SEKAI Explorer Guide Lisbon (2011)

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Contributor

This book would not be as it is without the great effort of all supporting Wikitravel user. People who are directly involved in this work are:

Aidan, Alexandra, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel, Antonio Avelar, beatriz, benjamin hoppe, Børge Skråmestø, camila pugni, Carson Roen, Christoph Tempich, Claus Hansen, Colin Jensen, David, David Le Brun, Denis Yurkin, D. Guillaime, Diogo Bruno, Durval Martins, Eco84, elio, Evan Prodromou, Francisco, Georgia Young, Graeme Kane, Hugo, jan, Joana Pais, Joao felix, John, Jon Robson, Kaci, Keeley Markham, Keiran, Kevin Gabbert, Klaus, Kristina Killgrove, Levi K., lisbon calling, Manuel Trindade, Martin Přikryl, Michal Stankoviansky, Miguel Duarte, Nathan Charlton, Nick Roux, Niels Elgaard Larsen, Peter Fitzgerald, Raul Oliveira, ricardo cobra, Ricardo, Ricardo Salta, Roberto Jorge Dummar Filho, Rory, R. Quinn, Ryan Fujitani, Ryan Holliday, Sal Uryasev, Simone Bravo, Sofia Costa Madeira, Stefan Ertmann, Stuart Bowden, Todd VerBeek, Tom Holland, Tom Shenhav, Vintage Hostel, Wikitravel user Cael, Wikitravel user Chunkyfish, Wikitravel user FilipaC, Wikitravel user Gerdemb, Wikitravel user Jionaslinen, Wikitravel user João Jerónimo, Wikitravel user Matthias steinkogler, Wikitravel user Mselig, Wikitravel user Nihl, Wikitravel user Ppinheiro, Wikitravel user Rodericoco, Wikitravel user Silly Hat, Wikitravel user Trav4life, Wikitravel user Zepppep, Wikitravel user Zfind, Yitz .

Table of Content:

• Understand

Climate

Orientation

• Get in

By plane

Getting fromorto the airport

By train

By car

By bus

By boat

By bicycle

• Get around

Metro and Buses

By bicycle

By car

Walking

Ferries

Renting a car

Talk

• See

Specialty transport

Architecture

Neighbourhoods

Belém

Museums and galleries

Parks and gardens

Viewpoints and city view

• Do

Work

• Buy

Shopping streets

Malls

Clothes and fashionwear

Unconventional souvenirs

Flea markets

• Eat

Where

Fado

Pastelarias

Budget

Groceries and markets

Mid-range

Alfama

Chiado

Downtown

Docas

Bairro Alto

Splurge

Downtown

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Chiado (Old Town)

Alfama (Old Town)

Bairro Alto (Old Town)

Baixa (Old Town)

Graca

City Center (Marques Pombal to Campo Pequeno)

Mid-range

Splurge

• Stay safe

Crime

Walking and Driving

In case of Emergency

• Contact

• Cope

• Get out

Understand

Like Amman, Bath, Efrat, Iasi, Istanbul, Moscow, Plovdiv, Rome, San Francisco, Seattle, Sheffield, Bergen and Yaoundé, Lisbon is built on seven hills.

The sparkling new Lisboa Ask Me Centre (Pç. do Comércio, Tel. +351 (21) 031-2815, open 9AM - 8PM daily) will help you find accommodation and the staff are happy to dispense advice, maps and brochures. Smaller Ask Me Lisboa kiosks are dotted about the Rossio district and airport and their multilingual staff also have maps and brochures.

The Lisboa Card, which can be purchased from tourist information outlets, offers free use of all public transport in the city and free or reduced price tickets to many museums, galleries and tourist attractions. They can be purchased in 24 hour (adult / child: €14.85 / €7.50), 48 hour (€25.50 / €12.75) and 72 hour (€31 / €15.50) denominations. They are not very good value unless you plan to visit a lot of museums. Especially so if you are a holder of a student identification card (international or national) since the student discounts to these attractions are often the same as for the Lisboa Card.

Climate

Lisbon enjoys a Subtropical-Mediterranean climate, with mild winters and very warm summers. Strongly influenced by the Gulf Stream it is one of the mildest climates in Europe. Among all the metropolises in Europe, here are the warmest winters on the continent, with average temperatures above 15.2 °C (59.4 °F) during the day and 8.9 °C (48.0 °F) at night in the period from December to February. Snow and frost are unknown. The typical summer's season lasts about 6 months, from May to October, with an average temperature of 25 °C (77 °F) during the day and 16.2 °C (61.2 °F) at night, although also in November, March and April sometimes there are temperature above 20 °C (68.0 °F) with an average temperature of 18.5 °C (65 °F) during the day and 11.2 °C (52.2 °F) at night. Rain occurs mainly in winter, the summer is very dry.

Lisbon is very close to the ocean and that brings windy and fast-changing weather, so you'd better bring a jacket or an umbrella with you, at least in winter, spring and autumn.

Orientation

The city stretches along the northern bank of the river Tejo as it flows into the Atlantic Ocean. As the terrain rises north away from the water, steep streets and stairways form the old tangled neighborhoods or give way to green parks in the western suburbs.

Lisbon lacks a defined "downtown", but the the vast Praça do Comércio, facing the river at the base of the pedestrianized grid of Baixa (lower town), occupies a central position. Further northwest from Baixa stretches Lisbon's "Main Street", Avenida da Liberdade, a broad boulevard resplendent in leafy trees, chic hotels and upscale shops, terminating at the circular Praça de Pombal. To the east are old neighborhoods of Mouraria and Alfama, both relatively spared during the Great Earthquake (as they are on a firmer rock) and therefore both retaining the charm of the winding alleys and azulejo-covered crumbling walls (further north lie relatively boring residential quarters). To the west the hill rises steeply into Bairro Alto (upper town; prepare to trek up, or take one of the elevadores, or funiculars); still further west are rapidly gentrifying former docks of Alcantara, dominated on the western end by the supports of the gigantic new bridge over the river, and the suburbs of Santo Amaro and Belém.

Get in

By plane

Portugal's largest international airport is the Aeroporto da Portela [1] (IATA: LIS). It is located between Loures and Lisboa. Alameda das Comunidades Portuguesas, Tel: +350 (21) 841-3000, Fax: +351 (21) 841-3675, [2]

It is the main air hub for TAP Portugal [3], a Star Alliance [4] member airline that covers an extensive network throughout Europe, Africa (Morroco, Algerie, Senegal, Guine Bissau, Mozambique, South Africa, Angola, Cape Verde, S. Tome e Principe) and the Americas (US, Venezuela and Brazil). SATA (Air Açores) [5] provides seasonal service to eastern North America (Boston, Montreal and Toronto).

There are also several other airlines flying into Lisbon, such as Continental Airlines, US Airways, British Airways, Air France, Egypt Air, Turkish Airlines, Lufthansa, Finnair, Iberia, Easyjet and KLM.

Getting fromorto the airport

- Aerobus (line 91) links the airport to the city center. It departs every 20 minutes 7AM-9PM. Aeroshuttle (line 96) links the airport to the city centre via the Sete Rios bus station and the Financial district. Tickets on both cost €3.50 and are valid on all public transportation lines, such as buses and surface trams (but not for metro) for one day. Or take the bus 745 fom Airport to city center for only 1.45

- Bus lines 5, 8, 22, 44, 45, 83. Board fare is €1.45. 7 Colinas transport card (see "Get around" section) can be used which can be bought at the airport post office. Note that you are not allowed to take suitcases on these buses.

- Taxis cost about €10.00 from the airport to the city center. Charge is according to the meter, adding €1.20 per item of luggage. As with many cities, watch out for dishonesty and if you think you are being charged significantly more (paying €45 to get into the city but only €6 back to the airport is not unheard of) ask for their number and a receipt, and make it clear you plan to complain. Any policeman should take care of the situation if there are signs of fraud. Lisbon people, in general, really hate dishonest taxi drivers, so, it will be easy to get a hand in case of a conflict. To avoid fraud, you can buy a taxi-voucher in the airport (€18 - a lot more than the average real meter price) which is good to go anywhere in the center, with luggage. Make sure to ask the driver how much he estimates the fare will be before getting in the taxi, which will diminish the chance for a surprise bounce in the price. If you want to take a taxi, go to the departures area (and never! to the arrivals area), it's more likely to get an honest driver there. Make sure the driver starts the meter when the journey starts.

