SEKAI Explorer Guide Istanbul (2011)

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Table of Content:

• Districts

Sultanahmet-Old City

Galata

New City

Bosphorus

Golden Horn

Princes’ Islands

Asian Side

Western Suburbs

• Understand

History

Orientation

Climate

• Get in

By plane

Atatürk Airport

Sabiha Gökçen Airport

By train

By bus

By boat

By car

• Get around

Public transport

By bus

By metro

By tram

Information for disabled travelers

Buses

Trams

Metro

By boat

By train

By taxi

By shared taxi

• See

Tulips

• Do

Hamams

Nargile (HookaorWater Pipe)

Walking tours

Theodosian Walls Walk

The Classic Bosphorus Cruise

Football

• Learn

Ottoman Turkish

Work

• Buy

• Eat

Snacks

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

Telephone codes

SIM Cards

Internet

• Stay safe

Scams

Blue Mosque scam guides

Taksim barorclub scams

LiraorEuro Scams

Shoebrush

Taxi drivers

Overpricing

Stalking

Race, Ethnicity and Religion

Tourism Police

Stay healthy

• Cope

Consulates

• Get out

Possible hitchhiking spots

Districts

Sultanahmet-Old City
Essentially Constantinople of Roman, Byzantine, and much of the Ottoman period, this is where most of the famous historical sights of Istanbul are located.

Galata
Housing many of the nightlife venues of the city, this district which includes Beyoğlu, Istiklal Street, and Taksim Square has also its own share of sights and accommodation.

New City
Main business district of the city, also home to many modern shopping malls, and districts such as Elmadağ, Nişantaşı, and Etiler.

Bosphorus
European bank of Bosphorus that is dotted by numerous palaces, parks, water-front mansions, and bohemian neighborhoods.

Golden Horn
Banks of Golden Horn, the estuary that separates European Side into distinctive districts. Eyüp with an Ottoman ambience is located here.

Princes’ Islands
An excellent getaway from the city, made up of an archipelago of nine car-free islands—some of them small, some of them big—with splendid wooden mansions, verdant pine forests and nice views—both on the islands themselves, and also on the way there.

Asian Side
Eastern half of Istanbul, with lovely neighborhoods at the Marmara and Bosphorus coasts.

Western Suburbs
Western chunk of the European Side.

Understand

History

Expanding the ancient Greek colony of Byzantium by the order of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great, the imperial city of Constantinople was for nearly a thousand years the last remaining outpost of the Roman (later termed Eastern Roman or Byzantine) Empire. It was finally conquered by the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II on May 29th, 1453, an event often used to mark the end of the Middle Ages. It was the nerve center for military campaigns that were to enlarge the Ottoman Empire dramatically. By the mid 1500s, Istanbul, with a population of almost half a million, was a major cultural, political, and commercial center. Ottoman rule continued until it was defeated in WWI and Istanbul was occupied by the allies. When the Republic of Turkey was born in 1923 after the War of Independence, Kemal Atatürk moved its capital to the city of Ankara. However, Istanbul has continued to expand dramatically; today its population is approximately 14 million and increases at an estimated 400,000 immigrants per year. Industry has expanded even as tourism has grown. It continues to be a city that creates its own history at the intersection where both continents meet.

Orientation

Istanbul is divided in three by the north-south Bosphorus Strait (Istanbul Bogazi), the dividing line between Europe and Asia, the estuary of the Golden Horn (Haliç) bisecting the western part and the Sea of Marmara (Marmara Denizi) forming a boundary to the south. Most sights are concentrated in the old city on the peninsula of Sultanahmet, to the west of the Bosphorus between the Horn and the Sea. Across the Horn to the north are Galata, Beyoğlu and Taksim, the heart of modern Istanbul, while Kadıköy is the major district on the comparatively less-visited Anatolian side of the city. The Black Sea forms the northern boundary of Istanbul.

Climate

Climate

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Daily highs (°C)

7

8

10

15

20

25

27

27

24

19

13

10

Nightly lows (°C)

2

2

4

8

12

16

18

18

16

12

8

5

Precipitation (cm)

9.8

8.0

7.0

4.6

3.6

3.4

3.9

4.8

6.1

9.7

11.1

12.4

See the 4 day forecast for Istanbul at the Turkish State Meteorological Service

Istanbul has a temperate oceanic climate which is influenced by a continental climate, with hot and humid summers and cold, wet and occasionally snowy winters.

Istanbul has a high annual average rainfall of 844 mm (which is more than that of London, Dublin or Brussels, whose negative reputation Istanbul does not suffer), with late autumn and winter being the wettest, and late spring and summer being the driest. Although late spring and summer are relatively dry when compared to the other seasons, rainfall is significant during these seasons, and there is no dry season as a result.

If there is a negative reputation that Istanbul does suffer from, it is the high annual relative humidity, especially during winter and summer with the accompanying wind chill and concrete-island effect during each respective season.

Summer is generally hot with averages around 27ºC during the day and 18ºC at night. High relative humidity levels and the ‘concrete-island effect’ only make things worse. Expect temperatures of up to 35° C for the hottest days of the year. Summer is also the driest season, but it does infrequently rain. Showers tend to last for 15-30 minutes with the sun usually reappearing again on the same day. Flash floods are a common occurrence after heavy rainfalls (especially during summer), due to the city's hilly topography and inadequate sewage systems.

Winter is cold and wet, averaging 2ºC at night and 7ºC during the day. Although rarely below freezing during the day, high relative humidity levels and the wind chill makes it feel bitterly cold and very unpleasant.

Snowfall, which occurs almost annually, is common between the months of December and March, with an annual total snow cover of almost three weeks, but average winter snowfall varies considerably from year to year, and snow cover usually remains only for a few days after each snowfall, even under intense snow conditions.

Late spring (late May to early June) and early autumn (late September to early October) are very pleasant and therefore the best times to visit the city. During these periods it is neither cold nor hot, and still sunny, though the nights can be chilly and rain is common.

For visitors an umbrella is recommended during spring, autumn and winter, and during the summer to avoid the sun and occasionally the rain. However, it’s not such a big problem, since streets of Istanbul are suddenly filled by umbrella sellers as soon as it starts raining. Although the umbrellas they provide are a little shoddy, going rate is only TL 5 –about US$ 3- per umbrella (though you can find much better umbrellas for that price at shops if you look around a bit).

Light clothing is recommended during summer and a light jacket and/or light sweater if the summer evenings do become chilly, warm clothing is essential during winter and a mixture of the two during spring and autumn.

Also take note that due to its huge size, topography and maritime influences, Istanbul exhibits a multitude of distinct microclimates. Thus, different sections of Istanbul can experience different weather conditions at the same time. For example, at the same moment, it can be heavily raining in Sarıyer in the north, mildly raining in Levent (northern terminus of metro line), while Taksim, the southern terminus of metro line, is having a perfectly sunny day.

Get in

By plane

Atatürk Airport

Most planes arrive at Istanbul Atatürk Airport [2] (IATA: IST), 20 km west of the city centre. From the airport, there are various options for getting into Istanbul: you can take a taxi (about 30-35 TL to Taksim, and 25-30 TL to Sultanahmet), the express bus service run by the local airport service called "Havaş" [3] which departs half-hourly between 4AM-midnight and costs 10 TL to Taksim (and also to Etiler, and Kozyatağı), the public bus (line #96T) run by İETT costing 2.50 TL, which also stops at Aksaray close to Sultanahmet. Travel times are 20–40 minutes, but depend a lot on traffic, and Istanbul is heavily congested!

Then, there is the metro (signposted "light rail" in the airport, when you get outside the baggage claim its about a 10 minute walk in the airport to the metro line. Just follow the signs), which will take you directly to the Otogar (bus station) or to numerous stops within Istanbul (Aksaray in the city centre is the last stop, transfer stations for tram heading for deeper into old city is available at Zeytinburnu and Aksaray). It costs 1.50 TL (+an extra 1.50 TL when boarding the tram) and getting to Aksaray takes around 45 minutes. It is possible to be at your bus departing from Otogar within less than one hour after landing by taking the metro.

When entering the metro station, you need to buy a jeton (token) for 1.50 lira. Just hand the cashier 1.50 lira and he'll give you a token, or use the automatic dispenser (Jetonmatik), which accepts banknotes (5 TL, 10 TL) as well as coins. They don't accept credit card or foreign currency here. This will get you on the red metro line (towards Aksaray). From this line, if you are going to Sultanahmet, you can transfer at Zeytinburnu and buy another jeton (1.50 lira). Note that the jeton token here is different than the first one. From Zeytinburnu, take the blue tram line T1, towards Kabataş which passes by: Sultanahmet, Eminönu and Tophane. The trip from the airport to Sultanahmet takes about 45 min.

Other Notes: Note that people are working on commission at the airport trying to make you use special shuttle buses for very high fees (30+ TL), so for people who wish to travel more economically the Metro/tram-combination is easy and fairly quick, and offers very good value. Travel by metro/tram cost 1 token per trip which is equal to 1.5 TL. No matter how long you travel, it cost 1 token per trip.

Visa: Depending on nationality, foreigners arriving in Istanbul may need to purchase tourist visas (USA and some EU citizens, depending on exact nationality, do). This must be done upon arrival before queuing for passport control. The windows for purchasing the visa are located immediately to the left of the main passport control booths. You may pay using foreign currency or Turkish Lira (TL) (only cash is accepted, though, no credit cards). The fee varies depending on the visitor’s nationality. The fee is $20 (or €15 or 10 GBP) for visitors traveling with U.S. and Australian passports. As of Sep 2008, Canadians pay US$60 (or €45). As of Aug 2009, EU pays €15 (note that GB citizens may pay in Pounds), or the fee is 35 TL.

Note that food and drinks at the airport may cost up to five times more than in the city proper, like in other international airports. If you are traveling on budget and plan to spend some time at the airport, it may be wise to bring your own meals from town instead of buying them there. If you come from the Metro, there is a supermarket in the tunnel leading to the elevators / stairs to the airport proper where you can do some last-minute shopping.

Sabiha Gökçen Airport

Istanbul also has a second airport, Sabiha Gökçen International Airport [4] (IATA: SAW), located in the Anatolian side of the city. Charter flights as well as European low cost carriers operate from here most of the time. A Havaş bus connects this airport with Taksim in the city center for 13 TL (Dec 2010) and takes about an hour (closer to 2 in heavy traffic). There is also a Havaş service to Kozyatağı, a transportation hub of Asian Side, which costs 10 TL. If you arrive in the middle of the night, you can move to the departure hall after passing customs and rest on very comfortable seats — you will even find coin-operated Japanese massage chairs. Then, at about 4AM (but better ask to be sure) the first Havaş bus will take you to town. The Havaş bus schedule is sometimes linked to the arrival/departure times of planes. A cheaper option is to take public bus line #E10 which brings you to Kadıköy, the main centre of the city in Asian Side, in 70 min (3 TL) and which operates 24 hours a day (once every hour between midnight and 6AM, more frequent in the rest of the day). From Kadıköy, you can take a ferry to Eminönü or Karaköy. Various private operators offer internet bookable shared minibuses to central locations - a good choice when arriving late. A typical price being EUR 90 for 4 people to a hotel in Laleli. A taxi to Sabiha Gökçen airport from Taksim takes ~35 minutes at 3:30am with no traffic. The meter will show ~65 lira, plus there is ~6 lira in tolls. Note the security screening is before the check-in counters, so add some extra time to make the cutoff times (45 minutes for international, 30 for domestic).

When arriving at Sabiha Gökçen airport, there are people offering shuttle services to the European side of the city, most costing €10, which is much cheaper than booking a taxi with your hotel/hostel (about €50-60). It is the best option after the Havas airport buses. For the return journey, officers are quite zealous with luggage checks and they systematically remove the cap from bottled water once at the gate. It is recommended not to buy water before the flight although you can take the open bottle on board. Another surprising feature of Sabiha Gökçen airport is the luggage check at the main entrance, but fortunately you are allowed to take drinks in the airport at this point.

By train

Suburban/commuter trains (banliyö treni) using somewhat dilapidated stock and running on national rail network, connect suburbs along the European and Asian coast of the Sea of Marmara to main stations at Sirkeci and Haydarpaşa, respectively. These trains are one of the fastest connections between the old city and western suburbs, especially Bakırköy, although they, especially the line on European Side, are best avoided late at night.

By bus

IETT, [6].

There are two types of public buses in Istanbul; those run by the private sector and those run by the city-owned İETT. You can differentiate these two types by their colors. Privately run buses are blue-green with yellow non-electronic destination signs while İETT-run buses come in many flavors including old red-blue ones, newer green ones and red double-deckers. The Akbil Transit Pass is valid universally while tickets that can be obtained in kiosks near bus stops for 1.40 TL are valid only on İETT buses and cash payment only on private buses, although if you get on an İETT bus the driver will normally accept cash (normally 1.50 TL but this is dependent entirely upon what the driver wishes to charge) and hand you his Akbil for you to use.

Recently installed Metrobüs, long hybrid buses running on their special lanes separated from all other traffic and thus saving lots of time in Istanbul's usually congested roads, connect western suburb of Avcılar with Kadıköy in Asian Side via Bakırköy, Cevizlibağ which is just out of old city walls near Topkapı Gate, and Mecidiyeköy.

Most bus lines operate between 6AM and around midnight, usually with a reduced volume of services after 10PM. Some lines between major centres operate 24 hr, though, as is the Metrobüs, with about an hour intervals. After midnight, buses cost two tickets pp rather than the usual one.

24 hr Bus Lines:

- 73 Taksim Square-Ataturk International Airport

- 110 Taksim Square-Kadikoy

- 112 Taksim Square-Bostanci

- 25T Taksim Square-Sariyer

- 40 Taksim Square-Sariyer

- 89C Taksim Square-Basaksehir

- E10 Kadikoy-Sabiha Gokcen International Airport

- 15F Kadikoy-Uskudar

- 130 Kadikoy-Tuzla

- 34A Sogutlucesme(Kadikoy)-Edirnekapi (Metrobus)

- 34 Avcilar-Zincirlikuyu (Metrobus)

As a tourist, you are most likely to use the tram and the metro in the Sultanahmet and Taksim area since there are no bus lines operating in the area anymore.

By boat

Unique Istanbul liners (large conventional ferry boats), sea-buses (high speed catamarans), or mid-sized private ferries travel between the European and Asian sides of the city. The crossing takes about 20 minutes and costs 1.50 TL, and gives great views of the Bosphorus. Be aware that sometimes the ferry when arriving at a dock can bounce off the pier accidentally, even on calm days. This can cause people to fall over if they are standing up, so it is advisable to remain seated until the ferry has come to an absolute stop.

In Istanbul, liners from any given quay generally take only a certain route, and these quays are signposted ‘X Iskelesi’ (“X Landing stage/pier”). For instance, Eminönü alone has more than 5 landing stages (including the ones used by other ferries apart from liners), so if you should head for, say, Üsküdar, you should take the ferry which departs from ‘Üsküdar Iskelesi’. Replace ‘Üsküdar’ with the destination of your choice.

Istanbul liners [8] travel on the following routes:

- Karaköy - Haydarpaşa - Kadıköy

- Kadıköy - Eminönü

- Üsküdar - Eminönü

- Üsküdar - Karaköy - Eminönü - Eyüp (The Golden Horn Route)

- Kadıköy - Besiktaş

- Kabatas - Uskudar - Harem

- Istinye - Emirgan - Kanlıca - Anadolu Hisarı - Kandilli - Bebek - Arnavutköy - Çengelköy (The Whole Bosphorus Route)

- Anadolu Kavağı - Rumeli Kavağı - Sariyer

- Eminönü - Kavaklar (Special Bosphorus Tour-Recommended For Tourists)

- Sirkeci - Adalar - Yalova - Cınarcık (The Princes' Islands Route)

Furthermore, the sea-buses (deniz otobüsü) follow the same (or more) routes, usually much faster than liners. Returning to Yenikapi from Kadikoy by sea-bus is a fast and convenient way to cross the Bosphorus; at Yenikapi there is a railway station with frequent trains to Sirkeci/Eminönü and the Yenikapi fish restaurant area is close by (or one stop on the train).

Four main private ferry routes for travelling between Asia and Europe sides are:

- Besiktaş - Üsküdar

- Kabataş - Üsküdar (close to tram and funicular system in Kabataş)

- Eminönü - Üsküdar (close to tram in Eminönü)

- Eminönü - Kadıköy (close to tram in Eminönü)

Very useful are the fast ferryboats (travelling at 55 kilometers) running from several points, such as the Yenikapi - Yalova one, that allows you (with a connecting bus in Yalova) to be in Bursa centre in less than three hours. Prices are marginally higher and the gain in time is considerable, though the view is not as nice.

All of the ferries, including private ones, can be paid for using the AKBIL system or the new Smart RFID Card that is in the process of introduction.

A new metro line extension crossing the Bosphorus in a tunnel is under construction. This will change the ferry provision and is perhaps a good reason to visit Istanbul before it is completed.

By car

Traffic in Istanbul can be manic; expect a stressful drive because you will be cut off and honked at constantly. The city currently holds more than 1,500,000 automobiles and there is a strong demand for building of new or alternate highways.

If you've arrived in Istanbul by car, and you're not familiar with the streets, it's better to park your car in a safe place and take public transportation to get around.

The city, lying on two different continents and separated by the Bosphorus, is connected by two bridges. The bridge on the south, closer to the Marmara Sea, is called the "Bosphorus Bridge". The bridge closer to the Black Sea is named "Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge" and is longer than the first one. Both are toll bridges, and you must pay a fee to cross.

Since 2006, the Bosphorus Bridge toll stations do not accept cash, and payment must be made using electronic cards, either manually (KGS) or automatically via a transponder mounted on the front of the car (OGS). The Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge does not accept cash either, only KGS or OGS.

On weekdays, drivers should be aware of potentially hour-long traffic jams on the highways leading to both bridges, particularly heading west in the mornings and east in the evenings, since most people live on the Anatolian side but work on the European side.

There is a great shortage of parking in Istanbul, and existing lots are quite expensive. You will see many cars parked on the sides of the road, in front of garage doors even.

Drivers unfamiliar with the city should also be aware that street signs are rare. It is a common thing to pull over and ask for directions, something the natives and taxi drivers do quite often.

Get around

Public transport

Istanbul's public transit system can be difficult to figure out; maps are rare and you often have to transfer, and pay another fare, to get where you are going. However, if you put some effort into it, you can avoid taxis and not walk too much.

Each time you use a tram, metro, bus, or boat on the public transport system, you will need to use a token. The small metal tokens cost 1.75 TL (May 2011) and can be bought at various ticket kiosks at bus, railway and metro stations. Ticket fares across buses, trams and metros are at a flat rate (i.e. not dependent on how far you go). Only cash in Turkish lira is accepted at ticket kiosks of public transport, no credit cards or foreign currency.

Buying an AKBİL (AKıllı BİLet - Turkish acronym for "Smart Ticket") is a good idea if you are in Istanbul for more than a day or two, and intend to use public transport. AKBİL is a small electronic device serving as a ticket which may be used on buses, trams, suburban trains, metro, local ferries, etc. You buzz the AKBİL when you get on the bus or enter the tram/metro platform. The great part for travelers is that you can buy only one and buzz it as many times as there are passengers. You can buy or refill them at designated booths located at any major bus, tram, to metro station, as well as some other places such as newspaper stands close to bus stops. An AKBİL provides slightly discounted rates compared to regular single tickets, as well as discounts in transfers (when used multiple times within a limited period, roughly an hour and a half since the last time you used it). A deposit for the device itself is payable when you buy it (6 TL), which is refundable if you choose to return it later.

Buses and streetcars tend to be very crowded during rush hours, especially on Mondays and Fridays. That can also create opportunities for pickpockets.

By bus

IETT, [6].

There are two types of public buses in Istanbul; those run by the private sector and those run by the city-owned İETT. You can differentiate these two types by their colors. Privately run buses are blue-green with yellow non-electronic destination signs while İETT-run buses come in many flavors including old red-blue ones, newer green ones and red double-deckers. The Akbil Transit Pass is valid universally while tickets that can be obtained in kiosks near bus stops for 1.40 TL are valid only on İETT buses and cash payment only on private buses, although if you get on an İETT bus the driver will normally accept cash (normally 1.50 TL but this is dependent entirely upon what the driver wishes to charge) and hand you his Akbil for you to use.

Recently installed Metrobüs, long hybrid buses running on their special lanes separated from all other traffic and thus saving lots of time in Istanbul's usually congested roads, connect western suburb of Avcılar with Kadıköy in Asian Side via Bakırköy, Cevizlibağ which is just out of old city walls near Topkapı Gate, and Mecidiyeköy.

Most bus lines operate between 6AM and around midnight, usually with a reduced volume of services after 10PM. Some lines between major centres operate 24 hr, though, as is the Metrobüs, with about an hour intervals. After midnight, buses cost two tickets pp rather than the usual one.

24 hr Bus Lines:

- 73 Taksim Square-Ataturk International Airport

- 110 Taksim Square-Kadikoy

- 112 Taksim Square-Bostanci

- 25T Taksim Square-Sariyer

- 40 Taksim Square-Sariyer

- 89C Taksim Square-Basaksehir

- E10 Kadikoy-Sabiha Gokcen International Airport

- 15F Kadikoy-Uskudar

- 130 Kadikoy-Tuzla

- 34A Sogutlucesme(Kadikoy)-Edirnekapi (Metrobus)

- 34 Avcilar-Zincirlikuyu (Metrobus)

As a tourist, you are most likely to use the tram and the metro in the Sultanahmet and Taksim area since there are no bus lines operating in the area anymore.

By metro

Istanbul's first underground system dates back to 19th century, when the funicular subway "Tünel" was constructed to operate from Karaköy to Istiklal Street in 1875. The distance travelled was 573 metres. Recommended option to go up-hill from Galata Bridge (Beyoglu side) to the famous Istiklal Caddesi (main street).

In 1990's, a modern tram line was constructed in the European side of the city, and now it's being extended to the inner parts of the city, as well as to the Anatolian side with a sea-tunnel named "Marmaray" crossing below the Bosphorus.

Istanbul's metro consists of two lines, the northern line is currently just a short stub connecting Şişhane to Maslak via Taksim Square, and Mecidiyeköy and Levent in business district. There is also a funicular system connecting Taksim to Kabataş where you can get on ferries and cross to the Anatolian side, and also transfer to trams bound for old city. The separate southern line is most useful for visitors, connecting Aksaray (with its connections to the tram line onwards to old city) to Atatürk Airport, via the main coach station (Otogar). A connecting line between southern and northern lines, crossing Golden Horn on a bridge, is under construction, but don't hold your breath.

Nowadays, most metro stations do not have a staffed ticket booth, so you will have to obtain your token from automatic token dispensers. Insert coins (except 1 or 5 kuruş) up to 1.50 TL and then press the button marked onay (Turkish for "approval", no English translations are given on the machines).

A token costs 1.50 TL (around €0.75) on any urban rail in Istanbul.

By tram

- Istanbul Metro & Tram, [7].

A tram (line # T1) connects Zeytinburnu (connection to the metro line to the airport) to Kabataş (connection to the underground funicular to Taksim). The line is 14km long, has 24 stations and serves many popular tourist sites (e.g. in Sultanahmet) and ferries (e.g. Eminönü). An entire trip takes 42 minutes.

There are two tram lines running on the same tracks, the line numbered as 38 in front of tram cars runs along the entire T2 line between Kabataş and Zeytinburnu, while significantly shorter line #47 runs between Eminönü and Cevizlibağ stations (the latter of which is abbreviated as C.bağ-A.Ö.Y. on the signage of tram cars). However, both lines call at stations that are of most interest to travellers through the Old City. During morning and evening rush hours every alternate tram runs as #47, while during the rest of the day, most run as #38.

Although you may use the same tokens (1.50 TL) or AKBİL on the metro and tram, you must pay another fare each time you change lines.

The tram was put in service in 1992 on standard gauge track with modern cars, connecting Sirkeci with Topkapi. The line was extended on one end from Topkapi to Zeytinburnu in March 1994 and, on the other end from Sirkeci to Eminönü in April 1996. On January 30, 2005 it was extended from Sirkeci to Kabataş crossing Golden Horn after 44 years again. 55 vehicles built by ABB run on the line. The daily transport capacity is 155,000 passengers.

Tramway stations are: Zeytinburnu, Mithatpaşa, Akşemsettin, Seyitnizam, Merkezefendi, Cevizlibağ, Topkapı, Pazartekke, Çapa, Fındıkzade, Haseki, Yusufpaşa, Aksaray, Laleli (Üniversite), Beyazıt (Kapalıçarşı), Çemberlitaş, Sultanahmet, Gülhane, Sirkeci, Eminönü (ferryboats), Karaköy, Tophane, Fındıklı, Kabataş.

Between Taksim and Kabatas, there is a modern underground funicular to connect this tram line to the Taksim metro. The tram is also connected to the southern metro line (for the Otogar and Ataturk Airport) at Aksaray station, though the metro and tram lines are a short walk from each other.

During morning and evening rush hours (roughly between 7AM-9AM and 5PM-7:30PM respectively), tram cars run jam-packed so if you intend to take it for a couple of stations down the way, don't even bother—walking instead is not only less tiresome than standing in what is essentially more crowded than a sardine can, it's also quicker as you will most likely be able to get in the second or even third tram calling at the station due to the crowd.

There are also two other tram lines linking residential and industrial suburbs in the northwest with the city centre: T2, which heads for Bağcılar, and T4 (which is more like metro-tram systems of northwestern Europe, as it lies underground for part of its route), which heads for Sultançiftliği, connecting to the Zeytinburnu and Topkapı stations of the T1 line respectively. However, these lines are of very little, if any, use to the average traveller.

Information for disabled travelers

Buses

The process of replacing old buses with newer ones accessible for people using a wheelchair is ongoing. Many buses on central lines have a low floor and a built-in ramp (consult the driver to lean the bus down nearer to the ground, to open the ramp, and to assist into the bus, though any of these might unfortunately be impossible during peak hours in interval stops. Think of a sardine-packed bus unloading all of its passengers to lean down).

Unfortunately, no stops are announced on a display or by voice in the buses.

Trams

Trams are accessible for people using a wheelchair from the station platforms if you can manage to get into the station in the first place. Some of the stations are located in the middle of very wide avenues and the only access to them is via underground passages (tens of stairs) or overpasses (more stairs!). Otherwise, platforms in tram stations are low and equipped with gentle ramps right from the street (or sidewalk) level.

All stations are announced both on a display and by voice in the trams.

Metro

All stations and trains in the northern metro line are accessible for people using a wheelchair. Look around the station entrances for handicapped lifts/elevators. Only some of the stations in the southern metro line are equipped with such elevators (among the stations which have elevators are Aksaray-the main station of the city centre, Otogar-the main bus station, and Havalimanı (Airport) station), but whether there is an elevator or not, if you manage to get into the station (there is a good chance that you can do with a little assistance because the stations in the southern line aren’t located as deep as the stations of the northern line are; only about one floor’s height under the ground), all trains are accessible from the station platforms, though a little assistance more will be helpful for passing over the narrow gap between the train and the platform. You can ask the guys in grey/black uniforms (security guards, they can be seen in the entrances of the station platforms if not elsewhere) for assistance, it’s their duty.

All stations are announced by voice in the metro trains. In northern line it is also announced on a display, but not in the southern line. Instead, you should look at the signs in the stations, which are big and common enough.

By boat

Unique Istanbul liners (large conventional ferry boats), sea-buses (high speed catamarans), or mid-sized private ferries travel between the European and Asian sides of the city. The crossing takes about 20 minutes and costs 1.50 TL, and gives great views of the Bosphorus. Be aware that sometimes the ferry when arriving at a dock can bounce off the pier accidentally, even on calm days. This can cause people to fall over if they are standing up, so it is advisable to remain seated until the ferry has come to an absolute stop.

In Istanbul, liners from any given quay generally take only a certain route, and these quays are signposted ‘X Iskelesi’ (“X Landing stage/pier”). For instance, Eminönü alone has more than 5 landing stages (including the ones used by other ferries apart from liners), so if you should head for, say, Üsküdar, you should take the ferry which departs from ‘Üsküdar Iskelesi’. Replace ‘Üsküdar’ with the destination of your choice.

Istanbul liners [8] travel on the following routes:

- Karaköy - Haydarpaşa - Kadıköy

- Kadıköy - Eminönü

- Üsküdar - Eminönü

- Üsküdar - Karaköy - Eminönü - Eyüp (The Golden Horn Route)

- Kadıköy - Besiktaş

- Kabatas - Uskudar - Harem

- Istinye - Emirgan - Kanlıca - Anadolu Hisarı - Kandilli - Bebek - Arnavutköy - Çengelköy (The Whole Bosphorus Route)

- Anadolu Kavağı - Rumeli Kavağı - Sariyer

- Eminönü - Kavaklar (Special Bosphorus Tour-Recommended For Tourists)

- Sirkeci - Adalar - Yalova - Cınarcık (The Princes' Islands Route)

Furthermore, the sea-buses (deniz otobüsü) follow the same (or more) routes, usually much faster than liners. Returning to Yenikapi from Kadikoy by sea-bus is a fast and convenient way to cross the Bosphorus; at Yenikapi there is a railway station with frequent trains to Sirkeci/Eminönü and the Yenikapi fish restaurant area is close by (or one stop on the train).

Four main private ferry routes for travelling between Asia and Europe sides are:

- Besiktaş - Üsküdar

- Kabataş - Üsküdar (close to tram and funicular system in Kabataş)

- Eminönü - Üsküdar (close to tram in Eminönü)

- Eminönü - Kadıköy (close to tram in Eminönü)

Very useful are the fast ferryboats (travelling at 55 kilometers) running from several points, such as the Yenikapi - Yalova one, that allows you (with a connecting bus in Yalova) to be in Bursa centre in less than three hours. Prices are marginally higher and the gain in time is considerable, though the view is not as nice.

All of the ferries, including private ones, can be paid for using the AKBIL system or the new Smart RFID Card that is in the process of introduction.

A new metro line extension crossing the Bosphorus in a tunnel is under construction. This will change the ferry provision and is perhaps a good reason to visit Istanbul before it is completed.

By train

Suburban/commuter trains (banliyö treni) using somewhat dilapidated stock and running on national rail network, connect suburbs along the European and Asian coast of the Sea of Marmara to main stations at Sirkeci and Haydarpaşa, respectively. These trains are one of the fastest connections between the old city and western suburbs, especially Bakırköy, although they, especially the line on European Side, are best avoided late at night.

