily traditional Thai dance performances at the Dusit Palace. The shows start at 10AM and at 2PM and entry is free.

- Royal Turf Club of Thailand (ราชตฤณมัยสมาคม), 183 Phitsanulok Rd, +66-2-280-0020(-9). Every two weeks on Sunday 12:30PM-6PM. This is a venue for horse races under royal patronage. Races are held every two weeks on Sunday. 50-100 baht.

Buy
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There is not much in the way of shopping in Dusit, but there are a few stores that might interest you.

- Naga House, 315 Soi Ongkarak 13, Soi Samsen 28 (if coming from the Thewet pier, walk onto Samsen Road in northwards direction; then take a right into Samsen Soi 28 (also known as Soi Ongkarak); after a while, take a left into Ongkarak Soi 13 and walk straight on), +66-2-669-3416. This antiques store is set in a wonderful teak house from the 1920s. There is plenty of furniture on site, including silverware baskets from Northern Thailand, teak tables from China and lacquerware from Myanmar.

- Thewet Plant Market, (right in front of Thewet Pier). This pot plant market is along the bank of Khlong Phadung Krung Kaseman. It has plenty of tropical plants for sale, as well as the seeds so you can grow them yourself. You can buy one if you wish, but first check with authorities whether you are allowed to import them to your country! Even if you're not actually buying anything, it's still nice to see this local market in action.

Eat
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Dusit is not a district for splurge meals, but the guest houses serve decent Thai food (see Sleep).

- Kaloang Seafood, 2 Si Ayutthaya Rd (in the alley near the National Library, it is right at the Chao Phraya river), +66-2-281-9228. 10AM-10PM daily. This off-the-beaten-track restaurant is typical Bangkokian with its simple plastic chairs and unassuming interior. But its delicious seafood is a bargain and you get a nice view over the Chao Phraya River. The local favorite is the seafood platter, which gives you a lot of value for a small price. You might also want to try the yam pla duk foo, a spicy grilled fish salad, or the larb goong, a spicy shrimp salad with banana blossoms. 200 baht.

- Krua Apsorn, 503-505 Samsen Rd (From Thewet pier, turn left at Samsen Road, walk past the National Library, pass the small canal and you will find it at the left-hand side), +66-2-668-8788. M-F 10:30AM-7:30PM, Sa 10:30AM-6PM, Su closed. A great restaurant that places emphasis on its authentic Thai dishes prepared in a traditional way. While it looks unpretentious at first, it has won the "best restaurant" contest of Bangkok Post in 2006, and has served members of the Thai royal family. The staff watch local soap operas on the TV set and their children run around as if its a kind of kindergarten; but forget the surroundings, it's all about the food and a must try is the mouth-watering crab omelette. 100-250 baht.

Drink
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Don't expect any nightlife in Dusit — for that, better head off for nearby Khao San Road. If you just want to fresh up with a glass of lemonade, the guest houses in the southwestern part of Dusit suffice.

Sleep
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The wide avenues with heavy traffic in Dusit are by no means compelling places to stay the night. Most budget travellers sleep in nearby Khao San Road, while upper class hotels can be found in Sukhumvit. The adjacent Siam Square has some of both worlds. If you do want to stay in Dusit, and with that try something different, some small guest houses have congregated in the southwestern corner of the district, close to Thewet pier.

- Backpackers Lodge, 85 Si Ayutthaya Soi 14 (past Tavee Guesthouse at the end of the soi), +66-2-282-3231. This is a basic family-run guest house with clean and decent rooms. As the name implies, it's really meant for backpackers on a budget as it has a community area downstairs. It is in a really quiet location far off from any noise, that's why not a lot of visitors seem to go here. They also have a restaurant with the usual Thai and western dishes. Discounts are available if you stay for a longer period of time. 200-250 baht.

- Shanti Lodge, 37 Si Ayutthaya Soi 16 (walk towards the river from the Samsen Road and Si Ayutthaya Road intersection), +66-2-281-2497, [5]. Decorated like a tropical "oasis", Shanti Lodge is surrounded by plants and trees and feels like a tranquil environment in the middle of a big metropolis. Its location is ideal, close to the river and to Rattanakosin. Expect basic rooms though, that actually are quite noisy, and the staff seems quite ignorant (even by Thai standards). There's also a restaurant (7:30AM-11PM daily) and a Thai massage available. 400-750 baht, dorms 200 baht per person.

- Sri Ayutthaya Guest House, 23/11 Si Ayutthaya Soi 14 (Thewet pier), +66-2-282-5942. Easily the best budget hotel in Dusit. The atmosphere is homey as you stay in a simple house made of wood. It feels kind of tranquil; while there are other backpackers around, it really is in a local neighborhood with Thai families. Rooms are obviously basic, but good, and if you choose an air-conditioned room you also get a good bathroom. Like the other guest houses, there is a restaurant downstairs with Thai, western and vegetarian food. 500-700 baht.

- Suan Dusit Place Hotel, 295 Nakhon Ratchasima Rd (inside the Suan Dusit Rajabhat University complex, at the Nakhon Ratchasima Road and Ratchawithi Road intersection), +66-2-241-7571, [6]. This is a basic hotel, but it is clean and probably the closest hotel to the Vimanmek Mansion. It mostly caters to local teachers, students and convention attendees who want to stay near the Suan Dusit Rajabhat University. That's why the staff's English is not that good, but at least they try their best. The restaurant serves good Thai meals and is not too expensive. 900 baht.

- Tavee Guesthouse, 83 Si Ayutthaya Soi 14 (walk towards the river from the Samsen Road and Si Ayutthaya Road intersection), +66-2-280-1447. Simple budget hotel with clean and tidy rooms. There's a nice common space with wooden furniture and a restaurant that is open 24 hours a day. 300-450 baht, dorms 120 baht per person.

Contact
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- National Library (หอสมุดแห่งชาติ), Samsen Rd, +66-2-281-5212, [7]. M-F 9AM-7:30PM, Sa-Su 9AM-5PM. Internet access for all visitors limited for just one hour. You must complete a form and deposit your passport to the library staff. Also, games, chat and USB-devices are officially not allowed. Free.

District Thonburi Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By boat

By public transit

By bus

• Get around

• See

Wat Arun

Houses of worship

Museums

Parks and monuments

• Do

Canal tour

Entertainment

• Buy

Floating markets

Land-based markets

Shopping malls

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

• Cope

• Get out

Understand
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Originally, "Bangcok" referred to a village in the area that today roughly corresponds to the neighborhoods of Bangkok Noi and Bangkok Yai. At that time, the Chao Phraya river had a completely different course than it does today. The Chao Phraya had a horseshoe shape that is similar to the current course of the Bangkok Noi and Bangkok Yai canals. One theory on the origin of the name is that Bangcok came from "Bang Ko", which means "island village" in Thai, referring to the village that was almost completely surrounded by the Chao Phraya river. Bangcok was the first part of Thonburi to be settled, as its location was a convenient storage point for trade ships that sailed north towards Ayutthaya. The horseshoe shape of the Chao Phraya river slowed down trading ships, and in 1542, a small canal was dug across the base of the meander to shorten sailing time. The strength of the current eroded the canal's banks, and over time the new canal became the main course of river. Bangcok was on the east bank of the old course of the river, but on the west bank of the new course.

As sailing times quickened, Bangcok became a tax collection port and customs office for foreign traders sailing to Ayutthaya. In 1665, King Narai the Great ordered the construction of Vichaiyen Fort near the mouth of the Bangkok Yai canal to protect Ayutthaya from foreign invasions. This fort is now known as the Vichaiprasit Fort and can still be seen from the Chao Phraya Express Boat today. With it, the village got the status of fortified city and was renamed Thonburi. When the city of Ayutthaya was burnt to the ground by Burmese armies in 1767, General Taksin was in charge of the resistance. A capable military leader, he conquered back Siam within a year and took hold of large parts of Southeast Asia in the following decade. He became King of Siam and established Thonburi as the new capital of the country. He created his palace close to the fort, while the residence of General Phraya Chakri (who would later become King Rama I) was near the current location of Wat Rakhang.

In 1779, King Taksin had proclaimed himself a sotapanna (or divine figure), striking against the will of the powerful Buddhist monkhood. The state was in economic turmoil, there was rampant corruption and famine struck the country. King Taksin tried to maintain order with harsh punishment and purges. When General Phraya Chakri was fighting out a war with Cambodia, a rebellion took hold of Thonburi, forcing King Taksin to step down. Shortly after, he was secretly executed. When General Phraya Chakri returned, he was offered the throne and became King Rama I, the first King of the Chakri dynasty. He made Rattanakosin the new capital of Siam, as he believed that city would be easier to defend against foreign invasions. This was the end of a brief era now known as the Thonburi Period. It wasn't the end of "Bangcok" — foreigners never adapted to the changes and kept using the name, even for the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya river while that is technically incorrect.

Thonburi stayed relatively undeveloped, especially compared to its neighbor at the other side of the river. The economy was mostly agricultural-based with fruit orchards crisscrossed by canals. Many durian species have originated in Thonburi, including mon thong, chanee and kan yao. Most of the fruit orchards have disappeared as Thonburi became more developed. It wasn't until 1932 when Thonburi became physically linked to Bangkok for the first time with the construction of the Memorial Bridge. Thonburi's distinct identity only held out for forty more years, when it was incorporated into the city of Bangkok in 1971.

Get in
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By boat
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The easiest way to get into Thonburi is by boat. The Chao Phraya Express Boat goes up and down the river for 13 baht. Sometimes cashiers want you to buy the ticket before embarking the boat, but it is allowed to buy tickets inside. If going north from Sathorn (Taksin) pier (from Silom), the first pier on the Thonburi side is Wang Lang (Siriraj). It's the easiest point of entry as all lines stop there and the Wang Lang area is one of the more interesting ones in Thonburi. If you're heading south from Phra Athit pier (from Khao San Road), Wang Lang is the second pier on the Thonburi side. When you're heading for the Royal Barge National Museum, disembark at the Phra Pin Klao Bridge pier.

There are also numerous ferries crossing the river from the Rattanakosin and Silom sides. Many Bangkok commuters make use of these ferries, as they quickly cross the river for only 3 baht. If you're visiting Wat Arun, head for Tha Tien pier at the Rattanakosin side and embark take the Wat Arun ferry service. Other notable ferry services are from Tha Chang to Wang Lang (Siriraj) and from Tha Phra Chan to Wang Lang (Siriraj).

By public transit
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Most travelers will visit Thonburi as a day-trip from Khao San Road, Sukhumvit or Silom. After nearly ten years of delays, the BTS Skytrain connection to Thonburi finally opened in May 2009. The only two stations on the Thonburi side (Wongwian Yai and Krung Thonburi) aren't near anything particularly interesting though. The best way to get into Thonburi is by getting off the Skytrain at Saphan Taksin station, near the end of the Silom Line, and taking the Chao Phraya Express Boat up the river.

By bus
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Getting into Thonburi by bus is very complicated, so only use city buses as a last resort. Bus travel is necessary to reach some destinations though, such as the Taling Chan Floating Market. If heading there, take ordinary and air-conditioned bus 79 from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, which is near Khao San Road. Make sure you take the bus into the right direction (crossing the river) and ask local passengers when to get off or you might get lost.

Get around
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Thonburi is a vast district, and getting around it is not easy. The area can hardly be explored on foot, as sights are spread far off throughout the district, most of the main roads are heavily congested with commuters and the area is lacking foot bridges over its numerous canals. This is why most travelers take a canal tour (see the Do-section). But this doesn't mean the area cannot be experienced on your own at all — most of the roads can be walked on, and footbridges do exist, just don't say you haven't been warned.

See
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Wat Arun
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Wat Arun (วัดอรุณ), also known as the Temple of Dawn, is an iconic temple at the west bank of the Chao Phraya river, right next to the Navy Base. This is a royal temple in the highest rank and it is by far the most visited tourist attraction in Thonburi. It is easily accessible with the three-baht ferry boat from Wat Pho in Rattanakosin. Ferries take off about every 10 to 15 minutes and operate daily from 6AM till about 10PM. Walking around the temple gardens and looking at it from a distance is free, but if you want to enter the temple compound and climb the steep stairs, it costs 50 baht (for foreigners at least). Entering the complex can be recommended, as otherwise you won't see the small porcelain pieces it is decorated with. The temple grounds are opened from 7:30AM till 5:30PM. Thousands of foreign tourists visit the temple everyday, many of them by canal tour early in the morning.

A temple has occupied this site since the Ayutthaya period. It was first named Wat Makok, which means "Olive Temple", named after the many olive orchards in the area. After the fall of Ayutthaya, General Taksin was at war trying to conquer Siam back from Burmese armies. When he arrived in Thonburi in the morning, he reputedly saw this magnificent temple during sunrise. Since then, the temple got the name Wat Chaeng or Wat Arun, which means the Temple of Dawn. Wat Arun served as King Taksin's royal temple and was inside the Wang Derm Palace grounds, his personal residence. In the Thonburi Period, Wat Arun housed the recaptured Emerald Buddha for several years, before it was moved to the Grand Palace in Rattanakosin in 1785. In the Rattanakosin-era, Wat Arun lost its special status to Wat Phra Kaew in the Grand Palace, but it remained one of the most iconic temples of Thailand. It is featured prominently on ten-baht coins and as the logo of the Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT).

The magnificent main prang is in Thai called the Phra Prang Wat Arun. Overlooking the Chao Phraya river, it is not only the symbol of Thonburi, but a world-famous landmark and one of the most photographed icons of Thailand. The prang was originally built during the Ayutthaya period and is in a classic Ayutthayan style. It was reconstructed and enlarged during the reign of King Rama II, and was completely finished in the reign of King Rama III. The height is reported by different sources to be between 66 and 86 meters. It was the tallest structure in Bangkok until the advent of the modern skyscraper. The main prang and its four satellite prangs are beautifully decorated with colorful broken Chinese porcelain pieces. It is believed that these broken porcelain pieces come from Chinese trade ships that were shipwrecked at sea.

Steep steps lead up to two terraces that surround the prang. From there, you have a nice view of the Chao Phraya river with the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and even downtown if you look far enough. Beside the famous central prang, be sure to take a look at the main chapel, the image hall, the Chinese style bell tower, and the open pavilions overlooking the river.

Houses of worship
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- Santa Cruz Church (Wat Kudichin), 112 Tesaban 1 Road (use the boardwalk; it is between Memorial Bridge and Wat Kalayanamit), +66-2-466-0347. The Santa Cruz Church is an interesting Catholic church right at the banks of the Chao Phraya river. After the fall of Ayutthaya by a Burmese invasion, King Taksin commanded that the peoples who escaped had to settle down in Thonburi, the new capital of Siam. The King dictated that the Chinese group had to settle down around the area of Wat Kalayanamit, while the Portuguese people would have their houses built along the bank of the Chao Phraya river. The Portuguese had given military support to King Taksin to help him drive out the Burmese from Siam. In recognition of their support, King Taksin granted the Portuguese a plot of land for the building of a church. The first Santa Cruz Church was a wooden church built in 1770. When that church got into a state of decay, a new Chinese-style church was built here, as it was nearby the Chinese community that stayed at Wat Kalayanamit. That church was called "Kudichin church" (Chinese church), and the Portuguese who settled here were called "Farang Kudichin", which means "Westerners at the Chinese shrine". In 1916, the third and current Santa Cruz Church was built during the reign of King Rama IV. The church has a magnificent Italian-style architecture. The community around it still feels authentic, and is the birthplace of a famous kind of cupcake, the "Khanom Farang Kudichin".

- Wat Kalayanamit, 656 Tesaban 1 Rd (walk over the boardwalk from the Memorial Bridge, or take the ferry from Pak Khlong Talat pier). Situated on the mouth of Bangkok Yai canal at the west bank of the Chao Phraya, this massive temple is popular among the Thai-Chinese community. It was founded in 1825 by a Chinese nobleman who donated his own residence and bought a piece of land to built a temple. This was during the reign of King Rama III, when trade with China was flourishing. The viharn is in a typical Thai style, but the two flanking buildings look Chinese. Inside the viharn is a large Buddha image named Phraputtatrirattananayok, which is 15.44 meter tall and 11.75 meter wide. It is so large that it almost entirely filled the interior of the hall. The image is called Sampokong by worshippers of Thai-Chinese descent. The inner courtyard is decorated with statues and gates imported from China. Every day during the Chinese New Year festival, this temple is crowded with thousands of Thai-Chinese visitors.

- Wat Prayoon (Wat Prayurawongsawas), Thesaban Sai 1 (take the express boat to the Memorial Bridge pier and cross the Memorial Bridge on foot), +66-2-465-5592. 9AM-4:30PM daily. This temple is close to the banks of the Chao Phraya river. The first thing you see is its large white chedi in Ayutthayan style; it is the only chedi of this style in Bangkok. King Rama II tried to create a similar chedi at the Golden Mount, but the ground could not support it and that chedi collapsed. If you want a nice nightly picture of the chedi, walk on the Memorial Bridge at dusk when the chedi is beautifully illuminated. However, most visitors come from the Khao Mor Cemetery, a large mound at the entrance of the temple. The mound is covered with many different shrines, chedis, spirit houses and even a doll house. There's a lot to take in, but its certainly a fun walk. The shallow pool has some turtles swimming around, which you can feed with food bought from the stalls outside. Another attraction is the small museum with only two rooms, having Khon masks, papier-mache pigs and other cultural objects on display. 30 baht.

