SEKAI Explorer Guide Oslo (2011)

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Table of Content:

• Districts

• Understand

Name and history

Geography

Climate

People

Economy

• Get in

By plane

By train

By car

By bus

By boat

• Get around

By metro

By bus or tram

By train

By boat

By bike

By taxi

By car

• See

Buildings and structures

Museums

Parks

Other sights

• Do

Festivals

• Learn

Work

• Buy

Shopping Districts

Shopping Malls

Specialty Stores

• Eat

Budget

Torggata

Grønland

Norwegian Food

Elsewhere

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

Buying alcohol in stores

Pubs and bars

Clubs & live music

Rock music

Gay

• Sleep

Budget

Camping

Hostels

Hotels

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Internet access

• Stay safe

Crime

Scams

Winter conditions

Politics

Water

Traffic

• Cope

Embassies

• Get out

Districts

Following the latest reform of January 1, 2004, the city is divided into fifteen boroughs (bydeler) that are to a considerable extent self governed. Each borough is responsible for local services not overseen by the City Council, such as social services, basic healthcare, and kindergartens. For convenience, the city can be divided into six larger districts.

- Sentrum (Sentrum) Central downtown area.

- West (Bygdøy) "The Museum Peninsula" and the poshest area in Norway

- Inner West (St. Hanshaugen, Frogner)

- Inner East (Sagene, Grünerløkka, Gamle Oslo)

- Outer West (Ullern, Vestre Aker, Nordre Aker)

- Outer East (Alna, Bjerke, Grorud, Stovner, Nordstrand, Søndre Nordstrand, Østensjø)

Understand

Oslo is the demographic, economic and political centre of Norway.

Name and history

The history of the city can be traced back over 1,000 years, although according to the chronicles of Snorre Sturlason, Oslo was founded in 1048, by the king Harald Hardråde. The city became capital of Norway around 1300, but lost its privileges during the Danish-Norwegian union from 1348 to 1814. In 1624, a fire devastated old Oslo, and the city was moved some kilometres west to gain protection from the fortress at Akershus. The city was renamed Christiania, after the danish king Christian IV, a name that remained until it was officially renamed on January 1st 1925 to Oslo. Traces have been found close to [Ekeberg] indicating settlement as far back as 10,000 bc.

After the devastating 1624 fire, old Oslo (around the mouth of river Aker) was largely abandoned and the ruins converted to farmland. Today, a few church ruins are still visible under the Ekeberg hill (across the water from the new operahouse, between road E18 and the railway). Beyond these ruins there are virtually nothing remaining of medieval Oslo. Ironically, the new city Christiania was established outside the borders of Oslo, and 'Oslo' remained the name of the small, surviving settlement outside the new city borders. During Christiania's rapid expansion in the 19th century, as the capital of a new state, the site of original Oslo (old Oslo, or 'Gamlebyen') was included in the city. Due to the rapid inclusion of surrounding agricultural areas in the 19th century, a large number of remains from the city's farming history is still clearly visible in place names and farm houses. Nice parks like St. Hanshaugen is the remain of original pastures and sources of firewood for the city's inhabitants.

Oslo is pronounced "Oohshlo" (Osjlo) locally.

Geography

Oslo, with its approximately 453 square kilometers, is one of the largest capitals in the world by area. Granted, most of this is forest, making Oslo a city in close contact with the nature surrounding it.

Oslo is situated in an amphitheater-like setting, with the city centre in the bottom close to the Oslo fjord, and residential areas stretching uphill from there in all directions. Behind the residential areas, the forested area of Marka (Nordmarka, Østmarka, Lillomarka) extends, with flora and fauna that is quite extraordinary for a city of this size. Moose are commonplace (easily spotted in winter), and the whole of the capital is part of Norway's wolf reserve (even if they rarely come here).

The Oslo fjord is an inlet of the Skagerrak bay, stretching inland from the North Sea towards Øresund and the Baltic Sea. Oslo has an impressive archipelago of islands, which in summer becomes the city's favoured playground.

The city centre is bounded by Oslo Central Station (Oslo S) to the east, the Royal Palace (Slottet) to the west and the seafront (from Akershus fortress to Aker brygge) to the south. It's a fairly compact area and easily walkable, Karl Johan, the mostly pedestrian main street connecting Oslo S and the Palace is the main artery of downtown Oslo. However, several of the neighbourhoods close to the centre hold interesting sights and entertainment offerings, so to explore these you should make use of the city's comprehensive public transport system.

Climate

Although well into the northern latitudes, Oslo's climate is fairly temperate thanks to warm air being wafted across the Atlantic from the Gulf Stream. Summer weather in Oslo is mild and pleasant, with frequent hot spells, and plenty of long sunny days. In winter temperatures hover just above or below freezing. Snow is most often plentiful in the forested areas and also often in the city in winter, making it a great winter sports venue. Rainfall is spread across the year, the rainiest month being August.

People

Oslo proper has a population of about 600,000 people, and around 900,000 including its extra-municipal suburbs (such as Bærum and Lørenskog). The Oslo metropolitan area has a population of around 1.4 million. The diverse population includes some of Norway's wealthiest celebrities and socialites, as well as more than 150,000 immigrants. This has made Oslo a highly ethnically and culturally diverse city, with 26% of the city's population being from a foreign country. Accompanied by a large influx of people from all around Norway, Oslo is thus often referred to as the "melting pot" of Norway. Cultural differences have affected Oslo's society and cityscape in matters of food, shopping, crime and so on, which have all blended in to the everyday life of Oslo's population. Some areas of Oslo, especially around Grønland and Tøyen, and many suburbs east of the city center have majority-immigrant or majority non-ethnic Norwegian populations. Depending on the area, the most notable immigrant communities are Pakistani, Somali, Swedish, Sri Lankan, Iraqi, Polish, Vietnamese, Iranian, Ex-Yugoslavian, Moroccan, Turkish, Albanian, Filipino, Thai and Danish. Pakistani immigrants, and children of Pakistani immigrants form the largest minority group in Oslo.

Economy

The Oslo region is the country's premier business centre and has a diverse and dynamic economy with one of the highest regional GDPs in Europe. Figures published by the regional development agency for Oslo show that GDP per capita in the region was €44,190 ($51,950) (excluding oil and gas) in 2000, compared to an EU average of approximately €20,000 ($23,512). According to a report produced by the city's Chief Commissioner's Department and the Department of Finances and Development, the service sector dominates employment in Oslo. In 2001, Public and Business services accounted for more than 59 percent of jobs. Other major employment areas within the service sector include trade, hotels and catering, banking and insurance.

Get in

By plane

Oslo Airport, Gardermoen [3] (IATA: OSL, ICAO: ENGM) is Norway's largest airport, located in Gardermoen, 37 kilometres north-northeast of Oslo. Direct flights are available to 107 airports, including 24 airports in Norway. The largest airlines in Norway, Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) [4] and Norwegian Air Shuttle [5], operate direct flights to many European and Norweigian destinations from Oslo Airport, as well as large domestic networks. Flights by about 30 other airlines make this airport easy to reach from most of the world.

Be aware that most internet flight booking sites will also show flights to Sandefjord Airport Torp and/or Moss Airport Rygge, both for low-cost airlines, when searching for Oslo Airport (see below). Make sure to check the search result before booking.

To travel between the city and the airport:

- Flytoget [6], operates high speed express trains, generally taking less than 20 minutes to reach Oslo Central Station (Oslo S). Trains depart every 10 minutes. Tickets cost NOK 170 when bought in a ticket vendor machine or by credit card, NOK 200 when bought manually from the ticket desk (NOK 85/100 retired, kids and students younger than 31 with a student ID). Tickets are not valid for transfer in Oslo). Every second train continues past Oslo S to Drammen, stopping at Nationaltheateret station, which is more convenient for destinations in the western end of the city center.

- NSB [7] operates trains via Oslo to Drammen, then on to Kongsberg or Skien. The trip takes 30-40 minutes, and trains depart every 30 minutes. Tickets cost NOK 110 (valid for transfer in Oslo).

- Flybussen [8]operates buses to Oslo city center which take roughly 45 minutes to reach the city center (NOK 140, return ticket valid for 1 month NOK 240, valid for transfer in Oslo).

- Flybussekspressen [9] oeprates buses to various destinations in the Oslo area. There is an information stand inside the terminal, which can provide information about all bus services from the airport.

- Taxis can, and should, be ordered in the booth inside the terminal for different fixed prices from approximately NOK 700+ to Oslo city center. Going outside to flag one from the queue always ends up much more expensive. Most people with a destination in Oslo will be far better off getting the Flytoget, Flybussen or local train to Oslo S, and get a taxi or local public transport from there.

Sandefjord Airport Torp [10] (IATA: TRF, ICAO: ENTO) near Sandefjord and Tønsberg, 118km south of Oslo. The following airlines operate at Torp: KLM (Amsterdam), Norwegian Air Shuttle (Alicante), Ryanair (Alghero, Alicante, Barcelona-Girona, Bremen, Edinburgh, Frankfurt-Hahn, Liverpool, London-Stansted, Milan-Bergamo, Marseille), Widerøe (Bergen, Bodø, Copenhagen, Stavanger, Tromsø , Trondheim), and Wizz Air (Gdańsk, Katowice, Poznań, Prague, Riga, Warsaw, Wroclaw)

To get from the airport to the city:

- Torpekspressen [11] operates between the airport and Drammen and Oslo (1 hour 45 mins) and costs NOK 190 for a single ticket, NOK 320 for a return (discounts for students, ISIC Card Holders and senior citizens). Torpekspressen buses are scheduled to accommodate arriving flights, so after you get off the plane, most likely there will be a bus to Oslo waiting for you. If you miss the bus scheduled for your flight, you may end up waiting a long time for the next bus.

- NSB [12]. operates trains between Torp Airport Train Station and central Oslo. The train station is linked to the airport via free shuttle buses.

- Taxis are very expensive; a taxi to Oslo costs around NOK 2000.

Moss Lufthavn Rygge [13] (IATA: RYG, ICAO: ENRY) airport is a third airport in the Oslo area. It is now Ryanair's main Norwegian hub, and is also served by Norwegian Air Shuttle. The airport is close to the cities of Moss, Fredrikstad and Sarpsborg and is only 70km from Oslo.

To get to the city from the airport:

- Ryggeekspressen [14] buses will meet all incoming international flights, and leave from Oslo central station for all outgoing flights. A one way ticket to Oslo costs NOK 130, return costs NOK 250. Buy tickets from the bus driver. One way journey will take approximately one hour.