By taxi

Taxis are an easy and cheap way to get around. As of December 2010, start off rate is 2.50 TL (€1.2) and then 1.6 TL (€0.73) for each km afterwards. A one-way travel from Taksim to Sultanahmet costs approximately 10-15 TL. Tipping is generally unnecessary. Occasionally, drivers will refuse to start the meter and try to negotiate a fixed prize (but most drivers will start taximeters at all times). You should avoid these cabs and simply take another one as you will almost certainly end paying too much. To be sure, before getting in, just ask "how much to go to ...?" (most of the drivers understand basic English) since the price they tell then is quite accurate. Tell them then to put the taximeter on. Drivers do normally work with the taximeter, so they will not be surprised at all when you ask them to put it on. The price at the end will be quite close to the one they tell you at the beginning. There is now, as of October 2009, just one fare unit, it means, there is no extra fare at night.

Taxis that wait near a bus station are usually a tourist trap. They start the meter but charge you 20 TL at least. Emphasize to the driver that you will pay for the meter price before getting in. Do not buy their quick-sell tricks. Always try to stop a taxi that is passing by on the road or find a legitimate taxi stop.

Insist on going to the destination that you want because some drivers are payed by commission for each time they have someone go to a certain site.

Beware riding a taxi other than the "yellow-colored" ones since the other-colored taxis are registered under different cities and have a different rating system.

Be careful on what notes you hand them for payment; some drivers have tried to pretend that the 50 lira note that was handed was just a 5 lira note. Occasionally taxi drivers may actually also rip notes you give them, and tell you it is no good, in order to make you hand them a 50 lira note. So, make sure the notes are not ripped, and is actually the right one before you hand them over. Also, if you are not familiar with the city the taxi driver may drive a detour in order to charge you more.

Traffic can be very bad, it can take an hour for a few km through the old city. You might be better off taking the metro out of the old city and then a taxi from there.

Some important routes with distances and estimated taxi prices are :

- Ataturk Airport (IST) - Taxim Square ~ 21 km. [9]

- Ataturk Airport (IST) - Sultanahmet Square (Old City) ~ 18 km. [10]

- Taxim Square - Sultanahmet (Old City) ~ 5,5 km. [11]

- Sabiha Gokcen Airport (SAW) - Kadikoy (Chalcadonia) Ferry Terminal ~ 36 km. [12]

- Esenler (Bus Terminal) - Topkapi Palace (Sultanahmet) ~ 10,5 km. [13]

- Esenler (Bus Terminal) - Ataturk Airport (IST) ~ 15 km. [14]

By shared taxi

Dolmuş (Turkish: "full") is a shared taxi, travelling on a fixed route, which costs more than a city autobus but less than a normal taxi. They can carry up to 8 passengers. They are easy to recognize, because they also have the yellow painting as taxis and carry a Dolmus sign on its top. They will only start driving when all eight places are filled, which is also where the name derives from.

The main and most important routes for Dolmuses are :

- Taksim - Eminönü (Taksim stop, near the Ataturk Cultural Center, in Taksim square)

- Taksim - Kadıköy

- Taksim - Bostanci

- Taksim - Aksaray (Taksim stop, Tarlabasi Avenue, close to Taksim square)

- Kadıköy - Bostanci (Bostanci stop, in front of the Bostanci ferry port)

- Taksim - Tesvikiye (Taksim stop, in front of Patisserie Gezi, in Taksim square)

- Beşiktaş - Nisantasi (Beşiktaş stop, in front of the Beşiktaş - Üsküdar ferry port)

- Kadıköy - Üsküdar (Üsküdar stop, Near the Üsküdar - Beşiktaş and Üsküdar - Kabataş ferry port)

If you want the driver to make a stop, you can say İnecek var.(EE-neh-djek war!) (Someone's getting out.) or Müsait bir yerde.(mU-sa-EEt bir yer-deh.) (At a convenient spot.).

See

With its long history at the center of empires, Istanbul offers a wealth of historic and religious places to take in. The bulk of these ancient monuments, dating back to Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman periods, including the Hagia Sophia, Topkapı Palace, Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque), and Basilica Cistern are located around Sultanahmet Square, while some others are dispersed throughout the peninsula of old city, such as Church of St Savior in Chora (Kariye Müzesi), entire inside of which is covered by mindblowing frescoes and mosaics. An impressive section of mostly intact Theodosian walls, which mark the full length of western boundary of the peninsula, is right next to this particular church.

North of the peninsula of old city, across the Golden Horn, is Galata, crowned by the Galata Tower. Istanbul Modern, with its exhibitions of contemporary Turkish art, is on the nearby waterfront of Karaköy. Another sight of religious significance close by is the Galata Whirling Dervish Hall of Sufi Mevlevi order, just north of the Tower. Further north is the Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul's prominent pedestrian street running from near Galata Tower to Taksim Square, the central square of whole city.

Heading west rather than north from the old city brings you deeper into the banks of the Golden Horn estuary. A neighbourhood perhaps well worth a visit here is Eyüp, to visit city’s holiest Islamic shrine and just to see what daily life in Ottoman Istanbul was like. On the opposite shores of the Horn, in Sütlüce is the Miniaturk, the first miniature park in the city, with models from around the former Ottoman Empire.

North of Taksim Square is New Istanbul, main business district of the city. If venturing out to this direction, don't forget to check out Military Museum, where Ottoman military music concerts (Mehter) are held every afternoon. Most of the skyscrapers of the city are located in the north of this district, around Levent and Maslak, with a totally different skyline from that of the old city. However southern reaches of the very same district has some fine neo-classical and Art Nouveau buildings from the turn of the 20th century, around the neighbourhoods of Osmanbey, Kurtuluş, and Nişantaşı. Just east from here, with a little drop in elevation as you approach the shore, is the banks of Bosphorus, that is lined by pleasant neighbourhoods full of waterfront mansions (yalı) and a number of waterside palaces where where you can admire what money could buy in times gone by.

Across the Bosphorus to east is Asian Side, centred around the historical districts of Kadıköy and Üsküdar, and perhaps best symbolized by Maiden’s Tower, located at about the halfway between these districts, on an islet just off the shore. Bosphorus and Marmara coasts of this half of the city is characterized by quite picturesque neighbourhoods, overlooked by Çamlıca Hill, one of the highest hills of the city which has a view of much of the rest of the city as well, with a cafe and a pleasant park on its summit.

Southeast of the city, off the southern coast of Asian Side are the Princes’ Islands, an archipelago of nine car-free islands, characterized by stunning wooden mansions and pine groves.

Tulips

Long ignored for their bad connotation with the Tulip era of 1700s, a period of ostentation and costly parties conducted by state elite amidst large gardens full of tulips (and also when the first bulbs were introduced to the Netherlands from Istanbul, by the way), which was later accused of economic destruction and the eventual dissolution of Ottoman Empire, tulips have regained much of their former popularity in the last decade and now serve as some sort of symbol of both Istanbul and the whole Turkey. They bloom from late March to early May (best bet is early to mid April) and while they can be seen on many avenues of the city wherever there is enough space for planting at the sides and the central strip of the road, if you are after admiring and/or photographing large patches of tulips with relatively exotic varieties, head to Sultanahmet Park and Gülhane Park in Sultanahmet; Emirgan Park near the northern Bosphorus neighbourhood of Emirgan; or Çamlıca Hill in Asian Side.

Do

Hamams

A visit to a hamam (Turkish bath) is an essential part of any trip to Istanbul and is something you'll be sure to repeat before leaving. There are at least one historical hamam in each neighborhood of Istanbul. Take care in selecting a hamam, as they can vary greatly in cleanliness. Most places will offer a scrubbing and/or a massage. Just being in the Hamam (as a sauna), is enough for seeing and experiencing the place, but the scrubbing is a great experience. The massage is not necessarily better than those found in western countries.

Sultanahmet has many historical hamams. Some are very extravagant and cater mainly to tourists.

Nargile (HookaorWater Pipe)

Once upon a time, the nargile, or Turkish water pipe, was the centre of Istanbul’s social and political life. Today some of the locals still consider it one of life’s great pleasures and is something interesting to try. Most of the places where you can smoke a nargile are in Yeniçeriler Caddesi, near the Kapalı Çarşı (Grand Bazaar). Çorlulu Ali Paşa and Koca Sinan Paşa Türbesi are both in secluded internal courts, just around the corner from some tomb yards, while Rumeli Kahvesi is actually inside the cemetery of an old medrese, though it’s not as spooky as you might think. In the south of Sultanahmet, near the sea, is Yeni Marmara (Çayıroğlu Sokak), where you can also sit in the terrace and enjoy the view. In Beyoğlu, at the Ortakahve (Büyükparmakkapı), there’s even the choice of a wide range of flavors. Another area with few big good looking places is the Rıhtım Caddesi, between Galata bridge and Istanbul Modern Museum.

Walking tours

Museums and such: Haghia Sophia, then on to the Topkapı museum (these two should take at least three to five hours), preferably along the road in the back of the Haghia Sophia, where there are some nicely restored houses. Then on to the Blue Mosque and the square with the obelisks on it (At Meydani). Along its side is the very good Museum of Islam Art. Descend slightly and find the small Haghia Sophia with its nice garden (it was under restoration, but you probably can get in). Then uphill to the Sokollu Mehmet mosque complex, top notch tiles inside.

Take a tram or walk to Eminönü (where the boats leave for trips to Asia or up the Bosphorus). Visit the New Mosque at the back, then the Egyptian Bazaar next to it, and going further in that direction, locate the Rüstem Pasha mosque with its excellent tiles. It's on a raised platform near an old clothes market, you may have to ask directions. Then take a cab or find a bus to Eyüp mosque complex, a mile or three up the Golden Horn. Visit this Eyüp complex at your leisure (the mosque is not particular, the court is, and the milling of believers, with many boys-to-be-circumcised amongst it; a Friday might be a good day to do this). Then, if you have the stamina, it might be nice to walk back too; maybe all the way (five miles or so), but taking a route along part of the city wall to first the famous Kariye Church with its mosaics, then on to Selimiye Mosque with its great view on the Golden Horn (and a fine mosque by itself), then the Fatih Mosque (passing through some very religious and lively neighborhoods), then on to the well-restored Sehzade mosque, and next to Süleymaniye (don't forget to enjoy the view from the Golden Horn side). If you have some energy left, you might go on to the University complex, and by then you are very close to the Beyazit mosque. A book market (it’s small) is behind this good, unexceptional (nice courtyard though) mosque.

Once again go to Eminönü, but this time take the boat (those large ferries) to Üsküdar. You will arrive before a fine mosque in front, another one four hundred meters off to the right, slightly inland behind a traffic roundabout, and a third, very small, at the sea front. See the market stretching inland, walk about and don't forget to walk along the shore, maybe eating a fish meal in one of the bobbing boats along it. This is a good visit for late afternoon, early evening, fleeing the city. You will be joined by thousands of people going home from "town" but the way back will be on a near-empty ferry. The frequency of ferries will go down in the evening, so make sure there is a connection back.

Go to the railroad station and find a Sirkeci-Halkali suburban train, and get out at (from memory, Yedikule station). You will be quite close to Yedikule, a nice fortress, and will have fine views of the city walls. The trains leave every 15 minutes or so, the ride is peculiar (the material is bad, but if you are in luck every second stop another salesman will enter and try selling his wares, it’s fun). The ride is takes anywhere from twenty minutes to half an hour. This is not a "must", but it can be great fun.

You will have missed the covered bazaar in all this. That is because you will get there anyhow. If you go to Beyazit and the book market you are almost at two of its many entrances. Try and find the Nuruosmaniye Mosque and its complex at the other side, it’s worth it. And after having explored the covered part, take a relaxing walk downhill, into the general direction of Eminönü, where it is "uncovered bazaar" all the way. Cross the Galata bridge to see some things on the Northern side (for instance take the "tünel" teleferik ride up much of the hill (entrance close to the opposite side of Galata bridge, ask around)), then continue to Taksim. Shops are of the international variety.

Theodosian Walls Walk

From 408AD the original walls of Constantine were replaced in the reign of Theodosius. These walls then became the critical point of defence of the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire and their Ottoman successors. They are still almost completely intact, marking the western border of the peninsula of Old City, with some sections suffering from somewhat unsightly restoration done in early 1990s. The section around the Topkapı Gate (not to be confused with Topkapı Palace which is located in an altogether different place) can be easily accessed from Pazartekke tram station, which lies about 300 metres east of the walls. Some remoter sections may not be very safe and may require some caution.

A 7 km walk along and on these remaining portions of the city wall offers a window into antiquity and puts emphasis on Turkey’s terrible historic monument legacy. Download and print a scholarly historical and technical description of the walls before you visit Istanbul; this will certainly add to the pleasure. From Eminönü, take the Golden Horn ferry to Ayvansaray. This ferry terminal is separate from the Bosphorus terminals adjacent and east of the Galata Bridge. Walk west through the Galata bridge underpass, then through the bus station to a pedestrian laneway which leads to the small terminal building. The fare is TL 1.50. Leave the ferry at Ayvansaray and cross the park to the wall on the other side of the main road. You have a choice of walking up the outer wall or the inner wall but access to the top of the battlements is usually on the inside naturally enough, so go up the small street across the road which then cuts back behind the wall and the towers. Here you can climb up onto this section of unrestored wall on crumbling brick and stone and continue on some hundreds of yards climbing as necessary. This path comes to an obvious end and one can short cut back to the street. Sometimes there are dwellings and commercial enterprises hard up against the wall, sometimes a bus depot, a rubbish dump or often just the road. These walls replaced the earlier walls of Constantine in 408AD after which they went through constant upgrade and repairs to earthquake damage. The different work done over the centuries was all of varying style and quality. Quite surprisingly there are a number of small streets still using the narrow gates. At Hoca Çakır Cd one comes across a restored section of the wall where the heights are accessed by stairs, some along the top of the wall of the steeper variety. This restoration from the 80s is in conflict with the original. The wall is then breached for the main road Fevzi Paşa Cd. Cross this and continue along the street at the back of the wall. Look for foot pads and breaks in the wall which allows access and a good look around. The wall is breached again for Adnan Menderes Blv (unofficially and widely known as Vatan Caddesi). Past here one see here quite clearly the double line of defence with outer moat. The next breach is for Turgut Özal Cd (unofficially and widely known as Millet Caddesi) which hosts the tram line heading back to Sultanahmet for those who have run out of steam. Walking now on the outside of the walls, various breaks in the outer wall allow access via broken stonework or later via modern sets of steps in disrepair. Between the walls is the disquieting evidence of the number of people sleeping rough in Istanbul. Persevere in staying between the walls because soon you will arrive at another impure restoration project at Mevlanakapı Cd gate. Note that entry to the gate towers has been closed at the gate, so entry is only from the walls. From here it is better to proceed on the outside of the walls because market gardens occupy the moat and the city side abuts buildings. These couple of kms will give a further perspective of the ravages of time and earthquake on the walls. Finally you will arrive at the Golden Gate and Yedikule Fortress which fronts the Marmara Sea and was Byzantium’s triumphal point of entry. This is in excellent condition not least because the Ottomans upgraded it and then used it right up to the 19th century. There is an entry fee and it boasts a loo. The high walls and towers are all accessible, and one tower still has internal wooden floors. So you have now surveyed the protective land walls which kept Byzantium and the Eastern Roman Empire safe for all those years after the fall of Rome, breached only by the 4th Crusaders and the Ottomans. What of their future? Given that recent restoration work is fairly suspect scholars may think it is better to leave them be. Now return to the city either in the Eminönü Bus (#80) from the village square outside the main gate, just wait there, or walk down Yedikule Istasyonu Cd about 300m to the railway line to Sirkeci, both heading for centres close to Sultanahmet.

The Classic Bosphorus Cruise

From the terminal immediately east of the Galata Bridge starts the large ferry cruising to Anadolu Kavagi at the northern entrance of Bosphorus to the Black Sea via various stops. The fare is TL 25. The departure time is early and is very popular, so arrive early and queue. The open decks are hugely popular, so unless you have an outside seat expect people to be standing all around you constricting the view. The ferry waits some hours in Anadolu Kavagi so as you alight you are confronted by a numerous restaurants and their spruikers. Firstly take the walk to the Yoros Kalesi, a strategic castle overlooking and controlling the entry to the Black Sea. This important fortification with a commanding view has been fought over for many years and was last in use in the 19th century. It has fallen into serious disrepair, but Christian engravings are still visible in the stonework. There are restaurants actually in the castle surrounds and naturally have spectacular views. There is plenty of time left to wander back to the village for lunch. It is late afternoon before arrival back at Eminonu, but a day well spent. A cheaper and faster Bosphorus cruise alternative is a TL 10 trip on a shorter cruise.

Football

Football (soccer) is the most popular sport in Turkey, and Turkish football fans are known for their passion. Many teams from other parts of Europe consider the atmosphere to be very intimidating when they have to play away matches in Turkey. The most intense rivalries in Turkish football are between Beşiktaş [15], Fenerbahçe [16], and Galatasaray [17], and matches between these sides are always played in front of sell-out crowds; getting tickets requires booking way in advance. As the atmosphere is extremely hostile to the away teams, spectators should avoid wearing away team colours after the match, and avoid any signs of crowd trouble.

Learn

Many foreigners visiting or living in Istanbul decide to study Turkish formally in a language school. Some of the biggest and most respected Turkish language schools in Istanbul are:

- Dilmer in Gümüşsuyu [18].

- Tömer, Ankara University affiliated [19].

- Concept Languages in Etiler [20].

- Boğaziçi University [21]. Runs a summer long intensive Turkish language course for all levels.

Both Boğaziçi University and Bilgi University [22] have well established Study Abroad programs in English for foreigners.

Ottoman Turkish

If you already speak Turkish, Ottoman Turkish may also be interesting to learn. Ottoman Turkish was the courtly form of Turkish spoken during the era of the Ottoman Empire, and is significantly different to the form of Turkish spoken today. Approximately 80% of Ottoman Turkish words were loanwords from other languages, mostly Arabic, Persian and French. After the fall of the Ottoman Empire and the establishment of the Republic of Turkey, language reforms were implemented, including the establishment of the Türk Dil Kurumu (Turkish Language Association), which is the official regulatory body of the Turkish language. This association, with a philosophy of linguistic purism, decided to cleanse the Turkish language of loanwords and replace them with more Turkic alternatives. As such, only about 14% of modern Turkish words are of foreign origin.

Ottoman Turkish is the key to learning about Turkey's Ottoman past. With Ottoman Turkish, not only can you read historical archives, but you can also read Ottoman literature and letters dated back to the Ottoman period. In Istanbul, you can learn Ottoman Turkish from the following places:

- İsmek +90 212 531 01 41 İskenderpaşa Mahallesi, Ahmediye Caddesi, Hacı Salih Efendi Sokak, 6 Fatih.

- Tarih Vakfı +90 212 522 02 02 Zindankapı Değirmen Sokak, 15 Eminönü [23].

Work

There is always a high demand for qualified - and, to a lesser extent, unqualified - ESOL/EFL teachers in Istanbul. Many teachers work with private instructional companies. Others contract out on a freelance basis.

Istanbul is Turkey's financial capital. All big investment banks, commercial banks, large foreign retail and consumer companies have offices in Istanbul. The business district has been coming up with high-rise buildings and business centers in the last decade.

Buy

Connecting east and west, the will to control the major trading routes was the reason why Istanbul was founded in the first place, so shopping should definitely not be overlooked in your Istanbul experience.

The currency used in Istanbul is the Turkish Lira (TL) though the euro and US dollar are also accepted at places frequented by tourists (although certain tourist attractions such as the Hagia Sophia only accept liras). Currency exchanges (döviz bürosu) and banks are plentiful in Istanbul and offer extremely competitive exchange rates with no commission charged. If you are planning to visit Istanbul, bring hard foreign currency and exchange them after you arrive, preferably at a bank or a currency exchange. Exchange only what you need as you will find difficulty exchanging your leftover TL back to foreign currency after you leave the country. Alternatively, withdraw money from ATMs whenever you need cash.

Shops may be closed on Sundays. Most major shopping malls have security checkpoints you usually see in airports and museums prior to entry.

Istanbul's historical bazaars with an oriental ambiance, once sitting firmly on the western terminii of the Silk Road and spice routes, all dating back to Ottoman era, are all located in the the peninsula of Old City.

On the other hand, modern shopping malls (alışveriş merkezi, usually shortened to AVM), popping all around the city in the last three decades, are mostly to be found in New Istanbul and western suburbs, though they are by no means exclusively located in these districts.

If you are after top quality upmarket garments, then you may better head for Nişantaşı in European Side and Bağdat Avenue in Asian Side.

Here are some of what are popular to buy while in the city:

- Turkish Delight, or Lokum (as the locals call it). A good buy since you're in Turkey. It is advisable to buy it fresh rather than in pre-packed boxes and to get a variety of flavors rather than the stereotypical rose-water or lemon flavors available abroad. Pistachio in particular is very good. The best place to buy lokum in Istanbul is from a store. Istiklal Caddesi in particular features a number of stores that sell Turkish sweets by the kilogram including lokum and helvah. There are quite a few shops selling delicious Turkish Delight in the Grand Bazaar, although I wouldn't recommend buying from them unless you have advanced haggling skills, or you don't mind being ripped off.

- Turkish Tea (çay, CHAI). The national drink of Turkey, brewed from leaves grown on the steep, verdant mountain slopes of Turkey's eastern Black Sea coast. Traditionally, Turkish tea is brewed samovar-style, with a small pot of very strong tea sitting on a larger vessel of boiling water. Pour a small amount of strong tea into a little tulip-shaped glass and cut it to the desired strength with hot water. Turks usually add cube sugar (never milk, although you can often get milk if you ask.) Having fresh, hot tea always available everywhere is one of life's splendid little luxuries in Turkey. Elma Çay: apple tea, like hot apple juice (EHL-mah chah-yee) is the flavor of preference.

- Rugs and kilims can be a good buy while in the city. Most rug-specialized stores in the city, though, are aimed at tourist trade, so pick up basics of haggling to avoid being ripped off at these stores. They are mostly located around Sultanahmet.

- Chalcedony. A semi-precious gemstone named after the near-by town of Chalcedon, and is sold in many of Istanbul's multitude of jewellery shops.

- Off the Beaten Path. Places that offer the best at what they do but are not on any of the traditional tourist paths.

- ArkeoPera, Yenicarsi Caddesi, 16/A Petek Han, Galatasaray, +90 212 2930378 [24]. Best antiquarian bookshop in Turkey, owner knows every Turkish excavation site first hand.

- Gonul Paksoy, 6/A Atiye Sokak, Tesvikiye, +90 212 2360209. Peerless one-of-a-kind dresses made for royalty from refined, antique Ottoman-era cloth.

- Iznik Foundation, 7 Oksuz Cocuk Sokak, Kurucesme, +90 212 2873243 [25]. Offers neo-Iznik pottery after recreating original formulas from original Iznik kilns, which functioned between 1450 and 1650.

- Sedef Mum, 50 Irmak Caddesi, Dolapdere, +90 212 2535793. Artisans of the time honored art of candle making, intricately sculpted and aromatic wares make very portable gifts.

Eat

For individual restaurant listings, check district articles.

Snacks

- Döner. Always a good option for having fast and cheap food. The entrance to Istiklal Street contains dozens of small doner restaurants and they serve almost 24 hours. In Besiktas neighborhood, Karadeniz is a non-touristy, small place but local favorite for not using minced meat but full chunks of beef (the place is near fish market in Besiktas). It costs slightly more (8 liras per portion) but it is probably one of the best in the entire country. Also, in the Sultanahmet area, "Sedef" is a small buffet-type restaurant which has quality Turkish fast-food. "Doner Durum with yellow cheese" is delicious, don't miss.

- Balık-Ekmek. Balik-Ekmek (literally "fish and bread") is a fish sandwich served in small boats and little buffets in Eminonu. It is also increasingly popular in buffets in Kadıköy coast. A regular sandwich consists of one small fried fish, slices of tomatoes and onion. However, the taste is beyond expectations for such a basic menu. The price is around 4 TL. Again, it's a local favorite.

- Hamsi. In Autumn and Winter the Black Sea Anchovy migrate through the Bosphorus, the local fishermen coming out in force to take advantage. All fish restaurants have them on the menu in season. It seems the classic serving is a handful of deep fried fish with raw onion and bread. Eat the fish whole, it's a winner. Look for the small restaurants behind the fish merchants on the Karakoy side of the Galata Bridge, western side. Expect to pay TL6.

- Patso. Patso is a type of sandwich consisting of hot dog and french fries. It's usually served in small buffets along the Uskudar coast and a sandwich costs 1.50 TL. The cheap price can raise eyebrows but these buffets are open 24/7 and they serve around 1000 sandwiches per day. Even though the profit margin is low, they make a fortune, so they don't lower the quality too much (except hamburgers, don't touch those in Uskudar, but definitely try the spicy hamburgers in Taksim).

- One thing not to be missed is the local ice cream sold at the street stands, called Dondurma. While flavors are relatively standard for the region, the ice cream usually incorporates orchid root extract, which gives it an incredibly chewy and stringy texture, also lending itself to be used for marketing and attracting attention while the sellers do tricks to try to sell the ice cream. Try it!

- Kumpir is a snack which can easily be a full meal. It is originated from Albania but is quite unique to Istanbul in its present form. It consists of a baked potato with various fillings such as grated cheese, mayonnaise, ketchup, pickles, sweetcorn, sausage slices, carrots, mushrooms, and Russian salad among others, any of which can optionally be added to or omitted from the mix. While kumpir can be had at many cafes throughout the city, it is best had from one of the cafes in Ortaköy, which have a long tradition of preparing kumpir and offer really filling and tasty ones. About 7-8 TL each.

- Roasted chestnuts("kestane Kebap, as locals call it) are sold from carts around the city, and is a very nice snack to have when the weather is cold, as it keeps your hands warm. 3 Lr for 100 gr.

- Boiled and roasted corn on the cob is sold from carts around the city, and is a fantastic snack to walk around. Price varies from cart to cart and area of the city (between 1 and 1.5 Lr).

- Don't miss "Simit" a warm bread sold from carts around the city, and is a fantastic snack to walk around. The texture and taste is a bit like a sesame bagel. Price varies from cart to cart and area of the city (between .75 and 1 Lr).

- Also, be sure to try Ayran , a local drink based on yoghurt, although sour and much thinner. It isn't always on the menu or displayed, but it's there, so ask for it.

- Freshly squeezed juice and juice blends are sold from stands and small shops all around the city, and are a refreshing treat (especially in the warmer months). The combinations range from a simple orange juice to the more rare options like pomengranate or kiwi. Price varies from shop to shop, area of the city and complexity of your order (between 2 and 4 Lr).

Drink

- Beyoğlu is notoriously known for its night life; it's full of cafes and bars with live music. People from all classes and ethnicity can be found here.

- Nişantaşı is the place for young entrepreneurs and artists, the prices are higher than Taksim.

- Kadıköy also has a nightlife scene, serving mostly locals of this part of the city. It is usually has more easy-going style of nightlife, usually with local pubs and wine houses and traditional meyhanes. If you are not staying on that side of the city, it may not worth the trouble to make an inter-continental trip just to have a drink, but drop by if you are around and thirsty.

- Nightclubs - While there are night clubs all over the city, two of the hottest clubs of Istanbul are in Ortaköy.

Sleep

In general, it is possible to find some kind of accommodation in any district of Istanbul. Here is a quick list of the districts where they are concentrated most:

- Harbiye is a popular place to stay, as in the main center of the new city on the European side, and contains a variety of international standard apartments, hotels, and moderate hotels for budget travelers. Nişantaşı and Taksim are 5 minutes from Harbiye so you can stay in Harbiye and benefit from all activities in Nişantaşı and Taksim.

- Taksim is the main center of the new city on the European side. Locals and tourists go to Taksim for shopping and entertainment, as well as moderate hotels for budget travelers. There are also two hostels in this area.

- Sultanahmet the main center for the old city on the European side. It has a selection of quality, reasonably priced hotels, many with terraces overlooking the Golden Horn, or with views of the Marmara Sea and the Blue Mosque. Most hostel-type accommodation frequented by independent travellers are located in this district, although it is possible to find a few upmarket hotels.

- Quite pricey hotels can be found in western suburbs, especially around the airport, as well as on/overlooking the banks of Bosphorus.

- With the closure of relatively central Ataköy caravan park, the place where you can tow your caravan nearest to the city is now located in Selimpaşa, a far outer western suburb of the city, though it is still a good 40 km away from central parts of the city.

Contact

Telephone codes

Istanbul is the only city/province in Turkey which has more than one telephone code: 212 for European side, 216 for Asian side and Princes’ Islands. When calling from one continent to the other, the usual dialing format used for intercity calls should be used, as if it’s an intercity call: 0+area code (212 or 216)+7-digit telephone number. It may appear as an intercity call, but it will be treated as a local call in respect to payment. When making an intercontinental call, if you forget to dial the code, your call will not be automatically routed to the other continent number, it is likely that you will be connected to the “wrong” number which is in the same continent with you, because much of the number sets are used on both continents (albeit with different codes of course). When dialing a number that is on the continent you are already standing on, only 7-digit number is enough. Don’t forget to dial the code first no matter which continent you are in if you are calling a landline number from a cell phone (even if it’s a number that is in the same continent with you), though.

SIM Cards

Prepaid SIM cards can be bought (for around 30 TL with 5TL usable balance) at Vodafone, Avea or Turkcell kiosks at the airport or in shops around town. They might ask to make a copy of your passport.

However, to be able to use your phone you need to get it unlocked for use in Turkey. This process takes up to 4 days so getting a SIM isn't really practical for people on a short visit.

Internet

Cafés with free wireless internet (wi-fi):

- Several of the nargile places in Tophane

- Several cafes in Cihangir, including Kahvedan, Meyva, Komşufırın and Kahve Altı

- Many cafés and restaurants along Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu

- Both the large American fast food restaurant chains

- There is one upstairs by the restaurants facing the side of Aya Sofia and behind the entrance to the Basilica in Sultanahmet.

- Starbucks has quite a few shops around, and (at least) those at the touristic zones, has a free wireless connection.

