SEKAI Explorer Guide Belgrade (2011)

Wiki-travelers are members of a world-wide community and contribute to the Wikitravel (a collaborative travel guide). We are passionate about travel, and about sharing our impressions, tips and knowledge with other. This allows you to make the most out of your vacation, finding and enjoying the most amazing places. No other travel guide can provide you with more interesting places.

This book was created to allow Kindle reader a optimized version of the associated Wikitravel article and is published under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Generic License. For further License information please visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/ and for user contribution please see next page.

Wikitravel is not associated with this book and we assumes no liability and make no guarantee of accurarcy. Use this ebook at your own risk and fun.

Contributor

This book would not be as it is without the great effort of all supporting Wikitravel user. People who are directly involved in this work are:

Alex, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel, bananarama@verat.net, Basco Agency, Bennett Murray, Christian Eaton, Christian Fernandez, cicva, Claus Hansen, Colin Jensen, Craig Mitchell, Daniel, Dave Stanley, David, David Le Brun, D. Guillaime, Dusan Cvetic, Ela apartments, Eric Polk, Evan Prodromou, Goran Obradovic, H Newport, jan, Jan Słupski, Logan, Luka, Marko, Matthew Reames, Milos, Milos Rancic, Nikola Aleksic, Ognjen Blagojevic, Peter Fitzgerald, Pivolav Kouto, pop, Ravikiran Rao, Ricardo, Ryan Holliday, Stefan, Stefan Ertmann, stevan m, Strahinja Grubljesic, Tijuana, Todd VerBeek, Tom Holland, Wikitravel user Are-sea-eye-el, Wikitravel user Beograd Art Hotel, Wikitravel user Dacia, Wikitravel user Doperty, Wikitravel user Eiland, Wikitravel user Ellukka, Wikitravel user EuropeTop100, Wikitravel user Kale, Wikitravel user Modesty Blaise, Wikitravel user Panos, Wikitravel user Pdeniger, Wikitravel user Rsieb, Wikitravel user Serbian language, Wikitravel user Tadej.mursic, Wikitravel user VioletV, Wikitravel user Zepppep, Yann Forget, Zoran Vasić .

Table of Content:

• Understand

• Get in

By plane

Airport transfer

By train

By bus

By car

By boat

By bicycle

• Get around

By bus

By tram

By trolleybus

By minibus

By commuter rail

By taxi

General precautions

By car

Gazela bridge reconstruction

Yellow lanes

Parking

By bicycle

By boat

• See

• Do

Cinemas

Events

Football

Things you must do before you leave

• Learn

• Buy

Clothes and Accessories

Books

Shopping Malls

Hypermarkets

• Eat

International Cuisine

Serbian Cuisine

Fish

Vegetarian

• Drink

Pubcrawls

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Stay safe

Emergencies

Gay and lesbian travelers

• Contact

Stay healthy

• Cope

Embassies and High Commissions

• Get out

Understand

Belgrade is the capital of the Republic of Serbia and is, as such, the country's largest city with a population of about 1.7 million people [2]. It lies on the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. The city has a long history, dating back to the 4th century BC, when the area was settled by Celtic tribes. Later on, it became the Roman city of Singidunum, and relics of that era can still be seen in the city, particularly at Kalemegdan Fortress. From 7th century it is settled by Serbs. As it entered the Byzantine Empire, Belgrade saw many conflicts, including invasion by the Ottoman Empire, until Serbia finally became independent in the 1800s.

After the First World War, Belgrade became the seat of Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (in 1928, the country changed name to Kingdom of Yugoslavia) until its collapse, and it saw violence again in 1999 with NATO's bombing campaign. This often violent history and outside influence has colored much of Belgrade's evolution, which is evident in its culture and architecture. Often caught between the hammer and anvil of clashing empires, the city has taken on a unique character, reminiscent of both Austrian and Turkish influences, with a unique set of Communist elements thrown in as Yugoslavia was expelled from the Eastern Bloc in 1948. Yet, the city has its own spirit, and in it can be found some not only unique features, but also a healthy joie de vivre in its café culture, nightlife and often Mediterranean flavor in its view of life.

Whilst there isn't much by way of ethnic or cultural diversity in Belgrade, in terms of different migrant populations – compared to other European cities – there are minority communities (largely Roma and Chinese), as well as people from other former Yugoslav republics, such as Bosnia, Croatia and Macedonia. There is also a small expat community. Cultural events from round the world, however, are starting to be increasingly common, particularly in the spring and summer months, thanks in no small part to both local arts and culture organizations, as well as foreign embassies/cultural centers. These attract a good deal of local attention, and will help in raising the city's profile as a cultural hotspot.

Belgrade is an energetic city re-discovering its tourism potential. One great new magazine, White City is a must read for anyone who plans on visiting. They call themselves an urban magazine but it's a great lifestyle magazine written in English for both locals and foreigners. It's available at any place that sells magazines in Belgrade.

Get in

By plane

Belgrade is serviced by Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport (IATA: BEG) [3], about 12 kilometers west of the city center, and is the home base of Jat Airways – Serbia's flag carrier airline – which flies to nearly 40 destinations worldwide. Other major airlines fly to Belgrade, such as Air France, Swiss and Lufthansa. Discount and no-frills carriers offer modest number of flights. Wizz Air has direct flights from London, Eindhoven, Memmingen, Gothenburg, Malme, Charleroi, Rome, Stockholm and Dortmund to Belgrade. Germanwings does have a number of less expensive flights to cities across Europe and Norwegian Air is another low cost airline operating to Belgrade. Flyniki [4] also offers low cost flight from and to Vienna. From 15 April 2010 SpanAir started direct flights from Barcelona and Madrid to Belgrade. From 5 May 2010 airBaltic started direct flights from Riga to Belgrade. Other low cost companies such as Ryanair and EasyJet, however, have yet to make their entrance in the Serbian market, which makes the cost of flying to and from the city a bit higher than other destinations. For a full list of carriers see Serbia#By_plane.

The airport does not offer internet access.

Airport transfer

- A good tip is to head straight up to the departure hall upon arrival. The buses leave from there and the taxi drivers there are likely to be more scrupulous and agree to use the meter.

- Line #72 runs twice an hour (quarter past and quarter to each hour) to Zeleni Venac in the city centre, and costs 120 dinars (~€1.20) from the driver or 80 dinars from the shop inside the departure hall that sells food and newspapers. The trip is around 45 minutes.

- A more comfortable city bus option is the E1 minibus, going from the airport to Slavija Square in the city center, stopping at Fontana (Novi Beograd) and the Main Train Station. The buses are comfortable and air-conditioned. The fare is RSD 250 (~€2.50), which is paid on-board; be sure to tell the driver what your destination is before departure. Timetables can be downloaded here.

- If you prefer taxi, order one by phone, after you read General precautions below. Just follow the operators instructions where will the driver pick you up, which is usually at the departures. Alternatively, if you are not able to make the call, go upstairs to the departure section and catch one of the taxis dropping off passengers. They will be happy for the return ride, and the fare should cost around RSD 1000–1300 (€10–13) to the city.

- Avoid taxi service being offered by drivers in the airport terminal (arrivals); that service has a long history of dishonest drivers (protected by the police) ripping off the passengers. They won't use their meters, and will charge many times the normal fare. As of December 2010, new measures are taken in order to help passengers. There should be dispatch officers in yellow vests giving you information and vouchers for the ride. The ride should cost exactly RSD 1500 (~€15) to most parts of the city center, Zemun and Novi Beograd, but for suburb areas it could cost up to RSD 7500 (~€75). There are reports of problems with this system, such as drivers claiming the voucher is only good for one passenger and that you must pay more for additional passengers. Consequently, visitors are still recommended to pre-book a taxi, as the drivers are less inclined to rip tourists off if they are aware the booking can be followed-up later.

By train

The Central Train station is located, not surprisingly, in the city center. All national and international trains stop here. From the station to Republic Square is 1Km (uphill) - about 15 minutes walk.

There are several international train connections from Budapest – Vienna, Budapest – Bratislava – Prague, Zagreb – Ljubljana – Munich, Zagreb – Ljubljana – Zurich and Zagreb – Ljubljana – Venice. Normally, trains should not be too late (seldom more than 1 hour), and usually are very safe. Expect the overnight train from/to Budapest to be overcrowded in summer.

There are also direct (day and night) trains from Bucharest, Kiev, Moscow, Skopje, Thessaloniki, Istanbul (21h) and Sofia and an overnight train from Bar and Podgorica, Montenegro to Belgrade. It arrives early in the morning (around 7). This is a reasonably comfortable train with sleeper cars and nice views (even at night). Upgrade to the cabins with two beds only for 100% improvement. Prices are pretty reasonable. There is also comfortable day IC train from Bar and Podgorica.

For timetables and all other infos check website of national carrier Serbian Railways [5]

By bus

There are over 120 urban and over 300 suburban bus lines. There are also several seasonal lines, including Ada1–Ada5, the five lines which can take you to Ada Ciganlija, and one seasonal, weekend-only line (400) which goes to the summit of Mt Avala. As of July 2007, most of the bus fleet is less than five years old. The area around Zeleni Venac is a major bus hub in the city center, with many lines going to and from Novi Beograd and Zemun stopping there.

