SEKAI Explorer Guide Hong Kong (2011)

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Table of Content:

• Understand

Orientation

History

People

Climate

Books

Film and cinema

When to visit

Electricity

• Districts

Kowloon

New Territories

Lantau

Outlying Islands

• Get in

Immigration reminders

By plane

Hong Kong International Airport

Airport Express

Bus

Taxi

In-City Airport Check-In

Shenzhen International Airport

Macau International Airport

By helicopter

By boat

By ferry

By ship

By land

By bus

By bicycle

By train

Hong Kong Island

By boat

By bus

By metro

By train

• Get around

Octopus card

By train

By tram

By bus

By ferry

By taxi

By car

By bicycle

Bicycles on Public Transport

By escalator

Talk

• See

Itineraries

Guided walk

Victoria Peak

Horse racing

Local life

Traditional heritage

Museums

Nature

Theme parks

Seeing different sides of Hong Kong by Public Transport

Bus

Tram

Avenue of Stars and A Symphony of Lights

• Do

Festivals

Exploring

Music

Beaches

Swimming Pools

Sailing

Hiking and Camping

Gambling

• Learn

Cantonese

Work

• Buy

Costs

Tipping

Shop

Shopping Malls

Streetmarkets

Discounts and haggling

Supermarkets and Convenience Stores

• Eat

Cost

Etiquette

What to eat

Dim sum 點心

Siu Mei 燒味

Congee 粥

Noodles 麵

Tong Sui 糖水

Tea time 下午茶

Street food

Sea Food 海鮮

Exotic meats

Where to eat

• Drink

Tea

Alcohol

Tobacco

• Sleep

• Stay safe

Crime

Legal matters

Traffic

Corruption

Hiking

Natural disasters

Stay healthy

Find a doctor

Tap Water

Pollution

Respect

Manners and Etiquette

Business

Culture

Dress

Politics

Gay and Lesbian Hong Kong

• Contact

Post

Internet Access

Telephone

Mobile phones

Landline phones

• Cope

Consulates

• Get out

Understand

While legally part of China, Hong Kong is secluded from mainland China as a dependency with a high degree of autonomy. The former colony has its own laws, separate immigration controls, financial system and is officially bi-lingual (Cantonese and English). It also enjoys western-style freedoms unheard of in mainland China.

Orientation

Hong Kong Island is the island that gives the territory Hong Kong its name. Although it is not the largest part of the territory, it is the place that many tourists regard as the main focus. The parade of buildings that make the Hong Kong skyline has been likened to a glittering bar chart that is made apparent by the presence of the waters of Victoria Harbour. To get the best views of Hong Kong, leave the island and head for the opposite Kowloon waterfront.

The great majority of Hong Kong Island's urban development is densely packed on reclaimed land along the northern shore. This is the place the British colonisers took as their own and so if you are looking for evidence of the territory's colonial past, then this is a good place to start. Victoria was once the colony's capital but has been rebranded with a more descriptive name, Central. Here you will find the machinery of government grinding away much as it always has done, except Beijing, not London, is the boss that keeps a watchful eye. Seek a glimpse of government house (香港禮賓府) which was formerly home to 25 British governors and is now the residence of the man they call Bow Tie, the Chief Executive Sir Donald Tsang. Nearby, the Legislative Council (LegCo) continues to make the laws that organise the territory.

Leading up from Central is the Escalator and the Peak Tram. The famous escalator passes through the hip district of Soho and takes you into the residential neighbourhood known as the Mid-Levels because it is neither up nor down the mountain. Up top is The Peak, the tallest point on the island where foreign diplomats and business tycoons compete for the best views of the harbour from some of the most expensive homes to be found anywhere. Most tourists do not go much further than the Peak Tram, but take a short walk and you will escape the crowds and be rewarded with some of the best harbour views. It is worth investing in a good map from leading bookshops in Central if you want to enjoy some of the superb footpaths that crisscross the island.

The southern side of the island has developed into an upmarket residential area with many large houses and expensive apartments with views across the South China Sea. The island's best beaches, such as Repulse Bay, are found here and visitors can enjoy a more relaxed pace of life than on the bustling harbour side of the island. Wan Chai and Causeway Bay are the most visited neighbourhoods on the eastern side of the island.

Kowloon (九龍) is the peninsula to the north of Hong Kong Island. With over 2.1 million people living in an area of less than 47 square kilometres, Kowloon is one of the most densely populated places on the planet, and has a matching array of places to shop, eat and sleep. Tsim Sha Tsui (尖沙咀), the tip of the peninsula, is Kowloon's main tourist drag and has a mix of backpacker and high-end hotels. Further north, Mong Kok (旺角) has a huge choice of shops and markets in an area of less than a square kilometre. Kowloon side, as it is often known, managed to escape some of the British colonial influences that characterise the Hong Kong Island side. While prices on Kowloon side tend to be cheaper, it is also less tourist-friendly and English proficiency is not as strong as on the Hong Kong Island side.

The New Territories (新界), so named when the British took more land from China in 1898, lie north of Kowloon. Often ignored by travellers who have little time to spare, the New Territories offers a diverse landscape that takes time to get to know. Mountainous country parks overlook New Towns that have a clinical form of modernity that has attracted many to move here from mainland China. Public transport and taxis make this area surprisingly accessible if you dare to get out and explore this offbeat place. You will not find many idyllic villages, but once you get over the stray dogs and the ramshackle buildings you will doubtlessly find something that will surprise you and cause you to reach for your camera.

The Outlying Islands (離島) are a generic label for the islands, islets and rocks in the south of the territory. They form part of the New Territories. Lantau (大嶼山) is by far the largest of them and therefore often considered its own district. Most people arrive here, as Hong Kong International Airport is on a small island just north of Lantau. Lantau hosts some of the territory's most idyllic beaches as well as major attractions such as Disneyland and the Ngong Ping cable car. Other islands include Lamma (南丫島), well known for its seafood, and Cheung Chau (長洲), a small island that used to be a pirates' den, but now attracts seafood aficionados, windsurfers and sunbathing day trippers.

History

Archeological findings date the first human settlements in the area back to more than 30,000 years ago. It was first incorporated into China during the Qin Dynasty and largely remained under Chinese rule until 1841 during the Qing Dynasty, with a brief interruption at the end of the Qin Dynasty, when a Qin official established the kingdom of Nam Yuet, which later fell to the Han Dynasty.

In January 1841, as a result of the defeat of the Qing Dynasty of China in the First Opium War, Hong Kong Island became a British colony, under the Convention of Chuen Pi. After the defeat of China in the Second Opium War, the Kowloon Peninsula was ceded to Britain in 1860. In 1898, the New Territories were leased to Britain for 99 years.

When World War II broke out, Winston Churchill, the British Prime Minister, declared that Hong Kong was an "impregnable fortress". However, it was only a reality check for the British as most of their troops were tied down fighting the Germans in Europe, and Hong Kong was not given enough resources for its defence. As a result, after just slightly more than two weeks of fighting, Hong Kong was surrendered to the Japanese on 25 December 1941, making it the first time the British lost a colony to an invading force. After the war, despite American assuarances that Hong Kong will be restored to China, the British moved quickly to regain control of Hong Kong. However, they had lost their aura of invincibility and could not continue to rule Hong Kong the way they used to before the war, and all restrictions on non-Europeans owning property on prime real estate land were lifted. Hong Kong's post war recovery was astonishingly swift, and within 2-3 months, all post-war economic restrictions were lifted and Hong Kong became a free market once again.

After the communists took control of mainland China in 1949, many Chinese people, especially businessmen, fled to Hong Kong due to persecution by the communist government. Unlike the restrictive policies imposed by the communists in China, the British government took a rather hands off approach in Hong Kong, as proposed by former financial secretary John James Cowperthwaite, which led to a high degree of economic freedom. Under such conditions, businesses flourished in Hong Kong and its economy grew rapidly, earning it a place as one of the East Asian Tigers. In 1990, Hong Kong's GDP per capita surpassed that of Britain, the first time a colony's GDP per capita surpassed that of its colonial masters. Hong Kong is now the world's fourth largest financial centre after London, New York and Tokyo.

The massive influx of mainland Chinese refugees led to the rise of the Kowloon Walled City, which was a horrendous convolution of mazelike alleys, utter darkness, cramped space, and unsanitary conditions. Reports claim that dog meat was served and that unlicensed physicians practiced there. The Walled City was evacuated and subsequently demolished in 1993, and the Kowloon Walled City Park was built on the site.

In 1984, the Chinese and British Governments signed the Joint Declaration on the Question of Hong Kong, giving Hong Kong back to China on 1 July 1997. Hong Kong became a special administrative region (SAR) of the Peoples Republic of China. Under the slogan "One Country, Two Systems", Hong Kong remains a capitalist economy without various restrictions that apply in mainland China such as news censorship and foreign exchange controls.

In accordance with the Joint Declaration, the Basic Law was enacted to serve in effect as a mini-constitution for the Hong Kong SAR. In theory, Hong Kong enjoys a high degree of autonomy in most matters except foreign and defence affairs. In practice, it is more complex than that. On the one hand, Beijing exerts much influence, on the other, there are groups pushing for a more democratic regime and universal suffrage.

In many respects, little has changed since the handover to China in 1997. A chief executive, chosen by an elite electoral college, has replaced the Colonial Governor, Beijing's man has replaced London's man. What was once a British colony now looks like a Chinese colony. Although part of China, Hong Kong operates like a tiny country with its own currency, laws, international dialling code, police force, border controls and the like. It is also a member of international organisations that are normally restricted to sovereign states such as the WTO, APEC and the IOC.

People

The majority of Hong Kong's population are Han Chinese (95%), mostly of Cantonese ancestry, though there are also sizeable numbers of other Chinese groups such as Chiuchao (Teochews), Shanghainese and Hakkas. A significant number of Indian, Pakistani and Nepalese live here too, and many have families that have lived in Hong Kong for several generations. The largest groups of recent, non-Chinese, immigrants are Filipinos, Indonesians and Thais, of which most are employed as domestic helpers. The territory is also home to a significant number of people hailing from Australia, Europe, Japan and North America, making it a truly international place.

Climate

There are four distinct seasons in Hong Kong. Hong Kong can be a little chilly in the winter (10°C) and hot and humid in the summer (33°C). The best times of year to visit are thus, spring (March-May), when the average temperature is around 25°C and autumn (September-December). Christmas in Hong Kong can be a delight with a fair chance of mild sunny weather that will appeal to those coming from colder northern climates. Typhoons usually occur between June and September and can bring a halt to local business activities for a day or less. The weather in winter is usually caused by the winter monsoon which brings dry cold winds from the north. In winter the air can be cold but the sun can still burn. Expect winter temperatures to rise to 22°C on sunny days and fall to under 10°C at night, especially when in mountainous areas. Chinese New Year is notorious for cold wet weather.

Although most buildings in Hong Kong have air-conditioning to cope with the summer weather, winter heating is something of a novelty. During the coldest days, the lack of heating and thermal insulation can be a challenge, especially at bath time. Curiously, buses and many restaurants will continue to use air-conditioning to freshen the air, even on the coldest days.

Books

Its quick rise as an economic power and unique mix of East and West has made Hong Kong an interesting destination to write about. Much has been written about its history, politics, economy, culture and social matters, and it has figured as an ideal background in many fictional works as well. Reading some of these books enables you to further understand the culture of Hong Kong before actually visiting it.

- Myself a Mandarin (Oxford in Asia), Austin Coates. This book contains the memoirs of Austin Coates. Each chapter is an entertaining episode of the Englishman's time as a colonial magistrate in the New Territories district.

- East and West: China, Power, and the Future of Asia (Macmillan), Chris Patten. The memoires of Chris Patten, the last governor of Hong Kong. Published in 1998, Patten provides his account of Hong Kong in the final years before the handover to China.

- Gweilo: Memories of a Hong Kong Childhood (Bantam Books), Martin Booth. A well-written book that offers an insight into colonial life in Hong Kong through the eyes of a young English boy.

- Hong Kong: Epilogue to an Empire (Penguin Books), Jan Morris. In this well-written and detailed overview of the territory by a noted Welsh travel writer. Morris alternates chapters on Hong Kong's history with descriptions of its geography, economy, politics and society. The book includes descriptive portraits of some of Hong Kong's leading politicians and entrepreneurs.

- The World of Suzie Wong (Fontana Press) Richard Mason. A classic novel published in 1957, later adapted to film in 1961. Set in Hong Kong, it is the fictional story of a young expat's romance with a Chinese woman.

- Hong Kong Landscapes: Shaping the Barren Rock (Hong Kong University Press), Bernie Owen and Raynor Shaw. Beautifully illustrated, this is a fascinating guide to the territory's geology and geomorphology.

Film and cinema

- Chungking Express, 1994, Wong Kar-wai. The unrelated stories of two love-struck cops in Hong Kong. Its colourful and fast cinematography has been admired by Quentin Tarantino.

When to visit

Weather— For those who are seeking warm, dry and sunny weather, the ideal time is October to December. Those who are wanting to escape the humidity of tropical climates will appreciate the cooler months of January to March. The temperature ranges from 9°C to 24°C during winter, and from 26°C to 33°C during summer. The humidity is typically high in the spring and worse in the summer, when high temperatures (usual maximum of 32-34°C) are often recorded.

Events — During Chinese New Year, there are some extra celebratory events such as lion dances, fireworks, and parades, and many shops and restaurants are still open. The official public holiday lasts three days.

Culture lovers will be able to feast on a multitude of cultural activities from February to April. The Hong Kong Arts Festival, a month-long festival of international performances, is held in February and March. The Man Literary Festival, a two-week English language festival with international writers as guests, is held in March. The Hong Kong International Film Festival, a three-week event, is held in late March to early April.

Rugby fans, and those wishing to party, should come during the weekend of the Hong Kong Rugby Sevens [2]. This annual event brings many visitors in from around the world to celebrate the most entertaining installment in the IRB Sevens Series. It is a giant three day sellout event that takes place between the last days of March and beginning of April.

There is a second round of cultural activities in the autumn lasting till the end of the year.

Christmas is also a nice time to visit as many stores and shopping centres are nicely decorated, and the festive mood is apparent across downtown areas of the city. Major buildings facing the harbour are decorated in christmas lights to add to the festive spirit.

Electricity

For its electrical sockets, Hong Kong uses the British three-pin rectangular blade plug. Additionally, some hotels will have a bathroom with a parallel three-pin outlet which is designed for use with electric shavers, but might be used to re-charge a phone or rechargeable batteries. Electricity is 220 Volts at 50 Hertz. Most electronic stores will have cheap ($15-20) adapters that will allow foreign plugs to fit into British sockets, but be aware that these will not convert voltage or frequency.

Districts

Hong Kong Island (香港島) (Central, East Coast, South Coast)
Hong Kong Island is the site of the original British settlement. Most of Hong Kong's highest skyscrapers and the financial centre can be found here, including its famous skyline along the northern coastline. Hong Kong's financial centre, shopping. Overall, Hong Kong Island is more modern and wealthy than the other areas of Hong Kong.

Kowloon (九龍)
This peninsula jutting south towards Hong Kong Island from the Asian continent is the most populous area in Hong Kong and at one time it was the most densely populated place in the world. Today, it offers a chaotic mix of malls, street markets and residential tenements.

New Territories (新界)
Named by British officials when leased from the Chinese government in 1898, the New Territories contain a curious mix of small farms, villages, industrial installations, mountainous country parks and towns that have populations the size of some cities.

Lantau (part of the New Territories) (大嶼山)
The largest of the Outlying Islands, twice the size of Hong Kong Island and famous for its high peaks, wild landscapes, great beaches and the airport.

Outlying Islands (part of the New Territories) (離島)
Well-known weekend destinations for the locals, the Outlying Islands are most of the islands surrounding Hong Kong Island. They range from significant population centres to rocks poking out of the sea.

Get in

Immigration reminders

Hong Kong maintains a separate and independent immigration system from that of mainland China. This means that, unlike mainland China, most Western and Asian visitors including Americans, Japanese and Singaporeans do not need to obtain visas in advance. However, it also means that a visa is still required to enter mainland China from Hong Kong. When entering Hong Kong, Macau residents may enter using their identity card while PRC citizens of mainland China need to apply for a separate visit permit, except when transiting Hong Kong to a third country (or vice-versa) where a visa-free access is granted for up to 7 days. Holder of ROC passport, if having a "Taibaozheng" (Entry permit for ROC citizens to Mainland China), can be granted visa-free access for 7 days. Otherwise, a pre-arrival visa is required. Detailed visa requirements are available from the Immigration Department [3] . Those who require visas should apply for one at a Chinese embassy, but note that the Hong Kong visa has to be applied for separately from the mainland Chinese one; there is no single visa that serves both areas.

Anyone arriving at Hong Kong International Airport who requires an onward visa for mainland China can proceed to the desk manned by China Travel Services HK (CTS) found at the arrivals area. A photograph will be required and the staff will be happy to accommodate you.

Note that leaving the mainland for Hong Kong is considered to be leaving China, so you should apply for a multiple entry visa if you wish to enter Hong Kong, then re-enter mainland China.

Be reminded that overstaying and accepting any form of employment in Hong Kong whilst being admitted as a visitor are criminal offences. Offenders are liable to prosecution.

By plane

Hong Kong International Airport

Hong Kong International Airport [4] (IATA: HKG; ICAO: VHHH) which is also known as Chek Lap Kok 赤鱲角 (named after the small island it was built over), is the main port for visitors to Hong Kong by air. Designed by architect Sir Norman Foster, this modern and efficient building opened in July 1998 and has since been named "World's Best Airport" by Skytrax in annual ratings five times.

There are many direct flights to Hong Kong from every continent in the world. Most major cities in Oceania, Europe and North America are all served with at least one daily flight, and flights between Hong Kong and other major Asian cities are also frequent. Cathay Pacific operates one of the longest air routes in the world, linking Hong Kong and New York (JFK).

For destinations within China, it is often cheaper to fly from Shenzhen than from Hong Kong, as flights between the mainland and Hong Kong are considered to be international flights and priced accordingly. There are also flights between Hong Kong and several mid-Pacific islands and nations.

Cathay Pacific [5] and its subsidiary airline Dragonair [6] are Hong Kong's main carriers, with Hong Kong Airlines [7] and Hong Kong Express [8] providing some welcome competition.

There are two terminals, creatively called T1 and T2. Signs on approach to the airport by car/taxi list the terminals and check-in zones. The station is located between the two terminals, so follow the signs when you exit the station. Once checked-in, you can clear security at either terminal with an underground shuttle bus outside the security area. There are probably more shopping opportunities before security at T2, but its shops close earlier. There are lots of shopping opportunities after security as well. Travellers will find an efficient post office in the airport, providing boxes, wrapping material, scissors and tape. It might be more economical to send your excess luggage via surface mail than paying fees to the airline. Terminal 2 is a check-in only facility, all flights depart from Terminal 1.

There is a manned left luggage facility in the arrival hall, perfect for securely storing your luggage at the airport, for around $55-$80 per day (depending on duration): it opens from 6:00AM to 1:00AM.

Overall, services at Chek Lap Kok are generally far better, or at least on par, with those at other major international airports.

Airport Express

The Airport Express is a fast and environmentally friendly form of passenger transport to and from the airport to Tsing Yi, Kowloon and Hong Kong Island. The clean, comfortable and efficient train departs every 12 minutes and takes approximately 24 minutes to reach Hong Kong station. All stations have staff to help you get heavy bags on and off of the train; there is no need to tip them. Each way costs $60-$100, or a round trip for $110-$180, depending on the distance travelled. If you buy your ticket from a machine you will have to pay the standard fare, however, if you travel with other people you can get a discount from the staff at the counter. If in doubt, ask the staff for advice before you hand over your money. After reaching your station, free shuttle buses connect to major hotels in Kowloon and Hong Kong island, or you can continue onward by MTR or taxi. Around half of the trip will be underground and some of the "above-ground" travel is through "covered" tracks.

- The Airport Express Tourist Transport Pass gives you an Octopus card (see Get around) which is good for three days of unlimited MTR travel, plus one ride on the Airport Express (for $220) or two (for $300). In effect, you're paying $70 for three days on the MTR, which is a fair bit of travel but might be worth it if you're planning to visit Lantau Island or the New Territories. You can return the card after use to get back $50 deposit, or keep it for your next trip — any leftover value will remain valid for three years. You can add money to the card, which you can use for payment for buses, trams and most ferries.

Bus

- KMB Route 270A.[39] starts from the downtown in Jordan, Kowloon. It goes along Peninsular Kowloon and heads through the New Territories. Then it goes into Sha Tin. Afterwards it goes through Tai Po Road, where you can see many traditional Chinese villages and the scenic Chinese University of Hong Kong. The bus further goes to Tai Po and you can see the traditional Market. After Tai Po, the bus again passes through the countryside and eventually reaches its terminus at Sheung Shui (below Landmark North), which is near the Hong Kong - Shenzhen boundary. The journey takes 80 minutes and costs $13 for the whole journey with a air-conditioned bus. The TST Eastbound train back to the city can be taken from Sheung Shui.

- NWFB Route 15 [40] starts from Central (Exchange Square) to The Peak. It is an alternative way for getting to The Peak by bus rather than by Peak Tram. Your journey to Hong Kong will not be complete unless you have visited the Victoria Peak. You can see the beautiful view of Hong Kong Island, Victoria Habour and Kowloon Peninsula along the Stubbs road during the journey. When you arrive, there are two shopping malls: The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, which provide restaurants, a supermarket, and souvenir shops for your convenience. In addition, you can visit the infamous Madame Tussauds Hong Kong [41] and see if the mannequins look to be the real deal. Direction: you can take MTR and get off at Hong Kong station. You can approach Hong Kong station by the underpass from Central station. After that, follow the exit B1 to Exchange Square and you will see the bus terminus. You can also get off at Admiralty station. Then, follow the C1 exit towards Queensway Plaza. Make a right after you exit the station, and you will see the bus stop. After you get on the bus, just stay on until it arrives to The Peak bus terminus. The bus fare is $9.8 and it takes about 30 minutes for the journey.

- Citybus Route 973 [42] Route 973 starts from the Tsim Sha Tsui East Bus Terminus which is located at the Concordia Plaza, which is directly opposite the Science Museum at Science Museum Road. It goes along Salisbury Road, where the Avenue of Stars, The Space Museum and the Art Museum is located. Later it goes to University of Hong Kong, which is the most prominent and the oldest university in Hong Kong after crossing the Western Harbour Crossing. It later pass through the country side of the southern part of Hong Kong [43]. It will reach the Hong Kong southern side, where the Jumbo/Tai Pak Floating Restaurant [44] is located at Aberdeen. Not long after, the bus passes through a football field, which is a 5-10 minutes walk to the Ocean Park. Finally, the bus passes through the beautiful sandy beach of Repulse Bay, before it actually arrive its terminus station at Stanley Village, where the famous Murray House and the Stanley Village Market is located. The fare is $13.6 and it takes about 95 minutes for the journey.

- Citybus Route H1, H2

These two are rickshaw-themed double deckers going to main heritage spots on Hong Kong Island, such as LegCo in Central and the University of Hong Kong. A day pass cost $50, and you can hop on and hop off at any stop.

Taxi

A taxi from the airport to Central will cost you around $350 depending on your exact destination. If you have three or more people travelling together, it is generally cheaper to travel by taxi than by Airport Express, but you may have a problem fitting so many bags into the taxi. Use a red taxi for destinations to Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, Green taxis are restricted to the New Territories and blue taxis are for Lantau Island.

The official taxi fare table is available online. There is a large chart at the exit to the taxi stand showing the approximate fares to most destinations. The law is strict on taxi drivers who must charge according to the meter. According to the Hong Kong Transport Department, the first two kilometres costs $18, then $1.50 for each 200 metres. When the meter fare reaches $70.5, the cost for each 200 metres will change to $1.00 The meter fare does not include the luggage fee, toll fee, waiting fee or pet fee.

Taxis from the airport to downtown Kowloon can suffer from traffic congestion. If you are going to Hong Kong Island, tell the taxi driver to use the "Western Harbour Crossing" to avoid congestion, but this will attract an additional surcharge.

From the airport there are private cars and vans operating illegally as taxis. Do not take these as they are not licensed and in case of accidents, your insurance will not cover you.

In-City Airport Check-In

If departing Hong Kong by air, you can check-in your luggage and get boarding passes at two MTR stations in the city. These stations serve as airport satellite locations with airline staff and ticketing booths. This is convenient for people wishing to spend precious final hours in the city instead of at remote Lantau Island where the airport is located.

The two MTR stations providing this service are Hong Kong (next to MTR Central station) and Kowloon (in West Kowloon). If you opt for these check-in services, you must first pay the fare for riding Airport Express (which is a faster but more expensive way of getting to the airport). With some airlines, such as Cathay Pacific, you can drop off your luggage up to one day before travel, get your boarding passes, go off on that last shopping foray, and then return to ride Airport Express to complete your Hong Kong adventure.

Usually there are some sort of Airport Express discounts offers, check the MTR Airport Express website for most up-to-date discounts.

Shenzhen International Airport

Because flying from Hong Kong to the mainland is considered an international flight, flying around mainland China using Shenzhen Airport (IATA: SZX) [10] is often significantly cheaper. Many hotels in Hong Kong offer a shuttle bus from the hotel direct to Shenzhen airport. In the recently completed Elements shopping centre above the Kowloon MTR station on the Tung Chung and the Airport Express line, there is a shop front waiting room where you can check-in and receive your boarding pass (although check in at this location is not available for China Southern Airlines passengers), and then board a bus direct to Shenzhen airport. This in-town check-in is completely separate from the in-town check-in provided for Hong Kong International Airport. Take the escalators up from the AE/MTR station to 1/F of the Elements Mall, turn right, and then it is opposite Starbucks. The bus uses the new western passage immigration facilities where both Hong Kong SAR and Chinese immigration formalities are completed under one roof. The cost of the service is $100 and the bus is advertised to take 75 minutes, but is more like 90 minutes in reality. Buses currently run every half an hour from 6:30AM to 7PM at Hong Kong side, and from 10AM to 9PM at Shenzhen side.

Macau International Airport

Because of higher fees at Hong Kong International Airport, it is often cheaper to fly out of Macau International Airport (IATA: MFM) [11]. Air Asia [12] has set up a hub at Macau and flies to destinations such as Kuala Lumpur, and Bangkok among others. Macau International Airport is easily reached by ferry from Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and Hong Kong International Airport. With the Express Link [13] service, you can even transfer directly from airport to ferry (or vice versa) without going through Macau immigration.

By helicopter

Sky Shuttle [14] operates a helicopter service every 30 minutes from the Terminal Marítimo in Macau to the Shun Tak Heliport (IATA: HHP; ICAO: VHST) at the Hong Kong-Macau Ferry Pier in Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Island. The trip takes 16 minutes and one-way fares cost $2,200, plus $200 on weekends and public holidays.

By boat

The Star Ferry Star Ferry [23] is the classic way to get to Hong Kong Island from Kowloon. There are two routes operated by The Star Ferry company.

- Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon - Central, Hong Kong Island — the busiest route by far, and only $2.5/2 on the upper/lower deck. The lower deck might get you air-con, but the views are better from the upper deck.

- Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon - Wan Chai, Hong Kong Island.

New World First Ferry New World First Ferry [24] operates some other routes between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon.

- Hung Hom, Kowloon - North Point, Hong Kong Island.

- Kowloon City, Kowloon - North Point, Hong Kong Island.

Fortune Ferry operates one route.

- Kwun Tong, Kowloon - North Point, Hong Kong Island.

Coral Sea Ferry operates two routes between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon.

- Kwun Tong, Kowloon - Sai Wan Ho, Hong Kong Island.

- Sam Ka Tsuen, Kowloon - Sai Wan Ho, Hong Kong Island.

The Transport Department also provides an online directory [25] on Hong Kong's ferry services.

Note that, due to an ongoing reclamation and redevelopment project in Central/Admiralty that includes a new waterfront, much of the shoreline is presently a mess and access to the ferries can be a little confusing — take heed of signs warning about the ever-shifting arrangements.

By ferry

A vast fleet of ferries plies between the many islands of Hong Kong. The granddaddy of them all and an attraction in itself is the Star Ferry [34], whose most popular line travels between Tsim Sha Tsui and Central from early morning until late at night, and offers amazing views (especially when coming from Tsim Sha Tsui). The Star Ferry is an icon of Hong Kong heritage and has carried passengers for over 120 years. Taking its eleven minute ride across the harbour and catching some misty breeze is considered a "must do" when visiting Hong Kong.

Upper deck seats cost $2.50 on weekdays and $3.00 on weekends while the lower deck cost $1.50 on weekdays and $1.80 on weekends, both payable with Octopus, cash (change given) or by onsite vending machine. The Star Ferry also operates between Tsim Sha Tsui and Wanchai but only offers upper-deck seating.

Ferries to Lamma, Lantau and other islands depart from a variety of ports, but the largest and most important terminal is at Central adjacent to the Star Ferry. Ferries are usually divided into fast ferries and slow ferries, with fast ferries charging around twice the price for half the journey time, although not all destinations offer both kinds of service. Example fares for trips from Central to Yung Shue Wan (Lamma) are $10/15 slow/fast, and to Mui Wo (Lantau) $10.50/$21. Note that all fares increase by around 50% on Sundays and public holidays.

By ship

The Ocean Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui is one of the hubs of Star Cruises [20]. Cruise ships leave from here for various cities in Vietnam, mainland China and Taiwan. There are also long haul services all the way to Singapore via ports in Vietnam, Thailand and Malaysia.

By land

Crossing the border to mainland China puts you in Shenzhen, a well-developed boomtown. Please note that there are special visa regulations if you plan to visit Shenzhen.

There are six land checkpoints between Hong Kong and mainland China, namely Lo Wu, Lok Ma Chau Spur Line, Lok Ma Chau, Man Kam To, Sha Tau Ko and Shenzhen Bay. Lo Wu is a train and pedestrian crossing; Lok Ma Chau spur line is a pedestrian crossing; Lok Ma Chau and Sha Tau Kok are road, cross-boundary bus and pedestrian crossings; while Man Kam To and Shenzhen Bay bridge are road and cross-boundary bus crossings.

- Lo Wu: This control point can only be accessed by the MTR East Rail Line and the crossing can only be done on foot (unless you take a through-train from Hung Hom where the train will not stop at all. See "By train" section below). It is often congested with travellers during weekends and holidays, so if you want to avoid for the long queues, please use the other control points on holidays. For some nationalities (not US), visa-on-arrival can be obtained on the Chinese side.Getting there/away: Trains from Tsim Sha Tsui East to Lo Wu run every five to eight minutes. Shenzhen city centre lies just beyond the Chinese immigration checkpoint.

- Lok Ma Chau Spur Line: This crossing can be accessed by the MTR East Rail Line, by bus/minibuses or by taxi, and the crossing can only be done on foot. Using the double-decked Lok Ma Chau-Huanggang pedestrian bridge, passengers will find themselves at the FuTian immigration checkpoint of the PRC. The control point is not popular and thus less crowded than at Lo Wu. Travellers should note that its opening hours is slightly shorter than that of Lo Wu. Getting there/away: While 1 out of 2/3 northbound East Rail Line trains terminates at that station, the control point can also be reached from Yuen Long by KMB bus number B1 or by minibus number 75. On the Shenzhen side, Fu Tian Checkpoint metro station is just after the immigration checkpoint.