- NSB [15] operates trains between Rygge train station and central Oslo and Halden. A shuttle bus leaves the airport for Rygge train station approx. 10 minutes before scheduled train departures. 3 trains per day operate from Rygge to Gothenburg, Sweden.

If you don't want to land in an airport that is far away from Oslo, Gardermoen and Rygge airports are your best choice.

By train

Local trains cover certain areas of the city, and run out to the neighbouring municipalities and towns. The same tickets are valid for travel inside Oslo municipality (until and including the stations Lørenskog, Rosenholm, Lysaker and Movatn).

The local train network spans across the city limits to neighbouring cities and towns. The network inside Oslo is depicted in grey on this map [34]. marked "Betjent" and Carriage with Conductor".

In the centre, the main station is Oslo Sentralstasjon, which connects to the subway station Jernbanetorget through a direct link (escalators down by track 1/exit to Oslo City shopping centre/bus terminal) and several bus/tram lines above ground. The second downtown station, served by most local trains and several regional ones, is the underground station Nationaltheateret, and is located immediately below the subway station of the same name.

Punctuality, especially in the winter, can be an issue as the train system is quite run down.

By car

For general information on driving in Norway, see Norway.

The major roads entering Oslo is also used for travel inside the city. In the eastern suburbs, road E6 is the main north-south corridor. East-west transport can be done on road E18 as well as Ring 3 running from E18 at the western city border to E6 in the eastern suburbs. The smaller (and slower) Ring 2 connects Skøyen in the west via Majorstua, Ullevål general hospital and Carl Berners plass to E18 east of the centre. The ring roads (as well as other main roads) are great for navigation.

Beware to always give way to trams and pedestrians, unless overridden by signs or traffic lights. Never challenge the tram, they have a long braking distance and will in any case give a loud, clear warning if you are obstructing. In some roundabouts the tram is driving straight through the island while cars must circle, be extremely careful in this type of roundabouts. Trams are not obliged to yield to pedestrians, while cars must. Park your car in safe distance from the rails as not to obscure the tram (ask locals if unsure).

By bus

Oslo is well served by bus from most of Europe. The biggest operators of international buses are Swedish companies Swebus Express [21] and GoByBus [22]. Both run inexpensive services to and from Stockholm, Gothenburg and Copenhagen several times a day. Eurolines [23] runs services to Gothenburg and Stockholm.

Domestic services: Nor-Way Bussekspress [24] is the biggest operator, with several buses to Bergen, Trondheim and tons of other Norwegian destinations. These are very useful for reaching along-the-way destinations, as outside of the central parts of Eastern Norway they stop at every single stop along the way, but are tedious for travelling very long distances also covered by train. Lavprisekspressen [25] has buses to Trondheim and Kristiansand twice a day, with cheap fares (Internet booking only). Timekspressen [26] runs a network of bus lines in the area surrounding Oslo, most notably their line 1 to Drammen, Kongsberg and Notodden, that runs every hour, day and night, year-round. Every town and city in Norway is somehow connected to Oslo by public transport, although connections are sparse outside the main arteries.

By boat

Boats run from Vippetangen near Akershus fortress to the islands in the Oslofjord, as well as from Aker Brygge to Bygdøy, with many major museums. The 24hr etc tickets are valid for local boats. Single tickets are sold on board for 40 NOK.

The departures, especially in evenings and winter, are infrequent, so make sure you don't miss the last one! Schedules can be found here: [35].

From Aker Brygge, there are also departures for Nesodden and Slemmestad. These run out of Oslo, and are not covered by the Oslo ticket. However, they provide a cheap cruise on the Oslofjord.

Get around

There is a comprehensive public transport system in Oslo, consisting of buses, trams, trains, metro (T-bane) and boats. All run on the same fare scheme, and the same tickets are valid for all modes of transport. A single ticket costs 27NOK when bought in advance from a kiosk or a machine, and 40NOK when bought from a bus or tram driver. The ticket is valid for one hour of free travel. There are also cards with 8 coupons(flexikort), each valid for one hour of travel (200 NOK), 24hr passes (70NOK), weekly passes (210NOK) and 30 day-passes (590NOK), which can be bought at Trafikanten [30] near Oslo S, any Narvesen, 7-Eleven or Deli de Luca kiosk, a number of independent kiosks as well as on machines on all metro stations and a few of the tram stops. From March 1st, 2010, all these tickets are also valid on the night lines (inside the city), running every Friday and Saturday night after the regular service has shut down. All these tickets are half-priced for children (4-15 years) and elders (67 and up). Weekly or longer passes are half-price until the age of 20. Children under the age of 4 ride for free, including trolley. As a side note, bringing a bike requires buying an additional child ticket.

Make sure that you have a ticket and, if necessary, that it is validated before entering the subway platform or boarding the rear door of the bus or tram. The day- week- and monthly passes as well as single tickets purchased in a kiosk are not valid until they are stamped. On a bus or tram, the tickets are stamped when you board, either by the driver or in a stamping machine. On the subway and the large railway stations, you stamp the ticket before entering the platform. Random spot checks are common and being caught without a valid ticket leads to an automatic fine of at least 750NOK.

A new, electronic ticketing system is about to start, and most regulars will have these cards for their monthly passes. However, none of the touristic tickets are yet on this system, so you'll be stuck with good old paper tickets for the time being.

Trafikanten [31] is the information centre for public transport in Oslo. It is situated just outside Oslo Central Station, by the foot of the clock tower. They hand out free maps, give information and sell all kinds of tickets. Their website has timetables, maps and search engines for all city transport in Oslo, as well as all transport in the nearby counties of Akershus, Østfold, Oppland, Hedmark, Buskerud, Vestfold and Telemark. The Oslo Tourist Information Centre is in the same office, at the rear counters.

There are two main hubs for public transport inside the city centre: Oslo central station ("Oslo S")/Jernbanetorget and Nationaltheateret (underground). All metro lines pass these stations, all trains pass Oslo S, most trains (including the airport train) pass Nationaltheateret. Nationaltheateret is most convenient for key buildings such as the Royal Palace, the National Gallery, the Parliament, Oslo Concert Hall and Oslo City Hall.

By metro

Oslo has one of the largest metro systems in Europe. It is known as the Tunnelbane or just T-bane in Norwegian.

To find a T-bane station, just look for the blue and white logo with a "T" within a circle. There are six lines, but the network is easy enough to figure out: all lines merge together to a single tunnel through the city center, from Majorstuen through Jernbanetorget (Oslo Sentralstasjon) to Tøyen, and then spread out into the suburbs. A loop line runs in a circle from northern Oslo to the center and back. The loop line is called "Ringen" (the ring) in Norwegian.

With rolling stock from the 1960's, the Oslo metro used to be one of the most run-down in Europe, but it has now been fully replaced with new metro trains engineered by Siemens and designed by Porsche.

When entering a T-bane station, make sure to pick the correct platform: all stations except three on the loop line (Sinsen, Storo and Nydalen) have separate entrances and separate platforms for trains going west and trains going east. If you have a paper ticket, make sure that it is valid before entering the platform. If you have an electronic ticket, you should theoretically validate the ticket before leaving, however this is not yet enforced rigidly.

On the west side of the system line number 2 (towards Østerås) and number 6 (towards Jar) cross the city limits into Bærum. A ticket for Oslo only will not be valid for journeys in or to Bærum, except to Jar station. Make sure that you have purchased a ticket which is valid for the Bærum zones if you travel past the station Ekraveien on line 2. This also applies for taking any bus or train to Bærum municipality.

By bus or tram

Trams and buses complement the subway network, and use the same tickets. They cover most of the city, and run from approx. 5AM to midnight, on some lines up to 1AM. From Oct 10th, 2010, two bus lines (31 and 37) will run all night, every day.

All tram lines run every 10 minutes during the day, and every 20 minutes at night and early morning (30 min at weekend mornings). The main lines cover parts of the city with no subway, and are an efficient way of getting around. The main, central tram terminal is at Jernbanetorget, where all lines converge.

Bus lines cover the rest of the city, as well as several ring lines. Nearly all central bus lines converge at Jernbanetorget. The most useful bus lines for visitors are buses 30, 31, 32, 34, 37 and 54, passing by Jernbanetorget and covering parts of the city with no trams or metros. Buses 20 and 21 provide central ring-line service, while buses 23 and 24 cover the highway ring road further out.

Nights after Fridays and Saturdays, buses cover parts of the city with varying frequency. All regular tickets are valid. A map of the weekend night lines can be found online [32]. Most of these start or pass by the bus stops close to the Parliament building (Stortinget) and Oslo Central Station (Oslo S).

From Oct 10, 2010, night services will be extended. The new route map is here [33]. All lines will run nights after Friday and Saturday, with the exception of bus lines 31 and 37, which will run 24h every day.

By train

Local trains cover certain areas of the city, and run out to the neighbouring municipalities and towns. The same tickets are valid for travel inside Oslo municipality (until and including the stations Lørenskog, Rosenholm, Lysaker and Movatn).

The local train network spans across the city limits to neighbouring cities and towns. The network inside Oslo is depicted in grey on this map [34]. marked "Betjent" and Carriage with Conductor".

In the centre, the main station is Oslo Sentralstasjon, which connects to the subway station Jernbanetorget through a direct link (escalators down by track 1/exit to Oslo City shopping centre/bus terminal) and several bus/tram lines above ground. The second downtown station, served by most local trains and several regional ones, is the underground station Nationaltheateret, and is located immediately below the subway station of the same name.

Punctuality, especially in the winter, can be an issue as the train system is quite run down.

By boat

Boats run from Vippetangen near Akershus fortress to the islands in the Oslofjord, as well as from Aker Brygge to Bygdøy, with many major museums. The 24hr etc tickets are valid for local boats. Single tickets are sold on board for 40 NOK.

The departures, especially in evenings and winter, are infrequent, so make sure you don't miss the last one! Schedules can be found here: [35].

From Aker Brygge, there are also departures for Nesodden and Slemmestad. These run out of Oslo, and are not covered by the Oslo ticket. However, they provide a cheap cruise on the Oslofjord.

By bike

Except during the winter (approx. Dec-Mar) Oslo has a public bike service [36]. Just get a keycard at the tourist office (80NOK, valid one day) or at the aforementioned web site before going to Oslo (80NOK for the whole season) and you can get a bike at numerous places in the city. The bike can be used for up to three hours before you return it to any city bike stall. Once you have returned it, you are immediately eligible for a new one, so you can practically keep the bike all day long provided you check in and check out every three hours.