Daily transport starts at 4:00 and ends at 00:00. Night transportation is sparse and goes aproximetly every one hour. It is best to ask where and when to use it since some of the night lines are modified versions of the daily ones.

Take note that few regular bus lines (such as 24 or 49) are operated by minibuses, but the tickets for them are the regular ones.

By car

Not for the faint of heart, particularly during peak hours. For those who decide to drive anyway, here are the facts. As in most of Europe you must keep to the right side of the road. Avoid rush hours (8:30–9:30AM, 4:00–6:00PM). Plan you journey if you are going in to the city core, and expect to have hard time finding free parking place on the streets during Friday and Saturday evenings in the center. Garages might be a better choice.

Keep your low beam headlights turned on, during both day and night. Speed limit on the streets of the city is 50 km/h, near schools even less, on the highway is higher. Police is known to wait at places where you might feel comfortable to drive over the limit, but almost never on highway. Take special care while crossing Branko's bridge, and driving on following streets: Bulevar Mihaila Pupina, Jurija Gagarina, Vladimira Popovića, and other big ones. Keep your seat belts fastened. Other passengers must also do the same, even when sitting on the back seat (if there are seat belts installed).

Allowed level of blood alcohol content (BAC) is 0.03%, which is roughly equal to one drink. If you do go by car to drink, consider going back using taxi or Safe driver service, +381-64/1746-411. They will come to pick you up on the small, folding motorcycle, pack it in your trunk, and drive you back home in your car. Their charge is modest, and slightly higher than one-way ride with the taxi (~5€ for <5km, ~7€ for <10km, and ~10€ for >10km).

By boat

There are several tourist boats which offer day and night cruises along the Sava and Danube.

By bicycle

Old Belgrade is pretty hilly and the bicycle infrastructure is scarce, so bicycle transport isn't in wide use. However, New Belgrade and Zemun are relatively flat and offer enough space for bikes to be used. Bicycle tracks link Zemun, Dorćol, Ada Ciganlija, New Belgrade and Bežanijska kosa. There is a bike lift on Brankov Bridge and the ride is free of charge and there are also some 50 bicycle racks around the city.

Riding a bike on the same roads with cars and buses is considered too dangerous, although on smaller streets it can be reasonably safe. Avoid riding on major (multilane) roads. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to bring bikes into public transport vehicles.

Bicycle rentals are available mostly at recreational areas like Ada Ciganlija or Zemun quay. Average price is around 1.5€/hour and 4€/day.

Get around

Belgrade has an extensive public transport network, covering almost all areas of the old city, Novi Beograd, Zemun and other out-lying areas. The network itself consists of a large fleet of buses, trolley buses and trams — 1,000 vehicles to be exact — but even this is not enough, and public transport in Belgrade is always crowded during rush hour.

Tickets for the public transport network cost RSD 50 (~€0.5) when purchased at a kiosk (known locally as a trafika), or RSD 100 (~€1) when purchased from the driver. All tickets must be validated in manually-operated punching machines inside the vehicle. Transport authorities routinely check tickets for validation — particularly at peak hours on major lines — and an infraction can land you with an uncomfortable fine, which sets you back about €30. Those tickets are not valid for Minibuses (E1–E8) and BeoVoz commuter rail.

If you are going to spend an extended period in Belgrade, and intend to use public transport a lot, than you can buy passes that range from 15 days to 1 month. Those must be purchased at the public transport department, and can be somewhat difficult for foreigners to acquire, since the process is long (filling out forms with most of your personal information) and attendants do not speak English.

GSP (ГСП in Serbian Cyrillic; [9]) is responsible for public transportation in the city. There are maps of bus, trolleybus and tram lines on its website. Free maps of entire public transport can be found in tourist offices and here.

By bus

There are over 120 urban and over 300 suburban bus lines. There are also several seasonal lines, including Ada1–Ada5, the five lines which can take you to Ada Ciganlija, and one seasonal, weekend-only line (400) which goes to the summit of Mt Avala. As of July 2007, most of the bus fleet is less than five years old. The area around Zeleni Venac is a major bus hub in the city center, with many lines going to and from Novi Beograd and Zemun stopping there.

Daily transport starts at 4:00 and ends at 00:00. Night transportation is sparse and goes aproximetly every one hour. It is best to ask where and when to use it since some of the night lines are modified versions of the daily ones.

Take note that few regular bus lines (such as 24 or 49) are operated by minibuses, but the tickets for them are the regular ones.

By tram

Trams are mostly old and cramped, with few being restored; some (the green ones) have been donated from the city of Basel, Switzerland, but they are also beyond their serviceable lifespan. There are 12 tram lines in Belgrade, three of which are connected to New Belgrade.

Line 2 is famous in the city with a circular route, running in both directions. The circle is known as krug dvojke (#2's circle) and rings the central city streets.

Line 3 is famous for a beautiful neighborhoods it goes through, particularly Miloš's Konak Park.

By trolleybus

Trolleybuses fleet in big majority consist of old soviet made ZiU-9 and new Belarusian made Belkommunmash vehicles AKSM-321 and AKSM-333, and they run only in Old Belgrade, connecting the city center to east and south-east. There are eight trolleybus lines.

By minibus

There are eight public minibus lines (E1–E8) [10]. Minibuses are all air-conditioned, smaller and generally quicker than regular city buses. However, tickets are bought only inside a minibus and they are more expensive than ordinary ones. Also, in most stops, there is no indication of minibus line routes. This means that one will have to wait for the minibus to come and read the route written on the minibus itself (or just ask the driver).

As of May 2010, minibus fare is RSD 120.

Take note that few regular bus lines (such as 24 or 49) are operated by minibuses, but the tickets for them are the regular ones.

By commuter rail

State-owned BeoVoz commuter rail have six lines connecting Belgrade suburbs with the city:

- Stara Pazova – Belgrade Downtown – Pancevo – Vojlovica

- Ripanj – Resnik – Rakovica – Pančevo – Vojlovica

- Stara Pazova – Belgrade Downtown – Resnik – Ripanj

- Zemun – Belgrade Downtown – Valjevo

- Nova Pazova – Belgrade Downtown – Resnik – Mladenovac

- Stara Pazova – Belgrade Downtown – Mala Krsna

However, it is very unreliable, and often late. Use it only if you must, and be patient. Very patient.

Only one short line (Batajnica – Zemun – Novi Beograd – Belgrade Downtown – Pančevački most) is under control of City of Belgrade, and that one is called BG Voz. City officials are trying to keep the traffic according to schedule which is one train every 30 minutes (15 minutes on rush hour). Timetable is available here [11] (only in Serbian).

By taxi

Taxis are cheap (by European standards) and plentiful, and you can either stop one in the street, or call a taxi company.

General precautions

It is always best if you order taxi by phone (Pink taxi: +381-11/9803, Lux taxi: +381-11/3033-123), since your order will be saved in the operator database, and you will receive discount on the metered price (usually 10%).

Whenever you enter a cab, be sure to chose one with a roof sign indicating it's a city-regulated radio taxi (which carry a little blue sign with the city coat of arms and a number on it). Never take a privately owned cab (the ones with the white marker on the top that does not list the name of the company), since you can pay up to four times the normal price.

Insist that the trip be metered. The only exception is the case when you take taxi from the Arrivals section on the airport, where they have fixed prices. As of June 2010, the flag fall for starting a ride is RSD 140 (€1.5), and the rate is RSD 55 per kilometer (1st tariff) or RSD 70 per kilometer (2nd tariff, at night and weekends). Take note that a normal 'step' on a taximeter is about 3 dinars a time. Tipping taxi drivers is welcome but not required. You only have to pay the amount displayed on the meter.

If you have more that few pieces of luggage ask the driver before you get into the car, if it is necessary to pay anything extra for it. Most of the time they won't charge anything extra, but it is also not unusual to pay around additional RSD 200 (€2).

If you believe that the driver is trying to rip you off, call the operator of that taxi association to check if the price is regular for the specified distance. Afraid of the inspection, they might call back the driver and bring him to reason. Also, ask for a signed bill indicating date, time, start and end destination, price and drivers signature. Write down the number on the blue sign on the vehicle roof, as well as the license plates. Report the incident to city inspection (+381-11/3227-000) and if you are going from or to the airport, report it also to airport inspection (+381-11/2097-373, taxi@beg.aero). If the driver is aggresive towards you, call the police.

By car

Not for the faint of heart, particularly during peak hours. For those who decide to drive anyway, here are the facts. As in most of Europe you must keep to the right side of the road. Avoid rush hours (8:30–9:30AM, 4:00–6:00PM). Plan you journey if you are going in to the city core, and expect to have hard time finding free parking place on the streets during Friday and Saturday evenings in the center. Garages might be a better choice.

Keep your low beam headlights turned on, during both day and night. Speed limit on the streets of the city is 50 km/h, near schools even less, on the highway is higher. Police is known to wait at places where you might feel comfortable to drive over the limit, but almost never on highway. Take special care while crossing Branko's bridge, and driving on following streets: Bulevar Mihaila Pupina, Jurija Gagarina, Vladimira Popovića, and other big ones. Keep your seat belts fastened. Other passengers must also do the same, even when sitting on the back seat (if there are seat belts installed).