- Wat Rakhang (also known as the Temple of the Bells, and formerly known as Wat Bang Wa Yai), Trok Wat Rakhang, 250 Arun-Amarin Road (take the ferry from Tha Chang pier to Wat Rakhang pier), +66-2-418-1079. 6AM-6PM daily. This temple was built during the Ayutthaya period, later it was reconstructed and upgraded as a royal temple by King Taksin. The temple was named the "Temple of the Bells" due to the discovery of a huge bell at this temple in the reign of King Rama I. This significant temple was the residence of many supreme patriarchs of the Rattankosin period, including Somdej Toah, a highly respected monk in the reign of King Rama V. Things of note are the beautiful mural paintings in the ordination hall, the image hall and the bell tower. Outside is a row of bells lined up. It is believed that ringing all of them in a row will bring good luck. The front of the building is right at the banks of the Chao Phraya river, and it is beautifully lit at nighttime. Free.

- Wat Suwannaram, 33 Charan Sanitwong Rd (at the banks of the Bangkok Noi canal). This is a big royal temple on the banks of the Bangkok Noi canal. It was built during the reign of King Rama I and renovated during the reign of King Rama III. Inside are exceptional murals depicting the Jutaku, deities and the Buddha in subduing Mara posture. These works of art of the early Rattanakosin period (early 19th century) are considered some the best survived mural paintings in Bangkok. One particularly interesting mural is a Dutch person holding a telescope. At that time, the Dutch were associated with modern inventions that were very popular in Siam. Unfortunately, the temple is often closed, so it is hard to actually see the murals.

Museums
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- Bangkok Noi Museum, Charan Sanitwong Rd (next to Wat Suwannaram, close to the Bangkok Noi canal). W-Su 9AM-4PM, M-Tu closed. This museum is about the history of Bangkok Noi and of the village of "Bangcok" that used to be located here. This is more fascinating than you would think, as Bangkok Noi was an important trading center in the Ayutthaya period. Also the Rattanakosin period has been covered, when most of Bangkok Noi consisted of fruit orchards. Many people worked as craftsmen, such as making bronze bowls. These fruits and bowls are on display. Over time, Thonburi became more urbanized, but here you can still see what it used to be like. Free.

- House of Museums (บ้านพิพิธภัณฑ์), 170/17 Mu 17, Khlong Pho Land, Soi Khlong Pho 2, Sala Thammasop Rd, Thawi Watthana (drive along Phutthamonthon Sai 2 Road toward the railway track or Khlong Maha Sawat; at the end of the road, turn left onto Sala Thammasop Road and follow the sign to the museum), +66-8-9666-2008. The exhibition features a collection of old and modern items that were used every day by both townspeople and villagers. Items like as toys, books, stationery and kitchen and household utensils throughout the years are on display, forming a legacy of the past to be inherited by the present. The modern 3.5-story building of 3 chambers covers a total area of 232 square meters. The first floor shows an old atmosphere of shop houses that date from before 1957, including a cafe, drugstore, barber shop, and others. There are also rooms with changing exhibitions and various topics. 30 baht.

- Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn Anthropology Centre (ศูนย์มานุษยวิทยาสิรินธร), 20 Borommarachachonnani Rd (1 km from the Taling Chan Floating Market), +66-2-880-9429, [1]. 9AM-4PM daily. This center gathers anthropological data scattered throughout the country and brings the information together. More interesting for visitors are the variety of exhibitions taking place here, such as on social and cultural development in Thailand, ethno-archaeology and Thai ceramic collections. Also the biography of Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn can be viewed. Free.

- Royal Barge National Museum (พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติเรือพระราชพิธี), Arun-Amarin Rd (walk over the Phra Pinklao Bridge, take a left into Wat Dusitaram Road, passing the Wat Dusitaram School, then walk through an alley that snakes through a residential neighborhood; follow the signs until you reach the museum, so you won't get lost), +66-2-424-0004, [2]. 9AM-5PM daily. On the mouth of the Bangkok Noi canal, this museum displays several Royal Barges used for state ceremonies on the Chao Phraya river. The ornately carved barges take the form of famous mythical creatures from the Ramayana epic. The most impressive is the Suphannahongse (or Golden Swan), which was built in 1911 during the reign of King Rama IV. This 46-meter craft was carved from one single piece of teakwood! The bow resembles a mythical swan and is adorned with gold lacquer and glass jewels. Most visit this museum as part of a canal tour, but it can also be visited on foot.

- Siriraj Museums, Phran Nok Rd (inside Siriraj Hospital complex), +66-2-419-7000(-6363). M-Sa 9AM-4PM, Su closed. These museums are old and dusty, with not a lot of English signs. Most of the visitors are Thai students, who have to visit for their study, but some foreigners like to visit as well. The Forensic Medicine Museum is the most popular one for its creepy collection of medical oddities similar to the Mütter Museum in Philadelphia. There are many other museums inside the complex, including the Congdon Anatomical Museum, Sood Sangvichien Prehistoric Museum, Songkran Niyomsane Forensic Medicine Museum, Parasitology Museum, Ellis Pathological Museum and the Veekit Veeranuvati Museum on traditional Thai medicine. 40 baht.

- Sunthorn Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์สุนทร), 82/10 Sukhaphiban 1 (off Phetkasem Road near Lotus Supermarket), +66-2-802-0863(-4), [3]. Sa 11AM-5PM, Su-F closed. This is a private museum operated by Mr. Sunthorn Chunothaisawat. It houses invaluable antiques from different periods such as BMW Motorcycles from the interwar period, various types of old clocks, lamps, children toys made out of zinc, raios, irons, type writers, fans and sewing machines. All of these are well-maintained and in a good condition. 200 baht.

Parks and monuments
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- King Taksin the Great Monument (พระบรมราชานุสาวรีย์พระเจ้าตากสินมหาราช), Prachathipok Rd (BTS Wongwian Yai). This is an equestrian statue situated at the Wongwian Yai Circle near the railway station of the same name. The king is portrayed with his right hand holding a sword, measuring approximately 9 metres in height from his horse's feet to the spire of his hat. The statue rests on a reinforced concrete pedestal of about 9 by 2 meters with 3.90 meters in height. There are four frames of stucco relief on the two sides of the pedestal. The opening ceremony of this monument was held on April 17, 1954 and a homage-paying fair takes place annually at December 28. Free.

- Princess Mother Memorial Park (อุทยานเฉลิมพระเกียรติสมเด็จพระศรีนครินทราบรมราชชนนี), Somdet Chao Phraya Soi 3 (near the Memorial Bridge), +66-2-437-7799, [4]. Garden 6AM-6PM daily, museum 8:30AM-4:30PM daily, hols closed. This beautiful park is built near the Wat Anongkharam community where Somdej Phra Srinagarindra Boromarajajonani, HRH the Princess Mother (the mother of King Rama IX) had resided during her childhood. The park comprises a full scale model of the Princess Mother's house. The old buildings were renovated as exhibition halls, displaying the life story of HRH the Princess Mother and the history of the Wat Anongkharam community that lives here.

Do
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Canal tour
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Animal conditions

Many tours through Thonburi's backwaters include a visit to the so-called Thonburi Snake Farm. Besides a snake show performance, it is also a small zoo with a number of animals kept in cages for the purpose of entertaining tourists. Conscious travelers might want to know that the animals in this snake farm live in very bad conditions and in small cages. There are no signs to inform the visitor, as the animals are only meant for the sole purpose of entertainment. If you don't want to visit the farm for these reasons, make sure you book a canal tour that does not include the farm. For an alternative, visit the animal friendly Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm in Silom.

Nineteenth-century Bangkok was laced with canals, giving the capital the designation "Venice of the East". As Bangkok turned into a bustling metropolis, Thonburi's surviving canals and the Chao Phraya river provide memorable vignettes of the traditional waterborne way-of-life that once was. No wonder then that most travelers visit the district by boat. Many of the tours and floating markets feel pretty set-up though, but in mornings you might still encounter an authentic floating vendor, paddling from house to house trying to sell some just-prepared food.

The most convenient option is to take a fixed-price trip, basically a package deal that usually includes a visit to Wat Arun, the Royal Barge Museum and a floating market. Such a tour can obviously be booked through a travel agency, but it's easier to head straight to the pier yourself and get going. There are two tour companies, one operating from Tha Chang pier in Rattanakosin, the other operating from Si Phraya pier in Silom (near River City shopping center).

- Mitchaophraya Travel Service, +66-2-225-6179. Operating from Tha Chang pier, there offers plenty of tours on offer. All of them include Wat Arun, the Royal Barge National Museum and a floating market. At weekdays it will pass by the "Thonburi Floating Market", which is set-up for tourists and not worth it. Better take the tour at weekends, when it goes by the Taling Chan Floating Market (which is also not authentic, but at least feels more genuine and is a lot more lively). The one-hour tour goes through the Bangkok Noi and Mon canals for 800 baht. The 90-minute tour also takes in the Bangkok Yai canal for 1000 baht. The complete tour takes two hours, costs 1200 baht, and goes deeper into Thonburi, where you'll visit an orchid farm.

- Pandan Tour Company, 780/488 Charoen Krung Rd, Bang Kho Laem, +66-8-7109-8873, [5]. 8AM-4PM daily. This company offers whole-day tours, which are slightly different whether you're taking them on weekdays or weekends. The weekday tour starts at the Wat Sai Floating Market and then takes you along an exotic orchid nursery, a "Mud in Jungle Temple", a traditional wooden house of a local miniature boat making family and an "Artists' House" for a traditional Thai puppet show. The weekend tour takes you to the Artists House first and then brings you to the "Mud in Jungle Temple" and the Lat Mayom Floating Market. The weekend tour is recommended as the Lat Mayom Floating Market is more authentic and more fun than the Wat Sai Floating Market. These tours use a Thai traditional teak boat, and life-vests are offered. Unlike other tours, you can ask the staff to stop anywhere along the canals. Call ahead for inquiries (ask for Tom, the Thai-American owner). 1000+ baht.

- The Boat Tour Centre. Operating from Si Phraya pier, they offer a one-hour tour for 800 baht and a two-hour for 1500 baht. The one-hour tour is a quick tour of the Chao Phraya river. At the two-hour tour, you will either visit the Wat Sai Floating Market (if arriving around 8AM on weekdays) or go up north to Wat Arun and the Royal Barge National Museum (at any other time).

Trips can also be arranged by chartering a boat along the canals at the east side of the river. The most convenient place to do this is Tha Chang pier or Tha Tien pier at the Rattanakosin side of the river. But it's also possible at Oriental pier in Silom and at the Bangkok Information Centre under Phra Pinklao Bridge (near Khao San Road). Major canals in Thonburi which tourists can take a boat trip through are the Bangkok Noi canal, Bangkok Yai canal, Daan canal and Chakphra canal. Be prepared to bargain, but don't pay more than around 1000-1500 baht for a two-hour trip (without any stops).

Another option is the boat service from Tha Chang pier. It operates every morning from 6:30AM till 11AM and departs every half hour (or when it has enough passengers). Boat fare is only 30 baht per person and you'll visit an orchard and a floating market.

Entertainment
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- Major Cineplex Pinklao (เมเจอร์ ปิ่นเกล้า), 7/1 Borommaratchachonnani Rd (opposite Central Plaza Pinklao), +66-2-433-8341. 10:30AM-10PM daily. This is a large and luxury cinema, and compared to Western standards, it is an absolute bargain to watch a movie here. All the new Hollywood releases are on show, as are Thai movies (which are subtitled in English). If you have to wait about one or two hours before the movie starts, you can do some shopping or have some food downstairs. 150 baht.

- Patravadi Theatre (ภัทราวดีเธียเตอร์), 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang (slightly north of Wat Rakhang), +66-2-412-7287(-8), [6]. Showtime is on Friday, Saturday and Sunday.. Renowned for its lavish productions, this outdoor theatre has gained popularity through its modern adaptations of classical Asian literature, with each play demonstrating an ingenious blend of various theatrical techniques.

Buy
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Floating markets
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- Klong Lad Mayom Floating Market, Bang Ramat Rd (next to Lad Mayom canal; from the Southern Bus Terminal, go south along Phutthamonthon Sai 1 Road for 2 km, then take a right into Bang Ramat Road (at the Bang Ramat Market) and continue your way for 1,5 km). Su 9:30AM-4PM, M-Sa closed. This is a major attraction, with a pleasant and shaded atmosphere. The floating market corresponds to both sides of the Lat Mayom canal on Bang Ramat Road. This relatively new floating market dates from November 2004, and is not frequently visited by boats. However, it does have many shop stalls, a small boat museum, several walking paths around the market, small restroom facilities, a few outdoor restaurants, and a variety of foods and merchandise for sale. Occasionally, it does feature live outdoor performances by local children or organizations. It is only open on Sundays and easily accessible (and used as a prolonged stopover) on some tourist tour boats from Taling Chan Floating Market.

- Taling Chan Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำตลิ่งชัน), Chak Phra Rd (take bus 79 from either Ratchadamnoen Klang Road or Siam Square), +66-2-424-1742. Sa-Su 7AM-5PM, M-F closed. This major attraction along Chak Phra canal is held every weekend. It is more convenient than taking a canal trip to Wat Sai and also feels more authentic and fun. It blends a rural market with the canal side way of life. The vendors, who are in fact local farmers, take their products including plants, vegetables, fruits, fish and various kinds of food to this market for sale. There are also floating food shops and a private-run canal tour service for visitors who enjoy the district's canal side way of life. It is accessible by car and bus, not too far from Bangkok's Southern Bus Terminal. Free.

- Wat Sai Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำวัดไทร), 11 Moo 2, Ekkachai Rd (take a canal tour from Tha Chang pier; can also be visited with bus 43 and 120 from Wongwien Yai). 6AM-9PM daily. This floating market along Khlong Sanam Chai used to be a popular tourist site for visitors to admire the traditional canal side way of life. Unfortunately, construction of new roads within the area left the floating market abandoned. It was recently revived, though it does not feel as authentic as it used to. It is still interesting to book a canal tour along this historic waterway, and enjoy the floating market that is crowded with boats that have farm produced products for sale. Free.

Land-based markets
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- Bang Ramat Market, Bang Ramat Rd (from the Southern Bus Terminal, go south along Phutthamonthon Sai 1 Road for 2 km; the market is at the corner of Phutthamonthon Sai 1 Road and Bang Ramat Rd). afternoon-evening daily. A local outdoor marketplace filled with food, refreshments, clothing, souvenirs and miscellaneous items by various independent local vendors. The market has a variety of clothes for sale, including new, used, Western and Eastern style clothes. Also for sale are CDs/DVDs/VCDs, children's toys, phone accessories, purses, weapons (handguns, hunting knifes, ammunition), toiletries, ceremonial gifts, souvenirs and other small accessories. Children can go to the large inflatable playpen. It is popular and well-known by locals, but barely-known or visited by tourists. It is best to visit the market in the middle of the afternoon, when it is most lively.

- Bang Phrom Market, (near the intersection of Wat Kaeo-Phutthamonthon Sai 1 and Kaeo Ngoen Thong Rd in the Bang Phrom subdistrict). Another local outdoor marketplace, similar to the one in Bang Ramat, but slightly larger, busier, and more crowded.

- Klongsan Pier (ท่าเรือคลองสาน), (Klongsan pier). Located in a soi off Charoen Nakhon Road, the area offers items like ready-to-wear clothes for teenagers and shoes at relatively low prices.

- Wang Lang Market (Ladies Market), (Wang Lang (Siriraj) pier). Wang Lang is a small street filled with shops and carts. It is often called the Ladies Market, because the many stores cater to women's clothes, shoes, bags and accessories. Just wander around and try to find that bargain you've always been looking for. It becomes very crowded around noon, when the locals get out and have lunch. At that time it might be hard to find your way around. Wednesdays is the best day to go, as the new second hand products arrive that day, but the market is alive and kicking at any day of the week.

Shopping malls
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- Central Plaza Pinklao, 7/1 Borommaratchachonnani Rd, +66-2-802-9000. M-Th 10:30AM-9:30PM, F-Su 10:30AM-10PM. The largest shopping mall and office tower complex of Thonburi, it includes six floors (with a basement floor) with stores, stalls, restaurants, banks and a karaoke lounge. The Central Department Store is inside and takes up many floors. The other usual chain stores are present as well, as are stores selling books, electronics and clothes. The easiest way to get there is by taxi, but there are also buses and songthaews available.

- Major Cineplex Pinklao, 7/1 Borommaratchachonnani Rd (across the road from the Central Pinklao shopping complex). Easily accessible by a pedestrian footbridge from Central Plaza Pinklao, it features several floors of stores, stalls, restaurants, and a large movie theater (split into two separate floors).

- Makro Supercenter, 521/27 Charan Sanitwong Rd, +66-2-864-5714(-30). An indoor shopping complex, which features the European-style wholesale retail supermarket Makro, a cafeteria, a bank, and some shop stalls.

- Tesco Lotus Supercenter, 3 Borommaratchachonnani Rd, +66-2-884-6027. 9AM-11PM daily. A big indoor complex featuring a Walmart-style supermarket. You can also find a Dunkin' Donuts here, a pharmacy, several restaurants and other small shops.

- The Mall Bang Khae, 275 Phetkasem Rd (at the intersection of Phetkasem Road and Kanchanaphisek Road), +66-2-487-1000. M-F 10:30AM-10PM, Sa-Su 10AM-10PM. A large shopping mall complex that has many floors of stores, stalls, restaurants, and a movie theater. It is located down the street from Kasemrad Hospital.

Eat
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If you want to eat like the locals, or if you are on a budget, head for Wang Lang Market. The main roads and their side streets are filled with plenty of unnamed restaurants and simple carts selling meals for less than 50 baht. It is known as one of the best places in Thailand to get food from Southern Thailand. The story goes that Southern Thais settled in this area as trains from the south used to arrive at the Thonburi Train Station nearby.

The Bang Ramat area has plenty of cheap budget eateries as well, very convenient in case you're waiting at the Southern Bus Terminal. Just walk down Phuttamonthon Sai 1 Road and you will find plenty of restaurants, especially at the intersection with Ban Suan Phutthamonthon Road and the intersection with Wat Kaeo-Phutthamonthon Sai 1 Road. They offer traditional Thai cuisine, Thai and Western-style desserts and refreshments. Most delicacies on sale won't cost you more than 25 baht.