In the recent years, the number of cafes and shopping centers with wi fi Internet access has increased dramatically, most of them still being free. Most internet cafes have high speed ADSL connections, and they are very inexpensive compared to Europe (about 0.50-1.50 Euros per hour).

- Most hostels and hotels of the Sultanahmet area have wi-fi Internet access in thier lobby, and often in the rooms.

Stay safe

As with most European cities, but especially in crowded areas of Istanbul, watch your pockets and travel documents as pickpockets have devised all sorts of strategies to obtain them from you. Do not rely too much on the 'safe' feeling you get from the omnipresence of policemen.

Istanbul is home to three of the biggest clubs in Turkey and arguably European football: Beşiktaş, Fenerbahçe, and Galatasaray. It is advisable not to wear colours associating yourself with any of the clubs—black&white, blue&yellow, and red&yellow respectively, particularly on the days of matches between the sides due to the fearsome rivalry they share.

Scams

Blue Mosque scam guides

When walking through the gates of the Blue Mosque, beware of smiling, friendly chaps who offer immediately to be your de-facto guide through the mosque and its surrounds; they'd be pretty informative on just about anything relating to the mosque; etiquette, history and Islamic practices. However, needless to say, they would eventually demand a price for their "services", a quotation that can be as high as 50TL (or equivalent to Euro25 or Gbp20). One would be better off booking a private tour online; or not at all, since the mosque is essentially free to all anyway.

Taksim barorclub scams

Tourists must be aware of high-drink prices scams encountered in so-called night-clubs mostly located in Aksaray, Beyazit and Taksim areas. These clubs usually charge overpriced bills, based on a replica of the original menu, or simply on the menu that had been standing upside down on the table.

Also be aware of friendly behaving groups of young men or male-female couples striking up a conversation in the street and inviting you to a "good nightclub they know". This has frequently been reported as a prelude to such a scam. The person(s) in on the scam may offer to take you to dinner first, in order to lower your suspicions. Another way they will try to lure you in is by talking to you in Turkish, and when you mumble back in your language they will be surprised you're not Turkish and immediately will feel the urge to repay you for their accident with a beer.

In either of these scams, if you refuse to pay the high prices or try to call the police (dial #155) to file a complaint, the club managers may use physical intimidation to bring the impasse to a close.

A recently encountered variant of this involved an invitation in Taksim to two male tourists (separately, within an hour of one another) to buy them beer (as they were "guests"). At the club, two attractive ladies, also with beers, joined them. When the time came for the bill, the person inviting the tourist denied having said he would pay for the drinks, and a bill was presented for 1500 Lira; when the tourists in question expressed an inability to pay such a high amount, burly "security" personnel emerged, who the manager explained would accompany the tourist to an ATM machine (presumably to clean out their bank account). In one of the above examples, the tourist escaped by shouting for the police once on the street; in the other, a much lower amount was accepted from the tourist.

Another recent incident occurred at a bar/club named SIA, located near the intersection of Acara and Istiklal Streets. 3 tourists were approached by 2 men, asking them to go for "drinks together". The tourists were led by the men into the club named SIA (these three letters appear in silver beside the club's entrance), and ordered drinks. Later, some ladies working for the club joined the group and ordered drinks, which the club put on the tabs of the 3 tourists. Overall, they were cheated of over 600 Lira. The original bill was much higher, and the tourists suffered verbal and physical intimidation when they did not have enough money to pay up. Finally the people at the club gave up and let them go. Travelers should avoid the above-mentioned club, for their own safety.

Another recent scam involved a bar named "Köşk", which is located close to Taksim Square on Istikal Street. Two tourists were asked for a lighter, and began chatting with a "friendly" Iraqi-Kurdish "gentleman". After walking around and talking for half an hour, the tourists asked if he wanted to grab a beer before they left the city. On the way to a bar, the man suggested another bar, and they were brought to the back. Three women sat down and the tourists were asked to buy drinks for them. They declined, and realizing the scam would not get much further, the man asked for the check, which charged 27 Turkish Lira for each beer. The tourists got away only paying 20 Lira each for their beers, but felt very strangely after consuming just one beer and noticed that their host had not drank any of his. This led them to suspect that a minor sedative may have been added to the drink to increase drunkenness. Travelers should be very wary of this bar and always ask prices before ordering.

All these point to these scams in Taksim becoming more serious, and the possible involvement of organized crime. Be careful. If you find yourself in a situation for any reason, do whatever they want you to do, pay the bill, buy the things they are forcing you to buy, etc. Try to get out of situation as soon as possible, go to a safe place and call the police (dial #155).

That said, sometimes there is a chance to run, such as a case in August, 2009, when a man was able to escape. His sudden leave may have caught the waiters off guard; in all hastiness they forget to put someone at the door, thus leaving an opening.

In August 2010, after reading this and being aware one man still ventured out alone. He was greeted very nicely at the bar, and received a beer. After sitting with a beer, the door man brought a woman to him, and asked to buy her a drink. He refused several times, and asked for his bill. The price was 30 TL for one beer, while the average price is 8 TL. Be very aware of this scam in the city. The man brought the manager outside and explained how he knew, and said if he bought a drink for a woman it would be 150 TL per drink. The name of the bar was "Rolans Restaurant - cafe & bar." Please avoid it at all costs. Also be wary of men in Taksim who splash water on the backs of your neck. When you turn around, they will try to start a fight with you as another man comes in and robs you. These men tend to carry knives and can be very dangerous.

LiraorEuro Scams

A frequent scam, often in smaller hotels (but it can also happen in a variety of other contexts), is to quote prices in Lira and then later, when payment is due, claim the price was given in Euros. Hotels which reject payment early in a stay and prefer you to "pay when you leave" should raise suspicions. Hotels which operate this scam often offer excellent service and accommodation at a reasonable price and know most guests will conclude as much and pay without complaint - thus (ironically) this can be a sign of a good hotel.

Another scam is coin-related and happens just as you're walking into the streets. A Turkish guy holds you and asks where you are from. If you mention a Euro-country, the guy wants you to change a €50 note from you into two-Euro coins he is showing. He is holding the coins stack-wise in his hands. For the trouble, he says he will offer you '30 two-Euro coins, making €60 in total'. Do not agree with this exchange of money, as the first coin is indeed a two-Euro coin, but (many of) the rest of the coins will probably be 1 Lira coins (looking very similar), but worth only 1/4 of the value of €2.

Many bars in the Taksim area give you counterfeit bills. They are usually well-made and hard to identify as fakes in the dark. One way to verify its authenticity is to check its size against another bill. Another is to hold the bill up to a strong light, face side up, and check for an outline of the same face which is on the bill. The value of the bill (20, 50, etc) should appear next to the outline, light and translucent. If either if these two security features are missing, try to have the bill changed or speak to the police.

Shoebrush

Some people will walk around Taksim with a shoeshine kit, and the brush will fall off. This is a scam to cause some Western tourist with a conscience to pick it up and return it to the owner, who will then express gratitude and offer to shine your shoes for free. While doing that, he will talk about how he is from another city and how he has a sick child. At the end, the shiner will demand a much higher price for the "free" services provided than is the actual market norm.

If you actively decide that you would like your shoes shined, then expect to pay not more than 5 lira for both.

Taxi drivers

Taxis are plentiful in Istanbul and inexpensive by Western European and American standards. They can be picked up at taxi hubs throughout the city or on the streets. Empty cabs on the streets will honk at pedestrians to see if they would like a ride, or cabs can be hailed by pedestrians by making eye contact with the driver and waving. Few taxi drivers speak languages other than Turkish, but do a fair job at deciphering mispronounced location names given by foreign riders. It is advisable to have the name of the destination written down and try to have a map beforehand to show the driver, to avoid any misunderstanding and also potential scams. Though taxis are plentiful, be aware that taxis are harder to find during peak traffic hours and traffic jams and when it is raining and snowing. They are also less frequent during nights, depending on the area and and are hard to find after midnight.

Try to avoid using taxis for short distances (5-10 minutes of walk) if possible. Some taxi drivers can be annoyed with this, especially if you called the cab from a taxi hub instead of hailing it from the street. If you want taxis for short distances, just hail them from the street, do not go to the taxi hub.

Few taxis have seatbelts, and some drivers may seem to be reckless. If you wish for the driver to slow down, say "yavash lütfen" (slow please). Your request may or may not be honored.

Unfortunately, as in any major city, tourists are more vulnerable to taxi scams than locals. Be aware that taxi drivers use cars affiliated with a particular hub, and that the name and phone number of the hub, as well as the license plate number, are written on the side of each car. Noting or photographing this information may be useful if you run into problems. In general, riding in taxis affiliated with major hotels (Hilton, Marriot, Ritz, etc.) is safe, and it is not necessary to stay in these hotels to use a taxis leaving from their hubs.

Others may take unnecessarily long routes to increase the amount due (although sometimes alternate routes are also taken to avoid Istanbul traffic, which can be very bad). Some scams involve the payment transaction; for example, if the rider pays 50 TL when only 20 TL are needed, the driver may quickly switch it with a 5 TL note and insist that the rest of the 20 TL is still due or may switch the real bill for a fake one and insist that different money be given.

Methods to avoid taxi scams:

1. SIT IN THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT. Watch the meter. Watch the driver's actions (beeping the horn, pumping the brakes, etc) and note what the taximeter does. While it is rare, some drivers will wire parts of their controls to increase the fare upon activation. If you're with your significant other, do it anyway. Save the cuddling for after the ride. Check if the seal on the taximeter is broken. Use your phone for light. This will make the driver realize that you are cautious. Note that for women it is better to sit in the back seat (where you can see the meter from the middle), as there are occassionally problems with taxi drivers getting overly friendly, and sitting in the front is a sign that a woman welcomes such behavior.

2. Ask "How much to go to...?" (basic English is understood), before getting in the taxi. Price will be quite accurate to the one in the taximeter at the end of the ride. If the price sounds ok for you, get in the cab and tell them to put the Taximeter on. Since 2009, the rate they are applying is same during night and day. Also you can use this useful and up-to-date cab fare estimation tool for Istanbul: [26]

3. Know the route. If you have a chance, find a map and demand that the driver take your chosen route to the destination. Often times they will drive the long way or pretend not to know where you're going in order to get more money out of you. If the driver claims not to know the route to a major landmark or gathering place, refuse his services as he is likely lying.

4. Choose an elderly driver. Elderly taxi drivers are less likely to cheat passengers.

5. Let taxi driver see money on your hands and show values and take commitment on it. This is 50 Lira. OK? Take this 50 Lira and give 30 Lira back OK?. This guarantees your money value. Otherwise, your 50 Lira can be 5 Lira immediately on his hands. Try to have always 10 Lira or 20 Lira bills in your wallet. This makes money scams in general more difficult. If you realize that the driver tried to use the 50 Lira to 5 Lira trick on you, call the police (#155) immediately and write down the license plate.

6. Create a big scene if there is a problem. If you are absolutely positive you have been subject to a scam, threaten to or call the police and, if you feel it will help, start yelling. Taxi drivers will only rip off those they think will fall for it; creating a scene draws attention to them and will make it easier to pay the correct rate.

Overpricing

Watch the menu carefully in street cafes for signs that prices are not discriminatory — if prices are clearly over-inflated, simply leave. A good indication of over inflation is the circulation of two different types of menu — the "foreigner" menu is typically printed on a laminated card with menu prices written in laundry marker/texta, i.e., prices not be printed; in these cases, expect that prices for foreigners will be highly inflated (300% or higher).

While this is not really a problem in Beyoğlu or Ortaköy, avoiding the open air cafes toward the rear courtyard of the Spice Bazaar (Sultanahmet) is wise. The area immediately north of the Spice Bazaar is also crawling with touts for these 'infamous' cafes.

Stalking

Men intent on stalking foreign women may be present in tourist locations. Such men may presume that foreigners have a lot of money or liberal values and may approach foreign women in a flirtatious or forward manner looking for sex or for money (either by theft or selling over-priced goods). If you are being harassed, use common sense and go to where other people are; often this is the nearest store. Creating a public scene will deter many stalkers, and these phrases may be useful in such cases:

- İmdat! - "Help me!"

- Ayıp! - "Rude!"

- Bırak beni! - "Leave me alone!"

- Dur! - "Stop it!"

- Gider misin?! - "Will you go?!"

Or to really ruin him:

- Beni takip etme?! - "Can you please stop stalking me?!"

- Polisi ariyorum - "I am calling the cops!"

- Siktir Git - "Fuck off!"

Occasionally try not to use Turkish as the stalker will like it more, just scream and run and find a safer place with crowd and police.

Race, Ethnicity and Religion

Some service providers (hotels, shop keepers, taxis, luxury night clubs's entrances) today have a negative attitude towards black people, that will be because—rather than xenophobia—they might think you do not have enough money to spend, due to the fact that most of the black people who settled in Istanbul have a poor economical background.

Tourism Police

Istanbul PD has a "Tourism Police" department where travelers may report passport loss and theft or any other criminal activity by which they are victimized. They have an office in Sultanahmet and can reportedly speak English, German, French, and Arabic.

- Tourism Police (Turizm Polisi), Yerebatan Caddesi 6, Sultanahmet (in the yellow wooden building between Hagia Sophia and the entrance of Basilica Cistern, few meters away from each), +90 212 527 45 03 (fax: +90 212 512 76 76).

Stay healthy

Tap may not be safe depending on where you drink it. Although the tap water itself is clean, many local water tanks are not maintained properly, and one should try to avoid tap water if possible. Locals widely prefer bottled water and the same applies for the restaurants.

Food and drinks are mostly of international standards. Some Turkish foods are known to use a variety of spices which may affect international tourists who may not be accustomed to such ingredients, although most of it is edible for any tongue.

Use common sense when buying certain foods, particularly from street vendors. Delicacies such as "Firin Sutlac" (a kind of rice pudding) can go bad rapidly on a hot day, as can the oysters occasionally for sale on the streets.

Cope

Keep in mind that Istanbul's less-than-scrupulous hotel and restaurant owners are as market savvy as they come—they actually read the popular travel guides to Istanbul and when they get listed or favorably reviewed, they raise prices through the roof and skimp on costs. For mid-range and cheap hotels/restaurants, you may actually have a better time if you avoid places listed in your guide. Trust your nose.

Consulates

- Argentina, Tepecik Yolu 58, Etiler, +90 212 257-70-50.

- Australia, Asker Ocağı Caddesi 15, Elmadağ, +90 212 243-13-33.

- Austria, Köybaşı Caddesi 46, Yeniköy, +90 212 363-84-10, [27].

- Belgium, Sıraselviler Caddesi 39, Taksim, +90 212 243-33-00, [28].

- Brazil, Ekspres Yolu Kavak Sokak 3, Ser Plaza A Blok Kat: 3, Yenibosna, +90 212 652-10-00/115 (ethemsancak@hedefalliance.com.tr), [29].

- Bulgaria, Ahmet Adnan Saygun Caddesi 44, Ulus-Levent, +90 212 281-01-15, [30].

- Canada, İstiklal Caddesi 189/5, Beyoğlu, +90 212 251-98-38, [31].

- Denmark, Meygede Sokak 2, Bebek, +90 212 359-19-00, [32].

- Finland, Cumhuriyet Caddesi 71, 8th floor, Elmadağ, +90 212 296-95-49, [33].

- France, İstiklal Caddesi 4, Beyoğlu-Taksim, +90 212 334-87-30, [34].

- Germany, İnönü Caddesi 10, Gümüşsuyu-Taksim, +90 212 334-61-00, [35].

- Greece, Turnacıbaşı Sokak 22, Beyoğlu, +90 212 393-82-90, [36].

- India, Cumhuriyet Caddesi 18, Dörtler Apt. 7th floor, Elmadağ, +90 212 296-21-31, [37].

- Iran, Ankara Caddesi 1, Cağaloğlu, +90 212 513-82-30.

- Italy, Tom Tom Kaptan Sokak 5, Beyoğlu, +90 212 243-10-24, [38].

- Japan, Büyükdere Caddesi 209, Tekfen Tower 10th, 4.Levent, +90 212 317-46-00, [39].

- Republic of Korea, Piyalepaşa Bulv. 73, Ortadoğu Plaza, 18th floor, Okmeydanı, +90 212 368-83-68, [40].

- Macedonia, Inönü Caddesi. Üçler apt. 20/5 Gumussuyu/Taksim, +90 212 251-22-33 (istanbul@mfa.gov.mk, fax: +90 212 293-77-65).

- Mexico, Balmumcu Mahallesi, Barbaros Bulvarı, Gamze Apartmanı 76/5, Beşiktaş, +90 212 274-24-64 (mexicoconsulate@superonline.com), [41].

- Netherlands, İstiklal Caddesi 197, Beyoğlu, +90 212 393-21-21, [42].

- New Zealand, İnönü Caddesi 48/3, Taksim, +90 212 244-02-72, [43].

- Norway, Bilezik Sokak 4, Fındıklı, +90 212 249-97-53, [44].

- Pakistan, Cengiz Topal Cad. Gülşen Sok. No: 5, Beyaz Ev 3. Etiler, +90 212 358-45-06.

- Romania, Yanarsu Sokak, Narin Sitesi 42, Etiler, +90 212 358-05-15, [45].

- Russia, İstiklal Caddesi 443, Beyoğlu, +90 212 292-51-01.

- Spain, Karanfil Aralığı Sokak 16, 1. Levent, +90 212 270-74-10, [46].

- Sweden, İstiklal Caddesi 247, Beyoğlu, +90 212 334-06-00, [47].

- Switzerland, Büyükdere Caddesi 173, 1.Levent Plaza A-Blok 3rd floor, Levent, +90 212 283-12-82, [48].

- Syria, Maçka Caddesi 59/3, Teşvikiye, +90 212 232-67-21.

- United Kingdom, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 34, Tepebaşı-Beyoğlu, +90 212 334-64-00.

- United States, İstinye Mahallesi, Kaplıcalar Mevkii No.2, İstinye, +90 212 335-90-00, [49].

Get out

- Kilyos — Located by the Black-sea shore on the European side, Kilyos is a half-hour drive from Taksim under normal circumstances. The village has more than a dozen private and public beaches, some of which require membership to enter. Though there are ways to get to Kilyos with buses and dolmus, the best way is to use a private car, since the journey will take longer than usual during summer. Note, that the sea is rough, and high waves and currents make it difficult and somewhat dangerous to swim for people who are not expert and cautious. Drownings occur every year. For your safety, do not swim outside the limits of the designated swimming area, which are marked by buoys.

- Atatürk Arboretum (living tree museum) is the place for nature lovers. Easily accessible by public buses from various locations in the city, the arboretum near the Black Sea coast in a verdant forest offers gorgeous scenery—which reaches its zenith in autumn as the leaves change to crimson, golden, purple, or anywhere inbetween—and a spectacular view of Bosphorus, which is seen like a turquoise lake from an observation tower, which also serves well as a spot for birdwatching.

- Anadolu Kavağı — While officially the northernmost district of the city, Anadolu Kavağı (also known simply as Kavak) on the Asian bank of Bosporus is in reality a separate town, accessible only by a windy and narrow road through the forest, by infrequent public buses, or by ferries (the best way to go there). Ferries depart from Eminönü (once or twice a day, from the pier named Boğaz İskelesi) and Sariyer (much more frequently), which is the northernmost district on European side (to get to Sariyer, you should take public bus #40 from Taksim). While in Anadolu Kavağı, climb up to the citadel on the hill (follow the signs starting from the square near the quay, it takes about 20 minutes on foot, free admission). The citadel is named Yoros and it’s unclear who built it, maybe Byzantines or the Genoese perhaps, but it’s pretty obvious that it was built to protect the northern entrance of Bosphorus. The castle offers a perfect view of the entrance of Bosporus and the Black Sea beyond, as if not much has changed since Jason and the Argonauts sailed through here in pursuit of Golden Fleece. When you turn your back to Black Sea on the other hand, you’ll have a distant view of business district of the city, full of skyscrapers. When you’re done in the castle, return back to town centre, and before boarding the ship that will take you back to the city, have a waffle and a hot coffee in one of the cafés near the shore if it’s winter. Recently a number of open-air cafes just across the street from the citadel has been opened as well, overlooking the pleasant wooded vale, the village, and the Bosphorus below. (Note: Citadel and surrounding areas get really crowded at weekends during summer months, which makes falling into mythical dreams a little difficult. Also avoid staying around the castle after the night falls in winter, as scarily large dogs occupy all over the place.)

- Polonezköy — A village in the Asian side of Istanbul, about 20 km away from central parts of the city. It was founded by Polish settlers in 19th century.

- Şile — Located by the Black-Sea shore on the Anatolian side, Şile is a 45 minutes drive to Taksim. Though, it will take ca. 1.5-2 hours to get there if you take the bus from Üsküdar. It is a village growing rapidly, famous for its fish and special cotton fabric Şile Bezi (cloth of Şile). Similar to Kilyos, Şile also has its own private and public beaches. Note, that the sea is rough, and high waves and currents as well as the dangerous sand type of the sea, make it difficult and somewhat dangerous to swim for people who are not expert and cautious. Drownings occur every year. For your safety, do not swim outside the limits of the designated swimming area, which are marked by buoys.

- Ağva — Lying to the east of Şile, you can get to Ağva by bus or car. By car, it will take 20-30' and by bus ca. 1 hour. Ağva is a tourist-attracting, small holiday village. It has less make-up for tourist. You can observe the local life. Although it is less crowded than Kilyos and Şile due their relative proximity to Istanbul, its beach became due to the increase of visitors dirty recently. But if you ask locals, you can find wonderful, hidden beaches (such as "Kilimli"). Note, that the sea is rough, and high waves and currents make it difficult and somewhat dangerous to swim for people who are not expert and cautious. Drownings occur every year. For your safety, do not swim outside the limits of the designated swimming area, which are marked by buoys.

- The Princes' Islands — A group of islands off the southern coast of the Asian Side of Istanbul. "Büyükada", the biggest and most famous of them all, has fairly frequent ferry connections to Eminönü and Kabatas (on the European side) and Bostanci and Kadikoy (on the Asian side) (depending on the time of year - check out the IDO and Mavi Marmara ferry services. Out of season it might be necessary to travel via Bostanci using the Mavi Marmara ferries). At Büyükada you can rent bikes and find some very secluded spots perfect for a picnic, highly recommended for when you're tired of being in a huge city with millions of people.

- Marmara Islands further out in the Sea of Marmara is a less urban alternative to Princes' Islands, and with connections to Asian mainland (to Bandırma via Erdek) can be a stopover on the longer route to Izmir.

- Silivri — It's a place of choice for people to relax & take a break from their hectic lives. Silivri is a 45 minutes drive to Levent. The best way to commute is to use a private car, since the journey will take longer than usual during summer. The summer is a popular time when people move into their summer homes in Silivri and enjoy beach activities. In fact, many new and spectacular villages have also been built there.

- Edirne in the west/northwest is a two-hour car drive or bus ride away (train is also an option but it takes much longer). This beautiful city served as the capital city of Ottoman Empire before the capital was moved to Istanbul, thus is full of history. Visiting this city can be a long day trip if you have a car at your disposal, or if you can get up very early and catch, say, 7 o’clock in the morning bus. It’s better to stay overnight to see all the sights though. If you have one more day to spare, instead of taking the shortest route, you can head to Edirne via the slightly longer northern route and visit Kıyıköy—ancient Medea, nowadays a fishing village on the Black Sea with some traditional architecture, preserved city walls, and rock-cut St Nicholas Monastery—and Vize (site of a very well preserved Byzantine cathedral, 20 km west of Kıyıköy) on the way.

- Bursa to the south/southeast, about the exact opposite direction of Edirne, can be another long day-trip, possibly combined with a de-tour to İznik on the way. Bursa is another former Ottoman capital with many earlier historical sights, as well as Uludağ National Park just south of the city.

- Çanakkale, about six hours away in the southwest, is a pleasant city on the banks of the Straits of Dardanelles, and is the hub for visiting many nearby sites, such as Gallipoli World War I memorials, ancient Troy, and charming island of Bozcaada.

- Sofia, Bulgaria, Using a night bus each way could even make this an interesting (if tiring) day trip to the capital of Bulgaria.

- Istanbul to New Delhi over land, a.k.a. "The Hippie Trail" — over land route deep into South Asia.

- Istanbul to Cairo over land — over land route deep into Middle East.

Possible hitchhiking spots

Istanbul is geographically huge, spanning two continents, so it is hard to hit the road with your thumb up immediately, although not entirely impossible. Here are a few ideas for spots (accessible by public transport) where to raise your thumb up when leaving the city.

- If you intend to head west (towards Europe) by hitchhiking, take public bus #448 (Yenibosna Metro-Mimarsinan) which departs from the bus stops located next to the ‘Yenibosna’ station of southern metro line. #448 takes you to the highway leading to west, to a highway on-ramp out of city, near Mimarsinan town. Don’t get off the bus until it leaves the highway by turning right in the on ramp junction. (fare: TL 1.50/person, though you’ll have to buy multi-use cards (at least 5 uses for TL 7.50), which makes a bad investment assuming that you are leaving the city. You can pay directly to the driver inside the bus the single-use fare, though)

- If you intend to head east or south by hitchhiking, however, it may be best to get to the neighbouring city of Izmit first. The cheapest train ticket costs 3.75 TL (3.00 TL if you have a valid student ID, this is the rate for Doğu Express, which departs 08:35 every morning) from Istanbul’s Haydarpasa station to Izmit currently. Near the train station in Izmit is a major highway junction, take east for Adapazari/Ankara/Central Anatolia/Black Sea Turkey, south for Yalova/Bursa. If you are eager for more southern locations such as Antalya, take eastward road to Adapazari first, then hit the southward road there (which eventually reaches Antalya after hundreds of kilometers). Another option to leave the city is to take the not-so-cheap fast ferries to Yalova, if you don’t object to pay much for public transport.

- There are also public buses from Kadiköy, Istanbul’s main centre on Asia, to Tuzla (#130 and #130A; fare: TL 1.50/person, 7days/24 hours service ), which is the easternmost district of the city. If you take one of these buses, get off as soon as the bus leaves the highway (colloquially known as E-5, pronounced “ay besh” in Turkish, 4-lane one-way, you can easily recognize what is this highway and what is not). Where you will get off is as far as you can get on that highway with a public bus, though most of the cars passing there will be too fast to be able to stop right beside you.

District Sultanahmet-Old City Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By tram

By metro

By bus

By boat

By train

• Get around

By tram

On foot

• See

Around Sultanahmet Square

Elsewhere

• Do

Hamams

• Buy

Mall

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

Cafés

• Sleep

Budget

Mid range

Splurge

• Contact

Internet

• Cope

Laundry

Understand
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Being a peninsula bounded by bodies of water to north, east, and south (the Golden Horn, Bosphorus, and the Sea of Marmara, respectively) and by the old city walls to west, this part of the city is essentially what used to be called Constantinople, as the rest of what is today Istanbul was part of independent cities, towns, villages, fields or even complete wilderness later absorbed by the city. This process is still going on as Istanbul grows with increasing speed.

Istanbul, or Byzantium as it was called then, was first settled by Greek colonists from Megara in Greek mainland in 667 BC. They founded their city at Seraglio Point (Sarayburnu) which is now occupied by Topkapı Palace. However, recent discoveries in a subway construction site in Yenikapı (on the southern coast of the peninsula) dates the very first date of Istanbul's settlement back to about 8000 years ago, which makes the city one of the oldest still-inhabited spots of the world. This peninsula was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985.

Get in
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Being one of the most central parts of the city, getting to the Old City by public transport is easy. The waterfront often hosts cruise ships, providing passengers (not on tours) with easy, self-arranged access to sights and shopping.

By tram
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A modern tram line lies all along the old city, connecting it with Galata and other places north, and the suburbs in the west. Tram stations are located at Eminönü, Sirkeci, Gülhane, Sultanahmet, Beyazıt, and Aksaray among others.

With the cancellation of public bus line T4 between Taksim and Sultanahmet, easiest way to get to the old city from Taksim by public transport now is to take the funicular from inside the metro station at Taksim Square and then transfer on to tram at Kabataş station.

By metro
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A metro/light rail line connects Atatürk International Airport and the main bus station (otogar) outside the city with Aksaray. From Aksaray, you can take the tram (follow the ‘tramvay’ signs) for places deeper into the Old City (such as Sultanahmet). If you are approaching from the airport, you can also change from metro to tram in Zeytinburnu. Changing at Zeytinburnu is better than changing at Aksaray, as the metro and tram stations in Zeytinburnu are much nearer to each other (making it highly unlikely to get lost!) and it’s the first station along the line, which means you can easily secure a seat after your long flight.

By bus
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Public buses connect various spots in the old city with various other places. For the traveller, the most useful lines are as follows:

- 61B Taksim – Beyazıt (very near the Grand Bazaar; also about 10-15 min walk or 3-4 min tram ride away from Sultanahmet)

- 96T the bus from Atatürk Airport to Taksim also passes through some parts of old city. The stop nearest to Sultanahmet is Aksaray/Valide Sultan. From there, you can take the tram.

- You can get on any bus which goes to Eminönü or Beyazıt since both places are very close to Sultanahmet, if you would like to go there. You can either walk (about 10-15 minutes) or take a tram from both places. However, there might be traffic at certain times.

By boat
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Liners from Kadıköy and Üsküdar across the Bosphorus moor at Eminönü. There are also smaller private boats plying on the same routes.

If you are arriving in Istanbul by one of fast ferries from towns across on the southern and southeastern coast of Marmara, your likely point of entry to the city is Yenikapı on the southern shore of the peninsula.

By train
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Trains from Europe and European Turkey have their terminii at Sirkeci station, which is located in this district. It's also possible to take the suburban trains (banliyö treni), which have about 30-min intervals and cost 1.50 TL pp, from Bakırköy and other coastal suburbs in the west to Sirkeci.

Get around
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By tram
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The tram line connects almost all of the sights frequented by travellers.

On foot
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Most of the sights in the old city are close enough to be negotiated on foot, as they are located in or around Sultanahmet Square. For many others, just follow the tram line. However, between Eminönü/Sirkeci and Sultanahmet, it is faster to to take the shortcut through Ankara Caddesi (Street) and stray away from the tramline as the tramline follows an arch through that part of the city.

The sidewalk along Hüdavendigar Caddesi between Sirkeci, Gülhane, and Sultanahmet Square is not very wide and trams pass along fairly close to the sidewalk, so watch your steps especially when you hear tram's horn.