Allowed level of blood alcohol content (BAC) is 0.03%, which is roughly equal to one drink. If you do go by car to drink, consider going back using taxi or Safe driver service, +381-64/1746-411. They will come to pick you up on the small, folding motorcycle, pack it in your trunk, and drive you back home in your car. Their charge is modest, and slightly higher than one-way ride with the taxi (~5€ for <5km, ~7€ for <10km, and ~10€ for >10km).

Gazela bridge reconstruction

As of July 2010, one of the capital's major traffic arteries, the Gazela bridge and parts of the E-75 passing through Belgrade are undergoing extensive reconstruction; partial closures cause considerable disruption throughout the city. Reconstruction used to cause heavy congestion on E-75.

Since end of 2010, major works seems to be finished, and bridge is operative with its full capacity. Still, leave some extra time for your commute, especially if leaving for the airport.

Yellow lanes

There are many streets which have yellow lanes. They are reserved for public transport, i.e. buses and taxis, and you are not allowed to use them. The yellow lanes are marked with a yellow line, and are indicated on traffic signs. Some yellow lanes, though, are active only in certain periods of the day, usually during rush hours.

Parking

There are spaces for parking in the city center. There is a large parking garage with 500 spaces under the old palace in the city center, across from the parliament building.

Also, take into consideration that in the center almost all of the parking spaces in the central streets have zones marked with green, yellow or red paint on the street (yellow zone spaces are actually marked orange, to avoid confusion with other marks). You can only stay for 3, 2 or 1 hours, respectively, in those spots. You can pay using the machine usually found near the parking spots, buy the parking ticket at a kiosk or by cell phone (just text your car's license plate number (for example: BG123456) to numbers 9111 (red zone), 9112 (yellow) or 9113 (green)). Every message you send is valid for one hour and, some 5 minutes before the hour has passed, you get a text message telling you that you can send another SMS if you want to extend your parking for the next hour. Of course, this only applies in yellow and green zones, in which you can park for more than 1 hour. After the time is up, you'll have to re-park or risk paying a fine (around €15). All of this only applies on weekdays, from 7AM to 9PM and from 7AM to 2PM on Saturdays. After that (Sa 2PM – Mo 7AM) parking is free.

There are also several public parking garages and parking lots where you can park for an unlimited amount of time during day. Fees are charged on an hourly basis (price varies, usually around €0.5/hour). In some non-zoned areas, you also pay for parking depending on the duration of your stay, and this is paid in cash to the parking attendant.

Detailed information can be found on the Parking Service website [12] available in English and Serbian.

If you park in the city center outside marked parking space your car might be picked up, and you will pay a fine (varies depending of the car size, for regular car around €90). In order to find where your car is you should contact Parking Service.

By bicycle

Old Belgrade is pretty hilly and the bicycle infrastructure is scarce, so bicycle transport isn't in wide use. However, New Belgrade and Zemun are relatively flat and offer enough space for bikes to be used. Bicycle tracks link Zemun, Dorćol, Ada Ciganlija, New Belgrade and Bežanijska kosa. There is a bike lift on Brankov Bridge and the ride is free of charge and there are also some 50 bicycle racks around the city.

Riding a bike on the same roads with cars and buses is considered too dangerous, although on smaller streets it can be reasonably safe. Avoid riding on major (multilane) roads. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to bring bikes into public transport vehicles.

Bicycle rentals are available mostly at recreational areas like Ada Ciganlija or Zemun quay. Average price is around 1.5€/hour and 4€/day.

By boat

There are several tourist boats which offer day and night cruises along the Sava and Danube.

See

Belgrade city core is not too big. Everything between Kalemegdan, Knez Mihajlova street and Skadarska street is best viewed by foot. Other than that, it is recommended to use other means of transportation. Note that many of Belgrade's museums are closed on Monday. It may be wise to check before making a visit.

- Knez Mihailova Street. Main pedestrian street in Belgrade. Crowded during day and night. Mostly shopping and numerous cafes.

- Kalemegdan and Belgrade Fortress. Once important military fortification, it now serves as central park of Belgrade. Accessible from the end of the Knez Mihailova street, it offers beautiful views, especially during sunset. Most part of it is a park and the fortress walls, with several cafes, tennis and basketball courts, museums and observatory. Don't miss to take a look at the confluence of Sava and Danube rivers, and statue of Pobednik (Winner), one of the symbols of Belgrade.

- Republic Square (Main square). Main meeting point in the city (also called "by the horse"), right next to statue of Mihailo Obrenovic (riding a horse), National theater, National museum and Knez Mihailova street. Right place to arrange a meeting.

- Skadarlija (Skadarska street). Pedestrian street filled with restaurants and cafes, most in the spirit of old Belgrade. Live bands playing old Belgrade music could be heard here in the evenings. The street is paved in cobblestone so ladies are advised to avoid wearing high heels, unless highly experienced. Blank-walled buildings on the south side have been painted with impressive 'trompe-l'oeil' paintings to add to the atmosphere.

- Etnographic museum, Studentski trg 13, +381 11 3281 888, [13], Tu–Sa: 10AM–5PM, Su: 9AM–2PM. Permanent exhibition of Serbian costumes, tools, culture and everyday life in past centuries. Temporary exhibitions covering related topics.

- Srpskih vladara street, connecting Knez Mihailova street with The Temple of Saint Sava, dominating the view as you walk towards it. Notice Terazije Fountain and theater Jugoslovensko Dramsko Pozorište, as you wander around.

- The National Museum, closed due to reconstruction. Located at Republic square. Founded in 1844, has more than 400,000 items including Italian Art Collection (230 works) including Titian, Caravaggio, Tintoretto, Paolo Veronese, Canaletto, Tiepollo, Carpacio... French Art Collection (250 paintings) includes Renoir (55 works including 22 paintings), Monet, Degas, Signac, Lautrec, Matisse, Goughen, Utrillo, Pissaro, Corot... Dutch and Flemish Art Collection (120 works) include Vincent van Gogh, Rubens, Rembrandt, Van Goyen, Breughel... Japanase Art Collection has 82 works which include Kunisada, Toyokuni, Hirosige... Cubist Art Collection includes Picasso, Cezanne, Delaunay, Arhipenko, Mondrian... Yugoslav (Serbian) Art Collection includes Paja Jovanovic, Uros Predic, Lubarda... Other Art Collections (German, Austrian, Russian...) include Durer, Gustav Klimt, Kandinsky, Sisley, Marc Chagall, Modigliani, Kassat...

- Belgrade Zoo, Mali Kalemegdan 8. Summer: Daily: 8:00AM–8:30PM, Winter: Daily: 8AM – 5PM. , located inside the Belgrade Fortress

- Belgrade Cathedral (Saborna crkva) or St. Michael's Cathedral, located near Kalemegdan at Kneza Sime Markovica 3. Build from 1837 to 1840, with richly decorated interior. Across the church the building of Patriarchate is located.

- The Temple of Saint Sava. Serbian Largest Orthodox Temple, built from 1935 in several phses. Interior decoration is not yet finished, however visitors have access to the north aisle which is complete and in use. From the quality of the marble- and plaster-work already in place, it will be stupendous when it is finished. It is located near Slavija square, easily accessed from Bulevar Oslobodjenja.

- Church Ružica and Church Sveta Petka are located on Kalemegdan fortress, near observatory (easy to miss, ask for directions). Ružica is first mentioned at 15th century, and destroyed in early 18th century. After that it is rebuild in the present location, and it is the oldest church in Belgrade. It is again destroyed in WWI by Central Powers, and then renewed in 1925. At that time the church gets its guards in person of bronze soldiers, and unusual chandeliers made out of bullet shells, swords and bayonets.

- St. Mark's Church built from 1931 to 1940 located in the Tašmajdan park in Belgrade, near the Parliament of Serbia. There is a small Russian Orthodox church right next to it.

- The Old Royal Palace (Stari dvor), at Nikola Pasic Sqaure, built in 1881, it was residence of Serbian kings, now used as Town Hall.

- The National Assembly of Serbia, located across the Old Royal Palace, at Nikola Pasic Sqaure.

- Tito's Mausoleum and the Museum of the History of Yugoslavia Take trolleybus # 40 or 41 from Studentski Trg or from Kneza Miloša Street in the direction of Dedinje and ask for "Kuća cveća" (House of flowers). Entry is 200 dinars and includes admission to the "House of Flowers," with the grave of Josep Broz Tito; the Museum of the History of Yugoslavia, with changing exhibits, and the "Old Museum," with artifacts from the former Yugoslavia and around the world given to Tito in his years as president. hours="Tu-Su: 10AM-4PM"

- Ivo Andric Museum, Andrićev Venac 8.

- Nikola Tesla Museum, Krunska 51, +381 (0) 11 24 33 886 (info@tesla-museum.org, fax: +381 (0) 11 24 36 408), [14]. Tu–F: 10AM–6PM, Sa–Su: 10AM–1PM. Museum dedicated to the man whom Serbs revere. Tesla made significant contributions to the development of electric engineering, pioneering alternative current (making long-distance high-energy transfers possible), radio (making base work for today's mobile communications) and AC motors (widely used today, e.g. blenders, vacuum cleaners and elevators), among other numerous inventions. Half of this small museum is dedicated to Tesla's personal effects, while the other half contains models of his inventions. There are English-speaking guides who are students from the Engineering Department of the University of Belgrade who can help you understand the sometimes-complicated science.