- Lok Ma Chau: This crossing consists of separate facilities for pedestrians which is accessed by bus and for road vehicles, and is the only border control point which offers 24-hour immigration services. A shuttle service, known as the "Yellow Bus", operates between the Lok Ma Chau Public Transport Interchange located at San Tin and Huanggang Port of the PRC side. Alternatively, travellers can board the express buses from urban areas of Hong Kong which will carry their passengers directly to the control point. For both modes, passengers after passing through Hong Kong Immigration control has to board the same bus at the other side of the control point, which will then carry them to Huanggang port of Shenzhen side, where they need to get off again and pass through PRC immigration control. Getting there/away: The Lok Ma Chau Public Transport Interchange is served by KMB buses 277, N277, 76K, and 276B, and passengers can board the "Yellow Bus" shuttle there. Alternatively, passenger can board the buses to the port at urban areas in Hong Kong (See "By bus" section below). Over in Shenzhen, a large taxi stand and a bus terminus is right outside the control point but its no where near the Fu Tian Checkpoint metro station .

- Man Kam To: This crossing is mostly used by private vehicles and cross-boundary buses. See "By bus" section below.

- Sha Tau Kok: Located furthest east, this control point can be accessed by taking the cross-boundary coach. It is quite a distance from the centre of Shenzhen and is relatively quiet. There are no Chinese visa-on-arrival facilities. See "By bus" section below.

- Shenzhen Bay Bridge: This control point links Hong Kong directly with Shekou, Shenzhen. It can be used by private vehicles and cross-boundary buses. See "By bus" section below.

Please note that all the crossings, save for Shenzhen Bay Bridge, are located in the Frontier Closed Area and everyone is required to have a permit to be there unless crossing the border. Lo Wu and Lok Ma Chau can be easily reached by train, but if you are just there to look around, be ready for some security questioning. It is also not easy to directly access the train departure area from the arrivals area.

By bus

There are three types of bus available in Hong Kong, operated by a multitude of companies. While generally easy to use (especially with Octopus), signage in English can be sparse and finding your bus stop can get difficult. Buses are pretty much your only option for travelling around the south side of the island and Lantau.

The large double-decker buses cover practically all of the territory, stop frequently and charge varying fares depending on the distance. The first seats of the upper deck offer great views. The franchised bus operators in Hong Kong include Kowloon Motor Bus [30] (KMB) (and its subsidary Long Win Bus), Citybus [31], New World First Bus [32] and New Lantao Bus [33]. Route and fare information can be found on the companies web sites. Fares will depend more on where you board rather than where you get-off which means it is more expensive to board at the earlier stops rather than the later stops. Hence, bus rides which cross the harbour between Kowloon and the Island exceed $9 prior to the crossing. The fare is displayed on a digital display above the farebox - exact change, Octopus Card or a ticket purchased from a bus travel centre (found at major transit hubs such as Star Ferry or Central Bus Terminus) must be used. Unlike mainland China, there are no annoucements (except KMB/Long Win Bus who has annoucements in Cantonese, Mandarin and English) and buses will only stop when requested - when your bus approaches, raise your arm to hail the bus (like you would hail a taxi), and when alighting, press the buzzer (located by the exit doors and on the grab-rails) to signal to the driver that you want to alight. Always board at the front and alight from the centre door - unless the bus only has one door, in which case keep to the left.

Van-sized public light buses carry a maximum of 16 passengers (seats only) and come in two varieties, red minibuses and green minibuses (the red buses are also called maxicabs); the colour refers to a wide stripe painted on top of the vehicle. Riding a minibus may not be easy for travellers, as it is customary to call out the name of the stop or ask the driver to stop in Cantonese. More and more red minibuses accept Octopus card, but still many do not accept Octopus but will give you change, while green minibuses do accept Octopus payment but can not give you change if you pay in cash. The Hong Kong Island green minibus #1 down from the Peak to Central is particularly exhilarating. Red minibuses tend to have a more Chinese feel than green buses. Prices on red minibuses are often displayed only in Chinese numbers. The price displayed on a red minibus can legally vary according to the market price, so expect to pay more at busy times. Some people argue that the driving standards of red minibuses is lower than green minibuses; Minibus drivers generally drive fast, especially at night. Always use minibus seatbelts where available. You will notice that they all have an extra, large, digital speedometer in the cabin for the passengers to view, this is required by the government after a few fatal accidents due to speeding. Since the introduction of these passenger speedometers mini-bus accident rates have dropped.

The MTR also maintains a fleet of feeder buses. MTR passengers can enjoy a free feeder service if the payment is made by Octopus. The route K16 is especially useful for tourists who need to go to Tsim Sha Tsui from the New Territories and mainland China by rail.

Note that if paying in cash, the exact fare is required and no change can be given. Paying by Octopus is much more convenient. The exception to this rule is if you use a red minibus, Octopus cards are not accepted on red minibus services, but they do give you change.

Route numbering is independent in six regions: bus on Hong Kong Island/ in Kowloon and in New Territories/ on Lantau Island, green minibus on Hong Kong Island/ in Kowloon/ in New Territories and several exceptional auxiliary buses route (red minibuses does not have a route number). This leads to duplication of routes in different regions. Although the Transport Department of Hong Kong Government has been working on the unifying of the route numbers, it is still a little bit messy at the moment. If you are confused a bit by the numbering of routes, here is a suggestion: just remember the route number of buses in Hong Kong Island/Kowloon/New Territories only whenever it is necessary. In other special circumstances, ask the driver or the station staff for the Lantau buses and green minibuses and they can answer you.

Generally you need not to mention which district the route belongs to when you are asking for directions (almost all people will assume you will asking for the route which runs in the district you are in, e.g. if you ask for bus route #2, locals will assume you will asking for bus route #2 running in Kowloon if you are in Kowloon), but you really need to mention whether the route is bus or minibus when you ask, since in some cases both bus and minibus can have same route number in the same area which are actually different routes. (e.g. there are both bus route #6 and minibus route #6 in Tsim Sha Tsui, which are actually different routes).

By bicycle

Bicycles are usually only seen as a substitute for short journeys and walking. This is especially so on Hong Kong Island and the busy parts of Kowloon, due to the heavy traffic, fast speed of vehicles, steep hills, narrow streets and an absence of bicycle lanes. A network of tarmac cycle tracks sprawl across the New Territories making it relatively easy to bike for longer distances.

There are also several mountain-bike trails in the Country Parks, although a permit is necessary to bring your bicycle into the parks. Visitors should comply with the Road User's Guide which is based on the United Kingdom Highway Code. If you plan to use busy urban roads you should be fit enough to keep up with the traffic, which moves surprisingly quickly.

Bike rental is available in several locations across the territory. Popular rental spots include Cheung Chau, Mui Wo (Lantau), Sha Tin, Tai Po Market, Tuen Mun and Ma On Shan. Rental fees are typically $20-30 a day for a standard entry-level mountain bike, or around $150 per day for a higher-spec mountain or road bike.

In general, although cycling is possible, Hong Kong is not a bicycle-friendly place because of its hilly landscapes, government policies, air pollution and a general lack of consideration by many motorists. Locals sometimes cycle on the pavements if they are not crowded, although most of time, pavements are too crowded even for pushing your bike.

Basic rules to follow:

1. Cyclists are not allowed by law to ride on highways and tunnels, which are well patrolled.

2. It is an offence to be drunk in charge of a bicycle.

3. By law, you're required to have a front and rear light.

4. Electronic bike conversion systems are not allowed. The police have a strict enforcement policy on this offence.

5. The maximum penalty for riding on pedestrian roads is $500 or a three month jail sentence. Usually offenders get a warning, but the Hong Kong Police do occasionally have an annual, or bi-annual crackdown.

6. For folding bike users, sometimes a bus driver will tell you that it's not allowed, but if you talk to them nicely they will usually let you board. A bicycle bag that makes your bike look like ordinary luggage can make your life a lot easier.

By train

Hong Kong's Mass Transit Railway [27] (MTR) underground and overground network is the fastest way to get around the territory, but what you gain in speed you lose in views and (at least for short distances) price. There are ten lines, including the Airport Express, plus a network of modern tram lines operated by the MTR in the North West New Territories. The Kowloon Canton Railway (KCR), including its link to the mainland border at Lo Wu (Shenzhen), was merged into the MTR in 2007 and now operates as a integral part of it.

The most important lines for many visitors are the busy Tsuen Wan Line (red), which tunnels from Central to Kowloon and down Nathan Road towards Tsuen Wan in the New Territories and the Island Line (blue) which runs along the north coast of the Island. The new Tung Chung Line (orange) is the fastest route to Lantau and one of the cheapest ways to the airport when coupled with the S1 shuttle bus stationed at Tung Chung MTR station. The line also provides a link to Hong Kong Disneyland via a change at Sunny Bay station. The East Rail Line (light blue) is handy for heading up to mainland China by rail. All signs are bilingual in Chinese and English and all announcements are made in Cantonese, Mandarin and English so tourists should not have a problem using the rail system. Should you get lost, staff in the station control room usually speak some English so they would be able to help you out.

Most underground MTR stations have one Hang Seng Bank branch (except for the massive Hong Kong/Central station, which has two). Since they're a common feature, unambiguous and easy to find, they're a good place to tell people to meet you.

Note that in Hong Kong, a subway is an underground walkway, not an underground railway, and signs for "subway" will just lead you to the other side of the street. Look for the MTR logo instead.

Fares depend on distance. Credit cards are not accepted to pay for tickets or passes except for rides on the Airport Express Line.

In addition to the Airport Express Octopus (see above), you can also buy a 24-hour pass for $50 at any MTR station; however, this pass is not valid on the Airport Express line.

Hong Kong Island

There are numerous ways to get to Hong Kong Island.

By boat

The Star Ferry Star Ferry [23] is the classic way to get to Hong Kong Island from Kowloon. There are two routes operated by The Star Ferry company.

- Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon - Central, Hong Kong Island — the busiest route by far, and only $2.5/2 on the upper/lower deck. The lower deck might get you air-con, but the views are better from the upper deck.

- Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon - Wan Chai, Hong Kong Island.

New World First Ferry New World First Ferry [24] operates some other routes between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon.

- Hung Hom, Kowloon - North Point, Hong Kong Island.

- Kowloon City, Kowloon - North Point, Hong Kong Island.

Fortune Ferry operates one route.

- Kwun Tong, Kowloon - North Point, Hong Kong Island.

Coral Sea Ferry operates two routes between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon.

- Kwun Tong, Kowloon - Sai Wan Ho, Hong Kong Island.

- Sam Ka Tsuen, Kowloon - Sai Wan Ho, Hong Kong Island.

The Transport Department also provides an online directory [25] on Hong Kong's ferry services.

Note that, due to an ongoing reclamation and redevelopment project in Central/Admiralty that includes a new waterfront, much of the shoreline is presently a mess and access to the ferries can be a little confusing — take heed of signs warning about the ever-shifting arrangements.

By bus

There are three types of bus available in Hong Kong, operated by a multitude of companies. While generally easy to use (especially with Octopus), signage in English can be sparse and finding your bus stop can get difficult. Buses are pretty much your only option for travelling around the south side of the island and Lantau.

The large double-decker buses cover practically all of the territory, stop frequently and charge varying fares depending on the distance. The first seats of the upper deck offer great views. The franchised bus operators in Hong Kong include Kowloon Motor Bus [30] (KMB) (and its subsidary Long Win Bus), Citybus [31], New World First Bus [32] and New Lantao Bus [33]. Route and fare information can be found on the companies web sites. Fares will depend more on where you board rather than where you get-off which means it is more expensive to board at the earlier stops rather than the later stops. Hence, bus rides which cross the harbour between Kowloon and the Island exceed $9 prior to the crossing. The fare is displayed on a digital display above the farebox - exact change, Octopus Card or a ticket purchased from a bus travel centre (found at major transit hubs such as Star Ferry or Central Bus Terminus) must be used. Unlike mainland China, there are no annoucements (except KMB/Long Win Bus who has annoucements in Cantonese, Mandarin and English) and buses will only stop when requested - when your bus approaches, raise your arm to hail the bus (like you would hail a taxi), and when alighting, press the buzzer (located by the exit doors and on the grab-rails) to signal to the driver that you want to alight. Always board at the front and alight from the centre door - unless the bus only has one door, in which case keep to the left.

Van-sized public light buses carry a maximum of 16 passengers (seats only) and come in two varieties, red minibuses and green minibuses (the red buses are also called maxicabs); the colour refers to a wide stripe painted on top of the vehicle. Riding a minibus may not be easy for travellers, as it is customary to call out the name of the stop or ask the driver to stop in Cantonese. More and more red minibuses accept Octopus card, but still many do not accept Octopus but will give you change, while green minibuses do accept Octopus payment but can not give you change if you pay in cash. The Hong Kong Island green minibus #1 down from the Peak to Central is particularly exhilarating. Red minibuses tend to have a more Chinese feel than green buses. Prices on red minibuses are often displayed only in Chinese numbers. The price displayed on a red minibus can legally vary according to the market price, so expect to pay more at busy times. Some people argue that the driving standards of red minibuses is lower than green minibuses; Minibus drivers generally drive fast, especially at night. Always use minibus seatbelts where available. You will notice that they all have an extra, large, digital speedometer in the cabin for the passengers to view, this is required by the government after a few fatal accidents due to speeding. Since the introduction of these passenger speedometers mini-bus accident rates have dropped.

The MTR also maintains a fleet of feeder buses. MTR passengers can enjoy a free feeder service if the payment is made by Octopus. The route K16 is especially useful for tourists who need to go to Tsim Sha Tsui from the New Territories and mainland China by rail.

Note that if paying in cash, the exact fare is required and no change can be given. Paying by Octopus is much more convenient. The exception to this rule is if you use a red minibus, Octopus cards are not accepted on red minibus services, but they do give you change.

Route numbering is independent in six regions: bus on Hong Kong Island/ in Kowloon and in New Territories/ on Lantau Island, green minibus on Hong Kong Island/ in Kowloon/ in New Territories and several exceptional auxiliary buses route (red minibuses does not have a route number). This leads to duplication of routes in different regions. Although the Transport Department of Hong Kong Government has been working on the unifying of the route numbers, it is still a little bit messy at the moment. If you are confused a bit by the numbering of routes, here is a suggestion: just remember the route number of buses in Hong Kong Island/Kowloon/New Territories only whenever it is necessary. In other special circumstances, ask the driver or the station staff for the Lantau buses and green minibuses and they can answer you.

Generally you need not to mention which district the route belongs to when you are asking for directions (almost all people will assume you will asking for the route which runs in the district you are in, e.g. if you ask for bus route #2, locals will assume you will asking for bus route #2 running in Kowloon if you are in Kowloon), but you really need to mention whether the route is bus or minibus when you ask, since in some cases both bus and minibus can have same route number in the same area which are actually different routes. (e.g. there are both bus route #6 and minibus route #6 in Tsim Sha Tsui, which are actually different routes).

By metro

From more distant points the three lines of the MTR crossing the harbour may offer a faster alternative.

By train

Hong Kong's Mass Transit Railway [27] (MTR) underground and overground network is the fastest way to get around the territory, but what you gain in speed you lose in views and (at least for short distances) price. There are ten lines, including the Airport Express, plus a network of modern tram lines operated by the MTR in the North West New Territories. The Kowloon Canton Railway (KCR), including its link to the mainland border at Lo Wu (Shenzhen), was merged into the MTR in 2007 and now operates as a integral part of it.

The most important lines for many visitors are the busy Tsuen Wan Line (red), which tunnels from Central to Kowloon and down Nathan Road towards Tsuen Wan in the New Territories and the Island Line (blue) which runs along the north coast of the Island. The new Tung Chung Line (orange) is the fastest route to Lantau and one of the cheapest ways to the airport when coupled with the S1 shuttle bus stationed at Tung Chung MTR station. The line also provides a link to Hong Kong Disneyland via a change at Sunny Bay station. The East Rail Line (light blue) is handy for heading up to mainland China by rail. All signs are bilingual in Chinese and English and all announcements are made in Cantonese, Mandarin and English so tourists should not have a problem using the rail system. Should you get lost, staff in the station control room usually speak some English so they would be able to help you out.

Most underground MTR stations have one Hang Seng Bank branch (except for the massive Hong Kong/Central station, which has two). Since they're a common feature, unambiguous and easy to find, they're a good place to tell people to meet you.

Note that in Hong Kong, a subway is an underground walkway, not an underground railway, and signs for "subway" will just lead you to the other side of the street. Look for the MTR logo instead.

Fares depend on distance. Credit cards are not accepted to pay for tickets or passes except for rides on the Airport Express Line.

In addition to the Airport Express Octopus (see above), you can also buy a 24-hour pass for $50 at any MTR station; however, this pass is not valid on the Airport Express line.

Get around

Octopus card

The Octopus card [26] (八達通, Bat Dat Toong in Cantonese,) provides instant electronic access to Hong Kong's public transport system. As the world's first contactless smart debit card, it can be tapped onto a reader to transfer fare from the passenger to the carrier. Those who are familiar with Singapore's eZ-Link card, London Underground's Oyster card or Japan Railway's IC cards will quickly understand the concept of the Octopus card. In addition to being used for all forms of public transport (except most of the red-top minibuses and taxis), Octopus is also accepted for payment in almost all convenience stores, restaurant chains like McDonald's and Cafe de Coral, many vending machines, all roadside parking and some car parks. Some housing estates and schools use the card for identification at entry. The Octopus card functionality can also come in the form of personalised cards, ornaments, keychains and watches which you can pre-order at octopuscards.com if you're interested.

When travelling by MTR and some bus routes, payment by Octopus card can sometimes be cheaper than cash because carriers frequently offer discounts to Octopus users (such as the route between the airport and the city). There's really no reason to get one if you are in Hong Kong for a short time, however, if your itinerary includes daily use of ferries, buses, minibuses and the MTR then you will wish you had one.

Basic Octopus cards cost $150, with $100 face value plus $50 refundable deposit. A $7 service charge applies if the card is returned in less than three months for the refundable deposit. The maximum value an Octopus card can carry is $1,000. The Octopus card also allows its remaining value to go negative once before topping up. For example, you may pay for a ride of $5 with a remaining value of $2 on the card (bringing the stored value to -$3) but you cannot use the card again until the value is topped up. The negative value of an Octopus card can go as far as $35. Note that isn't really "negative", meaning you don't have to pay MTR back, since your $50 deposit secures it.

The Central to Mid-Levels escalator, at 800 metres long, this is the longest outdoor, covered, escalator system in the world. When travelling downhill on the escalator, there is a machine, where you can touch your Octopus card, and your next MTR journey will have a $2 discount. The escalator runs downhill from 6AM to 10AM and uphill from 10:30AM to midnight every day.

Your Octopus cards' balance is displayed on the reader after each use. The balance can also be checked, along with the last several transactions, using a small machine near regular ticket machines at MTR stations.

For travellers, there are three convenient ways to refill a card:

- Add Value machines, usually located next to regular ticket machines in MTR stations. These machines accept cash only.

- Customer service at any MTR station.

- Merchants that accept Octopus (e.g. 7-Eleven, etc.).

By train

Hong Kong's Mass Transit Railway [27] (MTR) underground and overground network is the fastest way to get around the territory, but what you gain in speed you lose in views and (at least for short distances) price. There are ten lines, including the Airport Express, plus a network of modern tram lines operated by the MTR in the North West New Territories. The Kowloon Canton Railway (KCR), including its link to the mainland border at Lo Wu (Shenzhen), was merged into the MTR in 2007 and now operates as a integral part of it.

The most important lines for many visitors are the busy Tsuen Wan Line (red), which tunnels from Central to Kowloon and down Nathan Road towards Tsuen Wan in the New Territories and the Island Line (blue) which runs along the north coast of the Island. The new Tung Chung Line (orange) is the fastest route to Lantau and one of the cheapest ways to the airport when coupled with the S1 shuttle bus stationed at Tung Chung MTR station. The line also provides a link to Hong Kong Disneyland via a change at Sunny Bay station. The East Rail Line (light blue) is handy for heading up to mainland China by rail. All signs are bilingual in Chinese and English and all announcements are made in Cantonese, Mandarin and English so tourists should not have a problem using the rail system. Should you get lost, staff in the station control room usually speak some English so they would be able to help you out.

Most underground MTR stations have one Hang Seng Bank branch (except for the massive Hong Kong/Central station, which has two). Since they're a common feature, unambiguous and easy to find, they're a good place to tell people to meet you.

Note that in Hong Kong, a subway is an underground walkway, not an underground railway, and signs for "subway" will just lead you to the other side of the street. Look for the MTR logo instead.

Fares depend on distance. Credit cards are not accepted to pay for tickets or passes except for rides on the Airport Express Line.

In addition to the Airport Express Octopus (see above), you can also buy a 24-hour pass for $50 at any MTR station; however, this pass is not valid on the Airport Express line.

By tram

Operated by Hong Kong Tramways [28], the narrow double-decker city trams (sometimes known in Cantonese as "ding ding") trundling along the northern coast of Hong Kong Island are a Hong Kong icon and have provided cheap transport for over a century. Trams are slower and bumpier than other modes of transport, and they are not air conditioned. But the route along the length of Hong Kong Island's centre covers many places tourists would want to see. With a flat fare of only $2, it's the cheapest sightseeing tour around. A suggested sightseeing option lasting over an hour is to board at the Kennedy Town Terminus where you can be sure to get a good seat on the upper deck. As the tram traverse eastward, you will have an elevated view of the island and see its different flavours, from bustling Hong Kong street life to its glitzy financial and shopping districts and, finally, a taste of suburban tranquility. Passengers board at the rear and the fare is paid upon alighting at the front of the tram. Exact change and Octopus cards are accepted. Trams run 6:00AM to midnight.

In a league of its own is the Peak Tram [29], Hong Kong's first mechanised mode of transport, opened back in 1888. The remarkably steep 1.7 km track up from Central to Victoria Peak is worth at least one trip despite the comparatively steep price ($25 one-way, $36 return; return tickets must be purchased in advance). The tram turnstyles do take Octopus cards, which will allow you to avoid a stop at the ticketing line at the station. During public holidays and other similar occasions the Peak Tram is likely to have very long queues of people waiting to board. Note that the tram is not the only way to get to the Peak, and there are cheaper (but slower and less scenic) alternatives such as the number 1 (green minibus) & number 15 (double-deck bus) that cost $8.4 and $9.8, respectively, from Exchange Square Bus Terminus.

By bus

There are three types of bus available in Hong Kong, operated by a multitude of companies. While generally easy to use (especially with Octopus), signage in English can be sparse and finding your bus stop can get difficult. Buses are pretty much your only option for travelling around the south side of the island and Lantau.

The large double-decker buses cover practically all of the territory, stop frequently and charge varying fares depending on the distance. The first seats of the upper deck offer great views. The franchised bus operators in Hong Kong include Kowloon Motor Bus [30] (KMB) (and its subsidary Long Win Bus), Citybus [31], New World First Bus [32] and New Lantao Bus [33]. Route and fare information can be found on the companies web sites. Fares will depend more on where you board rather than where you get-off which means it is more expensive to board at the earlier stops rather than the later stops. Hence, bus rides which cross the harbour between Kowloon and the Island exceed $9 prior to the crossing. The fare is displayed on a digital display above the farebox - exact change, Octopus Card or a ticket purchased from a bus travel centre (found at major transit hubs such as Star Ferry or Central Bus Terminus) must be used. Unlike mainland China, there are no annoucements (except KMB/Long Win Bus who has annoucements in Cantonese, Mandarin and English) and buses will only stop when requested - when your bus approaches, raise your arm to hail the bus (like you would hail a taxi), and when alighting, press the buzzer (located by the exit doors and on the grab-rails) to signal to the driver that you want to alight. Always board at the front and alight from the centre door - unless the bus only has one door, in which case keep to the left.

Van-sized public light buses carry a maximum of 16 passengers (seats only) and come in two varieties, red minibuses and green minibuses (the red buses are also called maxicabs); the colour refers to a wide stripe painted on top of the vehicle. Riding a minibus may not be easy for travellers, as it is customary to call out the name of the stop or ask the driver to stop in Cantonese. More and more red minibuses accept Octopus card, but still many do not accept Octopus but will give you change, while green minibuses do accept Octopus payment but can not give you change if you pay in cash. The Hong Kong Island green minibus #1 down from the Peak to Central is particularly exhilarating. Red minibuses tend to have a more Chinese feel than green buses. Prices on red minibuses are often displayed only in Chinese numbers. The price displayed on a red minibus can legally vary according to the market price, so expect to pay more at busy times. Some people argue that the driving standards of red minibuses is lower than green minibuses; Minibus drivers generally drive fast, especially at night. Always use minibus seatbelts where available. You will notice that they all have an extra, large, digital speedometer in the cabin for the passengers to view, this is required by the government after a few fatal accidents due to speeding. Since the introduction of these passenger speedometers mini-bus accident rates have dropped.

The MTR also maintains a fleet of feeder buses. MTR passengers can enjoy a free feeder service if the payment is made by Octopus. The route K16 is especially useful for tourists who need to go to Tsim Sha Tsui from the New Territories and mainland China by rail.

Note that if paying in cash, the exact fare is required and no change can be given. Paying by Octopus is much more convenient. The exception to this rule is if you use a red minibus, Octopus cards are not accepted on red minibus services, but they do give you change.

Route numbering is independent in six regions: bus on Hong Kong Island/ in Kowloon and in New Territories/ on Lantau Island, green minibus on Hong Kong Island/ in Kowloon/ in New Territories and several exceptional auxiliary buses route (red minibuses does not have a route number). This leads to duplication of routes in different regions. Although the Transport Department of Hong Kong Government has been working on the unifying of the route numbers, it is still a little bit messy at the moment. If you are confused a bit by the numbering of routes, here is a suggestion: just remember the route number of buses in Hong Kong Island/Kowloon/New Territories only whenever it is necessary. In other special circumstances, ask the driver or the station staff for the Lantau buses and green minibuses and they can answer you.

Generally you need not to mention which district the route belongs to when you are asking for directions (almost all people will assume you will asking for the route which runs in the district you are in, e.g. if you ask for bus route #2, locals will assume you will asking for bus route #2 running in Kowloon if you are in Kowloon), but you really need to mention whether the route is bus or minibus when you ask, since in some cases both bus and minibus can have same route number in the same area which are actually different routes. (e.g. there are both bus route #6 and minibus route #6 in Tsim Sha Tsui, which are actually different routes).

By ferry

A vast fleet of ferries plies between the many islands of Hong Kong. The granddaddy of them all and an attraction in itself is the Star Ferry [34], whose most popular line travels between Tsim Sha Tsui and Central from early morning until late at night, and offers amazing views (especially when coming from Tsim Sha Tsui). The Star Ferry is an icon of Hong Kong heritage and has carried passengers for over 120 years. Taking its eleven minute ride across the harbour and catching some misty breeze is considered a "must do" when visiting Hong Kong.

Upper deck seats cost $2.50 on weekdays and $3.00 on weekends while the lower deck cost $1.50 on weekdays and $1.80 on weekends, both payable with Octopus, cash (change given) or by onsite vending machine. The Star Ferry also operates between Tsim Sha Tsui and Wanchai but only offers upper-deck seating.

Ferries to Lamma, Lantau and other islands depart from a variety of ports, but the largest and most important terminal is at Central adjacent to the Star Ferry. Ferries are usually divided into fast ferries and slow ferries, with fast ferries charging around twice the price for half the journey time, although not all destinations offer both kinds of service. Example fares for trips from Central to Yung Shue Wan (Lamma) are $10/15 slow/fast, and to Mui Wo (Lantau) $10.50/$21. Note that all fares increase by around 50% on Sundays and public holidays.

By taxi

Taxis are plentiful, clean and efficient. They are quite cheap compared to many other large cities.

There are three types of taxi in Hong Kong, easily identified by their colours: red, green and blue, all of which serve the airport and Hong Kong Disneyland. The Urban (red) taxis can travel anywhere within Hong Kong, and also the most expensive. The meter starts at $18.00 for the first 2 kilometres, and a further $1.50 for every 200m thereafter, and $1.00 each ticking when the fare goes above $70.50. NT (green) taxis are slightly cheaper than the red ones but are fundamentally confined to rural areas in the New Territories, the airport, Hong Kong Disneyland. Lantau (blue) taxis (the cheapest of the three) operate only on Lantau Island (including the airport and Hong Kong Disneyland). Be particular cautious if you are choosing from one of the three kinds of taxis when you are finding your way out of the airport, though there is usually attendants there to assist you. When in doubt, just take a red taxi.

The wearing of seat belts is required by law, the driver has the right to refuse carrying the passenger if they fail to comply.

Tipping is usually not required or expected, however the driver will usually round the fare up to the nearest dollar. Drivers are required to provide change for $100 notes, but not for higher denominations. If you only have a $500 or $1000 note and are going through a tunnel, let the driver know beforehand and he will change it when paying at the toll booth.

There are no extra late-night charges nor peak-hour surcharges. However baggage carried in the boot ("trunk" if coming from North America) will cost you $5 per piece, except for wheelchairs. No charges are levied for travel to/from the airport or within downtown but all toll charges for tunnels are added to the bill. The driver will normally pay on your behalf at the toll booth and you just need to reimburse him before alighting.

Harbour crossing passengers (Hong Kong Island to Kowloon or vice versa) are expected to pay the return tolls. But you can use this to your advantage by picking a homebound taxi from a cross-harbour taxi rank in places like the Star Ferry pier or Hung Hom station. In these cross-harbour taxi stands only single toll charge will be applied to the taxi fare.

All taxi drivers are required to display inside the vehicle an official name card that includes the driver's photograph and the license plate number. Unless a taxi has an out of service sign displayed, they are legally required to take you to your destination. They are also required to provide you a receipt upon request. If you think you have been "toured" around the city, or if they refuse to either carry you to your destination or provide for a receipt, you may file a complain to the Transport Complaints Unit Complaint Hotline (Voice mail service after office hours) at 2889-9999.

All taxis are radio equipped and can be reserved and requested via an operator for a token fee of $5, payable to the driver. You are unlikely to need to call a taxi, though, as they are plentiful.

It is good practice to get a local person to write the name or address of your destination in Chinese for you to hand to the taxi driver, as many drivers speak limited English and Mandarin. For example, if you wish take a journey back to your hotel, ask a receptionist for the hotel's business card. Nevertheless, even if you don't, most taxi drivers know enough English to communicate the basics.

By car

Renting a car is almost unheard of in densely populated Hong Kong. With heavy traffic, a complex road network, as well as rare and expensive parking spaces and well-connected public transportation, renting a car is very unappealing. If you must, expect to pay over $600/day even for a small car. Hong Kong allows most foreigners to drive with an International Driving Permit (IDP). Anyone who drives for more than 12 months is required to get a Hong Kong license issued by the Department of Transportation.