See
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Many of Istanbul’s historical gems, mostly consisting of Byzantine and Ottoman-built monuments are in Old City. Most are located a short walk away from, if not immediately on the edges of, Sultanahmet Square. Some other sights are dispersed throughout the peninsula.

Around Sultanahmet Square
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- Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya), Sultanahmet Square (by tram: Sultanahmet), +90 212 522-17-50. Tu-Su 9AM-6PM. Dating from the sixth century, it was originally a basilica constructed for the Eastern Roman Emperor Justinian I. A masterwork of Roman engineering, the huge 30 m diameter dome covers what was for over 1000 years the largest enclosed space in the world. The church was looted by the fourth Crusaders in 1204, and became a mosque in the 15th century when The Ottomans conquered the city. It was converted into a museum in 1935. Don't miss the excellent mosaics, including those in the gallery, reached by a stone ramp to the left of the entrance. As of September 2008, entrance fee is 20 TL (only Turkish currency is accepted) You can also hire a guide at the entrance of the museum. NOTE: The inside is undergoing a major refurbishment and there is a huge amount of scaffolding in a gigantic tower going up to the top of the dome. As of Dec 2010, the museum only consists of a few pictures of the mosaics present in the Hagia Sophia and very little information.

- Topkapı Palace (Topkapı Sarayı) [1], Bab-i Hümayün Caddesi (by tram: Gülhane/Sultanahmet), +90 212 512-04-80. M,W-Su 9AM-5PM. The imperial enclave of the Ottoman emperors for four centuries. Lavishly decorated, with four courts of increasing grandeur. In the second court of the entrance to the Harem (admission extra, only by joining a guided tour) and the State Treasury, housing a weaponry display. The third court has the Imperial Treasury. Both Islamic and Christian relics, rugs, china. The views from the Fourth Court over the Bosphorus are spectacular. You can also see Prophet Mohammed's belongings. 20 TL (no concessions, no cards accepted. only Turkish currency is accepted. Harem 15 TL extra).

BEWARE Any bus or tram with a sign or indication that it heads for or calls at Topkapı will NOT take you anywhere near Topkapı Palace. Rather, it is going to a neighborhood named after the city gate near which it’s situated (“cannon gate”), which may be worth a trip to take a look at the impressive city walls. Topkapı neighborhood is located in the extreme western part of the old city, near the city walls, while Topkapı Palace is located in the extreme eastern part, which means the distance between each other is at least 7-8km. ‘Topkapı’ alone almost always refer to the neighborhood, not the palace. Taking a bus heading for Topkapı to go to the palace is a common mistake made by travellers. For the palace, the stop/station you should look for is 'Sultanahmet'.

- Hagia Irene (Aya İrini), (on the grounds of Topkapı Palace). Hagia Irene, which you will notice to your left after entering the outer yard of Topkapı Palace, is one of few Byzantine-era cathedrals which was never converted to a mosque (though not used for religious purposes either during the Ottoman period), although access to the interior is not allowed unless you have a ticket to the classical music concerts sometimes taking place inside the building.

- Sultanahmet Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii, aka Blue Mosque) [2], At Meydam Sokak 17, Sultanahmet (by tram: Sultanahmet), +90 212 518-13-19. May-Oct 9AM-9PM, Nov-Apr:9AM-7PM. With its six minarets and sweeping architecture the Sultanahmet or 'Blue' Mosque impresses from the outside. Unlike Haghia Sophia, this is still a working mosque, entry is through the courtyard on the SW side which is back side of mosque. No shorts or bare shoulders (shawls are provided) and you will need to remove your footwear (bags are provided that you can place your shoes in). Entrance is free, but donations are welcome upon exit.

- Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici). Yerebatan Cad., Sultanahmet [3], 9AM-6:30PM. A giant underground cistern built by Justinian in 532 to provide water to the city in cases of siege. A wooden walkway winds between the pillars, and lights and piped music add to the eerie atmosphere. Bring some type of fish food as you'll see enormous fish swimming below your feet. The statues of Medussa are impressive. 3 TL for Turkish citizens, 10 TL (no concessions. Turkish currency and credit cards accepted.).

- Hippodrome, adjacent to the Basilica Cistern, Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. This was the center of Roman and Byzantine Constantinople, and is a great place to begin one's tour and to watch people. The building no longer stands, but the obelisks and sculptures that have been collected here since Theodosius' time in the fourth century remain. The four bronze horses in the facade of St. Marco in Venice used to be on top of the Emperor's box in the Hippodrome and they were looted by the crusaders in 1204. While you are on your way to the hippodrome, don’t forget to check out German Fountain (Alman Çeşmesi), a neo-Byzantine style fountain building at the square leading to Hippodrome. It was a gift sent by German Kaiser Wilhelm II to the Ottoman Sultan.

- The Museum of Archeology (Arkeoloji Müzesi), Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu, Gülhane (tram: Gülhane; take the first right after entering Gülhane Park), +90 212 520-77-42, [4]. Tu-Su 9AM-5PM. Tickets stop being sold at 4PM. A must see! One of the best, including a great collection of Sumerian tablets, pieces of the wall of Babylon and Roman marble statues. The Alexander Sarcophagus, once believed to be the sarcophagus of Alexander the Great himself (but later found out to be not the case), which is very well preserved and highly adorned with bas-relief carvings of Alexander the Great is among the most famous pieces of ancient art displayed in the museum. 10 TL.

- Great Palace Mosaics Museum (Büyük Saray Mozaikleri Müzesi), Arasta Çarşısı, Sultanahmet (just south of Blue Mosque), +90 212 518-12-05 (fax: +90 212 512-54-74), [5]. Tu-Su 9AM-4:30PM. Located in Arasta Bazaar, this museum hosts the pavement mosaics of the Byzantine-era Great Palace of Constantinople, which once occupied all the way from Sultanahmet Square, then the Hippodrome, to the coast of the Sea of Marmara.

- Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art, (Sultanahmet). Carpets, rugs, calligraphy, pottery. With the same ticket, you can visit also the Ethnographic Museum downstairs where you can learn about the lifestyle of the Turks and their ancestors. 10 TL.

- Million, (on the street with the tram line, close to the entrance of Basilica Cistern). While this partially intact marble pillar dating back to 4th century AD may seem unremarkable, it was the starting point of any distance measured within the empire during the Byzantine era, so it may be nice to think that you are in the centre of where all the roads lead to (or, rather, start from).

- Gülhane Park (near Sultanahmet, and next door to Museum of Archaeology). This park was royal hunting grounds in the past. Today it’s a public park with lots of seasonal flowers, including huge patches of tulips in early April, and huge plane trees (platanus)—which means lots of shade as well. The high walls on one side of the park seperates it from Topkapı Palace. At one end of the park are a group of nice outdoor cafés—all of which basically serve the same drinks and snacks—with a view of Bosphorus, a view that is as charming as the view from the Palace situated right above. Those cafés sell tea by teapot (which equals to well over 5 glasses of tea), and a teapot of tea costs 6 TL, or 8 TL for two persons for which you will get a slightly bigger teapot (note that while tea in each teapot is enough for two persons, they only serve one glass if you order one-person-teapots which cost 6 TL). On your way to the cafés, don't forget to check out the Column of the Goths (Gotlar Sütunu), a Corinthian-style marble pillar dating back to Roman times, located just behind the entrances of cafés. It was erected in honour of victory over Goths of either Claudius II Gothicus (r. 268-270) or Constantine the Great (r. 306-337), and it likely is the oldest artifact dating back to Roman era that is still intact in the city and possibly predates foundation of Constantinople, with some badly deformed Latin inscriptions on its pedestal. Also near the café is the ruins of a monastery dating back to Byzantine times. The park has two gates, one near Sultanahmet (on the street between Sultanahmet Sq and Sirkeci, the street on which tram runs), and the other on the avenue lying on the coastline. To get to Sirkeci/Eminönü from the latter, turn left after exiting the park. Free.

- Soğukçeşme Street (Soğukçeşme Sokağı), (between Hagia Sophia, Topkapı Palace, and the gate of Gülhane Park). A car-free downhill cobbled street just behind Hagia Sophia, with renovated (or totally re-built) traditional wooden houses two- or three-storeys tall typical of Ottoman era, leaning against the outer wall of Topkapı Palace grounds/Gülhane Park. Worth a look to see what typical streetscape of Istanbul was like before the concrete came over. While around there, don't forget to check out Fountain of Sultan Ahmed III, at the square in front of the outer gate of Topkapı Palace, a huge standalone fountain building built in typical Ottoman rococo style in 1728.

Elsewhere
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- Chora Church (Kariye Müzesi), Edirnekapı (near the city walls; bus: #87 from Taksim), +90 212 631-92-41 (fax: +90 212 621-34-35), [6]. Th-Tu 9AM-4:30PM. Also known as the Church of St Saviour in Chora (chora translates "countryside" in Byzantine Greek, which refers to what the site of the church exactly was when it was built), this is 1000 year old Byzantine church, an example of a church somewhat out of the traditional center, but is an absolute must see with precious mosaic frescoes and a captivating mood inside. The early church frescoes had been covered with plaster for nearly 500 years, as the building had been converted into a mosque, but were uncovered in the mid-twentieth century and have been partially restored. Mindblowing frescoes and mosaics now cover the entire inside of this church. An impressive section of Theodosian walls is right next to the church. 15 TL.

- Patriarchate of Constantinople (Fener Rum Patrikhanesi), Sadrazam Ali Paşa Caddesi, Fener (between S. Ali Paşa Cd. and İncebel Sokağı; northwest of old city, close to Golden Horn shore), +90 212 531-96-70 (patriarchate@ec-patr.org, fax: +90 212 534-90-37), [7]. 8.30AM-4PM. Arguably the centre of World Orthodoxy, housed since 1586 in Church of St George (Greek: Agíou Geōrgíou, Turkish: Aya Yorgi), which is, despite its religious importance, an otherwise unremarkable and unimpressive building from outside, though its lavishly decorated interior is worth a look. While you are around, don't forget to check out the Phanar Greek College (Fener Rum Lisesi) just next to the St George, which has an imposing tower made of red brick which seems to appear straight out of medieval times.

- St Stephen Church (Sveti Stefan Kilisesi), Fener (on the southern shore of the Horn; close to waterfront, on the main avenue). A Bulgarian Orthodox church better known as Demir Kilise, i.e. "Iron Church", St Stephen is totally made of cast iron, a product of 19th century experimentation with prefabricated iron churches. This building combining neo-Gothic and neo-Baroque influences, has a richly ornamented exterior.

- Süleymaniye Mosque (Süleymaniye Camii; about 15-20 min walk away from Beyazıt tram stop/Grand Bazaar, also same distance away from Eminönü, but you should walk uphill from there). On the top of a hill overlooking Golden Horn is a work of Sinan, an Ottoman architect of the 16th century. The mosque is a fine example of Ottoman architecture of the era, and inspired the architects of the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet) which was built later. Comparing these two mosques, Süleymaniye is noted for its gloomier and more atmospheric feeling. Next to the courtyard of the mosque are tombs of Sinan himself, Sultan Suleiman the Magnicifent, and his Ukrainian spouse, Roxelana (known as Hürrem Sultan in Turkish). Free admission (both the mosque building itself and tombs in the courtyard). As of June 2010, the mosque is under construction with very little of the interior available to see. Currently, best seen from a distance.

- Valens Aqueduct (Bozdoğan Kemeri), (over Atatürk Boulevard, north of Aksaray, south of Unkapanı). A double-storey Roman one built during the reign of Valens (r. 364-378) to provide the city with fresh water coming from the surrounding forests, this 921-metre long aqueduct spans the valley occupied by what is now Atatürk Boulevard (Atatürk Bulvarı), which lies in the very middle of the peninsula, connecting Aksaray with Unkapanı on the bank of Golden Horn and then Taksim Square, behind the opposite shore of Golden Horn. The aqueduct is one of the symbols of the city and it will likely welcome you to the city on your way from airport to hotel if you are going to stay around Taksim/Beyoğlu.

- Yedikule Fortress (Yedikule Hisarı), (suburban train: Yedikule). This fortress in the very southwest of old city, next to the city walls was Porta Aurea, i.e. "Golden Gate" of Roman times, when it was main ceremonial entrance into the capital, used especially for the occasions of a triumphal entry of an emperor into the capital on the occasion of military victories. During Ottoman era, a fortress was built next to it ("the Fortress of Seven Towers", direct translation of its current Turkish name) and during late Ottoman period, it served as a state prison for high-level detainees like ambassadors or pashas.

- Zeyrek Mosque (Turkish: Zeyrek Camii, also Molla Zeyrek Camii), Sinanağa Mah. İbadethane Sokak, Zeyrek (west of Atatürk Bulvarı/Unkapanı). Located in the neighbourhood of Zeyrek close to Fatih, Zeyrek Mosque is made by joining two former churches and a chapel all located next to each other. It represents the most typical example of architecture of the Byzantine middle period and is, after Hagia Sophia, the second largest religious edifice built by the Byzantines still extant in Istanbul. A really picturesque place, so prepare your camera! One word of caution, it is located in a somewhat rough neighbourhood, so better visited when there is still daylight. Free.

- Old City Walls. The old city walls, which were built during the reign of Byzantine emperor Theodosius II (r. 408–450), and enclosing entire western boundary of the peninsula from Golden Horn to the coast of the Sea of Marmara, are mostly intact although partially dilapidated, suffering from unsightly restorations of early 1990s, and occasionally pierced by wide avenues into the old city. For a complete and detailed walking route along the walls, see "Theodosian Walls Walk" section of main Istanbul article. Those too lazy to do the entire route may check out easily accessible sections around Chora Church, Pazartekke station of T1 tram line, or Yedikule Fortress.

Do
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- Walk Along the Golden Horn Poke around forgotten corners just over this hauntingly beautiful inlet from the Bosphorus. You make some thrilling - and chilling - "finds" on cobbled streets as you trace its narrow alleyways and ancient squares. The Greek Orthodox Patriarchate housing a column which is believed to have been used for the binding and flogging of criminals in Jerusalem is here. The magnificent Neo-Gothic, Neo Baroque -well literally hand made doll house -St.Stephens Church is located on the western shores. The cascading domes and four slender minarets of the Imperial Suleymaniye Mosque dominating the skyline. One of Istanbul’s surviving mediaeval synagogues...and trendiest houses in town that are now enjoying their second or even third type of use. Highlight is the famous Chora the Byzantine marvel of mosaics and frescoes.

Hamams
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Most of Istanbul's historical Turkish baths (hamam), quite an inevitable part of any Istanbul experience, are located in Old City, around Sultanahmet.

- Sifa Turkish Bath (Tarihi Şifa Hamamı), +90 212 638 38 49. Established 1777, this is one of the cheaper options. It is entirely marble throughout and the fittings might well be the originals. It has a mixed or separate female sections. Enjoy a good scrub and clean, a massage and an apple tea which is all included in the general service. The staff's English is limited. 50 TL for a scrub and massage, 80 TL for scrub, massage, and an oil massage. Sifa Hamami Sokak No. 24, Sultanahmet.

- Suleymaniye Bath, +90 212 520 34 10 [8]. Sultan Suleyman had this Hamam built by the famous Architect Sinan in 1550. Architect Sinan build this hamam for himself. He used this hamam for washing. Suleymaniye hamam is the only mixed hamam in Istanbul. There are no different sections for each sex, thus the families may comfortably enjoy this hamam together. Hamam also has two way free shuttle services for the hotel guests if the booking comes through their reception. Entry €31.50.

- Cağaloğlu Bath, +90 212 522 24 24 [9]. The Cağaloğlu hamam was constructed in 1741 and is the last hamam to be built after a long period during the Ottoman Empire. It was constructed in İstanbul Eminönü. It is three blocks from the Hagia Sophia. It has separated sections. Popular and normally visited by tourists. You can get a "service" which mean one of the staff helps you get scrubbing, and the most expensive option contain scrubbing AND massage. The payment is done befor, but if choose not to take massage, don’t be surprise if one of the stuff member will secretly offer you one, letting you deicide how much to add to his tip. It should be said that the atmosphere is very touristic, and everything has a price. Self-service €20, scrubbing €23, massage €30, self-service, scrubbing, and massage €40, and luxury service €45. Once you are done, they give you a souvenir; a pair of underwear and a comb. Does not accept credit cards.

- Cemberlitas Bath, +90 212 511 25 35 [10]. The Cemberlitas Bath is on Cemberlitas Square in the midst of some of Istanbul's greatest monuments. It was also built by architect Sinan in 1584. It has 2 sections, female and male. Entry €18. (39 TL for self-service, 59 for Turkish massage, 99 for Turkish massage and oil massage).

- Sultanahmet Hamami, +90 212 513 72 04 [11] Every day from 07:00 to 24:00 (so you shouldn't come later than 22:30). few steps from Sultanahmet tram station, the place is very much close to the main attractions at Sultanahmet. Of course many of the visitors are tourist, however it isn’t feeling too commercialize as the Cağaloğlu Bath one (e.g. No souvenirs are given, no tourist shop). There's a women section, and mixed section. The place is nice, the hosting is kind, and the whole experience is fun. But, if you're looking for a strong, thorough and long massage – you might find that disappointing. Prices: 40 TL for hamam only, 50 for hamam and massage (which is done by mean staff member in the hamam room), and 60 for the "full program" (oil massage, on top of the others). The tip can be given in one box by the doors, which reduce some of the "trading" filling. [12]

Buy
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Istanbul's historical bazaars are located in Old City.

- Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı). [13]. Istanbul's grand old bazaar with an estimated 4400 shops lined along covered walkways. It is said to be the world's oldest shopping mall, covers several blocks and features a labyrinth of side streets to keep you lost for the better part of a day. The shops are organized around their wares, e.g. the silver jewelers are clustered together, the carpet shops are clustered elsewhere and the shoe shops are bunched together somewhere else. Parts of it now are rather touristy (most locals don't shop there) and you're likely to pay a little more for your purchase than elsewhere but with the vast selection you'll find what you're looking for and it's one of Istanbul's character pieces.

- Polisajci Brothers Antique Show, 37-39 Yaglikcilar Sokak, Ic Cebeci Han, +90 212 5261831. You will find Ottoman and other antique metal ware - copper bowls, jugs, pots and the like - once used in hammams and kitchens.

- Derviş, 33-35 Keseciler Sokak, +90 212 514 4525 [14]. Turko-Californian spa shop with raw silk and cotton clothing made to last a long time.

- Chalabi, 6 Sandal Bedesten Sokak, +90 212 5228171. Grand Bazaars’ oldest family-run antiques dealer offers Ottoman silver, furniture and jewelry from old Ottoman families, and other oriental treasures.

- Deli Kızın Yeri, 82 Halıcılar Çarşısı, +90 212 526 1251 [15]. Deli Kızın Yeri (The Crazy Lady's Place) was founded by The Crazy Lady herself, an American who has retired in Turkey, who specializes in creating flat, useful, packable items using traditional Turkish motifs, handicrafts and fabrics. Items produced by local artists suiting the flavor of the shop comprise the rest of their inventory. The selection of items changes constantly, but generally includes items such as placemats, tablecloths, purses, doorstops, plastic bag holders, napkin rings, tea cozies, Turkish-flavored teddy bears and dolls, luggage tags, aprons, pillows, and limited edition clothing.

- Deli Kızın Yeri Junior, 42 Halıcılar Çarşısı, +90 224 757 4229. The Grand Bazaar's first and only children's store, filled with Turkish inspired toys and games for kids of all ages. Your kids will love it!

- Can Antik (Art and Antiques), Cadircilar Caddesi Lutfullah Sokak no 34/36, Beyazit (in the Grand Bazaar), +90 212 512-58-28, [16]. You will find Ottoman and other antique metalware here - copper bowls, jugs, pots Ottoman silver, furniture jevelry and big colection antique textile dating back to Ottoman era.

- Egyptian Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı, also known as Spice Bazaar) in Eminönü is also a covered bazaar, which is a lot smaller than Grand Bazaar, and as its name implies, houses herbalist and spice shops.

- Rugs and kilims

- Mevlana Rug Store, Torun sok. 1, Sultanahmet, +90 212 5171260 (fax:+90 212 5177476) [17]. Mevlana Rug store is the only store which is recommended by The New York Times.

- Bazaar 55 Rug House, Akbiyik Cad. 55, Sultanahmet, +90 212 6382289 [18]. The carpet shop known to be most trust-worthy.

- Mehmet Cetinkaya Gallery, Kucuk Ayasofya Caddesi, 7 Tavukhane Sokak, +90 212 5176808 [19]. Glorious museum-quality textiles, a feast for the eyes.

- Best Carpet Gallery, Binbirdirek Caddesi No. 3/36 , +90 535 722 01 75 [20]. buy online Rugs and Kilims.

- Chalcedony. A semi-precious gemstone named after the near-by town of Chalcedon.

- Chalcedony, 2 Ayasofya Caferiye Sokak, +90 212 5276376 [21]. One stop shop for raw rocks, smooth stones and finished jewelry of the pale-blue, semiprecious chalcedony.

- You can buy tourist-kitsch souveniors all around the city. A magnet with coloured picture of Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia will cost 2 TL each.

- Haggling over the price is the norm when shopping. Shopkeepers usually let you offer a price lower than the retail price; once a price agreeable to both is met, then the sale can be finalized.

- Certain stalls selling tourist-kitsch souveniors near tourist areas (e.g. Aya Sofya, Topkapi Palace) might have staff that are rude/uncouth and make jokes' at tourists' expense during a sale. An example is the tourist-kitsch souvenior shop nearest the exit of Topkapi Palace, where the young sales staff there have been observed on several occasions to be rude and make jokes at the expense of foreign tourists.

- It is therefore advisable to buy from older traders, as they are more friendly and more respectful of tourists.

Mall
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- Historia, Vatan Caddesi (Adnan Menderes Bulv.) 2, Fatih (roughly at the midway between 'Aksaray' and 'Emniyet-Fatih' stations of M1 metro line; public bus stop 'İskenderpaşa' is right in front of the place), +90 212 532-02-02 (info@historia.com.tr, fax: +90 212 531-10-10), [22]. Recently opened Historia is the only shopping mall in Old City (and likely will be the only one, as large-scale new development is restricted in most of this part of the city), and is the place to go if you are looking into something more modern and less touristy than Covered Bazaar. Usual selections of garment, electronics, and furniture stores, a large supermarket, as well as a bowling alley, fast food joints, and movie theater. While there, you may also want to check out Fenari İsa Mosque just next to Historia (across the narrow alley at the side of the mall), which is a small red-brick Byzantine church from early era, which was renovated in 1970s and now serves as a mosque after staying derelict since a fire damaged the building in 1918.

Eat
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Budget
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Prices have gone up and it is quite difficult to eat under TL10 now (Dec 2010), especially in the area around Sultanahmet Square. Restaurants and Kebab places in Sultanahmet are mainly destined to tourists with prices much higher than in places such as Taksim for instance. A kebab can cost from TL1.50 to TL5, TL8, TL10 and higher. For a good price and nice atmosphere, there is a local restaurant with no pretension at all in a small street near the Blue Mosque. For budget meals as well, it is advisable to avoid the restaurants along the tram line in the same area, although there are some really nice places there where a lunch can cost TL20 and they offer water-pipes and boardgames.

- Vivaldi Restaurant, Mustafa Kemalpasa Cad. No 52/A, Yenikapi (Take a tram to Laleli - buy some leather shoes/bags! - and then stroll down towards the water on Ataturk Blv/Mustafa Kemal Cad. Look for the Efes Beer umbrellas), (0212) 458 68 27. Definitely try the bitter wrap or mixed pide. Friendly staff who will insist on giving you free Turkish tea in this quiet little cafe situated in a non-tourist-trap area. meals under YTL 10.

- Doy-Doy Restaurant, Sifa Hamamı Sokak No: 13, Sultanahmet, (0212) 517 15 88. An unassuming cafe spread out over three floors and a roof terrace with views over the Marmara Sea and the Blue Mosque. A bit of a hidden gem, and well worth the visit. Often recommended by locals and reviewed by Fodors. Serves a menu of simple kebabs, chicken and lamb stews, and pide (Turkish pizza) baked in a wood-burning oven. A variety of mezes are also available. Lunch specials include bean or lentil soup. Soups, meatless pizzas, veggie kebabs and salad are great options for vegetarians. Friendly service. Cheap. Open late. meals under YTL 10.

- Hayat Cafe, Corner of Akbıyık Cad. and Mehmet Ağa Cad., Sultanahmet, Istanbul. This unassuming hole-in-the-wall cafe might not look like much. In fact, the entire cafe is outside under a covered roof. Though due to popularity, most of the seats are spilling over to the sidewalk and street, and with good reason. While the beer is cold and cheap, it isn't much to speak of. But the food is exceptional (a gem among the other restaurants in the area). A nice mix of mezes (small plates), salads and kebabs. A good selection for vegetarians. Cheap. Open late. Friendly staff. Accepts Euros and Turkish currency. about YTL 10.

- Meshur Köfteci (Selim Usta), near the Sultanahmet tram stop (150 meters downhill). Three floor restaurant. Meshur means famous, and they rightly claim that title. Their specialty is meatballs (in a slightly different form, called köfte). Take it with a piyaz (beans salad) and ayran. Service is very swift and attentive, prices ordinary.

- Karadeniz Aile Pide ve Kebap Salonu, Divanyolu Cad. Hacı Tahsinbey Sok. Sultanahmet (about five meters down a side street just a bit west from the Sultanahmet tram stop), +90 212 528 62 90, [23]. Their specialty is pide, and at this they excel. Prices are ordinary for a quality pide place. Friendly staff. around 10-15 TL for mains, 4 TL soup/salad, complementary Turkish tea.

- Lale Restaurant, or the legendary Pudding Shop [24] as known by Hippies of 60’s, is still open but without its former glory and crowd. In Sultanahmet, very near the tram station.

- Full-screen Galata Bridge Fish Sandwiches, Galata Bridge (Lower Level). Balik ekmek! That's what you listen out for when you're heading down to the lower level of the Bridge on the Eminonu side. Once a raucous tradition for the local fishermen to sell their 'fish in bread' straight of the side of the boat—occupational health and safety policy banned the popular trade, though you can still find the delicious morsels here! Wash it down with a fresh pickle juice..

- Tarihi Subaşı Lokantası, Çarşıkapı, Nuruosmaniye Cad. No:48-2 (close to 'Nuruosmaniye' gate of Grand Bazaar), +90 212 522-47-62 (fax: +90 212 511-62-19), [25]. Traditional Ottoman/Turkish cuisine. A must go place.

Mid-range
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- Rumeli Cafe a.k.a Mozaik Cafe, Ticarethane Sokak No:8 (near Divanyolu Caddesi, about one block from the Basilica Cistern), 212 512 00 08. On a relatively quiet street but close to all the attractions of Sultanamet. Serves mostly traditional Ottoman and Turkish dishes, with lots of lamb on the menu. Staff are friendly and there are tables both indoors and on the sidewalk. 35-55 YTL per person (main, appetizer + one drink).

- Green Corner. Nice, lovely little open-air café just down the road from the Basilica Cistern. Eat a gözleme whilst lying down and smoking a Turkish pipe.

Splurge
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- The Four Seasons Hotel, Tevkifhane Sokak No. 1, Sultanahmet-Eminönü, 90 (212) 638 82 00 [26]. The Four Seasons does a spectacular, but pricey, Sunday brunch featuring a range of Turkish and international dishes (January 2005 price - 70 YTL, 11.30AM-3PM).

- Asitane [27], at Edirnekapi. Asitane specializes in traditional Ottoman cuisine, based on meticulously researched recipes used in the royal palaces of the Ottoman empire. The main theme of these recipes are unique blends of meats and fruits. In spite of the traditional nature of the menu, the restaurant decor would not be out of place in London or New York. Pay special attention to the lamb dishes.

Drink
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- Cheers, Akbiyik Caddesi 20, in Sultanahmet, +90 5324096359. Daily, 10AM-2AM. Offers the cheapest beers in town to a crowd of travellers.

- The restaurants located on the lower level of the Galata Bridge which connects Old City with Galata also double as beerhouses even if you have no intention of having something to eat. Open-air parts of these restaurants beside the bridge railings offer a beautiful view of the mosque domes and towers and the Topkapı Palace dominating the Old City's skyline.

Cafés
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For something more typical, check out these cafés:

- Cagaloglu Hamami Café, Prof. K.I. Gurkan Caddesi, Cagaloglu. A café located in a former hammam, dating 1741, where you can listen to live traditional Turkish music.

- Sark Kahvesi', Yaglikcilar Caddesi 134 (in the Grand Bazaar) [28]. The most famous cafe in the market and a time warp into days gone by, full of traders playing backgammon. Turkish coffee NTL 1.5.

Sleep
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Accomodation in the peninsula is mostly around Sultanahmet. Cankurtaran, a neighbourhood just south of Sultanahmet Square towards the coast of the Sea of Marmara, is one of the places where hotels/hostels cluster most.

Budget
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- Serenity Hotel Istanbul, Kucukayasofya Mahallesi Kasaposman Sokak No:27 Sultanahmet (Just next to Blue Mosque), +90 212 638 2802 (info@serenityhotelistanbul.com, fax: +90 212 638 2804), [29]. Breakfast and all the taxes included in price. Rooms include air-con, TV, laundry, free wireless connection and internet. Starts at €40/60 for singles/doubles.

- Big Orange Hotel, Akbıyık Değirmen Street No: 3 Sultanahmet, +90 212 518-10-61 (info@bigorangehotel.com, fax: +90 212 518-10-62), [30]. Breakfast included, linen included; luggage storrage, wi-fi in the lobby, free internet in the rooms, air-con. No curfew, 24 hour check in, airport pick up available. Starts at €30 for a single room; credit cards accepted.

- Olimpiyat Hotel, Ebusuud Caddesi Erdogan Sokak no: 6 (Just next to Topkapi Palace), +90 212 511 96 59 (info@olimpiyathotel.com, fax: +90 511 99 16), [31]. Breakfast and all the taxes included in price and free airport transfer offered. Rooms include air-con, TV and minibar, laundry, free wireless connection and internet. Starts at €40/50 for singles/doubles in high season.

- Star Holiday Hotel, Divanyolu Street No:10 Sultanahmet (right in front of the Blue Mosque), +90 212 512 29 61 (info@hotelstarholiday.com, fax: +90 212 512 31 54), [32]. Breakfast on a nice terrace (right in front of the Blue Mosque) is included in the price at this standard hotel. Rooms include air-con, TV and minibar. Starts at €40/50 for singles/doubles in high season.

