SEKAI Explorer Guide Paris (2011)

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Contributor

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Table of Content:

• Districts

1th

2nd

3rd

4th

5th

6th

7th

8th

9th

10th

11th

12th

13th

14th

15th

16th

17th

18th

19th

20th

La Défense

• Understand

History

Climate

• Get in

By plane

Charles de Gaulle International Airport (Roissy)

Terminal 1

Terminal 2E

Get in or out

• Contact

Orly International Airport

Beauvais (Aéroport de Beauvais Tillé)

Airline Shuttles

By train

By bus

By car

• Get around

By car

On foot

By Métro

By boat

On skates

By bicycle

By bus

By taxi

With children

Talk

• See

Landmarks

Museums and galleries

• Do

Events

Photography

Movies

With children

Meet and greet locals

• Learn

Work

• Buy

Flea Markets

Musical Instruments

Artwork

• Eat

Self catering

Some specialities

Prices

Kosher dining

Vegetarian dining

Tourists and locals

• Drink

• Sleep

• Stay safe

Crime

Respect

• Contact

• Cope

Embassies

• Get out

Districts

The city of Paris itself is officially divided into 20 districts called arrondissements, numbered from 1 to 20 in a clockwise spiral from the centre of the city (which is known as Kilometre Zero and is located at the front of Notre Dame). Arrondissements are named according to their number. You might, for example, stay in the "5th", which would be written as 5e in French. The 12th and 16th arrondissements include large suburban parks, the Bois de Vincennes, and the Bois de Boulogne respectively.

The very best map you can get for Paris is called "Paris Pratique par Arrondissement" which you can buy for about €3-5 at any news stand. It makes navigating the city easy: so much that one can imagine that the introduction of such map-books might be part of what made the arrondissement concept so popular in the first place. Alternately you can print your own using our maps. The various tourist information centres and hotels in Paris also provide various city and metro maps for free and which have all the necessary details for a tourist.

Each arrondissement has its own unique character and selection of attractions for the traveller:

- 1st (1er). The geographical centre of Paris and a great starting point for travellers. The Musée du Louvre, the Jardin des Tuileries, Place Vendôme, Les Halles, Palais Royal, Comédie-Française, and Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel are all to be found here.

- 2nd (2e). The central business district of the city - the Bourse (the Paris Stock Exchange), Opéra-Comique, Théâtre des Variétés, Passage des Panoramas, Théâtre des Bouffes Parisiens and the former Bibliothèque Nationale are located here.

- 3rd (3e). Archives Nationales, Musée Carnavalet, Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers, Hôtel de Soubise, the Former Temple fortress, and the northern, quieter part of the Marais can be found here.

- 4th (4e). Notre-Dame de Paris, the Hôtel de Ville (Paris city hall), Hôtel de Sully, Rue des Rosiers and the Jewish Quartier, Beaubourg, Le Marais, Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville, Mémorial de la Shoah, Centre Georges Pompidou, l'atelier Brancusi, Place des Vosges, Bibliothèque de l'Arsenal, Saint-Jacques Tower and Parisian island Île Saint-Louis can be found here.

- 5th (5e). Jardin des Plantes, Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle, Musée de Cluny, The Panthéon, Quartier Latin, Universités, La Sorbonne, Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, Église Saint-Séverin, La Grande Mosquée, Le Musée de l'AP-HP can be located here.

- 6th (6e). Jardin du Luxembourg as well as its Sénat, Place Saint-Michel, Église Saint-Sulpice and Saint-Germain des Prés can be found here.

- 7th (7e). Tour Eiffel and its Parc du Champ de Mars, Les Invalides, Musée d'Orsay, Assemblée Nationale and its subset administrations, Ecole Militaire, and Parisian mega-store Le Bon Marché can be found here.

- 8th (8e). Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe, Place de la Concorde, le Palais de l'Elysée, Église de la Madeleine,Jacquemart-Andre Museum, Gare Saint-Lazare, Grand Palais and Petit Palais can be found here.

- 9th (9e). Opéra Garnier, Galeries Lafayette, Musée Grévin, and Folies Bergère can be found here.

- 10th (10e). Canal Saint-Martin, Gare du Nord, Gare de l'Est, Porte Saint-Denis, Porte Saint-Martin, Passage Brady, Passage du Prado, and Église Saint-Vincent-de-Paul can be found here.

- 11th (11e). The bars and restaurants of Rue Oberkampf, Bastille, Nation, New Jewish Quarter, Cirque d'Hiver, and Église Saint-Ambroise can be found here.

- 12th (12e). Opéra Bastille, Bercy Park and Village, Promenade Plantée, Quartier d'Aligre, Gare de Lyon, Cimetière de Picpus, Viaduc des arts the Bois de Vincennes, and the Zoo de Vincennes can be found here.

- 13th (13e). Quartier la Petite Asie, Place d'Italie, La Butte aux Cailles, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (BNF), Gare d'Austerlitz, Manufacture des Gobelins, Butte-aux-Cailles and Pitié-Salpêtrière Hospital can be found here.