Nevertheless, while there is public transport in the more remote areas, frequencies tend to be more limited, and you may have to wait for a long time to get a taxi. Therefore, driving should certainly not be dismissed out of hand, especially if you intend to spend a significant amount of time hiking and camping in the countryside.

Traffic rules are enforced seriously and penalty for breaking rules can be severe. Signs are written in both Chinese and English. Unlike mainland China, traffic in Hong Kong moves on the left, a part of its British legacy.

If you wish to drive to mainland China, your vehicle must have a second set of number plates issued by the Guangdong authorities. Their issues are limited to mainly investors and the price for a second hand plate can be as expensive as $300,000.

You will also need to acquire a mainland Chinese driving licence. Hong Kong, Macau or foreign licences will not be accepted. You will also need to change sides of the road at the border.

By bicycle

Bicycles are usually only seen as a substitute for short journeys and walking. This is especially so on Hong Kong Island and the busy parts of Kowloon, due to the heavy traffic, fast speed of vehicles, steep hills, narrow streets and an absence of bicycle lanes. A network of tarmac cycle tracks sprawl across the New Territories making it relatively easy to bike for longer distances.

There are also several mountain-bike trails in the Country Parks, although a permit is necessary to bring your bicycle into the parks. Visitors should comply with the Road User's Guide which is based on the United Kingdom Highway Code. If you plan to use busy urban roads you should be fit enough to keep up with the traffic, which moves surprisingly quickly.

Bike rental is available in several locations across the territory. Popular rental spots include Cheung Chau, Mui Wo (Lantau), Sha Tin, Tai Po Market, Tuen Mun and Ma On Shan. Rental fees are typically $20-30 a day for a standard entry-level mountain bike, or around $150 per day for a higher-spec mountain or road bike.

In general, although cycling is possible, Hong Kong is not a bicycle-friendly place because of its hilly landscapes, government policies, air pollution and a general lack of consideration by many motorists. Locals sometimes cycle on the pavements if they are not crowded, although most of time, pavements are too crowded even for pushing your bike.

Basic rules to follow:

1. Cyclists are not allowed by law to ride on highways and tunnels, which are well patrolled.

2. It is an offence to be drunk in charge of a bicycle.

3. By law, you're required to have a front and rear light.

4. Electronic bike conversion systems are not allowed. The police have a strict enforcement policy on this offence.

5. The maximum penalty for riding on pedestrian roads is $500 or a three month jail sentence. Usually offenders get a warning, but the Hong Kong Police do occasionally have an annual, or bi-annual crackdown.

6. For folding bike users, sometimes a bus driver will tell you that it's not allowed, but if you talk to them nicely they will usually let you board. A bicycle bag that makes your bike look like ordinary luggage can make your life a lot easier.

Bicycles on Public Transport

Folding bicycles are permitted on all public transport, provided that they are folded.

- MTR: Non-folding bikes are permitted on the Airport Express, Ma On Shan and East Rail Lines and require a half-fare ticket. They are forbidden on all other lines.

- Ferries: Bicycles are permitted on board slow ferries including the Star Ferry, but are not permitted on the Fast Ferries.

- Taxis: Most taxi drivers will carry bikes in the boot if the front wheel is removed. Some drivers will carry your bike for free, others will legitimately charge extra for 'excess baggage'.

By escalator

The world's longest outdoor escalator travels from Central through Soho to the residential developments of the Mid-levels. The escalator moves down in the morning rush hour but up the rest of the time, and using it is free — in fact, you can even get Octopus credits from machines along the way for being willing to use your feet!

The escalator cuts through some of the oldest streets found anywhere in Hong Kong, so if you are happy to take a chance and just wander and explore the back streets you are likely to find something of interest that dates back to colonial times. The immediate area to the east of the escalator was once reserved for the exclusive use of Chinese people.

Talk

For most Hong Kong people Cantonese is their mother tongue. It is more or less the same as the Cantonese spoken in Guangzhou, but the Hong Kong version tends to incorporate some English words and slang, which may sound strange to other Cantonese speakers. Cantonese is the lingua franca in many overseas Chinese communities and Guangdong and Guangxi province. Like all the other Chinese "dialects", Cantonese is a tonal language and definitely not easy for foreigners to master, but locals always appreciate any effort by visitors to speak the local lingo, so learning a few simple greetings will get you aquainted with locals much more easily.

Unlike Pinyin - standard romanization system for phoneticizing Mandarin, Cantonese so far hasn't developed a well recognized romanization system and local people seldom bother to learn them. However, some accurate phonetics system do exist for learners, such as the Yale system or Jyutpin. Like Taiwan, Hong Kong continues to use traditional Chinese characters and not simplified characters as used in the mainland, though almost all locals are able to read simplified Chinese. All official signs are bilingual in both Chinese (traditional) and English.

唔該; M̀h'gōi

Just one Cantonese word that will go a very long way in Hong Kong. Learn this word and you can use it to say please, thank you and excuse me. M̀h'gōi rhymes with boy and should be said with a cheery high tone rising at the end. Give it a go.

English is better understood and spoken by people in the tourist areas. As a second language, English is less well spoken compared to the likes of Singapore, Malaysia, India and the Philippines, although still used much more widely than in Thailand, mainland China, Korea and Japan. Education in English begins in kindergarten, and fluency in English is often a pre-requisite for securing a good job. As a result, English is spoken fluently by most professionals and business people. In contrast, English proficiency tends to be more limited among the average working class person, particularly outside the main tourist areas. In addition, while many people are able to understand written English pretty well, they may not necessarily be comfortable speaking it. Nevertheless, most locals under the age of 40, including many shopkeepers and taxi drivers, know enough English for basic communication. To improve your chances of being understood, speak slowly, stick to textbook-esque phrases and avoid using slang.

English remains an official language of the SAR and so government offices are required by law to have English-speaking staff on duty. There are two terrestrial English language TV stations: TVB Pearl and ATV World. English-language films in cinemas are almost always shown with the original soundtrack and Chinese subtitles, though children's films, especially animations, are often dubbed into Cantonese. British English is still widely used in Hong Kong, especially in government and legal documents. In the media, the South China Morning Post and both terrestrial TV channels use British English. Place names, such as Victoria Harbour (not Harbor) serve as a record of Hong Kong's colonial heritage. Also, modern buildings, such as the International Finance Centre (not Center) maintain the tradition of using British spellings.

It is also important to note that many English street names are seldom used among local people including those who can speak fluent English. Before you go to anywhere, ask hotel staff to write down the street names using Chinese characters.

Most locals are not fluent in Mandarin, but can comprehend it to some degree. As written Chinese is more or less the same regardless of the spoken variant, Mandarin speakers who are able to read and write in Chinese characters will be able to make themselves understood very easily. Mandarin is compulsory in all government schools, so many younger locals will be able to speak fairly decent, albeit heavily accented Mandarin. Mandarin proficiency has been improving rapidly since the handover, and tourists from the mainland are now the biggest spenders in Hong Kong, so almost all shops in the main tourist areas, as well as all government offices will have Mandarin-speaking staff on duty.

See

Almost no portrait of Hong Kong could be complete without its magnificent skyline. Best is to go to the Avenue of Stars at Tsim Sha Tsui or Victoria Peak. You may choose to take the Star Ferry [35] which runs frequently from Tsim Sha Tsui, Central, Wan Chai, Kowloon City, and Hung Hom.

Itineraries

- The Wikitravel itinerary A week near Hong Kong has suggestions for travel from Hong Kong to nearby destinations.

- Another itinerary Overland Kunming to Hong Kong covers one route to or from Hong Kong.

- Hong Kong Culinary Tour gives a short tour to discover the unique cuisine of Hong Kong.

Guided walk

Hong Kong Tourism Board [36] offers many walking tours. Starting from 1 October 2010, the following participation fees have been implemented:

- Duk Ling Ride $100 per person

- Architecture Walk $200 per person

- Chinese Cake-Making Class $30 per person.

Victoria Peak

Get a stunning view of Hong Kong Island on Victoria Peak atop the giant, wok-shaped Peak Tower! Ever since the dawn of British colonisation, the Peak hosted the most exclusive neighbourhood for the territory's richest residents, where local Chinese weren't permitted to live until after World War II.

At the Peak, the Peak Tower serves not only as an observation platform, it also doubles as a shopping mall offering shops, fine dining and museums. The Peak Tram runs from Central to the bottom of the Peak Tower. Although views of Kowloon and Victoria Harbour can be stunning, be prepared for the view to be spoilt by air pollution. There is no point in spending extra money to visit the observation deck of the Peak Tower. There are a number of nice walks around the Peak Tower that offers similar, if not nicer, views of all sides of the island. You will be able to catch a laser show at 8PM every night.

Although the Peak Tram offers a direct route to The Peak, a more picturestque and cheaper (though slower) way of reaching it is by taking bus 15 (not 15C) from the Star Ferry pier in Central. Not only is it cheaper but, as the bus snakes up the mountain, you can enjoy beautiful views of both sides of Hong Kong island and passing the territory's priciest neighbourhoods.

Horse racing

The racing season runs from September to June, during which time racings take place twice weekly, with the location alternating between Shatin in the New Territories and Happy Valley near Causeway Bay MTR station. Both racing locations are easily accessible by MTR but Happy Valley is the more convenient, historic and impressive location (although live races only take place here on Wednesday nights). For only a $10 entrance fee, a night in Happy Valley can be filled with rowdy entertainment. Get a local Chinese gambler to explain the betting system to you and then drink the cheap draft beer. Be sure to pick up the Racing Post section in the South China Morning Post on Wednesday to guide you. A beer garden with racing commentary in English is available at Happy Valley near the finishing line where many expatriates congregate during the races. One good tip: bring your passport and get in at the tourist rate of just $1.

Betting can also be placed at any of 100+ branches of the Hong Kong Jockey Club. Expect long lines and big crowds. The Hong Kong Jockey Club is a nonprofit charitable organization and the only institution permitted to conduct legal horse-racing in the territory.

Be aware that horse racing is a religion in Hong Kong with live broadcasts over the radio. Large segments of the adult population will place bets and there will be no shortage of racing tips from punters. Just remember that when people are listening to the races, whether in a taxi or restaurant or on the streets, expect no conversation or business to transpire for the 1-2 minute duration of the race.

Local life

The most effective way to know how Hong Kong people live is to observe the local life of an ordinary Hong Kong resident. Just wander and observe - and don't worry - most areas in town are safe.

Traditional heritage

There are many traditional heritage locations throughout Hong Kong.

In New Territories you will find Ping Shan Heritage Trail passing by some of the most important ancient sights, the walled Hakka village of Tsang Tai Uk, Fu Shin Street Traditional Bazaar as well as a number of temples including Che Kung Temple, Man Mo Temple and the Temple of Ten Thousand Buddhas. In Kowloon you will find the Kowloon Walled City Park at the location of the former Kowloon walled city. And on Lantau you will find the Stilt houses in Tai O, Po Lin Monastery and the Tien Tan Buddha Statue.

Museums

There are a variety of museums in Hong Kong with different themes, arguably the best museum is the Hong Kong Museum of History in Kowloon, which gives an excellent overview of Hong Kong's fascinating past. Not the typical pots-behind-glass format of museums you find elsewhere in China. Innovative galleries such as a mock-up of a colonial era street make history come to life. Allow about two hours to view everything in detail.

Kowloon also includes a number of other interesting museums including Dialogue in the Dark, which is an exhibition in complete darkness where you should use your non-visual senses with the help of a visually impaired guide, Hong Kong Museum of Art, which is a fascinating, strange and elusive place exhibiting Chinese ceramics, terracotta, rhinoceros horn and Chinese paintings as well as contemporary art produced by Hong Kong artists, Hong Kong Science Museum, primarily aimed at children, and Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Centre.

Central also has its share of museums including Dr Sun Yat-sen Museum, Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences, which shows how the healthcare system evolved from traditional Chinese medicine to modern Western medicine, and Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre.

New Territories has the Hong Kong Heritage Museum, which will appeal to those who have a serious interest in Chinese culture, and the Hong Kong Railway Museum.

Nature

Contrary to popular belief, Hong Kong is not all skyscrapers and it is worthwhile to go to the countryside (over 70% of Hong Kong), including the country parks [37] and marine parks [38]. Many are surprised to find that Hong Kong is actually home to some stunning landscapes and breathtaking scenery.

- Lantau Island is twice as big as Hong Kong island and is well worth checking out if you want to get away from the bright lights and pollution of the city for a spell. Here you will find open countryside, traditional fishing villages, secluded beaches, monasteries and more. You can hike, camp, fish and mountain bike, amongst other activities.

- In the waters just off Tung Chung on Lantau Island, live the Chinese White Dolphins. These dolphins are naturally pink and live in the wild, but their status is currently threatened, with it current population estimated to be between 100-200.

- The Sai Kung Peninsula in New Territories is also a worthwhile place to visit. Its mountainous terrain and spectacular coastal scenery make this a special place. There are both challenging and more relaxed routes.

- Hong Kong Wetland Park in New Territories is a relaxing park set amidst an ecological mitigation area. One can stroll along a network of board walks or explore the large visitors centre/museum.

- North East New Territories is also famous for its natural environment. Yan Chau Tong Marine Park is in the North East New Territories. A few traditional abandoned villages are connected with hiking trails in the territory. North East New Territories is one of the famous hiking hot spot for the locals.

- Short hiking trails (2 hours) can be found on Hong Kong Island and the New Territories. You can even hike up to the Victoria Peak.

- There are some outlying islands also worth to visit, e.g.: Lamma Island, Cheung Chau, Ping Chau, Tap Mun, Tung Lung Island.

Theme parks

- Hong Kong Disneyland Resort opened in September, 2005. It is on Lantau Island, about 12km east of Hong Kong International Airport. The resort also features a Disneyland park, two resort hotels and a lake recreation centre. Though significantly smaller in size than other Disneyland-style parks elsewhere, it does offer some great attractions and short queues most of the year (except the week of Chinese New Year, Halloween, Easter and Christmas season).

- Ocean Park is on the southern side of Hong Kong island, and is the park that grew up with many local Hong Kong people. With roller coasters and large aquariums altogether, it is still packed on weekends with families and tourists. The cablecar is an icon. For many, the chance to see Hong Kong's pandas would be a deciding factor. Young adults will be attracted to the wider range of rides.

- Ngong Ping 360 on Lantau Island is a Buddhist themed park that features Imperial Chinese architecture, interactive shows, demonstrations, restaurants and coffee shops. The highlight of this trip is the longest cable car ride in Hong Kong that affords stunning views. The ride also takes you to the largest outdoor seated Buddha.

Seeing different sides of Hong Kong by Public Transport

Travelling on a bus or a tram is ideal for looking at different sides of Hong Kong. Not only it is cheap to ride on a bus or a tram, it also allows you to see completely different lifestyles in different districts in a short time. Below are some recommended routes.

Bus

- KMB Route 270A.[39] starts from the downtown in Jordan, Kowloon. It goes along Peninsular Kowloon and heads through the New Territories. Then it goes into Sha Tin. Afterwards it goes through Tai Po Road, where you can see many traditional Chinese villages and the scenic Chinese University of Hong Kong. The bus further goes to Tai Po and you can see the traditional Market. After Tai Po, the bus again passes through the countryside and eventually reaches its terminus at Sheung Shui (below Landmark North), which is near the Hong Kong - Shenzhen boundary. The journey takes 80 minutes and costs $13 for the whole journey with a air-conditioned bus. The TST Eastbound train back to the city can be taken from Sheung Shui.

- NWFB Route 15 [40] starts from Central (Exchange Square) to The Peak. It is an alternative way for getting to The Peak by bus rather than by Peak Tram. Your journey to Hong Kong will not be complete unless you have visited the Victoria Peak. You can see the beautiful view of Hong Kong Island, Victoria Habour and Kowloon Peninsula along the Stubbs road during the journey. When you arrive, there are two shopping malls: The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, which provide restaurants, a supermarket, and souvenir shops for your convenience. In addition, you can visit the infamous Madame Tussauds Hong Kong [41] and see if the mannequins look to be the real deal. Direction: you can take MTR and get off at Hong Kong station. You can approach Hong Kong station by the underpass from Central station. After that, follow the exit B1 to Exchange Square and you will see the bus terminus. You can also get off at Admiralty station. Then, follow the C1 exit towards Queensway Plaza. Make a right after you exit the station, and you will see the bus stop. After you get on the bus, just stay on until it arrives to The Peak bus terminus. The bus fare is $9.8 and it takes about 30 minutes for the journey.

- Citybus Route 973 [42] Route 973 starts from the Tsim Sha Tsui East Bus Terminus which is located at the Concordia Plaza, which is directly opposite the Science Museum at Science Museum Road. It goes along Salisbury Road, where the Avenue of Stars, The Space Museum and the Art Museum is located. Later it goes to University of Hong Kong, which is the most prominent and the oldest university in Hong Kong after crossing the Western Harbour Crossing. It later pass through the country side of the southern part of Hong Kong [43]. It will reach the Hong Kong southern side, where the Jumbo/Tai Pak Floating Restaurant [44] is located at Aberdeen. Not long after, the bus passes through a football field, which is a 5-10 minutes walk to the Ocean Park. Finally, the bus passes through the beautiful sandy beach of Repulse Bay, before it actually arrive its terminus station at Stanley Village, where the famous Murray House and the Stanley Village Market is located. The fare is $13.6 and it takes about 95 minutes for the journey.

- Citybus Route H1, H2

These two are rickshaw-themed double deckers going to main heritage spots on Hong Kong Island, such as LegCo in Central and the University of Hong Kong. A day pass cost $50, and you can hop on and hop off at any stop.

Tram

- Take a tram journey on Hong Kong Island.

The tram system refers to is Hong Kong Tramways [45], a slow yet special form of transport running on Hong Kong Island. It has been operating since 1904 and is an obvious relic of the British administration. A trip on a tram is a perfect way to have a leisurely tour around Hong Kong Island's major streets and to have a glimpse of the local life. Fares are relatively cheap, just two dollars per trip for an adult and one dollar for Senior citizens (age 65 or older) and children.

It is recommended to ride from as far as Kennedy Town in the west, to as far as Shau Kei Wan in the east, in order to get a strong contrast of "East meets West" and "Old meets New".

A new, modern, tram system operates in the north west New Territories and serves New Towns between Yuen Long and Tuen Mun. Few tourists will be inspired by these trams but they may appeal to trainspotters.

Avenue of Stars and A Symphony of Lights

Hong Kong's version of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, the Avenue of Stars [46] celebrates icons of Hong Kong cinema from the past century. The seaside promenade offers fantastic views, day and night, of Victoria Harbour and its iconic skyline. This is the place to have your picture taken by a professional photographer who is experienced in night photography. The Avenue can be reached from the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station or the Star Ferry.

The Avenue of the Stars is also a great place to see A Symphony of Lights [47], a spectacular light and laser show synchronised to music and staged every night at 8:00PM. This is the world's "Largest Permanent Light and Sound Show" as recognised by the Guinness World Records. On Monday, Wednesday and Friday, the light show is in English. On Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday it is in Mandarin. On Sunday it is in Cantonese. While at the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, spectators can tune their radios to FM103.4 MHz for English narration, FM106.8 MHz for Cantonese or FM107.9 for Mandarin. The same soundtrack can be accessed via mobile phones at 35665665 for the English version where normal telephone rates apply. However, whilst the show is not such a big deal, during festival times the light show is supplemented by fireworks that are worth seeing.

Do

Festivals

- Chinese (Lunar) New Year (農曆新年). Although this may seem like an ideal time to go to Hong Kong, many shops and restaurants close down during the Chinese New Year, so visitors will not see Hong Kong at its best. However, unlike Christmas in Europe where you can hardly find shops open on this big day, supermarkets and convenience stores remain open, so you can still get food and daily products easily during the Lunar New Year period. The week or two leading up to the Chinese New Year as well as the period just after the third day up to the fifteenth day are good times to soak up the festive mood and listen to Chinese New Year songs being played in the shops.

- Spring Lantern Festival (元宵節). If you go to Victoria Park in Causeway Bay, you will be able to experience this traditional Chinese festival. A number of beautiful lanterns can be found in the park at this time.

- Ching Ming Festival (清明節). This festival in Spring is also known as grave sweeping day. To show respect to the deceased, family members go to the grave of their ancestors to sweep away leaves and remove weeds around the grave area. Paper offerings are also burned, such as fake money.

- Cheung Chau Bun Festival (長洲太平清醮). This is takes place on the tiny island of Cheung Chau. In the past the festival has involved competitions with people climbing bun towers to snatch buns. After the unfortunate collapse of a bun tower in 1978, due to an overload of people, the competition was abandoned. It was resumed again in 2005 with better safety measures.

- Tuen Ng Festival (端午節). This is a festival in memory of a national hero from the Spring and Autumn Period of Chinese history. Dragon boat races are typically held during this festival and glutinous rice dumplings, usually with pork fillings, are eaten by many.

- Hungry Ghost Festival (中元節). This festival runs throughout the seventh month of the Chinese calendar. It is believed that the gates of hell open during this period and hungry ghosts are allowed to roam freely into our world. Though not a public holiday, this is the time where one can see many people perform various rites to appease the wandering ghosts, such as offering food and burning joss paper. One can also see traditional performances such as Chinese opera which are held to appease these ghosts.

- Mid Autumn Festival / Moon Festival (中秋節). This festival is celebrated on the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month. Moon cakes which contain lotus seed paste and duck egg yolks are a popular delicacy. Many Western people will find the traditional mooncake hard to appreciate, so you might like to try the ice-cream version as well. The festival is also known as the lantern festival and various parts of Hong Kong will be festooned with decorative lanterns which set the night scene ablaze with colour.

- Chung Yeung Festival (重陽節). Is a day also known as Autumn Remembrance, which is similar to Ching Ming in spring, where families visit the graves of their ancestors to perform cleansing rites and pay their respects. As the weather cools down during this part of the year, hiking is a good activity to do during this holiday.

- Halloween (萬聖節). Halloween has grown rapidly in popularity and many people dress up to party till late. Trick or treat is not common but most restaurants and shopping centres are decorated and have special programmes. For young adults and teenagers, Ocean Park and Disneyland is the place to be for Halloween fun. It is not a public holiday.

- Christmas (聖誕節). Christmas is celebrated Hong Kong style. The city is adorned using traditional Western Christmas decorations. Many shopping centres, such as Pacific Place, offer ample opportunities for children to meet Santa. Most shops and restaurants remain open throughout Christmas. You should expect large crowds out shopping for the Christmas sales.

- New Year's Eve (元旦除夕). New Year's Eve in Hong Kong is something to check out if you are seeking a carnival experience. Hundreds of thousands of people out on the streets to celebrate the New Year is truly an unforgettable time. There are all-night services on the MTR, night-buses, and of course, many taxis. Fireworks go off on the harbour front, which a lot of people attend to watch on both sides of the harbour: Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon side) and Central (Hong Kong Island). The young adults and older adults decide to party with the rest of Hong Kong at the hot-spots such as Causeway Bay, Lan Kwai Fong and Tsim Sha Tsui. Many people dress up and attend private parties and others flock to the streets to enjoy the atmosphere. Police patrol around popular areas to make sure the city is a safe party-zone. Hong Kong people are not great drinkers and most of them stay dry for the night. Drinking alcohol on the street is uncommon. So visitors who drink should moderate their behaviour or risk being screened out by the police as the only drunks in the crowd.

Exploring

Ride the tram between Kennedy Town and Shau Kei Wan. The journey takes round 80 minutes and costs $2. The Hongkong Tramways run between the West and East of Hong Kong Island. Starting from the old district Kennedy Town, you can see the residental areas, followed by the Chinese herbal medicine and dried seafood wholesalers in Sai Ying Pun - Sheung Wan. Then the tram goes in the famous Central district with high rise commercial buildings and banks. Wan Chai and Causeway Bay are the districts popular with shoppers and are always crowded with people at all times. Travelling further east are North Point and Shau Kei Wan areas, which are of completely different styles from that in Central and Causeway Bay.

Music

Hong Kong is one of the main centres of Chinese pop culture with a huge and vibrant entertainment industry, and is home to many famous singers and actors such as Jackie Chan, Andy Lau, Wong Ka Kui (Beyond), Tony Leung Chiu-Wai and locally Eason Chan, just to name a few. In addition to the locals, any foreign bands touring Asia are pretty much guaranteed to perform in Hong Kong, and concerts by famous singers are often a sell out affair.

Beaches

You are never far from the sea in Hong Kong and going to a good beach is only a bus-ride away. However, if you want a really good beach, then it is worth making the effort to travel, possibly on foot, and seek out the beaches of the New Territories. With more than 200 outlying islands, as well as an extensive coastline that is jam-packed with impressive bays and beaches, you will surely come across some good looking beaches to while the whole day away. Hong Kong's urban beaches are usually well maintained and have services such as showers and changing rooms. Where beaches are managed by the Leisure and Cultural Services Dept. shark nets and life guards are present. Dogs and smoking are not permitted on these beaches.

The best beaches to use include:

Repulse Bay is a large urban beach on the south side of Hong Kong island. It has recently had money spent on its facilities and will appeal to those who have young children.

Middle Bay is popular with gay people and is a 20 minute walk from the crowds at Repulse Bay. Middle Bay has lifeguards, showers, changing rooms, shark nets and a decent cafe serving drinks and snacks.

Shek O is a beach popular with many young Hong Kong people. It is away from the bustle of the city but is well served by restaurants and has a good bus service from the north side of the island. The Thai restaurant close to the beach is worth a try.

Big Wave Bay This beach is smaller than others on Hong Kong Island but still has good services which include a number of small cafes close to the beach. Big Wave Bay, as the name suggests, has the sort of waves that appeal to surfers. From Big Wave Bay it is possible to take the coastal footpath to Chai Wan where you can find the MTR and buses. The walk to Chai Wan is about one hour, or more if you are not used to the steep climb up the mountain.

Hung Shing Yeh Beach is highly regarded as the most popular beach and is located on Lamma Island. This beach is Grade 1 and shows off powdery, fine sand as well as clear water. This beach is well-appointed by means of changing facilities, a barbecue area, and a refreshment kiosk. To arrive at this beach, take the ferryboat from Central Pier to Yung Shue Wan. Expect to walk around 20 minutes from the ferry terminal to the beach (buses and taxis are not an option on Lamma).

Swimming Pools

If your hotel does not have a pool or you have concerns about swimming in the sea, then public swimming baths are a great place to cool off when the heat and the humidity is too much to bear. Swimming pools are built and maintained to a very high standard in Hong Kong and cost very little to use ($19 for adults and $9 children). Swimming pools are ideal places for young children to play and most pools cater for their needs with shallow pools and fountains. All swimming pool complexes offer swimming lanes and most have swimming clubs for serious swimmers.

The Kowloon Park swimming pool complex (Tsim Sha Tsui MTR exit A1) is centrally located and offers visitors a wide range of services. Indoors is a main pool that is Olympic sized, a slightly smaller training pool, a diving pool and a leisure pool for younger swimmers. During the summer months the indoor pools are air-conditioned, whilst in winter the water is heated. Outdoors, during the summer season, they have four leisure pools to meet the needs of all ages. In summer, the pool is popular with teenagers but all age-groups make good use of the pools. A limited number of sun loungers are available.

The pools in Kowloon Park open at 6:30AM and close at 10PM. There are session breaks when the centre closes for lunch at 12PM until 1PM and then it closes for another hour from 5PM to 6PM. Most public pools in Hong Kong have similar opening and closing times with session breaks.

Family changing rooms are available in addition to the regular changing rooms. Males and females have separate changing areas but changing rooms do not offer much privacy between users of the same sex. Swimmers are expected to provide their own towels and toiletries. A $5 coin is needed to operate a locker or you can provide your own padlock (you can get back the $5 coin after you unlock the locker, its right behind the keyhole). An Octopus card or coins are needed for payment to enter the complex.

There are six public pools on Hong Kong island and a further 12 are located across the Kowloon peninsula. More pools of the same high standard are to be found in the New Territories. The pool located in Victoria Park is perhaps the least good because of its ageing facilities and close proximity to a major elevated highway.

Sailing

You can rent out a Junk Boat for a sailing trip with your family and friends. A typical junk boat can accommodate more than 30 people and can be rented for the day to take you on a tour of your choice. Sai Kung is a popular spot for the trip to start and you can sail to nearby beaches for a more secluded time. A cheaper alternative is to hire a much smaller water taxi (水道) to take you to where you want to go.

Hiking and Camping

Hiking is the best kept secret in Hong Kong, it is a great way to appreciate Hong Kong's beautiful landscapes that include mountains, beaches and breathtaking cityscapes. The starting points for many hiking trails are accessible by bus or taxi. Hiking is highly recommended for active travellers who want to escape the modern urban world.

Hiking in Hong Kong can be strenuous because of the steep trails, and during the summer months, mosquitos and the hot, humid, weather combine to make even the easiest trek a workout. It is highly recommended that you wear suitable clothes, and bring plenty of water and mosquito repellent. It is fairly unlikely that you will have a close encounter with venomous snakes, although they are present in most rural areas. Most local people choose the winter months to undertake the more demanding hiking trails. If you are not especially fit you might plan your route so that you take a bus or taxi to the highest point of the trail and then walk downhill.

Campsites in Hong Kong are plentiful and free of charge. Most are located within the country parks and range from basic sites serviced with only with a drop-toilet, to those that provide campers with modern toilet blocks with cold showers. Some sites have running water and sinks for washing dishes. A few campsites have places to buy drinking water and food, whilst many are serenely remote. Weekends and public holidays are predictably busy, especially in the more accessible places close to roads. Many Hong Kong people like to camp in large groups, talk loudly and stay awake until very late, so if you are noise sensitive try to find a remote campsite or learn to keep your temper.

There are four major trails in the Hong Kong SAR:

- Lantau Trail on Lantau.

- Hong Kong Trail on Hong Kong Island.

- Maclehose Trail through the New Territories. Oxfam organizes an annual charity hike of this 100Km trail every November. Winning teams finish in around 11-12 hours but average people take 30-36 hours to finish the whole trail, which starts from the eastern end of the New Territories (Sai Kung) to the western end (Tuen Mun).

- Wilson Trail starting on Hong Kong Island and finishing in the New Territories.

Hong Kong has some exceptional rural landscapes but visitor impact is an issue. Please respect the countryside by taking your litter home with you. Avoid using litter bins in remote areas as these are not emptied on a regular basis and your litter may be strewn around by hungry animals.

Hong Kong Outdoors [48] is packed with information on hiking and camping, and other great things to do and places to go in the wilderness areas of Hong Kong.

Gambling

Horse racing may get all the media attention, but mahjong (麻雀 ma jeuk) also forms an integral part of Hong Kong gambling culture. Mahjong also has had a strong influence on Hong Kong pop culture, with a history of songs and films based on a mahjong theme. The game played in Hong Kong is the Cantonese version, which differs in rules and scoring from the Japanese version or the versions played in other parts of China. Mahjong parlours are ubiquitous in Hong Kong, though they do not advertise their services openly and many require a fair amount of effort to find. They also have many unwritten rules that visitors may find hard to understand.