If arriving by plane in Lisbon, it is better to use public transport to your hotel or final destination, instead of taxis. The airport information desk at Lisbon airport can provide you with all the required information. Taxi drivers at the taxi stand at Lisbon are very infamously unreliable and if they can rip you off, they will. If you do not speak Portuguese or if you don't know the shortest way to your destination, do not use a taxi. If your final destination is less than 1 mile from the airport, taxi drivers will refuse to take you although they are not allowed to refuse destinations. If you insist on taking the taxi, the driver might abuse you verbally and try to rip you off.

By train

There are two big train stations in Lisbon: Santa Apolónia and Gare do Oriente. However, if you are entering Lisbon from the south, you may want to get off at Entrecampos or Sete Rios: their metro stations are a few stops closer to the central and old town.

If arriving from the north (Porto, Gaia) and center (Aveiro, Coimbra) of Portugal use Santa Apolonia, close to Alfama/city centre.

Cais do Sodré is another important train station, connecting Lisbon to Cascais/Estoril coast.

By car

Think twice before using a car in the city unless you are prepared to spend hours in traffic jams. Parking in certain areas can also be a pain. The busy traffic and narrow streets with blind corners can be overwhelming to tourists as well.

By bus

All nearby cities and most major cities in Portugal have direct buses to Lisbon. The main bus terminal is at Sete Rios (metro: Jardim Zoológico). The main operator for long-course buses is Rede Nacional de Expressos (http://www.rede-expressos.pt/default.aspx)

By boat

You can get a boat to Lisbon from the following stations: Barreiro; Trafaria; Montijo; and Cacilhas. It's an excellent sightseeing opportunity crossing the river Tagus to Lisbon.

Many cruise ships dock at several places along the river on the Lisbon side, with variably good access to public transport throughout the city. Many lines offer shuttles to key points nearby.

By bicycle

Cycling within the city is now much easier because of the work the municipality has been putting in with bike lanes, changing car traffic patterns and adding speed bumps etc but of course parts of the town will always be part of the surprisingly hilly outlet of Lisbon. If you plan to cycle these note that Lisbon lacks many amenities for bicyclists, however, as these streets are covered with tram lines, potholes and absent of designated bicycle lanes, so visitors wishing to venture into city traffic by bicycle should have excellent urban riding skills prior to renting a bicycle. Riding on the sidewalk is not recommended. It is advisable to get advice at local bikeshops.

Although better than in recent years there are still very few bike lanes in town the newest, nice and safe stretches from Baixa to Belem along the beautiful river Tejo water front. Car drivers are now often weekend cyclists and way more careful with cyclists than in recent years. Good spots for anyone to cycle safe are along the flat riverfront area streching from Parque das Nacoes, to the central area of Cais Sodre, where you can rent bikes, and particularly from here to Belem. Must do for all travelers or cycling enthusiasts: A scenic and safe bike ride on bike lane from Baixa along waterfront to the historical area of Descobertas-Belem-Jerónimos.

Just outside of Lisbon -you can take for free a bike on trains or ferries- along the coast from Estoril towards the beautiful beach of Guincho, reach Sintra, Cascais or Costa da Caparica.

If you take a bicycle in public transportation beware of the following:

- Metro: During working days you are allowed to carry bicycles in the metro only after 8:00PM. On weekends, it's allowed and it's free of charge.

- Suburban trains: You are allowed to carry bicycles in the trains for free, everyday of the week just be reasonable and avoid rush hour passenger patterns.

- Ferries: Bicycles travel for free, you are allowed but there are strict limitations on the number of bikes allowed depending on ferry lines and ferry boat type, arrive early and you shall avoid disappointment.

- Bike Buses: There are 6 lines of the public bus company "Carris" in which you can put your bike inside.

Bike shops in Lisbon town center are rare. You can find a SportZone near Rossio or in major shopping malls. Ask there for specialist shops, shop assistants are usually very helpful.

For bike the sights and bike rentals you can always check out Bike Iberia (Phone: +351 96 242 3455, [8]) located in Baixa-downtown, next to Cais Sodre and the Praca Comercio square; they are professional, friendly and very helpful on providing tours, bike rentals with delivery, touring equipment, mountain biking gear and native insider's knowledge.

Get around

Metro and Buses

Lisbon has a very efficient public transport network that covers the entire city plus the surrounding areas.

Lisbon's recently refurbished metro system [6] is quick and efficient. While metro announcements are made only in Portuguese, signs are generally bilingual in Portuguese and English.

The extensive bus and electrico (tram) network is run by Carris [7]. There are many ticket outlets, but you can also buy the ticket from the driver or machines on board (the latest only available in some trams).

The best way to pay for city transport is buying a rechargeable card 7 Colinas (Viva Viagem) card. It is valid for metro, trams (electrico) and most buses. The only exception is buses run not by Carris—other bus companies have their own tickets. The card itself can be purchased for as little as €0.50 (this price doesn't include any trips—add as many trips as you want), and remains valid for a year.

You can charge money onto this card in a mode called zapping, which will give you slightly more credit than you pay for (for example, you will have to pay €7.00 for €7.35 of credit). You can then pay for travel by just touching the card to the control point at the barrier on entering and leaving stations or vehicles. Starting a journey will immediately deduct €0.79, the cost of a single-zone trip (which means most of downtown Lisbon). Finishing the trip in another zone will deduct a further €0.31. Switching from metro to bus and vice versa will make you eligible for a slight discount.

When using suburban trains, your tickets are charged onto the same kind of Viva Viagem cards. You cannot have more than one kind of ticket on one card, however, so you will probably need at least two of them, one for zapping (regular bus and metro use), one for suburban travel.

You can buy tickets directly from a bus driver as well, but you will not receive a Viva Viagem card, and pay slightly more, so it makes more sense to buy the ticket before starting the trip.

If you are going to move around heavily on a specific day (more than five trips), an economic choice can be the all-day pass which costs €4 (valid until 1AM). The all-day pass is also valid on city buses and tram lines.

If you will be traveling around a lot, you may wish to get a multiple-day ticket.

If you plan to be in Lisbon for an extended time (1 week and more), you can purchase an unlimited pass that covers buses, metro, and funiculars at the Carris station in Santo Amaro. It's €10 for the Lisboa Viva card, plus €28.10 for a one-month unlimited pass. You can also get them in week-long or two-week unlimited denominations. Bring a photo ID (passport) and cash.

By bicycle

Cycling within the city is now much easier because of the work the municipality has been putting in with bike lanes, changing car traffic patterns and adding speed bumps etc but of course parts of the town will always be part of the surprisingly hilly outlet of Lisbon. If you plan to cycle these note that Lisbon lacks many amenities for bicyclists, however, as these streets are covered with tram lines, potholes and absent of designated bicycle lanes, so visitors wishing to venture into city traffic by bicycle should have excellent urban riding skills prior to renting a bicycle. Riding on the sidewalk is not recommended. It is advisable to get advice at local bikeshops.

Although better than in recent years there are still very few bike lanes in town the newest, nice and safe stretches from Baixa to Belem along the beautiful river Tejo water front. Car drivers are now often weekend cyclists and way more careful with cyclists than in recent years. Good spots for anyone to cycle safe are along the flat riverfront area streching from Parque das Nacoes, to the central area of Cais Sodre, where you can rent bikes, and particularly from here to Belem. Must do for all travelers or cycling enthusiasts: A scenic and safe bike ride on bike lane from Baixa along waterfront to the historical area of Descobertas-Belem-Jerónimos.

Just outside of Lisbon -you can take for free a bike on trains or ferries- along the coast from Estoril towards the beautiful beach of Guincho, reach Sintra, Cascais or Costa da Caparica.

If you take a bicycle in public transportation beware of the following:

- Metro: During working days you are allowed to carry bicycles in the metro only after 8:00PM. On weekends, it's allowed and it's free of charge.

- Suburban trains: You are allowed to carry bicycles in the trains for free, everyday of the week just be reasonable and avoid rush hour passenger patterns.

- Ferries: Bicycles travel for free, you are allowed but there are strict limitations on the number of bikes allowed depending on ferry lines and ferry boat type, arrive early and you shall avoid disappointment.

- Bike Buses: There are 6 lines of the public bus company "Carris" in which you can put your bike inside.

Bike shops in Lisbon town center are rare. You can find a SportZone near Rossio or in major shopping malls. Ask there for specialist shops, shop assistants are usually very helpful.

For bike the sights and bike rentals you can always check out Bike Iberia (Phone: +351 96 242 3455, [8]) located in Baixa-downtown, next to Cais Sodre and the Praca Comercio square; they are professional, friendly and very helpful on providing tours, bike rentals with delivery, touring equipment, mountain biking gear and native insider's knowledge.