By taxi

Taxis are expensive. The minimum charge with most companies is at least 80NOK, increasing to a whopping 160 NOK late at weekend nights. Short central hops cost upwards of 100NOK, so if public transport still runs, use it. Taxis in Oslo as in most of Norway are frequently new, large and comfortable cars like Volvo or Mercedes. Most taxis wait for customers in a line in front of hotels or train stations, or you can order one by phoning one of the handful of taxi companies (for an extra charge). You can also flag one from the street, or go to a taxi stand.

Several companies compete to have the most incomprehensible price structure. All taxi companies have a starting fee (0-160 NOK) and a fee per kilometer that varies from 14-30NOK. These fees vary by taxi company and time of day. Usually, there's three different rates: The lowest one is the day rate, usually between 06.00 and 18.00. The next is the evening and night rate, usually 18.00-06.00 M-F and 06.00-18.00 Sa. The last rate is usually for Saturday after 18.00 till Monday 06.00, but different companies do have different time frames. Beware that some companies will operate with a special holiday rate (helligdagstakst) on public holidays, including the night before, which will result in staggering rates.

Taxi drivers in Oslo aren't a particularly jolly breed, but they usually do not speed too much, and taxi-crime towards customers is almost non-existent (towards tax authorities, however, is a different matter). Sometimes a taxi driver will attempt to charge you extra for luggage, and some companies do have a surcharge for this. The price structure should be shown on a sticker inside the car, but is always in so small print, and with an overwhelming amount of details, you can't possibly decipher it. Another thing that often disturbs visitors is that the taxi drivers' name and license is not printed inside the car itself. If you encounter any problems, ask for a receipt which will help you identify the car later, or make a note of the taxi licence number on the car roof.

All taxis accept Visa and Mastercard, and the card should be swiped in the meter at the start of the journey for card validation. The driver will usually keep the card on top of the meter so that you can keep an eye on it. If you are uncomfortable with this, it is possible to ask to get the card back, but the card needs to be swiped again when you arrive at your destination. Most meters are just swipe and sign, but some companies have EMV chip terminals where you'll need to authorize the charge with your PIN. There have been no known scams connected to credit card fraud in taxis.

Some people tip taxi drivers, or round the bill up to the nearest NOK 10, but taxi drivers do not generally expect tip - most people pay the exact amount by card anyway.

By car

For general information on driving in Norway, see Norway.

The major roads entering Oslo is also used for travel inside the city. In the eastern suburbs, road E6 is the main north-south corridor. East-west transport can be done on road E18 as well as Ring 3 running from E18 at the western city border to E6 in the eastern suburbs. The smaller (and slower) Ring 2 connects Skøyen in the west via Majorstua, Ullevål general hospital and Carl Berners plass to E18 east of the centre. The ring roads (as well as other main roads) are great for navigation.

Beware to always give way to trams and pedestrians, unless overridden by signs or traffic lights. Never challenge the tram, they have a long braking distance and will in any case give a loud, clear warning if you are obstructing. In some roundabouts the tram is driving straight through the island while cars must circle, be extremely careful in this type of roundabouts. Trams are not obliged to yield to pedestrians, while cars must. Park your car in safe distance from the rails as not to obscure the tram (ask locals if unsure).

See

Buildings and structures

Architecture in Oslo may at first seem dull. Unlike for instance its Swedish counterpart, Stockholm, downtown Oslo has only scattered monumental buildings where in particular the Parliament-Palace axis (upper part of Karl Johan Street) has a certain Parisian grandeur. The charm of Oslo can also be found in the affluent inner-city suburbs of for instance Frogner and Fagerborg as well as above St.Hanshaugen park. Northern Europe has a distinct wooden house tradition. Wooden houses are not allowed downtown, but these charming houses can be found in large numbers in villa suburbs such as Bygdøy and Holmenkollen, or former workers' areas such as Rodeløkka, Kampen, Vålerenga, Damstredet, Hellerud or Telthusbakken. Oslo also has many exciting building projects, and the city's whole waterfront will in few years have changed.

- Royal Palace, (T-Nationaltheateret, tram 13-19 to Slottsparken. Located at the end of KarlJohans gate, the city's main avenue.), [37]. Tours inside the palace are arranged in summertime, this year from June 21. The tickets for the tour must be bought in advance from a post office. If there are vacant spots in a tour, they sell the remaining tickets at the Palace itself to people waiting in line who don't already have tickets. Don't count on getting tickets on the spot unless you are quite ahead in the line since a lot of people buy them at the post offices. There are about 2 tours in English on weekdays.

- University of Oslo, (between the Royal Palace and Stortinget on the Karl Johans gate). The building is currently only housing the Faculty of Law, the rest of the university is situated at Blindern. Periodicly concerts will be arranged in the "Aula" housing 11 of Edward Munch pictures.

- Opera House, (all trams and buses to Jernbanetorget or Oslo S then take the footbridge from the seaside exit of Oslo central station, next to the Airport Express train terminal). Norway's first entry into the top league of modern architecture. Awarded the 2008 prize for best cultural building at the World Architecture Festival in Barcelona, and the prestigious Mies van der Rohe award for best European contemporary architecture in 2009, its appearance is stunning. Shaped as a glacier or a ship, the amazing building seems to float by the inlet Bjørvika, giving a stunning impression. Climb the building on the marble slopes (summer only) for a unique Oslo view. Shame, however, with the main highway currently passing close to it.

- Oslo Cathedral, (tram 11-17-18 or bus 37 to Stortorget, between T-Jernbanetorget and Stortinget). is none too impressive, but dominates parts of the down town scene. It is currently undergoing refurbishment, and is wrapped in plastic making it look like a concrete plant.

- Kirkeristen. the old bazaar surrounding the church, is now used by artisans and craftsmen, and holds a couple of cafes and restaurants.

- City Hall (Rådhuset), (T-Nationaltheateret, tram 12 to Rådhusplassen, bus 70-74 to Vika, located by the waterfront, with Fritdjof Nansensplass on the inland side). Open to the public, with a spectacular main hall featuring huge murals with typical Nordic socialist themes. There are also some displays of historical artifacts in the side rooms upstairs. This is where the Nobel Peace Prize is presented to its winner every year. Although there is no public lift, disadvantaged visitors only have to ask and they can then use the staff lift.

- Akershus Festning, (Tram 12 to Rådhusplassen, bus 60 to Bankplassen). A medieval castle and fortress built in 1299, located close to the city center. There are several excellent viewpoints to the Oslofjord and surrounding areas. The stone walls create an exciting atmosphere, and you are free to roam around in tight passages and staircases. There are two museums here, both related to Norwegian military history.

- Holmenkollen, (T-bane 1 towards Frognerseteren.), [38]. The ski jump located on the west side of Oslo, which was rebuilt for the World Ski Championships in 2011. It first opened in 1892 and has been re-built many times since then. It had more than 1 million visitors every year, and was one of the biggest tourist attractions in Norway. There is also the oldest ski museum in the world, opened in 1923. Walking and mountain bike riding are popular activities here during the summer.

- Stortinget (Parliament), (located on the main street, Karl Johans gate, in the city center (T-Bane, any line, Stortinget station, exit Egertorget). It has free guided tours in English and Norwegian lasting about 45 minutes, which assemble outside the back door of the Parliament (on Akersgata). There is a limit of 30 people per tour, so it is advisable to be there at least 10 minutes prior to the start of a tour.

Museums

For a small city, Oslo has an amazing number of museums. Many of them are located next to each other and don't take long to visit but, as with most things in Oslo, those with an entrance fee are not cheap. Entrance to many museums is now free.

If you are planning on seeing several of the expensive attractions in a short period of time, then the most cost effective way to do this is to buy an Oslo Pass [39]. It includes unlimited entry to most of the museums and the Holmenkollen ski jump (but not the Royal Palace), as well as free travel on Oslo's quite expensive public transport (NOK 220 for 24 hrs). Students get a 20% discount on the Oslo pass. You could also buy a travel card allowing unlimited travel on public transport (no student discount on this) for NOK 65 (24 hrs). You can buy 24, 48 or 72 hour Oslo passes or travel cards. They can be purchased at Tourist Information Offices in Oslo.

- Henrik Ibsen Museum, (Tram 13-19 or bus 30-31 to Slottsparken. Located in the crossing between Arbins gate and Henrik Ibsens gate.). This museum has just re-opened, and is a treat.

- Munch Museum, (T-bane, bus 20-60-67 to Tøyen), [40]. Features paintings by the Norwegian painter Edward Munch. Be aware that some of Edvard Munchs more famous pictures may actually be shown in the National Gallery, so don't complain that "The Scream" is not on display!

- National Gallery. featuring Norwegian art from the national-romantic period, as well as some art by international artists. Free entrance.

- Nobel Peace Centre, (Tram 12 to Aker Brygge, bus 70-74 to Vika or walk from T-Nationaltheateret), [41]. Includes some confronting exhibitions as well as an exhibit for every winner of the Nobel Peace Prize.

- Emanuel Vigeland Museum, (T-bane line 1 to Slemdal), [42]. Only open a few hours every Sunday afternoon. Among Oslos best hidden secrets. Gustav Vigeland's not so well-known younger brother erected the building as a museum for his art in 1926, but later decided it should serve as a mausoleum, with his urn placed above the door. The main attraction in this museum with no windows is the 800 square meters fresco "Vita", (Italian for "life"), showing the human life from conception till death, but other examples of his art are also on display.

Somewhat outside the city center is a peninsula called Bygdøy. You can get there by bus (number 30) or, in summer months (Apr--Sep), by ferry departing from pier 3 at Aker Brygge outside the city hall. At Bygdøy, you will find two groups of museums within walking distance of each other: In the first group, around 800 metres inland:

- The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, [43]. a large open air museum featuring typical buildings from various periods in Norwegian history. This includes a city building that shows living conditions from the 1850s to the 1980s.

- Viking Ship Museum. In addition to two 1100 year old Viking-ships (apparently the best preserved in the world), it also contains various other Viking artifacts and a Viking burial chamber, complete with ancient skeletons. 60 KNR Adults, 35 KNR Students / Pensioner, Children and 7-16 years 30 KNR, Family (2 Adults, 2 Children) 140 KNR.