Betting on world-wide football matches is also available at the Hong Kong Jockey Club.

Learn

Education is taken very seriously in Hong Kong and the territory has a total 9 universities, of which the University of Hong Kong, Chinese University of Hong Kong and Hong Kong University of Science and Technology are considered to be world class and attract students from far and wide. Most of these universities have exchange agreements with foreign universities, and these are a good way for one to experience living in Hong Kong for up to a year if your university has an exchange agreement with one of them. Courses for exchange students are often conducted in English.

Visitors to Hong Kong will soon notice that school children wear 'British-style' uniforms that have been adapted to the sub-tropical climate. It is a tradition for school students to sell 'flags' and collect money for charity on a Saturday morning.

Cantonese

Hong Kong, together with nearby Macau, are the only places in the world where Cantonese is still the medium of instruction in schools. Some of the universities in Hong Kong offer Cantonese lessons for foreigners, and these are a good way for those living in Hong Kong for an extended period of time to learn the local language. Like Taiwan and Macau, but unlike mainland China, the script taught is traditional Chinese.

Work

You will need an employment visa in Hong Kong to take up any paid employment, even if you are from Britain or mainland China. This usually involves any potential employer making an application to the Immigration Department on your behalf; crucially you should have skills that are probably not available from the local job market. In June 2006 the Immigration Department revived a rule that allows the spouse of anyone currently working legally in Hong Kong to get a "dependent visa". This allows the spouse to take up any employment they wish, without having to seek approval from the Immigration Department. Unfortunately, a dependent visa is not available if the spouse is from mainland China, unless they have been living abroad for more than one year.

In 2006, the Hong Kong government introduced a new program called the Quality Migrant Application Scheme which targets skilled, preferably university educated, labour with good knowledge of languages to come and settle in Hong Kong and seek for employment. For more information, visit the Hong Kong Immigration website[49]. Hong Kong does feature a small ESL market, teachers will typically need a Bachelor`s Degree and a TESOL certification. ESL teachers in Hong Kong can expect to earn $12,000 - $25,000 (monthly) and will usually teach 30 – 40 hours in a week. Contracts will sometimes include accommodation and airfare.

Young people between 18 and 30 years old who are citizens of Australia, Canada, Germany, Ireland, Japan, New Zealand and South Korea are eligible to apply for a 12 month working holiday visa, allowing them to take up temporary work in Hong Kong. Visit the Immigration Department's website [50] for more information.

Buy

The Hong Kong dollar (港幣 or HKD) is the territory's official currency and is the unit of currency used throughout this travel guide. In Chinese, one dollar is known formally as the yuen (圓) and colloquially as the men (蚊) in Cantonese. You can safely assume that the '$' sign used in the territory refers to HKD unless it includes other initials (e.g. US$ to stand for US Dollar). The HKD is also widely accepted in Macau in lieu of their home currency at a 1:1 rate.

The official exchange rate is fixed at 7.80 HKD to 1 USD, although bank rates may fluctuate slightly. When exchanging currency at a big bank, be prepared to pay a small fixed commission, usually about $40 per transaction. If exchanging large amounts, this commission will have a negligible impact on the transaction. If exchanging small amounts, it may be advantageous to exchange at one of many independent exchange shops found in tourist areas. Although their exchange rates compared with big banks are slightly less favourable for you, most do not charge a commission. They may also be more convenient and faster ways to exchange (no queues, located in shopping centres, open 24 hours, etc.). However, be wary of using independent exchangers outside banking hours because, without competition from big banks, their rates may become very uncompetitive.

Avoid changing money at the airport as well as the hotel since the rates there are extremely uncompetitive.

Many tourists opt to use their ATM debit cards instead of carrying cash or traveller's cheques. Using this method, the exchange rates and fees are comparable to exchanging cash at big banks. However, some smaller banks do not accept ATM cards from overseas customers. The best banks for foreign tourists to use are HSBC, Hang Seng and Standard Chartered, and ATM machines from those banks are widespread. Also, be mindful of withdrawal limits imposed by your bank.

The Hong Kong Monetary Authority (HKMA) issues the new purple plastic $10 notes while the rest are issued by three banks (the Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation, also known as the 'Hong Kong bank', Standard Chartered Bank and Bank of China). The old green paper $10 notes issued by HSBC and Standard Chartered Bank remain legal tender. The style of notes varies a lot between banks though the colour and size are about the same for notes of the same denomination. The larger the denomination, the larger the size of the banknotes. Banknotes come in denominations of:

- $10, green or purple (paper or plastic).

- $20, dark blue or light blue (old or new).

- $50, purple or green (old or new).

- $100, red.

- $500, brown.

- $1000, gold.

Some shops do not accept $1000 notes due to counterfeiting concerns.

The coins come in units of

- $10, in bronze/silver, circular.

- $5, in silver, circular, thicker.

- $2, in silver, wavey-circular.

- $1, in silver, circular, thinner.

- 50¢, in bronze, circular, larger.

- 20¢, in bronze, wavey-circular.

- 10¢, in bronze, circular, smaller.

varying in a descending size (except $10 coin).

Since September 1997, the use of the small coins and change has been reduced due to the innovation of the Octopus card. Originally used just for fare payment for the MTR and buses, it now is used all over the city, for purchases in any amount at convenience stores, fast food restaurants, pharmacies, vending machines, etc.

Automated Teller Machines (ATM's) are common in urban areas. They usually accept VISA, MasterCard, and to certain degree UnionPay. Maestro and Cirrus cards are widely accepted also. They dispense $100, $500 or rarely $1000 notes depending on the request. Credit card use is common in most shops for major purchases. Most retailers accept VISA and MasterCard, and some accept American Express as well. Maestro debit cards however are not widely accepted by retailers. Signs with the logo of different credit cards are usually displayed at the door to indicate which cards are accepted. For small purchases, in places such as McDonalds or 7-Eleven, cash or Octopus Card is the norm though some of these outlets can accept credit cards for smaller purchases. Sometimes, the merchant can give you a choice of whether to charge your credit card purchase directly to your home currency or Hong Kong dollars. Choosing which currency to directly charge the purchase to won't matter for small amounts but for larger purchases it may be worth it to consult your credit card's policy on them converting foreign exchange transactions.

Merchants will require that the credit cards be signed and will compare your signature with the card and do not ask for picture ID. The 'chip and pin' system for credit card authorisation is not used in Hong Kong.

Foreigners may open bank accounts in Hong Kong, though a proof of address is required. As your passport usually does not show your address, you should also bring something that shows your address such as an ID card or a bank statement.

Costs

Hong Kong is expensive by Asian standards especially the cost of accommodation. A traveller on a bare bones budget can probably survive with $150 for a day if you are willing to stay in some of the cheapest accommodation in Hong Kong which could be as cheap as $60 per bed but the quality is not what everyone can tolerate.

Backpackers with a less tight budget should expect to spend at least $150 for a bed and $500 for a room. Family travellers should expect to pay at least $1000 for accommodation per night.

The cheapest food available will cost you around $30-40 for a meal, although in mid-range restaurants, $150-200 per head is common.

Tipping

Tipping is only practiced in limited situations by local people and it's not expected for every little service such as a taxi driver, or a waiter. People will not reject any tips you care to hand them. Tipping is a matter of personal choice, but visitors should take into account that locals usually do not leave a tip. Visitors should also know that it is common for bar and restaurant owners to keep some, or all, of the money given as tips.

In cheaper joints, tipping is not expected at all and it will be considered unusual not to take all your change. In medium-to-upmarket restaurants, a 10% service charge is often compulsorily added to your bill and this is usually regarded as the tip. You may wish to tip on top of the service charge for good service, but it is neither complusory nor expected. It is also common for midrange Chinese restaurants to give you peanuts, tea and towels and add a small charge to the bill. Known as "cha-sui money" (money for tea and water) it is considered to be common practice. So, unless the charge is excessive, tourists should accept it as part of the cost of the meal. Sometimes, restaurants will deliberately give customers change in coins, when bills should be given; it is your choice to either take all your change or leave a small tip.

Tipping is not expected in taxis but passengers will often round up the fare to the nearest dollar. During a typhoon, when any loss is not covered by insurance, a tip will be expected, or the taxi driver will ask you to pay a surcharge. In hotels, a guest is also expected to tip at least $10-20 for room service, and porters also expect $10-20 for carrying your bags. Bathroom attendants in luxury restaurants and clubs might also expect you to leave a few coins, but it's socially acceptable not to tip.

Exceptionally, on important occasions, such as a wedding party or similar big gala event, local people do tip substantially more than ten percent of the total bill. The money is put into a red envelope and given to the manager.

Shop

Fierce competition, no sales tax and some wealthy consumers all add up to make Hong Kong an excellent destination for shopping. Choices are plentiful at competitive price. Lookout for watches, camping equipment, digital items and special cosmetics.

Popular shopping items include consumer electronics, custom clothing, shoes, camping equipment, jewellery, expensive brand name goods, Chinese antiques, toys and Chinese herbs/medicine. There's also a wide choice of Japanese, Korean, American and European clothing and cosmetics but price are generally higher than in their respective home countries.

Most shops in Hong Kong's urban areas open at about 10AM until 10PM to midnight every day. High rental costs in Hong Kong, ranked second worldwide according to Forbes, makes it no surprise that the best bargain shops could be located anywhere except the ground floor. Shops recommended by local people may even be up on the 20th floor in a building that won't give you a hint that it's a place for shopping.

Many shops will accept credit cards. In accepting credit cards, the merchant will look carefully at the signature rather than looking at picture ID. In addition, merchants will not accept credit cards with a different name that the person presenting it. All shops that accept credit cards and many that don't, will also accept debit cards and ATM cards as payment. The term used for debit card payment is EPS.

In the old days, Hong Kong was a good place to buy cheap knockoff, fake products, and pirated videos and software. Today, Hong Kong residents often buy these items in Shenzhen just across the border in mainland China.

Be careful when shopping at stores that have neon-lighted signs of famous brands. Some have complained about the products they purchased from there.

Antiques and Arts- Head for Hollywood Road and Loscar Road in Central. Here you will find a long street of shops with a wide selection of products that look like antiques. Some items are very good fakes, so make sure you know what you are buying. Try Star House near the Star Ferry pier in Tsim Sha Tsui for more expensive items.

Books- Hong Kong houses a fair choice of English books, Japanese, French titles, and huge range of uncensored Chinese tiles . Prices are usually higher than where they import but it is your last hope to look for your books before heading to China. Try Swindon Books [51] on Lock Road in Tsim Sha Tsui and Page One [52] in Times Square (Causeway Bay) and Festival Walk (Kowloon Tong). Dymocks, an Australian bookshops, has eleven stores, including in IFC and the Princes Building. For French books, visit Librairie Parentheses on Wellington Street in Central and Japanese books are sold in Sogo Shopping Mall in Causeway bay. The biggest local bookshop chain is the Commercial Press and usually have a cheaper but limited English titles. For looking for Chinese books, local people's beloved bookshops are all along Sai Yeung Choi Street. Called Yee Lau Sue Den (Bookshop on second floor), they hided themselves in the upper floor of old buildings and offered an unbeatable discount on all books.

Cameras- Reputable camera stores are located mainly in Central, Tsim Sha Tsui and Mongkok but tourist traps do exist, especially in Tsim Sha Tsui. The basic rule is to avoid all the shops with flashing neon signs along Nathan Road and look for a shop with plenty of local, non-tourist, customers. Only use recommended shops, as shops such as those on Nathan Road are likely to disappear on your next visit to Hong Kong. For easy shopping, get an underground train to Mongkok and head to Sai Yeung Choi Street, where you might find some of the best deals. The Mong Kok Computer Centre and Galaxy Mall (Sing Jai) are always packed with local people. Several camera shops like Man-Sing and Yau-Sing are known for their impolite staff but have a reputation for selling at fair prices. In the 1990s and early 2000s, most shops didn't allow much bargaining, but this has changed since 2003 with the influx of tourists from mainland China. While it is hard to tell how much discount you should ask for, if a shop can give you more than 25-30% discount, local people tend to believe that it's too good to be true, unless it's a listed seasonal sale.

Computers- The base price of computer equipment in Hong Kong is similar to those in other parts of the world, but there are substantial savings to be hand from the lack of sales tax or VAT.

The Wanchai Computer Centre, Mongkok Computer Centre and Golden Computer Arcade on Sham Shui Po are all a few steps away from their corresponding MTR stations. Also electronic equipment is available at the large chain stores such as Broadway and Fortress which are located in the large malls. The major chain stores will accept credit cards, while smaller shops will often insist on cash or payment by ATM card.

Computer Games and Gaming Hardware- If you are interested in buying a new Playstation, Nindendo DS and the like, the Oriental Shopping Centre, 188 Wan Chai Road, is the place to go. Here you will definitely find a real bargain. Prices can be up to 50% cheaper than in your home country. Be careful to compare prices first. There are also a few game shops in the Wanchai Computer Centre. The back corners in the upper levels usually offer the best prices. You might even be lucky and find English speaking staff here. However, be careful to make sure that the region code of the hardware is compatible with your home country's region code (Hong Kong's region code is NTSC-J, different from mainland China) or buy region code free hardware (like the Nintendo DS lite).

Music and Film- HMV is a tourist-friendly store that sells a wide range of more expensive products. For real bargains you should find your way into the smaller shopping centres where you will find small independent retailers selling CDs and DVDs at very good prices. Some shops sell good quality second hand products. Try the Oriental Shopping Centre on Wanchai Road for a range of shops and a taste of shopping in a more down-market shopping centre. Alternatively, brave the warren of CD and DVD shops inside the Sino Centre on Nathan Road between Mong Kok and Yau Ma Tei MTR stations. Hong Kong has two independent music stores. White Noise Records in Causeway Bay and Harbour Records in TST. Hong Kong's leading department store Lane Crawford has CD Bars in its IFC and Pacific Place stores and there's a good CD bar at Saffron Cafe on the Peak.

Camping and sports- A good place to buy sportswear is close to Mong Kok MTR station. Try Fa Yuen Street with a lot of shops selling sports shoes. There are also many shops hidden anywhere except the ground floor for selling camping equipment. Prices are usually highly competitive.

Fashion - Tsim Sha Tsui on Kowloon and Causeway Bay on the island are the most popular shopping destinations, though you can find malls all over the territory. In addition to all the major international brands, there are also several local Hong Kong brands such as Giordano, Bossini, G2000, Joyce and Shanghai Tang. The International Finance Centre in Central has a good selection of haute coutre labels for the filthy rich, while for cheap knock-offs, Temple Street in Mong Kok is the obvious destination, though prices are not as cheap as they used to be and these days, most locals head across the border to Shenzhen for cheaper bargains. There is also Citygate Outlets, an extremely large factory outlet mall containing most of the major foreign and local brands located near Tung Chung MTR station on Lantau Island.

Tea- Buying good chinese tea is like choosing a fine wine and there are many tea retailers that cater for the connoisseur who is prepared to pay high prices for some of China's best brews. To sample and learn about Chinese tea you might like to find the Tea Museum which is in Hong Kong Park in Central. Marks & Spencer caters for homesick Brits by supplying traditional strong English tea bags at a reasonable price.

Watches and jewellery- Hong Kong people are avid watch buyers - how else can you show your wealth if you can't own a car and your home is hidden at the top of a tower-block? You will find a wide range of jewellery and watches for sale in all major shopping areas. If you are targeting elegant looking jewellery or watches try Chow Tai Fook, which can be expensive. Prices vary and you should always shop around and try and bargain on prices. When you are in Tsim Sha Tsui you will probably be offered a "copy watch" for sale. The major luxury brands have their own shops that will insure you are purchasing genuine items.

Shopping Malls

- Shopping Malls are everywhere in Hong Kong. Locally renowned ones are:

1. IFC Mall [53] - Located near the Star Ferry and Outlying Islands Ferry Piers in Central. Has many luxury brand shops, an expensive cinema and superb views across the harbour from the rooftop. Can be reached directly from the Airport via the Airport Express and the Tung Chung line.

2. Pacific Place [54]- Also a big shopping centre with mainly high-end brands, and has a wonderful cinema. Take the MTR to Admiralty.

3. Festival Walk [55]- A big shopping centre with a mix of expensive brands and smaller chains. There is also an ice skating rink there. Take the MTR East Rail to Kowloon Tong.

4. Cityplaza [56]- A similarly large shopping centre, also with an ice-skating rink. To get there, take the MTR to Taikoo on the Island Line.

5. Landmark- Many the luxury brands have shops here Gucci, Dior, Fendi, Vuitton, etc. located at Central, Pedder Street. It used to be a magnet for the well-heeled but has since fallen behind in its management.

6. APM [57]- All new 24hr Shopping centre in Kwun Tong. Take the MTR to the Kwun Tong station.

7. Harbour City [58][Huge Shopping centre in Tsim Sha Tsui on Canton Road, to get there take the MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui, or take the Star Ferry.

8. Langham Place [59]- A huge 12 storey shopping mall adjacent to the the Langham Place Hotel in Mong Kok. Mainly contains trendy shops for youngsters. Take the MTR to the Mong Kong station and follow the appropriate exit directions.

9. Elements [60]- Located next to Kowloon Station. Just like the IFC Mall, there are many luxury brand shops, a cinema and an ice rink. The International Commerce Centre, the highest commercial building in Hong Kong starting from 2009, is right on top of this shopping mall.

10. Times Square [61]- A trendy multi storey Shopping Mall with some luxury brands, with food courts at the lower levels, and Gourmet Dining at the upper stories. Take MTR to Causeway Bay, and exit at "Times Square". Crowded on weekends. A popular meeting point for teenagers.

11. Citygate Outlet [62]- Located right next to Tung Chung MTR Station, the Citygate is a rare outlet mall with tonnes of mid-priced brands, some of them being Adidas, Esprit, Giordano, Levi's, Nike, Quiksilver and Timberland.

12. Laforet, Island Beverly and Causeway Place. Best places to find cheap stylish clothes, Asian style. Mostly girls clothes, but also bags, shoes and accessories, highly recommended if you are looking for something different. Immensely popular with teenagers. These three shopping malls are all located near exit E, Causeway Bay MTR station.

13. New Town Plaza, a 9 storey shopping mall covering 1,300,000 m² retail area in Shatin, New Territories. Diverse variety of shops, consisting of sports brands, luxury brand shops, cuisines from countries in different continents, sports, etc. can be found in the mall, which is estimated to be one of the malls with highest footfall. The mall is linked with a number of shopping centres nearby, including Phase 3 of New Town Plaza with a Japanese style Department store, YATA. 30 bus lanes are available for accessing the shopping mall. Taking the MTR East Rail to Shatin is another possible way.

Streetmarkets

Street markets are a phenomenon in Hong Kong, usually selling regular groceries, clothes, bags or some cheap electronic knockoffs.

1. Ladies Market- don't be fooled by the name. It is for both sexes for finding cheap clothes, toys, knockoff and fake labels. Located in Mong Kok and accessible by MTR or bus.

2. Temple Street - Sold items are the same as in the Ladies Market, but there are more street food vendors, a handful of fortune tellers and a few Chinese opera singers. Illustrated in hundreds of cantonese films, this street is seen as a must by most tourists.

3. Flower Market - Prince Edward. Follow your nose to the sweet scents of a hundred different varieties of flowers.

4. Goldfish Market- A whole street full of shops selling small fish in plastic bags and accessories Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok.

5. Bird Market- MTR Station Prince Edward, exit "Mong Kok Police Station". Walk down Prince Edward Road West until you reach Yuen Po Street "Bird Garden".

6. Apliu Street- MTR Station Shum Shui Po, this is the place where you can find cheap computer goods, peripherals and accessories. However, this is the worst place to buy a mobile phone, as they tend to be even more dodgy than small stores in Mongkok.

7. Stanley Market- A place for tourists rather than locals, shops sell everything from luxury luggage items to cheap brand name clothes. Accessible with the number 40 minibus from Causeway Bay. Also, no.6 and 6A bus from Central, and no. 973 bus from Tsim Sha Tsui.

8. Textiles - Sham Shui Po MTR exit. Several square blocks around Nam Cheong St. (between Cheung Sha Wan Rd. and Lai Chi Kok Rd.) hold dozens and dozens of wholesalers to the textile trade. Although they are looking for big factory contracts, most shops are friendly and will sell you "sample-size" quantities of cloth, leather, haberdashery, tools, machinery and anything else you can think of to feed your creative impulses. Ki Lung Street has an outdoor street market selling smaller quantities of factory surplus cloth and supplies at astoundingly low prices. Haggling is not necessary.

Discounts and haggling

Some stores in Hong Kong (even some chain stores) are willing to negotiate on price, particularly for goods such as consumer electronics, and in many small shops, they will give you a small discount or additional merchandise if you just ask. For internationally branded items whose prices can be easily found (i.e. consumer electronics), discounts of 50% are extremely unlikely. However, deep discounts are often possible on merchandise such as clothes. However, if there is a shop that is selling goods with a 50% discount, most local people will likely avoid buying there because it's too good to be true.

Electronics stores are often packed together in the same place, so it is often easy to spend a few minutes comparing prices, and to know the prevailing international prices. Start by asking for a 10 to 20% discount and see how they respond to you. Sometimes it maybe appropriate to ask "is there any discount?" or "do I get any free gift?". It is sometimes possible to get an additional discount if you pay cash because credit card companies charge 3% on your bill.

- Tourist traps

The reputation for being a shopping paradise is well deserved in Hong Kong and, added to which, it is also a safe place to shop. Overcharging is seen as an immoral business practice by most local people, and is unlikely to spoil your holiday. Plenty of hotlines are available for complaints.

In areas crowded with tourists, traps do exist. They are often nameless consumer electronics stores with attention grabbing neon signs advertising reputable brand names. Many traps can be spotted if they have numerous employees in a very small store space. Often, several of these stores can be found in a row, especially along Nathan Road, in Kowloon and in parts of Causeway Bay.

One trick is to offer you a low price on an item, take your money only to 'discover' that it is out of stock, and then offer you an inferior item instead. Another trick is to give you a great price on a camera, take your credit card, and before handing over the camera convince you to buy another "better one" at an inflated cost. They may also try to mislead you into buying an inferior product, by claiming that it is a quality product.

Watch out for persons (usually of Indian subcontinental descent) who approach tourists in the busier areas of Kowloon. They do spot Westerners from a great distance and will make a direct line toward you to sell you usually either a suit or watch ("Genuine Copy" is the a phrase often used). Learn to spot them from a distance (since they are already looking for you), make eye-contact, put up your hand and definitively shake your head. Good, strong body language in this regard will help you be approached far less.

Although the law is strictly enforced, tourists traps are usually designed by villains who are experts at exploiting gray areas in the law. Remember, no one can help you if unscrupulous shop owners haven't actually broken the law.

The official Hong Kong Tourism Board has also introduced the Quality Tourism Services (QTS) Scheme that keeps a list of reputable shops, restaurants and hotels. The shops registered usually cater only to tourists, while shops that offer you the best deals usually don't bother to join the programme.

- Refunds

Many shops are reluctant to refund if you just don't like what you bought. They are more willing to exchange products that haven't been tampered with or replace defective goods. Going against the trend, Marks & Spencer and Giordano both offer refunds without too much fuss.

Supermarkets and Convenience Stores

Like many crowded urban areas where most people rely on public transport, many Hongkongers shop little and often, so therefore there is an abundance of convenience stores which can be found on almost every street corner and in most train stations. These include 7-Eleven, Circle K (known as 'OK' by the locals) and Vanguard. Convenience stores are more expensive but are normally open 24-7 and sell magazines, soft drinks, beer, instant noodles, packaged sandwiches, microwavable ready-meals, snacks, contraceptives and cigarettes. Many stores have an in-store microwave for preparing ready-meals as well as hot water for preparing instant noodles and instant tea/coffee, and also provide chopsticks for eating food on the go.

Park 'n' Shop and Wellcome are the two main supermarket chains in Hong Kong and they have branches in almost every neighbourhood, some of which open 24-7. In urban areas, some stores are located underground and tend to be very small and cramped, although they have a much wider product choice and are somewhat cheaper than the above convenience stores. City'super, Great and Taste are expensive upmarket supermarkets that focus on high-quality products that are aimed towards a more affluent market. Apita and JUSCO are large Japanese-style supermarkets with a wide product selection and food courts. The YATA department store in Shatin, also offers a Japanese-sytle supermarket experience.

Eat

This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:

Budget

Under $50

Mid-range

$100-$200

Splurge

Over $300

Cuisine plays an important part in many peoples lives in Hong Kong. Not only is it a showcase of Chinese cuisines with huge regional varieties, but there are also excellent Asian and Western choices. Although Western food is often adapted to local tastes, it is a good place for homesick travellers who have had enough of Chinese food. If you can afford it, you can also find some Western restaurants that are featured in the Michelin guide to Hong Kong.

Magazines for local gourmets are published every week and the Michelin Guide for Hong Kong has been published since 2008. According to Restaurant magazine in 2010, four of the best 100 restaurants in the world are in Hong Kong.

A long queue can be a local sport outside many good restaurants during peak hours. Normally, you need to register first, get a ticket and wait for empty seats. Reservations are usually only an option in upmarket restaurants.

Cost

While dining out, you may meet some local people who haven't cooked at home for a decade, eating in restaurants is not cheap by Asian standards, although it is still cheaper than Europe and North America.

To stuff your stomach in a grassroots Chaa Chan Teng (茶餐廳) (local tea restaurant), expect to pay $10-20 for milk tea or coffee, $8-10 for a toast and $25-50 for a dish of rice with meats. Wonton noodles generally cost $20-30. McDonald's, once the cheapest worldwide a decade ago, sells a Happy Meal set for around $20-25. Other basic restaurants can usually be found in wet markets or outdoor locations, and cost about $100-$150 per person.

In midrange and upmarket restaurants, prices are hard to generalise. In a hotpot restaurant, $100-150 per head is common, and $200-400 per person is also expected for better choices of food. Sushi is popular with many locals and prices usually start at $100-200 in a self-service bar to several hundred dollars for a tiny portion of high quality food.

Western restaurants, especially in Soho in Central, where rental payments are skyrocketing, tend to be particularly expensive, and $300-$500 per head is common. Fine dining restaurants, usually located at five-star hotels, can cost $500-$1500 per person, more if you are a wine enthusiast. Wine choices in these places are on par with any 5-star hotel.

Etiquette

Chinese food is generally eaten with chopsticks, but don't expect restaurants serving western food to supply chopsticks; dinners will routinely use a knife fork and spoon. Do not stick your chopsticks vertically into a bowl of rice, as this is reminiscent of incense sticks burning at the temple and has connotations of wishing death on those around you. In addition, chopsticks should not be used to move bowls and plates or make any noise. Dishes in smaller eateries might not come with a serving spoon, although staff will usually provide one if you request.

A few Hong Kong customs to be aware of:

- To thank the person who pours your tea Cantonese style, tap two or three fingers on the table. The legend suggests a story involving a Chinese emperor travelling incognito and his loyal subjects wanting to kowtow (bow) to him without blowing their cover — hence the "finger kowtow".

- If you want more tea in the pot, leave the lid open, and it will be refilled.

- It is not unusual for customers to rinse their plates and utensils with hot tea before starting their meal, and a bowl is often provided for this very purpose.

- Except for very expensive places, there is no real dresscode in Hong Kong. You will often see people in suits and others in t-shirts in the same restaurant.

See also Chinese table manners for more details. While certain etiquette is different, Chinese manners for using chopsticks apply to Hong Kong too.

What to eat

Dim sum 點心

Dim sum (點心), literally means 'to touch (your) heart', is possibly the best known Cantonese dish. Served at breakfast and supper, these delicately prepared morsels of Cantonese cuisine are often served with Chinese tea.

Dim Sum comes in countless variations with a huge price range from $8 to more than $100 per order. Common items include steamed shrimp dumplings (蝦餃 har gau), pork dumplings (燒賣 siu mai), barbecued pork buns (叉燒包 char siu bau), and Hong Kong egg tarts (蛋撻 dan tat). Expect more choice in upmarket restaurants. One pot of tea with two dishes, called yak chung liang gin is a typical serving for breakfast.

Siu Mei 燒味

Siu mei is pork roasted over an open fire or a huge wood burning rotisserie oven. With the addition of a slightly crispy honey sauce layer, the final taste is of a unique, deep barbecue flavour. Rice with roasted pork (叉燒 char siu), roasted duck, pork with a crisp crackling, or Fragrant Queen's chicken (香妃雞), are common dishes that are enduring favourites for many, including local superstars.

Congee 粥

Cantonese congee (juk) is a thin porridge made with rice boiled in water. Served at breakfast, lunch or supper, the best version is as soft as 'floss', it takes up to 10 hours to cook the porridge to reach this quality. Congee is usually eaten with savoury Chinese doughnuts (油炸鬼 yau char kway) and steamed rice pastry (腸粉 cheong fun) which often has a meat or vegetable filling.

Hong Kong has several restaurant chains that specialise in congee, but none of them have earned the word-of-mouth respect from local gourmets. The best congee places are usually in older districts, often owned by elderly people who are patient enough to spend hours making the best floss congee.

Noodles 麵

When asked what food makes Hong Kong people feel home, wonton noodles (雲吞麵) is one of the favourite answers. Wonton are dumplings usually made from minced prawn but may contain small amounts of pork.

Rice pastry is also a popular dish from southern China. Found particularly in Teochew and Hokkien areas in China, its popularity is widespread throughout east Asia. In Hong Kong, it is usually served in soup with beef and fish balls and sometimes with deep-fried crispy fish skins.

Tong Sui 糖水

A popular Cantonese dessert is a sweet soup called tong sui (糖水, literal: sugar water). Popular versions are usually made with black sesame paste, walnuts or sago which are usually sticky in texture. Lo ye (撈野) is a similar dish. Juice is put into a ultra-cold pan to make an ice paste, it is usually served with fresh fruit and sago.

Tea time 下午茶

Hot milk tea Hong Kong style

You might expect that after more than a century of colonial rule tea might be served British style - well, almost. Order a cup of hot Hong Kong tea (熱奶茶) in a traditional cafe and what you will get will be a cup of the strongest brew imaginable. With the addition of evaporated milk, this is not a drink for the faint-hearted.

Showing signs of British colonial influence, tea time (Ha ng cha) plays an important role in Hong Kong's stressful office life. Usually starting at 2pm to 3pm, a typical tea set goes with a cup of 'silk-stocking' tea, egg tarts and sandwiches with either minced beef, egg or ham, but without vegetables and cheese.

Similar to Malaysian 'teh tarik', Hong Kong's variation shares a similar taste. The key difference is that a sackcloth bag is used to filter the tea leaves and the tea-dyed sackcloth resembles silk stockings, giving the name 'silk-stocking milk tea'. Milk tea, to some Hong Kong people, is an important indicator on the quality of a restaurant. If a restaurant fails to serve reasonably good milk tea, locals might be very harsh with their criticism. Mandarin duck (Yuanyang) is also a popular drink mixed with milk tea and coffee.