By car

Think twice before using a car in the city unless you are prepared to spend hours in traffic jams. Parking in certain areas can also be a pain. The busy traffic and narrow streets with blind corners can be overwhelming to tourists as well.

Walking

If your accommodation is in the center of the city, walking is a great alternative. Many of the attractions of the city, such as the Castelo and the Alfama and Bairro Alto districts, are within easy walking distance of the Baixa.

If you become lost or cannot find the location you are looking for, try to locate the nearest Carris bus or tram stop. Most of these stops (not all) have a very good map of the city with your current location clearly marked on the map. All the prominent tourist sites in Lisbon are also shown along with an index at the bottom of the map. A quick consultation with one of these Carris maps should point you back in the right direction.

You may also use the funiculars and elevadores (Santa Justa's). Day passes for public transportation are also valid for those.

Ferries

Ferries connect Lisbon to the suburbs across the Tejo river in the south. Taking a ferry to Cacilhas is a good opportunity to see Lisbon from the water. A ferry is paid for just like a metro trip; you can even use your zapping Viva viagem card.

Renting a car

With Budget: If you choose to return a car near your hotel, don't rely that an agent come right in the agreed-upon time: for an agreed 12pm return he can easily arrive at 9am (and will come again upon your call).

Talk

As with the rest of Portugal, Portuguese is the main language in Lisbon. However, most younger people know enough English for basic communication, and it is possible to get by speaking only English. Spanish is widely understood, though few are fluent in it, and many locals will respond more readily to English than to Spanish. Nevertheless, any attempt to speak Portuguese is always appreciated, and even simple things like basic greetings will often draw smiles and encouragement from locals.

See

- Cristo Rei, (Catch the ferry to Cacilhas from Cais do Sobre then grab Bus 101 (€1.35 return)), [9]. 9AM - 6PM. Similar to the Christ statue in Rio de Janeiro, this statue stands over 100 meters tall on the opposite bank of the Tejo River from downtown Lisbon. Views from the top of the statue are breathtaking, although the elevator up will cost you €5. 5 €.

Specialty transport

- Tram 28. Instead of paying for a ride on one of the costly tourist trams, try Tram 28. Tram (or "Eléctrico" in the Portuguese) Line 28 is one of only three traditional tram lines that still operate in Lisbon. These trams, which until the late-1980's ran all through-out Lisbon, were manufactured between 1936 and 1947. Tram 28 winds its way through the "Old Town" of Lisbon (dating from the 17th century) beginning in Graça then down to the Alfama and to the Baixa then up through Chiado to Bairro Alto and then down to Campo Ourique, taking you by many of Lisbon's most famous and interesting sites including monuments, churches and gardens. The trip is hilly, noisy and hectic but it affords many beautiful glimpses of the city. And, although the tram can sometimes be overrun with tourists, you will definitely get a flavor of the locals, as many "Lisboetas" commute daily on these historical trams. Tickets cost €2,50 per journey and can be purchased on-board or at a vending machine (note that these machines do not accept notes, and are sometime even out of change, so make sure you have the correct change!) which is cheaper. From start to finish the ride takes around 30 minutes. Beware of pickpockets.

- Funiculars

- Santa Justa's Elevator, Rua Aurea & Rua de Santa Justa, +351 (21) 361-3054. Located downtown, this elevator was designed by a follower of French engineer Gustav Eiffel and connects the downtown to the Trindade, located several meters uphill. 7 Colinas valid.

Architecture

- Castelo de São Jorge (St. George's Castle), (Walk up the hill from Alfama or take bus 37), +351 218 800 620, [10]. 9AM - 9PM (March - Oct) and 9AM-6PM (Nov-Feb). Located up the hill, with a great view over the city and the river. If you have the energy, get there by walking from downtown, going through the fantastic old neighborhood of Alfama. €7 with student discount available.

- Ponte 25 de Abril. This sister bridge of the San Francisco – Oakland Bay Bridge was designed by the same architect in 1966 to connect Lisbon with the Setubal peninsula across the Tagus (Tejo) River. Formerly known as the Salazar Bridge, it was renamed after the Carnation Revolution, which on April 25, 1974 ended the dictatorship!

- Ponte Vasco da Gama. It is the longest bridge in Europe (including viaducts), and ninth longest in the world, with a total length of 17.2 km (10.7 mi), including 0.829 km (0.5 mi) for the main bridge, 11.5 km (7.1 mi) in viaducts, and 4.8 km (3.0 mi) in dedicated access roads.

- Aqueduto das Aguas Livres. This is a historic aqueduct in the city of Lisbon, Portugal. It is one of the most remarkable examples of 18th-century Portuguese engineering, including the largest stone arch in the world. The main course of the aqueduct covers 18 km, but the whole network of canals extends through nearly 58 km. The Mãe d'Água (Mother of the Water) reservoir of the Amoreiras, the largest of the water reservoirs, was finished in 1834. This reservoir, with a capacity of 5,500 m³ of water, was designed by Carlos Mardel. It is now deactivated and can be visited as part of the Museu da Água (Water Museum).

Neighbourhoods

- Rossio. Rossio is the main square in Lisbon, the equivalent of Madrid's Puerta del Sol, Tokyo's Shibuya or London's Trafalgar Square, which is a common meeting place for locals. This is a must visit for all visitors to Lisbon to experience city life.

- Chiado, [11]. Take a stroll along the historical streets of this elegant shopping district, stopping for a cup of coffee with the statue of Fernando Pessoa, Portugal's great Modernist poet. Head uphill to Bairro Alto, for stunning views of the city and some wild partying in Lisbon's most popular nightclub district.

- Downtown (Baixa). This part of the city was completely rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake by the Marquês de Pombal. The planned layout, greatly different from what you will see in the more ancient neighborhoods, is a testimony to the ideas of the Enlightenment.

- Alfama. This neighborhood still bears signs of the Moorish presence in the city, with the buildings very close to each other, and very irregular streets. It's very atmospheric and a great spot in which to wander around.

- Praça do Comércio, (Take the metro to Terreiro do Paço Station), [12]. This magnificent plaza, facing the river, is the beginning of Lisboa's downtown. It is also known as 'Terreiro do Paço', meaning 'Grounds of the Palace', relating to its function before the Great Earthquake of 1755.

Belém

This monument-packed neighborhood is a must-see place.

Take tram 15 to the west, which follows the coast line. Check the route map inside the tram: it helps to find a right station for most famous of Belém attractions. Or take the Cascais suburban train (line "Cascais todos"; the express trains don't stop in Belém) to Belém and walk to the attractions. The extensive bus network also serves Belém from various departure points around the city and can be less busy than the tram.

The neighbourhood features:

- Belem Tower (Torre de Belém). The likes of the tower. Entry fee €5.

- Jerónimos Monastery, Praça do Império, 1400-206 Lisboa, 21 362 00 34, [13]. Open 10AM-5PM in winter, 10AM-6PM in summer. Free entry to the church, €7 for the rest of the monastery.

- Monument to the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos). Entry fee €4.

- CCB (Belém Cultural Center), [14]. The modern CCB is holding a permanent contemporany art exhibition, from the Berardo Collection - it features works from Picasso, Dalí, Duchamp, Magritte, Andy Warhol, among others.

- Coach Museum (Museu dos Coches), [15]. Housed in the former riding school of the palace, don't miss the world's largest collection of coaches and royal vehicles.

- Statue to Afonso de Albuquerque. In front of the former Royal Palace of Belém, now the Presidential Palace, there is a massive statue looking out to sea, representing Afonso de Albuquerque, second ruler of Portuguese India in the early 16th century.

A stroll around its many gardens enjoying the river's bright blue is also a must.

Museums and galleries

- Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, Rua das Janelas Verdes, [16]. Tuesday 2-6pm; Wednesday to Sunday 10am-6pm; Monday closed. Portugal's impressive national art collection, including 14-19th century European painting, artefacts of Portuguese contact with the East and Africa and a collection of ecclesiastical treasures. Highlights include Dürer's St Jerome, Hieronymus Bosch's Temptations of St Antony, Nuno Gonçalves' Adoration of St Vincent, and 16th century Japanese paintings of Portuguese traders.