Central Plaza Pinklao is a good alternative if you're looking for mid-ranged chain restaurants, such as Yayoi and Sizzlers, or even the usual Western fast food chains. If you're elsewhere in Thonburi, hawker stalls are all over the district, as are 7-Eleven convenience stores.

- Ruam Tai, 375/4 Phran Nok Rd (From Wang Lang (Siriraj) pier, walk through Phran Nok Road, cross Arun-Amarin Road and keep on walking till the intersection with Soi Watthana), +66-2-411-0842. 6AM-8PM daily. This is a typical street restaurant that is good for trying some Southern Thai cooking. You might want to consider the gaeng som, a sour and thick vegetable soup. Diagonally across is Dao Tai, another Southern Thai restaurant. Both of these restaurants only have Thai signs and menus, so you might want to use a phrasebook. 50 baht.

- Supatra River House, 266 Soi Wat Rakhang (there is a free ferry service directly from Maharaj pier in Rattanakosin), +66-2-411-0305, [7]. 11:30 AM-2:30PM, 6PM-10:30PM daily. This luxury restaurant is in the traditional Thai residence of Khunying Supatra Singholaga, a successful businesswoman who started the express boat service in Bangkok and a leading figure in women rights. There is a small museum dedicated to her art collection inside the building. On the menu are Thai and seafood dishes, so you might want to try the fried river prawn with tamarind sauce. There is a great view of the Chao Phraya River, especially at night when the Grand Palace is beautifully lit. Thai dance shows are given on Saturday nights at 8:30PM. Make a reservation beforehand. 1000-2000 baht.

- Yok Yor Marina and Restaurant, 885 Somdet Chao Phraya Soi 17 (opposite Marine Department pier), +66-2-863-0565(-6), [8]. 11AM-midnight daily. You can sit at the open air terrace along the Chao Phraya river or inside with air-conditioning and live music. On the menu is seafood, including oysters, fish and shellfish. Most of the visitors are local Thais, at it is at the Thonburi bank, but more and more foreigners seem to get to know it. The only downer is the karaoke machine and loud TV, sometimes used by locals ruining the atmosphere. 400 baht.

- Zoom4 Zoom5, 1F, Wang Lang Rd (at Wang Lang (Siriraj) pier), +66-2-226-1745. 4PM-10PM daily. This cheap restaurant is highly recommended for its cheap menus and great view over the Chao Phraya river. When it is dark, Bangkok's highlights along the river are well-lit, such as the Grand Palace, Wat Arun and Wat Kalayanamit. It is self-service, so you must walk to the counter yourself and order. After it, you should also get the glasses yourself and fill them up with ice cubes (if you want). The menu is in English, make sure to try the fried rice with maggie sauce and fried chicken (or fish) or the fried rice with thai chili paste and fried chicken. If you have a big appetite, also order the fried minced shrimp cakes. It's good. 40-70 baht.

Drink
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Do not expect any nightlife in Thonburi — for that, all other districts of Bangkok do a better job. But while roaming through, you might be up for a cup of coffee, Thai tea or some iced chocolate. Central Plaza Pinklao is an obvious choice, as the chain stores Coffee World, Mezzo and Starbucks can be found there. Wang Lang pier has the Black Canyon Coffee chain store and some smaller stand-alone coffee houses.

- The Corner CoffeeShop & Internet, 203 Phran Nok Rd (At the corner of Phran Nok Rd and Arun-Amarin Rd), +66-2-411-2071. 8AM-7PM daily. Surf the web from one of the three terminals. It is also a decent place for a cup of coffee or iced chocolate — especially nice with some cream! A big downside is the noisy speedway outside ruining the atmosphere. 15 baht/hour.

Sleep
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- Ibrik Resort by the River, 256 Soi Wat Rakang (next to Patravadi Theatre), +66-2-848-9220, [9]. A luxury boutique resort with only three private double rooms. Each room is beautifully decorated in a chic style with modern white walls and wooden floors. Two of the rooms offer a view over the Chao Phraya river. It is a good way to escape the chaos of the city, yet it is only a 15-minute ferry ride to the Grand Palace. Breakfast included. 4000 baht.

- Marriott Resort and Spa, 257 Charoennakorn Rd (near Krung Thep Bridge), +66-2-476-0022, [10]. The Mariott is one of the best hotels in Bangkok. Its off-central location is actually a downer, but it does bring a relaxed ambiance that makes it feel like a resort hotel. Also, there are shuttle boats to BTS Saphan Taksin station, so you still get to downtown relatively quickly. Rooms are magnificent, there's a tranquil pool and a good breaskfast. 6000-11,000 baht.

- Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd (at the other side of the river from River City shopping mall), +66-2-442-2000, [11]. Obviously a very luxury hotel at the Chao Phraya river, offering a working desk, living room, high-speed internet, two LCD televisions, jacuzzi, rain shower and pool. There's a shuttle boat to River City pier and BTS Saphan Taksin station. 5000-10,000 baht.

- Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd (at the other side of the river from Oriental Hotel), +66-2-861-2888, [12]. Just across the river from the Oriental hotel, this is a worthy competitor for being one of the world's best hotels. Prices are a little more sensible than the Oriental though, but still usually above US$200. There's a free shuttle service to BTS Saphan Taksin station and River City pier. 13,000-120,000 baht.

- River Side Bangkok, 195 Ratchawithi Rd (slightly south of Krung Thon Bridge), +66-2-883-1588(-20), [13]. This two-star hotel has 262 "superior" and "deluxe" rooms. Rooms are fully equipped with modern facilities and some include a room-service breakfast. Many of the rooms have a nice view over the Chao Phraya river. 800-2500 baht.

- The Royal City Hotel, 800 Borommaratchachonnani Rd (about 500 meters further down the road from Central Plaza Pinklao), +66-2-435-8888, [14]. This is a decent hotel near Central Plaza Pinklao. Rooms are spacious, comfortable and clean, but also quite old, dark and uninspiring. Facilities are plentiful, including a pool, fitness and massage. The staff is really nice and helpful. There is not that much to do in the area though, except for the nearby 7-Eleven. 2200-2600 baht.

- The Royal River Hotel, 219 Charan Sanitwong, 66/1 Charan Sanitwong Rd (slightly north of Krung Thon Bridge), +66-2-422-9222, [15]. This is a good hotel near the Krung Thon Bridge. Rooms are large, comfortable and clean. The deluxe rooms of this hotel have a big balcony with a nice view over the river. It is relaxed to splash into the pool after a hot day of temple tramping. 2200-2700 baht.

Contact
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Finding a place to go online is not an easy task in Thonburi. It is mostly a residential neighborhood and most Thais have an internet connection at home. You might want to look around Central Plaza Pinklao shopping center for an Internet cafe, or ask around with the locals. You can go to The Corner CoffeShop & Internet in case you're in the Wang Lang area (see Drink).

Cope
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Many locals commute from the Wang Lang area, so there are plenty of hairdressers, laundromats, pharmacies, copy shops and other daily services here. There are also plenty of hospitals in Thonburi:

- Siriraj Hospital (คณะแพทยศาสตร์ศิริราชพยาบาล), 2 Phran Nok Rd (Wang Lang (Siriraj) pier, then walk along Phran Nok Road and take a right into the complex), +66-2-419-7000, [16]. This is Thailand's oldest hospital, founded by King Rama V in 1888, two years after a cholera outbreak in Thailand. Currently it is a huge complex that takes up a large swathe of land at the banks of the Chao Phraya. It is part of the Faculty of Medicine of Mahidol University. With more than one million patient visits a year, it is one of the most congested public hospitals of Bangkok. Foreigners can probably better go a private hospital, such as Thonburi Hospital.

- Thonburi Hospital, 34/1 Itsaraphap Soi 44 (500 meters south of the Phran Nok Road and Itsaraphap Road intersection), +66-2-412-0020, [17]. This is a private hospital that can also be visited for smaller sicknesses, such as food poisoning or respiratory infections. When you enter the hospital, you need to register yourself at the counter for a Thonburi Hospital card. The hospital looks clean and professional, but the English level of the doctors is not to write home about.

- Phyathai 3 Hospital, 207/26 Phetkasem Rd (about 1 kilometer west of the Charan Sanitwong Road and Phetkasem Road intersection), +66-2-467-1111, [18]. This is the Thonburi branch of the Phyathai hospitals. It is a private hospital far on the outskirts of Bangkok. Multiple languages are spoken.

Get out
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Take the train from Thonburi's Wongwian Yai Station to the fishing village of Maha Chai. Trains leave hourly and the trip takes about one hour. The train ride is an attraction in itself, with plenty of orchards, vegetable plantations, and coconut groves to see. Maha Chai is a great destination for fresh seafood. If you wish, you can even continue your trip to Samut Songkhram from there.

Drive 15 kilometers west along Phetkasem Road for the Rose Garden in Nakhon Pathom. Get away from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok and experience the Thai rural way of life with beautiful gardens and orchards. It is a retreat into a peaceful environment, except at 2PM when the tour buses and coaches kick in for the daily Thai Village Cultural Show (worth it though).

District Pratunam Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By public transit

Skytrain

Airport Rail Link

By boat

By bus

On foot

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
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The southern boundary of Pratunam is marked by the Saen Saep Canal. This canal was dug during the reign of King Rama III in the mid-nineteenth century to connect the Chao Phraya River with the Bang Pakong River in the east. When Saen Saep was connected with Maha Nak Canal and Krung Kasem Canal, a gate was required to control the water level between them. Pratunam literally means "water gate", which is where the district got its name from. It was not developed until the 1960s when rice fields dominated the landscape as far as the eye could see. Around that time, a fresh produce market was set up near the Indra Hotel at Ratchaprarop Road. The following decades more markets set up here, and the area became known as a local marketplace.

Now Pratunam is often referred to as "northern downtown", a title it rightly deserved with the construction of Baiyoke Tower II. Just taking the lift up the tower is an experience not to be missed. More than 300 meters high and counting 88 stories, it is Thailand's tallest building — for now at least, as a taller residential tower is already in construction in Jomtien. It is a distinctive feature of Bangkok's skyline and represents the rising economy of both Pratunam and Thailand as a whole. Surrounding it are plenty of other residential towers and hotels trying to make a buck out of its central location.

But the street markets have never disappeared. Fresh produce has made way for fashion wear, textiles and accessories, but they are still sold at strictly local prices. Endless small alleyways are packed with (mostly) women browsing the cheapest of fashion. There are literally hundreds of fashion stores, and most of them actually sell in wholesale — but you're allowed to partake. There is a wide array of goods on offer, and all goes for a bargain, especially if you buy in bulk. The lack of air-conditioning and large masses of people make this area feel somewhat unappealing. But you can always sneak out to one of the surrounding shopping malls for a break. Platinum Fashion Mall has more clothes and accessories, while Pantip Plaza offers computer gear, gadgets and an infamous collection of counterfeit software.

At its northern boundary lies Victory Monument, a large military monument erected in 1941 to commemorate a Thai victory against France and the resulting annexation of Cambodian and Lao territories. While Thailand had to return these territories in 1945, the monument still stands and now functions as a major traffic hub. From here, small white minibuses depart to many destinations in Thailand, and they are noticeably faster than the public BKS buses (but also much more dangerous). Due to its proximity to the Skytrain, there is lots of commercial activity going on as the area became a popular residential neighborhood for locals and expats working in downtown.

Get in
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By public transit
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Skytrain
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Centrally located, Pratunam is well-covered by the Sukhumvit Line of the BTS Skytrain. From Ratchathewi BTS station in the south of Pratunam, it is only a 15 minutes walk to the center of the action (the intersection of Phetchaburi Road and Ratchaprarop Road). Phaya Thai covers the central area of the district, while Victory Monument is located in the north. At Phaya Thai BTS station, you can switch onto the ARL, but as the systems are not integrated, you will have to buy a new ticket.

Airport Rail Link
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After many years of delays, the Airport Rail Link finally opened in August 2010. From Suvarnabhumi Airport, the Express Line skips all stations and brings you directly to Makkasan. This ride takes about 15 minutes and costs 150 baht. Trains run every 30 minutes from 6AM till midnight. From Makkasan, you can continue your way by metro at Phetchaburi MRT station.

If you want to reach Ratchaprarop or Phaya Thai stations, that are more centrally located in Pratunam, you will need to take the City Line. Reaching Phaya Thai from Suvarnabhumi Airport takes about 30 minutes and sets you back 40 baht. At Phaya Thai, you can transfer onto the Skytrain and continue your way.

Besides just using it as an airport link, it is also a fine train just to get around. Ratchaprarop is the closest station to Pratunam and the Baiyoke Tower II. As you leave that station, make sure you cross the ground level railway line (which is on the same side as you come in from the airport) and keep walking in that direction. There is a sign saying "Baiyoke Hotels" nearby. Pratunam is some 500 meters on the right hand side. You walk under an overhead walkway as you come close to the area.

By boat
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If you're staying at Khao San Road, the Saen Saep Express Boat is your best bet to get to Pratunam. It is only a short walk to Panfa Leelard pier, near the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin, where you can get on the boat. Just step on the next boat and wait for it to have enough passengers on board. Stay put, as this will be a rough ride! Pratunam pier is actually the interchange pier of the network and right in the middle of the action. It is easy to know when you have arrived, as Pratunam pier last stop of the Golden Mount Line, so everyone has to disembark. You can also get off one stop earlier, at Sapan Hua Chang, for Ratchathewi intersection and the BTS station of the same name. A single trip takes about 25 minutes and costs 9 or 11 baht.

By bus
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Pratunam is one of the best-connected districts, so bus travel in general is unnecessary. An exception to this rule is the Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin. Bus 60 leaves from the eastern side of Sanam Luang (Ratchadamnoen Nai Road), passes Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road) and then heads off to Lan Luang Road and Phetchaburi Road. You can get off anywhere you want along Phetchaburi Road, as it covers most of the district. After Phetchaburi Road, it goes northeast along Ramkhamhaeng Road.

On foot
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You wouldn't expect it, but Pratunam is easily reachable on foot. It is only a 500 meters walk north from Ratchaprasong intersection (near Siam Square). You will walk along many luxurious malls and hotels, knowing the goods you will buy will be much more competitively priced.

See
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- Baiyoke Tower II Observatory and Revolving Roofdeck, 77-84F, Baiyoke Tower II, 222 Ratchaprarop Rd (ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-656-3000, [1]. M-F 10:30AM-11PM, Sa-Su 9:30AM-11PM. Currently the tallest tower in Thailand (though not for long as a taller building is in the works in Pattaya that is scheduled for completion in 2012), the 304-meter-tall Baiyoke Tower II mainly has a residential purpose. There's an observatory behind a huge window at the 77th floor and a revolving roofdeck outside at the 84th floor. The revolving roofdeck is practical for viewing different parts of the city, but not so handy if you're trying to make some quality pictures of the city's skyline. It is best to come here right before dusk and watch the sun go down from the tower. Afterwards, visitors can go to the "Rooftop Bar" at the 83rd floor (see Drink). 200 baht, includes one (alcoholic) drink and popcorn at the Rooftop Bar.

- Bangkok Dolls Museum (บ้านบางกอกดอลส์และตุ๊กตานานาชาติ), 85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng) (off Ratchaprarop), +66-2-245-3008. M-Sa 8 AM-PM, Su closed. This museum was established by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol in 1956 after completing a course on doll making at the Osawa Doll School in Tokyo. Her intention with this project was to establish a workshop where hand-made dolls could be created using local materials, and to establish a museum that would promote the Thai doll industry. The museum's dolls are internationally recognized, winning the first prize at the International Folklore Dolls Competition in Poland in 1978. A part of the workshop is devoted to a private collection of about 400 dolls from around the world. These can be grouped in several categories, including Khon dolls, hill tribe dolls, Thai rural dolls and Khon mask miniatures. Free.

- Phaya Thai Palace (วังพญาไท Wang Phaya Thai), 315 Ratchawithi Rd (BTS Victory Monument, then walk 300 meters west along Ratchawithi Road), +66-2-354-7660(-93698 on Saturdays, -93646 on weekdays). Sa 9:30AM and 1:30PM, M-F on appointment only. The Phaya Thai Palace has been built by King Rama VI, who lived here from 1919 for he last years of his reign. After his death, the palace turned into one of the most luxurious hotels in Southeast Asia, a radio station and a military hospital. The palace is worth seeing, as there is a lot to take in. The most important building, the Phiman Chakri Hall, is made in a beautiful Art Nouveau style with silk wallpapers and ornate murals. Every Saturday, volunteers give two free guided tours through the palace that take about two hours; they start at 9:30AM and 1:30PM. Technically it is also possible to visit the palace on weekdays, but you must call to make an appointment and pay 500 baht. Free.

- Suan Pakkad Palace (วังสวนผักกาด), 352-354 Si Ayutthaya Rd (BTS Phaya Thai), +66-2-246-1775(-6), [2]. 9AM-4PM daily. This complex of five Thai-style houses was once the residence of one of Thailand's leading art collectors, Prince Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga. It houses an extensive collection of Asian art and antiques, including items from the prehistoric Ban Chiang civilization, and an impressive collection of sea-shells. The Khon Museum, about the traditional Thai masked dance, and the Traditional Thai Music Museum have also been established here. 100 baht.

- Thai Labour Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์แรงงานไทย), Nikhom Makkasan Rd, +66-2-251-3173. W-Su, hols. 10AM-4:30PM, M-Tu closed. This museum is located at the former office of the labour union of the State Railway of Thailand. It exhibits the historical background of 300 years Thai labour movement. Modern media are used to present the material, such as television, slides and computers. There is also a library with books and research reports on labour. You must call in advance if you plan on visiting with a group. Free.