A signal to tell you teatime has come is a small queue lining up in bakery to buy egg tarts (a teatime snack with outer pastry crust and filled with egg custard). Don't attempt to make a fool of yourself by telling people that the egg tart was brought to Hong Kong by the British - many locals are assertive in claiming sovereignty over their egg tarts. When a long-established egg tart shop in Central was closed due to skyrocketing rental payments, it became the SAR's main news and many people came to help the owners look for a new place.

Street food

Street food is thriving in this territory. Local specialities include curry fish meat balls (咖喱魚蛋), fake shark fin soup (碗仔翅) made with beans and vermicelli noodles and fried three filled treasures (煎釀三寶, vegetable filled with fish meat).

Sea Food 海鮮

Seafood Street in Sai Kung, New Territories

Live seafood tanks, Sai Kung

Seafood is very popular and is widely available. The best places to eat seafood include Sai Kung, Sam Shing, Po Doi O and Lau Fau Shan in the New Territories and Hong Kong's islands, particularly Lamma and Cheung Chau, are abound with seafood restaurants. Seafood is not cheap. Prices range from $200 per head for a very basic dinner, to $300-500 for better choices and much more for the best on offer.

Expect to find a mismatch between the high prices for the food and the quality of the restaurant. Sometimes the best food is served in the most basic eateries where tables maybe covered in cheap plastic covers rather than a more formal tablecloth. Often, Cantonese people value the food more than the decor. If one of your travelling companions does not like seafood, don't panic, many seafood restaurants have extensive menus that cater for all tastes. A number of seafood restaurants specialise in high quality roast chicken that is especially flavoursome. Many exotic delicacies like abalone, conch and bamboo clam can be found for sale in many seafood restaurants but you might want to avoid endangered species such as shark and juvenile fish.

Exotic meats

While Hong Kong has long banned dog meat and has strict rules on importing many meats of wild life animals, snake meat is commonly seen in winter in different restaurants that bear the name "Snake King". Served in a sticky soup, it is believed to warm your body.

There's an ongoing debate over the consumption of shark fin in Hong Kong, which is the biggest importer of this exotic cuisine. Commonly served at wedding parties and other important dining events, shark fin is served in a carefully prepared stew usually at $80 per bowl to $1000. The consumption of shark fin is a controversial topic and the Hong Kong WWF is campaigning against consumption of this endangered species.

Where to eat

While dining out, it is easy to find places selling mains for well under $80, offering both local and international food. Local fast food chains such as Café de Coral [63] and Maxim's MX [64] offer meals in the vicinity of $30, with standardised English menus for easy ordering. Mid-range restaurants generally charge in excess of $100 for mains. Whilst at the top end, restaurants, such as Felix or Aqua, can easily see you leave with a bill in excess of $1500 (including entrées (appetizers), mains, desserts and drinks).

A uniquely Hong Kong-style eatery starting to make waves elsewhere in Asia is the cha chaan teng (茶餐廳), literally "tea cafe", but offering fusion fast food that happily mixes Western and Eastern fare: innovations include noodles with Spam, stir-fried spaghetti and baked rice with cheese. Usually a wide selection of drinks is also available, almost always including the popular tea-and-coffee mix yuenyeung (鴛鴦), and perhaps more oddities (to the Western palate) like boiled Coke with ginger or iced coffee with lemon. Orders are usually recorded on a chit at your table and you pay at the cashier as you leave.

Hong Kong also has a staggering range of international restaurants serving cuisines from all over the world. These can often be found in, though not restricted to, entertainment districts such as Lan Kwai Fong, Soho or Knutsford Terrace. Of these, Soho is probably the best for eating as Lan Kwai Fong is primarily concerned with bars and clubs and on Friday and Saturday nights especially can become crowded with revellers. Top chefs are often invited or try to make their way to work in Hong Kong.

Barbecue (BBQ) meals are a popular local pastime. Many areas feature free public barbecue pits where everybody roasts their own food, usually with long barbeque forks. It's not just sausages and burgers - the locals enjoy cooking a variety of things at BBQ parties, such as fish, beef meatballs, pork meatballs, chicken wings, and so on. A good spot is the Southern Hong Kong Island, where almost every beach is equipped with many free BBQ spots. Just stop by a supermarket and buy food, drinks and BBQ equipment. The best spots are Shek O (under the trees at the left hand side of the beach) and Big Wave Bay.

Wet markets are still prevalent. Freshness is a key ingredient to all Chinese food, so frozen meat and vegetables are frowned upon, and most markets display freshly butchered beef and pork (with entrails), live fish in markets, and more exotic shellfish, frogs, turtles and snails. Local people often go to the market everyday to buy fresh ingredients, just like the restaurants.

Cooked food centres are often found in the same building as some of the indoor wet markets. Tables that were once located on the street have been swept into sterile concrete buildings. Inside, the atmosphere is like a food court without the frills. Cooked food centres provide economic solutions to diners, but you might need to take along a Cantonese speaker, or be brave.

Supermarkets include Wellcome, [65], Park N Shop, [66], and CRC Shop [67]. Speciality supermarkets catering to Western and Japanese tastes include City Super [68] and Great [69]. 24 hour convenience stores 7-Eleven and Circle K can be found almost anywhere in urban areas.

Drink

Tea

As with the rest of China, tea is a popular beverage in Hong Kong, and is served at practically every eatery. Chinese teas are the most commonly served, though many places also serve Western-style milk tea.

Alcohol

Traditionally, in much of China, people are more likely to drink tea, rather than alcoholic beverages. Many east Asian people are predisposed to alcohol intolerance, a condition that often manifests itself as the so-called 'Asian flush'. Nevertheless, many Chinese people do drink but don't expect the binge-drinking culture found in some western countries. There are many neighbourhoods in Hong Kong without much in the way of a bar or pub.

Drinking alcohol with food is acceptable, but there is no expectation to order alcohol with your meal in any restaurant. A number of popular eateries do not sell alcohol.

If drinking alcohol is not your thing, then Hong Kong might be described as a teetotaler's paradise. Many places offer a good range of non-alcoholic drinks, including extravagant mocktails that might seem more like a dessert. Such drinks are often consumed with a thick straw and may contain a variety of exotic sweet ingredients.

Lan Kwai Fong (Central), Wanchai and Knutsford Terrace (Kowloon) are the three main drinking areas where locals, expats and tourists mingle together. Here you will certainly find a party atmosphere, but don't expect the drunken brawls and rowdiness that you might be used to back home. If you come to Hong Kong, and get drunk, you will certainly risk drawing considerable attention to yourself if you cannot hold your drink.

The minimum age for drinking in a bar is 18 years. There is usually a requirement for young adults to prove their age, especially when going to a nightclub. The accepted ID in clubs is either your passport or a Hong Kong ID card. Photocopies are rarely accepted due to minors using fake documents.

Drinking out in Hong Kong can be expensive, especially if you choose imported drinks in fashionable western-style bars. However, away from the tourist trail, some Chinese restaurants may have a beer promotion aimed at meeting the needs of groups of diners. In cooked food centres, usually found at the wet markets, young women are often employed to promote a particular brand of beer. Convenience stores such as Circle-K, and supermarkets all sell a reasonable range of drinks. In Lan Kwai Fong, the 7-Eleven there is a very popular 'bar' for party-animals on a budget.

During Wednesdays and Thursdays Ladies night applies in some bars in Wan Chai and Lan Kwai Fong, which in most cases means that women can enter bars and clubs for free, and in some rare cases also get their drinks paid for the night. At weekends, several bars and clubs in these areas also have an 'open bar' for some of the night, which means you can drink as much as you like.

Tsing Tao (pronounced 'ching dow') is a famous pilsner beer that began life in 1903 in the former German colony of Qingdao. Here, German brewers began production to meet the needs and palates of European expats. Other brews that are widely available include, San Miguel, Carlsberg and Blue Girl. Beers and rice wines produced for the market in mainland China are popular and are sold at competitive prices in supermarkets. There is no longer any tax on wine or beer in Hong Kong.

Check the district pages of this travel guide for recommended bars.

Tobacco

Smoking Restrictions

A smoking-ban came into effect in 2007. The ban includes a number of outdoor locations such as university campuses, parks, gardens, bus stops, and beaches. As from 1 July 2009, the smoking ban has been extended to include places for adult entertainment such as bars, clubs and saunas. If you are undercover, you probably should not be smoking. Expect to pay a substantial fine of up to $5,000 if caught smoking in the wrong place. There is also a penalty of $1,500 for dropping cigarette butts.

In a move to discourage smoking, tourists are only allowed to carry no more than 19 duty-free cigarettes or 25g of tobacco products since August 2010. The government has also banned the sales of tobacco products in duty-free shops on arrival gates.

Offenders can be charged for cigarette smuggling and the penalty can be tough. According to one local account, a man was fined $2000 after being found guilty of carrying five packs of cigarettes. Illegal duty-free cigarettes can be seen for sale in several locations, such as in night markets, but both the buyer and seller may be charged for smuggling. Be aware that the police are known to launch frequent raids at any time. Once caught, ignorance is not an accepted defence.

Cigarettes in Hong Kong cost around $50 for a pack of 20. Most popular brands include Marlboro, Salem and Kent which are sold at $50 something, the second highest in Asia after Singapore. There are also some slightly cheaper brands catering for smokers on budget. Hand-rolling tobacco is not common and is only available in specialty shops.

Sleep

Individual listings can be found in Hong Kong's district articles

With more than 50,000 rooms available, Hong Kong offers a huge choice of accommodation from cheap digs to super luxury. Most places are linked by the excellent public transport system that ensures all attractions are close at hand but budget travellers who are spoiled by cheap prices in many Asian countries are often shocked by the accommodation cost in this international city where rental payment is as high as London and New York.

Anything under $700 is considered budget. While it is possible to have a dorm bed for $70-150 and a double room for $200-500, you should not expect anything except a bed. Accommodation with reasonable space, decoration and cleanness is usually priced from $150-250 up for a bed and $800 for a room.

Most super-budget guesthouses are located along Nathan Road between Tsim Sha Tsui and Mong Kok. Expect a tiny, undecorated room and little else. Some bathrooms are shared and noise could be a problem for light sleepers. Single rooms with private bathrooms run for about $150-$250 a night.

Two popular guesthouse clusters are inside Chungking Mansions (nicknamed Chungking Jungles by some local people) and Mirador Mansions in Tsim Sha Tsui. Located in the city centre and regarded as a slum by local people, it is home to tight budget travellers from Europe, America, India and Africa. Your friends in Hong Kong will probably be shocked when hearing that you choose to stay there and it is true that there are considerable negative reviews on those guesthouses, but it is the place packed with most of the cheapest (and the worst) accommodation. Brush aside the gloomy environment, the annoying fake watch sellers and disturbing pimps, the well-patrolled place in the heart of Hong Kong is safe. Just bear in mind that $100 for a dorm bed and $300 for room is still low in Hong Kong. Keep your expectations as realistically low as possible.

Cheap guesthouses can also be found in Causeway Bay, a place popular with young backpackers with less of a budget. They are $50-$100 more expensive than those in Kowloon but they are more likely to provide free internet and better environment.

For affluent travellers, Hong Kong houses some of the best world class hotels that run a fierce competition for your wallets by offering a pick-up service by helicopter, a Michelin star restaurant and extravagant spas and all possible comforts to picky customers. Major international chains are also well represented. Five-star hotels include The Peninsula, Four Seasons, Le Meridien, W , InterContinental, JW Marriott and Ritz Carlton, Shangri-La, Mandarin Oriental and rooms usually start from $3000.

There are also some four star hotels such as Marriott, Novotel and Crowne Plaza and prices start from around $1500 up, depending on the season.

Notice that some drab "guesthouses", especially those in Kowloon Tong, Mong Kok and Causeway Bay, may actually be love hotels.

The Hong Kong Youth Hostel Association [70] runs seven youth hostels. All of them are located outside the city and expect extra budget from $100 to $300 for a cab when public transport service is closed. All but the one on Hong Kong island also have a strict curfew rule and have a daily closing time in which hostellers ought to leave the site between 10:00 to 16:00 (13:00 - 15:00 on public holidays). Free shuttle bus service is provided by several hostels but the service stops at 10:30pm.

When choosing the locations to stay, try to pick one near to the MTR (metro) stations. When the metro service is closed at 1am, they are likely to be connected by 24-hour bus services. Hotels are also available in outlying islands such as Lamma Island and Cheung Chau, but it is probably not an ideal option for nightlife travellers.

Hong Kong's country parks also provide 39 camping sites [71]. The facililties are on a "first-come-first-served" basis and vacanies are running out soon during weekends and public holidays. You are not allowed to camp other than in a designated camp site which can be identified by the sign board erected by the Country and Marine Parks Authority. According to some Wikitravellers, the park is frequently patrolled by the Authority staff and they are strict at penalizing an offence.

Stay safe

Crime

With an effective police and legal system, Hong Kong is one of the safest cities in the world. Needless to say, low crime does not mean no crime, and there is no excuse to ditch your common sense. Although local people feel safe to carry a knapsack with a wallet inside, one should be wary in crowded areas where pickpockets are likely to strike, particularly at the main tourist attractions.

Hong Kong films have often portrayed triads (三合會) as gun wielding gangsters who fear nobody, but that only happens in the movies. Even in their heyday, triads tended to engage only in prostitution, counterfeiting or loan-sharking and lived underground lives, and rarely targeted the average person on the street. Just stay away from the triads by avoiding loan sharks and illegal betting.

Call 999 when you urgently need help from the Police, Fire and Ambulance services. Hong Kong has a strict service control system, so once you call 999, the police should show up within 10 minutes in most cases, usually less. For non-emergency police assistance, call 2527-7177.

Legal matters

Most travellers who have got into trouble with the law are involved with illicit drugs. Drugs such as ecstasy (MDMA) and marijuana are subject to tight control and tourists risk immediate arrest if they are found in possession of even small amounts of banned substances. Most Hongkongers tend to have strong negative views against narcotics, including 'soft' drugs such as marijuana.

Under Hong Kong law, local residents are required to carry Identity Cards with them at all times, and the police frequently carry out spot checks when they have "reasonable grounds for suspicion". Tourists are advised by the government to carry their passports but unless you think you are highly likely to stopped by the police there is no great need; most visitors choose to keep their passport in a safe place.

You are expected to cooperate with the police during their investigations, and understand that they may search your pockets and bags. By the law, you can reject a request to search your bags and body in public. You also have the right to refuse to answer any questions, to contact your embassy and to apply for legal assistance. The police are likely to agree with your request but they may detain you for up to 48 hours.

Discrimination is known to happen. People with a good educational background and reputable jobs are usually better treated by the police, while young people, those from developing countries and western countries with loose regulations on drugs may experience more frequent checks. The police and the government are exempt from the Race Discrimination Ordinance. However, there is a law to ban any form of police brutality, including verbal attacks and any use of foul language. Call 2866-7700 for the official Independent Police Complaints Council and report the officer's badge number displayed on his/her shoulder. The complaint is likely to be taken seriously.

Traffic

Signage on the roads in Hong Kong is similar to British usage. Zebra lines (zebra crossings) indicate crossing areas for pedestrians and traffic comes from the right. To stay safe, visit the Transport Department's website [72] for complete details.

Crossing the road by foot should also be exercised with great care. Traffic in Hong Kong generally moves fast once the signal turns green. To help both the visually impaired and even people who are not, an audible aid is played at every intersection. Rapid bells indicate "Walk"; intermittent bells (10 sets of 3 bells) indicate "Do Not Start to Cross"; and slow bells indicate "Do Not Walk".

Jay-walking' is an offence and police officers maybe out patrolling accident black-spots. It's is not uncommon to see local people waiting to cross an empty road - when this happens, you should also wait because it maybe that they have noticed that the police are patrolling the crossing.

Corruption

In Hong Kong, corruption is a serious offence. Unlike mainland China, money given for unfair competition is regarded as corruption, regardless of who the recipients are. Trying to offer a bribe to civil servants will almost certainly result in arrest and a prison sentence.

The territory has a powerful anti-corruption police force: the Independent Commission Against Corruption (ICAC), which has been taken as a role model by Interpol and the United Nations. A number of countries, such as Australia have adopted the Hong Kong system to combat corruption.

Hiking

Several hikers have lost their lives in the wilderness in the past decade. Hikers should equip themselves with detailed hiking maps, compass, mobile phones, snacks and adequate amounts of drinking water. Most areas of the countryside are covered by a mobile phone network but in some places you will only be able to pickup a mobile phone signal from mainland China. In this case, it is not possible to dial 999 for emergency assistance. A number of emergency telephones have been placed in Country Parks, their locations are clearly marked on all hiking maps.

Heat stroke is a major problem for hikers who lack experience of walking in a warm climate. If you plan to walk a dog during the hot summer months, remember that dogs are more vulnerable to heat stroke than humans and owners should ensure their pets get adequate rest and water.

The cooler hiking and camping season in October to February is also the time of the year when hill fires likely strike. At the entrances to country parks you will likely observe signs warning you of the current fire risk. With an average of 365 hill fires a year, you should take the risk of fire seriously and dispose of cigarettes and matches appropriately. According to some hikers' accounts, in places where fires and camping is not allowed, the Staff of the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department (AFCD) will most likely fine an offender.

While it's generally very safe to hike, the countryside can provide shelter to illegal immigrants and a few cases of robbery have been known. However, the police do patrol hiking routes and most major paths do offer the security of fellow hikers.

Natural disasters

Natural disasters are not usually a major issue in Hong Kong. There are no nearby fault lines, so earthquakes are rare and relatively mild when they do happen. The main hazards that Hong Kong faces are typhoons and floods.

Typhoons normally occur during the months of May to November, and are particularly prevalent during September. Whenever a typhoon approaches within 800km of Hong Kong, typhoon warning signal 1 is issued. Signal 3 is issued as the storm approaches. When winds reach speeds of 63-117 km/hour, signal 8 is issued. At this point, most nonessential activities shut down, including shops, restaurants and the transport system, offices and schools. Ferry services will be suspended, so visitors should return to their accommodation as soon as possible if they are dependent on these boat services to reach a place of safety. Signal 9 and 10 will be issued depending on the proximity and intensity of the storm. Winds may gust at speeds exceeding 220 km/hour causing masonry and other heavy objects to fall to the ground. During a typhoon, visitors should heed all warnings very seriously and stay indoors until the storm has passed. Remember that if the eye of the storm passes directly over there will be a temporary period of calm followed by a sudden resumption of strong winds from a different direction.

Some taxis are available during signal 8 or above, but they are under no obligation to serve passengers as their insurance is no longer effective under such circumstances. Taxi passengers are expected to pay up to 100% more when a typhoon strikes.

Rainstorms also have their own warning system. In increasing order of severity, the levels are amber, red and black. A red or black rainstorm is a serious event and visitors should take refuge inside buildings. A heavy rainstorm can turn a street into a river and cause serious landslides.

The Hong Kong Observatory [73] is the best place to get detailed weather information when in Hong Kong. In summer a convectional rainstorm may affect only a small area and give you the false impression that all areas are wet.

Stay healthy

The quality of medical care in Hong Kong is excellent but expensive for tourists who are not qualified to get a government subsidy. In cases of emergency, treatment is guaranteed, but you will be billed later if you cannot pay immediately. As a tourist, you are required to pay $570 for using emergency services ($100 for Hong Kong residents). Waiting times at hospital emergency rooms can be lengthy for non emergency patients, since people are prioritised according to their situation. If you have a problem making payment in public hospitals, you can apply for financial assistance but you will need to prove your economic status to social workers based in the hospital.

One common cause of sickness is the extreme temperature change between 35°C humid summer weather outdoors and 18°C air-conditioned buildings and shopping malls. Some people experience cold symptoms after moving between the two extremes. You are recommended to carry a sweater even in the summer-time.

Heat stroke is also common when hiking. Carry enough water and take scheduled rests before you feel unwell.

Find a doctor

Healthcare standards in Hong Kong are on par with the West, and finding a reputable doctor is not much of a problem should you get sick. Doctors come in two flavours: those that practice traditional Chinese medicine and the western variety. Both are taken equally seriously in Hong Kong, but as a visitor the assumption will be to direct you to a western doctor. Doctors that practice western medicine almost always speak English fluently, but you may find the receptionist to be more of a challenge.

Seeing a doctor is as easy as walking off the street and making an appointment with the receptionist. Generally you will be seen within an hour or less, but take note of the opening times displayed in the window of the doctor's office. A straightforward consultation for a minor ailment might cost around $150 to $500, but your bill will be inclusive of medicine. In Hong Kong, it is normal for a doctor to sell you medicine. Most surgeries and hospitals will accept credit cards. Expect to pay more if you visit a swanky surgery in Central. Check the directory[74] maintained by the Hong Kong Medical Association for further information. Help finding general practitioners, medical specialists and dentists might also be available at your consulate.

Tap Water

Tap water in Hong Kong has been proven to be drinkable, although a number of the local people still prefer to boil and chill their drinking water when it is taken from the tap. The official advice from the Water Board is that the water is perfectly safe to drink unless you are living in an old building with outdated plumbing and poorly maintained water tanks. Bottled water is widely available but remember that Hong Kong's landfill sites are filling up fast and plastic bottles are a major environmental problem.

Pollution

Despite Hong Kong's name meaning "fragrant harbour", this is not always so. Air pollution is a big problem due to a high population density and industrial pollution from mainland China. During periods of very bad air pollution tourists will find visibility drastically reduced, especially from Victoria Peak. Persons with serious respiratory problems should seek medical advice before travelling to the territory and ensure that they bring ample supplies of any relevant medication.

Pollution is a contentious topic in Hong Kong and is the number one issue among environmental campaigners. Much of the pollution originates from factories in mainland China and from Hong Kong motorists. Levels of pollution can vary according to the season. The winter monsoon can bring polluted air from the mainland, whilst the summer monsoon can bring cleaner air off the South China Sea.

Respect

Manners and Etiquette

Many travel guides written about Hong Kong during the 1980s and 1990s had remarked on the rudeness of Hongkongers. While understandable, courtesy in the city has improved dramatically in recent years. And these days, Hong Kong consistently ranks highly among Asian cities when it comes to customer service. Sometimes, there could be crowds of people pushing and shoving and neglecting to say "please" or "sorry". It is unusual for someone to hold doors for strangers. Don't expect the supermarket or bank cashier to ask about your day or to make chit-chat. In non-tourist areas, staff in shops and restaurant might not even say "thank you" when you pay. However, don't take this personally. This apparent 'rudeness' is not menacing or mean-spirited. Hong Kong is a fast-paced society where people often neglect pleasantries for efficiency. It does not originate from an abundance of aggression or the desire to offend. If anything, Hongkongers usually go out of their way not to offend. For example, you will rarely hear people debate politics in public or confront strangers on their conduct. They want to go merrily and speedily on their way with the fewest obstacles. It is generally considered strange to strike up pleasantries with a stranger, or to thank a bus driver. Saying "good morning" to a person you don't know at a bus stop will probably be viewed with some apprehension.

Hong Kong is not a touchy-feely kind of place, but times are changing. In the last decade, perhaps due to increased tourism and international trade, courtesy in Hong Kong has changed dramatically. Now, when you enter a department, convenience or chain clothing stores, staff will greet and thank you for your patronage or visit, even if you haven't bought anything. Wherever tourists or Western people congregate, you can expect courtesy meeting Western expectations.

Business

When you give or accept a business card, you must do it with both hands and with a slight dip of your head. Welcoming someone should also be done with a slight dip of the head and with a customary firm handshake, but there is no need to bow.

You will find that, in tourist areas, the cashier may hand receipts or change with both hands too. This is considered a gesture of respect. Because you're the patron, you are not expected to do the same when handing cash to the cashier.

Culture

Hong Kong has significant cultural differences from mainland China both due to past British influences and its evasion of communist ideologies. In particular, as Hong Kong was once a British colony, it was largely spared the Cultural Revolution that devastated much of the mainland. Today, while Hong Kong people seldom deny their Chinese heritage, many consider themselves to be a pioneer in developing a new Chinese culture that readily mixes and adapts both western and Asian trends. Showing Hongkongers that you understand that there are cultural differences with the mainland will go a long way in aquainting yourself with them.

For instance, spitting on the pavement, although common on the mainland, is considered uncivilised in Hong Kong. Spitting is against the law and carries a fixed penalty fine of $5,000. As a visitor, you should be mindful of the volume of your voice when speaking in public. Speaking or laughing vociferously on the bus, for example, will be viewed as uncouth.

Dress

When the thermometer hits 30 degrees expect to see many local people wearing warm clothing - this is to protect against the harsh air-conditioning often found on public transport and in places likes cinemas.

Hong Kong was once known for its fairly conservative dress sense, but these days, women wearing halter-necks and sleeveless tops can be easily spotted. It seems Hong Kong females are interested in up-to-date clothing even if it's inappropriate for the weather conditions (for example, wearing warm winter long boots in summer). Public nudity is illegal, so women can't go topless on the beach.

The dress code for men, especially tourists, is less conservative than it might have been. Even in 5-star hotels, smart casual is usually acceptable; although you might want to make your own enquiries in advance. If in doubt, wear long trousers rather than shorts: tourists from colder climates sometimes assume that wearing shorts in the tropics is a sensible idea, but hairy knees can look out of place in urban Hong Kong.

Politics

In Hong Kong, freedom of speech and the press are protected in law. Unlike mainland China, people are free to criticise their government. Websites are not blocked and the Internet is used to access the full range of political views and opinions. In recent years, people, once regarded as apolitical and pragmatic, are now more active in discussing politics, especially the political reforms aimed at introducing universal suffrage for electing the Chief Executive.

Spirited but peaceful public protests occur, particularly in front of the Central Government Offices in Central. Major political gathering or protests take place every year on 4th June commemorating the bloodshed at Tiananmen Square in 1989. The 1st July commemorates the SAR's reunification with China, but after more than 500,000 people took to the streets demanding universal suffrage in 2003, this Public Holiday has become an annual opportunity to protest in favour of electoral reform.

Politics is split between pro-Beijing and pro-democracy camps. While many desire universal suffrage, a right that Beijing has thus far refused to grant, many also try not to offend the mainland as Hong Kong's prosperity is thought to depend on further economic integration with China.

It may be argued that, Hong Kong people seldom deny their Chinese nationality and many, including pro-democracy parties, will see it as a defamation if accused of supporting independence for Hong Kong. Unlike Taiwan, the independence movement has never been widely discussed before and after 1997 and it has hardly gained any public support.

In Hong Kong, you don't need to avoid political discussion and talking politics won't lead you into any trouble.

Gay and Lesbian Hong Kong

Homosexuality was decriminalised in 1991, making it one of a few former British colonial jurisdictions in Asia to have done so. The age of consent between two males is 16 according to the ruling by the Hong Kong Court of Appeal in 2006, while there is no law concerning the age of consent between two females. Same sex marriages performed overseas are not recognised in Hong Kong and there is no anti-discrimination legislation on the grounds of sexual orientation. Holding hands, kissing or displaying public affection, while not common, are generally tolerated, although it may attract curious stares. Gay bashing is almost unheard of, though an effeminate boy could be a target for school bullying.

Overall, Hong Kong people generally respect personal freedom on sexuality. The prominent celebrity film star, Leslie Cheung, openly admitted that he was bisexual but his work and his personality has still been widely respected. His suicide in 2003 shocked many, and his fans, mainly female, showed considerable support for his partner.

However, while gay pride parades have recently been held in Hong Kong, there is no obvious gay community in daily life, and same-sex marriages are not legally recognised. Coming out to strangers or in the office is still regarded as peculiar and most tend to remain silent on this topic.

Gay bars and clubs are concentrated in Central, Sheung Wan, Causeway Bay and Tsim Sha Tsui (TST). The quality of these venues varies considerably and will perhaps disappoint those expecting something similar to London, Paris or New York. There is certainly no gay area as there are in Japanese and many Western cities, but a number of bars and cafes are popular among a section of the community. Dim Sum magazine, available for free in most cafes, eateries bars and clubs, is Hong Kong bilingual's GLBT magazine which gives a pretty good idea about gay and lesbian parties and events happening in Hong Kong. There's also a gay and lesbian section in HK Magazine (free, only in English) and TimeOut Hong Kong.

The GLBT community in Hong Kong is gaining ground now more than ever. 2009 was an active year for the community, which saw event after event being led by different people and groups, pushing forward its visibility and tolerance among the general public.

The Hong Kong Lesbian and Gay Film Festival is one of the longest running GLBT events in Hong Kong, and indeed in Asia. Celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2009, it brings to Hong Kong various international and regional GLBT films. The festival is usually held in November.

Hong Kong held its second Gay Pride ever on 1 Nov 2009, attracting over 1,800 people, gay and straight, to the event. There were participants coming in from mainland China, Taiwan, Malaysia and even Australia and the United States. It is held usually at the end of the year (late November-early December).

For those who like to party in the sea in sexy speedos (and bikinis), try to time your visit during Flotilla. Flotilla started almost as a gay pride in the sea in 2006, where junk boat party loving Hongkongers rent out junk boats in groups and throw themselves a fabulous party in the sea. 2008 saw over 20 boats anchored in the same bay, there were even boats targeted particularly for lesbians and bears. Both Flotilla 2006-2008 were held in May, while the one in 2009 was moved to October.

Hong Kong Disneyland also saw its first Gay Day in December 2009. Participants were asked to wear red and were given schedule on the particular showing for the event. This event, though, was not organised by Disneyland.

Contact

Hong Kong has communications facilities as modern as anywhere in the world. The cost, particularly for mobile phone users, is one of the cheapest globally.

Post

Postal services are efficient and of high quality. You will find post offices in major city areas and outside of opening hours, coin-operated stamp vending machines. You can buy stamps (sets of ten stamps of $1.4, $2.4, $3) from many convenience stores such as 7-Eleven or Circle K (OK). It is relatively inexpensive to ship your purchases back home from any Post Office.

Internet Access

Hong Kong has one of the highest penetrations of broadband in the world. The high penetrations make internet cafes not a notable scene even in a tourist area and they mainly gear towards local young gamers. Some require a deposit, usually around $100 and price up from $20-30 per hour.

For simple internet access, try free terminals in cafes such as Pacific Coffee Company [75] and some shopping malls, the airport, the MTR (e.g. Wan Chai station, Central Station, Tsim Sha Shui Station) and public libraries.

Free Wi-Fi access is available at most government premises including the airport and public libraries; see the Hong Kong Government Wifi website [76] for locations.

PCCW and Y5ZONE sell Wi-Fi access for a flat daily, weekly or monthly fee ($158 and $98 per month for PCCW and Y5ZONE, respectively) charged to your credit card or mobile phone bill (if you have one in Hong Kong). However, Y5ZONE offers 20 minutes of free internet access for your device before requiring you to pay. Both services are accessible at many fast food restaurants and coffee shops. Although more expensive, PCCW's signal is more ubiquitous and can also be received in many MTR stations, convenience stores and phone booths. Prepaid Wi-Fi access cards are somewhat expensive in Hong Kong and not worth the trouble unless you don't want to use your credit card to buy a subscription. Most hotels these days, even down market ones, provide Wi-Fi access to their guests.