- The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, Avenida de Berna, 45A (take the metro to Sao Sebastiao or Praca de Espanha Sations), 21 7823000, [17]. 10AM-5:45PM; closed Mon. Created from the personal collection of Calouste Gulbenkian, an Armenian who longed to see all his treasures displayed in a museum. A nice assortment of Egyptian artifacts, along with paintings by masters such as Rembrandt, Manet, Monet, Renoir, and Cassat. The museum's gardens are worth a visit in and of themselves, as a little oasis in the middle of downtown Lisbon. 5EUR (permanent+temporary exhibition); half price for students under 25 with ID, holders of the European Youth Card (Euro26) and those aged 65 or over; free entry on Sunday and any other day for those under 12.

- Fundação Arpad Szenes / Vieira da Silva, Praça das Amoreiras, 56/58, +351 (21) 3880044/53 (fasvs@fasvs.pt, fax: 351 21 3880039), [18]. Mon-Sat 11AM-7PM, Sun 10AM-6PM. This museum is installed in the restored 18th-century former Royal Silk Factory. It permanent collection covers a wide time period of the works of 20th-century painters Arpad Szenes and Maria Helena Vieira da Silva, and regularly hosts exhibits by their contemporaries. Adults €2.50, students €1.25, kids under 14 free.

- Museu da Electricidade (Electricity Museum), Av. de Brasília, Central Tejo, +351 21 002 81 30/90 (museudaelectricidade@edp.pt, fax: +351 21 002 81 04), [19]. Tu-Su 10AM-6PM. Free.

- Museu da Agua (Water Museum), [20]. Entrance fee of €1.5 to €2.5, depending on age or discount cards you may use.

- Lisbon metro, [21]. Most of the metro system is a free art gallery. You'll find art by contemporary artists inspired by the stations' surrounding area. Check the subway webpage for more details on this curiosity. The red line is the newest one and has the best pieces of art.

- Museu do Azulejo, [22]. Museu Nacional do Azulejo is one of the most important national museums, for its singular collection, Azulejo (Tile), an artistic expression which differentiates Portuguese culture, and for the unique building where its installed, former Madre de Deus Convent, founded in 1509 by Queen Dona Leonor.

- Museu Colecção Berardo, Centro Cultural de Belem, [23]. 10:00 AM - 7:00 PM. The Berardo Collection Museum is a museum that houses modern and contemporary art, togheter with modern, temporary exhibits. The permanent collection of the museum consist of the Berardo Collection, which is made up of modern en contemporary art, with major art movements like abstract expressionism, Abstraction-Création, action painting, body Art, constructivism, cubism, De Stijl, digital art, experimental art, geometric abstraction, kinetic art, minimal art, neo-expressionism, neo-plasticism, neo-Realism, op art, photography, photorealism, pop art, realism, suprematism, surrealism. The collection also consist of many important artists like Piet Mondrian, Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Pablo Picasso and Jackson Polock. Free admission.

- Museu da Marinha, Centro Cultural de Belem, 213620019, [24]. Open 10AM-5PM in winter, 10AM-6PM in summer. The interesting Maritime Museum is one of the most important in Europe, evoking Portugal's domination of the seas. Its colossal 17,000 items are installed in the west wing of Jeronimos Monastery, and include model ships from the Age of Discovery onward. The oldest exhibit is a wooden figure representing the Archangel Raphael that accompanied Vasco da Gama on his voyage to India. Entry fee €4.

- Pavilhao do Conhecimento, [25]. The Pavilion of Knowledge - Ciência Viva is an interactive science and technology museum that aims to make science accessible to all, stimulating experimentation and exploration of the physical world.

Parks and gardens

- Jardim Zoológico, Estrada De Benfiea 158-160 (Metro:Take the Blue Line to the Jardim Zooligico. Buses: A variety of buses stop here including 16, 31, 54, 58, 701 and 755), +351 (21) 7232-920, [26]. 10AM - 8PM (21st March - 30th Sept.) and 10AM - 6PM (1st Oct. - 20th March). A zoo that is fairly pricey, but has a variety of exotic animals featuring sea-lions and dolphins. €15.

- Parque das Nações, On Av. Dom Joao II (Metro: Oriente Station. Train: Gare Do Oriente Station.), +351 (21) 8919-898, [27]. Built for the 1998 World Expo, the eastern side of town (take the Metro to Oriente) is a change from downtown. It includes:

- Oceanarium, +351 218 917 002, [28]. One of the world's largest oceanariums. Admission 12.00EUR.

- Pavilhao do Conhecimento, +351 218 917 100, [29]. Admission €3.00-€7.00.

- Lisbon Botanical Garden, Rua da Escola Politécnica, 58 (Metro: Rato Sation), [30]. Daily 9AM - 8PM (Summer) 9AM - 6PM (Winter). The botanical garden of Ajuda is one of the oldest gardens in Europe and is considered the first in Portugal. After the earthquake that occurred in 1755, the homeless Portuguese royal family decided to build a new royal residence at Ajuda but also gardens around it. This 10 acre garden was laid out in from 1858-1873.

- Jardim Botanico (Botanic Gardens), (between the Avenida da Liberdade and Bairro Alto). A hidden gem. It was created several hundred years ago, by a King of Portugal at the time of the Discoveries. The story goes that this King wanted one of every type of plant in the world, and although that's unlikely, there is a huge collection dating back by three or four centuries which is worth checking out. Also some weird and wonderful bizarre grafted trees - the roots hang down like fingers and toes where one tree has been grafted onto another, sometimes completely different, species. And there's something quite eerie about seeing plants or huge trees from completely different climates growing next to each other in apparent harmony. A great place to take a picnic - this green oasis is completely surrounded by city but even the city sounds filter out. Entrance 1.80EUR adults, discounts for kids, OAPS and students.

Viewpoints and city view

- Armazéns do Chiado shopping mall (see details in Buy): top floor restaurants and cafes have fantastic city views.

Do

Go out at night to the central Bairro Alto, or 'High Neighborhood'. Just up the hill from Chiado, this is the place to go out in town. In the early evening, go to a fado-themed restaurant near the Praca Camoes, and head upwards as the evening goes on. If you're in Lisbon on the night preceding a Feriado or public holiday, you have to check this out. Tiny little streets which are empty in the daytime become crammed walkways which are difficult to get through.

- Cine Theatro Gymnasium, Rua da Misericórdia nº 14, 2º Andar 1200-273 Lisboa, (+ 351) 210 121 000, [31]. Fado In Chiado - Daily show (except on Sundays) with a duration of 40 minutes. Voices that sing the Fado to the sound of Portuguese guitar. "Fado in Chiado 'encounter with the tradition in the historic Lisbon. A show that reveals the Fado as World Heritage, to hear and feel, the voice of the Portuguese soul.

- Have a picnic in Jardim Botanico (see details in "See" section).

The revista is a kind of theatre that was born in Lisbon. It's one of the things that is essential to see when you visit the city. You can only find it in one place: the Parque Mayer. Nowadays only one of the theatres is working:

- Teatro Maria Vitória [32] (telephone.: 213 475 454/213 470 468) -

Work

Members of the EU can work in Lisbon (and the whole of Portugal) without a work visa. Citizens of non-EU countries must obtain a work visa.

Buy

Shops are open a little later than other places in Europe, usually around 9:30AM-10PM, and the lunch breaks can be quite long, usually from 1PM to 3PM.

You can buy a Lisbon Shopping Card [33], which gives you 5% to 20% discounts at about 200 major stores in Baixa, Chiado and Av. Liberdade for a period of 24 hours (card costs EUR3.70) or 72 hours (card costs EUR5.70).

Shopping streets

- Baixa: From Praça do Comércio (aka Terreiro do Paço) to the Restauradores, the Baixa is the old shopping district in the city. It includes pedestrian Rua Augusta which has the most boring and mass-visitor tourist stores, and several European chain clothing stores like Zara, H&M, Campers.

- Chiado: a number of independent shops and services and well known brands such as Hugo Boss, Vista Alegre, Tony & Guy, Benetton, Sisley, Pepe Jeans, Levi's and Colcci, which makes Chiado, together with Avenida da Liberdade, one of the Top 10 places to shop in the world. Some informal brands like Crumpler are also there.

- Avenida da Liberdade: Louis Vuitton, Calvin Klein, Timberland, Massimo Dutti, Armani, Burberrys and Adolfo Dominguez are just some of the shops you'll find across this avenue, which is not just one of the most beautiful and wide in the city, but also one of the fanciest with splurge hotels and restaurants.

Malls

While most stores are closed on Sundays, many malls are open 7 days a week. They usually open around 9:30AM and close by 11PM or midnight, although the film theaters within them usually run a late session starting after midnight.