- Victory Monument (อนุสาวรีย์ชัยสมรภูมิ anutsawarii chaisamorraphuum), (at the intersection of Phahonyothin Road, Phaya Thai Road and Ratchawithi Road). This monument was constructed in 1941 by military dictator Plaek Pibulsongkhram to commemorate the 59 Thais who lost their lives in the short and inconclusive French Indochina War. However, Pibulsongkhram was kicked out in 1944 and the patch of land gained by Thailand was handed back to Laos and Cambodia in 1945, making the "victory" a little hollow. These days this spiky Bangkok landmark is better known as Bangkok's largest local bus hub. If traveling north by Skytrain, you'll be treated to a 180-degree curving panorama of the monument, and this is the best view you can get as actually reaching the base of the monument would require passing through a triple-laned traffic circle maelstrom of buses. The public restrooms at the major bus stop directly across from the monument costs 2 baht per entry. Free.

Do
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- Calypso Cabaret, Asia Hotel Bldg, 296 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Ratchathewi), +66-2-653-3960(-2), [3]. 8:15PM and 9:45PM. The famous ladyboy show of the Calypso Cabaret perform in two sessions every evening. The show consists of singing, dancing and remarkable costumes. At least make a reservation at their website three days before you want to attend the show. 1200 baht.

Buy
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Most visitors head out to the Chatuchak Weekend Market for cheap deals, but they miss out on Pratunam's daily sales. Pratunam is an excellent shopping area that can easily be reached on foot from Ratchaprasong. Most of the products available are on wholesale, so this is the place to go for some cheap bargains. Haggling is more important here than in other shopping malls, and things get considerably cheaper if you buy in bulk. Chatuchak has been serving a more diverse audience over the years, but Pratunam has kept a strict no frills approach. Everything looks cheap and is cheap, even cheaper than at Chatuchak. Your best bet is the Pratunam Market, or if that's too unappealing, the new Pratunam Fashion Mall. Those interested in cheap gadgets and computer gear should head for Pantip Plaza.

- Pantip Plaza, 604/3 Phetchaburi Rd (beside Platinum Fashion Mall), +66-2-250-1555, [4]. 10AM-8PM daily. A six-floor shopping mall devoted to computer gear, famous for its pirated media. The bootleg trade is much more low-key than it used to be, but software and DVDs are still widely available. It is also a good place for digital cameras, gadgets, printers, MP3-players, etc. Test out whatever you are buying as there are lots of flaky goods here. If you want to be safe, buy at the official brand stores, though prices are similar as in Western countries (or even higher!). And keep in mind that warranty is only valid within Thailand.

- Platinum Fashion Mall, 222 Phetchaburi Rd (across the street from Pratunam Market), +66-2-121-8000, [5]. 10AM-8PM daily. A great place for fashion shopping, especially since it is air-conditioned. Many of the 1300 shops here are also at the Chatuchak Market on weekends. It is particularly interesting for women as the shops mostly sell clothes, handbags, shoes, accessories, gifts and make-up. A lot of shops (but not all) are geared towards export and wholesale.

- Pratunam Center (Pratunam Complex), Phetchaburi Rd (at the northeast corner of the Phetchaburi Road and Ratchaprarop Road intersection). 10:30AM-9PM daily. The shiny new Pratunam center has four floors of textile and jewelry for retail and wholesale. The first two floors are taken up by OTOP (one tambon, one product) that sells handicrafts from every township of Thailand. For now, a large part of the mall is unoccupied.

- Pratunam Market (ประตูน้ำ, also known as Pratunam Wholesale Garment District), Phetchaburi Rd (at the northwest corner of the Phetchaburi Road and Ratchaprarop Road intersection). 11AM-6PM daily. An amazing place to shop for clothes. Although it is geared towards exporters, anyone can shop here. Everything is cheap, but even cheaper if you buy in bulk. Finding it is tricky, it is more a section of alleys selling clothes than a real market area. Start at the northwest corner of Phetchaburi Road and Ratchaprarop Road. Then walk west along Phetchaburi Road. Wwhen you will see some clothing stores, just go inside and start wandering. Instead of exiting the way you came in, exit to the left and you should be in one of the alleys. You can also start at Baiyoke Tower II and wander south and east.

Eat
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Victory Monument has the usual collection of Western and Thai fast-food favorites, and it has a busy street market as well, especially in the evenings.

- Once Upon A Time, 32 Phetchaburi Soi 17 (in the alley opposite Pantip Plaza), +66-2-252-8629. In a dubious-looking alley opposite Pantip Plaza, but worth hunting down despite the unlikely location. The restaurant is in an old Thai teak house with a garden, filled with photos of classical Thai film stars, and serves very good Thai food. Check out the special rooms upstairs on your way to the bathroom. 250 baht.

- Pickle Factory, 55 Ratchawithi Soi 2 (a 10-15 minutes tuk-tuk ride from Victory Monument), +66-2-246-3036. 5:30PM-11:30PM daily. Deep down a small soi, this hip but relaxed lounge-cum-restaurant is neither factory nor has any pickles on their menu. Instead, it's a modern residential house, complete with swimming pool, offering competent pizzas, pastas and Thai favorites. 100-300 baht.

- Platinum Fashion Mall Food Court, 6F, Platinum Fashion Mall, 222 Phetchaburi Rd, +66-2-121-8000. 10AM-8PM daily. There's a huge and very good food court at the sixth floor of the shopping mall. It can get very busy, especially around noon and dinnertime. 70 baht.

Drink
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- Bossy Club, Soi Si Ayutthaya (ARL Ratchaprarop; in a small soi between Phyathai 1 Hospital and Thep Nimit Technical School). 1AM-6AM daily. A typical "after-hour" nightclub that is almost a cliché of Bangkok's naughty nightlife. Crowd is mixed with many foreign tourists, Thai locals and so-called "freelancers". It all feels very dark and sleazy, quite similar to the nearby Spicy Club (in the Siam Square area). There's a well-lit dancing stage with poles in the middle and music is very loud. Most taxi drivers are very eager to bring you here as they get a hefty commission from the club's owners (you might even get the ride for free). Entry 300 baht including 1 drink.

- Rooftop Bar, 83F, Baiyoke Tower II, 222 Ratchaprarop Rd (ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-656-3000, [6]. 8PM-1AM daily. You might not expect it, but Baiyoke Tower II's Rooftop Bar actually has quite a romantic atmosphere going on. It can best be recommended for couples or those in-love. They can sit beside a huge window that gives a good view over the city. Professional bands and singers perform nightly. Get there around dusk as the seats quickly fill up when it's dark. 200 baht, includes one (alcoholic) drink and popcorn.

- Saxophone Pub, 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Victory Monument), +66-2-246-5472, [7]. 6PM-1:30AM daily. One of the best pubs to catch live playing jazz and blues bands. The interior is beautifully decorated with old guitars and cymbals. Even while its crowded, the atmosphere is cozy. It is very much focused on experiencing the music, as the public sits and stands in a semicircle around the band. Don't come here for the food, as it is not great and overpriced. Beers and cocktails (the latter served in a saxophone glass) are also more expensive than elsewhere in Bangkok.

- The Rock Pub, Hollywood Street Bldg, 93/26-28 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Ratchathewi; opposite Asia Hotel), +66-2-251-9980, [8]. 7PM-2AM daily. This is the home of rock and metal in Bangkok. The owner is a rock musician himself and has been dedicated to make this the place to be for those interested in the genre. Two bands play every night, the first one starts playing at 9:30PM and the second one at 11:45PM. Expect a lot of Metallica and Nirvana covers.

Sleep
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While the shopping is one of the cheapest in Bangkok, accommodation tends to be on the splurge side. This is not surprising as real estate levels have been skyrocketing in recent years (it's not a coincidence that the tallest building of Bangkok can be found here).

- Amari Watergate, 847 Phetchaburi Rd (Pratunam pier), +66-2-653-9000, [9]. Modern four-star hotel with all the facilities you'd expect, including a few restaurants good enough to draw non-guests (especially the American-style Henry J. Beans bar/restaurant downstairs; try the chicken fajitas!). A stone's throw from Pratunam, across the Saen Saeb canal from Ratchaprasong. 3000-8000 baht.

- Baiyoke Sky Hotel, 76-78F, Baiyoke Tower II, 222 Ratchaprarop Rd (ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-656-3000, [10]. Ever wanted to spend the night in the tallest hotel of Southeast Asia? This is your chance. This luxury hotel has 673 guest rooms, all with a phenomenal view over the city. It has an extensive breakfast with more than 100 dishes to choose from! Rooms are spacious and the staff is very helpful. The only downer is the long waiting times to get into the lift. 2000-3400 baht.

- Century Park Hotel, 9 Ratchaprarop Rd (a five to ten minutes walk from BTS Victory Monument), +66-2-246-7800, [11]. Good quality four-star hotel with spacious rooms. The fitness and pool areas are nice, and there's a good view of the city if you're sleeping at the higher floors. Breakfasts are particularly nice with a large selection of Western and Asian cuisine. 2500-8000 baht.

- Citin Pratunam, 88/19 Ratchaprarop Rd (ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-120-8999, [12]. Smack in the heart of Pratunam, close to the Baiyoke Tower II. The rooms are small, but cozy and modern, and feature 32 inch LCD TVs and free WiFi. They also have a great spa and a cafe serving vegetarian-only dishes. There's a free tuk-tuk shuttle service to nearby shops and BTS stations. 1500-3200 baht.

- PJ Watergate Hotel, 467 Soi Watthana Sin (ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-254-3314. The PJ Watergate is a decent hotel in the Ratchaprarop area. Rooms feature air-conditioning and a TV, and there's an internet cafe, restaurant and bar in the main area. Most staff at least speak some English, but the Manager is fluent. 1200-2000 baht.

- Pullman Bangkok King Power, 8/2 Rangnam Rd (BTS Victory Monument), +66-2-680-9999, [13]. Opened in 2007, this modern luxury hotel may be better value than other similarly priced hotels. It is a bit north of the city core, just south of Victory Monument. An impressive lobby and more-than-ample smiling staff will greet you on arrival. The rooms reflect the five-star status of the hotel, the executive levels offering many extras including drinks and canapes in the evening. Next door is the King Power Duty Free complex, which has a first floor boutique beer garden, plus the usual large range of duty free goods. 3000-5600 baht.

Contact
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Jessie's Minimart, inside the Miami Villa complex at Phetchaburi Soi 43/1, is an internet cafe that is open 24 hours and has a WiFi hotspot available. It is close to the Phetchaburi MRT station. There's a free WiFi signal at the Amari Watergate Hotel, so you might want to have a drink at one of their cafes while surfing the net.

Get out
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Another neighborhood for cheap deals, and just a 15-minutes BTS ride north, is the Chatuchak Weekend Market in Phahonyothin. As the name implies, it is only opened in weekends. Many of the shops there actually operate in Pratunam during weekdays.

District Phahonyothin Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By public transit

Skytrain

Metro

By bus

By taxi

By train

• See

Architecture

Museums

Parks

• Do

• Buy

Chatuchak Weekend Market

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

• Cope

• Get out

Understand
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Originally, Phahonyothin Road was named Prachathipatai Road (ถนนประชาธิปไตย) and it was just 22 kilometers, stretching from Victory Monument to Don Muang Airport. Field Marshal Plaek Phibunsonhkhram extended the road north all the way north to Sing Buri, and renamed it Phahonyothin Road in honor of General Phraya Pholphayuhasena, the second Prime Minister of Thailand (commonly known as Phot Phahonyothin). Later it was extended even further, all the way to the Burmese border for a length of 1005 kilometers! This article doesn't stretch that long, as it only covers that part of Phahonyothin Road that is actually within the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration. But even then, Phahonyothin is a vast district by any means, stretching 30 kilometers from north to south.

Until 2006, nearly all visitors to Thailand landed here at Don Muang Airport. Don Muang has been an important airline hub, and for a long time held the title of second busiest airport in Asia by passenger volume. The first commercial flights in Don Muang Airport started in 1924; since then, the airport has been a commercial motor for the whole district, attracting many hotels and businesses. Because of this commercial activity, Bangkok mostly expanded northwards and Phahonyothin turned into one of the most developed suburbs of Bangkok. Many of Bangkok's residents live here and commute to downtown every day. Getting from the fringes to the southern part of Phahonyothin might take two hours or more, depending on traffic.

While the northern part is barely attended by foreign visitors, the southern part has some major highlights. Shopping is the main activity here; a visitor hasn't been to Bangkok without visiting the huge Chatuchak Weekend Market, the largest market in Southeast Asia with over 8000 stalls. And while still off the beaten track to foreigners, Soi Ari turned into a hip artist-y neighborhood with plenty of cheap dining options.

With the opening of Suvarnabhumi Airport in 2006, Don Muang Airport closed down completely for one year. After a big renovation, it was reopened in 2007 for non-connecting domestic flights, but still few airlines make use of it. The economic engine that Don Muang used to be suddenly stopped working. In a snap, five-star hotels turned into two-star hotels and airport-related businesses moved out of the far north. Luckily, 30 kilometers south, commercial activity is still alive and kicking.

Get in
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Phahonyothin is a major arterial road, and as many Bangkokians that live here work in downtown, there are plenty of ways to get in.

By public transit
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Skytrain
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The Skytrain is an excellent way to get in and around Phahonyothin. The BTS Sukhumvit Line runs over Phahonyothin Road with the most important areas of the district covered. The line comes directly from Siam Square and Sukhumvit. If you're coming from Silom, you must transfer from the Silom Line onto the Sukhumvit Line at Siam BTS station.

The line passes Sanam Pao, Ari and Saphan Khwai, before reaching its final destination at Mo Chit, which is nearby the Chatuchak Weekend Market and the Northern Bus Terminal. At Mo Chit, the Skytrain intersects with MRT metro system Chatuchak Park, so you can easily continue your way from there to Ratchadaphisek.

Metro
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The metro only covers a small part of Phahonyothin, but it actually gets higher up than the Skytrain. If you need to go to the far north, take the metro to Phahon Yothin MRT station and then continue your way by metered taxi or bus. The metro is also a more convenient way of getting to the Chatuchak Weekend Market. MRT station Kamphaeng Phet drops you right in front of the main entrance of Chatuchak, arguably the most interesting part of the market. Chatuchak Park MRT station also gets you there, but you still have to walk to the eastern entrance. The metro terminates at Bang Sue, an important train station that can be used if you're taking the train in northern or northeastern direction.

By bus
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Phahonyothin stretches as far north as 30 kilometers, and the BTS and MRT systems don't even reach close to it. So you'll have to travel as the locals do — by bus. Going by taxi is also possible, but that costs a lot more. Keep in mind that bus travel in Phahonyothin is very troublesome, though. Getting from north to south can take you two hours or more, depending on traffic. The most important line is ordinary and air-conditioned bus 59, which runs 24 hours a day. It starts at Sanam Luang in Rattanakosin and passes by Ratchdamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road) and Panfa Leelard pier, the western terminus of the Saen Saep Express Boat. It then continues through Lan Luang Road, Phetchaburi Road, and heads north along Phaya Thai Road, passing Victory Monument. From there, it goes all the way north along Phahonyothin Road passing the Chatuchak Weekend Market, Don Muang Airport and finally the Thammasat University campus in Rangsit.

By taxi
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Going by metered taxi is the most comfortable (and expensive) way to get in and around the district. It can be used for both short and long distances. Always insist on the meter. If the driver refuses, get out and get another taxi, as there is always another one waiting for you. A ride from Sukhumvit or Silom to Chatuchak Weekend Market shouldn't cost you more than 100 baht. If you're heading up north to Don Muang Airport, expect a price in the 200-300 baht range, depending on traffic.

By train
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Bang Sue Train Station is a worthy alternative for the busy and crowded Hualamphong Train Station, but can only be used if you're heading to the north or northeast of the country. You can reach it using the MRT metro system, of which Bang Sue is the last stop. You can also take the Skytrain to Mo Chit and continue by metered taxi.

See
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Architecture
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- Elephant Building, 369/38 Phahonyothin Soi 26 (MRT Phahon Yothin, then continue by taxi), +66-2-937-3300. The Elephant Building is one of the quirkiest buildings of the world, and has even won awards for being one of the ugliest. This 32-floor high-rise is composed of three towers that are connected to each other on the upper floors. The shape clearly resembles a grey elephant, Thailand's national animal. It even has eyes, ears and tusks, so nothing is left to the imagination. The building is used for residential and commercial purposes, so it cannot be entered.

Museums
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- Bangkok Butterfly Garden and Insectarium (อุทยานผีเสื้อและแมลงกรุงเทพฯ), Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd (MRT Chatuchak Park or BTS Mo Chit), +66- 2-272-4359(-60). Tu-Su, hols 8:30AM-4:30 PM. This insect garden is split in four main sections. The first section is an area with touch-screen computers that give an introduction to the garden. The second is a mini-theater where a presentation is given on insects and the ecological system they are a part of. The third section is an exhibition room that shows the breeding of insects and butterfly embryos. And finally, the last section is a large cage that displays more than 500 butterflies of 20 different kinds. The garden simulates the insects' natural habitat with rocks, shady ferns, wild flowers and a waterfall. Free.

- Children's Discovery Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์เด็ก), 810 Kamphaeng Phet 4 Rd (across the road from Chatuchak Weekend Market), +66-2-615-7333(-102). Tu-F 9AM-6PM, Sa-Su 10AM-7PM, M closed. Discovery and interactive museums are the new hype in Bangkok, and this Children's Museum is no exception. The construction was completed in 2001 and completed in time to celebrate the 60th birthday anniversary of HM Queen Sirikit. It is a large complex with eight galleries with 123 exhibits and activities, spread over three buildings and one outdoor space. The goal is to learn children in a fun way about human life, science, culture, society, nature and the environment, and there is an exhibition in honor of HM Queen Sirikit. While mostly catering to Thai families, foreigners can bring their children as well. 50-70 baht.