Telephone

Hong Kong's country-code is 852 (different from mainland China (86) and Macau (853)). Local phone numbers (mobile and landlines) are typically 8 digits; no area codes are used. All numbers that begin with 5, 6, 8 or 9 are mobile numbers, while numbers beginning with 2 or 3 are fixed line numbers. For calls from Hong Kong, the standard IDD prefix is 001, so you would dial 001-(country code)-(area code)-(telephone number). Note that calls to Macau or mainland China require international dialling. For the operator, dial 1000. For police, fire or ambulance services dial 999.

Mobile phones

Hong Kong has a total of 11 different mobile operators, of which CSL is the largest. If you have a GSM handset (GSM 900, 1800) or W-CDMA (UMTS or 3G-GSM) handset, you can purchase a prepaid SIM card to use in your phone. They can be bought for cash at most convenience stores. To top-up your prepaid credits, purchase a recharge voucher also available at electronics stores as well as a few convenience stores. Recharging can be done online. Cheaper 2G (from any provider) and newer 3G cards (CSL, New World, 3) are available, but both are relatively inexpensive. A card with a value of around $48 should be sufficient unless you are making international calls (CSL provides IDD Pre-paid SIM at ralatively cheap rate) or you plan on using data services (CSL's Next G HSPA mobile broadband SIM is most likely cheaper at $38 per day than using the hotel's internet connection). Most cards provide standard services such as SMS, voice mail, and video call (CSL, and New World have 3G capability if you mobile phone supports). Discounted prepaid SIM Cards can be purchased in Ap Liu Street in Sham Shui Po, and in Sin Tat Plaza in Mongkok (83 Argyle Street, between Tung Choi Street and Fa Yuen Street). Cheap GSM and 3G phones can be purchased here as well (be careful, some phones sold here are 3G only). Mobile phone numbers have eight digits and begin with 5, 6 or 9. There are a lot of mobile phone stores, in urban areas, where you can purchase recharge vouchers (known elsewhere as top-up) for your SIM card.

For those on short visits, international roaming is available in Hong Kong onto its GSM 900/1800 and 3G (UMTS/W-CDMA) networks, subject to agreements between operators. For those coming from the mainland, some China Unicom SIMs will provide Hong Kong roaming at purchase time, and China Mobile provides a dual-number service which results in cheaper rates than straight roaming.

Although the mobile phone charge in Hong Kong is one of the lowest in the world, all mobile phone companies charge for BOTH incoming and outgoing calls (similar to USA, but different from most European countries, Japan, Taiwan or Korea). Coverage is excellent, except in remote mountainous areas. Almost all operators provide a good signal, even when underground in such places as the MTR system, on board trains and in cross-harbour and other road tunnels.

Landline phones

Landline phones for local calls are charged on monthly basis with unlimited access, but be careful that hotels may charge you per call.

Payphones are available and $1 is for a local call for 5 minutes. If you don't have a mobile and need to make a short local call, most restaurants, supermarkets and shops will oblige if you ask nicely.

Public payphones are becoming more and more difficult to find on streets nowadays, but MTR stations usually have public phones. The airport has a courtesy phone just before you step out of the glassed area after the customs - you cannot go back there once you have left.

Cope

Consulates

Hong Kong has most major foreign consulates and official representatives for visa needs.

For a full list, check out the Government's website[89].

For political reasons, Taiwan is not on the list above. Chung Hwa Travel Service[90] is their de facto consulate in Hong Kong and can handle visa applications.

Get out

- Macau, the former Portuguese colony and present largest gambling haven in the world, is just an hour away by TurboJet [91] ferry. Ticket prices start at $141 for the one-hour ride to Macau. The ferry building is near the Sheung Wan MTR station on Hong Kong Island. Less frequent ferries are also available from New World First Ferry [92] in Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon and the Hong Kong International Airport.

- Zhuhai in mainland China, across the border from Macau, is 70 minutes away by ferry.

- Shenzhen, mainland China's boomtown just across the border can be reached by MTR train services in about 40 minutes. The train is convenient if you are keen on shopping as it terminates in the Lo Wu commercial centre. Another alternative, especially if you are starting from the island is the ferry to Shekou which takes around 50 minutes and costs around $100. Note that if you aren't a Hong Kong resident, Japanese nor Singaporean citizen, you will need to pre-arrange a visa to enter Shenzhen.

- Guangzhou, capital of mainland China's Guangdong Province can be reached by train within 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on Guangdong Line [93]. If you are on a budget, many cross border buses are available throughout Hong Kong. The trip will take more than 3 hours, including going through customs at the border and changing buses. Check bus schedules and fares online [94].

District Kowloon Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By ferry

By train

By taxi

By helicopter

By bus

• See

Landmarks

Museums and exhibitions

Parks and nature

Other

• Do

• Buy

Shopping Malls

Markets

Electronics and Computers

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
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Get in
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By ferry
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Riding the Star Ferry from Central or Wan Chai ferry piers is considered a "must-do" for any traveller to Hong Kong. Not only is this the cheapest way to traverse the harbour, it's also the finest way to go sight-seeing, particularly at night, where you're surrounded by a wall of lights and skyscrapers on both sides. If you're feeling posh, you can pay fractionally more and travel as an upper-deck passenger. Alternatively, you can travel steerage and maybe get a glimpse into the noisy engine room.

By train
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The Airport Express takes you to Kowloon MTR station in just 20 minutes. Most of Hong Kong's rail lines converge on Kowloon. If you are travelling from Hong Kong island, change at Admirality on the Island Line for the MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui from Hong Kong island. The MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui offers a faster service and is the most popular choice for commuters, so avoid Admiralty interchange during the rush hour (5 PM to 7 PM). Alternatively the section of Tseung Kwan O Line between Quarry Bay and Yau Tong can be used for crossing the harbour.

By taxi
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Taking a taxi across the harbour to Kowloon can be slow and expensive due to traffic. Some taxi drivers operate only on one side of the harbour, so you may have to find a taxi rank marked "Cross-harbour trips only." Expect to pay tunnel fees both ways unless you depart from a taxi rank dedicated to cross-harbour service.

By helicopter
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Helicopter transfers can be arranged between Hong Kong International Airport and the roof-top landing pad at the Peninsula Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui.

By bus
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Citybus Cityflyer provides several bus routes from the Airport terminal, including A21, A22. Although they take longer time than MTR Airport Express, the fare of buses is much cheaper than the Airport express and they calls on much frequent bus stops along areas include Mong Kok, Tsim Sha Tsui, as well as nearby some hotels.

Numberous local buses travel through different areas of Kowloon, as well as between New Territories or Hong Kong island. Bus routes with number-prefix 1XX (e.g 102, 104, 118), 6XX (e.g 603, 601), 9XX (e.g 904, 905) are harbour-crossing buses and they call at the bus interchanges of the tunnels and some routes via Kowloon pennisula.

If you get into Hong Kong airport after midnight then you will need to take the N21 night bus. Prepare exact change for the bus as change will not given by the driver. The fare was $23 as of April 2011. The N21 goes through Nathan Rd and you can signal the driver to stop where you wish (for example, the Chung King mansions is #34-44 so keep an eye out for the numbers), don't count on the driver knowing any English, my driver didn't speak a lick of English!

See
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Thai Town

Hong Kong's Thai community is focussed on a few mundane streets in Kowloon City (九龍城寨). This area, adjacent to the old airport at Kai Tak, is off the beaten track for most tourists but it has some good Thai restaurants, indeed there are certainly plenty to choose from. Arguably, you may find a better Thai meal here than many tourist destinations in Thailand.

Kowloon City has few of the usual high-rise developments that characterise the rest of Hong Kong. Here low-rise buildings were developed to enable aircraft to scream their way across the rooftops towards Kai Tak. The MTR does not come this way, so take a taxi or bus from nearby Prince Edward MTR.

Landmarks
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- The Kowloon Waterfront offers splendid views of the Hong Kong island shore and skyline. This is the best place to experience the classic view of Hong Kong, and nobody on their first trip here should miss out on promenading along the waterfront. The best views are to be had at night when the lights of global capitalism provide a powerful spectacle. If you are not proficient with night-time photography, you can pay a modest sum for a professional to take your photograph against one of the world's most iconic backdrops. Start at the Star Ferry terminal, and begin your walk by inspecting the historic clock tower which is all that remains of a railway station that once took colonial officials back to London via the Trans-Siberian railway.

- Cruise ships berthed at Ocean Terminal. Upon arrival at the Star Ferry terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui, visitors can not help but be impressed by the spectacle, and majesty, of 40,000 tonne cruise liners parked in the heart of the city.

- A Symphony Of Lights Every night at 8 PM there is a colourful light show that is staged atop the key buildings on both sides of the harbour. On Monday evenings, spectators can listen to the show's music and English narration live at the Avenue of Stars, on radio on FM103.4 MHz or by calling 35 665 665.

- Avenue of the Stars. If you continue your stroll along the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront you will soon find yourself walking along Hong Kong's version of Hollywood's walk of fame. You have to look down to appreciate the Avenue of the Stars where so many local film stars have pawed the wet concrete. You might not recognise their names, but it goes to show how big Hong Kong's film industry is. The experience is targeted at tourists from mainland China and the piped music gives it a slightly cheesey feel, but the statue of film legend, Bruce Lee, provides a welcome photo opportunity even for those who might know very little about Cantonese cinema.

- After visiting the Kowloon waterfront you can take the Star Ferry [1] (it's a truly amazing experience) to Hong Kong Island, getting an excellent view of the skyline in the process.

- Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple(嗇色園黃大仙祠) is the most popular Taoist temple in Hong Kong. This is where many people ask for divine guidance by a practice known as kau cim(求籤), a practice that has all but disappeared in mainland China. Located just next to Wong Tai Sin(黃大仙) MTR Station. Entrance is free, though voluntary donations are welcome.

- Built in the 1950s, the Shek Kip Mei Estate is one of the few remaining places where you can grasp the living conditions of Hong Kong during the 50s and 60s. Despite the march of progress promulgated by the Urban Renewal Authority, there are still a few blocks of flats remaining from the 1950s, which are still occupied. Walk from Shek Kip Mei MTR Station.

Museums and exhibitions
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- Dialogue in the Dark, Shop 215, 2/F, The Household Centre, Nob Hill, 8 King Lai Path, Mei Foo, +852 2310 0833, [2]. T-Su 10AM–7:30PM. An exhibition in complete darkness. Experience five different Hong Kong themed environments using your non-visual senses with the help of a visually impaired guide. Reservations in advance are recommended.

- Hong Kong Cultural Centre (香港文化中心), 10 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, +852 2734 2009, [3]. Opened in 1989, the Cultural Centre, with its prominent position on the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront is a contender for being the most famous ugly building in Hong Kong. However, if you are a lover of the arts, don't judge this building by its bland exterior, inside the architects have created a superb space that really does do justice to the sights and sounds of each performance.

- Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Centre, Kowloon Park, Haiphong Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, +852 2208 4400, [4]. Free.

- Hong Kong Museum of Art, 10 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, +852 2721 0116, [5]. M-W, F-Sa 10AM-6PM. It is a fascinating, strange and elusive place. The entrance lies up one floor, mimicking the “temple” approach to the high altar of culture and art. Once you arrive on the first floor, you are bathed in light from the wall of glass that gives you a panoramic view of Hong Kong Island. The objects on show are Chinese ceramics, terracotta, rhinoceros horn and Chinese paintings. There is also a temporary exhibition space devoted to items from their own collection with additional lent material. There is also space for contemporary art produced by Hong Kong artists, most of whom have moved away from the traditional Chinese art forms to fusion art with North American and British influence, reflecting Hong Kong's colonial past. $10, concessions $5.

- Hong Kong Museum of History, 100 Chatham Road South, Tsim Sha Tsui, +852 2724 9042 (hkmh@lcsd.gov.hk, fax: +852 2724 9090), [6]. M, W-Sa 10AM-6PM; Su 10AM-7PM. The permanent exhibition covers the history of Hong Kong from millions of years ago until the reunification with China in 1997. Exhibits are about the nature, culture and history of Hong Kong. Also special exhibitions changing every few months. Expect to use 1½-3 hours. $10, concession $5, Wednesday free.

- Hong Kong Science Museum, 2 Science Museum Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, +852 2732 3232, [7]. M-Tu, W-F 1PM-9PM; Sa-Su 1PM-9PM. Large museum with many interactive exhibits including a energy machine and an airplane. A museum which decided to make an architectural statement about its purpose, yet somehow got it horribly wrong. This museum is primarily aimed at children. The maths puzzles and optical illusions on the top floor are challenging. There is a giant Rube Goldberg machine spanning the entire museum that is run for a few minutes every two hours. $35 (permanent exhibitions only $25).

- Hong Kong Space Museum, 10 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, +852 2721 0226, [8]. Quite a small museum, with a basic history of space flight in static exhibits, including a single exhibit on Chinese space flight. It also has interactive exhibits, allowing you to fly a hang glider, work a space motion system, and simulate walking on the moon. The museum has a planetarium attached that shows movies projected onto the planetarium roof. Plan ahead if you want to ensure you see an English session, as most are Cantonese. It is fun for kids aged around 10 to 15 years. Admission is free on Wednesdays.

- Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum, 41 Tonkin Street, Sham Shui Po, +852 2386 2863 (fax: +852 2361 2105), [9]. M-W, F-Sa 10AM-6PM; Su 1PM-6PM. Tomb from the Eastern Han dynasty (AD 25 - 220) discovered in 1955. Exhibition hall displaying pottery and stuff from the excavation of the tomb. Free.

Parks and nature
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- Kowloon Walled City Park When the British returned after the war, the Walled City remained notorious for drugs, vice and many things shady and criminal. Here, triad gangs operated alongside dodgy dentists and refugees escaping the cultural revolution. In 1987, after so many years of being beyond the reach of the law, the colonial government, in consultation with the Beijing authorities, made the bold decision to raze the place to the ground. Sadly, the park that remains is very tame in comparison to its distinctive history, but it does offer a few clues and remnants from its colourful past.

Other
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Do
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- Experience the Hong Kong Story at the Hong Kong Museum of History in Tsim Sha Tsui. Forget the idea that all of Hong Kong museums are frumpy and boring. The Hong Kong Story is a real must go and do, ideal for those who want to make sense of Hong Kong's vibrant past in a way that is engaging and interactive. Allow at least two hours for your visit. Take Exit B2 at Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station and walk for about 10 minutes.

- Afternoon tea in the lobby at the Peninsula Hotel is an elegant tradition that enables visitors to savour a little of the grandeur of Hong Kong's colonial past. It is one of the more affordable ways to experience the services of one of Hong Kong's most extravagant hotels. Afternoon tea is served between 2 PM and 7 PM, daily. The dress-code is smart casual.

- Take a walk in Kowloon Park where you will find not only pleasant gardens but aviaries, museums, and sporting facilities including Hong Kong's best swimming pool complex which offers both indoor and outdoor pools. A wide-range of swimming, diving and children's play-pools will appeal to kids of all ages, and their frazzled parents who are seeking a safe place for youngsters to play away from the traffic.

- Shanghai Street runs north-south parallel to Nathan Road and offers an easy to navigate urban transect. Start at the north-side of Kowloon Park and wander up to Langham Place, a modern shopping and hotel complex which is next to Mong Kok MTR station. Along the way you will experience Kowloon in its raw authenticity. This is not your regular tourist trail, but crumbling tenements and small-scale industrial and commercial outfits blur to form an urban landscape that will make you wish that you had brought your camera along.

- Visit the former Marine Police Headquarters on Canton Road in Tsim Sha Tsui. Dating back to 1884, it is an attractive colonial building that has been recently renovated to become a major tourism attraction with shops and restaurants.

- You're never too old for Tai Chi on the Avenue of the Stars. Free lessons in English M,W-F mornings from 8 AM-9 AM.

- A section of Portland Street in Mong Kok hosts Hong Kong's unofficial red-light district, with a dizzying assortment of karaoke bars, hostess bars, saunas, brothels and restaurants. This area is frequently the scene from Hong Kong triad films. Great street food and colourful characters can also be found. It's best to go in the evenings when the street is brightly lit with neon. Despite the vice that transpires there, it is perfectly safe to visit anytime -- but be careful about taking pictures as many people will not wish to be photographed. Ride to MTR Mong Kok station and, as you emerge from exit C3, walk southward.

- Hong Kong Coliseum, 9 Cheong Wan Rd, Hunghom. Multi purpose in door arena with 12,500 seats. A famous landmark shaped almost like an upside down pyramide. Used for sport events, concerts and other.

Buy
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If your budget doesn't quite stretch to the Tiffanys, Guccis and Shanghai Tangs of Hong Kong Island, head to Kowloon for more affordable shopping.

Shopping Malls
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- Harbour City is an enormous shopping mall in Tsim Sha Tsui, the largest in Hong Kong. It is next to the Star Ferry pier. There are shops of almost any description there. The goods are mostly mid price range to high price brand name goods.

- Elements 圓方, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui. Opened in 2007, Elements is Hong Kong's latest mega-mall. Aimed at wealthy shoppers, it has five themed shopping zones: Metal, Wood, Water, Fire and Earth. Owned by the MTR Corporation, the shops are located above Kowloon MTR station. Probably not worth going out of your way for, but it does have some of the most extravagant public toilets in Hong Kong.

- Festival Walk is another excellent shopping mall in the suburb of Kowloon Tong. A very pleasant place to shop, similar to Pacific Place but catering more to locals.

- Langham Place, located in Mong Kok, is an entertainment complex comprising of a 15-storey shopping mall, a 59-level Grade A office tower and the 5-star Langham Place Hotel. Over 300 shops where you will find everything from fashion labels to casual wear, from accessories to electronics. On special occasions, large crowds will gather under the 'Digital Sky' to celebrate festive events such as the New Year's Eve countdown. Throughout the year, there will also be live musical performances, art exhibitions, and a host of special events to keep people entertained.

- Lok Fu Centre, next to Lok Fu MTR station, is a place for cheaper goods and food. Located in a public housing estate, goods are generally more affordable than in other places. There is also a large department store here.

- Tsim Sha Tsui's main artery Nathan Road is packed with stores, particularly cheap electronics shops. Be careful when shopping here; these slippery guys know every trick in the book and some stores are notorious for overcharging tourists. Locals seldom go to Tsim Sha Tsui for electronic products. It is more advisible to go to Mong Kok or Sham Shui Po instead.

If you are a book lover and like to meet other backpackers, you can try The Travellers Home Bookshop located on 2/f 55 Hankow Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

Markets
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- The Temple Street Night Market encompasses a block of streets in Kowloon barricaded at the end of each day with stalls selling almost anything until midnight. You can buy the usual touristy stuff, but there are also bargains like Chinese silk pajamas, toys, electronics and cheap leather goods. Arrive at Yau Ma Tei MTR Station Exit C, then walk up Man Ming Lane to Temple Street after nightfall. Be prepare to bargin vigorously as there are no fixed prices. Also, don’t forget to watch singers and musicians perform an aria from their favorite Peking opera (free, but donations appreciated) or get your future revealed by fortune tellers reading your palm and face or by using animals, cards or dice. Most of them can do readings in English. Professional Chinese chess players can also be found plying their trade in the public square.

- The colourful Flower Market and the adjoining Bird Garden (Prince Edward St West) are worth a visit even if shrubs and parrots aren't high on your shopping list.

- In Mong Kok, Tung Choi Street (通菜街), popularly known as the Ladies' Market (女人街), is Hong Kong's biggest outdoor shopping experience. Prices here may not be the cheapest, as the area is popular with tourists, but the variety, chaos and sheer number of sellers is mind-boggling and well worth the visit. It is also opened during daytime, unlike the nearby Temple Street Night Market. As with other markets lacking fixed prices, those perceived as being tourists will be quoted a higher price -- so bring your sharpest bargaining skills. Be careful as the market also sells some realistic non-authentic goods (fake Louis Vuitton bags are popular). The pedestrian zone is mostly for electronics and contains clothing stores from Hong Kong's most popular chains. The easiest way to get into the area is through Mong Kok MTR station, Exit B2 or B3.

- Cheung Sha Wan Road is famous for garments. There are many shops selling clothes along Cheung Sha Wan Road. It is within walking distance from Sham Shui Po MTR Station. A number of bus routes also pass along Cheung Sha Wan Road.

Electronics and Computers
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- Sham Shui Po has the largest number of computer and electronics shops.The Golden Computer Centre is the largest computer mall in Hong Kong, with both hardware and software vendors competing extremely vigorously. This is a Mecca for nerdy-trainspotter-types, mostly men, who salivate over the latest widget. The nearby Apliu Street has a collection of market stalls, where you can find phones, small electronic devices as well as DIY tools. Even if you are not that interested in electronic bric-à-brac, the pedestrianised streets in the area have a buzz about them that make a visit interesting. Look out for the "High Phone" which is sold at a fraction of the cost of the Californian version. Use Sham Shui Po MTR, Exit D.

- Mong Kok is popular for consumer electronics and computers. Shops can be found along the road, but normally the shops on upper floors, which tourists may miss, often sell things cheaper. A block of famous "upper floor" electronics shops, which is popular among locals, is Fa Yuen Commercial Building (75-77 Fa Yuen Street), which is easily accessible from Mong Kok MTR Station. If you're after a new phone, the Sin Tat Shopping Centre on Argyle Street is home to many sellers with a wide selection, from iPhones to Japanese imports. When buying electronic items in Hong Kong, remember that you have limited consumer rights and a bargain may not always be such a good deal. Be aware that if the product is not tagged with a price, you could be "slaughter", with a ridiculous profit margin which the seller will pretend to try his best to give you a discount that is still way overprice by Hong Kong standards but might seem reasonably priced by your country's standards.

Eat
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Kowloon is a great place to go for cheap and authentic Chinese, Indian, Nepalese and Thai food. It makes a welcome change from following the sophisticates who dine across the harbour in Soho. However, for those who seriously want to splurge, some of this SARs swankiest restaurants are to be found Kowloon-side.

Budget
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Temple Street south of Mong Kok is a great place to eat Chinese street food. You have not been to Honkers unless you have eaten in this street. Temple Street, famously featured in Chinese cinema, is one of the few pedestrianised streets in Kowloon where you can sit, relax and watch the world pass by. Seafood is a popular choice, but most restaurants will provide you with an extensive English/Chinese menu that caters for most tastes. Frog is a tasty option, or try the oyster omelettes.

The Chungking Mansions (36-44 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui) houses many budget Indian and Nepalese restaurants. Touts at the front entrance will lead you to the restaurants via the small rickety lifts. Be warned that the competition between the touts can become very competitive, sometimes aggressive, so you should be prepared to make your choice as quickly as possible to avoid being dragged away to a restaurant that you did not really plan on going to. Chungking Mansions is one of the most (in)famous buildings in Kowloon. To many local people it is the very best place for cheap, honest, Indian or Nepalese food, whilst others will condemn it as a rat-infested hell-hole with a good chance of diarrhoea thrown in for free.

The immediate area northwest of Jordan Rd and Nathan Rd in Jordan contains a kaleidoscope of cultures and people from India, Laos, Cambodia and other Southeast Asian nations. Many of them have opened restaurants with authentic cuisine of an international flavour. There are also street restaurants offering Chinese-style seafood, where you can closely view fish, shrimp or crab before being slaughtered for your order. Although the neighbourhood looks rundown, it is safe and filled with pedestrian and vehicular traffic almost around-the-clock. At night, you'll likely get solicited for patronage by restaurant employees. The best way to get into this district is by using Jordan MTR, Exit A.

The Chinese fast food chain Cafe De Coral has numerous locations in Kowloon. The one on the corner of Ichang Street and Ashley Road in Tsim Sha Tsui is believed by many to offer some of the best food (for its price) in Hong Kong.

- CitySuper. A local upscale supermarket chain with pan Asian, Western style food and has its own food court in Harbour City on Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.

- Choi Lung Restaurant, (Shek Kip Mei MTR Station, B2 Exit). A typical local Chinese restaurant offering dim sum and a Cantonese style dinner. Dim Sum starts from $4.80. It is a nightclub after seven with contemporary music.

- Dragon Centre Food Court, 8th Floor, Dragon Centre Shopping Centre, Sham Shui Po (ear Sham Shui Po MTR Station, accessible on foot). This food court provides a variety of Chinese, Southeast Asian and Western cuisines at attractive prices. Dishes range from $10 up.

- Fa Yuen Street Complex, 123A Fa Yuen Street (near Mong Kok MTR Station). A complex consisting of a wet market, cooked food centre, sports centre and a public library. It is a place where you can find cheap and genuine Hong Kong style food in Kowloon.

- Istanbul Express, Shop F-1. G/F. Rose Mansion, 1 Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui. This is a place for Turkish kebabs.

- Mr. Wong's, Yau Ma Tei. This one is popular with exchange students in Hong Kong, offering all the food you can eat and all the beer you can drink for only $40!

- Swaget. This restauarant on the first floor of Chungking Mansions is, arguably, one of the best Indian restaurants in Hong Kong.

- Tim Ho Wan, Shop 8, 2-20 Kwong Wa Street, Mong Kok. 10AM-10PM daily. It is said to be the cheapest Michelin starred restaurant in the world, serving a variety of dim sum dishes starting at $10. Be prepared to wait one, two or even three hours if you come on a busy day (you get a numbered menu/ticket and can come back later).

Mid-range
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- Jade Palace, 4th floor, Star House. A tasty and tourist-friendly dim sum spot. Order by selecting from a card (also in English), not from a cart. Try the shrimp and chive dumplings and the tripe in ginger soup. Dim sum served from 11 AM to 3 PM daily, dishes $16-40 each.

- Perfect Vegetarian Food, (take the MTR to Wong Tai Sin, exit via B3, enter the shopping centre and it is immediately on the right.). This Buddhist restaurant serves a very wide range of delicious vegetarian food. Food can be ordered by a small single serving or a large serving (around $60) and dim sum is available until 4 pm. Many dishes imitate meat and are simply described as the meat dish, e.g., beef and noodles. Despite the taste and appearance being incredible realistic, rest assured it is completely vegetarian fare.

- Red Ant, G/F, 27 Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2375-9698. A modern bistro-like restaurant with a wide selection of light meals and snacks. No alcohol is served but there is a long list of fresh juices and teas.

- Yat Tung Heen, Eaton Hotel, [10]. Cantonese dishes and dim sum, from traditional favourites to original creations.

- Aberdeen Seafood Restaurant (香港仔海鮮小菜), Temple Street, Jordon. Eat outside on the pavement and watch the world pass you buy in this busy street for pedestrians. Serves goose and other meat dishes in addition to seafood. A cheap place to drink beer.

- Lamb Rack (羊鞍餐廳), 44 Fuk Lo Tsun Road, Kowloon City (Close to the Kowloon Walled City Park), 2383 1033. Serves good lamb and snails in a French-Hong Kong style. $100.

Splurge
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- Fook Lam Moon, 53-59 Kimberley Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui. The Yum Cha/Dim Sum is excellent. The service and decor is also impressive. Expect to pay around $55 per serve for the mid range dishes. The English menu is only a small subset of the Chinese menu so take along someone who can translate to increase your choice of dishes.

- Gaddi's, Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315 3171, [11]. Arguably Hong Kong's leading restaurant that has delighted aficionados of French food and wine for over 80 years. This is the place where you can test your own command of the French language against French-speaking Chinese waiters. You will be disappointed if you are expecting great harbour views.

Drink
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Notable watering holes:

- Aqua. Nearby at the top of the 1 Peking Road office building is an alternative and less touristy spot with equally impressive views. As well as a bar, they have a Japanese and Italian restaurant for those without a budget.

- Biergarten, 5 Hanoi Street, Tsim Sha Tsui (Use MTR Exit N1 or N2.), 2721 2302. This friendly German bar is one of the few places in Kowloon where you can find a good range of quality beers. Excellent German food is served — not just sausages and sauerkraut. Use Exit N2 at East Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station. $100 - 150.

- Felix, 5 Hanoi Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui. Atop the Peninsula Hotel on Salisbury Rd, is known for its Philippe Starck interior and the views of the harbour skyline, whilst the men's bathroom has an impressive view up Nathan Road. According to legend, the world's first screwdriver was mixed up here, sampling this simple mix of orange juice and vodka will set you back around $100 a pop.

- Hutong, 28th floor, 1 Peking Rd, 3428 8342. Hutong is a great place to get a good view of Hong Kong from the top floor of a business building. It's a Michelin starred restaurant with amazing food — try the signature crispy lamb breast with garlic and ginger.

- P.J. Murphy's. A couple of blocks north on Nathan Road from Ocean Terminal between Salisbury Road and Mody Road. Murphy's Bar is a western-style Hong Kong drinking establishment. Enjoy a Guinness with a perfect pour. Throw your tips through the dart board behind the bar.

Drinking areas:

- Knutsford Terrace, near the Miramar hotel is perhaps best described as the 'Lang Kwai Fong' of Kowloon, and has a large number of bars and restaurants of variable quality that cater for mid-range budgets. A little smaller and less phrenetic than Lan Kwai Fong, but well worth the effort to poke your nose along this narrow street on a Saturday evening.

- Ashley Road, between Nathan Road and the Ocean Terminal shopping mall, features many Western restaurants and bars.

- Mody Road/Centenial Garden. Close to many good hotels, this area of Tsim Sha Tsui offers a more relaxed environment for a drink. Here you will find bars and restaurants spilling out onto the pavement. Leave East Tsim Sha Tsui station at Exit P1, and head past the Kowloon Shangri-La hotel.

- Tung Choi Street, between Prince Edward Road and Boundary Street, is one of Kowloon's up-and-coming bar strips. Few tourists or expats venture here, but there are nearly two dozen bars. Some specialize in karaoke while others have open fronts and extensive drink menus. Prince Edward MTR, exit A.

Be wary of entering the girlie bars scattered around the southern tip of Tsim Sha Tsui. Their entrances are usually decorated with photos of women in various stages of undress. Strip bars are not popular with locals for good reason. There are reports of these places being owned by rough people, even triads, and may place unexpected exorbitant charges on your tab (such as a fee to talk to a girl). They may even escort you to an ATM if you don't have enough cash. The days of Suzie Wong has long passed. Entering these places is highly not-recommended.

Sleep
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Budget
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A large number of guesthouses are located in Tsim Sha Tsui, Mong Kok and Jordan offering cheap, small but generally comfortable and safe accommodation licensed by the Hong Kong government. These are barebone places to stay so there will be no restaurants, souvenir shops or newspaper delivery. Most owners will only speak basic English. Chung King Mansions and Mirador Mansions, both on Nathan Road in Tsim Sha Tsui are famously home to a number of budget hotels and hostels. Having attracted western backpackers for decades, these guesthouses have become increasingly popular with budget travellers from mainland China. Staying at budget hotels is entirely at your own risk and you are advised to seek recommendations from other travellers. Please remember to post your own recommendations here.

Expect budget hotel rooms to be undecorated and small with only a bed (or beds), night stand, telephone and television. Noise from fellow travellers may be a problem, so invest in good earplugs. Most will have "in-suite" bathrooms while others have communal bathrooms. Upon check-in, you should ask the owner how to turn on the water boiler unless you want to shower with cold water. Some guesthouses will include free wireless Internet. Virtually all rooms will come with air-conditioning.