- Centro Comercial Colombo, Av. Colegio Militar (Metro: Take the Blue Line to Colegio Militar/Luz Station), +351 (21) 771 36 36, [34]. 9AM - Midnight. One of the largest malls in Europe, this shopping and leisure complex also houses dozens of restaurants, a bowling alley, health club, multiplex cinema, funfair with rides including a roller coaster, and a go-cart track.

- Armazéns do Chiado, Rua do Carmo 2 (Metro: Baixa-Chiado Station), [35]. A massive mall that draws a young hip crowd shopping for books, CDs, and DVD.

- Centro Comercial Vasco da Gama, (Metro: Oriente Station), [36]. A large mall in the Parque Expo.

- Centro Comercial Amoreiras, Av. Eng. Duarte Pacheco (Metro: Marquês de Pombal Station), [37]. The city's oldest mall in eye-catching post-modern towers housing international chains.

- El Corte Inglés, Av. António Augusto Aguiar, 413 (Metro: Sao Sebastiao Station), [38]. Big department store with cinema and supermarket, a bit pricey but with good quality items.

- Dolce Vita Tejo, Avenida Cruzeiro Seixas,Amadora (Metro: Take the Blue Line to Amadora Station, and take a bus from there as the mall is beyond walking distance.), [39]. One of the biggest Shopping Mall in Europe.

Clothes and fashionwear

- Ramos & Silva / Optica do Chiado (André Ópticas chain), Rua Garrett 63/65, +351 213 264 000, [40]. 10-19 ?Mon-Sat. A good selection of designer eyewear from a dozen of brands (Lindberg, DSquareD etc).

Unconventional souvenirs

- Rua Anchieta, 11 (Chiado), +351 21 346 50 73 (avidaportuguesa@gmail.com), [41]. Vintage and nostalgic products and brands.

Flea markets

- Feira da Ladra, Campo de Santa clara (Take Tram 28). 6AM-5PM Tuesday and Saturday. A lively out door market offering both new and used products. Markets of this type have pleased bargain hunters since the 12th century in Lisbon and the Feira da Ladra name has been around since the 17th century.

Eat

Portuguese dining rituals tend to follow the Mediterranean siesta body clock.

Most restaurants are very small, family run and generally cheap. Some of them have a sheet on the door with the "pratos do dia" (dishes of the day) written on it. These dishes are usually cheaper and fresher than the rest of menu there, and unless you're looking for something specific, they're the right choice.

During the dinner the waiter will probably bring you some unrequested starter dishes (called couvert): as those are not free, feel free not to touch them and they will not be charged on your bill (but check it!).

Where

For Portuguese traditional cuisine at its finest, head to the area of Chiado.

Tourist traps with laminated menus and meal deals are mostly concentrated in the Baixa area.

It has an exception, however: Rua das Portas de Santo Antão (north-east from Praca dos Restauradores, parallel to it)--it's the seafood strip, and home to the best greasy spit-roasted chicken this side of Louisiana at the Bonjardim restaurant (Santo Antão, 11), appropriately nicknamed Rei dos Frangos.

For a familiar taste at one of the many chain eateries, head to Doca de Santo Amaro (train/tram 15 station Alcantara-Mar) and Parque das Nações (metro Oriental).

All the culinary and clubbing kudos is right now concentrated in Doca de Jardim de Tabaco (piece of river waterfront right under Castelo de Sao Jorge).

Quality dishes for a high price are in well-to-do Lapa.

Tour groups primarily feel at home in Alfama.

Traditional Portugese restaurants are in Bairro Alto, scattered abundantly through its quirky narrow streets.

Fado

Make sure that you dine at a restaurant that plays traditional fado music. Beware that you'll pay more than in normal restaurants, and the food and drink quality may not be up to the price, you're paying for the music experience.

Pastelarias

Try the magnificent pastéis de nata at any pastelaria; or better yet, visit the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém (Casa Pasteis De Belem) [42] (Rue de belem 84; +351 21 363 74 23; take eléctrico #15 from Praça do Comércio, or the Cascais suburban train line from Cais do Sodré station, to Belém stop). They are served right out of the oven there, with the side of confectioner's sugar and cinnamon; as you navigate through the azulejo-decorated labyrinthine passages of the expansive shop, stop to look at the workers behind glass panels turning the endless stream of these delicacies, just baked, each in its own little ramekin, over onto the waiting trays. These are absolutely a must eat and you can't possibly regret it.

Budget

Groceries and markets

Grocery stores are closed on Sundays after 1PM, except (a) those smaller than 2000m2 or (b) from November 1st to December 31st.

- Mercado da Ribeira, Avenida 24 de Julho (Cais do Sodré). 7AM-1PM except Sunday. A massive farmers market open in the mornings. This is a great place to buy snacks for the day while traveling on a budget. Pick up nuts, fruit, veggies, cheese, bread or meat or delight your travel mate with some beautiful flowers.

Mid-range

- NH Liberdade, Avenida da Liberdade, 180 B, 1250-146 Lisbon, +351 (21) 351 4060 Fax: +351 (21) 314 3674, [78]. Nice hotel located right in the center of the city.

- Travelpark hotel, Avenida Almirante Reis nº 64, 1150-020 Lisboa, +351 (21) 810 2100 (reservas@hoteltravelpark.com), [79]. A brand new hotel that sits in the heart of Av. Almirante Reis. Just five minutes away from Lisbon International Airport and with underground station at doorstep. Online booking

- Vila Galé Ópera, Tvª Conde da Ponte, 1300-141, +351 (21)360 5400 (opera@vilagale.pt, fax: +351 (21) 360 5450), [80]. The hotel basically stands right by the Tagus River. Adjoins Lisbon’s Congress Centre and the lively nightlife of Lisbon’s Docas area. Online booking

- America Diamond's Hotel, Rua Tomás Ribeiro 47, +351 213 521 177 (info@americadiamondshotel.com, fax: +351 213 531 476), [81]. Was totally reconstructed in 2006 on a historical building, keeping only its original façade, contrasting with its modern interior, equipped with 60 comfortable rooms of different typologies. Rooms starting at €50.

Alfama

- A Tasquinha (from donwtown, turn left near Igreja de Santa Luzia to Rua do Limoeiro; then turn right to Rua de Santiago. Pass Camidas de Santiago. Look for outdoor red chairs and tables, white umbrellas), Largo Contador Mor 5/7. Great food; owner and guest signers perform fado on Fri evenings without charging extra for it; many outdoor tables; great red Sangria. Try bacalau with potatoes and onion in cream sauce--excellent change from ubiquitous "rice/chips with grilled everything".

- Chapito. Dinner: from 7:30pm. Great views are the main feature if you reserve terrace seat in advance. Good atmosphere; international-menu food is tasty but nothing special.

- DeliDelux‎, Avenida Infante D. Henrique Armazém B - Loja 8, +351 218 862 070 (geral@delidelux.pt), [44]. Tue-Fri: 12pm-12am; Sat 10am-12am; Sun 10am-8pm. Breakfasts in a contemporary setting; pleasant views. Average bill: 20eur.

- Farol de Santa Luzia‎, Largo de Santa Luzia, 5 (near 28/12 tram stops), +351 218 863 884 (info@farolsantaluzia.com, fax: 218 885 356), [45]. Mon-Sat: 11am-23pm. Great place to have typical Portuguese food before climbing to Castelo S.Jorge. ~ 20€/p.

- Malmequer Bemmequer, Rua de Sao Miguel 23-25, 351 21 887 65 35, [46]. Closed on Mon.. Friendly and inexpensive; long menu of traditional Portugese dishes.

- Pois Cafe, Rua S. João da Praça N. 93-95 (on the side street of cathedral Sé), +351 (21) 886-2497 (pois@poiscafe.com), [47]. 11am-8pm, Tue-Sun. It's a place to relax, read a book, drink a coffee and plan you way around Lisbon. Also offers toasts, pastas, quiches and salads; features (late) breakfasts.

Chiado

- Cervejaria da Trindade, R. Nova da Trindade 20C (Chiado neighbourhood), 213423506 (trindade.chiado@cervejariatrindade.pt), [48]. Everyday : 10AM-1:30AM. Excellent restaurant-brewery that has several kinds of Sagres beer and also Guinness. Beware with the appetizer that is charged for each item that is consumed separately. Nice codfish plates. €15-25.

Downtown

- Gambrinus (restaurant / bar / brewery), Rua das Portas de Santo Antao, 23 (Four Seasons Hotel Ritz), +351 21 342 14 66 (info@gambrinuslisboa.com), [57]. 12:30pm-1:30am. One of the most chic places in the city. Highly recognized in Lisbon as something of an institution, it attracts an eclectic crowd where the appeal is food and a great selection of beers, wines and spirits. Features smoking room, private parking with a doorman.