- Deniz Konak Hotel, Küçük Ayasofya Caddesi No:14 Sultanahmet, +90 212 518 95 95 (info@denizkonakhotel.com), [33]. Rooms with own bathroom, wireless internet access, cable TV, possibly sea view with balcony, minibar, free breakfast, 24 h reception, air-conditioning, terrace, laundry service. Double room 50 USD in high season (other rooms available as well) as of 09/2009.

- Istanbul Holiday Hotel, Küçük Ayasofya Caddesi No:28 Sultanahmet, +90 212 512 29 61 (info@istanbulholidayhotel.com, fax: +90 212 512 31 54), [34]. Rooms with en-suite bathroom, satellite TV, and internet access. From € 30/40 for a single/double room.

- Dongyang Hotel/Hostel Istanbul, Alemdar Cad. Tramway Yolu Üzeri No: 7 Sultanahmet, +90 212 511 24 14 (info@dongyanghotelistanbul.com, fax: +90 212 528 95 33), [35]. Rooms with en-suite bathroom, satellite TV, and internet access. From € 10 for dorm rooms, from €40 for double rooms.

- Stone Hotel Istanbul, Binbirdirek Mah.Sehit Mehmet pasa yokusu Sk.No 34 Sultanahmet, +90 212 638 1554 (info@stonehotelistanbul.com, fax: +90 212 517 6330), [36]. Rooms with en-suite bathroom, satellite TV, and internet access. From € 45/55 for a single/double room.

- Hotel Petrol Palace, Divanyolu cad. Dr.Emin Pasa sok. No:4, Sultanahmet, +90 212 511 53 33 - 34 (info@hotelpetrol.com, fax: +90 212 522 31 50), [37]. Hotel Petrol Palace is housed in a hundred-year-old neoclassical Turkish house. Smoking and no smoking rooms are available. € 49/59/77 for single/double/triple rooms. Cheaper Nov-Mar.

- Hotel Alp Guesthouse, Akbiyik street, adliye small street, Sultanahmet, +90 212 517 7067 (info@alpguesthouse.com), [38]. All the rooms have ensuite bathroom, TV, wired/wireless free internet connection, mini-bar, safe box. There is open buffet breakfast service on the terrace which has marmara sea and asian continent view. breakfast is included to room rates. Single 35/55 Euro, double 55/70 Euro, triple 65/80 Euro, Family room 80-100 Euro.

- Grand Anka Hotel, +90 212 635 20 20 (info@grandankahotel.com, fax: +90 212 534 18 55), [39]. Istanbul Hotel Grand Anka Serves with hospitality, greetingly respectfully from 1996.

- Tulip Guesthouse, Akbiyik cad. Terbiyik Sokak No:15/2, Sultanahmet, +90 212 517 65 09 (info@tulipguesthouse.com), [40]. Very friendly and helpful staff, two guys both university educated, intelligent, well acknowledged about Turkish history and Middle East politics, always eager to let you know about Istanbul's cultural events and highlights. Kitchen has a great view to Marmara with free coffee and Turkish tea. Dorm beds €10, en-suite rooms from €45.

- Hostel Orient, Yeni Akbiyik Cad 13, Sultanahmet, +90 212 517 9493 (fax: +90 212 518 3894, info@orienthostel.com), [41]. Okay hostel in a good location in Sultanahmet. Staff are friendly and willing to help. Cafe/bar upstairs, rooftop lounge area overlooking the Golden Horn, Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and the oldest mosque in Istanbul (it's small and has one minaret, just go down the street towards Topkapi). Pretty cheap rooms, but the travel agency downstairs is overpriced, as is the beer in the bar. Belly dancers two or three nights per week in the basement bar, but expect competition for her affections from older local businessmen. 18/20 YTL for 8 bed/4 bed dorm rooms, private rooms 40-70 YTL.

- Istanbul Hostel, 35 Kutklu Gun Sokak, Sultanahmet (Next to Blue Mosque and Four Season Hotel), +90 212 516 93 80, [42]. checkin: 11am; checkout: 10-11am. Six and eight bed dorms, street-level tables, rooftop restaurant and lounge area with amazing views and mediocre food, basement bar/cafeteria/patio, where free Turkish breakfast is served every day. Free wireless and free internet at two aging computers in the lobby. Staff are very helpful and friendly. Staff can arrange transport to and from the airport, and the hostel has a travel agency which can set you up with other hostels and trips in the country. Atmosphere is good. Downstairs rooms may be noisy; the upstairs rooms share a single (working) shower in an unventilated restroom. dorms 20 YTL.

- Istanbul Hostel Sinbad, Kucuk Ayasofya Mh., Demirci Resit Sokak, Sultanahmet [43]. Offers budget accommodations for backpackers. They offer discounts for students and hostels' card holders, together with some other amenities as free breakfast. Sinbad has a total 22 rooms - 92 beds. Dorm rooms have six beds, only female dorm, single, double, triple, quad rooms are available.

- Bahaus Guesthouse, Bayramfirin Sokak No:11, Sultanahmet, +90 212 638 65 34 (fax: +90 212 517 66 97). Friendly staff with lots of useful objective information to share. Dorm room around €12 including breakfast. Rooftop bar beer 5 YTL (can't bring anything except water to hostel). Free internet.

- Mavi Guesthouse, Kutlugün Sokak No:3, Sultanahmet, +90 212 517 72 87 (fax: +90 212 516 58 78, mavipans@hotmail.com) [44]. Breakfast is included in the price and this guesthouse is close to the Four Seasons Hotel and many other backpackers. Staff can arrange transport to and from airport (approx 12 YTL). Internet is available for a nominal fee or free with wireless LAN Laptop. Small (cosy) TV room etc. €10/11 for 6 bed/4 bed dorm rooms, private rooms for €20-33.

- Yeni Otel, at a side street 100 m from Sirkeci station. Go towards Sultanahmet and turn into the first street on the left. Shared basic bathrooms, hot water. Manager is friendly but has a limited knowledge of English. 50 TL for a basic double.

- Mavi Onur Hotel, Küçük Ayasofya Mahallesi, Aksakal Sokak No:28, 34410 Sultanahmet, +90 212 4580690 (info@mavionurhotel.com, fax: +90 212 4580692), [45]. Small, family run guesthouse. Offering six rooms that have their own private shower, toilet, hair-drying facilities and air conditioning. The breakfast is included in the price and they have a rooftop terrace. from 11 euro for a dorm bed to 42 euro for a triple room (high season prices).

- Hotel Nomade, Divanyolu Caddesi, Ticarethane Sokak 15, Sultanahmet, +90 (212) 513 81 72 (info@hotelnomade.com, fax: +90 212 513 24 04), [46]. Rooms with en-suite bathrooms and air-con. € 80/100 for single/double rooms, breakfast included.

Mid range
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- Hotel Prince, Nobethane Caddesi Kargili Sokak 5, Sirkeci, +90 212 513 25 50 onlinesales@hotelprince.com, [47]. The breakfast is served at the roof top restaurant with a great view of Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, and the Bosphorus. Rates start at €75/100 for single/double in high season.

- Hotel Yasmak Sultan, Ebusuud caddesi no: 14 34110 Sirkeci, +90 212 528 13 43 info@hotelyasmaksultan.com , [48]. Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, Basilica Cistern and the Grand Bazaar are at your doorstep, and the City Center is within walking distance of the Yasmak Hotels which offer an array of comforts and services to render your stay a delightful experience. Yasmak Sultan, one of the oldest hotels in Istanbul, has been home-away-from-home to countless guests since 1965. This hotel offers a boutique ambience and first-class amenities in a 4 star hotel quality. Room rates and prices starts at €75/100 for single/double in high season.

- Tulip House, Katip Sinan Cami Sok. No:28 (close to Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet tram stop), ''+90'' 2124588403, [49]. Beside everything required in a mid-class hotel such as open-buffet breakfast, wi-fi, clean rooms, bathrooms etc, Tulip House has very large rooms with high ceilings and perfect sea view, try to rent a room on the sea side with balcony, for a perfect evening. In a very The guys running the place are exceptionally helpfull, espeacially Emrah who has very large akcnowledge bout Istanbul and Turkish history.

- Hotel Armagrandi Spina, Utangac Sok. 19, 34400 Sultanahmet, +90 212 638 1727 (info@hotelspina.com) [50]. Beautiful renovated boutique hotel that has excellent off-season deals (€60/night via hotels.com) and decent mid-range prices during peak season. Smaller rooms great for couples. Breakfast on terrace included, with amazing view of Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia. You may see one or both from your room window, too. Elevator, no frills minibar, free wifi, exceptional staff.

- Armada Hotel, Ahirkapi Sok. 24, 34122 Cankurtaran, Istanbul. Semimodern hotel. Free wireless. Located in Sultanamet between the sea and the Blue Mosque. Working aircon, fridge. Own bathroom. Restaurant at the top of the building with a nice view of the sea and the Blue Mosque. Price via hotels.com: 42 EUR double room.

- Sultanhan Hotel Piyerloti Caddesi No:15/17 Sultanhamet, +90 212 516 32 32 (fax: +90 212 516 59 95, info@hotelsultanhan.com), [51]. This five-floor hotel features 40 guestrooms, all of which have Ottoman-style decor with patterned fabrics and chestnut furnishings. All are equipped with internet connections, satellite television and minibars. €190/230 for single/double in high season.

- Ottoman Hotel Imperial, Caferiye Sokak No:6/1 Sultanhamet, +90 212 513 61 51, [52]. An unbeatable view of Hagia Sophia Museum and Sultanahmet Square and a blend of Ottoman and Istanbul cuisine is what you'll experience at the Ottoman Hotel Imperial. With its exquisitely furnished guest rooms reflecting the Ottoman art, trend-setting restaurants and bars, extensive guest services and in-house amenities, Ottoman Hotel Imperial responds to the needs of the most demanding leisure and business travellers. Rooms start at €100/120 for single/double in high season.

- Blue House Hotel (Mavi Ev), Dalbasti Sokak No:14, Sultanahmet, +90 212 638 90 10/11/12/13/14/15/16 (fax: +90 212 638 9017, info@bluehouse.com.tr) [53]. Opened July 1997 and located at the heart of old city center, steps away from world famous Blue Mosque. €120/140 for single/double in high season.

- Empress Zoe, Adliye Sokak No:10 (near Akbiyik Caddesi), Sultanahmet, +90 212 518 2504 (fax: +90 212 518 5699, info@emzoe.com) [54]. A wonderful little hotel in a quiet street just off Sultanahmet, with spartan but elegant rooms decorated in Turkish style and beautiful views over the Hagia Sophia from the rooftop terrace. All mod cons including bathroom, air-con, safe. Rooms from €50 and suites from €100, including breakfast.

- Ibrahim Pasha, Terzihane Sok. No. 5, Adliye Yani, Sultanahmet, +90 212 518 0394 (fax: +90 212 518 4457, contact@ibrahimpasha.com) [55]. A lovely boutique hotel just steps away from the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. The room rates include a full Turkish breakfast in the dining area off the main lobby. The hotel has a rooftop sitting area with direct views of most of the major sites in Sultanahmet - an incomparable vista as the moon rises on a clear evening. The comfortable rooms have all mod-cons, including wi fi. The staff are attentive, courteous and helpful. Highly recommended. Rooms from €125 for a standard.

- Dersaadet Hotel, Kapiağasi Sokak No:5, Sultanahmet (one block below Kucukayasofya Caddesi), +90 212 458 07 60 (fax: +90 212 518 49 18 admin@hoteldersaadet.com) [56]. Boutique hotel on a quiet street 5-10 minute walk from the Blue Mosque and Ayasofya. Rooms are decorated in 19th century Ottoman-style and come with air-con, TV, mini-bar and safe, and all guests can use the high-speed internet/Wi-Fi in the lobby. The rooftop terrace looks out over the Sea of Marmora and part of the Blue Mosque. Room rate includes breakfast. €95/105 for single/double in high season, suites are €120 - 240 depending on time of year and room (10% discount if paid in cash).

- Hotel Niles Istanbul, Dibekli Cami Sokak No:19, Beyazit, +90 212 517 32 39 (fax: +90 212 516 07 32, info@hotelniles.com) [57]. Another Ottoman mansion converted to a hotel, it is located five minutes from the Grand Bazaar. Rooms come with air-con, TV, mini-bar and Wi-Fi, and there is high-speed internet in the lobby. Complimentary breakfast is served in the rooftop terrace, which overlooks the Sea of Marmora. €55/65 for single/double in high season (10% discount if paid in cash).

- Hotel Inter Istanbul (Budget rates on mid-range facilities), Mithatpasa Cad. Buyuk Haydar Efendi Sok. No: 29 Beyazit, (+90 212) 518 35 35 (Fax: (+90 212) 518 35 38, info@hotelinteristanbul.com) [58]. Away from the crowd and touts of Sultanahmet yet within walking distance (approx. 7-10 minutes). Located on a quiet street stone-throw away from the Grand Bazaar, Beyazit tram station and buses that goes to Taksim and other parts of Istanbul (2-minute walk). Modern-style rooms, comfy beds, TV with English programs and news, wi fi connection in rooms and a free PC use at the lobby, helpful staff that make-up rooms and replaces towels daily. €35/40 single, €45/50 double, €55-60 triple, €65-80 family (winter/summer) inclusive of breakfast. 10% discount on cash payments and free airport-hotel pick-up (min. 3 days stay).

- Yigitalp Hotel Istanbul (Budget rates), Gençtürk Cad. Çukur Çeşme Sok. No: 38 Şehzadebaşi, (+90 212) 512 98 60 (Fax: (+90 212) 512 20 72, sales@yigitalp.com) [59]. Rooms with en-suite bathrooms, air-con, satellite TV, and free internet access. From € 55/65/90 for single/double/triple rooms.

- Erguvan Hotel Istanbul, Aksakal Cad. No:3 Sultanahmet, +90 212 4582784 (info@erguvanhotel.com) [60]. Rooms with air-con, satellite TV.

- Eski Konak Hotel Istanbul, Cankurtaran Mahallesi Akbiyik Cad. No:44, Sultanahmet, +90 212 458 74 23 (info@eskikonakhotel.com) [61]. In the heart of historical Sultanahmet, one of Istanbul's newest hotels. Just a short walk to Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the Grand Bazaar. Friendly multilingual staff. 9 rooms.

- Hotel Med Cezir, Tevkifhane Sok. No: 6 Sultanahmet, +90 212 517 59 35 (info@hotelmedcezir.net) [62]. Small hotel and restaurant located right beside the Four Seasons Hotel. Comfortable and well appointed guest rooms with or without a private bathroom. Offering exceptional views of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, the terrace bar is the perfect place for a drink in the evening. 24 hour room service is available. 10 rooms.

- Hotel Tashkonak, Kucuk Ayasofya Cad. Tomurcuk Sokak 5 Sultanahmet, (+90 212) 518 28 82 (Fax: (+90 212) 638 84 91, info@hoteltashkonak.com) [63]. This quaint hotel offers great rooms, an exceptionally friendly staff and some of the best views of the Sea of Marmara anywhere in Sultanahmet. They also have free wi-fi, TV with English channels and a complimentary breakfast buffet every morning. Prices range from €50 for a single room up to €165 for a family room. 8% discount if paying with cash and free airport pickup is available.

- Hotel Sultan Hill, Tavukhane sok. No:17-19-21 Sultanahmet, +90 212 5183293 (info@hotelsultanhill.com) [64].The hotel has been completely restored to resemble the original 18th century Ottoman house previously on the site. The panoramic view from the terrace is stunning with views of the sea and the Blue Mosque. The hotel is located within walking distance of all the major tourist attractions. There are 17 rooms, a traditional courtyard and a roof terrace bar. All rooms have air-con, mini-bar, TV, wi-fi and a safe. Room rates include breakfast. Room rates: single room 60 EUR, double 80 EUR, triple 120 EUR and family 140 EUR throughout the year.

Splurge
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- Hotel Sultania, Ebusuud caddesi Mehmet Murat Sokak No: 4 Sirkeci Sultanahmet, +90 212 528 08 06 (fax: 90 212 511 99 16), [65]. A new hotel opened in 2010 with 42 unique rooms which all the rooms are dedicated to the famous sultan wives. This is a concept hotel offering boutique hotel services and amenities. The room rates starts at 120 € as a discounted opening year rate.

- Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet, Tevkifhane Sokak No:1, Sultanahmet-Eminönü, +90 212 638 82 00 (fax: 90 212 638 82 10), [66]. A converted prison in the historic Sultanahmet district. Offers stunning views of the Haghia Sophia, but no pool. Standard rooms start around $420.

- Celal Aga Konagi Hotel at Beyazit, Sehzadebasi, Balabanaga Mah. Sehzadebasi Caddesi No:5/7, Sehzadebasi-Eminönü, +90 212 519 09 09 (fax: 90 212 514 09 09), [67]. With a free spa and pool facilities and free wireless internet, Celal Aga Konagi Hotel provides luxurious accommodation in the heart of Istanbul. 5-minute walk away and the Grand Bazaar and Blue Mosque is just a 20-minute walk away. Standard rooms start around $350.

- Hotel Prince, Nobethane Caddesi Kargili, Sok. No: 5 Sirkeci, i Istanbul Turkey, +90 (212) 513 25 50 (info@hotelprince.com, fax: +90 (212) 522 43 59), [68]. A 4 Star Hotel offering 127 modernly decorated rooms for business and leisure travellers.

- Sirkeci Konak Hotel, Taya Hatun Sokak 5, Sirkeci, +90 212 528 43 44 (info@sirkecikonak.com, fax: +90 212 528 44 55), [69]. A charming hotel which offers rooms with air-con, satellite TV, wireless internet connection.

Contact
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Internet
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All of Sultanahmet Park (between Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque) is a wifi hotspot free of charge.

There are also a couple of internet cafes along the tram line between Sultanahmet and Gülhane.

Cope
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Laundry
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- Star Laundry, Yeni Akbıyık Cad. 18, Sultanahmet, +90 212 638-23-02. Laundry service. TL 4/kg (about € 2/kg).

District Galata Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• Get around

• See

• Do

Jewish Heritage

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

Cafés

Hooka

• Sleep

Budget

Mid range

Splurge

• Stay safe

• Contact

Understand
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Galata (Turkish: Karaköy) gained its importance by the virtue of transforming into a trade colony of the Genoese and the Venetians, beside then-Byzantine Constantinople. After Ottomans captured Istanbul, the autonomous status of Galata was left untouched, except that its city walls were razed (except a few disconnected parts in the length of a few meters spotted by the archaeologists here and there). The first time Beyoğlu area (Pera in the past), which lies north of Galata, was settled is during 1850’s, when Rue Grande de Pera (“the Great Road of Pera”), today’s Istiklal Street (İstiklal Caddesi), was opened. Taksim Square (Taksim Meydanı) is even younger, it has taken its existing appearance as late as 1930s.

İstiklal Caddesi is Istanbul's prominent pedestrian street. At anytime of the day there are thousands strolling the street and a myriad of restaurants and retail offers in the side streets. This is also the original diplomatic district when Istanbul was the capital of the Ottoman Empire, so search out the various impressive embassy buildings that are now consulates since the capital moved to Ankara. The British consulate in Hamalbaşı Caddesi is worth a look.

Starting its life as a Western/Catholic (Genoese/Venetian) stronghold beside Eastern (Orthodox Byzantine/Muslim Ottoman) Constantinople, Galata has always represented ‘West’. This is quite easily visible from the neo-classical architecture of most of the area, but there is more than that: First street lighting, first underground railway (Tünel, also oldest in continental Europe), as well as first European-style theaters in Turkey were always applied in this district. The decision of Ottoman dynasty to abandon Topkapı Palace in old city for western-style Dolmabahçe Palace near Beyoğlu was a largely symbolic but important act during the last century of Ottoman Empire, when the westernizing effort had a climax.

Get in
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- Airport shuttles run by HAVAŞ [1] connect Taksim Square with Atatürk Airport (~YTL 10/person); also with less significant Sabiha Gökçen Airport situated in Asian Side (also YTL 10/person).

- Because of its very central location in the city life, it’s possible to find a direct bus from everywhere but the outermost suburbs in the city to Taksim Square. The most useful public bus lines for the travellers are:

- 61B Taksim-Beyazıt near Sultanahmet

- 96T Taksim-Atatürk Airport

- 110 Taksim-Kadıköy

- Dolmuşes also take pessengers from Beşiktaş, Bakırköy, Kadıköy and Bostancı (both in Asian Side) to Taksim.

- A metro line connects Taksim Square with districts located north.

- A modern tram line connects lower parts of this district on the shore of Bosphorus (such as Karaköy, Tophane, Fındıklı, Kabataş) with the peninsula of Old City.

- Ferries from Kadıköy across the Bosphorus moor at Karaköy.

- You can pass to Galata/Karaköy side from Eminönü via Galata Bridge on foot.

Get around
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Vintage tram

The famous vintage tram of Istiklal Street is not as ancient as it may seem. Well, the tram cars are ancient (dating back to 1920s) but its track is not. The tram service in European Side of Istanbul had come to an end in 1961, when they were replaced by buses and their tracks were surfaced upon. In 1992, the city council decided to pedestrianize Istiklal Street (after the opening of a new and wider parallel avenue- which costed the city several hundred historical buildings). After the motorized vehicles were banned from the street, its tarmac was shelled out and new tracks for ancient tram were laid down.

Totally pedestrianized (save for police cars, garbage trucks, cars belonging to consulates, and, of course, the vintage tram) Istiklal Street (İstiklal Caddesi, also variously interpreted as “Istiklal Avenue” or “Istiklal Boulevard”) is the main thoroughfare of Beyoğlu area. Istiklal Street technically connects three squares: Taksim in the north, the biggest of three, Tünel Square in the south, and Galatasaray Square in the middle, the smallest one, actually nothing more than a simple widening of the street. Total length of the street is about 2 km, and squares are located about 1 km away from each other.

The easiest way to get to Istiklal Street from Karaköy on the shore of Golden Horn is to take Tünel funicular: the second oldest urban underground railway in the world (after London’s Underground) which date back to 1875. Although the distance travelled is rather short between its sole two stations (a whopping 573 meters, which perhaps make it also the title winner for being the shortest metro line of the planet), it beats the effort one has to make to climb up the steep slope between the aforementioned locations. For its lower station, look for the sign Tünel on the side of a building just over the Galata Bridge on the western side of the street. It costs TL 1.40/person one-way and departs every 5 minutes M-Sa 7AM-10:30PM, Su 7:30AM-10:30PM.

See
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- Galata Convent of Whirling Dervishes (Galata Mevlevihanesi), Galipdede Caddesi (very near the lower end of İstiklal Caddesi; near Tünel's upper station). A dancing hall of the mystical Mevlevi order, shut down in 1925 along with all other 'reactionary' movements in Turkey. Today the building houses the Museum of Divan Literature. Note: the main hall is closed for restoration through December 2010. The best time to visit is Fridays between 5PM to 7PM when sema dervish ceremonies are staged (buy tickets in advance, as space is limited). Also check out the small graveyard next door, where the carved fez perched upon the gravestone indicates the occupant's rank in the dervish hierarchy.

- Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi), (between Karaköy/Galata and the lower end of Istiklal St), +90 212 293 81 80 (info@galatatower.net, fax: +90 212 245 21 33), [2]. It was built by the Genoese on the city walls of Galata, then a western (Genoese/Venetian) stronghold beside eastern (Byzantine/Ottoman) Constantinople. Ride an elevator to the top (20 TL), then walk the parapet for a 360 degree view of Istanbul, including the entire Sultanahmet peninsula: crowned by Topkapı Palace, the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. A beautiful spot worthy of a lot of pictures. Also houses a restaurant.

- Pera Museum (Pera Müzesi), Meşrutiyet Caddesi 65, Tepebaşı-Beyoğlu (close to Istiklal Avenue), +90 212 334-99-00 (info@peramuzesi.org.tr, fax: +90 212 245-95-11), [3]. T-S 10AM-7PM, Su noon-6PM. A private museum with a large painting collection and archaeological collections of measurement units and tools used in Asia Minor since antiquity and faiences of Kütahya. 7 TL (students 3 TL Th-T, free W).

- French Institute (Institut français d'Istanbul / Fransız Kültür Merkezi), İstiklal Caddesi 4 (the first building on your right after entering İstiklal Cd from Taksim Square), +90 212 393-81-11 (contact.istanbul@ifturquie.org, fax: +90 212 244-44-95), [4]. They have good art exhibits for free and sometimes have French films in the cinema.

- Hagia Triada Orthodox Church, Taksim Square (entry from the first side alley to left in Istiklal Avenue). Finding a quite large and still operating church on the edge of the main square of the largest city of a predominantly Muslim country may not be expected by everyone, but this is exactly the definition of the quite elaborate Hagia Triada.

- S. Antonio di Padova Catholic Church, (A few meters down the street from Galatasaray Square). Although not at the size of Hagia Sophia, this is the largest church (still used for religious activities) in Turkey. It’s directly on Istiklal St, but somewhat hidden from view by its yard portal. Masses in Italian, Turkish, and English (in different days of the week). Free.

- Cezayir Street (Cezayir Sokağı), (behind Galatasaray Lisesi, walk the downhill street from Galatasaray Square). Better known as Fransız Sokağı or La Rue Française, i.e. "French Street", is an alley of statues and geraniums hanging from windows, featuring France-themed restaurants, cafes, and pubs housed in renovated and brightly-painted neo-classical buildings. Upon its inauguration in its present form in 2005, there was a brief debate on how political correct it is to rename the street from Cezayir (Algeria) to Fransız, who fought a bitter war against Algerian independence in 1960s, which led the city council to abandon the idea of officially renaming the street.

- Crimean Memorial Church (Kırım Kilisesi), Kumbaracıbaşı Yokuşu (on one of the downhill alleys to your left when walking towards the southern end of Istiklal Avenue in Tünel Square, look for street sign). A neo-gothic anglican cathedral which would not be out of place in northwestern Europe, Crimean Memorial Church was built for the protestant community of the city by Britain in late 1800s. It was named in honour of the soldiers died in Crimean War of 1856, which was fought against Russia by the allied Ottoman and British Empires. Still open for religious purposes, its congregation today mostly consists of Anglican East Asians and Sri Lankans residing in Istanbul.

- İstanbul Modern, Meclis-i Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Sahası Antrepo No: 4, Karaköy (on the waterfront; tram: Tophane), [5]. 10AM-6PM, Thursday until 8PM, Closed Monday. A must see for anyone interested in contemporary Turkish art, this is a nice, organized museum with contemporary installations. Including a cafe with a top notch menu and view. 7 TL/3 TL students (free for all on Thursday).

Do
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Galatasaray

It's not a coincidence. Galatasaray SK [6], one of the most successful and well-known Turkish soccer teams in Europe, has its roots in this district. Don't get your eyes weary by looking for a stadium, though—they have been playing in Ali Sami Yen Stadium in Mecidiyeköy about 5 km north of this district since 1960s after their original home stadium in Taksim Square was demolished (and scheduled to relocate to Türk Telekom Arena further north in Maslak in 2011). However, after a game in which Galatasaray beats one of the big teams, it is almost certain that you will see bands of rowdy fans marching up and down Istiklal Street, celebrating their team's victory (overly) enthusiastically, and chanting rather loudly—and you will be glad to have had left your favourite t-shirt with the colours of the away team at home.

Jewish Heritage
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Since 1492 the prosperity and creativity of the Ottoman Jews rivaled that of the Golden Age of Spain. Today the Jewish community in Turkey is about 26,000 and most of them live in Istanbul.

- The bankers’ town of Galata and the Tower: A cosmopolis and a finance center with bankers and stock exchange crowned by the Tower which was built by the Genoese in the 14th century, offering a great birds-eye view of the old city.

- Neve Shalom Synagogue: The most beautiful and the largest in the city where most of the religious ceremonies like bar-mitzvahs, weddings and funerals are held.

- The Ashkenazi Synagogue: The only active Ashkenazi Synagogue open to visits and prayers.

- Jewish Museum of Turkey: Witness the past 700 years how the mixed cultures influenced each other.

Buy
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- Paristexas Concept Store, located next to the Galata Square, Sertaç Haznedaroğlu, the fashion-forward owner, stocks quirky Japanese labels and rare collections created for an Eastern market by designers such as Marc Jacobs, Vivienne Westwood and Chloé. Also check out custom-made leather bags & shoes by Turkish designer Ahmet Baytar. Buyukhendek Cad. 4/A Galata, Beyoglu Phone: +90 212 252 6161

Eat
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Budget
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- Bereket Döner, İstiklal Cad. 5 (right on Istiklal Avenue, a few metres down the street on the right from Taksim Square), +90 212 251-42-21, [7]. A quite good value restaurant featuring döner (also on the plate as opposed to the usual wrap/sandwich variety; dipped in tomato sauce to the point of swimming) and traditional Turkish cuisine. The restaurant is a self-service one, i.e., you take a tray, and order your food by pointing at the entrance, and pay at the cash register right next to the food display (take your tableware and bread at this point as you won't be served any at the table), and then take your food to a table—there are two more floors upstairs. No alcohol is served. 10-15 TL for a full meal; can be substantially cheaper if you forgo salad or appetizers.

- Fermentasyon, Küçükparmakkapı Sok. No:6 (near Taksim Square), +90 212 244 26 37. One of the nicer cafes in this street and moderately priced. Sitting at one of the tables at the street is a good option, getting one of the tables on the 1st floor at the window and overlooking the street is even better. Staff is friendly and hospitable. Enjoy a good breakfast here with the typical Turkish Menemen (omelette with cheese and tomatoes).

- A series of stalls right at the corner of Taksim Square and Istiklal Avenue are renowned for their unique heavily spicy burgers, much smaller than the American variety. While Kızılkayalar Burger [8] is the locals' favourite, as it's the oldest one and known as the "inventor" of the spicy burgers, all stalls, which are open 24-hr and serve both as a sit-in and take-out, offer basically the same stuff—döner, french fries, toasts, various cold and hot snacks, freshly squeezed juices, as well as canned soft drinks, and ayran. Spicy burgers make for a great snack after a night-long binge drinking, but keep in mind that garlic smell afterwards can be overpowering.