- Philatelic Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์และห้องสมุดตราไปรษณียากร), 2F, Metropolitan Postal Bureau, Phahonyothin Rd (BTS Saphan Khwai, behind Samsen Nai Post Office), +66-2-271-2439. W–Su 8:30 AM-4:30 PM, M-Tu closed. This museum displays the history of the Thai postal service and the development of Thai stamps throughout history. The first Thai stamps were issued during the reign of King Rama V in the late nineteenth-century. Also on display are stamps from other countries that are a member of the Universal Postal Union. There is a library with books about stamps, and you can buy stamps at the ground floor of the building. Next to the museum is a room that looks and acts like a post office of the past. In front of the building you'll find Thai and foreign postal boxes from various periods. Free.

- The State Railway Hall of Fame (หอเกียรติภูมิรถไฟ), Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd (MRT Chatuchak Park or BTS Mo Chit; it is on the western side of Chatuchak Park), +66-8-1615-5776. Tu-F 6AM-noon, Sa-Su 6AM-2PM, M closed. This is a privately-run railway museum with steam engines, train models and miniature trains on display that show the history of Thai railways since the late nineteenth-century. The museum has been established by Sanpasiri Viryasiri in 1990, and is now managed by his son, Chulsiri Viryasiri. He runs it with full dedication and on purpose the whole project is solely paid for with donations. The future of the museum hangs in the balance, as the State Railway of Thailand is trying to reclaim the land in order to turn it into a public dog park.

Parks
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- Chatuchak Park (สวนจตุจักร), Phahonyothin Rd (MRT Chatuchak Park or BTS Mo Chit), +66-2-272-4575. 5AM-8PM daily. Chatuchak Park is one of the older public parks in Bangkok, located on land that was donated by the State Railway of Thailand in 1975. The construction of the park took five years and was completed in 1980. The park basically is a long strip of green land right beside Phahonyothin Road. It is surrounded by an artificial lake that runs along the park with many bridges crossing it. There are nine pieces of ASEAN sculptures that enhance the character of the park. Free.

- Queen Sirikit Park (สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์), Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd (MRT Kamphaeng Phet or BTS Mo Chit). 5AM-8PM daily. This park was built to commemorate the 60th birthday anniversary of HM Queen Sirikit in 1992. A big pool in the park contains three fountains and a fine collection of both Thai and foreign lotuses. Free.

- Wachirabenchatat Park (สวนวชิรเบญจทัศ, formerly State Railway Public Park, สวนรถไฟ, Suan Rot Fai), Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd (north of Queen Sirikit Park and Chatuchak Park). 5AM-9PM daily. This large park used to be the golf course of the State Railway of Thailand. Bicycle rental, paid parking and eating possibilities are outside the northern entrance of the park. It has a large kids playgrounds in the middle, as well as a kids pool and sports facilities. Free.

Do
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- Major Cineplex Ratchayothin, 234/2 Phahonyothin Rd (MRT Phahon Yothin; at the intersection of Phahonyothin Road and Ratchadaphisek Road), +66-2-421-6606, [1]. M-W 10:30AM-midnight, Th-Su 10AM-midnight. Another branch of the Major Cineplex line of cinemas. The ticket office is on the second floor, the movies play at the fifth and sixth floors. It is a large cinema with all the new Hollywood releases. Thai movies are also showed and are subtitled in English. 150 baht.

Buy
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Chatuchak Weekend Market
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Northern Bangkok's biggest draw is the Chatuchak Weekend Market (จตุจักร, also "Jatujak" or even "JJ"), an incredibly vast, 35-acre indoor and outdoor market that has more than 8000 vendors selling anything and everything under the sun. To put that number in perspective, if you browsed every stall one minute each, non-stop for eight hours on every Saturday and Sunday, it would take you around two months to visit them all! A good rule of thumb is to buy immediately if you spot something interesting, as you will never find that same stall again.

After World War II, the market was established around Sanam Luang in Rattanakosin, but when it got out of hand, it was moved to the north of Bangkok in 1978. Now it has 200,000 visitors a day who together spend around 30 million baht! Chatuchak has a fairly good mix of local residents and foreign tourists. It started out as a market for cheap bargains, but over the years has also become a haven for specialist shops that charge a little more.

Getting there is easy, just go to Mo Chit station by Skytrain or get off at Kamphaeng Phet station by metro (Chatuchak Park MRT station is also an option, but Kamphaeng Phet station immediately drops you off at the southwestern most interesting part of the market). The market is only opened on Saturdays and Sundays, and opens at 9AM, so get there early to beat the crowds and the heat. The market officially closes at 6PM, but slowly becomes less interesting after 4PM. Keep an eye on your belongings here as pickpockets work in the crowds, and avoid Chatuchak on rainy days as the roofs and drains here aren't quite up to a tropical downpour.

You can imagine that orientation here is a world of it its own; the only recognizable landmark is the Clock Tower in the middle of the complex, so you might want to meet there in case you get lost. In theory, the market is divided into 26 numbered sections depending on types of goods sold, but in practice you'll quickly get lost in its maze of 69 sois and dozens of other roads. For an extra detailed map of Chatuchak you can buy Nancy Chandler's Map of Bangkok at Teak House Art in section 2 to help you better navigate around the area.

Just describing what's on sale could fill a whole page. Giving an extensive description of all sections is nearly impossible, but a rough grouping into 10 categories can be made. These groupings should only be used as a rough guideline, as the goods sold overlap between sections and some sections are hard to even characterize at all; especially section 2 is a mixed bag with products as diverse as home decoration, used clothes, furniture, handicrafts and plants. The following grouping can be made:

- Antiques (section 26)

- Arts (section 7)

- Books (section 1 and 27)

- Ceramics (section 17 and 19)

- Clothes (section 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21 and 23)

- Handicrafts (section 8, 22, 24 and 25)

- Home decoration (section 2)

- Pets (section 9, 11, 13 and 15)

- Plants (section 3 and 4)

- Used clothes (sections 5 and 6)

The pets section has a cute appearance with lots of puppies and bunnies on sale, but is particularly controversial, as many of these shops are a front for the trade of protected (and even endangered) animals under the counter. Most of these animals are smuggled in from other countries in the region, and Chatuchak serves as a hub for private animal collectors and others interested in exotic hornbills, snakes, turtles or anything else you could think of. These practices are not as visible as they used to be, following a number of crackdowns. A single crackdown in 2003 found 5000 illegal exotic animals on sale at the market, though often only the deal is negotiated here with the handover done elsewhere. If you don't want to see crocodiles on sale in small cages or see live cockfights take place, you might want to skip the pets section.

Chatuchak is especially a good place for buying all kinds of traditional Thai handicrafts, silk and antiques. A lot of these stores are congregated in the southwestern part with prices are much lower than in Silom. Haggling is expected for every small item you buy, but generally you won't get more than 150 baht off the price. Antiques shopping is fun, but pretty much all on sale are fakes, as genuine antiques require a permit to be taken out of the country.

The area around section 27 is good for daily necessities. There are toilets, a smoking area, several ATMs and you can change money there. Food stalls are abound, they are lined up along the western, southern and eastern side of the main road. Expect the usual Thai dishes such as pad thai and Isaan food.

Meanwhile, other entrepreneurs have tried to cash in on the hype and opened their own markets surrounding the Chatuchak Weekend Market:

- Chatuchak Plaza. The two big downsides of the Chatuchak Weekend Market is that the heat is unbearable at times and that it's only opened in weekends. Chatuchak Plaza seeks to combat these complaints: it gives a similar experience as the Chatuchak Weekend Market, but is open every day of the week and is fully air-conditioned. It does a fairly good job, but when walking here you start to miss the chaos of the real thing.

- JJ Day & Night, Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd (opposite Kamphaeng Phet 2 Road from Chatuchak Weekend Market), +66-2-618-4442. M-Th 10AM-8PM, F-Su 10AM-9PM. A fairly large shopping mall, JJ Day and Night really lacks character. The corridors are fairly small and there's a lot of budget clothes shopping to be done. A large share of the action happens outside.

- JJ Mall, 588 Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd (north of Chatuchak Weekend Market, past the Chatuchak Plaza), +66-2-618-3333, [2]. 10AM-9PM daily. This large air-conditioned shopping mall is well-developed and looks professional. Each floor has different goods on sale: the ground floor has handicrafts, paintings and home decorations; the first floor has clothes, accessories and jewelry; and the second floor has health products and a large food court.

- Or Tor Kor Market (ตลาด อ.ต.ก., also known as Aw Taw Kaw Market or Marketing Organization for Farmers (MOF) Market), Kamphaeng Phet Rd (MRT Kamphaeng Phet, exit 3; or cross Kamphaeng Phet Road from Chatuchak Weekend Market). 6AM-8PM daily. Right next to Chatuchak, far fewer tourists make it to the best place in Bangkok to buy high-quality plants and food produce straight off the farm. Prices are a bit higher than at small neighborhood markets, because Or Tor Kor is cleaner and its products are better quality. There's also a food market that is definitely worth a visit.

Eat
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:

Budget

Under 100 baht

Mid-range

100-500 baht

Splurge

Over 500 baht

Northern Bangkok's hippest place to eat is the area around Phahonyothin Soi 7, better known as Soi Ari (or Aree). More restaurants can be found in the nearby Rama VI Soi 30, which is also known as Soi Ari Samphan. Many musicians and artists migrated into this neighborhood and the bars and restaurants cater to this audience. Just off Ari BTS station, these busy streets are divided into their own sois, with Ari Soi 1 featuring a bustling market packed with food stalls and the trendier/more expensive joints around Soi 2 and 3.

Budget
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There are a variety of street food vendors at Phahonyothin Soi 7 (Soi Ari). Just off the BTS and around the corner on Soi Ari are a multitude of street stalls selling some of Bangkok's best street food, from Chinese-style wonton noodles, Isaan specialities such as som tam, larb, gai yaang, as well as pad thai, Thai deserts and stands that can whip up basically the entire repetoire of Thai cuisine, all for around 20-30 baht per dish.

- Banana Family Park/Coffee Garden, 17/1 Ari Soi 1 (BTS Ari), +66-2-279-7838, [3]. 9AM-7PM daily. The Banana Family Park! Woohoo! It sounds like a theme park for kids, but don't let the name misguide you. It is actually a complex with a cheap food court, gym, yoga classes, language schools, beauty salon and evening seminars on Buddhism. This is one of the best vegetarian-only dining options in Bangkok, and it's unbelievably cheap too. Some of the food is pre-cooked and in bain-maries, some is cooked while you wait. At the previous location at Baan Suan Pai, there was Thai fruit ice cream, made from passionfruit, lemon grass and lotus root; not sure if this is still with Banana Family Park. You can also relax with a hot cup of caffeine at the Coffee Garden that's part of the complex. Best to go at lunch time because dinner is just what's leftover from lunch. 50 baht.

- Crispy Pork and Beef Noodle, Phahonyothin Rd (just north of Soi 5, three minutes from BTS Ari). daily. Two neighboring, simple and locally very popular eateries, recently relocated from inside the Ari sois. They have dedicated lunch customers seven days a week. Mains just under 50 baht, they have very simple but delicious menus, but only in Thai. Pointing will do. 50 baht.

- Deli House, Phahonyothin Soi 7 (just after Ari Bar if you're coming from BTS Ari). You might not expect it in this neighborhood, a bakery with fresh and delicious European-style pastries. They also have other European snacks, such as German sausages. 50-90 baht.

- Jud Leeo (จุดเลี้ยว), 557 P-4 Phahonyothin Soi 19 (around the corner from the British Council and Index; opposite the Rasa Tower), +66-2-937-0197. noon-2AM daily. Exceptional Thai curries and other dishes with a friendly, English speaking staff. Shady trees and a fairly subdued side soi make evening outside dining pleasant. 50-90 baht.

- Khrob Khreung (ครบเครื่อง), 5-7 Ari Samphan Soi 10, +66-2-278-3279. 9AM-3PM daily. Famous for its kuay tiow yam bok rice noodles with fresh vegetables, topped with pork or shrimp (30 baht). Also serves up Thai-Chinese dim sum, muu stek pork satay with peanut sauce, and a wide range of other side dishes. No English sign or menu, but pointing should do the trick. 40-90 baht.

- Pad Thai Aree (ผัดไทย อารีย์), (in a small soi between Phahonyothin Soi 6 and 8), +66-2-270-1654. 10AM-8PM daily. This small, unassuming shophouse, was until recently located on Soi 7 but has now moved to the other side of Phahonyothin due to construction of another new condominium in the area. It is actually owned by a friend of the Royal family (note the picture of the Princess on the wall) and serves up some delectable pad thai (and many variations) at slightly more than street stall prices. 45-95 baht.

- Pathe, 1130/6-7 Phahonyothin Rd (MRT Phahon Yothin; at the corner of Phahonyothin Road, Lat Phrao Road and Viphavadi Rangsit Road), +66-2-938-4995. 10AM-1AM daily. Pathe is the Thai equivalent of a 1950s-era American-style. The atmosphere is great with a classic record player providing the music. There are pictures on the wall of music stars and performers of the 1950-70s. Serves up some tasty food as well. 50-120 baht.

- Som-Tum Bangkok, Ari Soi 3 (BTS Ari), +66-2-619-8659. 11AM-11PM daily. Tucked down a leafy soi further down the street, this place is named after its showpiece som tum (green papaya salad), which goes for 45 baht and up. It features all your other Isaan favorites too for less than 100 baht a dish. Seating indoors and outdoors. 50-70 baht.

- Wake Up Cafe, Phahonyothin Soi 9 (in an unlikely location down a soi near Shinawatra Tower 2). daily. This is a surprising little oasis of greenery (outside) and clean white lines (inside). Mains around 50 baht, a fancy cup of coffee around the same amount. 70 baht.

Mid-range
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- Basilico (until recently known as Arancini), Baan Yosawadi Bldg, 34 Phahonyothin Soi 7 (BTS Ari), +66-2-619-8188. 11:30AM-14:30PM, 6PM-11PM daily. The third branch of this Italian food franchise. It has especially enticing pizzas and a good selection of decently priced wines (glass and bottle) to help you get rid of that leftover Chang taste from the afternoon. Try the Rianata. 300 baht.

- Baan Mae Yui (บ้านแม่ยุ้ย), 53/1 Ari Samphan Soi 1 (a 10-15 minute walk from BTS Ari or a short motorbike/tuk-tuk ride), +66-2-619-9952. 10AM-9PM daily. Tucked away in a quiet, narrow residential soi, this tiny gem has become a neighbourhood favorite. You may have to wait for a seat on weekends! It features a small menu of home-style Thai favorites, including some more old-fashioned dishes that are harder to find these days, and there's a daily specials menu. Dinner menu and Sunday lunch also features some quite good Western dishes, such as steaks, pastas and roasts. The bakery products and home-made ice creams are worth bringing home. 200 baht.

- Baan Puengchom (บ้านพึงชม), 38/1 Phahonyothin Soi 7 (in the depth of the small soi opposite Ari Soi 2 and Ari Soi 3), +66-2-279-4204‎. noon-10PM daily. In a big garden with some rabbits, it is possible to eat inside (with air-conditioning) or outside. It is often full, so if you don't make a reservation, you'll probably be eating outdoors. The surroundings couldn't be better, the food is fine and prices are decent. 150 baht.

- Bale (บาเล่), 67/19 Lat Phrao Soi 35, +66-2-938-1518(-9). 6PM-1AM daily. Just inside the soi, this restaurant is a huge refurbished house and quite popular with young mobile Thai professionals. It features a full band with 8 violinists, wine glass chandelier and several international beers.

- Lao Lao (เหลา เหลา), 1271/6-7 Phahonyothin Rd (between Soi 7 and 9), +66-2-271-4260. Chinese-style seafood restaurant that is always bustling well into the wee hours of night. Not much on atmosphere or service, but the crowds can attest that the food is terrific and the price is right. English menus are available, but as it is a very local restaurant, it may be helpful to go with a Thai friend.

- Pla Dip (ปลาดิบ), 1/1 Rama VI Soi 30 (a 20-minute walk from BTS Ari or a short motorbike/tuk-tuk ride, at the corner of Ari Samphan Soi 7), +66-2-279-8185. 6PM-midnight daily. Surprisingly chic setting and menu, drawing in a constant crowd of Bangkok hipsters and "Indie" music fanatics, this restaurant cum bar features live bands on weekends. It is a happening bar with a creative menu focusing on fresh fish prepared in some creative fusion styles. A bit more of a splurge for this neighborhood, with dishes running far into the triple digits. 300 baht.

- Suan Kularb (สวนกุหลาบ), 162 Rama VI Soi 30 (a 10-15 minute walk from BTS Ari or a short motorbike/tuk-tuk ride), +66-2-617-0425. 11AM-11PM daily. An Ari neighborhood institution, hugely popular with both neighborhood locals and downtown dwellers in the know. Features a surprisingly vast menu of Thai and Chinese dishes, priced at approximately 80-150 baht per dish (though seafood is remarkably more expensive). The staff is not always efficient, and speaks little English, but the menu is translated and has pictures. 80-300 baht.

- T-House, 33 Phahonyothin Soi 5 (BTS Ari; 50 meters down the Soi on the left hand side), +66-2-270-1309. M-F 11AM-2PM, 5PM-10PM, Sa-Su 11AM-10PM. This is a nice Vietnamese restaurant. It shares an inside courtyard with Dragon Palace, the Chinese mid-range restaurant next-door. There are parking facilities, it is clean and has a good service. Try the Saigon crab soup. 250 baht.