Docas

- Arroz Maria, Doca de Sto Amaro (take train from Cais do Sodre, ride to Alcântara-Mar station), +351 (21) 395-4677. Spanish food restaurant with fabulous seafood with a great view of the Tejo river and the Ponte de 25 Abril. Excellent service and really fresh food. Don't miss the tamboril (monkfish) with the tomato and asparagus sauce. Really worth the effort to get there, the Docas area is fairly newly developed, and the railway line makes it hard to find a way across the main road, but with determination it's a great spot to go to. It's one of a number of restaurants of varying types along this stretch of the quayside, but it stands out for quality and value. Check it out before it gets 'trendy'. €25 (two courses with wine and port).

Bairro Alto

- Terra, Rua da Palmeira 15 (near Jardim do Príncipe Real), +351 707 108 108, [50]. Probably the best vegetarian restaurant in Lisbon and also the nicest in terms of ambience and service. They have a menu in English and will help with vegan choices or people with other dietary restrictions. Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends but you will always be served even if you arrive with the place full and have to wait for a while. Weather permitting try to get a table "outside", which means a wonderful and secluded back terrace. €15-20 (Vegetarian Buffet plus drink and/or dessert).

- Sul, Rua do Norte 13, +351 21 346 24 49. Delicious Mediterranean and South American food. Good wine and drinks list. Helpful staff will translate the menu, which is written on the blackboard, and happily cater for vegetarians. Gets packed in the evenings so bookings recommended if you're eating from 9PM onwards. No outdoor tables. €30 (''2 courses with wine and cocktail'').

- Brasuca, Rua Joao Pereira da Rosa 7, +351 (21) 322-07 40. Great Brazilian food served by friendly staff.

- Lisboa à Noite, Rua as Gaveas, 69, 21 346 85 57 (fax: 213 460 222), [51]. A restaurant with a variety of traditional Portuguese dishes very appreciated by the tourists. Friendly environment, great service. Make sure you try the appetizers.

- Ali a Papa, Rua da Atalaia 95, +351 (21) 347-4143, [52]. Dinner only: 7pm-4am. Mediocre quality and rude service, but has veggie options. €20 (two courses with house wine).

- Calcutá, Rua da Atalaia 28, +351 (21) 346 -8165, [53]. Decent Indian food, but far from the best. The location is great though for starting a night out on the town. Ask for the shoot drinks! €25 (two courses with house wine).

- Imperio dos sentidos, Rua da Atalaia, 35, Bairro Alto, 21 343 18 22, [54]. A popular restaurant that offers a diverse menu of traditional Portuguese, international and vegetarian cuisine. The difficulty will be in choosing what to eat as this mid-range restaurant’s menu is both broad and deep in terms of tantalising dishes on offer. The solution for a couple is to agree on the dishes and swap over half-way in order to double the gastronomic experience. Their speciality “Champagne” Sangria is a must do. The opening hours accommodate those that like to eat before 9pm and for those that dinner is an after 10pm affair. The waiting staff speak English and will humorously and patiently (with one raised eyebrow) assist you navigate your attempts to order in Portuguese. If you have the funds, there are various works of art on the walls available for purchase. Open from 7:30pm to 2am; Closed on 2nd Wednesday

Splurge

- Hotel Avenida Palace, (+351) 21 321 81 00 (reservas@hotelavenidapalace.pt, fax: (+351) 21 342 28 84), [82]. Located in the emblematic Restauradores Square, in the heart of the city, The Avenida Palace Hotel is a symbol of charm and elegance in more than one hundred years of its story. This neoclassical, imposing building and its first class refined service turned it into one of the most selected destinations of high society and prominent individualities all over the world.

- Lapa Palace, Rua do Pau de Bandeira, 4, (+351) 21 394 94 94 (reservations@lapa-palace.com, fax: +(351) 21 395 0665), [83]. Property of Orient-Express Hotels, Trains & Cruises. A luxury palace hotel in one of Lisbon's seven hills, with gardens and pools, heated all year long. Member of The Leading Hotels of the World. With one of the best spas in Lisbon, gourmet food (its restaurant is considered by the Zagat Guide as one of the best in Lisbon) and one of best Concierge services in the country.

- Pestana Palace, Rua Jau, nº 54, (+351) 21 361 56 00, [84]. Located in an old Palace, has a wonderful garden and luxury spa. Extremely comfortable, and well worth the €220 per night if you book in advance and online.

- Eurostars Das Letras, Rua Castilho, 6-12. 1250 - 069. Lisboa. Portugal (Five minutes walk from Avenida metro station, ten minutes walk from the AirportBus stop at Marques de Pombal), +351 21 357 3094 (reservas@eurostarsdasletras.com). checkin: 10:00H. A new, modern hotel situated in the central Rato district. Despite its five-star rating, double rooms can be had for a very reasonable rate if booked in advanced. The hotel offers free wireless internet for guests along with two laptops with internet access. The hotel is very well situated - one street away from Avenida de Liberdad, a few minutes from the Avenida metro station and a short walk from Baixa / Chiado.

- Tiara Park Atlantic Lisboa, Rua Castilho, 149. 1099 - 034. Lisboa. Portugal, +351 21 381 87 00 (reservations.lisboa@tiara-hotels.com), [85]. checkin: 15:00H. Luxury hotel with 331 rooms each decorated as one of the four elements. Glass-and-concrete building, but great for travelling with children if you don't mind 10 minutes walk to the downtown. Private parking; close to park and a large public playground (Parque Eduardo VII). Double: rack rate start at $150; special offers from online aggregators can be as low as $90.

Downtown

- Gambrinus (restaurant / bar / brewery), Rua das Portas de Santo Antao, 23 (Four Seasons Hotel Ritz), +351 21 342 14 66 (info@gambrinuslisboa.com), [57]. 12:30pm-1:30am. One of the most chic places in the city. Highly recognized in Lisbon as something of an institution, it attracts an eclectic crowd where the appeal is food and a great selection of beers, wines and spirits. Features smoking room, private parking with a doorman.

Drink

Lisbon is known for its lively nightlife. For going out, stroll around the old neighborhood of Bairro Alto ('high neighborhood') for an after-dinner caipirinha or ginjinha and people-watching. Its small streets, full of people, are packed with high variety of bars. Friday and Saturday nights are the busiest, but the Bairro is rocking every night until dawn.

Alcântara, Santos, Parque das Nações, and the castle area are all neighborhoods with a thriving nightlife. The whole area near the river/Atlantic, known as the docas, is a huge hub for nightlife, as Lisbon has never lost its ties to the sea.

- Garrafeira Alfaia, Rua Diário de Notícias 125, +351 (21) 343-30 79 (garrafeira.alfaia@clix.pt). Nice wine bar with an impressive selection of good wines and appetizers. Good place to spend the late afternoon, before going out to dinner.

- Chafariz do Vinho, Rua da Mae d'Agua., 21 342 20 79. Perfect place to linger over a glass of wine at this wine bar that is under the arches of the city's former acquaducts. With a great selection of appetizers that are matched perfectly with the wine, it's a pleasant way to spend an evening.

- Ritz Bar, Four Seasons Hotel, Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca, 88, 21 381 14 00. Designed by Pierre Yves-Rochon, you'll enjoy deep, sumptous sofas and an impressive collection of contemporary art displayed on the walls. And with decorated bartender Paulo Costa serving you drinks, its a great place to peruse a crowd of sophisticated clientele.

Sleep

Choosing location: If you are in Lisbon for sightseeing (especially for your first visit), the best location is along the route of tram #28 (see official map of the route [58]). This especially works if you are with a baby stroller, as it will save from huge part of hill-climbing.

Finding accommodation when you arrive: Finding a decent sleeping place in the center should not be a big problem. There is a tourist service center in the airport, where the nice ladies will book a room for you. Expect to pay between €45 and €60 for a double room.

Budget

Chiado (Old Town)

- Lisbon Old Town Hostel, Rua do Ataíde, 26A (5 minutes from Bairro Alto. Metro: Baixa/Chiado or Caiso do Sobre), +351 21 3465248 (lisbonoldtownhostel@gmail.com, fax: +351 (21)346-5248), [59]. A new hostel, opened in 2007, catering to the young hip crowd with event listings on their website, free computer and internet access in the lobby and WiFi through out the hostel. 15€-22€.