In the second group, on the harbour:

- Norwegian Maritime Museum, [44]. Houses a huge collection of ships and boats and records the impact of Norway's seafarers on their own country and the world.

- Kon-Tiki Museum, [45]. Displays Tor Heyerdahl's balsa raft Kon-Tiki, and Ra II, as well as some other artifacts from Easter Island.

- Fram-Museum, [46]. Features the vessel Fram, the worlds first ice breaker and the last polar expedition ship made of wood, and presents a history of polar exploration (with a strong Norwegian focus!)

- The Holocaust Center, [47]. is also located at Bygdøy, in the former residence of the Norwegian World War 2 collaborator and nationalist leader, Vidkun Quisling. The center houses exhibitions and provides research on Holocaust and the plight of religious minorities.

Some other museums are:

- Norwegian Museum of Science and Technology & The Norwegian Telecommunications Museum, (Tram 11 or 12 to Kjelsås, bus 22, 25 or 54 or infrequent local train to Kjelsås stasjon), [48]. A fun and very interactive place for both children and adults. Contrary to information in the common tourist brochures this building.

- Tramway Museum, (metro, tram or bus to Majorstuen), [49]. Displays the history of Oslo's trams, buses and metro.

- DogA - The Norwegian Centre for Design and Architecture, Hausmanns gate 16 (Bus or tram to Hausmanns gate), +47 23292870 (info@doga.no), [50]. A thriving design and architecture centre providing areas for large and small exhibitions, conferences and meetings, activities for children, as well as a bookshop and café.

Parks

- Frogner Park, (T-bane, tram 11-19, bus 22-25-45-46 to Majorstua, tram 12 or bus 20 to Vigelandsparken), with the Vigeland Sculpture Park is a large green area about 10 minutes by subway from the city center. In addition to being a nice green recreational area, it is also decorated with hundreds of sculptures by the Norwegian artist Gustav Vigeland. There is a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere here, although the sculptures are a little depressing. If your children want to climb the statues, nobody will even bother to look twice at you. There is also a cafeteria, and two museums, the City Museum of Oslo and the Vigeland Museum. If you fancy an outdoor swim, Frognerbadet is situated next to the Frognerpark with 3 pools, several diving towers and a water slide.

- Botanical Garden, (tram 17 or bus 31 to Lakkegata skole or t-bane to Tøyen, walking distance 200 metres), [51]. Located just south of Tøyen park, the garden is a wonderful and relaxing area. Free entrance, opening hours 1 Apr-30 Sep: Sa-Su 10AM-8PM, M-F 7AM-8PM, 1 Oct-31 Mar: Sa-Su 10AM-5PM, M-F 7AM-5PM.

- St.Hanshaugen (bus 37 to St.Hanshaugen) is a delightful public park on the highest hill in central Oslo. Great view of the city and surroundings. 1000 meters easy walk from Karl Johan street along Akersgata-Ullevålsveien past Vår Frelsers Gravlund (cemetery). The park has also given name to this popular neighborhood as well as to the larger administrative district (borough) that includes major parts of central Oslo.

- Slottsparken (Palace Park) surrounds the Royal Palace at the top of Karl Johan street. Oslo's most central park is a pleasant grass covered area with majestic old trees. Wide walkways crisscross the park.

- Birkelunden and Olaf Ryes plass Two cool parks in eastern Oslo, situated in the Grunerløkka, a so called Greenwich village look-alike area. On sundays a market is open.

- Sofienbergparken A lot of activities all day long and especially in the weekends; ballplay, pick-nick, public barbecue, specially nice area for children.

- Visit Ekeberg, the steep, green hill east of centre. From the wide hairpin bend at road Valhallaveien there is a great view of the city. This point is assumed to be the background for 'Scream', Edvard Munch's famous picture.

- Stensbergparken is close to Bislett Stadium (trams 17 and 18). This charming park has an old church and a café on the top, and is your best bet if St. Hanshaugen is too crowdy (only a few minutes walk away.)

Other sights

- Vår Frelsers Cemetery, (Bus 33-37-46 to Nordahl Bruns gate), north of city center on Ullevålsveien holds the graves of Edvard Munch and Henrik Ibsen, two important literary figures in Norway's history. It is also the burial site of a host of reputed Norwegian individuals and families.

- Wooden housing areas of Oslo like Kampen (bus 60), Vålerenga (bus 37), Rodeløkka (tram 17, bus 31 to Sofienberg) and Telthusbakken (bus 34/54). They are a "must" for lovers of old wooden town houses. These areas were likely to be erased from Oslo in the seventies by eager town planners who wanted highways for cars rather than living areas for the citizens, but luckily they were stopped by idealists who really loved their city. Their effort made these parts of Oslo into something special, even though other Norwegian cities have bigger wooden areas. Still these areas are a plus for Oslo and their inhabitants as well as for the tourists. They are not a commonly visited by tourists, and may not be mentioned by your guide book, but some of the areas have cafes/restaurants worth a visit. In Kampen you can find a very cozy Elvis café by the church, and in Vålerenga Restaurant Smia ia also located by the church.

- Oslo-fjords (boat 91-92-93-94 from Vippetangen, bus 60 runs to the quay). There is also a bathing bus (number 87) running from mid-June to mid-August from Jernbanetorvet to the brilliant beaches Hvervenbukta, Bestemorstranda and Ingierstrand. Additionally, for Hvervenbukta you may take the train to Hauketo, then bus 76. Outdoor swimming pools can be found at Frognerparken and Tøyenbadet. Ingierstrand is a 1930's bathing resort with very special functionalist architecture. Buy a day return travel pass.

Do

- For beer tasting or 2 hours beer school, beer and food pairing, contact us by phone (+47) 46 92 52 05, by email: ringnes.olsenter@ringnes.no, or read more (in Norwegian) at www.ringnes.no Locations in the local city district "Grünerløkka".

- For fresh water swimming, Akerselva is considered clean north of Nydalen. The best spot may be at Frysja (bus 22-25-54 to Stillatorget). Don't forget that many of the lakes in "Oslomarka" are for swimming and recreation, but a couple of the major lakes (Maridalsvannet in particular) are drinking water for the city. Buy a map and bring your swimming gear!

- Visit the local city district Grünerløkka, (tram 11, 12 and 13 to Nybrua, Schous plass, Olaf Ryes plass or Birkelunden, tram 17 or bus 30-31 to Heimdalsgata or Birkelunden, or bus 21 to Sannergata). A part of the city filled with cafés, bars, small fashion and designer shops, nice parks. The river Akerselva runs on the west side, with a selection of (well hidden) bars, clubs and cafés nearby.

- Take walks or a bicycle ride in Oslo's many forests. Nice gateways to the beautiful nature are T-bane to Frognerseteren (line 1), Sognsvann (line 3), Romsås (line 5), Bogerud (line 3), Skullerud (line 3) or Ellingsrudåsen (line 2), or the train to Movatn or Snippen (local trains towards Hakadal, Roa, Jaren and Gjøvik). Also bus 56 from Torshov (tram 11, 12, 13 and bus 20) via Storo T-bane to Solemskogen or bus 51 from Nydalen (bus 37, T-bane 4, 5 and 6) to Maridalen offer fantastic possibilites for walks and rural life, everything less than half an hour from the city centre. Bring something to drink and a chocolate bar (and do a bit of planning, buses 51 and 56 and the train does seldom run more than once per hour). Be prepared for some muddy sections of the trail as they take you through some pretty thickly wooded areas. The forest is dense enough that any damp areas of the trail don't dry out. This isn't helped by the multitude of small run offs flowing down the mountain.

- The area around Holmenkollen (T-bane 1) is well suited for cross-country skiing, but also a nice area for hiking during summertime. While you are there, you can also visit the ski-museum which is located close to the ski-jump. For additional fun, buy a cheap sledge or "akebrett", or rent a proper one from Frognerseteren, and sleigh down from Frognerseteren to Midtstuen station. This was actually the venue of the sleighing competitions in the 1952 Winter Olympics, and the hill is referred to as "Korketrekkeren" (the corkscrew). If you buy a day-card for the subway, you can race all day long, but make sure you are well dressed, as you are going to get wet.

Festivals

- Ekebergsletta (bus 34 or 74) during Norway Cup (beginning of August every year), billed as the world's biggest football tournament (about 25,000 participants). Lots of fun and football. Held annually at the beginning of August.

Learn

- University of Oslo [52] is the biggest university in Norway.

- BI [53] is a private business school offering a range of courses and degree programs (bachelor, master, PhD).

- Oslo University College [54] has many different courses taught in English. International students, specifically, should look at the European Project Semester [55].

Work

If you're looking for work check out the website of the governmental agency NAV [56] or other sites like Topjobs [57], Manpower [58], Stepstone [59], Jobzone [60] and finn.no [61]

careerinnorway.no [62] is a website specially geared towards workers from outside of Norway.

Citizens from outside the EU/EEC area need a residence permit in order to work in Norway. This should be applied for at the Norwegian mission in your country of residence.

Buy

In 2010 Oslo was ranked the most expensive city in the world [63]. Still there are possibilities for getting bargains in Oslo during the big sales. The prices on famous brands are not higher in Oslo than in London or Paris, often lower even if they are not on sale. The big sales are in January and August.

Shopping Districts

If you are out to shop there's plenty to choose from. The main pedestrian street Karl Johans gate has plenty of shops of dubious quality,. The street Bygdøy allé (which is locally famous for its chestnut trees) (bus 20, 31) has regained its reputation of being a shopping street the past few years by establishments that focuses on kitchens, kitchenware, interior designs, exclusive norwegian furniture, light design and others. The street Møllergata (downtown, public transport from stops Stortorget and Møllerveien at either end of the street) was earlier known as the furniture street. You will still find a few good, but rather expensive shops for Norwegian furniture in this street. You can easily find this street close to the Christiania Glasmagasin and the street Torggata which contains a few home interior shops like KID, Hemtex and Åhlens (with a Muji-department in the basement).

Shopping Malls

- Aker Brygge, (Tram 12, bus 21, 33 or 54 to Aker Brygge/Bryggetorget/Vika Atrium), [64]. A seaside shopping and nightlife centre with high prices, but lots of glam and fun.

- Akersgata, (just above Stortinget T-bane, at the rear of the Norwegian parliament.). a few exclusive shops like Louis Vuitton, gold smith David-Andersen, Follestad, Corso Como, Ting. A brand new high-end shopping centre opened recently at Egertorget, called Eger. The most exclusive shopping-centre in Oslo.