Drink
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Several bars aimed at young Thai socializers have sprung up at the Or Tor Kor farmer's market area, near Chatuchak. A stone's throw from the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station (exit 1) are at least 20 small pubs, bars and restaurants that operate every day of the week.

- Ari Bar (Aree Babar), 36/6 Phahonyothin Soi 7 (BTS Ari), +66-2-279-7560. This is a simple bar that caters to those living in the area. It is a bit quirky with eclectic music and drinks. The sign actually says "Aaari babar", so you know where to get in.

- Cafe Dee Dee, Ari Samphan Soi 2 (at the corner of Soi Ari Samphan and Ari Samphan Soi 2), +66-2-278-4113. 10AM-7PM daily. This is the typical cutesy coffeehouse common in Bangkok. There's a homey atmosphere as the whole place is decorated with flowers. A nice place to step in for some coffee or Thai tea. With a pie or sandwich.

- Dbaa, Ari Soi 2 (quite deep down in Ari Soi 2; on the left side if you walk from Soi Ari in the north). A hip bar in the Ari neighborhood, popular among the locals.

- Lesla, Chit Chat Club, Chok Chai 4 Soi 58 (MRT Lat Phrao), +66-2-618-7191, [4]. Sa 7PM-1AM. Lesla is a growing community of lesbians in Bangkok that organizes events for them to meet each other. Every Saturday night, a weekly get-together is held in the Chit Chat Club in the Lat Phrao neighborhood. 150 baht.

- Tawandang Microbrewery (Rong Beer Yereman, German Beer Hall), 51/199-200 Moo 1 Khwaeng (at the corner of Ram Intra Road and Yu Yen Road, at Ram Intra Soi 34), +66-2-944-5131(-2), [5]. 5PM-1AM daily. This is the second branch of this popular German microbrewery (the first branch is at Rama III Road near Silom). It is mostly popular among upper middle-class Thais. There's good food at reasonable prices, and a good stage show with many acts and fun music. It is a stretch to find it, as it is far off from Phahonyothin Road, but the trip is well worth it. Most taxis will know this place, just ask for the "Rong Beer Yereman" (German Beer Hall) and they should understand. Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends.

Sleep
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:

Budget

Under 1000 baht

Mid-range

1000 baht to 2500 baht

Splurge

Over 2500 baht

There are many accommodation options within a fifteen minute drive off the old Don Muang airport.

Budget
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- Bansabai Hostel, 8/137 Moo 3, Soi Sahakon 15, Lat Phrao Soi 71, +66-2-932-9200, [6]. This "hostel" is not really a hostel, more like a three-star hotel. It is unbelievably hard to find as it is deep in the sois of Lat Phrao, and about 16 kilometers from Victory Monument! So budget in some money for long taxi rides. The English skills of the staff are not that good, but no wonder, as this is far off in a quiet residential neighborhood. At least they try all they can, and are very responsible and hospitable. You get a lot of service for your money: a huge room, that is very clean, a balcony, air-conditioning, pool, fridge, cable TV, room service and a cheap mini bar. 700-800 baht.

- Chewhouse Guest House, 68/1 Soi Phahonyothin 6 (BTS Ari), +66-2-619-1164, [7]. An excellent guest house run by three friendly Thai pilots; one speaks fluent English from living in the United States for two years. There are ensuite rooms and dorm-type rooms. It has a great backpacker vibe and cheap beer, as well as free WiFi, water, kitchen facilities and warm water showers. 450 baht.

Mid-range
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- Amari Don Muang Airport, 333 Chert Wudthakas Rd, +66-2-566-1020, [8]. This four-star hotel is right beside Don Muang Airport and even connected to its terminal buildings by an enclosed overhead walkway. Since the opening of Suvarnabhumi Airport, the quality has gone down steadily though. While still a good hotel, breakfast, service and rooms are less impressive than before. Three restaurants closed down and there's only one left now, and breakfast is not included by default. There's still a good pool though. 1100-6725 baht.

- Mystic Place (formerly Reflections Rooms), 244/2-18 Pradiphat Rd (near BTS Saphan Khwai), +66-2-270-3344, [9]. Far off the wackiest place to stay in northern Bangkok, Mystic Place is a super-kitschy hotel. Each of the guest rooms has been designed by a different interior designer. Expect a full dose of clashing colors, bright plastic furniture and colorful mood lighting. Note that Reflections moved in 2008, the new location is less convenient and no longer has a pool. 1700-2100 baht.

- Rama Gardens, 9/9 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd, +66-2-561-0022, [10]. By any means a large and pleasant hotel. Rooms are spacious, comfortable and clean. Also has an elegant lobby, nice front gardens and a large breakfast. It is mostly useful if you're taking off from Don Muang Airport (or maybe if you want to stay closer to Ko Kret). 1600-4400 baht.

Splurge
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- Sofitel Centara Grand (formerly called Sofitel Central), 1695 Phahonyothin Rd (MRT Phahon Yothin), +66-2-541-1234, [11]. It is really far from downtown, but at least close to a convention center, shopping center and easily accessed from the expressway and metro. It is probably the best dig in this part of town. 3880-8700 baht.

Contact
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Getting online in Phahonyothin is not as easy as in other districts. Luckily, there is a free WiFi hotspot available near S&P at the ground floor of the Shinawatra Tower III (1011 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd, at Phahon Yothin MRT station).

Cope
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- Phyathai 2 Hospital, 943 Phahonyothin Rd (BTS Sanam Pao), +66-2-617-2444(-1711), [12]. This is a private hospital that follows international standards. Multiple languages are spoken.

Get out
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- Just follow Phahonyothin Road to the north as the concrete jungle continues in Rangsit. It has huge shopping malls and a hypermodern temple complex.

- Phahonyothin is already a pretty exotic part of Bangkok, but if you want a more serene experience, try Ko Kret.

- In the weekdays, when Chatuchak Weekend Market is closed, more cheap shopping is to be had in Pratunam.

District Ratchadaphisek Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By public transit

By boat

By bus

By taxi

• See

• Do

Entertainment

Cultural performances

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

Royal City Avenue (RCA)

Ratchada Soi 4

Ratchada Soi 6 and 8

Lesbian nightlife

Massage parlors

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

• Cope

Hospitals

Dentists

• Get out

Understand
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Ratchadaphisek, generally shortened to just Ratchada, breathes entertainment. While Sukhumvit's clubbing scene is probably the most impressive, it is totally overrun by expats. Ratchada's clubs, bars, cinemas, massage parlors and shopping malls almost exclusively cater to a local Thai audience (foreigners are welcome though). Saturday nights are busiest, with Thai students in their late teens and early 20s flocking in great numbers to "RCA", a pedestrian-only road that stands for Royal City Avenue. Being a government-designated entertainment zone, clubs here stay open till 2AM, which is one hour longer than elsewhere in Bangkok. The bars and clubs have spilled over beyond RCA onto the many sois Ratchadaphisek is rich.

Meanwhile, Chinese and Japanese mass tourism has discovered Ratchadaphisek, and there are many hotels and seafood restaurants fulfilling this demand. Western tourists, however, still come in surprisingly few numbers. Besides clubbing and fine dining, don't expect to see anything particularly interesting on this long, rather soulless road.

Orientation is quite straightforward. Ratchdaphisek Road is the main road that crosses right through the district from north to south. It is the transportation hub of the district as the MRT metro runs right beneath it. Many of Ratchadaphisek's sois intersect with the main road, with the uneven numbers at the west side and the even numbers at the east side.

Get in
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By public transit
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Since 2004, Ratchadaphisek has been completely served by the MRT metro system. The line exactly follows Ratchadaphisek Road with plenty of stops on it. If you are coming from Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam Square or Yaowarat and Phahurat, the metro is definitely the most convenient way to get in. The stations are, from south to north, Phetchaburi, Phra Ram 9, Thailand Cultural Centre, Huai Khwang, Sutthisan and Ratchadaphisek. The metro ride from Sukhumvit station takes about five minutes, while the ride from Si Lom station takes about ten minutes. Trains leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about 16 to 41 baht.

By boat
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Ratchadaphisek is not easy to reach by boat, but the Saen Saep Express Boat service does have some stops at the south side of the district. It generally is the fastest way to get into Ratchadaphisek if coming from Rattanakosin, Khao San Road or Dusit. A single trip from Rattanakosin to the district takes about 30 minutes (including a transfer at Pratu Nam pier) and costs around 8 to 20 baht. The most important pier is Asok, which is at walking distance of Ratchadaphisek Road. At Asok, it is possible to transfer to the metro at nearby Phetchaburi MRT station. If you're heading for Royal City Avenue (RCA), you can get out at Wat Mai Chong Lom pier. Other piers that border the district are Prasan Mit, Ital-Thai Tower, Thong Lo and Charrn Issara. All of these piers are served by the NIDA Line, which starts at Pratu Nam pier and runs all the way northeast to Ramkhamhaeng.

By bus
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There are about 20 bus lines covering Ratchadaphisek Road. Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 136 starts at the Khlong Toey Market (near Sukhumvit) and then follows the MRT northwards, along the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre, Asoke Road and Ratchadaphisek Road. It passes Sutthisan, Lat Phrao and Phahon Yothin MRT stations before heading for Chatuchak Weekend Market and the Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit). Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 206 also runs from Asoke Road north, along Ratchadaphisek Road to the intersection with Phahonyothin Road. Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 514 traverses Silom Road and drives along Ratchadamri Road, Ratchaprarop Road, Victory Monument and Din Daeng Road to the intersection with Asoke Road, where it heads north along Ratchadaphisek Road to the intersection with Lat Phrao Road.

By taxi
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You can also pull over a taxi — it's okay to say Ratchada ("RAHT-cha-dah" รัชดา), as everybody abbreviates it. Taxis are a comfortable way of getting around Ratchadaphisek, especially if you have to be in one of its sois, which can be complicated to navigate in. A ride from Sukhumvit should not cost you more than 50 baht, while a ride from Silom should not cost you more than 70 baht.

See
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- Thai Life Permanent Exhibition Hall (หอไทยนิทัศน์), Thailand Cultural Centre, Walthana Tham Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-247-0028, [1]. M-F 9:30AM-4:30PM, Sa-Su, hols closed. This venue displays the history of the Thai people and the different aspects of Thai culture, as developed from pre-historic times up to the present day. It mostly focuses on the struggle the Thai people have overcome throughout history to stay independent. The exhibition is divided into five topics covering the history of Thai culture, important archaeological sites in Thailand, world civilization, the origins of the Thais, and Thai language and literature. The information is told in a presentation using computer generated imagery, photography, slide-presentations and even puppets. Free.

Do
toc

Entertainment
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Ratchadaphisek is Bangkok's entertainment mecca, offering all the modern entertainment facilities you could expect from a large metropolis, including theaters, bowling, karaoke, go-karts and even an ice-skating rink. Most facilities are sparkly new, as they opened after the MRT line was finalized in 2002.

- Blu-O Rhythm and Bowl, 4F, Esplanade, 99 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-511-55443, [2]. 10AM-11PM daily. Kind of a weird entertainment venue as this complex combines karaoke rooms with bowling facilities, aimed at upper-middle class Thai ladies. Just the entrance is professional and neat in a glamorous blue, gold and white style. The karaoke rooms look much like living rooms with a DVD player and touch-screens. The 22-lane bowling alleys are world-class. After 5PM, bowlers play with a glow-in-the-dark ball in a dimly-lit environment. There are also DJs, lounge seats and you can have cocktails. 80-190 baht.

- BSC Bowl, 3F, RCA Plaza, 31/6-9 Royal City Avenue, +66-2-641-5870(-3). 10AM-1AM daily. This is a bowling center that does a fine job if you're looking for a night out with friends. It is really a huge place with dozens of bowling alleys lined up right next to each other.

- House RCA, 3F, RCA Plaza, 31/8 Royal City Avenue, +66-2-641-5177(-8), [3]. 11:45-midnight daily. This is a boutique art house cinema with two screens. No typical Hollywood films or Thai chick flicks here, expect Swedish art films and obscure Cantonese dramas. Foreign movies are subtitled both in Thai and in English. The cinema is not as luxury as those in Siam Paragon, but good enough. Don't trust any listings, as they are often wrong. Just turn up and see what they have on offer. 100 baht.

- Muangthai Ratchadalai Theatre, 4F, Esplanade, 99 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-669-8288, [4]. Opened in 2007, this 1500-seat musical theater has an extensive schedule of theater productions and live shows. Most of them cater to the locals, so inform before booking.

- PTT Speed Way, 2F, RCA Plaza, 31/11 Soi Soonvijai, +66-2-203-1205(-7), [5]. M-Tu, Th 4PM-midnight, F 4PM-3AM, Sa-Su, hols 1PM-midnight, W closed. Opened in March 2004, with 7000 square meters this is the largest indoor go-kart track in Asia. It has more than 100,000 visitors every year, most of them karting in the weekends. Formula 1 racer Nico Rosberg is known to have a membership here. But you don't have to be a good racer to do it, everybody can. 390 baht for 8 minutes.

- Spark Entertainment Center, BF, The Emerald Hotel, 99/1 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Huai Khwang), +66-2-276-4567, [6]. 11AM-1AM daily. Opened in April 2007, this is another one of Ratchada's entertainment meccas. This self-proclaimed "entertainment center" has a game room, karaoke rooms and a snooker table. Also included in the complex is the Carnival Pub with a live band and the Sparks Discotheque dance floor.

- UMG RCA Cinema, RCA Plaza, 31-6/9 Royal City Avenue, +66-2-641-5913(-4). Formerly boasting five screens, now two of them on the third floor have been remodeled into the House RCA art cinema. Three screens remain with about 1000 seats. It features recently released Hollywood and Thai mainstream films. 150 baht.

- Sub Zero Ice Skate Club, 4F, Esplanade, 99 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-354-2134. Two sessions at 11AM-5PM and 5:30PM-1AM daily. Yeah, logical, it is 35 degrees outside, let's go to an ice skating club! It's a completely original experience though, as at daytime you can just skate around or take lessons, while at night, this turns into some swanky club complete with strobe lights, live DJs and bars made from ice. Just don't forget to bring jackets.

Cultural performances
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The area around Thailand Cultural Centre is the place to go for cultural performances. Siam Niramit is one of the best traditional Thai shows in Bangkok.

- Golden Dome Cabaret, 252/5 Ratchadaphisek Soi 18 (MRT Sutthisan, then a short taxi-ride), +66-2-692-8202(-5). Showtimes 5PM, 7PM, 10PM daily. Another one of Bangkok's typical ladyboy shows. Three shows are given every evening.

- Siam Niramit (สยามนิรมิต), 19 Tiamruammit Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre, it is diagonally across from the Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-649-9222, [7]. Showtime 8PM. This is a state-of-the-art cultural performances center, which uses modern technology integrated with old fashioned drama to depict the history of each region of Thailand. The story also includes depictions about hells, the forest of Himmaphan, heavens and lands beyond imagination from Thai literature, all of which are influenced by Thai common beliefs. There is also a spectacular performance of Thailand's arts and cultural heritage. The show is staged by more than 150 performers. 1500 baht.

- Thailand Cultural Centre (ศูนย์วัฒนธรรมแห่งประเทศไทย), Walthana Tham Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-247-0028, [8]. The Thailand Cultural Centre is a fully integrated venue for social education and cultural activities. There aren't many foreigners in this area, so most of the shows are aimed at local visitors. It is a world-class center that has room for more than 2000 visitors. There's always something on, most of the time (inter)national symphony orchestra performances, but most foreigners come over to see a traditional Thai cultural show. You might want to call in first and find out about the current programme before heading out.

Buy
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- Carrefour (คาร์ฟูร์), 125 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-800-8099, [9]. 9AM-11PM daily.

- Esplanade (ดิเอสพลานาด), 99 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-642-2000, [10]. 10AM-11PM daily. Seven stories of phone shops and beauty stores with some cinemas, restaurants (mostly Japanese), cafes and gyms added in-between. The most stunning features here are the ice skating rink and the bowling alley, the only features that differentiate this mall from the others. It is quite unorganized and feels a bit chaotic (in that way, the atmosphere has some in common with Pantip Plaza). All in all, it lacks personality and the only real reason to visit is if you happen to be in the area.

- Fortune Town (ฟอร์จูนทาวน์), Fortune Town Bldg, 1 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Phra Ram 9, slight north of the intersection of Ratchadaphisek Rd and Rama IX Rd), +66-2-641-1884(-6), [11]. 10AM-10PM daily. Just like Pantip Plaza in Pratunam, but much less touristy, this is one of the best places in Bangkok to buy computer gear. It has an extensive mobile phone section on the second floor and computer sections on the third and fourth floors. The supermarket Tesco Lotus is incorporated in the complex, as are many barber shops, restaurants and a food court.

- Ratchada Night Bazaar (ตลาดของมือสอง ริมแยกรัชดา-ลาดพร้าว), Ratchadaphisek Rd-Lat Phrao Rd intersection (MRT Ratchadaphisek). F-Su 7PM-11:30PM. An enormous night bazaar that has little in common with the other bazaars in the city. It's basically one dirty parking lot completely filled with small stores, carts and hawker stalls. This is an absolute must-visit for vintage lovers with such a vast amount of used products, it's amazing. Some of the items you'll find are antiques, furniture, clothes, shoes, jeans, accessories, trinkets, decor items, knick-knacks, camera, books, toys, radios and TVs. But the absolute highlight of the market are the vintage motorcycles and cars. The vendors are retro-minded and the wide display of hippie Volkswagen vans, Mini Coopers, Vespas and Yamahas is really fun to stroll through. The market has a kind of hip and trendy atmosphere aimed at local teenagers, you won't see a lot of foreigners here. It opens at 7PM on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, but you really should visit on Saturdays as the other days do not have the same atmosphere.

- Robinson (โรบินสัน), 139 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-248-2626(-35), [12]. 10AM-10PM daily.