- Shiado Hostel, Rua Anchieta 5 - 3º - 1200-023 Lisboa (2 mins walking from Baixa-Chiado Metro station), +351 213429227 (shiado.hostel@gmail.com), [60]. checkin: 14; checkout: 12. Located in the Chiado area, the very heart of Lisbon, a charming and relaxing hostel. Opened in march 2009 13€-30€.

- Poets Hostel, Rua Nova da Trindade, 2 - 5º - 1200 Lisboa (30 seconds walk from Baixa-Chiado Metro station), +351 213461058 (lisbonpoetshostel@gmail.com), [61]. checkin: 14; checkout: 11. The building is just next the Chiado exit of the Baixa-Chiado metro station. Very helpful staff, clean rooms, dinners and activities are organized by the hostel. Big common room with TV and free internet. Dorms and privtes available.

- Hotel Borges, Rua Garret, 108, +351 (21) 346 19 51, [62]. Spacious rooms with satellite TV. Very central, but somewhat expensive for the service. Rooms starting at €84.

Alfama (Old Town)

- Sé Guesthouse, Rua de Sao Joao da Praca, 97 - 1100-519 Lisboa, (+351) 21 886 4400. checkin: 14:00; checkout: 12:00. This 5 room guesthouse is a charming and affordable Alfama option, with a picturesque location, fantastic river views, and eclectic décor. Some rooms are bathrooms en suite, while others share the two, clean hall bathrooms. $49 - $87.

Bairro Alto (Old Town)

- Bed&Breakfast Lisboa, Travessa do Alcaide, nº7 (atached at Adamastor), +351 (9) 1699 3798 (duartedas@gmail.com), [63]. Good rooms in a very central bed-and-breakfast with views all over Lisbon and the river. 30€ - €40.

- Camões, Travessa do Poço da Cidade 38 1E, +351 (21) 346 40 48. Basic, clean and affordable. Single €20, Triple €60.

- Oasis Backpackers' Mansion, Rua de Santa Catarina 24, +351 (21) 347 80 44 (info@oasislisboa.com), [64]. Backpackers rave about this hotel, often noting the friendly staff, large clean rooms, fun atmosphere and great dinners. It is a great place for a budget traveler to meet up with other travelers and feel safe when they go to bed at night - if they go to bed.

Baixa (Old Town)

- Beira Minho, Praça da Figueira, 6, +351 (21) 346 18 46. A great location at a good price, but with few amenities.

- Bom Conforto Casa de Hospedes, Rua Dos Douradores, 83, 3.º DTO., 1100-204 Lisboa, +351 (21) 887 83 28 (bomconforto@gmail.com). Very clean, quiet, and comfortable. Helpful and sweet English-speaking staff. €20 singles.

- Goodnight Backpackers Hostel, Rua dos Correeiros 113, 2nd, +351 (21) 343-0139 (gnbookings@gmail.com), [65]. The interior design looks a bit like IKEA show-room, the staff know where the good places to go out dancing and drinking are and the location works for a budget traveler. €18-20.

- Kitsch Hostel, Praça dos Restauradores 65, 2° esq (Aerobus stop and metro stop restauradores), +351 213467332 (info@kitschhostel.com), [66]. checkin: 14.00; checkout: 11.00. brand new hostel in central Lisbon. 10-minute walk from Bairro Alto. from €14.

- Lisbon Story Guesthouse, Largo S. Domingos, 18 S/L (on the right hand-side of Teatro Nacional D. Maria II), (+351) 211529313 (info@lisbonstoryguesthouse.com), [67]. A cozy Guesthouse with welcoming common areas and well-decorated small rooms at a budget price. Rooms Starting at €50.

- Pensão Alegria, Praça de Alegria 12, +351 (21) 322 0670. Small cosy pension on a beautiful small square. €43,00 (Doubles).

- Pensão Norte, Rua dos Douradores, 159, +351 (21) 887 89 41. B&B style pension with friendly and accommodating staff in a quiet area.

- Pensão Residencial Portuense, Rua das Portas de Santo Antao, 149-157, 1150-267 Lisboa (near Restauradores behind the Hard Rock Cafe), +351 (21) 346 41 97 (rportuense@mail.telepac.pt, fax: +351 (21) 342 42 39), [68]. Varies from €35 to €85.

- Restauradores, Praça dos Restauradores, 13, +351 (21) 347 56 60.

- Suiço Atlântico, Rua da Gloria 3-19, +351 (21) 346 17 13. checkin: 2PM; checkout: 12PM. A comfortable, non-smoking, hotel on Restauradores Square with WiFi available in public areas. Starting at €40.

- Travellers House, Rua Augusta, 89, +351 (21) 0115 922 (info@travellershouse.com), [69]. Nice hostel with lots of extras. Friendly staff and easy to meet people with their nightly activities. Free WiFi, breakfast, coffee and tea, maps and city advice, lots of guide books to look at and a book exchange for travelers who are tired of reading the same book over and over again. Beds starting at €15.

- Yes Hostel, Rua de São Julião 148, +351 213 427 171 (infolisbon@yeshostel.com). Relaxed and comfortable hostel with an excellent location. One of the largest hostels in Lisbon; opened in July 2009. Comfortable beds in large dorms, key operated lockers, free computer access as well as WiFi in every room, free breakfast, complimentary coffee and tea, 24 hour bar, access to their professional kitchen. Very friendly and accomodating staff. 3-course Portuguese dinners for €8 by their in-house chef. 4 person dorms starting at €15.

- Next Hostel, Avenida Almirante Reis n.4 - 5, +351 211 927 746 (info@nexthostel.com). Comfortable hostel with an central location. Comfortable beds in large dorms, key lockers, free computer access as well as WiFi, free breakfast, 24 hour reception, well equipped kitchen. Very friendly and helpful staff. Opened in July 2009. 4 person dorms starting at €12, can also go as low as 9 euros if booked early..

- Rossio Hostel, Calçada do Carmo, 6, +351 (21) 342 60 04 (rossiohostel@hotmail.com), [70]. checkin: 2PM; checkout: 12PM. Great location, great staff, great free cooked breakfast, great hostel. The hostel offers dorms and privates. Free internet, TV room, lounge.

Graca

- Johnies Place Hostel, Calcada da Graca no.18F (Right next to Graca's Belveder), (+351) 963752375 (jonhiesplace@gmail.com), [71]. Cosy hostel. No extra costs for internet, printing, breakfast. Dorms starting at €14.

City Center (Marques Pombal to Campo Pequeno)

- Ibis Lisboa Saldanha, Avenida Casal Ribeiro 23, +351 (21) 319 1690, [72]. Travelers give this Ibis so-so reviews noting on the plus side the location only 5 min walk to the metro, and a good breakfast and on the minus side small rooms. €59 - €69.

- Lisboa Central Hostel, Rua Rodrigues Sampaio nº160 (On parallel street behind Av. da Liberdade), (+351) 309 881 038 (global@lisboacentralhostel.com), [73]. A fun, fresh and friendly place to stay. Located in the heart of city in Marques de Pombal and Avenida da Liberdade this international hostel provides a good base for sight-seeing by day and partying by night. All of Lisbon’s major night spots are easily accessible on foot. Dorms starting at €16.

- My Rainbow Rooms GAY Bed & Breakfast, Saldanha, 1 - 1000-007 Lisbon, (+351) 21 842 1122 (book@myrainbowrooms.com), [74]. Lisbon's only exclusively gay Bed & Breakfast is housed in a luxurious 6 bedroom, 3 bathroom apartment in a beautifully restored 1920's neo-art deco building. With three meter ceilings, rich hardwood floors, modern baths, elegant furnishing and sophisticated amenities, this gay hotel is centrally located in a quiet residential area in the heart of the capital, only two minutes walk from the Saldanha metro station. Breakfast and free wireless internet are included. $45 - $69. (38.733473,-9.144101)

- Odisseo, Travessa Larga, 1, 3º-Esq 1150-207 Lisboa (Visit our website), [75].

- Pensão Londrina, Rua Castilho, 61 First Floor (5 minutes walk from Marquês de Pombal underground station), +351.21.3863624, [76].

- Pousada da Juventude - Youth Hostel, R. Andrade Corvo, 46, +351 (21) 353 26 96 (lisboa@movijovem.pt, fax: +351 (21) 353 75 41), [77]. (Marquês de Pombal,)

Mid-range

- NH Liberdade, Avenida da Liberdade, 180 B, 1250-146 Lisbon, +351 (21) 351 4060 Fax: +351 (21) 314 3674, [78]. Nice hotel located right in the center of the city.