- The Residence of Princess Ljubica (Konak kneginje Ljubice)

- The White Palace (Beli dvor)

- The Military Museum (Vojni muzej), inside the Belgrade Fortress

- Museum of Roma culture, Ruzveltova street 41-43, [15]. Tu-Su: 11AM-4PM. The museum is situated in a small storage room in a public building in downtown Belgrade. Its walls are covered with photographs and documents in the Roma language. There are temporal exhibitions, different programs and events.

Do

- Ada Ciganlija, a river island on Sava River with an artificial lake in the center of the city. The lake has an 8 km long gravel beach, which is visited by thousands of bathers during the summer. This is a great place for sports and picnics (barbecue is allowed in the allotted space) . It also contains a lot of cafes and restaurants, some of which are opened whole year round. In summer, it is swamped with people wanting to cool down in the water. You may rent bikes or inline skates at several points near the entry to the island. Lanes for pedestrians and bikers are separated. You have over-the-water bungee jumping facility, as well as water skiing. There are terrains for football, basketball, beach volley, golf and tennis. If you are coming from the direction of New Belgrade or Zemun, consider using small boats from Block 70a edge, New Belgrade, which can take you over the river for around €1. During summer season they go every 15 minutes or less, and offer bike transportation as well. Additional facilities:

- Adventure Park is open during summer season (usually from beginning of May until the end of September) +381-64/8210-218, +381-63/1679-787. Site (only in Serbian) [16]. Price for one go through the park is RSD 800 (~€8).

- It is also possible to drive a Segway on small flat track, near cafe Plaža, +381-69/734-929, Site (only in Serbian) [17]. During the promotional period, 15 minute drive is RSD 500 (~€5).

- Try open-air ice skating (during winter), or ski and snowboard simulator (all year round)

- Public Observatory (placed at Kalemegdan fortress). There are four panoramic telescopes installed for daily observations of the city's panorama. This is the unique place in Belgrade for panoramic observations. [18]

- National Theatre. Watch opera, ballet and plays, the main hall is simply amazing. Decorated with gold and artworks.

- Zemun quay, if you have spare time to spend riding a bike, inline skates or walking next to Danube river. For a break just hop on one of the raft bars or restaurants.

- Go bowling, available at:

- Koloseum, Dobanovačka 56, Zemun, +381-65/3888-888, [19]

- Usce shopping mall

- Delta city shopping mall

- Test yourself in ice skating, available during winter months at:

- Sport Center Tašmajdan, Čarlija Čaplina 39, +381-11/2766-667, Timetable [20], RSD 200–300 (~€ 2-3).

- Pingvin (Penguin), Jurija Gagarina 78, +381-11/2178-183, Timetable: [21], RSD 200–250 (~€ 2-2.5).

- Mali Pingvin (Little Penguin), Deligradska 27

- Open-air ice skating at square Trg Nikole Pašića available from 20 December 2010 to 20 January 2010, free of charge

- The great War Island (Veliko ratno ostrvo), a river island at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, for picnics and bird spotting.

- Avala, small mountain (511 m) near Belgrade with 204m Avala Tower at the top. Viewing platform is accessible via a lift with great views of Belgrade and parts of Vojvodina and Šumadija. Entrance fee is around 0.5€ per person.

- Visit a splav (literally: raft) – a barge restaurant located along the Sava and Danube rivers. There are two kinds of "splav". Some are restaurants ( There you can dine and eat with the extra feature of being on the river and enjoying the view) and most are nightclubs. Each "splav" is a nightclub to itself. You can literally club hop all night long. There is no cover charge to get into any of them. Some ultra popular ones may require that you have an invitation or be on the guest list, but if you tell them that you are a foreigner and that you didn't know they'll usually let you in. Women are not required to be on a "guest list". The music played on the barges is highly varied. Everything from Serbian folk music, pop, dance to latest Euro is played. Another really cool thing about the "splav" is that many of them feature live bands. It is really unlike anything you've ever seen before.

- If you have time visit the Belgrade Arena. It is the second largest arena in Europe and the largest in the Balkans. You will definitely be impressed by the architecture. The 2005 European Basketball Championships were held there.

Cinemas

Movies in Serbia are subtitled, not dubbed. Best movie theaters are:

- Kolosej at Usce shopping mall, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina, +381-11/2854-495, 3D projections available

- STER City Cinemas, at Delta City shopping mall, Jurija Gagarina 16, +381-11/2203-400,

- Roda Intermezzo Cineplex, Požeška 83a, +381-11/2545-260

- Tuckwood cineplex, Kneza Miloša 7a, +381-11/3236-517, in the city center, a bit old, and sometimes too loud.

If you prefer theaters in the city core, check also:

- Dom sindikata, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, +381-11/3234-849

- Akademija 28, Nemanjina 28, +381-11/3616-020

Events

- Belgrade Tango Encuentro, 6–11 April 2011 [22]

- Festival of new and improvised music – Ring Ring, 19–23 May 2011 [23]

- Summertime Jazz Festival, around July 2011

- BELEF, Belgrade summer festival, around July–August 2011 [24]

- Belgrade Beer Festival, around August 2011 [25]

- BITEF, Belgrade International Theater Festival, around September 2011 [26]

- Belgrade Flower Festival, around September 2011 [27]

- BEMUS, Belgrade Music Festival, around October 2011 [28]

- Belgrade Jazz Festival, around October 2011 [29]

- Belgrade Tango Festival, around November 2011 [30]

- International Wine Fair, around November 2011, Belgrade Fair

- Rakija fest, around December 2011, festival of traditional Serbian distilled alcoholic beverage [31]

- Street of Open Heart, mini carnival held on 1 January 2012 starting at noon, on streets Makedonska and Svetogorska

- Guitar Art Festival, 8–13 February 2012 [32]

Football

While Begrade isn't home to any of the traditional European football giants, the local derby between Partizan Belgrade[33] and Red Star Belgrade[34] (won both European and International Cup in 1991), also known as the Eternal Derby (Вечити дерби), is considered to be one of the most intensive sport events. Even if you do not support either club, but you enjoy cheering, watching one of the matches between the two sides is still recommended to experience the atmosphere. Due to the intensity of the rivalry, it is not recommended to wear either team's colors outside the stadium during matchdays between the two sides.

Things you must do before you leave

- Spend an afternoon at the Kalemegdan Park and enjoy the sunset at one of the fortress lookouts.

- Eat burek and yogurt for breakfast.

- Spend an evening on the terrace in one of the restaurants in Zemun next to Danube.

- Ride a bicycle, inline skates, run, walk, swim, water ski, bungee jump or just sit and enjoy at Ada Ciganlija lake (during summer).

- Taste adorable hand made Adore chocolates: Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 114A, +381 11 244 4754

- Listen to the old Belgrade music in one of the restaurants in Skadarska street.

- Ride the tram number 2 a full circle.

- Spend an hour sipping coffee or some incarnation thereof at one of Belgrade's cafés.

- Bargain at one of the green markets in the morning.

- Wander the Kosancicev Venac neighborhood preferably on a summer Sunday for a taste of authentic Belgrade.

- Have a rakija at one of the old style buffets.

- Have a meal at on of the old state owned cafés like Beogradsko Prolece or Kafana "?".

- Befriend a Belgrader.

Learn

Serbian courses for foreigners are organized in several places including:

- Concord [35]

- Institute for Foreign Languages [36]

Buy

The currency in Serbia is the dinar (RSD). Money can be exchanged at official exchange offices (locally called menjačnica, often carrying the emblem of the National Bank of Serbia outside the building), which are clearly labeled and they are numerous in central Belgrade, or at the airport. Micko (on Vuka Karadzica street) changes all currencies, including rare ones. There are many ATMs, which accept foreign bank and credit cards without a glitch (note: they are new machines so you won’t have any problems with them). Visa, Visa Electron, Mastercard and Maestro are widely accepted though there are some shops, restaurants and hotels where cards are not accepted (these are very few nowadays). American Express and Diners Club cards are, on the other hand, rarely accepted. Likewise, traveler's cheques are not a well known form of payment in Serbia and cashing them in could present a challenge. The dinar is not widely convertible outside Serbia; it is advisable to re-convert your remaining dinars to Euros or other major currencies before leaving the country. Old Yugoslavian currency can be purchased from street sellers. A 500 billion dinar note makes an interesting souvenir.

The stores work into late hours during work days while on Saturdays they normally close around 15.00 and most of them are not open on Sundays. Therefore, finding an activity for the weekend must be thought of beforehand. Exception to this rule are shopping malls, usually working every day including Sunday until evening hours (usually 10:00 PM).

At night, there are bars, cafés and discotheques that are open, selling cheaply priced drinks. Belgrade is reputed to have some of the best night life in Europe.

Clothes and Accessories

Import taxes make clothes and shoes in Serbia very expensive. Many items from common European chains can be found for 20% less in neighboring Budapest. Still, Belgrade has many flagship stores, mostly located on Knez Mihailova Street and the Terazije square, or the pedestrian zone. They include Max Mara, Hugo Boss, Tommy Hilfiger, Paul & Shark, Lacoste, Zara, Diesel, Miss Sixty, Energie, Tally Weil, Springfield, Emporio Armani, Burberry, Cortefiel, Pedro del Hiero, Cesare Paciotti, Sephora, Levi's and Marella.