Eat
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Ratchadaphisek has plenty of seafood restaurants that cater to high-end Chinese and Japanese tourists (though are still quite affordable compared to the Western countries). The Huai Khwang area has lots of restaurants, especially good for late night dining. If you happen to be in Royal City Avenue (RCA), south of the road is RCA Plaza with plenty of food outlets, a food court and a TOPS Supermarket.

Near MRT Phra Ram 9 lies Ratchada Soi 3 that is home to some excellent street food at low prices. You might want to try some khao man kai (chicken and rice with chili sauce) or moo yang (grilled pork) here. It won't cost you more than 80 baht.

- Bali Seafood (Ban Suan Seafood), 70/13 Ratchadaphisek Soi 6 (MRT Thailand Cultural Center), +66-2-248-6753. This restaurant and megabar, with the unassuming title Bali Seafood, belies the grand stature of what it encompasses. Big screen TVs, blasting music both live and recorded, and humming with as many as 4000 young Thais, all of them eating, drinking and socializing show how large this place actually is. 400 baht.

- Nathong Restaurant, 569/1 Pracha Uthit Rd (MRT Huai Khwang, then continue by taxi), +66-2-691-0641, [13]. 11AM-1:30PM daily. This Thai restaurant is featured in the movie Bangkok Dangerous, where Nicolas Cage takes the deaf girl to dinner. It is not upper class by any means, but the seating area surrounding the pond looks nice. There's a large menu, making it hard to pick... but that's only good! 250 baht.

- Somboon Seafood (สมบูรณ์โภชนา), 167/9-12 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Huai Khwang, exit 3), +66-2-692-6850(-3), [14]. 4PM-11:30PM daily. This place offers good Chinese and Thai-style seafood. Be sure to try the curry crab, one of their specialties. 500 baht.

Drink
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If you are looking for entertainment the locals enjoy, Royal City Avenue and Ratchadaphisek Road are an interesting night out. These nightclubs are huge, and most of them boost stunning visual effects. Partying here is quite different from the usual tourist places. Instead of 40-year old tourists, expect local early 20-something university students. Ordering drinks goes by bottle, instead of per glass, and the locals dance while standing at their tables (not on the dance floor). The same are the ID checks; always bring identification papers as they will be checked upon entry.

Royal City Avenue (RCA)
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Royal City Avenue, usually referred to as RCA, is a popular and trendy road open only to pedestrians. It has gone through some tough times. In 2002, the whole street was pretty much dead as it was known as a place where under-aged locals would sneak in for their alcohol needs. It had a reputation for having bad facilities and long queues for the toilets. After a heavy social order campaign, ID-checks have been introduced and heavily enforced, with only those 20 or older allowed entry.

RCA became hip and happening again, with many of the biggest nightclubs in Thailand. Many clubs have been refurbished with absolutely stunning interiors and special effects. To boost its image, especially a lot of dedication has gone in the design of toilets. Route 66 is said to have some of the fanciest toilets in the world, with live bands performing while you need to go. There's also racks of magazines in case you're taking your time and a make-up room for the ladies.

Foreigners aren't common, but aren't unwelcome either.

- 808 Nightclub, Royal City Avenue Block C, Soi Sun Wichai (just a bit south of club Route 66), [15]. Tu-Su 9PM-2AM, M closed. One of the busiest clubs of RCA, this is the place to be for electro and house music. Many international DJs perform at the elevated stage, which makes the DJ stand out from the crowd. They are supported by stunning special effects, good sound systems and flashy lights. Admission fee varies.

- Baroque Bar, 559 Rama IX Soi 6 (near the Rama IX Road and RCA intersection), +66-2-245-8950. 10PM-3:30AM daily. At the edge of RCA, this nightclub is a more elegant place that attracts a wealthier crowd (unlike the other clubs that mostly cater to university students). The interior is plush and absolutely overwhelming; it kind of feels like entering a giant Baroque-style residence. One room pumps up house and dance/trance music, while the other room puts up live performances. Often it stays open well beyond 2AM, stretching 3:30AM or even later. Free.

- Cosmic Cafe, Royal City Avenue Block C (across Route 66), +66-8-9670-3720. 7PM-2PM daily. This is a small chill-out lounge, not a large club like the others. Not a place for dancing or partying, but good if you want to have a conversation or play some pool. The music is a mixed bag, but it's generally mellow and relaxed. On Wednesdays Thai 1980s music is on. It's good for peoplewatching as you have a good view on the road, and there's free WiFi available. Free.

- DuDe (formerly known as JazzIt), 21/39-40 Royal City Avenue Block C (opposite the Route 66, behind the Hair Story salon), [16]. 1AM-late daily. This club offers deep house music, electro and jazz performed by international DJs and there are pop/rock live music bands. Great wine bar with a wide selection of international cocktails.

- Flix/Slim, Royal City Avenue Block D, +66-2-203-0377(-8). Tu-Sa 7PM-2AM, Su-M closed. This is a colossal conglomerate of three large rooms and two fused clubs. Flix mostly focuses on house music, while Flix is separated in two "zones", one of them with hip hop music and the other with a live band performances (and is also a dining room with seats and tables). The interior is absolutely stunning, and can be seen from the outside through the glass. The crowd, as is usual on RCA, are mostly local twenty-somethings. Free.

- H.O.B.B. (House of Bangkok Bar), 59-62 Soi Sun Wichai, Royal City Avenue (next to Route 66), +66-2-641-5959. 7PM-2AM daily. One of the newest clubs, and yet another one with live music performances. Obviously catering to locals, expect Thai pop, rock, house and hip-hop.

- Overtone Music Cave, 29/70-72 Royal City Avenue Block C (near 808 Nightclub), +66-2-641-4283, [17]. W-Su 5PM-2AM, M-Tu closed. Instead of a general nightclub, all the chairs here are aimed towards the stage, so visitors actually listen and watch the bands perform. The focus is not on drinking, but on listening., usually with jazz, rock or blues bands. A Singha or Corona sets you back 100 baht, a cocktail costs you around 150 baht. Free.

- Prop Bar, 23/51-53 Rama IX Rd, +66-2-203-0699. 8PM-2AM daily. Not as ginormous as the big clubs, Prop Bar is more a place for relaxing than for hard partying. Usually there is a rock or ska group playing at the stage area. The only foreigners around RCA usually do not make it this far out, as it is completely at the northern side of RCA.

- Route 66, Royal City Avenue Block B, 29/33-48 Soi Soonvijai (northwest of 808 Nightclub), +66-2-203-0834, [18]. Route 66 is one of the largest and most well-known clubs on RCA. It is terribly crowded with young, trendy Thais, especially on weekends. There are different wings, each having a different music genre or live band. All this is combined with beautiful light effects and animations on the walls and ceiling.

Ratchada Soi 4
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Ratchada Soi 4 is a collection of several dozen music pubs very popular with 20-something Thais. Formerly a second-hand car lot, and with still some cars on sale at daytime, this soi gives kind of an insight in how young Thais like to have a good time out. The music is often way too loud, but that seems to be the main attraction. These clubs are not as impressive as those on RCA, they feel a bit run down and trashy, but are still good fun. The main clubs here include:

- Rad, 56/17 Ratchadaphisek Soi 4 (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-245-0789. 9:30PM-2AM daily. As popular as it is loud, this music pub is a great place for a fun night out. The music here is a mix of hip-hop, dance and electronic music, with live bands performing. Free.

- Snop, 58/5 Ratchadaphisek Soi 4 (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-612-2459. 7PM-2AM daily. The most popular of the Soi 4 clubs, and already stands out from the rest with its cool light effects outside. With two floors, connected by an escalator, it is certainly large and impressive. The interior is trendy and stylish with the tables neatly lined up. A great place to see local nightlife and hear Thai bands. Free.

- Zaleng, Ratchadaphisek Soi 4 (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-248-5404. 7PM-2AM daily. The interesting red carpet entry gives you a choice between two rooms, one with house/trance, and the other with the usual Thai performance band. Like the others, it's crazy loud, so forget any verbal communication. You'll be walking out with a beep in your ear. Free.

Ratchada Soi 6 and 8
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A hot spot of late for local teens. Not a single venue, but a collection of several dozen large clubs. Hollywood Awards is by far the largest and best known one.

- Dance Fever, Ratchadaphisek Soi 6 (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre, exit 2), +66-2-247-4295. 7PM-2AM daily. Dance Fever has previously hosted concerts by Erasure and Bush. It is highly favored among Japanese tourists.

- Hollywood Awards, 72/2 Ratchadaphisek Soi 8 (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre, exit 2), +66-2-246-4311(-3), [19]. 7PM-2AM daily. Hollywood is one of the largest clubs of Bangkok, and represents the Bangkok of yesteryear with flashy neon lights and corny stage performances. It has a large drinking hall (no dance floor) with sexy entertainers performing cover tunes on stage, a bit like a cabaret. Don't expect to sit down anywhere though, as there are no seats.

- Inch, 55/49-60 Ratchadaphisek Rd (not on Soi 6 or 8, but across Ratchadaphisek Road, close to Esplanade and Thailand Cultural Centre MRT station), +66-2-641-2963(-4). 7:30PM-1AM daily. A massive club that has space for over 2,500 visitors. Most of the visitors are wealthy young Thais. The club has a modern appearance, a cool steel and glass look that's a pleasure to look at. It is split in two rooms; the futuristic room boasts hip-hop music, while the retro room has large disco balls and live band performances. Free.

Lesbian nightlife
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For years, Bangkok's lesbian nightlife was almost non-existent, and the few bars that did exist were spread all over the city. Now a community of lesbian bars has started to emerge in Royal City Avenue, lead by Zeta and E-Fun.

- E-Fun, 21/135 RCA Block D (opposite Overture), +66-8-1777-8018, [20]. 8PM-2AM daily. This is Bangkok's newest lesbian-only venue, opened in 2008. This bar, however, might not be too appealing for most Western lesbians, as it caters to "tom-dees", Thais who don't like to be referred to as lesbians and follow strict gender roles.

- Zeta, RCA Block C (at the intersection with Tops Supermarket), +66-2-203-0994. 8PM-2AM daily. Opened in the middle of 2006, this is the first lesbian-only bar in Bangkok. Only girls are allowed, no men (gay men and drag queens are also not allowed). As it's in the middle of RCA, it attracts quite a young public, and like other clubs in RCA, it is very crowded at weekends.

Massage parlors
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Ratchadaphisek Road features many types of massage parlors ranging from upscale spas specializing in traditional Thai massage to the so-called "soapy" massage parlors (that are quite famous in the area). These latter parlors are little more than a front for prostitution. They are indicated by big flashy yet windowless buildings with names like Emmanuelle, Poseidon, Caesar's, and further south, Mona Lisa. Most of these are in the area around Huai Khwang MRT station. Note that taking a taxi directly to one of these will often have the driver expecting a commission; this will be added to your bill if you're there for service, and potentially resulting in an annoyed driver if you are just stopping in.

Sleep
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:

Budget

Under 1000 baht

Mid-range

1000 baht to 2500 baht

Splurge

Over 2500 baht

Not as popular as the Sukhumvit area for western tourists, but there are some big hotels here. Many cater to high-end Chinese and Japanese visitors.

Budget
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- Tailek's House BKK, 93 Pracha Suk Rd (across the entrance to Inthamara Soi 30; access via Ratchadaphisek Soi 17), +66-8-8876-4398. A friendly five-story guest house run by American/Thai friends. It is clean and relaxed with various sleeping areas — both common and somewhat private. There is a main area for meals, massage and relaxing. Amenities include free WiFi, the use of a big kitchen, occasional Thai cooking lessons and delicious meals from Ms. Bee. "Tailek" is the name of the two-year old kid that lives in the house. 300 baht. (13.78689,100.56713)

- Watana Mansion, 209 Ratchadaphisek Soi 17 (MRT Sutthisan), +66-2-275-0110. A 14-story basic hotel offering clean, basic rooms with air-conditioning. Wattana Mansion has a small swimming pool, 24 hour room service and an internet cafe with four computers and wireless access (if you have your laptop with you) for 20 baht per 30 minutes. The staff doesn't seem to care much, though, and the restaurant is not worth it. 600-650 baht.

Mid-range
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- Bangkok Cha-Da (formerly Siam Beverly Hotel), 188 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Huai Khwang), +66-2-275-4397, [21]. This 14-story hotel has recently been refurbished (and renamed). Rooms are clean and spacious, and look new and modern. The size of the pool is a tad small, and the restaurant's dishes are bland and uninspired. And don't change money here, as the rates are awful. 1500 baht.

Splurge
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- A-One Bangkok Hotel, 9 Sun Wichai Soi 4 (Thong Lo pier), +66-2-718-1030, [22]. This is a decent hotel with a pool. It's quite far off from any public transportation networks, so you'll have to get by on taxi. Many people stay here for its location close to Bangkok Hospital. Free WiFi in the lobby. 2500 baht.

- Chaophya Park Hotel, 247 Ratchadaphisek Road (MRT Ratchadaphisek), +66-2-290-0125, [23]. This is a good three-star hotel with big, spacious and clean rooms. The rooms might be a little old, but still good. The area is very quiet, there are no shops, but also no "massage parlors". It is close to the MRT, so you're in Chatuchak Weekend Market in no time. 4400 baht.

- Emerald Hotel, 99/1 Ratchadapisek Rd (MRT Huai Khwang), +66-2-276-4567, [24]. The Emerald is centrally located in the Ratchadaphisek area, with just a five-minutes walk to the nearest metro station. It also has very good Chinese food at an affordable price. Rooms are a little worn, though, but the beds are large and comfy and there is a good bathroom. 3500 baht.

- Grand Mercure Hotel (Old Fortune Hotel), Fortune Town Bldg, 1 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Phra Ram 9), +66-2-641-1500, [25]. A four-star hotel in the southern part of the Fortune Town Building, which is home to the IT Mall and the Tesco Lotus supermarket. The hotel is at the Rama IX Rd and Ratchadaphisek Rd intersection. 2800-12,000 baht.

- Princeton Park, 3 Mitmaitri Rd, +66-2-617-4600, [26]. Recently refurbished hotel that is far off in the sois of Ratchadaphisek, so not very convenient for going anywhere. Even an MRT metro station is far off, so you'll have to use the taxi for everything. It does have a pool, gym, cafe and a convenience store, though. 3000-4200 baht.

- Swissotel Le Concorde, 157-159 Ratchadaphisek Rd (MRT Huai Khwang), +66-2-694-2222, [27]. Luxury hotel with spacious rooms. It starts with the lobby, which is huge and has an impressive chandelier. For a five-star hotel, the furniture does feel a little old and dull, but its still good. 3000-4500 baht.

Contact
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Your best bet for free WiFi is the Esplanade shopping mall. There are plenty of hotspots available from McDonald's, CoffeeWorld and other cafes and restaurants. Just take a sit at one of the public benches at the ground floor and you won't have to worry about not finding a hotspot.

Cope
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Hospitals
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- Bangkok Hospital, 2 Sun Wichai, 7 New Petchburi Rd (Thong Lo pier), +66-2-310-3000, [28]. One of Thailand's premier hospitals, it is close to RCA and has an international air ambulance. Other hospital locations include Pattaya and Phuket. Multiple languages are spoken.

- Piyavate Hospital, 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd (near Royal City Avenue), +66-2-625-6500, [29]. This is a publicly-owned hospital near Royal City Avenue and Rama IX Road. It has been opened since 1993 and is currently servicing around 300 beds.

- Pra Ram 9 Hospital (โรงพยาบาลพระรามเก้า), 998 Rama IX Rd (MRT Phra Ram 9), +66-2-195-5130, [30]. Private hospital close to Fortune Town and the Chinese Embassy. Some foreigners come here for their health and check-up program.

Dentists
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- Bangkok International Dental Center (BIDC), 157-159 Ratchadaphisek Rd, +66-2-692-4433, [31]. The BIDC is a seven-story private dental hospital that follows internationa standards, as it has a ISO 9001:2008 UKAS certification. It is one of the largest dental clinics in Bangkok with 4800 square meters of floor space. (13.759394,100.752869)

Get out
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- If you like the seafood restaurants in Ratchadaphisek, then you should definitely check out the delicious seafood dishes in Yaowarat. Just jump on the metro in southwards direction and get out at the last stop, Hua Lamphong.

- Take the MRT north to Phahonyothin and you'll be in Chatuchak Weekend Market in no time. Keep in mind that this enormous market is only opened on Saturdays and Sundays.

District Ramkhamhaeng Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By boat

By public transit

By bus

• Get around

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
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Eastern Bangkok almost stands synonymous to Ramkhamhaeng Road, a major traffic artery that gets jammed every morning and evening with daily commuters working in downtown. Rising property values in Sukhumvit has made this area more interesting to foreign expatriates in recent years, although seeing a farang is still a rare occurrence. With a total length of 18 kilometers, Ramkhamhaeng Road starts at Phetchaburi Road near Sukhumvit and ends far in the northeast at the junction with Suwinthawong Road (in the neighborhood Min Buri).

The lower southwestern part is known as Hua Mark, a neighborhood completely dominated by Ramkhamhaeng University. "RU", as it is commonly known, was opened in 1971 as Thailand's first open-admission university. It has an astonishing amount of students — official statistics state about half a million, almost all of them undergraduates. The university gave the neighborhood its lively appearance, with many students shopping and dining at The Mall Ramkhamhaeng. Rajamangala Stadium can also be found here. Completed in 1998, it played an important role in the 1998 Asian Games and the 2007 AFC Asian Cup. It is also used as the current stadium of Thailand's national football team.