- On the Balıkpazarı Alley (literally "Fish Market", next to Çiçek Pasajı and opposite Galatasaray Lisesi, on about the mid-point of Istiklal Avenue), there is a number of small eateries side by side, offering delicious fried mussels (midye tava, 3.50 TL per sandwich) with a yogurt sauce, best to be washed down by a pint of beer.

Mid-range
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- Degustasyon Restaurant (Degustasyon Restaurant), Balık Pazarı Beyoğlu Taksim (Located behind Istiklal boulevard, you can find it by entering Çiçek Pasajı. On the fish market street.), +90 212 292 06 67 (info@degustasyon.com, fax: +90 212 244 57 44), [9]. 10AM-02PM. The restaurant is meyhane style, where lively conversation is the main dish on every table, next to fish and Rakı. With live Turkish music (fasıl) you will enjoy your time while drink your Rakı and eat your delicious fish. Other Alcohols are also served. 20-50 €.

- Ficcin (Fıccın), Kallavi Sok. No:13 (side street off Istiklal Avenue, opposite the S. Antonio di Padova Catholic Church—there is a branch of Starbucks and a jewellery seller on the corner), +90 212 293-37-86 (fccn@ficcin.com, fax: +90 212 252-19-30), [10]. 7AM-midnight daily. The restaurant offers an exceptional value lunch, but is also pleasantly busy at night. Several of the staff speak English and foreign tourists are welcome alongside the many locals who eat there regularly. Fıccın is unusual in being a Circassian restaurant, which also serves Turkish food. Seats are available on the street and in several rooms inside. Alcohol is also served. Around 20TL per person without wine.

- Nevizade, located behind Istiklal boulevard, you can find it by entering Çiçek Pasajı. It's one of the most famous streets in Istiklal boulevard. It's narrow, and is mostly known for its meyhane style restaurants, where lively conversation is the main dish on every table, next to fish and Rakı that is.

- Haci Abdullah, Ağa Camii, Atıf Yılmaz Cad, (Eski Sakizagaci Cad), No: 9/A, +90 212 293-85-61 / 293-08-51 (Fax: +90 212 244-32-97). One of the best Ottoman restaurants in the country. You can find very traditional foods there. No alcohol.

- Leb-i Derya. A nice cafe-restaurant with a splendid view of the Bosphorus and the Topkapi Palace in Tunel, Beyoglu.

- The House Café, Istiklal Caddesi Mısır Apt. No:163 Beyoğlu, +90 212 251-79-91 (fax: +90 212 249-79-91 ). They serve giant salads, main dishes and pizzas pleasing even to the gourmets. The menu is seasonal which allows them to use only the freshest ingredients.

- Zencefil, Kurabiye Sokak 8 (on a side street of Istiklal Avenue), +90 212 243 8234 (fax: +90 212 243 8233). M-Sa 10AM-00:30AM. A vegetarian cafe serving healthy and home-style dishes in Beyoglu. Also has a backyard. Credit cards are accepted..

Splurge
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- 360 Istanbul, Istiklal Cad. 311, Mısır Apartmanı, floor 8 (on Istiklal Avenue, next to S. Antonio Church), +90 212 251 10 42 (360istanbul@360istanbul.com, fax: +90 212 251 10 48), [11]. This gem is in the Beyoglu district on a 360 degrees rooftop, has awesome views of the city. Has a DJ and more party atmosphere late at night and quiet dinners before.

- NuTeras, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 145-147, Tepebaşı, +90 212 245 60 70. 6:30PM-4AM. For a breath-taking view of the city and a phenomenal mean, go to NuTeras, the restaurant located on top of a 17 story hotel near the Galata tower. Prices are rather steep, but certainly worth it, especially for special occasions. Credit cards are accepted.

Drink
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The liveliest part of the city is definitely Beyoglu and again the area of Istiklal Caddesi. Many clubs offer live music:

- Indigo, Akarsu Sokak 309, Galatasaray, +90 212 2451307 [12]. Live music throughout the week.

- Balans & Balans Tonique , Istiklal cad. Balo sok. 22 Beyoğlu. [13]. Live music in Balans, Experimental live music and electronic music in Blans Tonique.

- Babylon, Seyhbender Sokak 3, +90 212 2927368 [14]. Jazz and world music.

- Mojo, Buyukparmakkapi Sokak 25, +90 212 2432927. 9PM-4AM. Rock music.

- Dulcinea, Meselik Sokak 20. Mon-Sa 3PM till late. Popular bar, café, restaurant and art gallery during the week, but on Friday and Saturday it’s club night with trance and techno music.

- Jazz Café, Hasnun Galip Sokak 20. For some fine jazz, on the top level of the two-floored club there's a performance space where you can enjoy live funk/acid jazz/ blues Tuesday through Thursday.

- Biz Jazz Bar, Topcu Caddesi 18, Talimhane Taksim. 14PM-4AM. Cozy bar with live music every night.

- Riddim, near Taksim square, +90 0212 251 27 23. A complex with three floor. Rıddim live is the performance hall of complex and you can listen rock pop and alternative kinds of music. Riddim Special is the conceptual parties floor. İstanbul's best R&B-HipHop club is Rıddım R&B-HipHop (the 3rd floor).

- Atlas Axis. Great for listening to jazz, ethnic jazz, funk, trip hop or world music while enjoying your food or drink; you should visit that terrace social club on Beyoglu. Offers an amazing view of Istanbul through Galata Tower, Sultan Ahmet and Marmara Sea and lets you enjoy the quality of the food/drink together with live performances and Bosphorus scenery with low prices.

- Sal, Buyukparmakkapi Sokak 18, +90 212 243 4196. Very popular with tourists seeking a true Turkish experience. Here low coffee tables bump your knees while you sip raki and watch some rowdy musicians.

- Mektup, Imam Adnan Sokal 20. Authentic live music. But, there is restaurant, too.

- Badehane, General Yazgan Sk 5, Tünel. There is often live music. Every Wednesday, the extremely clever and famous Selim Sesler plays gypsy (turkish flavoured) music with his band. A must if you like gypsy and turkisk music.

- Haymatlos Bar, İstiklal Caddesi Rumeli Han 48 C Blok. Live music in the weekend. Rock, folk, etc. Go through the gate at the right of the mosque on Istiklal. At the end of the passage, you will find Haymatlos Bar upstairs on 2. floor.

- DoRock, İmam Adnan Sokak 10, Beyoğlu (on the right near the lower end of one of the streets to right close to Taksim Square), [15]. Open till late at night, like 3AM. One of the few still operating bars in the city playing loud heavy metal music, which used to be far plentier in 90s and early 2000s. And unlike the rest of them, this one also heavily features more extreme genres such as death and black metal, with live performances on Saturday and Sunday nights. DoRock is easily recognizable by its frequenters with their black clothes and miles of hair sitting in the sidewalk patio in front of the bar. Also one of the cheapest places to have a drink (if you can stand to loud music, that is). About 4 TL for a pint (0.5 lt) of beer.

- Bronx Pi Sahne, Terkoz Cikmazi No: 8/1 Beyoglu, +90 530 605 5094, [16]. Live performance stage. Alternative/Indie Rock. Cocktail experts.

Cafés
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- Melekler Kahvesi Ayhan Işık Sk No:36 Taksim, 212 251 31 01. Melekler Kahvesi which is a backstreet cafe is in Taksim. It is a very popular place among young people. You can play games such as Scrabble and drink Turkish coffee (6 TL). After drinking Turkish coffee, fortunetellers will look at the coffee grounds and tell your future for free.

Small streets south of Taksim Square offer a variety of cafes with more than reasonable prices. Tea can cost TL1 or TL1.50 instead of TL5 or TL6 in more touristy areas. A more authentic feel with locals spending their time there and also playing boardgames.

Hooka
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In Tophane near the waterfront are a number of well-known hooka/hubble bubble (nargile) cafes all clustered together, though the recent national ban on smoking tobacco products indoors in public places in place since summer 2009 led these cafes not to serve traditional hooka unless you are sitting on their outdoor patios. In reaction to the ban, they have "invented" some other kind of hooka which does not contain tobacco and touted as bitkisel ("herbal"), thus staying within the borders of legality for smoking inside, though those passionately in love with traditional hooka usually find it unpleasant.

Sleep
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Budget
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- BonApart - Taksim 1&2, İstiklal Cad. Kumbaracıyokuşu Sok. No: 64 Dilek Apt. Daire:2 Kat: 2 Beyoğlu – İstanbul, 00905352134081, [17]. The apartment is located on European side of Istanbul nestled in the popular district of Taksim. Commonly regarded as the epicenter of Istanbul, Taksim is the place with everything. With all the major transport links (Buses, Metro and many Taxis) available, getting around will be the least of your worries.

- Chillout Cengo Hostel, Hüseyin Ağa Mah.Atıf Yılmaz Cad.Halas Sok. No 3, 00 90 212 251 31 48, [18]. Fun hostel located close to Taksim Square. Hostel staff speak good English and the are very helpful. Prıvate rooms as well as dorms are available. Dorm rooms start around 20 Turkish Lira a night and double private rooms for 70 Lira. Inside has been newly repainted and is very artistic. There are several common rooms to relax.

- Chillout Classic Hostel, [19]. Located along Istiklal Cad. and Balyoz Sk. The positive side is that the staff speak good English, free breakfast (coffee/tea, buns) is included, free internet access (one desktop + wireless access). On the negative side, at least our room was very bare and unfinishd (perhaps 130 cm x 3 m) with bunk beds. It was quite possible to get a good night's sleep in there. Dorms and private rooms available, common toilet/shower. Room for two about 30 € / night total..

- Hostel World House, Galipdede Caddesi No:85, Beyoğlu, +90 212 293 55 20 (info@worldhouseistanbul.com) [20]. Two minutes walk from the restaurants and bars of Istiklal Street in Taksim. Nice and friendly new hostel, popular with long-term travellers. Free internet. €10/12/14 for 8/6/4 bed dorm rooms, private rooms for €35-40 in high season.

- i-House, Istiklal Caddesi Zambak Sokak No:5, Beyoğlu, +90 212 244 37 73 (info@ihouseistanbul.com), [21]. Recently renovated, very clean, and located only 3min from Taksim Square. Staff speak good English and is friendly and helpful. There is a common room and a roof terrace. It's owned and managed by the same guys as the Hostel World House. Dorm beds €8.50, en-suite double rooms €39.

- Neverland, Bogazkesen cad. No:96, Beyoğlu, +90 212 243 31 77 (hostelneverland@gmail.com), [22]. Basic hotel that has internet, kitchen, common rooms, breakfast and tea; Pets are welcome; Organised by a very friendly collective. Dorm beds(8/4) €9/12€, double (ensuite) €14 (€17), single €20.

- Rapunzel Guesthouse & Café, Bereketzade Mah. Bereketzade Camii Sk. No:3, +90 212 292-50-34 (info@rapunzelistanbul.com), [23]. Brand new hostel located right next to Galata Tower. Hostel staff speak good English and the are very helpful. Great music, valuable suggestions, wi-fi access and refreshing breakfast is for free. Twin bed rooms are 25 €/person. Dorms are 16/18€ (6 bed/4bed) per person.

- Stray Cat Hostel, Mebusan Yks 35, CIhangir, Beyoglu (Between the famous Taksim sqr and the Bosphorus), 0090 212 29 39 103, [24]. checkout: around 11. Stray Cat Hostel has Cattitude. Private or dormitory style rooms. 7 Euro.

- Sumo Cat Hostel, Lüleci Hendek Cad. Ali Hoca Ar 9, Galata, +90 212 292-78-66 (info@sumocathostel.com), [25]. checkin: 24h; checkout: 11pm. The colorful boutique hostel, surrounded by the fashion shops, hip residences, music workshops and art galleries of Galata. Private rooms & Dorms available. Very friendly atmosphere. Dorms 8€ / Private 20 €. (41.0261145211,28.9763331413)

Mid range
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- Midtown Hotel Taksim, Lamartin Cad. No. 13, 34437 Taksim (Just Located in Taksim Square), +90 212 361 6767 (fax: +90 212 361 6768), [26]. Midtown Hotel Istanbul, designed as a exceptional business hotel with a modern and innovative understanding of service, is on the Lamartin Street, in the Talimhane area of Taksim / Istanbul.in. 110. (150,1)

- Pera Rose Hotel, Mesrutiyet Caddesi No 201, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. Nice little hotel about a ten minute walk from Taksim square, close to the British consulate-general. Good value for money. Single room $80-100.

- Taksim Apartments - Vacation Rental, Topçu Cad., Asri Apt. No:8 Taksim, +90 532 271 3843 (reservations@taksimapartments.com) [27]. Located in the heart of the city, this vacation rental provides you with home comforts while enjoying the high service standards of a hotel. Apartment come with air-conditioner, TV, minibar and wireless connection. This apartment can be used as an home office during business trips to Istanbul. Daily rentals start around €150 (Euro) and can get much lower for long term stays.

- Taksim Apart, Prof. Celal Oker Sok. No: 7, Harbiye, +90 505 283 5855, (taksimapart@gmail.com) [28]. It´s a very comfortable and nice apartment hotel in Beyoglu’s city centre. We stayed in two different rooms (because we made a round trip through turkey and came back) and both were very clean and tastefully decorated. The building is in the heart of Istanbul, very close to Taksim and Beyoglu Bar destrict. By bus it is 10 minutes to Sultanahmet and 15 minutes to the old city. Prices from €15 to €70 per person per night.

- Thomas-ay Group, Siraselviler Avenue, Bakrac Street, No:22/1, Cihangir-Beyoglu / ISTANBUL, +905389204960, [29]. Serviced holiday apartments in Istanbul. Multiple apartments options for big groups. Combination of hotels and homes. Daily cleaning, airport transfers and everything that you may need.

Splurge
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- Ceylan Intercontinental, Asker Ocagi Cadessi No 1, Taksim, +90 212 368 44 44, [30]. checkin: 14:00; checkout: 12:00. The Ceylan Intercontinental Hotel brags 5-star ambiance with with the best address in the city. I can attest that the bar is very stunning in the evening (with stunning views of the Ayasofia and the Blue Mosque in the distance). The three restaurants are mediocre. €200.

- Grand Hyatt Istanbul, Taskisla Caddesi, Taksim, +90 212 368 1234 (burcu.cakir@hyattintl.com, fax: +90 212 368 1000), [31]. Formerly Hyatt Regency, the hotel is near Taksim Square and has 360 rooms and suites overlooking the city and the Bosphorus. Hotel has formal dining, outdoor pool, Turkish bath, fitness center and business center.

- Misafir Suites, Gazeteci Erol Dernek Sok. No: 1 Beyoglu, +90 212 249 89 30, [32]. Great small seven suites boutique hotel with huge modern/chic rooms in a very central location. Friendly owner who will recommend good restaurants or the coolest bar at the moment. €200.

- Pera Palace (Pera Palas), Meşrutiyet Caddesi 52, Tepebaşı-Beyoğlu, +90 212 377-40-00 (reservations@perapalace.com, fax: +90 212 377-40-77), [33]. The grand old hotel of Istanbul opened in 1892 to welcome the courteous passengers of the legendary Orient Express connecting Paris with Istanbul, Pera Palace situated on a hill overlooking the Golden Horn hosted kings, kaisers, emperors, czars, and shahs in a literal sense throughout in its history. However, most renowned guest to the date is perhaps Agatha Christie, who wrote Murder on the Orient Express in room 411. Long under renovation, the hotel has recently been re-opened with its tastefully decorated rooms. From €230, going all the way to €600 according to the room and view.

- Swissôtel Hotels & Resorts: The Bosphorus, Bayıldım Cad. No: 2 Maçka; Beşiktaş 34357, +90 212 326 8181 (istanbul@swissotel.com), [34]. checkin: 14:00; checkout: 12:00. A 5-star hotel near Taksim Square with four restaurants and two bars. €150.

- The Marmara Istanbul, Taksim Meydani Taksim Istanbul 34437 (Taksim metro station is right across the street.), 90 212 251 46 96 (Istanbul-info@themarmarahotels.com), [35]. 4 star hotel that offers chic, contemporary design and modern facilities, Marmara is something of an institution in Istanbul. Hotel contains the Tepe Lounge, which is intimate and relaxing, as well as a spa onsite, which looks clean and professional.

- Witt Istanbul Suites, Defterdar Yokusu No. 26, 34433 Cihangir, +90 212 393 7900, [36]. Ultra-modern boutique hotel with 17 designer suites. All include a kitchenette, minibar, flat screen TV, iPod dock, and free wireless internet. A Turkish breakfast buffet is served each morning. 129-329€.

- Tomtom Suites, Bogazkesen Caddesi. Tomtom Kaptan Sokak No.18 Beyoglu, +90 212 292 4949, [37]. An exceptional boutique hotel converted into high-ceilinged luxury suites from the old 1850s home of the Soeurs Gardes Malades. In a pretty, peaceful square between the Italian ambassador’s Palazzo Venezia and the Palais de France, in a quarter of Beyoğlu named after a captain in the Ottoman navy ( Tomtom Kaptan )

Stay safe
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Generally, it is safe to walk around in this district, even by night, though crossing the Tarlabaşı Boulevard (Tarlabaşı Bulvarı) towards the dilapidated quarter of Tarlabaşı to the west of Beyoğlu/Istiklal Avenue wouldn't certainly be wise after the night falls. Some other parts of this district also have some crime issues. A rule of thumb to follow would be to look for young people around having fun, which suggests that you are more likely in an OK zone.

This part of the city is where much of the bar scams take place. These scams are explained in dedicated section of main Istanbul article in detail.

Contact
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There are some internet cafes on the side alleys of Istiklal Avenue, especially on the ones nearer Taksim Square. Look for the signs when passing by, especially for those hanging from the second or third floors of the buildings. Most cost around 1.50 TL/hour.

District New City Table of Contents

• Get in

• Get around

• See

Architecture

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

Adult entertainment

• Sleep

Budget

Mid range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
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- The fastest and most common way to reach this district is to take the metro from Taksim. There are metro station at every couple kilometres all along this part of the city.

- Buses from many places in the city has their terminus at Mecidiyeköy. Metrobüs, a bus rapid transit system plying along its right of way between western suburbs and Asian Side also passes through the district, calling at Mecidiyeköy and Zincirlikuyu stations (both of which are fairly close to the namesake metro stations).

- Dolmuşes from Beşiktaş to Nişantaşı are also available.

Get around
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The main thoroughfare of this district is Cumhuriyet Caddesi (Avenue) between Taksim Square and Mecidiyeköy in the north, passing through or near Nişantaşı and Şişli; and its extension Büyükdere Caddesi, which lies towards east and then north, passing through Levent and Maslak and eventually reaching Sarıyer on the Bosphorus bank in north. Between Taksim and Levent, a metro/subway line, which is finally extended to Maslak a few km north of Levent, lies under these streets.

See
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- Atatürk Museum (Atatürk Müzesi), Halaskargazi Caddesi 250, Şişli (on the main avenue of Şişli), +90 212 240-63-19. M-W F-Sa 9AM-4PM. The historical 3-storey house, easily recognizable among concrete apartment buildings with its pink exterior, which the founder of Turkish Republic, Kemal Atatürk rented while staying in Istanbul before setting sail to Samsun on Black Sea coast to start to Turkish War of Independence. Hosts Atatürk-related paraphernalia and photos. Free.

- Military Museum (Askeri Müze), Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Harbiye, +90 212 233-27-20 (fax: +90 212 296-86-18), [1]. W-Su 9AM-5PM. Among the exhibition of this museum are five thousand pieces from the Ottoman era through the WWII, with the most prominent piece possibly being the huge chain that the Byzantines stretched across the mouth of the Golden Horn to keep out the Sultan's navy in 1453 during the siege of Constantinople. In the yard of the museum, the Janissary Band (Mehter Takımı), world’s oldest military band gives concerts of march music in traditional uniforms each afternoon, at 3PM.

- Nişantaşı. Nişantaşı is a neighbourhood east of Şişli/northwest of Maçka Park known for its Art Nouveau apartment buildings, ground floors of many of which are occupied by upmarket restaurants, cafes, pubs, and garment stores lining the sidewalks. Nobel laureate Orhan Pamuk, well-known Turkish novelist, is a lifelong resident of the neighbourhood which formed the background of several of his novels.

- Radio Building (Radyoevi), Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Harbiye (close to Military Museum). This building dating back to 1945 houses the local radio branch of state radio and television corporation of Turkey (TRT). Not an architectural pearl for sure (although fans of 1940s' totalitarian architecture may find a thing or two on its stately exterior), its importance lies on the part it played in the political history of Turkey: It was occupied three times by the Army, in 1960, 1971, and most recently in 1980, when the local radio was decidedly the broadcast type ranging most wide and far, to announce that they had taken over the governance of the country (i.e., they have launched a coup d'etat).

Architecture
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- When you are bored of Roman/Byzantine/Ottoman architecture whatsoever, this district—especially the northern sections around Levent and Maslak—is where you want to be to run an eye over steel-and-glass skyscrapers of Istanbul. However, southern sections around Harbiye, Elmadağ, Osmanbey, Nişantaşı, Kurtuluş, and Şişli has large numbers of neo-classical and Art Nouveau buildings which date back to the turn of 20th century, making a nice contrast to northern section of New Istanbul.

Do
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Buy
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This part of the city is characterized by having a modern shopping mall every few kilometers on a straight line. Here is a list of them:

- Kanyon , most exclusive shopping mall of istanbul with a sophisticated architecture, next to Metrocity at Levent, has a conncection to Levent subway station.

- Cevahir [2], the newest one of malls in Istanbul. At Şişli. Metro: Şişli.

- Profilo [3], located a bit away from main street (about 10 min walk) at Mecidiyeköy. Metro: Mecidiyeköy.

- Akmerkez [4], at Etiler. Nearest metro station is Gayrettepe/Zincirlikuyu, the actual location of the mall is about 25-min walk or 10-min taxi ride away from that station.

- Metrocity [5]. Levent metro station has a direct exit to the mall.

Eat
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Budget
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Mid-range
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- Sultana's Dinner and 1001 Nights Show [6], in Elmadag, near Taksim, has traditional Turkish cuisine (meze, kebabs, desserts) with a show every evening of belly dancing, Turkish folklore and live music.

- Set Kebap at Nispetiye Cad. No:13 in Levent. Has a wonderful meze table and delicious Adana Kebab. The staff speaks very little English but are most anxious to be helpful.

- Kosebasi Kebap [7]. This Zagat-rated kebab joint serves traditional Turkish kebabs in modern/ upscale atmosphere. Levent is the main branch but they have 7 more locations (including 3 express versions) in Istanbul.

- Sosa. At Akmerkez Mall, Etiler. tel - +90 212 282 01 51. Fairly priced salads and wraps among others.

Splurge
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Drink
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- Aytekin Cafe, Sehit Muhtar Cad. 71 (north of Taksim Square), +90 212 361 8402. Sidewalk cafe offering hooka (nargile).

- Reassürans Pasajı in Nişantaşı houses many bars and cafés and is a good place for bar hopping on a Saturday night.

- Taps, [8]. A bar, restaurant and brewery in one. The crowd is the general Nişantaşı crowd, it also attracts a lot of expatriates.

Adult entertainment
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- The city's most reputable strip club, or gentleman's club, is Regina Revue [9], in Elmadag, near Taksim. It's not a sleazy place and has been running for nearly 30 years. Rather than a standard strip club with just a pole on the stage, Regina has many different decors and performances to music, with the girls acting out different scenarios on stage.

Sleep
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Budget
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Mid range
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- Istanbul Suites, Harbiye Çayiri Sokak No:111, Harbiye, +90 212 224 53 10, [10]. Ranging from duplex to studio apartments which are all furnished with modern appliances. It's located in the city center and is within a 5 minute walking distance to Taksim, nişantaşı and the metro. Possibility for short and long term rentals.

- Gallery Residence All-Suites Boutique Hotel, Vali Konağı Cad. Süleyman Nazik Sk. 10, Nişantaşı, +90 212 291-77-10 (info@galleryresidence.com, fax: +90 212 224-40-13), [11]. Suites with fully equipped kitchens, DVD players, and fax machines. Free wi-fi, breakfast, sauna, jacuzzi, and fitness.

- Jazz Hotel, Bahtiyar Sokak 1, Nişantaşı, +90 212 296-30-02 (jazz@jazzhotel.com.tr, fax: +90 212 296-30-09), [12]. Jazz-themed boutique hotel with 12 rooms named after famous jazz artists. Free wi-fi and breakfast.

Splurge
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- Ceylan Intercontinental Istanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad. No:1, near Taksim, +90 212 368 44 44 (fax: +90 212 368 44 99, istanbul@interconti.com.tr), [13]. Situated in the heart of the city, its fantastic location ensures all rooms have the views of the city or of the Bosphorus.

- Hilton Istanbul, Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Harbiye, +90 212 315 6000 (fax: +90 212 240 4165), [14]. Hotel offers a business center, fitness facilities, pool and Turkish baths. Rooms have high speed internet access. Basic room starts at €175, most rooms between €250-350.

- Park Hyatt Istanbul - Maçka Palas, Tesvikiye, Bronz Sokak No. 4 Sisli, + 90 212 315 1234 (istanbul.park@hyatt.com, fax: + 90 212 315 1235), [15]. A new 5 star hotel in the residential and shopping district Nisantasi. Rooms combine Art Deco style and historic Turkish decor with modern amenities: wireless internet access, DVD player and iPod docking station. The hotel is also home to a spa, swimming pool and restaurants. Emporio Armani and Gucci boutiques are located on the ground floor.

Contact
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District Bosphorus Table of Contents

• Get in

• Get around

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

• Stay safe

• Get out

Get in
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- Buses to this district depart from Kabataş tram station, Taksim Square, and Beşiktaş among others.

- Dolmuşes to Beşiktaş are available from Taksim, and Nişantaşı in European Side, and Kadıköy, and Bostancı in Asian Side.

- Ferries from Üsküdar and Kadıköy in Asian Side anchor at Beşiktaş quay.

Get around
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A wide array of public buses depart from Kabataş tram station (currently, terminus of T1 line) and head for different neighbourhoods lined along the Bosphorus, passing via Beşiktaş. All drive through the avenue which closely follows the waterfront. Line #25E makes the longest through service which takes around an hour, connecting Kabataş with the northern district of Sarıyer, leaving out only a few villages further north near the coast of Black Sea, which are accessible by connecting buses departing from Sarıyer.

See
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- Akaretler Street (Akaretler Caddesi), (just south of central Beşiktaş). Akaretler Caddesi, or officially Süleyman Seba Caddesi features upscale garment boutiques, restaurants, and sidewalk cafés housed in recently renovated late Ottoman era rowhouses initially built for the state elite, given their proximity to Dolmabahçe Palace, imperial headquarters then.

- Arnavutköy, (north of Ortaköy, south of Bebek). The neighbourhood of Arnavutköy (literally "Albanian village", paying homage to its founders in 1500s) features impressive wooden mansions that are 4 stairs tall lined at the waterfront, all bearing significant artwork on their facades.

- Dolmabahce Palace (Dolmabahçe Sarayı), Dolmabahçe Cad., Beşiktaş, +90 212 236 90 00 (fax: +90 212 236 35 77), [1]. Tu-We/Fr-Su 9AM-3PM. See the Ottoman Palace centered close to Taksim at the Dolmabahçe shore. Build on 110,000 meter square ground with 285 rooms and 43 halls where the Ottoman empire was administered in the last 150 years. Visits only in guided tours (45 min) in major spoken languages. Extra fee for Harem, the part of the palace the residents lived. 15 TL for 'Selamlık', 10 TL for 'Harem', 20 TL for both. 1 TL for students.

- Emirgan Park (Emirgan Parkı), (about 20 min on foot away from main waterfront avenue). Situated on the gentle hill overlooking the neighbourhood of Emirgan and the Bosphorus, Emirgan Park was for long the only place in the city where Istanbulites can admire the beauty of tulips. Having lost that distinction in the last decade as tulips are now everywhere, this is still a beautiful park with artificial ponds, small waterfalls, and impressive views of Bosphorus. There are also cafes with open-air sections housed in pleasant former imperial hunting manors. Squirrels are there, too, in the middle of this metropolis of 15+ million people, though you may have to look a bit deeper (or a bit upper on the branches!) to spot them. Free.

- Maçka Park (Maçka Parkı), (between Dolmabahçe Palace and that high-rise of Ritz Carlton). This is a park occupying two sides of a valley of this hilly city, with an avenue inbetween. Sides of the valley are connected to each other by a 4-person gondola lift line offering a shortcut when walking to Taksim Square as well as nice views of Bosphorus (access to northern station from Maçka Caddesi/Eytam Caddesi, every 5 minutes 8AM-8PM, 1.50 TL pp one-way), and by a wooden bridge over the bisecting avenue if you prefer to take a stroll along nice footpaths of the park. Free.

- Ortaköy, (north of Beşiktaş). A neighbourhood on the bank of Bosphorus with the Ortaköy Mosque—the baroque mosque under the Bosphorus Bridge, combination of which are one of the most iconic images of Istanbul. This artsy neighbourhood is filled with nice cafes, some of which offer kumpir—a baked potato with various fillings such as mayonnaise, ketchup, pickles, sweetcorn, sausage slices, carrots, mushrooms, Russian salad among others—which the neighbourhood is well-known for, and a perfect view crowded and fun. The way from Beşiktaş takes around 25 minutes on foot and is along an avenue shaded by huge plane trees, though the usually-heavy traffic may take some of its peacefulness away.

- Rumeli Citadel (Rumeli Hisarı), (on the waterfront, right next to the main avenue). Built in first half of 1400s, this is the large medieval castle under the Second Bosphorus Bridge. Its former name Boğazkesen (Turkish)/Laimokopia (Greek) means both "strait-blocker" and "throat-cutter" in both languages and denotes the reason of its building—to shut the supply routes from the Black Sea in the north into the slowly falling apart Byzantine Empire through the Bosphorus. Rumeli, literally "Roman land", was the name of the European half of Ottoman Empire, and as is usual with some other structures and villages along the Bosphorus, used as a prefix to differentiate Rumeli Hisarı from its counterpart in Asian Side, the much smaller Anadolu Hisarı, located just across the Bosphorus.