- Bogstadveien, (Majorstuen metro station (tram 11 runs the length of the street)). Good for non-chain stores, focus on clothes and accessories.

- Byporten, (T-bane to Jernbanetorget), [65]. The latest addition to the shopping center scene. It's connected to the Central station. This shopping mall is focusing on everything. The travellers' choice! A lot of designers stuff, branded clothing, travel stuff and more.

- Glasmagasinet, (tram 10-11-17-18 or bus 37-46 to Stortorvet), [66]. dates back to the 18th century, where you can find souvenirs, crystal, china, fashion, kitchenware, interior design and much more. The department store is famous for their large area of cosmetique sales.

- House of Oslo, (Bus 32, 33 or 54 to Dokkveien), [67]. a recently opened shopping center focusing on interior designs with around 20 different shops with their own theme. This may be the most exquisite interior design center in northern Europe. Illum Bolighus is especially worth a visit (this is a subsidiary of a famous Danish department store).

- Oslo City, (T-bane to Jernbanetorget), [68]. a big shopping center just across the street from the Central station. The shopping center is focused on the young people.

- Paleet, (T-bane to Nationaltheateret, Close to the National Theatre (Nationalteateret) and Royal Palace.), [69]. an upmarket, central shopping centre.

- Steen & Strøm, (situated on a side street of KarlJohansgate.), [70]. One of Oslo's oldest department stores and is newly renovated and very stylish with a number of clothing shops with famous brands as well as a cosmetique and an interior design floor. On top you will find an outdoor cafe with view all over the city centre and the surroundings.

Specialty Stores

- Baby Shop AS, Ullevålsveien 11 (bus 33, 37 or 46 to Nordahl Bruns gate), 22209966, [71]. 10-18. Baby Shop is one of Oslo oldest and most traditional baby stores. It is famous for its celebrity shoppers like the Princess of Norway Märtha Louise and the Crown Princess Mette-Marit. (37.0625,95.677068)

- Frelsesarmeen (Salvation Army), Kirkeveien 62 and other locations (T-bane to Majorstuen), [72]. Salvation Army second-hand store done Norwegian style! Super high quality clothes, some furnishings, and a SA café/Sally Anne (SA's fair-trade concept store) right next door. Great place for inexpensive hats/gloves/socks when the Oslo winter sneaks up on you.

- Living Large, [73]. A store for both tall and solid men, sizes range form 3X to 9X with decent formal and informal clothes.

Eat

There are a lot of both expensive and cheap places to eat in Oslo. The cheapest restaurants are Asian restaurants which in many cases serve good food at low prices. Check the menus on the door.

Buy at least one 19NOK Hotdog. They are referred to as "grillpølse" or "kjempegrill" and they are great for keeping the low blood sugar troll at bay and to increase your weight! Other street snacks are also available throughout the city, but it's usually more expensive than in comparable cities elsewhere.

Aker Brygge (tram 12, bus 21, 32, 33 or 54; stops Aker Brygge, Vika Atrium or Bryggetorget) is a waterfront located south of the city hall. During summer the area is very noisy and vibrant. There are outdoor restaurants and bars almost everywhere. Be sure to get some tasty sea-food (or whatever else you like to eat) while you are there, or just enjoy your cold beer in the summer sea-breeze. Be advised that this is also the most expensive area in Oslo to dine or drink, so unless the weather is good, you can just as well stay indoors somewhere else.

You are also close to most of the restaurants, bars, or nightclubs located within the city center. A key reference point will be Stortingsgaten, running parallel to Karl Johans gate, both running eastwards from the Royal Palace (this is also the main shopping area). While both of these streets have a few restaurants and nightclubs, most will be found in one of the side-streets running out from them, or parallel to them. It doesn't matter much where you start, you will find restaurants, bars, and nightclubs almost anywhere from the subway station Nationaltheatret at the west, to far beyond Oslo central railroad station on the east. There are several other areas, such as Grünerløkka (tram 11-12-13 to Nybrua, Schous plass, Olaf Ryes plass or Birkelunden), Majorstuen(T-bane, tram 11-12-19 or bus 20-22-25-45-46 to Majorstua), and Grønland (T-bane to Grønland, bus 37 to Tøyengata or bus 60 to Norbygata) that are worth checking out. Be advised that nearly all bars and nightclubs close at the same time, so if you want to get a taxi back to your hotel, try to leave a few minutes before the rush starts.

Budget

Torggata

Torggata is a good area for budget dining (from Hausmanns gate south to Youngstorget). You will find cheap Vietnamese, Thai, and Chinese restaurants and even cheaper kebab-joints and pizzerias, as well as other offerings. It's close to the center, but you can get bus 34 or 54 to Jacob's church (Jacob kirke), or tram 11-12-13-17/bus 30-31-34-54 to Brugata or Hausmanns gate. The closest T-bane station is Grønland (then walk north along Brugata) or Jernbanetorget (then walk north-east).

Some great offerings in this area include:

- Hai Cafe, Calmeyers gate. Good fried or fresh spring rolls, tasty duck breast hoi sin sauce with pac choi. In general tasty and cheap.

- Bari, Torggata. Inventive name for a pizza joint, the best in the area.

- Bislett Kebab, Hegdehaugsveien 2 (tram 11, 17 and 18 to Høyskolesenteret), [74]. Voted Oslos best kebab many times, not the cheapest place, but good value for money. However if you want authentic kebab try Torggata or the beginning of Trondheimsveien.

- Curry and Ketchup, Kirkeveien 51 (near Majorstuen station). Cheap and popular indian restaurant, often full during the weekends. Cash only.

- Dalat Kafe, Osterhaus gate (Bus 34-54 to Jacobs kirke/Calmeyers gate). Vietnamese. Simple interiour but very popular among people who appreciate authentic Vietnamese food. Dishes and beverages at affordable prices.

- IKEA Furuset, Strømsveien 303 (Free shuttle bus to here near the corner of Fred Olsens gate and Prinsens gate.). Shop for furniture and eat! Hotdogs for 5 NOK and pizza slices for 15 NOK..

- Krishna's Cuisine, Sørkedalsveien 10B, Majorstuen (T-bane, tram 11-12-19 or bus 22-25-45-46. New locations next to Colosseum Cinema at Majorstuen.), [75]. Everything vegetarian. Daily meal option with choice of side dishes: NOK 100 and up..

- L'Oasis Mazze, Trondheimsveien 14 (Tram 17 or bus 31 to Lakkegata skole, then walk towards the city center), [76]. Beduin-style restaurant run by Palestinians. Falafels, tagine, etc. Good for lunch or dinner. Friendly staff and low prices.

- Lekkerbisken, Hammersborggata 8. Offers a decent variety of sushi, cooked food, salads and baguette sandwiches. Large sushi portions aside, prices generally do not exceed 60 NOK.

- Marino, Torggata. Generally accepted as the best kebab in the area, but steadily contested by Mediterran and Lille Amir.

- Mitsu, Møllergata east (Bus 34-54 to Møllerveien). Japanese/Asian. Probably the best budget sushi in town, as well as baguettes (from 30kr) and a few hot dishes. Not the most cosy place to eat, but a great place for a cheap lunch or dinner.

- Nam Sushi, Sannergata 28. The restaurant offers good sushi for a nice price. Featuring about 10 seats, the place could be considered more a take-away than an actual restaurant.

- Noahs Ark, (close to Birkelunden (tram 11-12-13)). has some excellent Turkish dishes. Burgers, pizza and breakfast are also available from NOK49 and upwards. A cozy place with occasional unexpected classical music played early in the day.

- Rice Bowl Thai Cafe, Youngs gate 4 (between Torggata and Storgata). Seems to be packed with locals at all times. Thai food is OK but a bit bland. main courses for about 90 NOK.

- Sakana Sushi, Prinsens gate 2. Closed on Sundays.. Good sushi at low prices. 7 pieces: NOK 69; Take-away vietnamese spring rolls:NOK 10.

- Saigon Lille Kafe, Bernt Ankers gate. The first of the Vietnamese bargain offerings are still going strong. Although the food in Vietnam is known to be tastier, you'll need a plane ticket to Hanoi to get it this cheap! (at least it feels like that when you're used to Norwegian food prices).

- Slottsparken Kafe, (close to the Royal Palace (bus 30-31-32, tram 13-19)). The best baguettes in town, also decent sushi. Charming seating area on the second floor, with a big sofa and lots of small tables.

- Tay Do Cafe, Torggata Bad. Vietnamese. Try the 'Dagens' (daily special) for only about 80 NOK, or some of their other Vietnamese offerings.

- Valkyrien Take Away, Bogstadveien 71B (close to Majorstuen T-bane). Their burgers are famous. Limited seating, but there is a very small park close to it where you can enjoy your food.

Grønland

Gronland is full of cheap eating joints, shops selling fabrics and jewellery, Indian and Pakistani sweet shops, cheap beer and more. Some of the best treats are:

- Ali Baba Restaurant, Grønland Bazar (Inside the new shopping mall). A Turkish cafeteria with no-frills, decent food. Meals are pricier and less exquisite than they used to be.

- Punjab Tandoori, Grønlandsleiret (just by Grønland T-bane eastern exit). The friendliest Sikh in the world dishes out cheap, tasty Indian food from the microwave or stove. No real tandoor.

- Sushi Deluxe, Schweigaards gate 50 (Gamlebyen. Take tram lines 18 or 19 eastwards from Jernbanetorget, get off at at the Munkegata stop, or take the metro to Grønland (about 5-10 minutes walk eastwards along Grønlandsleiret)). Great tasting sushi meals from as little as NOK 79. Also have small daily specials for NOK 59 (fried rice, fried noodles etc.).

- Tandoori Curry Corner, Grønlandsleiret. The neighbouring restaurant of the Punjab Tandoori is even cheaper, but the helpings are smaller and packs less of a punch.

- Vann & Brød, Tøyenbekken (by Grønland Bazar). In an old prison, this Spanish joint has cheap-ish tapas dishes and wine by the glass.

- Vognmann Nilsen, Rubina Ranas gate 3 (On the main square of New Grønland). Daily specials: NOK 99.

Norwegian Food

Most cafes and restaurants serving traditional food are upmarket, but there are a couple of good spots to get stuffed on meat cakes and brown gravy, lutefisk and other delicacies:

- Dovrehallen, (Storgata near Jernbanetorvet (T-Jernbanetorget or any tram to Jernbanetorget or Brugata).). Old-style beer hall serving delicious meat-and potato-dishes, often for less than NOK 100. Tuesdays are Eisbein day, be there!