The junction with Srinagarindra Road is known as Lam Sali intersection. Go north from here and you'll stumble at Lat Phrao Road, which marks the beginning of a neighborhood known as Bang Kapi. It is actually quite similar to Hua Mark, as everything still looks like a big grey mass of concrete, but students are outrun here by daily commuters. The Mall Bangkapi stole the hearts of the locals, and Thais flock to it in big numbers. For foreigners, there is actually not that much to do. Attractions are few and far off, and the shopping malls are lacking compared to those in other districts. It can easily be skipped on any Bangkok itinerary, but then you miss out on seeing where and how most of the locals live.

You would almost forget that nearly all foreign visitors to Thailand land here at Suvarnabhumi Airport in the far east of the district. Development in eastern Bangkok has been relatively slow, and it is expected that the recent construction of the airport will be the motor for more urban development in the area. Until now, this has at least been true for the hotel business, with many new hotels constructed at Lat Krabang Road trying to make a buck out of transferring passengers.

Get in
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By boat
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Bangkok and its traffic-congested commercial districts, including Ramkhamhaeng Road, are hard to navigate by car. Thus, the best way to get into the area is by boat. The Saen Saep Express Boat service runs on the canal of the same name, and you don't have to worry about getting stuck in traffic! The service runs about every 5 to 10 minutes and as the canal is exactly parallel to Ramkhamhaeng Road wit many stops along that road.

It is a fast and inexpensive way of transport as a single trip costs about 9 to 19 baht, depending on the distance travelled. The most important stops are The Mall Ram (in Hua Mark) and The Mall Bangkapi, both of which are served by the NIDA Line (that starts in Pratunam and goes all the way northeast to Wat Sriboonreung). The route is served by 100 boats of 40-50 seats, and operates from 5:30AM to 8:30PM daily. Most piers have English signs up, but be wary, as The Mall Ram does not have any sign at all, and from the boat it is not clear that you have reached the mall!

Be wary of sitting at the outer sides of the boat as polluted water from the canal sometimes spills over on-board. Also be careful when entering and exiting the boats as "safety first" does not seem to apply for the crew here. During rush hour, you might have to fight your way in the boat as too many people are trying to get on. Another minor annoyance is the noisy atmosphere during the ride, don't expect a sensual experience.

By public transit
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Opened in August 2010, the Airport Rail Link is an alternative way of getting in. The City Line of that service has a stop at Ramkhamhaeng, which is at the utter southwest of the district at the beginning of Ramkhamhaeng Road. There is a direct service from Suvarnabhumi Airport in the east, as well as from Phaya Thai, Ratchaprarop and Makkasan stations in the west. Do not take the Express Line as it skips Ramkhamhaeng completely.

By bus
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Getting to Ramkhamhaeng by bus is very troublesome, but at least its a cheap way of doing some exploring. Expect a long ride though, and ask a local where to get off as you easily get lost in traffic. An important route is bus 40, that starts at Hualamphong Train Station and then passes Rama IV Road, Phaya Thai Road, Siam Square, Sukhumvit, Pridi Phanomyong Road and Ramkhamhaeng Road with The Mall Ramkhamhaeng as its final destination.

Get around
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Getting around this vast district is sure to give you a headache. The locals use their own transport for attractions that lie too far off a boat pier or ARL station. Of course, metered taxis are abundant, but expect long rides and high fares (especially during rush hour). Buses are cheaper, but without a decent bus map, you are sure to get lost. Bus 58 and 113 from Makkasan Station drive over Phetchaburi Road and then head for Ramkhamhaeng Road. Both are useful bus routes for getting around as they travel all along Ramkhamhaeng Road from Hua Mark in the southwest to Min Buri in the northeast (and back).

See
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- Prasart Museum, 9 Soi Krungthep Kritha 8 Yaek 14, +66-2-379-3601. F-Su 10AM-3PM, must call to RSVP. This eclectic museum sprawls across manicured gardens, pavilions, shrines, chapels, and even an exact replica of the teak Red Palace (built by King Rama I for his sister). On display are art and antiques from all eras of Thai history, as well books and manuscripts, and replicas of various prominent Thai architectural works. Mr. Prasart is usually around, and he and his staff will make sure you have a nice guided tour of the place. 500 baht.

- Wat Theplila (วัดเทพลีลา), Ramkhamhaeng Soi 41 (Wat Thepleela pier; at the end of Soi 41). One of the few temples in the Ramkhamhaeng area, this is a local temple that shows how the local inhabitants practice Buddhism. It is a big compound, which is fairly lively with people praying and showing respect to the Buddha statues. It was built in 1842 during the reign of King Nangklao (Rama III). At that time, the temple was known as Wat Tuek or Wat Tuek Khlong Ton. Saen Saep Canal was dug for transporting troops and weapons to Cambodia. During digging work, Pang Lila was found at this location, a 1.2 meters tall Sukhothai-style walking Buddha image. The temple was renamed to Wat Theplila during the reign of King Chulalongkorn.

Do
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- Major Cineplex Bangkapi, 3F, Lotus Supercenter, 3109 Lat Phrao Rd (The Mall Bangkapi pier), +66-2-378-2435(-7), [1]. M-F 10AM-midnight, Sa-Su 9AM-midnight. 60-220 baht.

- Major Cineplex Fashion Island, 3F, Fashion Island, 587-589 Ram Intra Rd, +66-2-508-7384, [2]. M-F 11AM-11:30PM, Sa-Su 10AM-11:30PM. 120 baht.

- Major Cineplex Ramkhamhaeng, 73 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (Ramkhamhaeng.29 pier), +66-2-319-3036(-8), [3]. 10:30AM-midnight daily. One of the Major Cineplex chain of cinemas, this is a fairly modern branch that is close to Ramkhamhaeng University. English movies are shown, and Thai movies have subtitles in English. There are plenty of shops and places to eat around if you want to kill time till your movie begins. 120 baht.

- Safari World (ซาฟารีเวิลด์), 99 Panyaintra Rd, +66-2-518-1000(-19), [4]. M-F 9AM-4:30PM, Sa, Su, hols 9AM-5:30PM. Safari World is Bangkok's greatest open zoo and leisure park. The 300-acre complex comprises a safari park that is populated by African and Asian mammals, a marine park with amusing performances of well-trained dolphins and seals, a bird park and a games corner. 700 baht.

- Siam Park City (สวนสยาม), Sukhaphiban 2 Rd, +66-2-919-7200(-19), [5]. 10AM-6PM daily. This water amusement park contains a man-made sea with towering slides. Satellite attractions include children's playgrounds, aviaries, an open zoo and a botanical garden. 200 baht.

Buy
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There are plenty of shopping malls in the area, and these are your best bet for getting daily necessities. If you want to buy cheap, there is an interesting street market running kilometers north along Ramkhamhaeng Road from The Mall Ramkhamhaeng 3. Many of the stalls only set up around 6PM, so the area is at its liveliest around 7PM. Expect endless stalls of clothes and accessories, mostly visited by local (female) commuters.

- Central Power Center Huamark, 177 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (between Ramkhamhaeng Soi 27 and 29), +66-2-718-6000. 9AM-11PM daily. Another ordinary shopping mall, which is quite lively but not as crowded as in downtown. It looks a bit old, but is still a nice browse as prices are noticeably cheaper than in The Mall. As usual, most of the products cater to local 20-somethings, including clothes, accessories, bags, beauty products and mobile phones. There is also an ATM at Aeon Bank, which does not charge the 150 baht commission on using foreign cards.

- Fashion Island, 587-589 Ram Intra Rd (at the crossing of Ram Intra Road and the expressway), +66-2-947-5000, [6]. M-F 11AM-9PM, Sa-Su, hols 10AM-9PM. Fashion Island is a large shopping mall that, as the name indicates, mostly focuses on fashion stores. But it's not just clothes, shoes and design, as there are plenty of books, gems, jewelry and furniture on sale. The usual chain restaurants, cafes and cinemas are also present, as is Robinson Department Store. There's even an amusement park with a monorail running around the mall.

- The Mall Ramkhamhaeng 2, 144 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (The Mall Ram pier), +66-2-310-1200, [7]. M-F 10:30AM-10PM, Sa-Su, hols 10AM-10PM. This complex actually consists of two separate shopping malls, The Mall 3 at the northern side of Ramkhamhaeng Road and The Mall 2 at the southern side. Both are directly connected with each other and the road by an overhead pedestrian bridge. It is a good place to get something to eat, for example at Home Fresh Mart. There are plenty of chain restaurants too, including McDonald's at the side of the road.

- The Mall Ramkhamhaeng 3, 49 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (The Mall Ram pier), +66-2-310-1000‎, [8]. M-F 10:30AM-10PM, Sa-Su 10AM-10PM. The Mall 3 is rather generic and uninspiring, and anything on sale here can be found elsewhere in Bangkok (probably for less too). As it opened in 1986, it is obvious that it is older and more cramped than The Mall Bangkapi, but prices are somewhat cheaper. There are only a few escalators, so expect to walk the stairs to get to the upper levels. There are a lot of clothes stores, and clothes always seem to be on sale in the common space on the ground floor. Of course there are also the usual DVD and book stores, and a plethora of chain restaurants, such as KFC.

- The Mall Bangkapi, 3522 Lat Phrao Rd (The Mall Bangkapi pier), +66-2-173-1000, [9]. M-F 10:30AM-10PM, Sa-Su, hols 10AM-10PM. A huge shopping mall that looks like it has just been pumped out of the ground (even while it already dates from 1994!). It looks brand new, shiny white and boasts four floors with all the chain stores you could possibly imagine. Thais absolutely love it, and flock to it in large numbers, but for travelers it is "been there done that". All the usual stores are in place, but at least it is a lively area with many commuters. Another plus is the Aeon Bank, which is the only bank that doesn't charge the 150 baht added commission for using foreign cards.

Eat
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If you're looking for a quick snack, nearly all the sois of lower Ramkhamhaeng have carts serving simple street food for 50 baht or less. Aimed at the locals, prices at these street markets are remarkably cheaper than in common tourist spots. There is a food market at Ramkhamhaeng Road, just south of the intersection with Rama IX Road. It seems to be at its best during evening commute time. Finally, all three The Mall department stores have a big selection of chain restaurants in all shapes and sizes.

- Chlorophyll Bar and Grill, 82 Lat Phrao Soi 64 (just inside the soi from Lat Phrao Road), +66-8-707-0268. This Bali-inspired restaurant features outdoor dining in a quaint garden setting. They serve Thai and Japanese fair with an occasional musician at the weekends.

- Power Food Center, GF, Central Power Center Huamark, 177 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (between Ramkhamhaeng Soi 27 and 29), +66-2-718-6000. 9AM-11PM daily. This is the food court of Central Power Center shopping mall, and it does a really good job at it. There are about a dozen separate counters for different kinds of food, including a Japanese, a Thai and a European food counter and a beverages counter. It works with a coupon system, so first buy coupons at the booth. Then you can spend these at any of the counters surrounding the central seating area. Recommended for those on a budget. 45-70 baht.

- Sinthorn Steak House, 3331/2 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (between soi 85 and 87, near Lam Sali intersection), +66-2-377-7322, [10]. 11AM-11PM daily. This steak restaurant is touted as the largest halal restaurant in Thailand. Obviously they serve Arabian steaks, but also American steaks, European steaks, Italian food, Thai food and (from 4PM onwards) Korean-style meat buffet. 300-1000 baht.

Drink
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There are plenty of coffee chains at the malls, including a Starbucks at The Mall Bangkapi. Some gay bars have congregated around Lam Sali intersection at Ramkhamhaeng Road.

- Jungle Jim's International Restaurant & Sports Bar, 165/5 Moo 3, Ramkhamhaeng Soi 112, +66-2-729-4763, [11]. M-F 3PM-11PM, Sa-Su 7:30AM-11PM. Probably the only bar in the area that caters to foreigners living in the area. You can shoot some pool or sit outside at the lake. It's a place for relaxing, having a conversation and listening to music. There are 25 different kinds of beer on tap.

Sleep
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This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:

Budget

Under 1000 baht

Mid-range

1000 baht to 2500 baht

Splurge

Over 2500 baht

The western part of Ramkhamhaeng Road has lately become more popular among expatriates, as accommodation is cheaper than in Sukhumvit and Siam Square, while the Saen Saep Express Boat brings you to those districts in around 20 minutes. But further off it is still a long taxi ride to downtown.

The area around Lat Krabang Road has seen a fast development of hotels recently due to its proximity to Suvarnabhumi Airport. Many visitors stay the night here in case they arrive or take off at awkward times. Some visitors are only on transit and never even get to the city itself — for those, there are plenty of accommodation options for all budgets.

As Suvarnabhumi Airport is technically in Samut Prakan, there are also plenty of accommodation options close to the airport in that province.

Budget
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- Nasa Vegas Hotel, 44 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (ARL Ramkhamhaeng; at the intersection of Ramkhamhaeng Road and Kamphaeng Phet 7 Road), +66-2-719-9888, [12]. You can't miss this one walking down the road as it has an enormous size. Rooms are a bit small and furniture a bit dated, but they are clean, so for the money paid it is a good value. Not really close to the airport, but it is close to the Ramkhamhaeng ARL stop, which brings you to the airport in about 20 minutes. The downer of the ARL is that it runs right beside the hotel, which can give noise in some rooms. 890-2900 baht.

Mid-range
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- Grand Pinnacle Hotel, 444/4 Soi Maecham, On Nut-Lat Krabang Rd (taxis have a difficult time finding it, so instead call the hotel for a free pick-up from the airport), +66-2-327-3876(-9), [13]. This hotel is right at the edge of the airport, but surprisingly it has little aircraft noise. The staff at the desk speaks English well. There is no lift, so you have to walk up the stairs. Rooms are air-conditioned and have a room bar fridge, but the bathroom is a little cramped. A Western breakfast is included in the price, and while it is basic, it is satisfactory. There are restaurants on the road outside to the right of the hotel within a short distance. 1500 baht.

- Great Residence Hotel, 1892/1 Lat Krabang Rd (free pick-up from the airport), +66-2-172-6150, [14]. This hotel is only a five minutes ride from Suvarnabhumi Airport on the cusp of the airport grounds. Rate includes an American breakfast and a transfer from the airport. 1800-2600 baht.

- JL Bangkok, 5 Ramkhamhaeng Soi 23 (The Mall Ram pier), +66-2-369-2407(-9), [15]. This is a boutique accommodation in a cozy and friendly atmosphere. It is only a one-minute walk to the night market and nearby malls. It is 23 kilometers from the airport, so not particularly close. The rate includes daily breakfast and free wireless Internet access. 1400-2200 baht.

- MetroPoint Bangkok Hotel, 666 Lat Phrao Soi 130 (Wat Klang pier), +66-2-138-7777, [16]. This hotel is quite far from the airport (about 22 kilometers), but it is close to the lively Bang Kapi neighborhood and The Mall Bangkapi shopping mall. The hotel has 172 all non-smoking rooms that have private terraces and free WiFi. 1900-3500 baht. (13.768596,100.632566)

- Queen's Garden Resort, 22 Lat Krabang Soi 7 (there's a free airport pick-up for confirmed bookings; go to exit door 4 or 5 at the airport and look for the employee holding the green Queen's Garden Resort sign), +66-2-172-6115, [17]. On the banks of a sleepy river, the resort has views towards Lat Krabang Temple. It features high speed wireless internet, big screen TV, pool table, restaurant and beer garden. 1000 baht.

- Regent Suvarnabhumi, 30-32/1 Lat Krabang Soi 22 (hard to find, so take the airport transfer), +66-2-326-4400, [18]. This three-star hotel is very close to the airport, and is practical to spend the night before take off. It has been remodeled recently and looks very clean. Rooms are spacious with comfy beds, TV, a sofa and free WiFi. Service is good too. There's a small shopping center outside, but don't expect a lot for the rest. 1200-1450 baht.

- S.P. Power Lodge, 1473/3 Lat Krabang Rd, +66-2-327-1591(-5). Clean and basic hotel good for overnights while in transit at Suvarnabhumi Airport. If you go to the big green "tours" desk outside departures at Suvarnabhumi Airport, they will do an overnight with breakfast and a two-way transfer for 1000 baht. Good rooms, free water and good internet. Truely only 15 minutes travel time and they do breakfast from 4AM. It is an ideal transit option. 1000-1500 baht. (13.72297753,100.7595943766667)

- Thong Ta Resort, 1888 Lat Krabang Rd, +66-2-326-7258(-9), [19]. This budget hotel is mostly used for stopovers due to its proximity to the airport. A big downer is that many services have extra costs attached to them, including the pick-up from the airport. It does have large, clean and air-conditioned rooms with a small bathroom. No lift, so you have to carry your luggage upstairs. It is situated near a restaurant/bar parade, but there is not that much to do for the rest. The rate includes an American breakfast and free WiFi in lobby and rooms. 1000-1500 baht.

Splurge
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- Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel, 999 Moo 1, Suvarnabhumi Airport (inside the airport itself), +66-2-131-1111, [20]. This is the only hotel that is actually inside the airport compound itself, connected to the main airport terminal by a pedestrian bridge. It's surprising how little airport noise you hear. It has been constructed together with the airport, so it is almost completely new and modern. It is very nice and, by Thai standards, very pricey. 5000-7000 baht.

Contact
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Most of the hotels have free WiFi, but inform before booking. Getting online on the streets is harder, but you can try the shopping malls. There's a Starbucks with paid WiFi at The Mall Bangkapi. If you don't want to pay, there's free WiFi at Assumption University in Ramkhamhaeng Soi 16 (Hua Mark). If you happen to be far out into the 'burbs, Fashion Island also has free WiFi (but you need to register for a username and password; follow the instructions from the manual at their official website [21]).

Get out
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If you keep driving on Ramkhamhaeng Road and continue on Suwinthawong Road, eventually you will end up in Chachoengsao. Here you can find the large Wat Sothon with a busy market in front of it (especially fun in the morning). In the evening, the market magically disappears, leaving no trace of its existence.