There are also many multi-brand stores selling higher class designer clothes and accessories. The most known ones are Artisti (a chain of stores throughout the city) who have the new Gucci, Prada, Bikkembergs, Dior, Tod's, DSquared2, Dolce & Gabbana, Moschino collections. The second store chain is Land featuring brands such as Just Cavalli, D&G, CNC by Costume National, Iceberg. New stores include Marks and Spencer and New Yorker.

The official distributor of Armani Collezioni, Emporio Armani, Armani Jeans, Versace Jeans Couture is a store Alta Moda in Kralja Petra street. Close to Alta Moda are other designer multi brand stores such as Monobrand and EuroModa. Also, there is a shop called MilModa that is oriented to the younger population. Thus, it features Armani Jeans, Missoni Sport, D&G, Etro, Bogner, La Martina and BluMarine constantly, and (from time to time) fashion brands such as DSquared2, Richmond, Prada, creations of John Galliano and many others (they are official dealers). It is situated near St. Sava`s temple.

Multi-brand store concept is catching on very quickly, so it's not going to be a problem finding all types of clothes. Best concept stores are Buzz (Knez Mihailova street), chain of street-wear stores called Urban and Avanguardia.

Searching for accessories, watches: You can also find a variety of brands, from the affordable (Swatch & Fossil) to the most expensive (Breitling for Bentley, Cartier, Boucheron, Rado...). Accessories can be found everywhere but for the hippest you can see Dve Smizle (Millennium Shopping Mall, Knez Mihailova) and Time Zone feat. Kenzo, Christian Lacroix Bijoux, Miss Sixty Jewelry and others (Makedonska Street, next to Politika newspaper headquarters).

Books

Biggest bookstores in Belgrade selling beside Serbian also foreign (mostly english) books are located in the city center. Those are:

- Delfi, inside Student Cultural Center (SKC), Kralja Milana 48, +381-11/2645-783 [37], Mo–Sa: 09AM–10PM, Su: 12AM–21PM

- Vulkan, corner of Sremska and Knez Mihajlova, +381-11/2639-060, Mo–Sa: 09AM–10PM, Su: 12AM–22PM

- Plato, Knez Mihailova 48, +381-11/2625-834 [38]

Vulkan is at the beginning and Plato is at the end of Knez Mihailova street.

Shopping Malls

- USCE Shopping Center is the largest modern shopping center in Serbia and the region, located in New Belgrade, just across the Branko's bridge [39]

- Delta City is the second largest shopping mall in the city, also located in New Belgrade, in Jurija Gagarina street [40]

- The Fair, Sajam is where you have a large choice of clothes to buy pretty cheaply.

- Block 70 is where the Chinese market is located. You can buy dirt-cheap clothing imported from China. Quality is lower.

- Mercator Center [41]

- Immo Center

- Zira Centre, Ruzveltova Street (near New Cemetery) [42]

- BN Bos Outlet (Galenika) [43]

- Merkur Bezanijska Kosa [44]

- Merkur Karaburma [45]

- OTC Novi Beograd. Slang name for this shopping experience is "Buvljak" or flea market as 30 years ago it was that. At present day, hundreds of independed shop owners have a "store" (all brand new goods) under the open sky. You can buy anything and everything there, from any type of clothes like Italian jeans (some are real, some are real good copies from Novi Pazar) to gadgets, to toiletries, to cell phone accessories to the most obscure screw or nail — literaly. Pricing is way less than the malls and they actually have sizes for all shapes and sizes! You could spend a full day at the OTC and not see everything.

Hypermarkets

- IDEA Extra Hypermarket

- Veropoulos Hypermarket (Novi Beograd)

- Tempo Hypermarket

- M - Rodic Megamarket Hypermarket

- Verano Object, Trosarina

- Interex Konjarnik

Eat

Serbs are very proud of their food, which is heavy on grilled meats and sausages, local cheeses and bread. Salads are primarily tomato, cucumber, and onion, or cabbage. Local produce is fresh and organic.

Belgrade has hundreds of restaurants specializing in local cuisine and a few international restaurants. On the whole, prices are cheap compared to Western Europe with main dishes ranging from €5–20 per person.

Most Serbian restaurants offer rostilj, a large plate of various unseasoned grilled meats, or any possible variety of grilled chicken wrapped in bacon and stuffed with cheese. It is possible to order fresh salads, plates of grilled vegetables, crepes, or omelets if you are not carnivorous. Serbian cuisine is famous for its heavy use of varied vegetables, fresh or cooked.

Snacking and eating on the go in Belgrade are easy and cheap. Bakeries – called pekara – are ubiquitous in the city center, and you will find a wide assortment of breads, sweet and savoury pastries, sandwiches and pizza on offer. A snack or light meal of pastry and drinkable yoghurt (similar to kefir) will give you an added healthy boost when walking about the city center. For good taste of Sarajevo pie try Fofa (Cyrillic: Фофа) at Kralja Petra 75. Nice gesture is that Fofa does not charge to pregnant women.

Foods that vegetarians and meat eaters alike should try include kajmak (something between cream cheese and butter) and ajvar, a savory spread made out of roasted red peppers. It is also worth visiting a pijaca (green market) to buy some fresh fruit, vegetables and other grocery items. The farmer's market at Zeleni Venac, close to the Hotel Moscow, is not one of the largest, but it is the one with the least expensive merchandise – in the city. Contained in a newly-built complex, it makes for an enjoyable Saturday morning experience, with the lively hustle and bustle of people milling about and stall-owners trying to attract customers. Depending on the season, an amazing assortment of fruit and veg can be found in farmer's markets, including watermelons, olives, wild mushrooms and fresh figs. Take the time to explore the stalls, and compare the quality and prices of the produce. Most produce at the farmer's markets in Belgrade are organic and fresh from the farmer's gardens brought over daily from the villages surrounding the city. You will notice the particularly good taste of this produce.

There is also pljeskavica, the Serbian version of a hamburger which can be purchased from fast food restaurants. You can find your typical McDonalds, Pizza Hut and KFC, but most of the fast food restaurants in Belgrade are local and sell baked goods, pizza, sandwiches, and pancakes (crepes). Some may go beyond that, selling Turkish delicacies such as baklava, tulumba and other Greek/Turkish treats. Coffee culture in Belgrade is particularly developed, walking about the central areas of the city you will find sprawling terraces and cafés, serving all types of coffee and sweets, particularly vienese type torts and local specialties. Be sure to try Serbian Turkish style coffee, and chestnut purée with whipped cream, a local specialty especially at the republic square (available mostly during winter).

However, the most famous dish in Serbia is cevapcici. Also called Cevape, they are a traditional Serbian food that is also eaten throughout the former Yugoslavia. It consists of different types of minced meat mixed together, and then put on the grill. It is usually eaten with diced onion, and is very tasty.

Do not forget to taste the Karadjordjeva Snicla. It is meat that is filled with kajmak and bacon, and then also grilled. It is another traditional Serbian dish that honors the leader of the first Serbian uprising .

International Cuisine

There are a handful of international restaurants, including Italian, Chinese and Japanese. These are moderately priced to very expensive. Many dine out at:

- Peking restaurant, and Mao Tao is an excellent choice as well for Chinese, also "Makao" good service and wonderful food.

- Dju-Dju, Moon (in Makedonska 30) and Ikki Sushi Bar are perfect places for those who like sushi or other tasty japanese dishes.

- Zapata Vojvode Bogdana 13, +381-11/3809-207, [46] is the best (and pretty much only) Mexican restaurant in town

- Cosy, Makedonska 30, the best French Café with excellent food and prices.

- Casa, Mekenzijeva 24, +381-11/4460-866 and newer Casa Nova Gospodar Jovanova 42a, tel: +381-11/3036-868, [47], offer Italian menu with main dishes ranging €8-15. Recommendation: Sicilian wheel.

- Spaghetteria Trag, Đorđa Jovanovića 2, +381-11/3037-565, offer mostly Italian pastas at affordable prices ranging €5-10 for main dish. Recommendation: Skalopina steak.

- Caruso, Terazije 23/8, +381-11/3248-037, [48], 8th floor restaurant, recommended for memorable view of Terazije, river Sava and summer sunset. €5-10 for main dish.

- PizzaPizza, Браће Крсмановић 3 next to the Brankov bridge, +381-11/2622-812, [49], for good pizzas (€3-5).

Serbian Cuisine

For those interested in what would be a typical Serbian meal, check out these places:

- Dačo, Patrisa Lumumbe 49, +381-11/2781-009, offering Serbian causine, extensively, cosy, and a bit kitschy decorated as old style Serbian house. Main dishes range €8-15. Recommendation: Monastery steak, or any other specialty.

- Skadarlija is a pleasant street filled with Serbian and Italian restaurants, not to be missed by gourmands. It is famous for its old restaurants, some of which have been around for over 100 years. Most of the restaurants have string orchestras which play a selection of traditional and modern Serbian songs, like in Lagum 33, Simina 33.