Bookings are not needed and some Wikitravellers have reported that bookings have not always been honoured. The best way to secure a room is simply by arriving at around 1:00pm, when many of last night's guests have just checked out. Ask to see the room before paying, and you should pay for only one night. If you're happy with the first night, the owner will almost always happily extend your stay. You should also ask if there's 24 hour unassisted entrance (which is recommended) or if you have to ring a bell at night. Credit cards aren't accepted, it's cash only. Remember to ask for a receipt with check-in and check-out dates clearly printed.

Prices generally range from $150-$250 per night for a single room with en-suite bathrooms. If you are comfortable with a community bathroom, expect to pay about $120. If you know how long you are staying, negotiate in advance to get a lower rate: they want your business over several days, so they will be willing to drop their prices to even $90 a night for a four or five night stay. However some less honest managers tend to increase their prices dramatically around public holidays, in which case it will take either a reservation or a very hard bargaining to get back to the prices mentioned above (or you can simply try and pick a good one, but it can take several hours).

There are more accommodation options on the Chung King Mansion, including dormitory rooms. The building which was once an office building is over populated by the countless cheap hostels within it and is now home for lots of foreigners from poor countries all around the world. The massive amount of people creates a queue of up to 15 min to the elevators at rush hours.

Among those that have a long history are the Travellers Hostel, Block A, 16 Fl in Chungking and the Garden Hostel, 2Fl, Mirador Mansions[12]. There are places in the Mansions however that travellers seeking fair lodging should definitely avoid. Among them are the Fortunate Guest House and Peninsula Guest House, both owned by the same shady individual who will not hesitate to put you in another, cheaper guesthouse while making you pay disproportionate fees and keeping the difference. The said individual has apparently earned himself quite a reputation among the chinese guesthouse owners, and is usually seen on the ground floor trying to attract customers.

- Cosmic Guest House, 12/F, Block A1, Mirador Mansion, (852) 2369 6669, [13]. A clean hostel with mostly friendly staff, you can get clean dorms here for $60, or bargain for a good deal on one of the tiny private rooms with air-conditioning and cable TV.

- Dragon Hostel, 83 Argyle St, Mong Kok, [14]. Tiny but clean rooms with aircon and free Internet at reception. Located on the 7th floor and a short walking distance from Mong Kok MTR Station. (852) 2395 0577.

- Hakkas Guest House, Flat l 3/f., new lucky house, 300 Nathan Road, (852) 2771 3656. This well-maintained guesthouse is home to 10 immaculate rooms and is one of the best budget deals at the Yau Ma Tei end of Nathan Rd.

- Hop Inn (樸樸旅舍), 2A Hanyee Building, Hankow Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong (located in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui district on Hankow Road), (852) 2881 7331 (enquiry.hopinn@gmail.com), [15]. A clean & stylish hostel with friendly staff, one of the best in the Tsim Sha Tsui area. Each room was designed by a different local artist / illustrator (Very interesting).

- Lee Garden Guest House, 36 Cameron Road, Kowloon. Tiny but clean rooms, this hostel is in a great location in Kowloon, near the MTR station and just a few blocks from Nathan Road.

- New International Guest House, 11th floor Chung King Mansion, 36-44 Nathan Rd, Kowloon, 2368 7693 (newintlgh@hotmail.com). Located on 11th floor of Chung King Mansion, this is one of the nicer guesthouses in the building. Rooms are small (like most in Chung King Mansion), but clean and cheerful. A double room with A/C, TV and in-room wireless internet access should cost around $250 per night, perhaps less during low quieter times or for those willing to bargain hard.

- New Peking Guest House, Block A Flat A1 12/F, Chung King Mansion, 40 Nathan Rd, +852-94643684, [16]. Rooms are small but very clean, and staff is very friendly and helpful. $200.

- USA Hostel Hong Kong, Flat F1, 13th Floor, Mirador Mansions Bldg, 58 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, (852) 2311 2523, [17]. Located in an old building that is also home to stores and other commercial enterprises, expect a budget hotel which (usually) is clean. Ask to see the room first, or you'll get a really small one. Generally, the next day they will move you out of the good room into one of the smaller ones. Also don't be surprised to see the television and shower not function properly. It is right beside Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station. $290.

- Welcome Guest House, 7th floor Chung King Mansions, 36-44 Nathan Rd, Kowloon, 2721 7793 (guesthousehk@gmail.com), [18]. checkout: 12:00. Good guest house in Chung King Mansions. Doubles go for $180, are fairly roomy and are equipped with AC, fridge, TV, telephone and bathrooms with hot shower and toilet. Singles are $130, are positively tiny and don't have a fridge. Most rooms, apart from those farthest from the reception have free WiFi. Rooms are clean but are of a rather mediocre standard (leaky sinks, some cracked tiles, nothing too serious); sheets are changed and rooms cleaned daily. The biggest problem with this guest house is that some of the air-con units are rather noisy (even when turned off), so if you have trouble sleeping it's worth bringing your own earplugs. The staff are very friendly and trustworthy. Some travellers report of leaving their luggage, including (rather expensive) laptops and kindles in plain sight (in their rooms) unattended for several days, and nothing having been taken or tampered with.

- Tokyo/Australian guesthouse, 16th floor Chung King Mansions, 36-44 Nathan Rd, Kowloon. checkout: 12:00. A clean guesthouse with TV, good WiFi, fridge, hot water, AirCon and ensuite bathroom. The rooms seem to be quite modern and updated although fairly tiny, but that's typical for the Chung King Mansions. Owner is a pretty nice and helpful guy. Room was cleaned and made up every day. Hot water is pretty strong and good! The beds in the twin rooms (sleeps 2) go for about $250.

- Wonderful Inn, 5/F, Golden Crown Court, 66 - 70 Nathan Road, Kowloon, (852) 2302-4812, [19]. Clean rooms, fast service & helpful staff. $400 and up.

Mid-range
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- Citadines Ashley (香港馨乐庭亚士厘服务公寓), 18 Ashley Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, (852) 2262 3062 (enquiry.hongkong@the-ascott.com, fax: (852) 2262 3000), [20]. Each of the studios features a living space which doubles up as a home office, with internet access. From $1,350.

- Eaton Hotel Hong Kong, [21]. This four-star hotel is located in Jordan overlooking Nathan Road and is a short-stop from the MTR station.

- Evergreen Hotel Hong Kong, 48 Woo Sung Street, Jordan, [22]. It is a reasonable hotel with clean rooms, friendly staff and good location near Jordan MTR station, Temple Street night market and Nathan Road. Special internet rates available.

- Harbour Plaza Hong Kong, (852) 2621 3188, [23]. Located in Hung Hom with roooms overlooking Victoria Harbour. Large outdoor swimming pool. Free shuttle bus to Tsim Sha Tsui.

- Hotel Benito Hong Kong, 7-7B Cameron Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, (852) 3653 0388, [24]. This is a new hotel (opened late 2007) with rates at around the $800 up. It has a very good location in Tsim Sha Tsui and is 2-minutes from the MTR station.

- The Salisbury YMCA, 41 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 852-2268-7000, [25]. The Salisbury is Hong Kong's main YMCA and is a well regarded hotel. All rooms have private bathrooms and some have good views of the harbour. The location, next to the Peninsula hotel and near the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station can't be beaten. Rooms start around $900 per night, making this a very popular choice with budget minded families. If you have a dependable schedule, reservations well in-advance are highly recommended. Other Y services (swimming pool, gym, restaurants, etc.) are available to hotel guests either free or at reasonable rates.

Splurge
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- Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Tsim Sha Tsui, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, +852 2311 1234 (hongkong.tsimshatsui@hyatt.com), [26]. 381 rooms and suites with views of Victoria Harbour and Kowloon skyline, Sky Garden and outdoor pool. Guestroom amenities: work area, marble bath, wireless internet access. Regency Club Lounge for free continental breakfast, private concierge and secretarial services.

- InterContinental, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, +852 2721 1211. Located right on the Kowloon waterfront, this hotel offers some of the very best views of the harbour and the Hong Kong skyline.

- Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, +852 2721 2111, [27]. Accessible through East Tsim Sha Tsui MTR station, Exit P1. From airport to hotel: It takes 20 minutes by the Airport Express train [28]. Airport Express passengers can take the free Airport Express shuttle bus (route K4) from Kowloon Station to the hotel (duration: 15 minutes).

- Langham Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, +852 2375 1133, [29]. This hotel is an elegant European-Style Hotel located in the heart of Kowloon's busiest commercial and entertainment district - Tsim Sha Tsui, with superb designer boutiques and entertainment on its doorstep. It is just a few minutes' walk from Star Ferry and Victoria Harbour, Tsimshatsui MTR underground station.

- Langham Place Hotel, Mongkok, 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok, +852 3552 3388, [30]. Newly built in 2004, this five-star technological trend setter provides an oasis of tranquility in the bustle of Mongkok, the heart of 'real' Hong Kong. Adjacent to an ultra-modern trendy shopping mall, the hotel is also a stone's throw from traditional street markets selling everything from dried sea cucumber to 'Rolex' watches. The MTR is in the basement so you can reach many of Hong Kong's best tourist sights without leaving air-conditioned comfort. Just a few blocks south is Hong Kong's unofficial red-light district along neon-lit Portland Street.

- Novotel Nathan Road Kowloon Hong Kong Hotel (香港九龙诺富特酒店), 348 Nathan Road, +852 3965 8888, [31].

- Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Rd, +852 2920 2888, [32]. Hong Kong's grand old historic hotel has a commanding presence with some of Hong Kong's best bars, restaurants and luxury boutiques (and equally commanding prices starting at around $2,500 per night). Or how about the $50,000 honeymoon suite package including a helicopter tour of the city? The hotel was taken over as a military headquarter during the Japanese occupation in World War II.

- Regal Kowloon Hotel, 71 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui (MTR Tsim Sha Tsui Station Exit D2), +852 2722 1818, [33]. 600 rooms and suites with wireless Internet access. Near the Temple Street Night Market and shopping areas on Nathan Road. $1100-$2300.

Contact
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Get out
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District New Territories Table of Contents

• Get in

By train

By bus

By bike

• See

Landmarks

Nature

Museums

Temples

Local life

• Do

Horse racing

Outdoor sports

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid Range

Splurge

• Contact

Postal service

Internet access

Get in
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By train
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The MTR has now absorbed the old Kowloon Canton Railway (KCR) to form a larger network that links the New Territories with Kowloon. Confusingly, you may find some local people still referring to the railways in the New Territories as the KCR.

The East Rail from Hung Hom, connects to Sheung Shui, Fanling, Tai Po and Sha Tin on its way to the border with Shenzhen at Lo Wu. The Ma On Shan rail branches out at Tai Wai and is convenient for heading out east towards the Sai Kung peninsula.

The West Rail from Mei Foo or Nam Cheong is the method of choice if you want to go to Tsuen Wan, Kam Tin, Yuen Long, Tin Shui Wai or Tuen Mun.

The Light Rail network in the west region of New Territories might be a good transportation method if you are intended to travel through some of areas in between Yuen Long, Tin Shui Wai or Tuen Mun. There are several interchange station with the West Rail along the network and there is a fare discount when you are interchanging from West Rail to the Light Rail, or vise versa, if you are using the Octopus card.

By bus
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Kowloon Motor Bus Kowloon Motor Bus operates a large number of bus routes to the New Territories. Many routes depart from Kowloon to the New Territories.

- To Tuen Mun: 52X, 53, 57M, 58M, 58X, 59M, 59X, 60M, 60X, 61M, 61X, 62X, 66, 66M, 66X, 67M, 67X, 258D, 259D, 260X, 261, 263, 263M, 960, 961, 962

- To Tai Po: 72, 72X, 73X, 74A, 74X, 75X, 271, 307(from Central, Hong Kong).

- From the Airport: E41, E42, E33, E34, A41, A41P, A43

Bus 64K from Tai Po to Yuen Long provides a convenient (if rather slow) shortcut across the Territories, passing by some attractions including the Wishing Tree and the walled village of Kat Hing Wai along the way.

- To Sai Kung: take the MTR to Diamond Hill station, leave the MTR and follows signs to the bus station that is located at ground level above the station. Take bus 92 to Sai Kung and allow 45 minutes for the journey.

- MTR also operates several local bus routes within Tuen Mun, Yuen Long and Tai Po, which mostly contain intermediate bus stop or terminus in some major railway stations, providing a connection service from some residential area and villages with town centres.

By bike
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Whilst cycling on Hong Kong Island or Kowloon maybe suicidal due to the hostile traffic conditions, things are much easier in the New Territories. Quiet countryside roads, mountain-bike trails and segragated cycle paths alongside busy roads make for pleasant cycling for people of all abilities. Bike rental is available from many locations including Sha Tin, Tai Po Market and Yuen Long, to name a few. Rental fees are approx $30-60 per day for a standard 21-speed commuter bike, or up to $150 a day for a top-end road or mountain bike. It's advisable to keep a good supply of water if you plan on cycling away form the urban areas, as high temperatures and hilly terrain can cause rapid dehydration. Once away from the new towns, there won't be a 7-Eleven in sight. Although small local convenience shops, called 士多 (translated from the English word "store") are common in some villages, especially along famous cycling routes (usually they would have a soft-drink logo advertisement printed next to their name of the shop billboard), their opening times might be unpredictable for tourists.

See
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The main attractions of the New Territories are about experiencing rural life in Hong Kong life, as opposed to the urban energy of Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon peninsula. Although Hong Kong island has some attractive country parks they are eclipsed by those in the more remote areas of the New Territories. The New Towns are of limited interest to many tourists but the most engaging settlement in the New Territories is Sai Kung which has a number of restaurants and bars that will appeal to visitors because of its slower pace of life. Sai Kung also acts as a gateway into some of the best countryside you are likely to find in Hong Kong.

Landmarks
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- Red House, near Tuen Mun Public Riding School ( Light Rail Butterfly station). This is a memorial building to Dr. Sun Yat-sen. The house and the farm was where Dr. Sun Yat-sen planned to overthrow the Qing dynasty. It is named after its appearance, red bricks with plastering in red. The two-storey house is a combination of Chinese and Western architecture. Adjacent to the house is a garden commemorating Dr. Sun Yat Sen and is one of a few places in Hong Kong where the Flag of the Republic of China is flown freely.

- Ping Shan Heritage Trail, Tin Shui Wai. This is a kilometre long trail enabling you to take in the most important buildings in this historical area, including the ancient pagoda of Tsui Shing Lau, the Tang Ancestral Hall and the Kun Ting Study Hall.

- Tsang Tai Uk (曾大屋; lit. Big House of the Tsangs).

- Fu Shin Street Traditional Bazaar.

Nature
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- The Sai Kung Peninsula is also a worthwhile place to visit. Its mountainous terrain and spectacular coastal scenery make this a special place. If you like challenging routes, try going to Sharp Peak (Nam She Tsim in Cantonese). Sharp Peak is famous for its steep slope with a height of more than 400m. The view from the top is fantastic. For a more relaxed route, try to walk along Section 2 of Maclehose Trail.

- Hong Kong Wetland Park [1] is a relaxing park set amidst an ecological mitigation area. One can stroll along a network of board walks built over the marshy area and watch birds from a tower. The park also features a large visitors centre/museum. The museum has many interactive exhibits ideal for children, as well as some live animal habitats. To visit, take MTR West Rail to Tin Shui Wai Station, then the #705 light rail to Wetland Park. The park is pushchair and wheelchair friendly.

- Yan Chau Tong Marine Park.

- A few traditional abandoned villages are connected with hiking trails in the territory. North East New Territories is one of the famous hiking hot spot for the locals.

Museums
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- Hong Kong Heritage Museum, 1 Man Lam Rd, Sha Tin (MTR Sha Tin). For those with a serious interest in Chinese culture, this might appeal to you as one of Hong Kong's best museums. Modern, informative and attractively presented, this museum houses several permanent exhibitions of life in the New Territories, Cantonese opera, and Chinese art, as well as temporary exhibitions of a high calibre. Admission $10, open 10AM to 6PM daily except Tuesday and some public holidays.

- Hong Kong Railway Museum, Tai Po, [2].

Temples
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- Castle Peak Monastery, (near Light Rail Tsing Shan Tsuen station) is classed as a Grade I historic building that has been standing for more than 1000 years. These historic monuments have stood through the ages in a tranquil woodland area. The striking and picturesque surroundings create an enjoyable view, as well as a solemn ambiance. Upon entering the monastery, you will notice the words "香海名山" (Fragrant Sea and Prestigious Mountain) engraved on the portico. The Tsing Shan Temple is among the three oldest temples in Hong Kong. Inside the temple, there is a main worship hall. Walking up the stairs leading to the hall, you will see "一切有情、同登覺地" (which means Everything on Earth Has Ties and Reaches Nirvana Together). The peaceful environment of this Buddhist temple offers an abiding sense of harmony.

- 10,000 Buddhas Monastery (萬佛寺), off Sheung Wo Che St, Sha Tin (MTR Sha Tin exit B, down the left ramp, left to Pai Tau St, right to Sheung Wo Che St). This rather garish but enjoyable modern temple dating from the 1950s in fact contains no less than 12,800 Buddhas lining the walls of the main hall. There's also a nine-story pagoda and some smaller temples above the main complex. Half the fun is getting there, the 500-metre path that climbs up the hill is lined with life-sized golden plastic statues of Buddhas in poses ranging from serene to outrageous. Free admission, but donations welcome.

- Miu Fat Buddhist Monastery ( next to Lam Tei Light Rail Station). This is a temple built in 1960 and is one of the best monasteries for visitors to enjoy.

- Ching Chung Koon ( next to Ching Chung Light Rail Station). A traditional Taoist temple. Many people go to here to worship the gods.

- Kat Hing Wai, Kam Tin Rd (near MTR Kam Sheung). Of more historical than practical interest, this tiny walled village was one of the first settlements of the Tang clan, who arrived in Hong Kong in the 12th century and have dominated much of the area ever since. The village today, however, has lots of nondescript modern lowrise concrete housing blocks crammed behind a crumbling gray brick wall. $1 donation requested, and if you see the old Hakka women lounging near the sole entrance, expect to pay $10 or so if you want to take their picture.

- Lam Tsuen Wishing Tree, near Tai Po [3]. The Wishing Tree is an old tree. Traditionally, it is believed that it will bring good luck and fortune. Nowadays, it is a tourist spot for both Westerners and locals. Simply go to Tai Po Market Railway Station and take the green minibus route 25K, or bus 64K to get to the Wishing Tree. Alternatively, you are advised to take a green taxi from Tai Wo Railway Station if you have 4 or 5 people travelling together.

- Man Mo Temple, Tai Po Market. A temple built in the 1890s. It is regarded by many as a must-see tourist destination in Hong Kong. Get off the train at either Tai Po Market Station, or Tai Wo Station and follow the signs to get there on foot.

- Tsui Shing Lau.

- Tang Ancestral Hall.

- Kun Ting Study Hall.

- Che Kung Temple.

Local life
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To learn about the living environment of Hong Kong's ordinary people, the best way is to have a half-day trip to a public housing estate. A public housing estate is a small community, where you can find residental flats in high-rise storeys as well as commercial complex and cultural facilities. Start the trip in the morning by "Yum Cha" in a Chinese restaurant or food stall in an estate, then visit the commercial centre and the fresh food market. See the life of school children in the afternoon on the lunch break, and visit the community hall and the library to experience Hong Kong life.

- Siu Hong Court is right next to Siu Hong MTR Station. In the middle of the court, you can find a fortune which is a ball shape. The lower part represent the bowl and the upper part is the rice. It represent that every people can have a good life after living here.

- Tsz Tin Village right next to Siu Hong Court. A traditional Hong Kong village.

- Wan Tau Tong Estate is a 5-minute walk from Tai Po Market MTR Station.

- Kwong Fuk Estate can be reached by taking the free MTR feeder bus K18 from Tai Po Market MTR Station.

- Cheung Wah Estate can be reached on foot after arriving Fanling MTR Station.

- Choi Yuen Estate is adjacent to Sheung Shui MTR Station.

Do
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The New Territories offer a wealth of hiking and sports opportunities as well as one favoured Hong Kong pastime, horse racing.

Horse racing
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- Sha Tin Racecourse, Sha Tin Racecourse near Sha Tin (special services to MTR Racecourse on race days)[4]. Participate in the most popular sport in Hong Kong at games held most Saturday afternoons from September to June. Regular stand seats $10, but a special package rate Special package available to overseas tourists only allows box access for $50.

Outdoor sports
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- Tai Po Waterfront Park [5]. The Tai Po Waterfront Park is the largest park in Tai Po District. The Park provides a wide range of facilities including a 1.2 long promenade, rest-gardens, sitting-out areas, a jogging trail with fitness stations, a cycling track and a 600-seat amphitheatre. There is also a 32.4-metre-high Lookout Tower in the Park. After visiting the tower, visitors may move on to the Insect House nearby. Take a green taxi instead of bus if you have 4 or 5 people travelling together from Tai Po Market Railway Station.

- Tai Mei Tuk [6]. Tai Mei Tuk is famous for the natural view of Pat Sin Leng and Plover Cove Reservoir, the largest reservoir in Hong Kong. You can also make use of the free barbecue site in Tai Mei Tuk and the adjoining country park. Get off from Tai Po Market Railway Station and take bus 75K or green minibus 20C.

- Kam Shan Country Park [7]. Kam Shan Country Park, also known as Monkey Hill, is famous for the wild monkeys. It is at the north of Kowloon, can can be easily accessed by taking the KMB route 72, 81 or 86B from Kowloon or New Territories. A free barbecue site is available in the country park.

- Tuen Mun (屯門), Tuen Mun MTR (West Rail Line). At the far western tip of the New Territories, Tuen Mun has the popular Golden Beach (actually an artificial beach, with sand imported from Hainan) and the Tuen Mun Kau Hui market.

Buy
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- Tuen Mun Town Plaza in Tuen Mun is a huge shopping complex which sells mid-range and valuable good of all types. Well worth a visit and you can enjoy it on weekends. Located just a five minute walk from Tuen Mun MTR station. It's also connected with another two Light rail stations.

- New Town Plaza in Sha Tin is a huge shopping complex which sells mid-range goods of all types. Well worth a visit but it will be crowded on weekends. Accessible through the MTR, change at Kowloon Tong station if travelling from Hong Kong island. It also connects with a few nearby but smaller shopping malls via the footbridge networks.

- Tai Po Megamall, Tai Po [8]. A group of shopping malls in the district. It is less crowded than New Town Plaza. Easily accessible by MTR and KMB buses. Take bus K12 from Tai Po Market Railway Station. It can also be reached by the buses which terminates at Tai Po Central.

- Uptown Plaza next to Tai Po Market Railway Station is a regional shopping centre in Tai Po.

- Tai Wo Shopping Mall next to Tai Wo Station is a typical shopping centre in a public housing estate. Do not expect a variety choice of shops are available, but goods are at reasonable price because the customers are targeted on local people.

- Hang Heung (恒香), located in Yuen Long (元朗) at 64-66 Castle Peak Road, is arguably Hong Kong's most famous Chinese bakery and famous among ethnic Chinese worldwide for its Sweetheart cakes (老婆餅). Other products include egg rolls (蛋卷) and almond biscuits (杏仁餅). To get there, take the Light Rail from the Yuen Long MTR station and alight at Tai Tong Road (大棠道) station.

Eat
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Compared with restaurants in Kowloon or Hong Kong Island, the New Territories offers a good range of local dishes, but at a cheaper price. The eateries recommended here are unlikely to have English menus and the odds are that staff are probably not able to speak very good English or Mandarin. If the place is busy, the staff will not have time to help you.

Budget
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In the New Territories, there are many places suitable for budget diners with surplus options of cuisine.

- Wo Sang next to Kei Lun Light rail station in Tuen Mun. It is famous for its traditional Hong Kong dishes. You can sit next to the kitchen and watch how they cook the fried dishes. The roast goose there is also very famous.

- Learn Hop 兩合特色餐廳 next to the Siu Hong MTR station. Located inside the Siu Hong Commercial Complex. It is famous for its choice of Guangdong, wonton and dumpling noodles. Also serves Zha jiang mian.

- Tai Po Hui Market [9]. A modern complex of small stalls. The must-try items are fried pork chop noodles and fish ball noodles. Also, for as little as $10 a dish, you can choose from a variety of culinary styles, including local favourites and dishes from Shanghai, Japan and south Asia. Tai Po Hui Market cooked food centre is located near Tai Po Market MTR Station.

- Chan Kun Kee in Wo Che Estate, Sha Tin. A typical Dai Pai Dong in Hong Kong providing a variety of Cantonese dishes. Get off at Sha Tin Railway Station and take a taxi to Wo Che Estate.

- Cheung Wah Estate Cooked Food Centre near Fanling MTR Station. It is a cooked food centre located in a public housing estate. Dishes start at $10 up.

- Pai Tau Restaurant, Pai Tau Rd, Sha Tin. This little eatery in a stretch of old shophouses near MTR Sha Tin offers basic Cantonese fare with lunch sets for around $25. No English menu, but the staff are happy to assist.

- The mall adjacent to the Tsuen Wan MTR station has many cheap little eateries, none of which have disappointed, and the blocks surrounding it have lots of small bakeries. There are worse ways to spend an early morning than wandering around, inhaling the scent of the neighbourhood and snacking on wonderfully flavoured buns and confections from these establishments.

Mid-range
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If you're looking for an evening out whilst touring in the New Territories, head for Sai Kung (西貢) where you will find a good range of visitor-friendly pubs and restaurants. Sai Kung is rightly famous for its seafood restaurants along the quayside, where you can pick your dinner from an aquarium and have it served any way you like. However, if downing a bucket of bottled beers whilst munching on a plate of crustaceans is not your thing, there is also a fairly good selection of eateries and watering holes to be found in the town centre. Prices here can be reasonable and the cuisine ranges from local to western. Various well-known burger and coffee shops have also found their way to this otherwise secluded part of Hong Kong.

The fastest way to Sai Kung by public transport is to take the MTR to Choi Hung and transfer to minibus 1M (every 5 min) for a straight hop across the mountains. There are public KMB buses from Sha Tin (route 299) and Wu Kai Sha (route 99) as well, but they take the long way around and spend the better part of an hour in the process. An urban taxi from Central, on Hong Kong island, will cost just under $200 (including tunnel fees).

- Fu Ah Seafood Restaurant (富雅海鮮酒家), G/F 27, Hoi Pong St, Sai Kung, 27920069. The second-to-last in Sai Kung's seafood restaurant alley, this unassuming joint does good set meals for $150/person, with reasonably priced beer and no surprises in the bill.

- Dragon Inn Seafood Restaurant (容龍海鮮酒家), 19.5 Miles, Castle Peak Road, Tuen Mun, 24506366. is a famous seafood restaurant in Tuen Mun. The price is more valuable than Sai Kung and you can go to the Sam Shing market to choose your seafood which would provide more variation. It is ranked one of the best seafood restaurant in Hong Kong.

- Shanghai Po Po (上海婆婆), Shop 3207, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza, 3 Tuen Lung Street, Tuen Mun, 2618 3708. one of the best chain restaurant to eat the Shanghainess food. It serve in a big dishes with a valuable price. It's famous for its dan dan noddles and hot and sour soup.

- Lung Wah Hotel is famous for roasted pigeons. It is easily accessible by Sha Tin MTR station. Walk in the direction of IKEA and along the path next to the railway line for around 10 minutes to get there.

- Sham Tseng Yue Kee Roast Goose Restaurant is renowned for its roast goose. You can get there by red minibus from Jordan or Tuen Mun, or regular KMB bus.

- ASRA Indian Restauant, Shop 15&19, 1/F Shatin Galleria, Shan Mei St, Fotan. This is a famous Indian restaurant in Shatin, they serves authentic Indian kebabs and curries. Affordable lunch sets and tasty dinner choices available with free parking. Near Fotan Station, exit B.

Drink
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In addition to Sai Kung's watering holes (see above), in Tai Po Market there are a number of pubs and country clubs along Kwong Fuk Road and the adjacent Luk Heung Lane, Tung Cheong Street. While lacking the glamour of Hong Kong Island's Central district, the area offers more reasonable prices and a friendlier, more local feel. It is about a 5-minute walk from Tai Po Market MTR Station. Overnight transport is readily available on Kwong Fuk Road to take you back to downtown Kowloon and Hong Kong island.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Bradbury Lodge Tai Mei Tuk, Tai Po, New Territories 2662 5123[10]. A youth hostel in Tai Po. Lots of boating, walking and cycling opportunities nearby and right by the scenic Plover Cove Reservoir. Dorms start from $85.

- Ascension House, 33 Tao Fong Shan Rd, Shantin 2691 4196[11]. A hostel run by a Christian group near Shatin. Located in the “jungle” on a mountain in the New Territories, they provide three meals a day including laundry, and have friendly, amiable staff on site.

Mid Range
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- Panda Hotel, 3 Tsuen Wah Street, Tsuen Wan[12]. With over 1,026-rooms, you're sure to find one that takes your fancy. Keep in shape by working out at the gym, or take a dip in their huge outdoor pool.

- Royal View Hotel, 353 Castle Peak Road, Tsuen Wan[13]. Uniquely situated amongst between the Ting Kau and Lido beaches, all 691 rooms give a superb view of the sea. Furnished in a modern design, all rooms feature a kitchen and are fitted out in the latest accessories.

Splurge
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- Harbour Plaza Resort City, Tin Shui Wai [14]. Accessible through Tin Shui Wai MTR Station Exit E2 (Ginza). Has rooms and serviced suites, most of which overlook the Tin Shui Wai Central Park.

- Hyatt Regency Sha Tin (沙田凱悅酒店), 18 Chak Cheung Street, Sha Tin (next to University MTR Exit B), +852 3723 1234 (hongkong.shatin@hyatt.com, fax: +852 3723 1235), [15]. Opened in 2009, this is the first Western-branded hotel in the New Territories, and not only is it gorgeous, but it goes for about a third of the price of an equivalent hotel in Kowloon or the Island. Facilities include spa, heated pool, popular restaurant, apartments for long stays. The downside is the location: it's not even in central Sha Tin, but two stops out by MTR, at least 20 min from the city and with virtually no amenities in the vicinity. Convenient for the Chinese University of Hong Kong (CUHK) and Hong Kong Science Park though. $1000.

- Regal Riverside, Tai Chung Kiu Road Shatin [16]. Four star hotel overlooking the stunning Shing Mun River. The hotel offers a range of facilities and services including airport transfers, jacuzzis and car rental services for convenience and comfort.

Contact
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Postal service
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- Hongkong Post Hong Kong Post has an extensive network of post offices in the New Territories New Territories. Some post offices also have a philatelic section and you can purchase Hong Kong stamps and other postal souvenirs there.

Internet access
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- Public librariesPublic libraries provide free access to the Internet. There is at least one library in every district.

- Community Halls Community Halls also provide cyber stations to users free of charge.