- Travelpark hotel, Avenida Almirante Reis nº 64, 1150-020 Lisboa, +351 (21) 810 2100 (reservas@hoteltravelpark.com), [79]. A brand new hotel that sits in the heart of Av. Almirante Reis. Just five minutes away from Lisbon International Airport and with underground station at doorstep. Online booking

- Vila Galé Ópera, Tvª Conde da Ponte, 1300-141, +351 (21)360 5400 (opera@vilagale.pt, fax: +351 (21) 360 5450), [80]. The hotel basically stands right by the Tagus River. Adjoins Lisbon’s Congress Centre and the lively nightlife of Lisbon’s Docas area. Online booking

- America Diamond's Hotel, Rua Tomás Ribeiro 47, +351 213 521 177 (info@americadiamondshotel.com, fax: +351 213 531 476), [81]. Was totally reconstructed in 2006 on a historical building, keeping only its original façade, contrasting with its modern interior, equipped with 60 comfortable rooms of different typologies. Rooms starting at €50.

Splurge

- Hotel Avenida Palace, (+351) 21 321 81 00 (reservas@hotelavenidapalace.pt, fax: (+351) 21 342 28 84), [82]. Located in the emblematic Restauradores Square, in the heart of the city, The Avenida Palace Hotel is a symbol of charm and elegance in more than one hundred years of its story. This neoclassical, imposing building and its first class refined service turned it into one of the most selected destinations of high society and prominent individualities all over the world.

- Lapa Palace, Rua do Pau de Bandeira, 4, (+351) 21 394 94 94 (reservations@lapa-palace.com, fax: +(351) 21 395 0665), [83]. Property of Orient-Express Hotels, Trains & Cruises. A luxury palace hotel in one of Lisbon's seven hills, with gardens and pools, heated all year long. Member of The Leading Hotels of the World. With one of the best spas in Lisbon, gourmet food (its restaurant is considered by the Zagat Guide as one of the best in Lisbon) and one of best Concierge services in the country.

- Pestana Palace, Rua Jau, nº 54, (+351) 21 361 56 00, [84]. Located in an old Palace, has a wonderful garden and luxury spa. Extremely comfortable, and well worth the €220 per night if you book in advance and online.

- Eurostars Das Letras, Rua Castilho, 6-12. 1250 - 069. Lisboa. Portugal (Five minutes walk from Avenida metro station, ten minutes walk from the AirportBus stop at Marques de Pombal), +351 21 357 3094 (reservas@eurostarsdasletras.com). checkin: 10:00H. A new, modern hotel situated in the central Rato district. Despite its five-star rating, double rooms can be had for a very reasonable rate if booked in advanced. The hotel offers free wireless internet for guests along with two laptops with internet access. The hotel is very well situated - one street away from Avenida de Liberdad, a few minutes from the Avenida metro station and a short walk from Baixa / Chiado.

- Tiara Park Atlantic Lisboa, Rua Castilho, 149. 1099 - 034. Lisboa. Portugal, +351 21 381 87 00 (reservations.lisboa@tiara-hotels.com), [85]. checkin: 15:00H. Luxury hotel with 331 rooms each decorated as one of the four elements. Glass-and-concrete building, but great for travelling with children if you don't mind 10 minutes walk to the downtown. Private parking; close to park and a large public playground (Parque Eduardo VII). Double: rack rate start at $150; special offers from online aggregators can be as low as $90.

Stay safe

Lisbon is generally safe but use common sense precautions, especially at train stations and on public transport.

Some areas are best avoided late at night because of the risk of mugging: Bairro Alto, the alleys, Cais do Sodre. Some night clubs in Lisboa have a poor reputation.

Crime

According to Eurostat [86], the overall crime rate and in particular robberies are on the rise in Portugal. Some areas on the outskirts of Lisbon are becoming more dangerous, but it is unlikely the average tourist will visit these areas. The most common crime against tourists is pickpocketing and theft from rental cars or on public transport. The metro carriages can become crowded and opportune for pickpockets but simple precautions are enough to maintain your safety while travelling on them. There are some episodes of violent crimes (i.e. robberies) and some drug related crimes in places such as Bairro Alto and Santos, especially at night. Chances are you'll be approached at least a few times by certain types offering 'hash' or 'chocolate', especially in the downtown area on and around Rua Augusta. If you are of fair complexion or obviously a tourist you are more likely to be approached. It's also encouraged to be wary of the Intendente-Martim Moniz area. Intendente is a well known area for prostitution, and even though it has changed in the past couple of years (there's always police nearby, whereas before you couldn't say the same), it's still a problematic area. Martim Moniz is also notorious, at night the area occupied by shifty crowds that more often than not will cause some trouble. During the day Martim-Moniz is quite a safe and pleasant area.

Criminals in Lisbon are very quick and witty and think of scams about how to get money from you (like pretending that they need to "borrow" money from you promising to pay you back in a few hours). Just remember that Lisbon is a big city and is very different from the rest of Portugal. Young tourists should be especially advised as they will likely be approached by many people especially near the Chiado Plaza. A firm 'no thank-you' or "não, obrigado", if you're a male; "não, obrigada", if you're female should be enough to deter them. Also be careful with bank machines in the city center. Groups of adolescents occasionally stay close to the multibanco and wait until you have entered your pin. They then force you away from the machine and withdraw the maximum amount from the machine (€200 maximum per withdrawal; however, two withdrawals of €200 per day per bank card are allowed). Try to withdraw money earlier in the day and try to avoid some of the train stations late at night, especially Cais do Sodre station.

Walking and Driving

Lisbon has one of the highest rates of car accidents on the European Union, so be extra careful when crossing the streets. Drivers don't usually respect pedestrian crossings unless there is a red light for them to stop. Driving can be tricky without a GPS system as there is a poor signalization in the streets. Drivers overall are not too aggressive compared to other European capitals, although this is disputed by (mostly Spanish) tourists.

In case of Emergency

Ambulance, fire brigade, police: call 112.

Same number is used with both land line and mobile phone. The number works on any mobile phone, whether it is keylocked or not and with or without SIM card.

Contact

Private international call centers and public telephone booths are common throughout Lisbon. Be warned, however, public phones can be less generous than slot machines: many times they'll swallow your change and give you no credit. You're better off purchasing a Portugal Telecom pre-paid card you can insert into the phone, or even a discount calling card which connects you via a toll-free number. These can be purchased from street kiosks and convenience stores. Most payphones also allow you to pay by credit card, although support for this feature is somewhat expensive.

Internet cafes are also abundant in the Rossio and Restauradores districts as well as in the Bairro Alto (opening late there). Expect to pay between €2 - €3 per hour.

Cope

Get out

- Mafra— A charming town with a monastery.

- Ericeira— A gorgeous seaside resort near Mafra, well-known to surfers worldwide.

- Sintra is a beautiful UNESCO World Heritage site town 30 minutes by car/train from Lisbon.

- Cascais— A town on the bay of the same name,on the Estoril coast.

- Praia das Maçãs is a small and surprisingly calm seaside resort about 30km to the west of Lisbon,near the towns of Colares & Sintra.

South of Lisbon(south of the Tagus river/rio Tejo):

- Almada, a city connected to/from Lisbon via ferry boats at Cacilhas and connected by train at Pragal and roadway via 25 Abril bridge/ponte 25 de Abril. The Monument of Christ-King (Cristo-Rei) is located in Pragal, Almada.

- Setúbal— Capital of the district, and starting point for visits to Arrabida mountain, Troia, and the Sado river. Dolphins can be spotted on the bay.

- Palmela— A hill town with a castle, with amazing views, near the city of Setúbal.

- Sesimbra— A fisherman's village near the Arrábida mountain, good for scuba diving and fresh seafood, and starting point to visit the Espichel cape and sancturary.

- Azeitão—,near Setubal, some 30km South of Lisbon, this small region consists of a series of lovely villages, of which Vila Nogueira de Azeitão and Vila Fresca de Azeitão are the most well known. Azeitão stands between the Arrábida Nature Park and the coast. In the park you'll meet the last remains of the original Mediterranean flora. Also, there is the famous Convent of Arrábida to visit and the stunning views from its hills and at its peak.

- Vila Nogueira de Azeitão— Visit the beautiful Winery and palace "Quinta da Bacalhoa". Also check out the grand estate and winery of "José Maria da Fonseca". Igreja de São Lorenço with hand painted tile panels, gilded wood chapels and a Lucca Della Robbia medallion. Convent of S. Domingos.

- Tróia— A lovely peninsula gifted with kms of wild unexplored beaches, and with a tourist resort being developed on one of its edges.