- ? (that's what it is called), Kralja Petra 6, traditional Serbian cuisine. Good place to try ćevapčići sa kajmakom (grilled minced meat with cream), or if you have a strong stomach and will to experiment, you might choose (in translation): young bull's sex glands, bowels or glands.

Some restaurants are famous not only by the quality, but also the quantity of the meals:

- Malo korzo, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 468, +381-11/419-922 [50], cheap but warm restaurant offering barbecue and other Serbian specialities in enormous portions.

- Srbija, located actually 15km from Belgrade downtown, on Ibar highway (M-22), just after Tilia forrest (Lipovačka šuma), +381-11/8340-055, [51]. If you happen to pass that way, or you are willing to spend half-hour drive from center to find it, it is recommended to visit. Decent restaurnant build between village houses, with kind personell and both tastful and oversized dishes.

Fish

If you prefer a delicious fish meal try fish gourmet restaurants:

- Mika Alas, Stari Obrenovački put 14 (close to Ada Ciganlija), +381-11/2544-448, [52]. Be sure to try their delicious fish soup "riblja corba" and their very own house specialty, "smudj romanov", Pike Perch fillet in white wine cream sauce. Excellent food for an acceptable price.

- Ivanjica, Stari obrenovački put 8 (also close to Ada Ciganlija), +381-11/3551-938, +381-63/8383-439.

- Šaran, Kej Oslobođenja 53 (Zemun quay), +381-11/2618-235. Restaurant by the river, terrace available during summer months, excellent atmosphere, guest cooks from different countries, live old Belgrade music.

Vegetarian

Vegetarijanska Gostionica "Joy of the Heart", Svetogorska 18 (center), +381-11/334-5181. Not your typical Serbian meal - as they serve mostly ayyurvedic food for a decent price. Also serves fruit shakes and other non-alcoholic beverages.

Drink

Despite the warnings of the US.CDC[53], tap water in Belgrade is perfectly safe. There is a wide range of bottled waters on offer in grocery stores, supermarkets, and kiosks.

Serbs love beer, and it is possible to buy a variety of domestic beers such as Jelen, Lav, MB, Pils... along with a few imported beers, at very cheap prices. The domestic beers are quite decent. Made in Serbia beers also include Heineken, Amsteel, Tuborg, Stella Artois, and Beck's. Belgrade holds a Beer Festival annually in August.

Culture Tip: How to toast, Serbian style

Like everywhere, Serbs love to toast when in good company, whether it's in a pub or in the home with friends. When toasting in Serbia, it is expected that you look your friends at the table directly in the eyes whilst clinking glasses as a sign of respect. Say 'Živeli!' (cheers!) to everyone and take a sip. Repeat as necessary, and enjoy a night out in Belgrade!

Local wines can be good, although more expensive tends to mean more drinkable, and many of the less expensive bottles are less than satisfactory. The national alcoholic drink is rakija, a Serbian brandy that is very strong and makes a good souvenir.

For the sober crowd, Belgrade has blueberry, raspberry, tomato, peach, apple, strawberry, and any other kind of juice you can think of.

All cafés serve the usual continental coffees, such as espresso and cappuccino. However, regular coffee comes in the form of Turkish coffee, not filtered coffee. If you want a filtered coffee, you need to specify this when ordering, and not all coffee shops have it. Also very popular is whipped instant coffee, commonly referred to simply as 'Nes' (as in, Nescafé). A cafe called Mani Prag (across from the Hotel Prag) is thought by some to offer the best "Serb Coffee" in the world.

There are a couple of places worth visiting if you are a fan of cafe culture. The street best known for its trendy cafes is definitely Strahinjića Bana. On this street, cafes are full even on weekdays. The best atmosphere is on Friday evenings when the trendy youth of Belgrade descend to enjoy the music and each other. Out of numerous cafes, the best ones are:

- Insomnia,

- KontraBar, (no alternative place, there are only yuppies and it is quite expensive for Beograd)

- Buongiornio (also a pastry shop),

- Nachos,

- Veprov Dah (a scottish pub),

- Duomo (Italian and Mediterranean restaurant and cafe),

- Ipanema and

- Cosy, a new French Café with excellent ambiance in Makedonska 30 etc.

The second cafe zone is Obilićev Venac (a street parallel to Knez Mihailova). The best cafes there are:

- Iron,

- Jelena,

- Zu Zu's,

- Irish pub,

- Simbol and many others.

Third cafe zone (also a going out zone) is quay next to hotel Yugoslavia in Zemun. On the quay are numerous river boats (splavovi), many of them are cafes, restaurants and clubs.

Other places worth visiting:

- The Three Carrots Irish pub bills itself as the first Irish pub in Belgrade, quite easy to miss, just turn left at the bombed out buildings coming up from the train station and walk on the left hand side of the road.

- The Black Turtle II Pub, Kosančićev venac 30 (near Kalemegdan), +381-11/3286-656 [54]. Well-known for beer mixed with lemon and blueberry syrup, as well as memorable river view at summer sunset, if you are among the lucky ones who manage to get one of the few outdoor tables. If you care about the beer or the atmosphere more than the view, check other Black Turtle Pubs.

- Tijuana - Latin Cocktail Bar in Belgrade, [55], call Victor: +381637108833 // or // Dennis: +38162251494, If you are searching for a nice looking cafe to impress your latest hot date, look away now, but if you want an original experience as far as Belgrade’s nightlife goes, then you should check out Tijuana.

Pubcrawls

- THE Belgrade Pub Crawl. [56] phone="+381 61151 6959" Meeting in front of McDonald's Terazije (across the street of Hotel Moscow) in the city center from 9:00 to 9:15 P.M. Wednesdays to Sundays. They take you to a variety of hidden-underground bars and pubs in town and ends at a night club. It is a good way to sample what the nightlife in Belgrade is like avoiding the tourist traps. Reservations needed 2 hours in advance.

Sleep

Budget

Several hotels have opened up in Belgrade recently, mainly in the center of the city. Some are only open in the summer, but a couple function all year round. There are also several hotels right around the train station that are relatively cheap (€30-40) however the quality varies. Just walk around and you should find one with empty rooms without much difficulty.

- Backpackers' Lounge Hostel, Cika Ljubina 103, +381 11 2627 483 (backpackerslounge@gmail.com), [57]. Clean, comfortable, safe, friendly. Three bedrooms are dormitory style. Two common rooms,kitchen, three bathrooms . Great atmosphere, free internet , free tea / coffee all the time and much more... Staff fluent in English and very willing to help. Lockers under the bed for gear that can fit an entire frame backpack. Located on third story of a building. Elevator is eighty years old and has warnings like 'use this and die' printed on it but it still works.

- Beli grad, Nemanjina 42, +381 11 3612126 or +381 64 5471320 (hostelbg@gmail.com), [58]. Hostel has a very central location on the Slavija Square, in Nemanjina Street, just beside McDonald's restaurant. The railway and bus station are easy to reach and the airport bus terminal is just across the street. The hostel has one 8-bed room, one 6-bed room and one private room with a French bed. All rooms are air-conditioned and dispose of personal belongings cabinets and reading lights. A spacious bathroom and a separate toilet are at disposal to guests. A kitchen is available for guests' use, as well. Wireless internet in all rooms. On check-in, guests will be given bed linen and two towels that they will return on check-out. Tax is included in the price of accommodation.

- Belgrade Eye Jostel, Krunska 6b, +381 64 2588 754 (belgradeeye@gmail.com), [59]. A large family house turned into a hostel that offers a surprising degree of comfort at very low rates (starting at €10). Private rooms are available as well as dorms.

- Chillton Hostel, Kataniceva 7, +381 11 344 18 26, SMS: +381 62 677 004 (chilltonhostel@gmail.com), [60]. Hostel is in the "Belgradest" part of Belgrade - Vracar, 3 stops from the train station with bus 83. Private rooms and dorms, air conditioners in all the rooms.

- Crossroad hostel, Gospodar Jevremova 41, +381 63 252-529 (office@crossroad-hostel.com), [61]. It is in the tourist core of the city, in a quiet part but on the very crossroads of the four most important tourist city areas. Prices starting at €10.

- Ela apartment, Tosin bunar 13, +381 69 113 1345 (office@bgapartmanizemun.com), [62]. Two identical apartments each with a possibility of lodging 1-3 in each. Offering personal and secure accommodation on privately owned premises. Fully equipped kitchen and on-suite bathroom. Private parking, transport to and from the airport. Furthest bus station on a 5 minutes walk.

- Friends Hostel, Oblakovska 11 (Autokomanda), +381 11 369 00 49, +381 63 166 87 75 (friendshostelbelgrade@gmail.com), [63]. Hostel is located in the city center, accommodation in double bed, Four bedrooms or six bedrooms. All rooms have cable TV, security box, free coffee and tea, and wireless internet.

- Green Studio Hostel, Karadjordjeva 69/42 (From the bus station, you just cross the street with the trams and take a right and look for number 69, it is about a 20 second walk. From the train station take a left out of the door; keep walking across the next intersection into the park. From the park you should cross the street with the trams and look for number 69. About a minute walk.), +381 11 263 36 26 (greenstudiohostel@gmail.com), [64]. Owned and run by fellow backpackers and locals, prices start at €10 and include everything from laundry, computer access, high speed wireless internet, to beer and rakija, coffee and tea. In the center of the city, on the banks of the river, and very close to the bus and train station, has dorms, large private rooms, and a large open common room always alive. All facilities work and are accessible 24 hours, as well as no check out times - sleep late!