District Lantau Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

From the airport

By train

By boat

By bus

By car

Discovery Bay

• Get around

By bus or taxi

By bicycle

By foot

By cable car

• See

• Do

Discovery Bay

• Buy

• Eat

Discovery Bay

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
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With the opening of the Lantau Link, a road and rail connection between the airport and central Hong Kong in 1997, Lantau Island is now firmly connected to the mainland of the Kowloon peninsula. The new airport at Chek Lap Kok has led to the establishment and rapid expansion of a new town, Tung Chung, and the improved transport links have brought further development in the shape of Disneyland, a cable car to Ngong Ping monastery, and an entire new road to southern Lantau. Sizeable sections of Lantau Island are declared country parks, though the island seems poised for more development.

Discovery Bay[1] is a resort-style residential district located in Lantau Island, Hong Kong approximately 30 minutes by boat from Central District or 10 minutes bus by from the nearest MTR metro station (Sunny Bay). It is home to approximately 15,000 people, including a large portion of expatriates.

Get in
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From the airport
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Lantau Island is adjacent to Hong Kong International Airport, the airport island is linked by two short bridges. The best way to Lantau from the airport is either by taxi, by bus, or by foot. There is no train service from the airport to Lantau, although there is an indirect service with the Airport Express train and the MTR via Tsing Yi. The premium charged by the Airport Express train for this trip will likely make it more expensive than a taxi if there are two or more people travelling.

Taxis from the airport to anywhere in Lantau are relatively fast and pleasant, but only light-blue taxis are allowed on the island. Ask at the reception desk at the airport taxi stand to call for a light-blue car for you. The more common red and green ones are prohibited to go to Lantau.

Alternatively, there are frequent buses that travel towards Tung Chung MTR station, including S1 and S64 from the airport terminal. Although you can use the A35/N35 for travelling to Mui Wo directly from the airport, the frequency of this particular route is sparse. It's usually better to change on to local buses at Tung Chung MTR interchange, where you can find buses to most destinations across Lantau island.

It's a about a 5km walk from the airport to Tung Chung. The main (northern) bridge is a highway that doesn't allow pedestrians, but there is a nice walkway over the southern bridge from the airport to Lantau.

By train
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The Tung Chung MTR line is the fastest way to get to Lantau if you are going to the north of the island. The Tung Chung line also connects with special rail services at Sunny Bay that take visitors directly to Disneyland. The trip to Tung Chung takes around 25 minutes all the way from Hong Kong station and costs $18-20.50. Children 11 years and under enjoy a 50% discount.

By boat
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The obvious way of getting to the island is to take a ferry. Ferries depart from the Outlying Islands pier in Central, to the west of the Star Ferry terminal. The largest operator is the New World First Ferry.

- Discovery Bay: Pier 3, $31 (fast only), every 10-30 minutes.

- Mui Wo: Pier 6, $13.00 (slow) / $25.50 (fast), every 40 minutes.

Ferries to the island, as well as buses, impose a 50% surcharge for travel on Sundays and public holidays (with the exception of services to/from/within Discovery Bay, Disneyland and the airport). It's cheaper, and less crowded, to visit during the week or on Saturdays.

By bus
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Since the opening of the Lantau Link, a number of buses also cross over to Lantau, although they are considerably slower than the MTR and less scenic than the ferries. The local bus timetable in Lantau island is available online. http://www.newlantaobus.com/nlb.html

There is an extensive bus service from the rest of Hong Kong to the airport and Disneyland.

By car
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Whilst you can drive your car onto Lantau, the road system is limited and much of the island is zoned as a country park and is off limits to normal vehicles. If you really want to see Lantau you should get out of your car. The Disneyland is however still accessible by car and connected by the Lantau Link expressway.

Discovery Bay
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Situated on the north-eastern coast of Lantau Island, Discovery Bay is accessible by 24-hour ferry from Central District in Hong Kong Island or by buses from Tung Chung new town, Sunny Bay MTR metro station or from the Hong Kong International Airport at Chek Lap Kok.

Timetables for bus and ferry services:

- Bus [2]

- Ferry [3]

Get around
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By bus or taxi
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On Lantau you can travel by bus and taxi; note that seemingly short distances on a map (eg. Tung Chung to Ngong Ping, less than 6 km by cable car) can take a while (in this case over 40 min!), due to the twisty mountain roads and their circuitous routes.

The major bus interchange in Lantau locates nearby the Tung Chung MTR Station. New Lantao Bus serves numberous of bus routes which connects to most of famous attraction and villages along the Lantau Island. Some bus routes travelling within south Lantau region, connecting places including Tai O and Mui Wo.

By bicycle
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There is at least one bicycle shop in Mui Wo (just opposite the main bus station), where you might be able to rent or at least buy for cheap.

By foot
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If you are not going too far, there are generally convenient footpaths all over the island. For example, there are paved paths all around Mui Wo to some of the villages, many of which are within a 30 minute walk or less. Even if you are traveling a bit far, walking can be a healthy and enjoyable option. To walk from Mui Wo to the airport is only about 3-4 hours.

By cable car
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Ngong Ping 360 [4] is a spectacular 5.7km cable car journey between Tung Chung and Ngong Ping on Lantau Island, which is easily accessible from Tung Chung MTR station. Be aware that there have been some technical difficulties, with the cable car closed and people having to wait for several hours. More information in the Ngong Ping 360 section below. A single trip costs $63 ($96 round trip) on normal days and $74 ($107 round-trip) on special days. The cabins glide over the South China Sea and the verdant mountainous terrain of the North Lantau Country Park for 20-25 minutes and provide some of the best panoramic views in Hong Kong, including the Hong Kong International Airport and the Tian Tan Buddha Statue.
Watch out for people trying to sell you tickets outside of the station. The lastest trend was to sell you a single tour on the cable car and an all-day pass for the Lantau bus system. While it might be nice to take the cable car up to the Buddha (the line for the cable car can be long), and the bus back, the all-day pass for the bus is probably a waste of money.

See
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- Hong Kong Disneyland, Tel.+852 1 830-830 [5]. Asia's second Disneyland was opened in September 2005 and features some of the Disney favourites. The park is accessible via the MTR. Change at the Sunny Bay station on the Tung Chung MTR line for the Disneyland Resort Line. It has four themed areas: Main Street USA, Adventureland, Fantasyland and Tomorrowland. On weekdays tickets are $295 for Adults and $210 for children. Being relatively new, there are fewer rides than the other Disney theme parks. A few rides have a slightly different take on them, but there is little unique here. Some rides, such as Buzz Lightyear, are simply identical to other parks. If you get there at opening time on a weekday, it would be possible to do all the rides and shows by mid-afternoon. English speakers are well catered for, with all attractions narrating in both English and Cantonese. The Jungle River Cruise, however, which depends so much on the English language delivery of the guide doesn't fare well. There is a choice of Cantonese and American "cuisine" around the park. The Fantasyland Banquet Hall offering the broadest range of food types and kids meals to keep everyone happy. Meals around $55. There are a plenty of drinking fountains in the park. Bring a water bottle to fill, or pay a bottle in the park. On weekends and holidays the tickets are $350 for adults and $250 for children. Children under 3 are free. Visit on weekdays to avoid the crowds.

- Inspiration Lake Recreation Centre (迪欣湖), also called Inspiration Lake. It consists of the largest artificial lake in Hong Kong, also 1500 metre jogging trail. It is situated in Penny's Bay, a 15-minutes walk from Disneyland Resort MTR station.

- Ngong Ping 360 [6] - Hong Kong's newest tourist attraction combines a spectacular 5.7 km cable car journey that takes in an impressive cultural themed village and the Tian Tan Buddha. At the themed village there are a couple of attractions. The Walking with Buddha attraction gives an interesting introduction to Buddha, and has different stages, with headphones giving the narration in a variety of languages. The Monkey's Tail is simply a silent animated movie, with a simple moral. A little trivial overall. Combined tickets can be bought to cover all three attractions. There are about 10 restaurants in the village, serving a variety of food, all a little on the expensive side for what they are. There are some other restaurants in the true village, beyond the themed section. The cable car station is adjacent to the Tung Chung MTR.

- Tian Tan Buddha (天壇大佛), Ngong Ping. At over 250 tonnes and 34 metres in height, this is the largest, seated, outdoor bronze Buddha statue in the world. Open 10AM to 6PM, access to the Buddha itself is free, although entering the museum inside during busy times requires a meal ticket for the vegetarian restaurant; a snack costs $23 while full meals are $60 (normal) or $100 (deluxe). Less direct alternatives to the cable car are bus #2 from Mui Wo ferry pier or bus #23 from Tung Chung (both $16/25 on weekdays/Sundays).

- Po Lin Monastery (寶蓮禪寺), Ngong Ping (below the Tian Tan Buddha). The monastery was founded in 1906 by three monks from Jiangsu province. The main temple building houses three bronze statues representing the Buddha of the past, present and future.

- Tai O (大澳). A traditional fishing village with houses built on stilts over the sea. Tai O also called "Eastern Venice". There is a direct bus from Mui Wo ferry pier or Tung Chung MTR station.

- Discovery Bay. As a residential district, Discovery Bay is not really a major tourist destination. However, it boasts a 400m beach, a golf and marina club for members and guests, meaning that the area attracts daytrippers. It also holds a number of festivals, including most notably, Dragonboat races at the beach in May/June and a multi-cultural festival in November.

- Mui Wo (traditional Chinese: 梅窩, Pinyin: Méiwō, lit. "plum nest") is a rural town on the eastern coast of Lantau Island. The main beach in Mui Wo is known as Silver Mine Bay (銀礦灣). There are fast and slow ferry services from Central to Mui Wo. Central - Mui Wo Ferry The fast ferry costs $25 and takes 30 minutes. The slow ferry costs $15, takes 50 minutes and you can go outside. The 3M bus takes you from Tung Chung to Mui Wo. There are a number of temples and old buildings. There is also a waterfall, an old mining cave (sealed off) and numerous hiking trails. Close to the Ferry Pier there are three bicycle rent shops where you rent bikes from between $30 to $150. At the beginning of Silver Mine Beach there is also a place to rent bicycles.

- Chinese White Dolphins. In the waters just off Tung Chung on Lantau Island, live the Chinese White Dolphins . These dolphins are naturally pink and live in the wild, but their status is currently threatened, with it current population estimated to be between 100-200. Take a boat trip with Hong Kong Dolphinwatch [7] to see these pink dolphins, and if you're lucky you can watch them jumping and playing.

Do
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Cheung Sha beach which is about a 20 minute bus ride away has windsurfing and canoe rentals.

- Hikers may wish to try the 70-km Lantau Trail, which does loops around the island. The full route would take several days but is divided into a dozen stages, some of which take less than an hour.

- Citygate Outlet[8] - Located right next to Tung Chung MTR Station, the Citygate is a rare outlet mall with tonnes of mid-priced brands, some of them being Adidas, Esprit, Giordano, Levi's, Nike, Quiksilver and Timberland.

- Swim at Silvermine Beach in Mui Wo or at any of the other beaches around the island.

- Have a BBQ on the beach

Discovery Bay
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Special events and festivals:

- Dragonboat races (around May/June)[9]

- Halloween Festival (October)

- Multi-Cultural Festival (usually in November)

Others:

- Golf (at the Discovery Bay Golf Club, a 27-hole golf course open primarily to members, but also guests during weekdays)

- Boating (at the Discovery Bay Marina Club)

- Hiking (a number of hiking trails lead to other parts of Lantau Island)

Buy
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At the heart of the community lies the commercial centre, DB Plaza, where residents and visitors gather for socialising or functions. As a residential district, most shops serve residents' needs - including supermarkets, banks and chemists; but there also exist a sizable number of independent and novelty shops including:

- Oasis-HK (a lifestyle/homeware shop [10])

Eat
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- The Stoep, 32 Lower Cheung Sha Village, tel 2980 2699. Beachside restaurant with a good western menu and also specialises in serving South African dishes. Although the food is not the main attraction, the location of this restaurant makes it one of the best places to eat and drink in Hong Kong. Booking a table is advisable at weekends and Public Holidays.

- The Po Lin Monastery's vegetarian restaurant is well worth a visit for a taste of Chinese vegetarian food, an artform devoted to turning soybean products into very passable imitations of meat and fish. Meals served from 11AM-4:30PM. A regular meal is $60, a deluxe meal is $100, enquire at the Big Buddha ticket booth.

- High Tide Restaurant, 35 Lower Cheung Sha Village, tel +852 2980 3002, open from 11.30am til late every day except Tuesday. Authentic Thai restaurant. Located right on the beach front, you might think you're in Thailand. An ideal place to get refreshments after a lazy day on one of Hong Kong's best beaches.

- 360 Forest Grill & Restaurant Bar - Overlooking the cable car, 360 Forest Grill & Restaurant Bar offers alfresco dining in a peaceful, garden setting; only moments away from the hustle of Tung Chung. 360 Forest’s cuisine features a wide range of a-la-cart grilled meats and fresh sea foods, three course buffet sets, and standard Asian and European dishes. Happy hour starts daily at 3.00. To make a booking, phone: 2109 4360. Email: discoveryforest@yahoo.com.hk

- China Beach Club, 18 Tung Wan Pau Road, Silvermine Bay (Mui Wo). Head for the beach in the bay and then carry on walking. Serves great food and drinks to the colonial crowd and locals alike. This is a doggie paradise in Hong Kong.

- The China Bear, 3 Ngan Wan Road, Mui Wo. Walk off the ferry and turn left and you will see a cafe/bar next to the sea. If you are looking for a "full English" breakfast, or some western beer, then you have found the right place.

Discovery Bay
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- Café Duvet, 2987 0996.

- Café de Paris, 2987 8203.

- Caramba, 2987 2848.

- Chilli Fagara, 2987 6222.

- Ebeneezer’s, 2987 0036.

- First Korean Restaurant, 2987 9123.

- Fresh Fruit Juice Paradise, 2987 4768.

- Hemingway’s by the Bay, 2987 8855, [11].

- Island Café, 2987 9311.

- Koh Tomyums, 2987 0767.

- La Création, 2987 1829.

- Manta Ray, 2987 2298.

- McSorley’s Ale House, 2987 8280.

- Sopranos, 2987 2915.

- The Flying Pan DB, 2987 7749.

- Uncle Russ, 2987 0068.

- Zaks, 2987 6232.

- ippu, 2987 2886.

Drink
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- China Bear, G/F, Mui Wo Ctr, Mui Wo. $41-$100.

- Mcsorley's Ale House, Shop G11A, G/F, D Deck, Discovery Bay.

Sleep
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There are some guesthouses (a few of which call themselves hotels) and two hostels on Lantau. Lantau also has 10 campsites. When you get off the ferry pier in Mui Wo, there are some booths were you can rent apartments for the weekend. There are several small cabins for hikers at Sunset Peak which go for $300 per cabin/night (sleeps about six people, but very old). There is also accommodation at Disneyland, at the Disneyland Hotel, and the Disney Hollywood Hotel.

- Silver Mine Bay Hotel, (From the ferry turn right and continue along the water.), [12]. Swimming pool, sauna, beach side. Breakfast included $700.

- Ngong Ping SG Davis Hostel at the Po Lin Monastery, 2985 5610, [13]. Reservations made at are not always acknowledged upon arrival, but sometimes when you're told they're booked solid you can still get a bunk. At last enquiry, you needed to be a member of the Youth Hostel Association in order to stay. Membership is available online. Dorm bed: $70.

Contact
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Get out
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You can take a bus to Tung Chung or the ferry to Discovery Bay or Central. There are also inter-island ferries to Peng Chau and Chung Chau.

District Outlying Islands Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By boat

• Get around

• See

Events

Other activities

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Lamma

Peng Chau

• Drink

• Sleep

Understand
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Hong Kong's islands have been and to some extent continue to be Hong Kong's hinterland, home to rustic fishing villages battered by the occasional typhoon, monasteries run by hardscrabble monks and little else. However, the last decade or so have seen some some changes. With the exception of Lantau, the islands are car-free, so expect plenty of bicycles and a chance to escape the noise, aggression and air pollution associated with the modern motor car.

Cheung Chau [1] (長洲) still has a traditional community based on an active fishing fleet and many thriving seafood restaurants. It has a number of reasonable hiking trails and some usable beaches. If you only have time to visit one island, then you might consider Cheung Chau.

Lantau Island (大嶼山) is the largest island and has evolved to be an island of contrasting landscapes. On the north shore isolated villages overlook the airport, while the southern and western coastline have some of the most attractive beaches. Lantau is accessible by MTR but this link to the modern world has done little to spoil the island's reputation as one of the least developed places in Hong Kong. On the south side of Lantau is Discovery Bay (愉景灣) a modern development that has all the sterile charm of a British New Town that caters to wealthy families living in a luxury, car-free, bubble. DB, as it is called, offers a good selection of western bars and restaurants in a high quality environment. Arguably, this place feels culturally detached from the rest of Hong Kong and offers very little to interest the intrepid tourist seeking a more authentic Chinese experience.

Lamma island (南丫島) has become increasingly popular with Western hippies who have created their own small residential community in Yung Shue Wan (榕樹灣). On both sides of the island you will find attractive bars, restaurants and cafes, making it a popular destination for local Chinese people out on a day trip.

Peng Chau (平洲) has a reputation for being dull and lacking in tourist attractions. Yet, if you go there expecting to see very little, you maybe pleasantly surprised. Good seafood restaurants here are cheaper than the other islands and you get the feeling you are off the 'beaten-track' of mass tourism. Perhaps it is the place to go at the end of your holiday when you are weary of the fast-pace of the big city and just want to slow down, have a drink and chat with friends. From Peng Chau you can easily take the dilapidated ferry over to the Trappist monastery on Lantau island and walk, for a couple of hours, along the hilly footpath to Mui Wo. From Mui Wo you can take another ferry back to Hong Kong island. It is located 8 km to the west of Hong Kong Island. The size of the island is 1km square. Peng Chau, as the name suggests, is mostly flat land.

Po Toi islands (蒲苔群島) are around 3km south of Hong Kong island. The Po Toi Islands are about six small island where only Po Toi Island is inhabited. However, during the fishing season there may be around six thousand people living around the islands. The most famous seafood on Po Toi are octopus and "Ma You" Fish (馬鮪魚). Go to Po Toi Island to see the famous rock formations and eat good seafood. You are advised to reserve tables at the restaurant first. Ming Kee Sea-food Restaurant 2849 7038.

Soko islands (索罟群島) are found in the southwest of the Hong Kong SAR. They comprise seven small islands and nine sets of reefs. Today, these islands are uninhabited but in the distant past they were home to many people.

Tap Mun Chau (塔門洲), also known as Grass Island, is in the North East of the territory. It has about 100 residents, mostly fishermen. Its main attraction is its isolation and quality seafood restaurant that was made famous by the patronage of Hong Kong's last governor, Chris Patten.

Tung Lung Chau (東龍洲) which means east dragon island in Cantonese, is found off Clearwater Bay. It has another name, "Nam Tong island"(南堂島).

Tung Ping Chau (東平洲) is found in the North East of Hong Kong, in Mirs Bay (大鵬灣). Today, Tung Ping Chau does not have many residents, however, it used to be a very important island during the war between Japan and China. Then it was an important underground transport route between China and Hong Kong. It was also used by the British military and others who were fighting against Japan. In its heyday, there were 10 villages, providing accommodation for about two thousand people living on the island.

Waglan island, (橫瀾島) near Po Toi, is famous for its lighthouse.

Kwo Chau islands (果洲群島)] are located to the east of Hong Kong island. There are three main islands and 29 small islands. The Kwo Chau Islands look like a bowl of fruit from the air and so this is how they got their name. Likewise, the three main islands look like nine pins from the sky, hence the name. Individually, they are known as East Ninepin Island (Tung Kwo Chau), South Ninepin Island (Nam Kwo Chau) and North Ninepin Island (Pak Kwo Chau). On the islands the dual processes of weathering and erosion have combined to sculpt some fascinating coastal scenery.

Get in
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Travelling to the Outlying Islands is much simpler and easier that many visitors might suppose. Most tourists and local residents use the frequent and inexpensive ferry services to travel to their preferred island. The exceptions to this rule are the smaller and more remote islands where you will need to either hire a boat to take you there or investigate the less frequent and more informal boat services that can, sometimes, be hard to find. However, most Hong Kong people never concern themselves with the smaller islands, so simply head for the Central ferry terminals (alongside the Star Ferry) and make your choice. Having an Octopus card will speed you through the gates because some ferry services only accept payment using coins or Octopus.

See the main Hong Kong article on how to get and use the Octopus Card.

Some services impose a 50% surcharge for travel on Sundays and public holidays. So, it's usually cheaper and less crowded to visit during the week or on Saturdays. Paying more for a premium seat on a ferry is usually a disappointing experience.

By boat
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Ferries for all major islands of interest depart from the Outlying Islands pier in Central, to the west of the Star Ferry terminal. The largest operators are New World First Ferry [2] and the Hong Kong and Kowloon Ferry Company [3]. Some ferries come in slow (or "ordinary") and fast versions. The slow ferry is generally available every other departure, so if the fast ferry comes every thirty minutes, the slow ferry will come every hour. When time tables show an asterisk beside a departure time, it usually means that a slow ferry is available in addition to the fast ferry.

- Cheung Chau Pier 5, every 20-60 minutes. Fares range from $11.50 to $18 on the ordinary ferry on Mondays to Saturdays. Sundays and public holidays the fare rises to $16.80 to $26.20. The fast ferry costs $22.50 on Mondays to Saturdays, and $32.20 on Sundays and public holidays.

- Lamma (Sok Kwu Wan) Pier 4, every 20-90 minutes. Mondays to Saturdays adult fare is $17.70 and on Sundays and public holidays $25. Child (Aged under 12 years) $8.90 or $12.50. Elderly (Aged 65 years or above) / Disabled $8.90 or $12.50. Child aged under three years (accompanied). No charge.

- Lamma (Yung Shue Wan) Pier 4, every 20-60 minutes

Mondays to Saturdays adult fare $14.50 and on Sundays and public holidays $20 Child (Aged under 12 years) $7.30 $10 Elderly (Aged 65 years or above) / Disabled $7.30 or $10 Child under three years (accompanied) No charge. See HKKF [4]

There is also a local ferry service [[5] from Aberdeen to Lamma Island (Mo Tat and Sok Kwu Wan).

- Tap Man Chau: Ferry from Wong Shek Pier in Sai Kung [6] or from Ma Liu Shui Pier near Chinese University.

- Po Toi: The Chuen Kee Ferry departs once a day leaving from Aberdeen, via Stanley. There is also a kaido from Aberdeen every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday.

- Peng Chau: Public ferry from Pier 6 in Central.

- Tung Lung Chau: Ferries from Lei Yue Mun pier in Kowloon, and from Sai Wan Ho, Hong Kong island. Tel 2560 9929 for more information.

- Soko islands: there is no public transport to the Soko islands, you will need to hire a sampan from the harbour at Cheung Chau.

- Tung Ping Chau: Limited service from Ma Liu Shui pier taking 90 minutes.

- Waglan Island: Permission is needed first from the Marine Department.

- Kwo Chau islands: It is a uninhabited island. You have to join a tour or try and rent a small boat (kaido) from Sai Kung.

Get around
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On the islands you're pretty much restricted to walking, renting a bike ($10 an hour or $30 a day is typical) or catching a kaido (街渡 gāaidouh), a small ferry, from one pier to the next.

See
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Cheung Chau [7] (長洲) has no cars except for some small vehicles used by the emergency services. There is a walking tour available around the island with scenic views and temples; look for the tourist map near the ferry pier. It is best to visit in good weather, if it rains, there's nowhere to wait it out because nearly everything is outside. Famous for its Bun Festival [8] in early May, this is a festival where people climb up a tower which is covered with buns. Previously it had been abolished because a young man fell off the tower in 1978. However, thanks to the people who live in Cheung Chau, who campaigned for many years, the government allowed this festival to restart in 1995. The Bun festival lasts for five days and the climax is on the third day when participants dress up as historical characters and ride on floats. When children act on the floats, they appear in the air because of their dress. On the last day, at midnight, buns from the tower will be given to the community, bringing them good luck throughout the year. People believe that the more they get, the luckier they are.

Events
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- Birthday of Tin Hau[9]

Besides Bun Festival, another big festival is the birthday of Tin Hau. Tin Hau is the queen of the heaven. The birthday of Tin Hau is in the Chinese calendar on March 23rd. However, people in Cheung Chau usually celebrate it on the 18th, because in the past, there were no street lights on the island and people couldn't see when they were on their way to the temple during the night time, but a few days earlier meant they could use the moon light to walk to the temple. Now it has become a tradition to celebrate it earlier. During the celebrations, you may see floats, acrobats, lion dancing and effigies of mythical animals.

Other activities
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Besides particpating in the festivals, tourist can visit different sites, for example the temples and caves.

- Tin Hau Temple Tin Hau, the queen of heaven is the god who receives the most respect from many who live on Cheung Chau, especially those who are fishermen. Tin Hau is revered as the god who protects fisherman. Tin Hau has been respected for many years, and so there are four Tin Hau Temples on the island.

- The Cave and Rocks There is a very famous cave on Cheung Chau which is called Cheung Bo Zai Ton. This cave is named after a local pirate and is located at Sai Bay (西灣). The cave is associated with the fictional story of the priate, Cheung Bo Zai, who supposedly hid his treasure in this cave. Along the same coastline are a number of rocks with different shapes and it is a local tradition to imagine what they resemble.

- On Cheung Chau, visitors should also look out for the memorial stone which commemorates a Hong Kong windsurfing athlete, Lee Lai Sa (李麗珊), who won a gold Olympic medal.

- Lamma Island (南丫島 Nàahmā dóu) is worth seeing for a glimpse of an alternative Hong Kong. Be sure to check out the Western settlement of Yung Shue Wan, the row of seafood restaurants in So Kwu Wan, the small agricultural village of Mo Tat, and the very small Tung O village whose residents appear to always play mahjong. It is an interesting day trip to take the ferry to Yung Shue Wan followed by an easy walk to So Kwu Wan to tuck into some delicous seafood before hopping onto the ferry.

- Peng Chau (坪洲 Pìhng Jāu) has eight temples, including a Tin Hau temple dating back to 1792 which houses a whale rib. Outside the Tin Hau Temple there is a stone monument warning about pirates. Finger Hill has views of Disneyland and the Tsing Ma Bridge. Peng Chau still retains 60% of its natural seashore. Around the coast there is a diversity of marine life, including Chinese White dolphins.

- Po Toi (蒲台) is famous for its rock formations, such as Tortoise Rock, Buddha's Palm Cliff and Monk Rock. There are also some prehistoric carvings.

- Soko Islands (索罟群島) are known for the 'rock forest' that surrounds the islands. Tai A Chau also used to have a Vietnamese refugee camp.

- Tap Mun (塔門) has a Tin Hau temple built between 1662 and 1721, housing a bronze bell made in 1737, and a very large swordfish bone.

- Tung Lung Chau (東龍洲) has historic stone carvings (700 years old) and the remains of a fort (demolished in 1810). There are also sea caves around the coast.

- Tung Ping Chau (東平洲) has a 250 year old temple and deserted villages. The island is famous for its beautiful schist rock formations, that have different colours because of the calcium and magnesium in the schist.

- Waglan Island (橫瀾島) is famous for its lighthouse built in 1893.

- Ninepin islands (果洲群島) are known for the cliffs and caves around the islands.

Do
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Please see the Lantau article for information on Hong Kong Disneyland, and other things to Do on Lantau.

- Windsurfing and sunbathing are the prime drawcards on the beaches of Cheung Chau.

- The Cheung Chau Bun Festival is a popular annual event. Ferries are very crowded on the day though, so expect long queues if you intend to go.

- Walk from Yung Shue Wan to Sok Kwu Wa on Lamma - This walk takes about an hour and is well sign posted. It passes a beach which offers swimming facilities within a shark free net and great views of the power station. The walk also provides great views of the island. After the walk, you can dine at the seafood restaurants adjacent to the ferry terminal. Although the walk is not difficult, it has a few steep sections and in summer with high temperature and humidity it can feel strenuous.

Buy
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There are not many shopping bargains on the islands. However, beach items tend to be more reasonably priced.

- Peanut Candy is available in So Kwu Wan, Lamma Island.

- Fish Sauce is sold in many locations, including Cheung Chau.

- Wine & Food shop on Peng Chau Island, is a nice shop selling Western deli goods at very good prices.

- Shrimp paste is a very famous sauce in Cheung Chau which is made from fresh prawn.

Eat
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Lamma and Cheung Chau are well known for a large number of seafood restaurants. The decor of the restaurants are generally basic but clean and should never be seen as an indication of the quality of the food which is usually high.

Lamma
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There is a strip of seafood restaurants in Sok Kwu Wan. Expect to pay around $100 - 150 per head for the set meals, which will include fried clams, lobster, crab, prawns as well as fried vegetables, rice and drinks. A steamed fish will cost around $100 depending on the weight.

- Bay, Mo Tat Wan (20 min walk from Sok Kwu Wan). Restaurant and bar, which specialises in Western style seafood.

- Peach Garden. Smaller family owned seafood restaurant.

- Rainbow Restaurant - The first, last and one in between are Rainbow restaurants with great food. A small lobster cost HK$140 and a small Salt and Pepper Squid cost HK$80. They also offer a free ferry service for customers which is a great way to see the harbour.

Other restaurants of note include:

- Han Lok Yuen, near Hung Shing Yeh beach. Recommended for their speciality, pigeon. Unfortunately they are closed at the moment.

- The Bookworm Cafe, Yung Shue Wan. Great ambiance and tasty vegetarian food, it also provides free internet access.

- Pizza Milano, Yung Shue Wan. Munch on a slice at this Italian eatery.

Peng Chau
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- Finger Hill. Portuguese food.

- Peng Chau 1 [10] 40 Wing On Street, Peng Chau. Tel: 2983 1183. Perfect for a relaxing day out on the most authentic of Hong Kong's outlying islands. Peng Chau is close to Discovery Bay and easily reached by fast ferry from Central Pier 6. Run by two English people, Peng Chau 1 serves great pizzas, pasta dishes and other international cuisine at reasonable prices. Good for vegetarians too. It is usually crowded with junk and day-trippers from Discovery Bay. Book to avoid disappointment, especially at weekends.

Drink
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Aside from a few pubs on Lamma, the nightlife in the islands is pretty quiet. Island drinking usually amounts to no more than either a few bottles of cheap Chinese beer, or endless cups of jasmine tea.

For the more determined drinker, on Lantau, there is the China Bear in Mui Wo, and in Discovery Bay there are several bars such as Mcsorley's Ale House and the Beer Bay which are all good for nursing a drink or two. In Tung Chung, near the airport, there is the Aviator bar and restaurant which is a good night out for some.

Sleep
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Accommodation on these islands is fairly limited compared to Kowloon and Hong Kong island and consists mainly of guest houses (a few of which call themselves hotels).

On Lantau, there is the Silvermine Beach Hotel [11]. This is a 2-3 star hotel, in the relaxing town of Mui Wo. There are also many small guest houses, with advertisements for them at the ferry pier on Mui Wo. On weekdays they are cheap but at weekends and on holidays the prices go up.

On Cheung Chau, there is the Warwick Hotel [12]. Similar to the Silvermine Beach in facilities.

Lamma island has several small hotels, guest houses and hostels.