- Sadberk Hanım Museum (Sadberk Hanım Müzesi), Büyükdere Piyasa Caddesi 27-29, Sarıyer (on the waterfront, just south of Sarıyer), +90 212 242-38-13 (shm@mail.koc.net, fax: +90 212 242-03-65), [2]. Th-T 10AM-5PM. A private museum housed in a yalı, traditional wooden waterfront mansions that lie along the banks of Bosphorus. Exhibition includes a number of archaeological and ethnographical artifacts from the collection of Koç Family, though just seeing the interior of a yalı is worth entering.

- Sakip Sabanci Museum (Sakıp Sabancı Müzesi), Sakıp Sabancı Caddesi 42, Emirgan (Buses: 40, 40T from Taksim; 22, 22RE, 25E from Kabataş. Get off at Çınaraltı stop), +90 212 277 22 00 (muze@sabanciuniv.edu, fax: +90 212 229 49 14), [3]. Tu, Th, F, Su 10AM-6PM; W, Sa 10AM-10PM. Museum with a rich collection of calligraphy and paintings. It also hosts temporary exhibitions of works by some world-class artists such as Pablo Picasso from time to time. 10 TL (3 TL students).

Do
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- Bosphorus Cruise The best way to see the Bosphorus in all its beauty is to take a boat trip. This is the strategic waterway connecting the Black sea to the Mediterranean, and dividing Istanbul into two continents. As the boat zigzags between Asia and Europe, you can admire the old Ottoman wooden houses, 6 Ottoman palaces, 2 suspended bridges, and 2 medieval castles.

It is somewhat of a tourist trap. Oneway is 13 lira, retour 26. The standard price for one hop for locals is 1.5 lira. On sundays there are less boats. If you are not so lucky/fast to get one of the few deckseats it gets very hot inside, even hotter than in the city.

There are also daily trips from Eminönü, by 10.30AM in the morning and come back by 4.30PM in the evening. It costs 20 YTL per trip per person. There is an additional boat by 1.30PM in summer.

For travelers that don't want to bother with getting off the boat/taking the bus to take a deeper look into some of the Bosphorus neighbourhoods, there are also boats departing from Ortaköy which allow you to see waterfront from a distance up to the Second Bosphorus Bridge in the north, though they don't allow you to get off at any neighbourhood quay you like (in fact they don't stop anywhere until they get back to Ortaköy).

Buy
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Eat
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Budget
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Mid-range
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Splurge
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- Naz Turkish Cuisine, Bayıldım Cad. No:2 Maçka, Beşiktaş, +90 212 326 11 75, [4]. 11:30AM-1AM. Turkish cuisine.

- Park Fora [5]. Great seafood, located in Kuruçeşme park right on the edge of the sea, it has a very nice view of the Bosphorus and Bosphorus Bridge. The waiters know English. Prices range from 50 - 150 YTL per person.

- Divan Cevdet Paşa Caddesi No: 121, Bebek, +90 212 257 72 70 [6]. At first sight it may seem like a mere patisserie, but walk downstairs and you'll find a lovely restaurant with the waters of the Bosphorus right next to you. The food is simply first-class and the service is very good, too.

Drink
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- Kazan, Beşiktaş Caddesi 35, Beşiktaş (in downtown Beşiktaş; on the main avenue parallel to waterfront, just opposite the Naval Museum/square with the sculpture of Barbarossa Haireddin Pasha), +90 212 261-58-45, [7]. 11AM-midnight daily. A quite elegantly decorated local pub in which fans of Beşiktaş FC that could not make it to the stadium, old and young, male and female, like to watch the games on live broadcast. During summer months, they also have an open-air section just next to the sidewalk where smoking is free. Quite good value and is actually cheaper than how it looks in the first glance. 5 TL for a pint (0.5 lt) of draft beer, slightly more expensive during the nights when there is a game (about 7 TL for a pint of beer; when they also charge 20 TL pp for entry).

- Sheerwood, Kaymakçı Sokak 14, Ortaköy (close to the Ortaköy Mosque), +90 212 236 12 18. This pub/bar has extremely friendly staff service, and cheap drinks. At nights it becomes a sort of disco. Sherwood has two floors, second of which offers live music.

- Q Jazz Club, Ciragan Caddesi 84, Besiktas, +90 2122362121. 10AM-4AM. Jazz lovers cannot miss this a 17th century brick cellar style bar that caters to the whims of jazz fans.

Two of the hottest clubs of Istanbul are in Ortaköy:

- Crystal, Muallim Naci Caddesi 109, +90 212 2611988. Midnight-5AM. One of Istanbul’s biggest underground clubs: house and techno can be heard on Fridays and Saturdays, garage and jazzy house on Wednesdays.

- Reina, Muallim Naci Caddesi 10 [8]. Actually a vast playground filled with bars, restaurants and dance floors. Voted one of the best outdoors clubs in Europe.

Sleep
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Accommodation close to Bosphorus are mostly upmarket.

Budget
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Mid-range
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Splurge
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- Ciragan Palace Kempinski, Çiragan Caddesi No:32, Besiktas, +90 212 326 4646 (fax: +90 212 259 6687, reservations.ciraganpalace@kempinski.com) [9]. Located on the Bosphorus coast just south of the main square of Ortakoy, this hotel is in a residence of the last Sultan. Rooms come with air-con, TV, minibar and safety deposit box. Hotel has several restaurants and lounges, pools, jacuzzi, Turkish baths, gym and other amenities. Rooms start around $450 (USD) and can get much higher.

- Ritz-Carlton Istanbul, Suzer Plaza, Elmadag, Askerocagi Cad. No: 15, Sisli, Phone: +90 212 334 44 44 (fax: +90 212 334 44 55), [10]. Standing tall near the Bosphorus, the Ritz Carlton is located in the heart of Istanbul overlooking the Bosphorus and Dolmabahce Palace.

- W Hotel Istanbul, Suleyman Seba Cad No: 22, Akaretler, Beşiktaş, Phone: +90 212 381 2121, [11]. Just opened in April 2008, the W Hotel chain continues to impress in Istanbul with rooms and suites adorned with wi fi, flatscreen TVs, and the signature W Hotel luxuries that has made its hotels famous. Fitness center and business center onsite as well as a fine dining restaurant that tempts patrons with its decadent offerings.

- Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istanbul, Bayıldım Caddesi No:2 Maçka, Beşiktaş, +90 212 326 1100 (fax: +90 212 326 1122, istanbul@swissotel.com) [12]. Located on a hill behind the Dolmabahce Palace, the last residence of the Ottoman Sultans. Swissôtel The Bosphorus Istanbul commands panoramic views of the Bosphorus, the Asian coast and the old city of Istanbul.

Contact
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A number of standard internet cafés (i.e. which offer broadband connection, printer, and CD burner, and most likely a meager selection of canned soft drinks) can be found on the side alleys—especially on those to your left when Beşiktaş is behind you—of Barbaros Bulvarı, the large avenue going uphill from main square of Beşiktaş.

Stay safe
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There is not much safety issues in this part of the city really, at least not as much as you'd expect from a city of this size.

There are some issues to keep in mind, though:

- Some parts of pedestrian promenade at the Bosphorus side of the street in the upper (northern) sections of the district, especially between Yeniköy and Tarabya, and Tarabya and Kireçburnu, are very narrow (so narrow as not to let two pedestrians comfortably walk side by side), so watch your steps if you decide to take a stroll around there.

- While you will see some people (mostly poor children, who cannot afford to swim in swimming pools) swimming in the strait, it is discouraged and is dangerous due to strong currents and depth. (There are red colored warning signs in Turkish dotting the shores of the Bosphorus, warning swimmers that swimming is dangerous due to strong currents, even though there is no ban). Nor are there any real beaches, facilities and designated swimming areas on the Bosphorus for swimmers as a result. There is indeed a cape named Akıntıburnu (literally, "cape of current") just east of the neighborhood of Arnavutköy, in which the current is at its strongest, and is easily visible even from outside, just like the flow of a river. Besides, the water is not that clean either, however blue it may look. So, if you can't wait for hitting a Mediterranean beach, better head for beaches on the Marmara coast, outside Istanbul instead.

- You may want to steer clear of the dimly illuminated parks on the upper/northern sections of Bosphorus, especially around Kireçburnu, late at night to avoid harassment from homeless people likely abusing inhalants, who are known to stab people for whatever amount of money they can get, no matter how little. Dayhours and evenings are perfectly safe, though.

Get out
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Thanks to fairly frequent bus and minibus services from Sarıyer, some easy day-trips into the pleasant countryside along the northern edges of city is possible.

- Kilyos — village to north on the Black Sea with long sandy beaches that are crammed in summer weekends, and comfortably loose at other times, served by frequent minibuses.

- Atatürk Arboretum — close to the village of Bahçeköy to west (served by buses from elsewhere in the city as well as Sarıyer), this "living tree museum" goes breathtakingly beautiful amidst autumn mists, but with its ponds and views over the Bosphorus, is also highly scenic at other seasons, too.

District Golden Horn Table of Contents

• Understand

History

• Get in

• Get around

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

Cafés

• Sleep

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
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English name of the bay comes from its Greek counterpart, Hrison Keras (Χρυσόν Κέρας), which literally translates "Golden Horn". The "horn" part perhaps comes from the deep curve the bay has towards its end in the northwest. "Golden" part is more obscure, but possibly it's a poetic referral to reflections on the Horn's water during beautiful sunsets.

History
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Golden Horn, an estuary formed by flooding of valleys of two rivers confluenting just northwest of Eyüp by Bosphorus in prehistorical times, had always been Istanbul's primary harbour. In fact, it can be argued that Istanbul would never have existed in such a grand way if it weren't for this superb harbour (and also the superb trading route through and across Bosphorus, by the way).

In 1700s, mansions and large gardens full of tulips along the Horn, then called Sadabad, were favourite retreats of Ottoman state elite, who conducted costly parties thereabouts, which were later accused of economic destruction and the eventual dissolution of Ottoman Empire. Those years were called either Lale Devri ("Tulip Era") or Sefahat Devri ("Debauch Era") by different classes of society. Very little is left from that period physically. Then, about a century later, in 1800s, the banks of Golden Horn was where the industrial revolution first started in Ottoman Empire and up to 1980s, Golden Horn continued to be one of the industrial powerhouses of the Turkish economy, however this situation had its heavy toll on what was once "golden" Horn: the industrial effluents in addition to the untreated wastewater from rapidly expanding city's sewers caused the Horn stinking to high heaven, as much as that people were actually trying to avoid the avenues along its banks even if those routes meant a shortcut to where they are heading. Then in late 1980s, the first attempts to bring the Horn to its former glory began. Today its water is much cleaner (although not clean enough for a swim and there is still some way to go), and pleasant parks on the lots of demolished factories surround its banks. Neighbourhoods on its banks, Eyüp in special, put a special emphasis on celebrating the Ottoman roots of the area.

Get in
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- Buses depart from Eminönü for Eyüp on the southern shore of the Horn, and also for neighborhoods on the northern shore.

- Ferries from Üsküdar (Asian coast), which also call at Eminönü and Karaköy, zigzag between neighborhood quays located on both shores of the Horn.

Get around
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Pedestrianized Old Galata Bridge (Eski Galata Köprüsü), built in 1912, and once connecting Eminönü with Karaköy, is replaced with the current bridge in its former place after it suffered from a big fire in 1992 in the stores on its lower level, and towed to its present upper location on Golden Horn, between Feshane Cultural Centre (Feshane Kültür Merkezi) at the eastern entrance of Eyüp on the southern bank of the Horn and Sütlüce on the northern bank of the Horn, providing an easy link for pedestrians between sides of the Horn. However, the middle section of the bridge is sometimes towed away to provide water circulation along the Horn, so it entirely depends on your luck whether you'll be able to cross the Horn on foot on any given day.

Small ferries zigzaging between neighbourhood quays on each side of the Horn are also another way of crossing to the other side of the Horn.

There is also a chairlift line between downtown Eyüp and Pierre Loti on a hill overlooking the Horn, see below ("Drink" section) for more details.

See
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- Eyüp Mosque Complex (Eyüp Camii), Eyüp. This is the main attraction around this part of the city. The holiest Islamic shrine in the city, the complex includes, right next to the mosque, the tomb of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari (Eyüp Ensari Türbesi), the standard bearer of Prophet Mohammad, died and buried here during the first Muslim siege of Constantinople (674–678 AD). It was him the neighbourhood was named after. Muslims flock—in so huge numbers that sometimes you have to queue for a few minutes before entering the tomb—here also to see a rather uninteresting plaque made of plastic, which is purported to be Mohammad's footprint. The interior of the tomb, covered with fine tiles/faience, is nonetheless well worth a look, however. It is also interesting to see the devout Muslims leaving the place by walking backwards through its exit hallway, as not to turn their backs to al-Ansari's catafalque, though obviously no one expects everyone to quit the place in the same manner. Free.

- Around the mosque complex is cemeteries and tombs all of which date back to Ottoman period, with their distinctively decorated marble headstones. Besides, there are a number of other mosques, streets, and stores surrounding the Eyüp Complex, all pleasantly preserved, and give the visitors an idea of how Ottoman Istanbul should be looking like. Here is where all of those "boys-to-be-circumsized photos" are taken, as it’s a tradition to take the boys in their special Ottoman prince clothes to this particular mosque before the event. In the adjoining streets, you can find shops offering interesting Ottoman-style stuff like wooden toys or traditional salty cookies shaped like a ring (halka) which you cannot easily find elsewhere.

- Feshane, Eski Feshane Caddesi, Eyüp (on the waterfront, just east of downtown Eyüp; get off the bus at 'Defterdar' stop), +90 212 501-73-26 (fax: +90 212 501-73-28), [1]. Originally a factory producing fezzes (fes), Ottoman red hats made of felt, adopted in Ottoman Empire in early 1800s as a part of westernizing efforts in lieu of much more traditional turbans. However, as an irony of fate, fez itself was scrapped away in favour of outright western garments during Atatürk's reforms of 1920s and '30s as it was thought to symbolize the old, decidedly oriental regime. Today, Feshane serves as a cultural and exhibition centre, which hosts celebrations on local days, and some temporary art exhibitions. During Ramadan, it becomes some sort of playground showcasing how Ramadan was celebrated during Ottoman era, with traditional sweets and all.

- Miniaturk [2], at Sütlüce (on northern shore of the Horn). M-F 9AM-7PM and S-Su 9M-9PM. It was built in 2001 and is the first miniature park in Istanbul (the world's largest miniature park in respect to its model area). The park hosts icons of many cultures and civilizations. Models vary from the Hagia Sophia to Galata Tower, from Safranbolu Houses to the Sumela Monastry in Trabzon, from Qubbat As-Sakhrah to the ruins of Mount Nemrut. In addition, some works that have not survived into the present, such as the Temple of Artemis, the Halicarnassus Mausoleum and Ajyad Castle, were recreated. All former Ottoman Empire in one place.

- Rahmi M. Koç Industrial Museum (Sanayi Müzesi), Hasköy Caddesi 27, Hasköy (on the northern shore of the Horn), +90 212 256 71 53-54, [3]. This is a typical industry museum which showcases evolution of machines. Many transport related items including a submarine, classic cars, railway carriages, an out-of-service Bosphorus ferry and a Douglas DC-3 aircraft (possible to go inside) is, among others, in the display. Also houses a typical Istanbul streetscape with its shops and all as how it would look like in the past.

- Santral İstanbul, Silahtar Mah., Kazım Karabekir Cad. 1, Eyüp (at the upper end of the Horn, confluence of two creeks; free shuttles every half an hour 8:30AM-9PM daily from Atatürk Cultural Centre in Taksim Square is available in addition to a wide array of public buses which call at the nearby 'Silahtar' stop), +90 212 311 78 09, [4]. Tu-Su 10AM-8PM. A contemporary art museum located in a building converted from an old power plant (first such plant in Istanbul and the Ottoman Empire). Part of the plant was kept in almost exact original condition and now serves as the "Energy Museum". 7 TL (students 3 TL, under 12 and over 65 years of age free).

Do
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- Walk the town of Balat. Balat housed the first Jews who settled in Istanbul after the Spanish expulsion. Today, it’s a middle class neighborhood and as you walk you can see the oldest Jewish houses with the Star of David.

Buy
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Eat
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- Akmanoğlu Fırını, (near Eyüp Mosque), +90 212 581 06 39, [5]. This is the bakery where halkas mentioned in see section, as well as a number of other traditional cookies, both sweet and salty alike, are produced and sold.

- Lale Lokantasi, Feshane Caddesi, Eyüp (inside Feshane Kültür Merkezi - cultural centre), +90 212 501 73 72. Traditional Turkish/Ottoman cuisine.

Drink
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Cafés
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- Pierre Loti is an open air café on a hill overlooking Golden Horn in Eyüp. It’s rumored that a famous French writer used to love to visit this café during his residence in Istanbul. There is a cable (enclosed chairlift) line (which lasts about 3 minutes; departs every 5 min between 8AM-midnight), which offers some nice views, between the shore of Golden Horn and the hill on which café is situated. It’s also possible to walk uphill or to take a taxi.

Sleep
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Golden Horn is not very assertive when it comes to accommodation options and is mainly visited as a day trip from nearby districts, Galata and especially Old City. However, if it attracted your attention much as to arouse a desire to overnight there, you have an option or two.

- Turquhouse Boutique Hotel, Merkez Mah. İdris Köşkü Caddesi, Eyüp (1 km to downtown Eyüp), +90 212 497 13 13 (fax: +90 212 497 16 16), [6]. Boutique hotel housed in 7 separate buildings in the same yard. Rooms with en-suite bathrooms, air-con, satellite TV, and wireless internet access. € 90/110/140 for single/double/triple rooms. About 20% cheaper Nov-Mar.

Contact
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Get out
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A trip to Eyüp can easily be combined with some more sightseeing in areas of old city of Istanbul that are close to the banks of Golden Horn, such as the former Greek neighbourhood of Fener/Phanar, which houses Patriarchate of Constantinople and Bulgarian church of St. Stephen, one of few prefabricated cast iron churches in the world.

District Princes’ Islands Table of Contents

• Understand

Orientation

Büyükada

• Get in

• Get around

On the islands

Between the islands

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Stay safe

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
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Princes’ Islands take their name from the fact that during Byzantine and early Ottoman period, members of dynasties who fell out of favor were sent to exile there. Until late 19th century, when regular steamer transportation showed up in the seas around Istanbul, these islands were considered remote and far-away places. Apart from the exiled princes, only a handful of monks found these islands inhabitable then, a fact which gives the islands their former name in Turkish: Keşiş Adaları (“Islands of the Monks”).

Princes’ Islands consist of four major and five minor islands. Major ones are as follows (from west to east, also from smallest to biggest): Kınalıada, Burgaz, Heybeliada, and Büyükada. Apart from these, only one more island of the archipelago is inhabited, that is Sedef which lies east of Büyükada. The other, unhabited ones are: Tavşan south of Büyükada, Kaşık (between Burgaz and Heybeliada), Yassıada and Sivriada (both lying further away in the sea, southwest of Kınalıada). This article will focus on the four major ones, as public transport to uninhabited islands is virtually non-existant, and much of Sedef is private property with limited access.

The islands are an interesting anomaly because they allow for a very rare, albeit incomplete, insight into a multicultural society in modern Turkey, possibly alike to the multicultural society that once existed during the Ottoman Empire in places such as nearby Istanbul/Constantinople. Prior to 1950s, each of the inhabited islands had significant communities of ethnic minorities of Turkey, which still is the case to a much smaller extent. Since the vast majority of the residents and visitors are Turkish, today their legacy is of cultural rather than of demographic importance: Kınalıada (Greek: Proti) used to be the summer retreat of the Armenian archbishop and the Armenian community of Istanbul, Burgazada (Greek: Antigoni) used to be a sleepy village inhabited by Greek fishermen. Heybeliada (Greek: Halki) was the main Turkish settlement on the Princes' Islands, while Büyükada (Greek: Prinkipos) was mostly favored by local Jews and foreign residents of Istanbul, mostly of European descent, although all of these ethnicities could be encountered on Büyükada. This is partially responsible for the different characters of the islands that lie so close to each other.

These islands prove to be a good day-trip especially when you are bored of the crowd, noise, and traffic of Istanbul. Quite a shock is what many travellers experience upon their return to the city, when full-blast car horns are still the way how they were when left behind early in the morning.

One of the best times to be on the islands is during spring (April-May) and during autumn (September-October). During these seasons, the air is neither that cold nor hot, the islands are not very crowded and during spring (especially in late March), the mimosa trees, which are some sort of symbol of the islands, are in full bloom of their yellow flowers. At weekends during summer (June-August), all of the islands are really crowded, and so are the ships. Avoid if you can. During winter, the exact opposite is the case. However, if you want to enjoy the islands blanketed by snow and/or a very gloomy and almost deserted “ghost-town” experience and don’t mind the biting cold, then winter is definitely that season.

If you don’t have time to visit all of the islands, pick Büyükada: it’s undoubtedly the “queen” of the islands.

Orientation
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Büyükada
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Upon getting off the ferry, you’ll recognize the clock at the square just a block up in front of you. This is the main square of Büyükada, and around it is the town centre. Most grocery stores are to your left, as well as the restaurants which also occupy the waterfront to your left when exiting the quay. From the clock, major roads of the island diverge left (east), right (west), and straight ahead (south) among some mansions (best of which are lined on the main road to right) towards the hill, as well as narrower streets and alleys connecting these. These roads join each other again in Birlik Meydanı Square (lit. "union square", perhaps because the roads "unite" there), the geographical centre point of the island, lying amongst pine woods between the two main hilltops. From that square, whether you take the road to left or right, you will end up in the same square, as that road encircles the southern half of the island, at a distance to the sea. The Chuch of St George lies at the end of another cobbled uphill path starting from Birlik Meydanı.

There is a large and detailed map of the island posted at the left of exit of ferry quay.

Get in
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The only way to get to islands is by sea: whether Istanbul liners or fast ferries [1], available at various hours every day. From European Side of Istanbul, you can take a boat from Kabataş, while from Asian Side, the piers with a connection to the islands are located in Kadıköy and Bostancı. The most frequent departures are from Bostancı (especially in winter), which also has private mid-sized boat connection to the islands in addition to liners and fast ferries. See Asian Side article for an extensive detail of how to get to Bostancı from more central parts of the city.

A trip on liners typically take around an hour and a half from European Side, and 45 minutes from Asian Side.

Almost all ferries call at all four major islands in a row, but sometimes they first call at Büyükada, and other times at Kınalıada. Island names are not announced by voice inside the ships, so be sure to check the large signs on the quays to make sure that the island you are about to step on is the one that you want to step on.

Get around
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On the islands
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As the motorized vehicles (save for service vehicles like school buses or ambulances) are all banned on the islands, the most popular way of getting around is horse-drawn carriages (fayton), which can be likened to taxis, or the dolmuş, of the mainland. There is a fixed price for every location (in Büyükada, they are announced on the sign in the main fayton stop near the quay). The greatest price is for a total loop (known as Büyük Tur) around the island (length: about 15 km, price: about YTL 45 for Büyükada in April, 2007). Price is per fayton, i.e. not dependent on how much people the fayton carries (but they accept no more than 4, and some horses are not very comfortable with more than 3 passengers). Please note that there are no faytons in Kınalıada, as that island is not big enough to justify taking one.

Also renting a bike is another alternative. The fare was about YTL 3.00 per hour in winter, 2005. Most renters require you to leave an official identification to be returned after the payment is made. A student ID may suffice. Some renters distribute a road map of the island free of charge, don’t forget to ask for it.

Walking the pleasant streets of the islands is obviously an alternative, too.

Between the islands
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All boats operating between the islands and the mainland call at all of the major islands, so you can also take them for island-hopping.

See
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- Hagios Giorgios Church (Saint George/Aya Yorgi) is located on one of two summits of Büyükada. After reaching the central point of the island (known as Birlik Meydanı Square), you should climb a steep cobblestoned path on foot to get there (it’s too steep for a fayton, as well as a bike, to climb). It takes about 35-40 minutes. Although the church building itself is unexceptional with nothing really fascinating, the backyard of the church offers some very beautiful sights of the other islands and the sea. On April 23rd every year, which is considered as St George’s holy day, a crowd of seemingly tens of thousands attend the church to make wishes. Wishmaking rituals that day range from usual burning a candle to climbing the cobbled path on bare feet to untying wool balls all along the path. The final part of the path that day is as crowded as a rock concert (except very early in the morning, like 6AM, it’s reported), because police officers let people in in groups of 10-15 at once, to avoid an overcrowding inside the church. If you decide to burn a candle that day keep in mind that nearer the church you are, cheaper the candles being sold around (for example, in 2007 it was YTL 2.00 near the quay, while the going price very near the church was YTL 0.50 per candle). But better of all would be to buy the candle inside the church for a donation (it’s up to you how much to pay) as none of the profit of the candles sold on the streets benefits the church. And a sidenote: Most of the people attending the church and waiting for a blessing from the priest upon exit that day are non-Christian Turks, but there is nothing surprising about that: This is Turkey, where east meets west (and vice versa) and cultures truly mix.

- On the other summit of Büyükada, amidst the pine woods lies the abandoned and dilapidated Greek Orphanage (Rum Yetimhanesi), looking like a haunted manor. Originally built as a hotel in late 19th century, this completely-wooden, 4-story building is the second largest wooden construction in whole world (the largest in Europe). It’s dangerous to enter the building itself (because it’s slowly decaying), and also forbidden.

- Both the eastern and western side of Büyükada is full of wooden Victorian-style mansions dating back to late 19th/early 20th century, similars of which have been bulldozed in the rest of Istanbul (with the exception of neighborhoods on Bosphorus banks) to make way for concrete, multi-story apartment buildings. The ones on the western side (right side when looking out of quay) seem more splendid. Just don’t be surprised and don’t start looking for them as soon as you get off the ship: Around the quay is more like a modest town centre. They are located about 15 min walk away from the quay.

Do
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- Great/Total Circuit (Büyük Tur, about 15 km in Büyükada): Either by fayton or bike. It’s not as hard as it may sound, except a few slopes.

- Have a picnic in a scenic spot.

Buy
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Eat
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- Alibaba Restaurant, Gülistan Cad. no: 18, Büyükada (in the town centre, on the left side when walking out of the ferry quay), +90 216 382-37-33 (fax: +90 216 382-36-00). 10AM-1AM. Seafood restaurant in Büyükada. Reservation is advised on Saturdays. Visa, Mastercard and AmEx accepted.

- Konak Lokantası, Recep Koçak Cad. no: 87, Büyükada, +90 216 382-54-79. Kebab and traditional Turkish cuisine. Visa and Mastercard accepted.

- Köşem Restoran, ş.Recep Koçak Cad. No:49, Büyükada (turn left when you get off the ferry, then see it on your right in about 200m), +90 216 382-11-20. Very nice and cheap place, lost of locals eat here. There is both cafe-like service and self-service.

- Sofrada Restoran, Recep Koçak Cad. İsa Çelebi Sokak 10, Büyükada (walk towards the clock tower as you exit the ferry and take a left at the clock, walk about 20 meters and take a right on the street with the new, large Marine House Hotel. The restaurant is on the same side as the hotel, on your right.), +90 216 382-76-39. 10AM-10PM. This small quaint restaurant is run by a family and was formerly called Ada Ev Yemekleri. It features traditional Turkish and Eastern Med cuisine at great prices. Very tasty and an authentic slice of the Islands and Turkish cuisine. From 8 TL (GB£ 4/US$ 6) pp. Credit cards accepted.

Drink
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- By Şükrü, Gülistan Caddesi #16, Büyükada, +90 216 382-12-45 (for group or fixed menu pricing, please call Susan at +90-532-700-22-11). 10AM-3AM. By Şükrü is located right on the sea front with a variety of fresh seafood, kebob and vegetarian dishes. You can enjoy live music every Saturday night in the tavern, and for those of you who miss a good T-Bone Steak or Shrimp Scampi you may visit By Şükrü's Winehouse. Just minutes away from the pier, By Şükrü is easy to get to and one of the most visited restaurants on the island. Reservations are suggested for weekends. US$ 20.

Sleep
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Büyükada and Heybeliada both have a limited range of hotels, some of which serve in a boutique style, preferred by many tourists but not spectacularly clean.

- Ascot Hotel, Madenler Mahallesi, Çınar Caddesi 6, Büyükada, +90 216 382-28-88, [2]. A new boutique hotel with a pool, garden, restaurant, and bar. 22 rooms with en-suite bathrooms. Best rates on official website start at € 85.

- İdeal Pansiyon, Kadıyoran Caddesi 4, Büyükada (very close to the clock at the square, about a block upper from there), +90 216 382-68-57. One of the cheapest places to stay while in Büyükada, İdeal Pansiyon is housed in a historical wooden mansion. While the beds and linens are clean, and this guesthouse offers the experience to stay in a historical mansion (in fact, the building can serve as the setting of a horror movie), the downside of it is that not all rooms have en-suite bathrooms, and the building and furnitures are so old that you can easily overhear what is going on in the next or upper room in all its entirety (the same is true for your room as well). Heating is also reported to be a little problematic, so also take this into consideration in winter as well. 50 TL pp at weekends in spring months, possibly cheaper in winter and on week days.

- Mimoza Pansiyon, Büyükada, +90 216 382-74-35 (mimozapansiyon@hotmail.com), [3]. Guesthouse offering rooms with central heating, air conditioner, hot water, and wireless internet.

- Splendid Palace Hotel, 23 Nisan Cad. no: 53, Büyükada, +90 216 382-67-75 (info@splendidhotel.net), [4]. Located in an Art-Nouveau building which dates back to 1908.

Stay safe
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If you are doing the great circuit of Büyükada, beware of dogs near the cemetery, which suddenly start barking at and chasing you when you are about to re-enter the built-up area in the east of the island if you are circumambulating the island counter-clockwise (or after you have just entered the wooded section if you are doing clockwise). The best reaction is to speed up as much as your legs and the bicycle can endure, they give up after a certain length of chase. This warning is especially true for winter.

Also, whether you are a pedestrian or a cyclist, always give way to faytons to avoid dangerous collisions. Don’t be fooled by the absence of motorized vehicles: Always check the road first when crossing. The horses can and do have real high speeds.

Contact
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The telephone code for islands is (+90) 216, which is same with the Asian Side but different from European Side.