- Hostelche hostel, Kralja Petra 8, +381 11 2637793, cell phone +381 63 8379461 (hostelchehostel@gmail.com), [65]. New, cosy, clean place. They have free: sheets, towels, laundry, games, books, 24–hour recepcion, internet, Wi-Fi, welcome drink, coffee, tea. And much more...

- Happy hostel, Kralja Milutina 28, +381 64 1176 075 414 (happyhostel@yahoo.com), [66]. Happy Hostel is at the corner with Nemanjina street, on the Slavija square. The following facilities are included in the price:linen and towels, washing machine and dryer, hair dryer, iron and ironing board, TV set with DVD player and stereo, cable internet, wireless internet, residence tax. We will be there for you 24 hours a day, seven days a week, making sure you’re feeling secure as well as having fun! Prices starting at €12

- Hostel Captain, Kapetan Misina 16, +381 11 218 18 19, Mobile: +381 65 243 9596 (office@hostelcaptain.com), [67]. The leading hostel in Belgrade with its location in the city center. Provide a unique experience which offers safe, comfortable budget accommodation and great facilities: including bar, internet, chill out areas and of course a great atmosphere where is possible to meet other like minded people. Prices starting at €10.

- Hostel Jelica Milanovic, Krunska 8, [68]. A highschool campus in the middle of town which functions as a hostel in summer, between June, 20th and August, 30th. Depending of category of rooms, prices are €9 or €11. It's also a biggest and one of the cheapest hostel in Belgrade with big variety of special services and comfortable rooms.

- Hostel Yellowbed, Visnjiceva 3, +381 11 2628 220 (office@yellowbed.net), [69]. At a very heart of Belgrade. You are about to get-in-known Belgrade within five minutes from our hostel. And if you desire to go out into the town, we'll provide you with all information you need. Prices from €10 + taxes.

- Hotel Center, Gavrila Principa 46a, +381 11 361 96 86 (hostelcentar@sezampro.rs). Hostel is in the city center. 100 m far from main bus and train station. Hostel capacity is 30 beds on 3 floors with 10 beds on every floor.2 x double rooms, 3 x 3 bed rooms, 3 x 4 bed rooms, 1 x 5 bed rooms. Rooms include: air conditioning, 2 SAT-TV, computer LCDTFT 22” (internet access), fax/telephone. Accommodation, bed (+tax+residence tax+insurance) €19.8–23, breakfast €3, hb (breakfast and dinner) €6. There are discounts for groups, longer stay.

- Hotel Central Station, Karadjordjeva 87, +381 11 268 50 67 (office@hostelcentralstation.com), [70]. In the city center Central Station is situated in a building regarded as a cultural monument and a city landmark. Located opposite to the Central Railway and Central Bus Station. The building has accommodated guests since the beginning of the 20th century. In a completely redecorated and refurbished 150m2 space the hostel offers accommodations in twin-bed, four-bed, 6, 8, 10 bed-rooms. Guests have free internet access, a living room, a safe and secure storage room and gentlemen's and ladies bathrooms at their disposal. All rooms are air conditioned. Prices starting at €12.

- In Old Shoes Hostel, Brankova 18, +381 11 218 36 50, Mobile/SMS: +381 64 136 65 05 (info@inoldshoes.com), [71]. In Old Shoes Hostel is located just 10 min. walking distance from Main Train and Bus Station and 5 min. from the core of Belgrade. Great staff, very good location, free WiFi internet access, free maps, free coffee and tea, cable TV, air conditioning, 2 and 4 beds private and dormitory rooms, prices starting at €10, taxes included.

- Hostel MANGA, Resavska 7, +381 11 324 38 77, +381 64 261 05 09, [72]. New hostel in a 3-floor house, located in the city centre, 1x10, 2x4, 1x1 rooms, 24hrs reception, private yard, air conditioning, free wifi, free lockers, free towels, free coffee & tea, free maps, cable TV and DVDs, 24hrs supermarkets in the surrounds. Train station is just 2 stops away (or 10 minutes walking). Beds from €10.

- Star Hostel, Cara Urosa 37, +381 62 224646 (hostel_star@yahoo.com), [73]. air-conditioned, safe-lockers backpack size, free internet + WIFI, free coffee and tea, laundry, custom guided maps, big common room with movie collection, xbox, book exchange, very friendly staff, very knowledgeable about Belgrade and are there all the time for all your travel needs. Prices in between €10 and €12, private for 35.

- Sun Hostel, Novopazarska 25, +381 64 11 21 040 (hostel.sun@gmail.com). Located in "Vracar" part of Belgrade with great transit connections to the city center. May accommodate up to 20 people (4, 6, 10 bed in rooms), very comfortable rooms, air-conditioned, safe-lockers backpack size, two cpu with free internet, very friendly staff. Prices are between €10 to €19, depend of the room.

- Three Black Catz Hostel, Cika Ljubina 7/49, +381 11 2629826 (reservationtbc@gmail.com), [74]. A flat turned into a hostel. Prices for dormitory; €10–11. Amazing welcome - was handed a beer from the owner as we sat down for a chat! 4-star free laundry service. Nice intimate place — neighbors drop in for a chat — no isolated backpacker ghetto here!

- UNI Hostel, (info@uni-turs.com), [75]. The UNI Hostel is in downtown Belgrade. It is five minutes away from the train and bus station and 20 minutes away from the airport. In addition it is only one minute away from trolley loop, line 7l, which stops at the train and bus station. Price starts from RSD 800 (8-bed-room) excl. BTO/Tax (RSD 114).

Mid-range

- Mr. President Design Hotel, [76]. This is a nice, new and modern hotel. It is located across the street from the city's train station. It has 61 modern web connected rooms with all of the modern conviences. The average room for 2 people cost about €100 per night.

- Best Western Hotel Sumadija. Located in modern business part of Belgrade, Banovo Brdo. Belgrade city center is 7.5 km, Belgrade Fair 2 km and Belgrade airport is 22 km away.

- Hotel Astoria. Side street just opposite the railway station. Excellent value at €61 a double including private facilities and breakfast. Apartments available. Many thoughtful extras. Bistro restaurant good menu, good value. A short 15 minute walk to the centre of town, uphill along Balkanska Street to Terazije Square.

- Hotel Rex, [77]. Very nice business-type hotel close to the train station, with 24 hour reception and friendly english speaking staff. Price around €60.

- Studio APOLLO 011, Suboticka 23, +381 63 1161982, +381 61 1558752 (office@apollo011.in.rs), [78]. Located in pleasant surroundings of Suboticka street, at Belgrade municipality Zvezdara. Studio is only 10 minutes drive from St. Sava’s Dome, Vracar Plato and centre of the city. It is connected with city centre, New Belgrade, Fair and other parts of the city, with bus, trolleybus and tram networks. It is tidy, comfortable and pleasurable place that offers a high category hotel comfort for reasonable price.

- LifeDesign Hotel, +381 (0)11 35 34 300, [79]. In the very heart of the city, on the street known for centuries as the place of first encounter with Belgrade, is where this contemporarily designed hotel is situated. Newly built and modernly designed, the LifeDESIGN Hotel will charm you with its elegant architecture, its location that emanates the spirit of the Balkan capital. A four-star hotel located in commercial and cultural center of the city.

- Beograd Art Hotel, +381 (0)11 3312000, [80]. checkin: 1400; checkout: 1200. The Beograd Art Hotel in Belgrade is ideally located in the heart of the city on Knez Mihailova Street, a charming pedestrian street with numerous shops, providing business and leisure travellers with a great base in the Serbian capital.With 55 uniquely designed rooms and suites, bar, lounge bar, restaurant and 2 meeting rooms, Beograd Art Hotel will meet all the specific needs of modern life and business people. e-mail: info@belgradearthotel.com. as of EUR 110.

Splurge

- Hotel Evropa, Terazije 2, +381 11 36 26 017 (office@hotelevropa.rs), [81]. Located in a historic building in the heart of Belgrade close to the National Assembly building. It offers luxuriously appointed, air-conditioned accommodation with free Wi-Fi. Guests can benefit from free access to the spa centre, which features a sauna, a Turkish bath and a jacuzzi.

- Hotel Townhouse 27 Belgrade, Marsala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 20 22 900 (hotel@townhouse27.com), [82]. A new and exclusive four star boutique hotel has been opened in Belgrade, Serbia. TOWNHOUSE 27 – oasis of calm, comfort, privacy, and elegance in downtown Belgrade.

- Crystal Hotel Belgrade, Internacionalnih brigada 9, +381 11 7151000 (info@crystalhotel.rs), [83]. This brand new boutique hotel is located in the old town with a beautiful view of St. Sava Temple, the largest Orthodox church in the world. It has 44 deluxe rooms with high speed Internet, pay-tv and spacious rooftop terrace overlooking entire city is planned for the summer.