- Schrøder, Waldemar Thranes gate (bus 21-33-37-46 to St. Hanshaugen). Dark drinking den with delicious, traditional, cheap and fattening Norwegian food.

- Carl Berner-kjelleren, Trondheimsv 113 (20 m from the Carl Berner intersection. Bus 20, 21, 31 or 33, tram 17 or T-bane 5 and 6 to Carl Berners plass). Beer hall with cheap and varied food, including classic Norwegian everyday dishes.

Elsewhere

You can always get your fix of sausage and kiosk-food at above-reasonable prices, but there are a few restaurants and cafes worth mentioning. The fastfood and kiosk chains 7-11 and the Norwegian Deli de Luca might provide you with some decent, (though overpriced) pastries and cakes, but in general you should always ask the staff how fresh the food is, sushi is only delivered in the morning and in the afternoon, and if you want this at night, the chances are big that it has been lying there for ten to twelve hours, this counts also for everything else they serve. You will be better off at most kebab kiosks.

- Aka Cafe, on Bogstadveien. Offers excellent European and Mid-East coffees and teas, with a small but tasty menu of Arabic snacks. Relatively inexpensive beer and liquor in an expensive and trendy location make this cafe a local favourite.

- Hurry Curry, near Bogstadveien. Redundant but passable curries served in small portions dominate the menu, and they also have one of the best priced bars in the area. Starting NOK 65.

- Prince Lunch Bar, Prinsens gate (close to the department store Steen & Strøm). The best baguettes downtown. Delivers lashings of filling on their allmighty subs. Also chicken breast, fish and beef burgers. NOK54 for everything..

- Rådhuset Canteen, In the cellar of the city hall. noon-1PM. The canteen is open to the public, and offers good, sumptuous meals at even lower prices than the student canteens. Not many tourists know about the place, so it can be a very quiet place to have a meal. They sell salads, sandwiches, boiled potatoes, cereal bars and other snacks. A filling box of salad (sold by weight) can cost less than NOK 40. .

- Sawasdee, Sporveisgata (Tram 11-19 to Rosenborg). In this generally overpriced area, this Thai restaurant looks dangerous from the outside, but do decent renditions of Thai classics. Set 3-course menus from NOK199, and duck dishes for as little as NOK149..

- Tasty Thai, Pilestredet (Tram 17-18 to Bislett). Just around the corner from the football pub Store Stå). Oslo's best budget Thai offering.

- University of Oslo Student Canteen, Blindern (T-bane 4-5-6 to Blindern or tram 17-18 to Universitetet Blindern). <Student canteen food at student prices. Several canteens dish up filling food at budget prices, the main canteen in the Fredrikke building has edible meals at under NOK 50. There's also several other student canteens, although they are closed during the summer. One branch in the city centre is at St. Olavs plass.

Mid-range

- Carlton Hotel, Parkveien 78 (near Aker Brygge), [124]. 50 rooms, small but good value. Restaurant with Japanese food.

- Radisson SAS Nydalen, Nydalesveien 33 (T Nydalen, 15 minute ride to center), +47-2326-3000, [125]. Choose from funky "Chilli" or more staid "Urban" rooms NOK 900+, breakfast included.

- Radisson SAS Plaza Hotel, Sonja Henies Plass 3, [126]. With 37 floors and breathtaking views of Oslo and the Oslo Fjord, the Radisson SAS Plaza Hotel is Northern Europe’s highest and Norway’s largest hotel. Suited 3 min walk from the train station. NOK 1300+.

- Thon Hotel Gyldenlove, Bogstadveien 20, [127]. Newly renovated hotel, with excellent location in Oslo's west quarter, right in the city's best shopping avenue, Bogstadveien.

- Thon Hotel Terminus, Stenersgaten 10 (downtown), [128].

- Thon Hotel Bristol, Kristian IV's gate 7 (right in the city centre, near the National Gallery and the main shopping street KarlJohansgate), [129]. As soon as you enter the lobby you will experience the unique style characterising the hotel. An air of elegance which have been maintained since the opening in 1920. From NOK 661.

Splurge

- Grand Hotel Oslo, Karl Johans Gate 31, +47 23 21 20 00, [130]. The hotel where Nobel Peace Prize winners stay when coming to Oslo for the award ceremony. Expensive and lots of services. Excellent view over main street Karl Johans gate. Grand Café, at street level, was Henrik Ibsen's daily watering hole, and is Norway's answer to Vienna's Cafe Landtmann. From NOK 2,175.

- Grims Grenka, Kongens gate 5, [131]. Five star hotel which has received international acclaim. Operated by First hotels. Member of Design hotels.

- Hotel Continental Oslo, Stortingsgaten 24/26 (Located between the National Theatre and Aker Brygge), +47 22 82 40 00, [132]. Family-run hotel has a large Vienna-style cafe (Theatercafeen) which is the place to be seen in Oslo. Outstanding service and prices to match, still considered fair value for money. Nice quiet bar with original Edvard Munch litographs.

Drink

Buying alcohol in stores

Beer can be purchased in supermarkets at a cost of NOK 10-16 for a 0.33l bottle. Supermarkets stop selling beer after 8pm each day, 6pm on Saturdays, and 3pm on holiday weekends. It is not possible to buy beer in a shop on a Sunday. It is illegal to drink in public areas. You will usually only get a warning if spotted by a police officer, but if you behave impolitely or he/she is having a bad day you can get a fine of NOK 1500. However, in public parks during summer, laws are not enforced as strictly. Good places to go for a park beer is Sofienbergparken and Kuba at Grünerløkka, Frognerparken in Majorstua, or the park at St. Hanshaugen, on a hill with great view located between Grünerløkka and Majorstuen.

Hard liquor or wine can only be bought at international airport terminals or state-owned shops called Vinmonopolet [84]. Vinmonopolet outlets are open Mon-Fri till 6PM, Sat till 3PM, Sun closed. Some of the central Vinmonopolet outlets in Oslo are:

- Oslo Central Station, beneath the staircase leading down to Trafikanten

- In the basement of Oslo City shopping centre

- In the Steen og Strøm shopping centre, close to Karl Johans gate

- Rosenkrantzgate 11, close to Grand Hotel, Karl Johans gate

- In the House of Oslo shopping centre, Vika (tram 12 to Vikatorvet)

- Thereses gate, Bislett (near Bislett stadium, trams 17 and 18)

Pubs and bars

All bars, pubs and restaurants in Oslo are smoke-free, which means you have to go outside to smoke. But since you can't drink on the street, you have to leave your drink inside, unless the bar/pub has a designated drink-area which is still open (they always close earlier than the venues themselves). Oslo is generally expensive. The price for a half-litre of beer is typically ranging from 58-70 NOK. Closing hours are as late as to 03:30 in city center. National legislation says you can't serve any alcohol after 03:00.

Areas with notable pub density are Grünerløkka (tram 11-12-13 to Nybrua, Schous plass, Olaf Ryes plass or Birkelunden), Aker Brygge (tram 12 to Aker Brygge or bus 21-32-33-54 to Vika Atrium or Bryggetorget), Solli/Frogner (tram 12-13 or bus 30-31 to Solli), Grønland (T-bane to Grønland, bus 37 to Tøyengata or bus 60 to Norbygata) and the city centre especially Youngstorget or Grensen.

- Andy's Pub, Stortingsgata 8 (T-bane Stortinget, tram 13-19 to Wessels plass/Nathionaltheateret, bus 31-32-33-54-70 stop nearby), [85]. Shows most football matches on LCD TVs.

- Bar Boca, Thorvald Meyers Gate 30 Gruenerlokka. The teeny-weeny Bar Boca is the place to go in Oslo if you fancy an innovative and memorable cocktail. Owner Jan Vardøen has become something of a local legend for his mixing skills and his intimate little bar has become a destination for those serious about their drink. This warm cozy bar, with its low-key 1950s décor, may be matchbox sized, with just five tables, but it's the drinks that rule here and they won't let you down.

- Beer Palace, Holmens Gate 3 (Aker Brygge), [86]. A popular pub with fair selection of Norwegian and foreign beers. In addition to enjoying good beer it's possible to play darts and get a slice of pizza. Every Monday an international beer course is held here by Ølakademiet [87].

- Blå, (in the artsy/alternative place close to Akerselva called Hausmania), [88]. Be sure to check their event calendar, every week they have concerts with a variety of international and norwegian bands and/or DJs. Walk up the river from the centre and you'll find it. Old factory style houses with lots of grafitti.

- Bohemen (“the Bohemian”), Arbeidergata 2 (T-bane Stortinget, tram 11-17-18 or bus 33-70 to Prof. Aschehougs plass/Tinghuset), +47-22416266, [89]. The best place to watch football (soccer) and sports in general, and to have a cheapish beer. Official Vålerenga supporter pub.

- Café Arté, St. Olavs gate 7 (Tram 11-17-18 to Tullinløkka or bus 37 to Nordahl Bruns gate), [90]. Lovely cafe serving beer, wine, drinks and small dishes in a intimate cellar cafe with a continental touch. An artist hangout with a small and hidden backyard. The only cafe that offers you a feeling of being abroad while relaxing in the heart of Oslo. 500ml beer: NOK 52.

- Cafe Fiasco, Schweigaards gate 4 (next to the train station), [91]. Classy place that is not expensive at all. Also has live music and DJs with NOK70 cover charge. Beer: NOK 50.

- Cafe Sara, corner of Torggata and Hausmanns gate. (Bus 34-54 to Jacobs kirke), [92]. Conveniently close to Anker Hostel, Cafe Sara pours beer and dishes up tasty Turkish and Mexican dishes for not too much money. Great outdoor seating. Very nice pub with a great atmosphere and well known for its cheap but great food.

- Cafe Stolen, Helgesens gate by Sofienberg park (Tram 11-12-13 to Olaf Ryes plass). Indian cuisine and cheap beer in an informal setting. No name on the door, just a chair hanging from above the door (hence the name 'the chair').

- Champagneria, Frognerveien. (Tram 12-13 or bus 21-30-31 to Solli/Lapsetorvet.), [93]. Spanish cava and tapas bar, fairly cheap and enjoyable.

- Choice Pub, ønlandsleiret (T-Grønland). A rowdy bar with very cheap beer. Popular with the locals. Beer: NOK 39.