Get out
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If you are not going to stay overnight in the islands, don’t forget to take a note of departure times of ships back to the city before leaving the quay building. Ships are less frequent after the night falls, especially in winter. Generally the most frequent line (and the one with the latest departure) is Islands-Bostancı one. From Bostancı, you can take dolmuş or public bus (#112) to Taksim in European Side. (once in Bostancı quay, cross the street, walk straight ahead, cross the pedestrian passage under the railway, climb up the second stairs on the left. You’ll come across a little square, on the opposite edge of it is where dolmuşes and buses to Taksim depart). Note that the sea can be rough in spring, autumn and winter, and the islands are sometimes cut off from the outside world when the ferry services are cancelled due to storms and high waves.

District Asian Side Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

From outside of Istanbul

By air

By train

By bus

By boat

From the rest of Istanbul

By boat

By bus

By dolmuş

Over land from European Side

• Get around

By dolmuş

By train

By car

By bicycle

By tram

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid range

Splurge

• Contact

Internet

Understand
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"Land of the Blind"

Before setting sail to find a suitable place for a colony, Byzas, legendary founder of Byzantium, was told by soothsayers that he was going to found new city across the water from the land of the blind. Then, one day, during his pursuit of the new land, he set foot on a beautiful, forested, and easily-protectable peninsula, surrounded by the sea from three sides. On one side, there was a deep and long bay, too, where storms of open seas have little effect, perfect for a harbor. Looking more carefully, he saw some fishermen inside the bay. After learning that they are from Khalkedon across the Bosphorus, he remembered the prophecy, and convinced that they were indeed ‘the Blind’, who couldn’t see the wonderful land he was standing on and preferred to build their city in a rather inconvenient location. Soon thereafter, Byzas set the first stone of what has become the city of Istanbul, and Khalkedon (today’s Kadıköy) got the nickname ‘the Land of the Blind’.

Kadıköy (ancient Khalkedon) and Üsküdar (ancient Chrysopolis/Scutari) forms the historical cores of this part of the city. Both started as cities independent of Istanbul (in fact Khalkedon was founded about 30-40 years earlier than Istanbul itself), and only incorporated into the city of Istanbul in late 19th century. It’s no coincidence that the regular steamer services across the Bosphorus was started a few years earlier.

Today Kadıköy and Üsküdar are mainly commercial zones. The rest of this part of the city mainly consist of soulless suburbs full of quite high-rise apartment blocks, most of which date back no more than 30 years (which, again, is no coincidence that the first inter-continental Bosphorus bridge was constructed a few years before). Major exceptions are the Bosphorus bank, with its historical palaces, mansions, and neighborhoods with a character; and the coast of the Sea of Marmara, all along which lies a lovely (and, unsurprisingly, long) park on the edge of which a number of impressive wooden mansion lie.

Known as the less crowded and more orderly half of the city, Asian Side nonetheless houses about 4.4 million people, or one of every three Istanbulites, out of which around 1.3 million commute daily to Europe.

Get in
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From outside of Istanbul
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By air
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Sabiha Gökçen Airport (SAW) [1] is located on Asiatic Side, about 20 km east of Kadıköy. To get to the centre from there, you can take public bus E10 which brings you to Kadıköy in 70 minutes (3 YTL). You can also alternatively take Havas bus which connects this airport with Taksim in the European Side for 10 YTL.

By train
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Haydarpaşa Station, which is the main station of Istanbul for Asian destinations is located about 5-10 min walk away from downtown Kadıköy. Drop by if you are nearby, even if you have no plan to take a train, since the station building, built by the German in 1908 in a distinctive Teutonic-castle style, is a sight in itself. It’s rumoured that the architectural style of the building was deliberately chosen, because, in the age of railways, it was the point where passengers from deep inland Asia have their first sight of Europe, located across the Bosphorus. Likewise, Sirkeci station -main station of European Side- which has a similar duty for passengers from Europe, has a distinctive Oriental style.

By bus
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Harem is the name of the major otogar of this side, and the first place of call in Istanbul of many buses from Asian Turkey. It’s located at about the mid-way between Üsküdar and Kadıköy and has frequent ferry links with Eminönü/Sirkeci.

By boat
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Fast ferries from places on the southern coast of the Marmara Sea, such as Yalova or Bandirma are available to Bostancı pier. Some are direct, while others transfer to a smaller ferry after arriving at Yenikapı pier of European Side.

From the rest of Istanbul
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By boat
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Taking a liner or a mid-sized boat is the most sensible way of getting to Asian Side from Europe, beating the usually congested traffic on Bosphorus bridges. Major liner piers are located in Kadıköy and Üsküdar. Major liner lines are as follows: (other boats also ply more or less the same routes)

- Kadıköy – Eminönü

- Kadıköy – Karaköy (also calls at Haydarpaşa station’s pier)

- Kadıköy – Beşiktaş

- Üsküdar - Eminönü

- Üsküdar - Beşiktaş

- Üsküdar - Eminönü and then on to Eyüp in Golden Horn

Fast ferries from places further away like Bakırköy are available to Kadıköy (separate from liner pier) or Bostancı pier. But they are much more expensive than liners.

By bus
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It’s possible to take a public bus crossing one of Bosphorus bridges, though not advisable during rush hour (7-10AM towards Europe, 6-8PM towards Asia), when all traffic on the bridges, and especially on the roads leading to them slow to a crawl. Note that all public bus lines crossing the bridges require two tickets (or the equivalent cash) rather than one, with the sole exception of #129L (Levent-Kozyatağı line, which departs from next to 4. Levent metro station and terminates in Kozyatağı, the main business district of Asian Side), though it is of little interest to the average tourist. Numbers of the most useful inter-continental lines are as follows:

- 110 — Taksim and Beşiktaş to Kadıköy

- 120 — Mecidiyeköy to Kadıköy

- 112 — Taksim and Beşiktaş to Bostancı

- 128 — Mecidiyeköy to Bostancı

- 129T — Taksim and Beşiktaş to Bostancı, via the foot of Çamlıca Hill, useful to getting there direct from European Side

The metrobüs (#34A), which connects Edirnekapı just out of old city walls in European Side with Söğütlüçeşme just east of downtown Kadıköy (about 15-20 min away on foot) via Mecidiyeköy and a number of other stations on the way, is a very quick option thanks to its special lanes segregated from all other traffic, except a short section actually on the bridge itself, though they are still much better than conventional buses, even on the bridge. Although metrobüs stations are usually a little off the usual tourist trail, they are easily accessible from more central locations by a variety of public transportation, including the metro from Taksim Square for Mecidiyeköy station. #34A is a single-ticket line despite crossing the Bosphorus.

Over land to Üsküdar

In late 19th century, Jules Verne wrote Kéraban-La-têtu (Keraban the Inflexible), in which he depicted a fictional Keraban Agha, a resident of Üsküdar, who was known for his stubbornness. According to the plot, one day when Keraban Agha wanted to take his two Dutch guests to his home from Galata, officials reminded him of a new tax levied by the government: From thenceforth anyone who wished to cross the Bosphorus should pay a fee of 10 para. Keraban, as much obstinate as he could be, of course declined to pay the tax to the government he disapproved. But still wanting to take his guests to his home across the Bosphorus, he leaded the wrong way: They encircled the whole (~4000 km) coastline of Black Sea via Bulgaria, Romania, Crimea, Northern Caucasus, Abkhazia, and northern Turkey. The trio arrived at Keraban’s residence after a 45-day jouney.

In December 2008, a group of Turkish artists “repeated” the journey, under the name “In the Footsteps of Jules Verne.” Being forced to arch around Moldova to avoid conflict zone of Transnistria, and being unable to cross the Russian-Georgian border, as well as running into many other less significant problems at other border crossings, artists, upon completing their 14-day journey, declared that it was even harder to follow the same route after 125 years.

By dolmuş
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There are dolmuş lines operating almost 24 hours between Taksim-Kadıköy, and Taksim-Bostancı. They depart from the street next to Atatürk Kültür Merkezi in Taksim Square (opposite edge of the square from Istiklal Street) and cost about TL 5.50/person.

Over land from European Side
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See infobox to the right.

Get around
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Kadıköy and Üsküdar are the main transport hubs of this part of the city. From both, it is possible to find a direct dolmuş, bus or minibus line to almost anywhere in Asian Istanbul, and also to a lot of places in the European Side. Bostancı on the coast of Marmara Sea is a secondary hub, but an important one nonetheless.

By dolmuş
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Dolmuşes ply between Kadıköy-Üsküdar, Kadıköy-Bostancı and Bostancı-Kadıköy until late at night.There are also Dolmuşes from Kadıköy to Acıbadem, Koşuyolu and various points.

By train
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Suburban trains with frequent departures from Haydarpaşa head to Gebze out of city borders (44 km to Kadıköy), following closely the Marmara sea-shore, calling at Bostancı and a number (well, actually more than 20) of other stations on the way, including Kartal, Pendik, and Tuzla among others. A ticket (jeton) is valid for once and costs about 1,50 TL.

By car
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Major roads of Asian Side mostly follow a west-east axis. These are the three major roads which connect Kadıköy with locations east (from south to north): The causeway (Sahil Yolu), which follows the coast of Marmara Sea, Bağdat Avenue (one-way, and that is east to west which means you cannot enter from Kadıköy), and the road colloquially known as Minibüs Yolu. From Üsküdar, the major road colloquially known with its former European road number E-5 lies to east towards depths of Asia, while another road also named Sahil Yolu (Causeway) connects the neighborhoods on the bank of Bosphorus in the north to Üsküdar.

By bicycle
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There is a long (more than 20 km with some short interruptions) and marked bicycle lane along the park which lies along the coast of the Sea of Marmara, starting from a few km east of Kadıköy, passing by Bostancı and eventually reaching furthest parts of the city in the east. The bikepath is well-maintained but be careful anyway: Although it’s very unlikely that you’ll come across a motorized vehicle, pedestrians –who aren’t very used to seeing bikepaths in Turkish cities- have just begun to respect the rules of bicycle lanes.

By tram
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Between Kadıköy and Moda, the one-way circular traditional tram route offers a pleasant short ride. However, you will likely use it for the experience, rather than as a useful transportation link.

See
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- Beylerbeyi Palace (Beylerbeyi Sarayı), Beylerbeyi (north of Üsküdar), +90 216 321-93-20 (fax: +90 216 321-93-22), [2]. Tu-W F-Su 9:30AM-4PM (Oct-Feb); Tu-W F-Su 9:30AM-5PM (Mar-Sep). Lying under the legs of the Bosphorus Bridge, this beautiful palace located amidst an attractive garden was built between 1861-1865 by Sultan Abdulaziz. Strangely, one of the highligts of the palace is the restroom on its second floor, which has a large window with a full view of Bosphorus—it is possibly the restroom with the most beautiful view in the world! Joining guided tours in major spoken languages which starts every half an hour (or whenever there are enough people waiting) is the only way to visit the palace (no additional fee for tours other than the entry admission).

- Çamlica Hill — One of the highest hills of Istanbul (268 metres high) and almost all major broadcasting antennas are located on this hill, since the hill dominates a great part of the city. On the top of the hill, a public park with cafes remind the visitors of an Ottoman atmosphere. Thıs public park is sponsored by the government so expect lower prices on food and drink than usual. The cafe located in a building at the top of the hill is moderately expensive, don't worry about it though because you'll get excellent food and service.

- Maiden's Tower (Kız Kulesi), Salacak (south of Üsküdar, about 15 min on foot away), +90 216 342-47-47 (kule.operasyon@kizkulesi.com.tr, fax: +90 216 495-28-85), [3]. Maiden's Tower, also called Leander's Tower, is built on a small islet surrounded by waters of Bosphorus off the Üsküdar coast where you can have breakfast before noon (a standard breakfast costs 35 TL pp), have drinks during day or dine (mid-expensive) inside the tower itself. The Tower is accessible by boats both from Salacak (very frequent intervals four seasons) or from Kabataş in European Side, on the Bosphorus waterfront at the end of the funicular line from Taksim Square (about once every two hours, summers only). Story has it that a powerful emperor built the tower in the middle of the sea to protect his beloved daughter from death after hearing a prophecy told by a fortuneteller, but a snake had found its way to the tower (inside a basket of fruits) and, as you have already guessed, had bitten and killed the princess, although in reality it is far more likely that the place was built as a lighthouse to warn the ships entering the Bosphorus about the rocky islet the tower was built on. There is also a viewing area on the coast directly opposite the Tower where you can buy tea and sit down to enjoy the beauty of Bosphorus while listening to traditional Turkish music—much cheaper than the Tower itself. It is recommended to visit right at sunset, when the sun is reflecting off the water and the Tower's lights are turning on. Also at the viewing area, there are 2-person gondola rides.

- Bağdat Caddesi (Baghdad Avenue), lying parallel with (but a short dinstance away from) the Marmara coast between a few km east of Kadıköy and Bostancı to the east, has nothing to do with Baghdad, Iraq except that, during the Ottoman period, it was the beginning part of the road which connected the capital city, Istanbul with Baghdad, another important city of the empire then.This avenue had it's name because an Ottoman Sultan,Murat the IVth went to Baghdad from that avenue. In fact, with its sidewalk cafés, Bağdat Caddesi is usually considered as one of the most European-flavored street of Istanbul nowadays, ironically located on Asia. This street is not completely pedestrianized like the Istiklal Street of the European Side, but its broad sidewalks shaded with trees offer a pleasant walk. The restaurants and cafés on the avenue are mainly upscale, but there are also some quite affordable ones scattered around occasionally. Shopping opportunities also abound. From Kadıköy, take ‘Bostancı’ dolmuş (they depart from near that big yellow balloon) or public bus #4 (its stop is also near the balloon, but separate from dolmuş stop).

- Moda. A neighbourhood occupying the peninsula just south of Kadıköy, Moda features some neo-classical architecture and parks on the sides of the peninsula. It is a favourite place for people of Kadıköy of all ages to take a short stroll on a summer evening, and for the youth to enjoy a few beers against the minaret and dome-filled skyline of Old City. To get there, you can follow the waterfront promenade from that big yellow balloon, or take the vintage tram from downtown Kadıköy, though the circular tram line does not make it all the way to tip of the peninsula of Moda.

- As aforementioned, Haydarpaşa Station, built in a turn of 20th century in German style is well worth a look and can be easily walked to from Kadıköy. Further to the north of Haydarpaşa station and a little difficult to find (it is surrounded on three sides by Turkish military barracks) is the British cemetary with an obelisk commemorating the Crimean war and many Crimean war, Victorian era (and later) graves as well as a modern British and Commonwealth war graves cemetary.

- Toy Museum (Oyuncak Müzesi), Ömerpaşa Caddesi, Dr. Zeki Zeren Sokağı 17, Göztepe (5 min walk away from 'Göztepe' station of suburban train line), +90 216 359-45-50 (info@istanbuloyuncakmuzesi.com), [4]. Tu-Su 9:30AM-6PM. Dedicated to toys, this is a museum which adults can enjoy as much as kids. Founded by poet Sunay Akın, the museum is housed in a historical mansion in Göztepe neighbourhood east of Kadıköy. Among the 2,000 pieces of toys from around the world that are in exhibition, the oldest ones are a violin made in France in 1817 and a doll made in the United States in 1820. 8 TL (5 TL for children).

- Anadolu Citadel (Anadolu Hisarı), (in the neighbourhood of Anadolu Hisarı, up on the Bosphorus bank). Interior of the citadel is not open to public. A medieval citadel a little older and much smaller than its European counterpart, situated on the meadow where tranquil Göksu River empties into the Bosphorus, surrounded by picturesque wooden traditional houses.

- Anadolu Kavağı, with its impressive citadel named Yoros on the hill, is the northernmost part of Asian Istanbul, but ironically, easier to get to from European Side. See Istanbul#Get out for more details.

- Yakacık Hill, located in a quite distant part of Asian Istanbul (approximately 20 km east of Bosphorus) in Kartal (ancient Kartalimen) district has a great view of the city. Water springs and the Aydos Hill (537 m), which is the highest point of Istanbul, are the other remarkable destinations in the region of Yakacik.

- İçmeler near Tuzla has the only hot spring in Istanbul.

Do
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- Ride the balloon (Turk Balloon) in Kadıköy (easily recognizable by its yellow color on Kadıköy coast). Although it doesn’t stray much away from its base –since it is always tied to the ground by a rope- it offers a view of much of Istanbul –both European and Asian Sides- from a height of 200 meters.

- Istanbul leg of Formula One annually takes place in IstanbulPark [5], located about 20 km east of Kadıköy. City’s public transport authority (İETT) provides frequent buses from Kadıköy and Bostancı (and a number of locations in European Side as well) during the race days.

- Caddebostan Beach (Caddebostan Plajı), (at Caddebostan, west of Bostancı, about half an hour's walk from there). Recently opened on the site of a beach existed 40 years ago, before Istanbul became the behemoth it is today. Complete with a (re-created) sandy strand 450 metres long, and a kiosk offering snacks and soft drinks, the beach is run by the city council. Becomes very crowded in summer weekends, though. 10 TL, including the deckchair rent, restrooms, and shower.

Buy
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- You can do shopping in Kadıköy, Üsküdar and Bağdat Street. The sale (prices %50 off) season for winter is after New Years Day and for summer after July.

Eat
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Budget
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- Kanaat Lokantası, Selmanipak Cad. no: 25, Üsküdar (in the street behind the sea dock), +90 216 341-54-44 (fax: +90 216 341-68-55), [6]. Kanaat Lokantası, which dates back to 1933, is famous for its traditional Ottoman cuisine as well as a variety of fascinating desserts. The prices are reasonable but they accept nothing but cash.

- Şelale Restaurant, Mühürdar Cad. Güneşli Bahçe Sok. No:60, Kadıköy, +90 216 330-44-20 (selalerestaurant@kadikoyweb.com), [7]. Kebabs and similar stuff. Kebab with yoghurt (İskender) there is tasty and slightly cheaper than elsewhere. From 10 TL.

- Balık-ekmek (literally “fish-bread”, a grilled fish sandwiched inside half a bread) is an increasingly popular low-budget meal in buffets in Kadıköy coast, which can be had for TL 3-3.50.

Mid-range
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- Çiya Sofrası, Caferağa Mah. Güneşlibahçe Sk. 43, Kadıköy (in the 'Fish Market'), +90 216 330-31-90 (info@ciya.com.tr, fax: +90 216 349-19-02), [8]. Regional tastes ranging from Balkans to Asia, Caucasus to Mesopotamia, with much delicious kebabs. From €10-15 pp.

- Hatay Restaurant, Bağdat Caddesi 526, Bostancı, +90 216 361-33-57 (info@hatayrestaurant.com), [9]. 1PM-midnight. A traditional restaurant for tasting Rakı with mezes. Famous amongst Turkish poets. From 20-30 TL.

- Tike Kebap Şaşkınbakkal, Kazım Özalp Caddesi 58, Kadıköy, +90 216 467-59-14 (tike@tike.com.tr, fax: +90 216 467-52-43), [10]. 1PM-midnight. A luxury traditional restaurant for tasting Turkish kebab on the waterfront avenue (Sahil Yolu). From 30-40 TL/pp.

Splurge
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Drink
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Kadıköy has a nightlife scene of its own, smaller than Beyoğlu of European Side, but as lively. From the quay where liners from Eminönü arrives (signed as Eminönü Karaköy İskelesi), first cross the main street, then turn right, from the corner where Starbucks is located, turn left. You’ll come across two churches facing each other, turn right there. On that street and the upper one parallel to it, you’ll find lots of bars (some of which offer live music), pubs, and Turkish taverns. A few blocks uphill from there is the street colloquially known as Barlar Sokağı (Turkish for “Street of Bars”), where there are more places for a drink. If you can’t manage to find that street, ask which direction Rexx Sineması (pronounced racks see-neh-mah-sa) is to young people around. That cinema/movie theater is very near that street, and is widely known.

- Karga, Kadife Sokak 16, Kadıköy (on 'Barlar Sokağı'), +90 216 449 1725 (info@kargabar.org, fax: +90 216 346 5546), [11]. A finely decorated bar situated in a three-storey old building with wooden ceilings and floors. Also has a small yard at the back. 7 TL for a pint (0.50 litre) of beer.

- Caddebostan Balans Brau , very nice place for beer(especially own-made weisbier and sausage. On the Bağdat Street.

- Coffee chains around anatolian side (Kadıköy and Bağdat Caddesi) are very popular. Starbucks, Gloria Jean's Coffee, and Kahve Dünyası (especially for Turkish Coffee)

Sleep
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Budget
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Mid range
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- Hotel Deniz, Gn. Şahap Gürler Cad. No:2, Kadıköy (right across the street from Haydarpaşa Station), +90 216 348 74 55 (info@denizotel.com.tr, fax: +90 216 347 68 67), [12]. Rooms with air-conditioner, TV, en-suite bathrooms. 24-hr room service provided. 130/150/165 YTL single/double/triple rooms.

- Hotel Zirve, Rıhtım Caddesi, Reşitefendi Sokak No:36, Kadıköy, +90 216 414 51 42, +90 216 414 51 43, +90 216 414 53 04. All rooms have cable tv, wireless internet and are comfortable lodgings at a good price. 55-120 YTL.

Splurge
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- A'jia Hotel, Çubuklu Caddesi No:27, Kanlica, +90 216 413 9300 (fax: +90 216 413 9355, info@ajiahotel.com), [13]. A unique boutique hotel located on the Asian side of the city facing the beautiful Bosphorus. Rooms include air-con, TV, safe, wi fi. Rooms range from €250-850.

- Hotel Suadiye, Plaj Yolu, 25, 34740 Suadiye, +90 216 445 84 24 (fax: +90 216 445 20 02, info@hotelsuadiye.com), [14]. A 4 star hotel located on the Sahilyolu,very close to the Bağdat Avenue. Rooms include air-con, TV, safe, wi fi. Rooms range from €150 for 3 persons.

Contact
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The area code of this half of the city is (+90) 216, which is different from the European Side.

Internet
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- Cafeinn Internet Cafe, Caferağa Mah. Sarraf Ali Sokak 35/1, Kadıköy (just off Mühürdar Caddesi, the street one block inland from waterfront, parallel to it). Quite good computers though most software is a little outdated, so may not support latest additions, such as some kinds of alphabets/fonts. 2 TL/hr.

District Western Suburbs Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By air

By train

By metroortram

By dolmuş

By bus

By boat

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Caravan park

• Stay safe

• Contact

Understand
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The western suburbs of Istanbul are mostly residential areas and range from multi-million villas in Florya on the coast of Marmara Sea to slums of Bağcılar in the north. In general, the districts on the Marmara coast are upscale, while the districts located farther north inland are full of buildings with no respect to building codes, and minimal aesthetic expectations (slum, in short).

Get in
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These suburbs are actually main ports of entry into the city, as both the major airport and the main bus station (otogar) of the city is located in this district. Those travelling on their own vehicles also make it through this district first on the way to central Istanbul, when approaching from west.

By air
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Istanbul’s primary airport, Atatürk International (IST), is located near Yeşilköy, within this district. For more detailed information about how to get to the city center from the airport, see the respective section of main Istanbul article. Please note, while the nearest neighborhood to the airport is Yeşilköy, it is not possible to walk or otherwise easily get to the airport from Yeşilköy, so it is important not to catch a bus or a train with a stop in ‘Yeşilköy’ while in need of getting to the airport. Always look for the dedicated ‘Airport’ (Havaalanı/Havalimanı) stop/station. The instructions on the main Istanbul article are correct, though.

By train
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A suburban train (banliyö treni) line connects the coastal part of this district (including Bakırköy and Yeşilköy) with Sirkeci and with numerous other stations located in old city.

Trains from destinations in Europe or European Turkey don’t call at any of the stations located within this district. If you are arriving by a long-distance train, best way to get to these suburbs is to get off the (long-distance) train at Sirkeci station (last station) and then, to catch a suburban train there to your final destination.

By metroortram
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After starting in Aksaray and running underground through the old city, southern metro line (M1) leaves the old city in Ulubatlı-Topkapı station and enters the Western Suburbs. It runs towards northwest until the main bus station (otogar) in Esenler, where the line curves towards south to meet the tram line which leaves old city in underground Topkapı station by the city walls. After the tram/metro intersection in Zeytinburnu, the metro line starts running towards west and after passing through a couple of brief underground sections and the stations of Bakırköy (which actually is located 3 km north of downtown Bakırköy), Ataköy, and Yenibosna among others, it eventually reaches its terminus at Atatürk International Airport (station: Havalimanı).

By dolmuş
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Dolmuşes operate on the following lines, almost 24 hours a day:

- Taksim-Bakırköy

- Taksim-Ataköy

- Taksim-Yeşilköy

By bus
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As anywhere else in Istanbul, there is a vast number of bus lines connecting this district with the rest of the city. The numbers of most useful lines are as follows:

- 71T Taksim-Ataköy (via Aksaray in old city and a stop a little distance away from downtown Bakırköy)

- 72T Taksim-Yeşilköy (via Aksaray in old city and a stop a little distance away from downtown Bakırköy)

- 81 Eminönü-Yeşilköy (via the avenue located directly on the coast)

- 94A Beyazıt-Bakırköy

Also very long, hybrid buses called Metrobüs which have their right-of-way ply through a route in the middle of the major highway heading west, in the north of Bakırköy. They depart from Mecidiyeköy and cut travel time dramatically.

By boat
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Fast ferries from places in the Asian Side, or occasionally from Eminönü arrive at Bakırköy pier.

See
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- Aviation Museum (Havacılık Müzesi), Yeşilköy (north of downtown Yeşilköy, close to 'Yeşilköy' station on suburban train line), +90 212 663-24-90 (havacilikmuzesi@hho.edu.tr), [1]. W-Su 9AM-5PM. A military-based museum with various warplanes, helicopters, and weapons used by Turkish Air Force, and also civilian air transport and many samples of Turkish aeronautics history, starting from Ottoman era are among the exhibition. 3.50 TL (there is a further fee of 6 TL to take photos).

- Turkuazoo, Forum İstanbul no:3, Kocatepe (inside Forum İstanbul shopping mall; metro: Kartaltepe-Kocatepe station on southern (Aksaray-Airport) metro line), +90 212 640-27-40, [2]. M-F 10AM-6PM, S-Su 10AM-7PM. One of those typical huge aquariums where you walk through transparent tunnels underwater. 25 TL, students: 18 TL.

- Yeşilköy, (west of Bakırköy). A neighbourhood lying on the coast of Marmara Sea, Yeşilköy, or St. Stephen (Agios Stephanos) as called in ancient times, still partly retains more of a town atmosphere with its wooden mansions, churches, and a long verdant park lying along the beach - perfect to take a walk. (Buses: 72T from Taksim and Bakırköy, 81 from Eminönü; dolmuşes from Taksim; suburban train from Sirkeci and Bakırköy)

Do
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Buy
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- Galleria, Ataköy (on the coast avenue. 15-20 min walk from Bakırköy), +90 212 559 95 60, [3]. First modern shopping mall of Turkey, opened in 1980s.

- Carousel, Halit Ziya Uşaklığil Cad. 1, Bakırköy (in downtown Bakırköy), +90 212 570 84 34 (info@carousel.com.tr, fax: +90 212 583 66 76), [4]. Shopping mall in Bakırköy.

- Olivium Outlet Center, Prof. Dr. Muammer Aksoy Cad. No: 1/1, Zeytinburnu (Bus lines: 93 from Eminönü, 93C from Beyazıt, 93M from Mecidiyeköy, 93T from Taksim. Get off at 'Adliye' stop.), +90 212 547 74 53 (info@olivium.com, fax: +90 212 582 06 26), [5]. An outlet center.

Eat
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Budget
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Mid-range
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Splurge
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- Beyti Restaurant, Orman sokak No:8, Florya, +90 212 663 29 90 (beyti@beyti.com, fax: +90 212 663 29 95), [6]. Tue-Sun. Simply, one of the best restaurants in Istanbul, favoured by diners thanks to its delicious meat in the 45's at Küçükçekmece, in a pleasant environment, is like a monument of tradition remembered by people at every age. It has an honourable and respectable level on Turkish and international press. From 50 - 150 TL per person.

- Yüksel Balık Lokantası, Liman Sokak No:3, Yeşilköy, +90 212 663 97 42, [7]. Great seafood. They can give great advice on what is the best fish for the season and other dishes in general. Around US$ 50 per person.

Drink
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Sleep
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Accommodation in this district are mostly upscale and located around the airport.

- Airport Hotel, Atatürk Airport International Terminal (in the airport), +90 212 425 40 30, [8].

- Çınar Hotel, Şevketiye Mah. Fener Mevkii, Yeşilköy, +90 212 663-29-00 (reservation@cinarhotel.com.tr, fax: +90 212 663-29-21), [9]. 5-star hotel with indoor and outdoor swimming pools located on the waterfront of Yeşilköy, close to the airport. Rooms with en-suite bathrooms, air-con, balcony, internet connection, safebox, and cable TV.

- Radisson SAS Conference and Airport Hotel, E-5 Karayolu, Sefaköy, +90 212 425 73 73, [10]. 5-star hotel located close to the airport. Free airport shuttles are provided.

Caravan park
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With the closure of relatively central Ataköy caravan park, the only place where you can tow your caravan in the city is now located in Selimpaşa, officially a village until recently, though given that there is no open fields inbetween it is practically a suburb of the rapidly expanding city. However, it is still a good 40 km away from central parts of the city but fortunately there are 6-lane highways and motorways connecting it to central Istanbul, as well as fairly frequent public buses (though the actual caravan park is located a little away from public bus lines), so transportation won't be a problem.

- Istanbul Mocamp, Selimpaşa (quit the motorway (TEM/E80/O-3) in 'Selimpaşa' exit, and then follow 'Ortaköy' signs; or if on the coastal highway of D100, make the sharp U-turn towards Ortaköy as soon as entering Selimpaşa; after about driving 200 mt on the road to Ortaköy, turn right towards Ovayenice immediately in front of those five identical villas; after about driving 4 km on the road to Ovayenice, take the right turn towards Poyraz Çiftliği (there is a sign indicating the road), Mocamp is located 800 mt ahead on the left on this road), +90 212 710-11-25, +90-533-564-60-30 (mobile) (aip@istanbulmocamp.com, fax: + 90 212 710-11-25), [11]. Offers hot and cold water, flush toilets, showers, kitchen, electricity hook-up, laundry, swimming pool, children playground, cafe, and pay phones in a setting with a distant sea view. Adults €4 each, no credit cards accepted.

Stay safe
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There are some sections of waterfront park between Bakırköy and old city walls, where you may feel uncomfortable due to the homeless people and inhalant abusers—best avoided at night.

Contact
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