- Balkan Hotel, Prizrenska 2, +381 11 36-36-000, [84]. A four-star hotel located in the heart of Belgrade, overlooking the Terazije square. Refurbished in 2006., with its modernly equipped rooms and international restaurant Orient Express, Balkan Hotel represents a base for a modern business traveler and a complete comfort for leisure travels.

- Moskva, Balkanska 1, +381 11 2686-255, [85]. A landmark building which was remodeled in 2009 and features small but opulent rooms with wi-fi and satellite TV. The staff apparently has been overhauled as well after previous poor reviews on that front. Counts a number of celebrities amongst its guests from its eastern bloc days.

- Aleksandar Palas, Kralja Petra 13–15, +381 11 3305-300. A boutique hotel located near the Knez Mihailova pedestrian street and the Kalemegdan fortress.

- Hyatt Regency Belgrade, Milentija Popovica 5, +381 11 301 1234, [86]. In New Belgrade some 9 kilometers from the airport.

- Continental Hotel Beograd, Vladimira Popovica 10, +381 11 220 4204. Prefix Inter has now been dropped. Located in New Belgrade, and connected thru a passageway with the Sava congress center.

- Admiral Club Beograd, Venizelosova 31, +381 11 303 8260. In the oldest part of Belgrade “Dorćol”, near The National Theatre and famous bohemian part “Skadarlija”. In addition to the 17 elegantly appointed rooms and suites, the Hotel has unique “Glass Garden”, parlor and pastry - coffee shop.

- In Hotel Belgrade, Bulevar Arsenija Carnojevica 56, +381 11 310 5300, [87]. In New Belgrade and some 9 kilometers from the airport, 4 kilometers from the city centre, 1 kilometer from the Sava Centre, and 200 m from the Belgrade Arena.

Stay safe

Overall, Belgrade is a very safe city, but like anywhere, you should always keep money, mobile phones, travel documents and other valuable personal items in secure places. Pickpockets are known to operate in public transportation, and other crowded places so never wear a backpack or purse on your back and make sure that you have your wallet in one of your front pockets. If you own a car, it is preferable to have a security system. Traffic laws are usually observed although nervous drivers can change lanes suddenly or make dangerous turns when avoiding traffic during rush hour. The taxi drivers are notorious for swerving in and out of lanes. Pay close attention to the traffic signals as a pedestrian.

Also try to avoid getting into conflicts. If you are staying out late in a bar or a club, there is always a small chance that someone will try to pick a fight especially if you are in a group and a single guy is showing hostility. That is a trap by local thugs looking for a brawl. That is not because you are a foreigner: it is just the "law of the streets": anyone can be the target. Just ignore them and walk away no matter what they say or do. The chances that this will happen are very low, but stay alert. Do not try to make fun of the locals in your native language. Almost everyone has at least a basic understanding of English and is familiar with foul words and curses.

Emergencies

In case of an emergency, call 92 (police), 93 (fire) or 94 (ambulance). Always carry the phone number and an address of your embassy with you. In case of injury or illness, the place to go is the Urgentni centar (Emergency center), Pasterova 2 of the Clinical Center of Serbia. Be aware that not all medical facilities have personnel that English or other foreign languages. Consult the embassy of your country if possible.

Pharmacies on duty 24/7:

- Prvi maj, Kralja Milana 9, +381-11/3344-923

- Sveti Sava, Nemanjina 2, +381-11/2643-170

- Zemun, Glavna 34, +381-11/2618-582

Gay and lesbian travelers

In Serbia, including Belgrade, violence against gays and lesbians can occur. Gay and lesbian travelers should be discreet. As a rule, public displays of affection between two people of the same sex are likely to be met with verbal abuse and/or physical violence. There are several gay bars and clubs all around the city and they tend to get quite full. Be cautious when arriving at or leaving such clubs. Often there are security personnel guarding the immediate entrance. There are quite a few LGBT parties organized periodically by various organizations and at different locations, such as Loud and Queer events. Avoid football fan crowds at all costs if you think you may be a target because of your appearance which tend to be extremely violent and homophobic. There are several LGBT organisations at your disposal in Belgrade. Find them on sites such as Queeria, Gay-Serbia.com, Labris, etc. Chatting to the LGBT community on Gayromeo.com will help to identify the main hotspots. Search on Facebook and FourSquare.com information on current venues including (LGBT bars) 24, Espeho, Fenix, Mystic, Smiley; (gay-friendly bars) Cafe Downtown; (gay-friendly restaurants) Supermarket and Zaplet; and (gay clubs) Apartman and Pleasure.

GAY BARS

24, Kajmakcalanska 22 (Vracar, Belgrade), on corner with Branka Krsmanovica, buzz for entry; Tel +381 (0)60 707 0777

Espeho, Cetinska 4 (Stari Grad, Belgrade), basement bar off junction with Hilandarska and Makedonska streets, entrance located in side alley, buzz for door entry

Fenix, Patrijarha Varnave 13 (Vracar / Slavija), close to Sveti Sava Temple, Belgrade, Tel +381 (0)64 824 6873

Mystik, Cumiceva 2, first floor, off ramp from Nusiceva Street (near Terazije) (Stari Grad, Belgrade)

Smiley, in alley off Terazije 5 (Stari Grad, Belgrade) (open 15-01h) opposite Palata Albanija

GAY-FRIENDLY BARS

Cafe Downtown, Cika Ljubina 7 close to Republic Square (Stari Grad, Belgrade) (open 09-00h), Tel +381 (0) 11 621 614

GAY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS

Supermarket, Visnjiceva 10, Upper Dorcol (Stari Grad), 11000 Belgrade, Tel +381 (0)11 291 0941

Zaplet, Kajmakcalanska 2, Vracar, 11000 Belgrade, Tel +381 (0)11 240 4142 (closed Mondays)

GAY CLUBS - Friday/Saturday nights only

Apartman, Karadjordjeva 43 (third floor) next to Branko Bridge, (Stari Grad) 11000 Belgrade, Tel +381 (0)63 198 1606

Pleasure, Kneza Milosa 9 (in courtyard next to Turkish Embassy), (Stari Grad) 11000 Belgrade

Contact

International telephone code for Serbia is 381. Most cities in Serbia and mobile operators have 2-digit area code. There is only one area code for Belgrade and that is 11. Typical land-line phone number in Belgrade +381-11/xxx-xxxx. Typical mobile phone number is +381-6x/xxx-xxxx. From Serbian land line phone, use 00 prefix for international calls (e.g. 0041-20/xxx-xxxx for Amsterdam, Netherlands), and prefix 0 for calls inside Serbia but outside your area (e.g. 021/xxx-xxxx for Novi Sad, Serbia or 06x/xxx-xxxx for Serbian mobile). If you dial inside the same area, there is no need to use the prefix (just dial xxx-xxxx).

Basically, the whole city is covered with mobile networks of all three Serbian operators. It is easy to buy and charge cheap pre-paid numbers at the kiosks around the city. If you use 064 pre-paid number, use *100# to check the credit, for 063, use *121#, for 061, use *123#.

There is a number of red-colored payphones across the city, operated by telephone cards available at the kiosks.

Free wireless access is available at Student park in Belgrade center. Mobile operators offers pre- and post-paid wireless Internet packages.

Stay healthy

When it snows in winter, the streets are covered in sleet the next day, so be careful when walking. The Košava, a notorious Belgrade wind, may give you a cold more quickly than you would expect, particularly in winter - take care and dress appropriately.

Also be mindful of the high number of stray animals roaming streets, particularly dogs, even in the city center. Whilst it is very rare that they demonstrate outward signs of illness or aggression, err on the side of caution and avoid coming in physical contact.

Pharmacies – called 'apoteka' – are found throughout the city center. Look for lit green crosses on building façades. Some, such as the one in Kralja Milana Str, are open twenty-four hours. These will carry a range of prescription medicines, as well as over-the-counter products like pain killers and vitamin supplements.

Cope

There are dozens of Gyms around the city, every neighborhood has at least one. Prices range (so as quality) €20–50 per month, or a bit less for 12/16 visits.

In case you need to fix your umbrella you may do that in the last remaining umbrella service in town in Visnjiceva 4.

Embassies and High Commissions

- Canada, Kneza Milosa 75, +381 11 306-3000 (bgrad@international.gc.ca), [88]. M-F 8AM–4PM.

- * Japan, Genex Apartments, Vladimira Popovica 6, +381 11 3012800~4 (fax: +381 11 311-8258), [89].

- Macedonia, Gospodar Jevremova 34, +381 11 328 4924 (belgrade@mfa.gov.mk), [90].

- Mexico, Ljutice Bogdana 5, Dedinje, Savski venac, +381 11 367 4170, [91].

- Poland, Kneza Miloša 38 11000 Belgrade, +(381)(11)2065 301 (belgrad.amb.sekretariat@msz.gov.pl), [92].

- Switzerland, Bircaninova 27, +381 11 3065 820, [93].

- United Kingdom, Resavska 46, +381 11 2645 055, [94].

- United States, Kneza Miloša 50 (The Consular Section is co-located with the rest of the U.S. Embassy Belgrade at 50 Knez Milosa St. If you are facing the front of the Embassy from Knez Milosa, the entrance to use for consular services is the right hand door, to the right of the American flag. (There is a back entrance to the Embassy on Sarajevska Street, but it is not open to the public.)), +381 11 361 9344, [95].

Get out