- Dubliner, Rådhusgata (Tram 12 to Christiania torv). A nice Irish pub a little off Karl Johans gate, does a good fish and chips (and a few rounds of Guinness with which to wash it down). In Norway: Good fish? Always! Good chips? Never! Except maybe here.

- Dr. Jekylls Pub, Klingenbergg 4, [94]. Whisky bar with wide selection.

- Elm Street, Dronningsgate 32, [95]. Popular rock/metal bar that serves a decent burger. Often concerts in the weekends.

- Fyret Mat & Drikke, Youngstorget 6, [96]. Intimate and lively pub and resturaunt which serves unpretentious, good food. They have an outstanding collection of akevitt (akvavit), the scandinavian potato spirit that you should check out, though you won't necessary love it unconditionally.

- Gloria Flames, Grønland 18, [97]. Popular and hip rock/indie pub with great cocktails. Nice outdoor seating area that is open until midnight. Beer: NOK 34 weekday nights before midnight.

- Hard Rock Cafe, Karl Johansgate 45 (T-bane, tram 13-19 or bus 30-31-54-70 to Nationaltheatret), +47-22863000, [98]. Dealing mainly with, as the name suggests, rock nostalgia from the 50's, this should be familiar. Pricey.

- Hell's Kitchen, Møllergata 23, Youngstorget corner of Møllergata (Tram 11-12-13-17 or bus 30-31-34-54 to Kirkeristen/Nygata/Brugata). pizza and music, lots of beer and cocktails. Brilliant place that once was the heyday of hipness, a reputation it has to leave to its own basement (The Villa) and Revolver, just down the street. Still a good corner to drop into.

- Highbury, Bogstadveien 50, [99]. Official Arsenal supporter pub in Norway.

- Kampen Bistro, Bøgata 21 (Bus 60 to Kampens park or T-bane 1-2-3-4 to Ensjø), [100]. Great food and affordable beer in a local restaurant in Kampen, one of the most picturesque residential areas of Oslo.

- Oslo Ocean Bar, Trondheimsveien 20, [101]. a neighborhood bar customers, mostly returning, at every time of the day (from 8AM...). The staff is great! The service is impeccable despite the low prices and the very unpretentious surroundings (and clientele). 500ml beer: NOK 40.

- Palace Grill, Solligata 2 (just by Solli plass (tram 12,13 or bus 21,30,31,32 to Solli/Lapsetorvet)), [102]. In addition to the gourmet restaurant (see above) the palace also includes a separate bar with nice drinks and concerts every Monday, plus the 3-story outdoor seating area "Skaugum" with lots of concert during summer.

- Robinet, Mariboes gate 7b. A little gem of a bar that serves some of the best drinks in town. It's not much more than a hole in the wall, so don't expect to get a seat. The bartenders (who are often a bit moody, so no music requests!) play everything from free jazz to krautrock to gangsta-rap on the sound system.

- Südøst, Trondheimsveien 5 (Bus 30-31, tram 17 to Heimdalsgata). A short walk from the Anker hostel, this place has become quite fashionable. Lovely outdoor seating, great (but a tad expensive) food and a marvellous dining room. 500ml beer: NOK 52.

- Teddy's Soft Bar, Brugata 3A (Tram 11-12-13-17 or bus 30-31-34-54 to Brugata, T-bane to Grønland). Established in 1958, this is the only bar in Oslo that's protected by cultural authorities, due to its true '50s setting with original interior. This is where the rockabilly cats and kittens hang out and low-key rock and film stars lurk in the corners. Teddy's brought milk shakes to Norway, but sadly they've stopped serving those. They do serve beer, wine, spirits, soft drinks and various coffee drinks. And you can have lunch or late breakfast (omelets, eggs & bacon, sandwiches) or dinner (nice burgers, soups). Music provided by an original Wurlitzer jukebox with mostly '50s and '60s hits. 500ml beer: NOK 52.

- Tekehtopa, St. Olavs plass. (Tram 17-18 to Tullinløkka or bus 37 to Nordahl Bruns gate), [103]. Lovely cafe serving beer, wine, drinks and small dishes in a fabulous former pharmacy. (Tekehtopa spelled backwards, apotheket, actually means "the pharmacy" in Norwegian.) One of the prettiest cafes around! Adjoined by Bar Babylon, an industrial-style club with wonderful back yard seating. 500ml beer: NOK 52.

- Two Dogs, Brugata (Tram 11-12-13-17 or bus 30-31-34-54 to Brugata, T-bane to Grønland). English-style football pub with big screen, jolly atmosphere and darts. 500ml beer: NOK 49.

- Verkstedet, Hausmannsgate 29 (Bus 34-54 to Jacobs kirke. On the right hand side of Cafe Sara). Nice rock bar with a cozy and great backyard which it shares with Cafe Sara. The club also has a stage, where both local and foreign acts do appear. At the weekends the club transforms into a rock disco, where you can dance to great rock music. The bar dishes up with great coctails and unlimited amounts of beer, both on tap and bottles.

- Zen Spiseri og Cafebar, Vogts gate, Torshov (Tram 11-12-13 to Biermanns gate, then continue for 300 metres), +47 22 38 30 38. A mysteriously stylish interior for a dive bar, dishing out some of Oslo's cheaper beer. Laid-back, relaxing atmosphere, usually draws a somewhat older crowd. Small menu with passable food. 500ml beer: NOK 39.

Clubs & live music

Rock music

- Last Train, Karl Johans Gate 45, entrance Universitetsgaten, [105]. Sandwiched between a theatre and Hard Rock Cafe this gem is easily overlooked. One of the best (and longest lasting) rock/punk/metal/indie pubs in norway.

- Cafe Mono, Pløens gate 4 (Tram 11-12-13-17 or bus 30-31-34-54 to Kirkeristen/Nygata/Brugata.), [106]. Rock/indie music club with local rock stars, frequent concerts with up-and-coming Oslo acts, not too expensive beer and a great back garden for smoking.. One of the better places to pick up indie-chicks in Oslo. 500ml beer: NOK 52.

- Revolver, Møllergata 32 (On the eastern fringes of Møllergata), [107]. Rock pub with most of Oslo's hipsters lurking in the corners. Not too expensive, and quite an extensive choice of beers on tap.

- Sound of Mu, Markveien 58 (Bus 34-54 to Jakobs Kirke/Calmeyers gate or tram 11-12-13 to Nybrua), [108]. Small bar and gallery space run by artist collective. Art exhibitions, club nights with DJs and concerts, mostly underground/experimental/improvised music. 500ml beer: NOK 48.

Gay

- London Pub, C. J. Hamros plass 5 (Central Oslo, two blocks from Karl Johan on the corner of the Grand Hotel), [109]. The largest gay and lesbian Venue in Oslo.

- So, Arbeidergata 2 (Just off Karl johan). Open Wed-Sat. Mostly aimed at girls. Nice cosy bar which gets packed Saturday night.

- Elsker, Kristian IVs gate 9 (Next to the Thon Hotel Bristol, one block from Karl Johan.). Open Wed-Sat from 3 PM.

- Ett Glass, Karl Johans Gate 33B (Next to the main Street, Karl Johans Gate and the National Theatre.), [110].

Sleep

Getting a hotel in Oslo can potentially be difficult. In peak periods, when big fairs or conferences visit Oslo, tourists have been sent as far as Lillehammer (170 kms, 2h 15 min by train) to find accommodation. It would be smart to reserve a room in advance. There are also relatively few youth hostels, etc., for backpackers and people travelling on a budget. During Nobel Prize week room availability will fall and prices may double.

Budget

Camping

- Bogstad Camping, 9 kms out of town at the entrance of picturesque Sørkedalen (T-bane 2 to Røa, then bus 32, 41 or 47 to Bogstad Camping or Peder Ankers plass), [111]. Bogstad has cabins as well as tent space.

- Ekeberg Camping, (Bus 34, 46 or 74 to Ekeberg Camping. The trip takes 10 minutes from Central Station.), [112]. checkin: 7.30 AM to 11.00 PM. Open June 1- September 1. The closest campsite to central Oslo. Beautiful view of the city. No cabins. Owned by the Norwegian Automobile Federation. Mini-golf and horse rental. Fully equipped sanitary facilities: showers with hot and cold water, toilets, kitchen, launderette. 4-person tent: NOK 260.

- Langøyene Island, (take ferry 94 from Vippetangen). Not an official campsite; however, Langøyene Island is the only Oslo fjord that allows free camping (tents only). You may only stay 2 days unless you have special permission. You must keep the island clean. Police have their own boats and enforce these laws via hefty fines. Free!.

- Oslo Fjord Camping, 8km south of Oslo central station (Train to Hauketo, then corresponding bus 76 to Hvervenbukta, or bus 87 (both options summer only)), [113]. Near the beautiful swimming spot of Hvervenbukta. 2-person tent: NOK 150; 4-person tent: NOK 200.

Hostels

- Anker Hostel, Storgata (tram 11-12-13-17, bus 30-31 to Hausmanns gate), +47 22 99 72 00 (hostel@anker.oslo.no), [114]. 290 beds. Very centrally located, 5 minutes walk to the central station or Grünerløkka. Dorm bed: NOK 200-250.

- Haraldsheim Youth Hostel, Sinsenkrysset (tram 17 or bus 23-24-31-33, 4 km from downtown Oslo), [115]. The biggest HI hostel in Oslo. Not too far from the action (but it is hard to find), walking distance to the lively neighbourhoods of Torshov and Grünerløkka. Located in a very quiet area of Oslo, this is a place you'd go to sleep, not to party. The breakfast is outstanding for a hostel and is vegan-friendly, although with reduced choice. It is advisable to reconfirm your booking before you come and inform at what time you are going to arrive although the reception is open 24 hours. Double room: NOK 620; Dorm bed: NOK 240, breakfast included.

- Oslo Holtekilen Hostel, Stabekk/Kveldsroveien (train to Stabekk, or bus 151, 153, 161, 162, 252 or 261 to Kveldsroveien), [116]. HI hostel. Outside the city border, extra fee needed if you have Oslo Transport card. Open May-August. In a picturesque neighbourhood close to the sea.

- Oslo Hostel Rønningen YMCA, Myrerskogveien 54, Rønningen (Metro 5 or tram 11, 12 and 13 go to Storo, and from there bus 56 until Rønningen. Bus 56 only runs twice an hour, but every 20 minutes during rush hour), +47 21023600 (hostel@ronningen.fhs.no), [117]. checkin: 15-18. Open June 1 - August 19. 7.5 km from the center.

- Perminalen Hotell, Øvre Slottsgate 2 (T-bane to Stortinget, bus 30-31-32-54 to Wessels plass, tram 10-12-13-19 to Kongens gate), [118]. Perminalen offers slightly higher standards at slightly higher prices. OK cafe with good, old Norwegian homely grub at nice prices. Bed in 4-bed dorm: NOK 370; Single: NOK 620; Twin: NOK 840.

- Sentrum Pensjonat, Tollbugata 8, entrance from Skippergata (300 meters from Oslo Central station), [119]. Dorm bed: NOK 290; Single: NOK 500; Double: NOK 750.

Hotels

- Cochs Pensjonat, Parkveien 25 (tram 11 to Majorstua and 5 minutes walk or subway to Nationaltheatret and walk 10 minutes), [120]. Centrally located, next to the Royal Palace and Slottsparken. Three types of room to meet all budgets. They don't serve breakfast but have agreement with near cafe.

- Oslo Budget Hotel, [121]. The cheapest rooms require shared bathrooms. Single: 495 NOK; Double: 595 NOK.

- Thon Hotel Astoria, Dronningensgate 21 (50 metres from the main street Karl Johan, 5 minute walk from Oslo Central Station), [122]. Single: 695 NOK; Double: 895 NOK.

- Thon Hotel Munch, Munchs gate 5, [123]. A short walk to the main street, as well as easy walking distance to public transportation, airport shuttle bus and a vast variety of shops, restaurants, museums and theatres. Single: 695 NOK; Double: 895 NOK.

Mid-range

- Carlton Hotel, Parkveien 78 (near Aker Brygge), [124]. 50 rooms, small but good value. Restaurant with Japanese food.

- Radisson SAS Nydalen, Nydalesveien 33 (T Nydalen, 15 minute ride to center), +47-2326-3000, [125]. Choose from funky "Chilli" or more staid "Urban" rooms NOK 900+, breakfast included.

- Radisson SAS Plaza Hotel, Sonja Henies Plass 3, [126]. With 37 floors and breathtaking views of Oslo and the Oslo Fjord, the Radisson SAS Plaza Hotel is Northern Europe’s highest and Norway’s largest hotel. Suited 3 min walk from the train station. NOK 1300+.

- Thon Hotel Gyldenlove, Bogstadveien 20, [127]. Newly renovated hotel, with excellent location in Oslo's west quarter, right in the city's best shopping avenue, Bogstadveien.

- Thon Hotel Terminus, Stenersgaten 10 (downtown), [128].

- Thon Hotel Bristol, Kristian IV's gate 7 (right in the city centre, near the National Gallery and the main shopping street KarlJohansgate), [129]. As soon as you enter the lobby you will experience the unique style characterising the hotel. An air of elegance which have been maintained since the opening in 1920. From NOK 661.

Splurge

- Grand Hotel Oslo, Karl Johans Gate 31, +47 23 21 20 00, [130]. The hotel where Nobel Peace Prize winners stay when coming to Oslo for the award ceremony. Expensive and lots of services. Excellent view over main street Karl Johans gate. Grand Café, at street level, was Henrik Ibsen's daily watering hole, and is Norway's answer to Vienna's Cafe Landtmann. From NOK 2,175.

- Grims Grenka, Kongens gate 5, [131]. Five star hotel which has received international acclaim. Operated by First hotels. Member of Design hotels.

- Hotel Continental Oslo, Stortingsgaten 24/26 (Located between the National Theatre and Aker Brygge), +47 22 82 40 00, [132]. Family-run hotel has a large Vienna-style cafe (Theatercafeen) which is the place to be seen in Oslo. Outstanding service and prices to match, still considered fair value for money. Nice quiet bar with original Edvard Munch litographs.

Contact

Internet access

Most of the internet cafes are located in the eastern part of town or Grønland. Look for small shops selling telephone cards - they usually have internet terminals. If you carry your own laptop, WLANs will be easy to find at cafes, hotels, bars and even in parks. For a good overview of free WLAN sites look here: [133] (in norwegian). There are several open wifi connections on the upper level cafes at the train station Oslo Sentralstation and the subway station at Grønland.

- Deichmanske Bibliotek (Library), [134]. Free wifi and 30 minutes of free use of computer terminals at all locations.

- Unginfo, Møllergata, [135]. Free use of computer terminal for 30 minutes for people 26 and under, although age is rarely checked.

- Arctic Internet, Inside the train station Oslo S On the third floor (one level up in the main hall), [136]. The most complete Internet cafe - business center with full spectra of services and personnel onsite.

- Oslo S Train Station. On the first and second floor, there are several automated stand alone computers setup for basic internet surfing, as well as an Internet cafe in the bus terminal next to the central station.

- 7-11. Many 7-eleven shops have terminals you can use for a small fee, although this is not a very convenient way to surf if you need to use the computer for a long time.

- Litteraturhuset, Wergelandsveien 29. Free wifi with purchase.

- Internet cafe, (Across from the Nationaltheatret next to a pub called Paddy's).

- Oslo City Shopping Center. Internet kiosks.

- Byråkrat, [137]. Free wifi with purchase.

- QBA, Grünerløkka. Free wifi with purchase.

- Cafe Tiger. Free wifi with purchase.

Stay safe

Crime

Crime is not a major problem in Oslo, but as in any metropolitan area, some caution is warranted. Violent crime is rare, but not unheard of. Avoid getting in to quarrels in taxi queues after closing hours of bars. Do not walk alone in dimly lit streets at night, especially if you are a woman. The police advise that the area along the Akerselva river from Grønland to Cuba is best avoided after dark. It is notorious for multiple instances of rape, muggings and drug dealing. The area in front of Oslo Central Station is also plagued by the drug trade.

Theft and pick pocketing is more of a nuisance. Police blame itinerant criminal bands from abroad for a some of it. Normal precautionary rules apply:

- Watch out for pick pockets in crowds.

- Do not leave your belongings unattended.

- Avoid leaving your mobile phone and wallet on café tables.

The area between the main street, Karl Johan's Street, Akershus Fortress and the harbour area is notorious for its sex trade. A few years ago aggressive solicitation by foreign prostitutes was a major nuisance in the area at night, but the problem has abated after the purchase of sexual services was banned.

Scams

Common scams occur in Oslo, and there are recent (2008) reports on the "guessing game" being perpetrated on the street - don't get involved in street-betting as it is certain to be a scam.

Winter conditions

In winter watch out for icy patches, and when wandering in the forest beware when crossing snowy clearings - they may well be frozen lakes with snow over them, which may look safe but could crack. Finally, beware of snow falling from the roofs in Oslo - there are usually red/yellow signs upwards, and some areas are occasionally cordoned off.

Politics

Politics is a none-too-sensitive subject in Norway, and is often discussed in public. Like in other western countries, political views differs, and most people seem to tolerate this. There are both far-right and far-left opinions in the everyday crowd, but true extremism is rare. Pay normal attention when expressing your political opinions; violent and autocratic ideologies are generally not tolerated in Norway. In addition, being a highly diverse city, racism and sexism is generally not tolerated among most people in Oslo. In environmental policies, Norwegians have a fairly european-minded attitude when climate issues are discussed, but fewer people (including activists) will be vegetarian.

Water

The tap water of Oslo is among the cleanest in the world. Do drink tap water instead of bottled water, which does nothing but drain your pocket of much needed kroner.

Traffic

Cars are required to yield to pedestrians at marked and signed crossings, and will be heavily fined if they don't. However, this rule does not apply to trams (streetcars); the trams have the right of way. Oslo has a web of tram lines downtown and as the trams are fast and heavy, you will certainly lose if you attempt to challenge one.

Cope

It is easy to get around in Oslo, and almost every Norwegian speaks English. Most people will respond in English to any question you may have. Selected Norwegians also speak some German, due to the proximity of the language, and that you may study it in school.

The Youth information (Unginfo) runs an independent information desk in Møllergata [138] aimed at budget travelers. This service is free and they also provide free internet access. On their web page there is an online guide to Oslo for budget travelers.

Embassies

- Canada, Wergelandsveien 7 (4th floor), +47 22 99 53 00 (oslo@international.gc.ca, fax: +47 22 99 53 01).

- Greece, Nobels gate 45, 0268 Oslo, +47 22 44 27 28, 22 43 12 21 (gremb@online.no, fax: +47 22 56 00 72).

- Macedonia, Erling Skjalgssonsgate 19 B, 0267 Oslo, +47 22 551 540 (fax: +47 22 550 622), [139].

- Philippines, Nedre Vollgate 4 0158 Oslo, Norway, +47 22 40 09 00, [140].

- United States, [141].

Get out

- Oslomarka is the large forest surrounding the city. This is an important recreational area for the citizens of Oslo, and quite unique for a capital. Take the T-bane to Holmenkollen (change to bus 1B at Majorstuen), Frognerseteren (change to bus 1B at Majorstuen), Sognsvann (line 3) or Skullerud (line 3 - in the opposite direction of Sognsvann), bus 41 from Røa T-bane to Sørkedalen or bus 51 from Nydalen T-bane to Maridalen. You can also visit the tourist association at Storgata (at Kirkeristen tram stop) for good maps and inexpensive accommodation alternatives in Oslomarka.

- Kongsberg is a beautiful city well-known for its silver mining history. The city is located about an hour and a half west of Oslo by train or bus. The Kongsberg International Jazz Festival is hosted here every year in early July.

- Fredrikstad is a very enjoyable city not far from Oslo, with an old, walled old town and lots of streetlife in summer. Trains run approx every hour (taking 1h10min), and express buses run about 10 times per day (1h30min).

- Tønsberg is an attractive seaside town with an attractive city centre. It's the oldest town in Norway, and even if this isn't instantly visible, there's lots of history to digest. Excellent highways will take you to the city in an hour from Oslo. The train uses around two.

- Drøbak is another of the picturesque, small seaside towns dotted all over southern Norway, and the closest to Oslo. Nice place to get away from the big city bustle, even if Drøbak also can become crowded in summer. Buses run at least hourly.

- Son is also one of the coastal pearls. Get local train to Moss, alight at Sonsveien station, and get the bus that meet most (but not all) trains.

- Drammen was earlier a totally unremarkable industrial city dubbed "the biggest road crossing of Norway". Even if traffic is still rife, the city has gone through a face lift, and their centre are as cosy as any. TimEkspressen bus line 1 (every hour, day and night) and 10, and 3 trains an hour gets you there and away.