- 14th (14e). Cimetière du Montparnasse, Gare Montparnasse, La Santé Prison, Denfert-Rochereau, Parc Montsouris, Stade Charléty, Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris, and Paris Catacombs can be found here.

- 15th (15e). Tour Montparnasse, Porte de Versailles, Front de Seine, La Ruche and quartiers Saint-Lambert, Necker, Grenelle and Javel can be found here.

- 16th (16e). Palais de Chaillot, Musée de l'Homme, the Bois de Boulogne, Cimetière de Passy, Parc des Princes, Musée Marmottan-Monet, Trocadéro, and Avenue Foch can be found here.

- 17th (17e). Palais des Congrès, Place de Clichy, Parc Monceau, Marché Poncelet, and Square des Batignolles can be found here.

- 18th (18e). Montmartre, Pigalle, Barbès, Basilica of the Sacré Cœur, Église Saint-Jean-de-Montmartre, and Goutte d'Or can be found here.

- 19th (19e). Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie, Parc de la Villette, Bassin de la Villette, Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Cité de la Musique, Canal de l'Ourcq, and Canal Saint-Denis can be found here.

- 20th (20e). Cimetière de Père Lachaise, Parc de Belleville, and quartiers Belleville and Ménilmontant can be found here.

- La Défense. Although it is not officially part of the city, this skyscraper district on the western edge of town is on many visitors' must-see lists for its modern architecture and public art.

Beyond central Paris, the outlying suburbs are called Les Banlieues. Schematically, those on the west of Paris (Neuilly-sur-Seine, Boulogne-Billancourt, Saint Cloud, Levallois) are wealthy residential communities. Those to the northeast are poorer communities, often populated by immigrants.

Understand

History

Paris started life as the Celto-Roman settlement of Lutetia on the Île de la Cité, the island in the Seine currently occupied by the Cathédral de Nôtre Dame. It takes its present name from name of the dominant Gallo-Celtic tribe in the region, the Parisii. At least that's what the Romans called them, when they showed up in 52 BCE and established their city Lutetia on the left bank of the Seine, in what is now called the "Latin Quarter" in the 5th arrondissement.

The Romans held out here for as long as anywhere else in the Western Empire, but by 508 CE they were gone, replaced by Clovis of the Franks, who is considered by the French to have been their first king. Clovis' descendants, aka the Carolingians, held onto the expanded Lutetian state for nearly 500 years through Viking raids and other calamities, which finally resulted in a forced move by most of the population back to the islands which had been the centre of the original Celtic village. The Capetian Duke of Paris was voted to succeed the last of the Carolingians as King of France, ensuring the city a premier position in the medieval world. Over the next several centuries Paris expanded onto the right bank into what was and is still called le Marais (The Marsh). Quite a few buildings from this time can be seen in the 4th arrondissement.

The medieval period also witnessed the founding of the Sorbonne. As the "University of Paris", it became one of the most important centres for learning in Europe -- if not the whole world, for several hundred years. Most of the institutions that still constitute the University are found in the 5th, and 13th arrondissements.

In the late 18th century, there was a period of political and social upheaval in France and Europe, during which the French governmental structure, previously a monarchy with feudal privileges for the aristocracy and Catholic clergy, underwent radical change to forms based on Enlightenment principles of nationalism, citizenship, and inalienable rights. Notable events during and following the revolution were the storming of the Bastille 4th arrondissements, and the rise and fall of Napoleonic France. Out of the violent turmoil that was the French Revolution, sparked by the still known Passion des Français, emerged the enlightened modern day France.

The Paris of today was built long after the Capetian and later the Bourbon Kings of France made their mark on Paris with the Louvre and the Palais Royal, both in the 1st. In the 19th century, Baron von Hausmann set about reconstructing the city, by adding the long straight avenues and replacing many of the then existing medieval houses, with grander and more uniform buildings.

New wonders arrived during La Belle Époque, as the Parisian golden age of the late 19th century is known. Gustave Eiffel's famous tower, the first metro lines, most of the parks, and the streetlights (which are partly believed to have given the city its epithet "the city of light") all come from this period. Another source of the epithet comes from Ville Lumière, a reference not only to the revolutionary electrical lighting system implemented in the streets of Paris, but also to the prominence and aura of Enlightenment the city gained in that era.

The twentieth century was hard on Paris, but thankfully not as hard as it could have been. Hitler's order to burn the city was thankfully ignored by the German General von Choltitz who was quite possibly convinced by a Swedish diplomat that it would be better to surrender and be remembered as the saviour of Paris, than to be remembered as its destroyer. Following the war, the city recovered quickly at first, but slowed in the 1970s and 1980s when Paris began to experience some of the problems faced by big cities everywhere: pollution, housing shortages, and occasionally failed experiments in urban renewal.

During this time however, Paris enjoyed considerable growth as a multi-cultural city, with new immigrants from all corners of the world, especially La Francophonie, including most of northern and western Africa as well as Vietnam and Laos. These immigrants brought their foods and music, both of which are of prime interest for many travellers.

Immigration and multi-culturalism continues in the 21st century with a marked increase in the arrival of people from Latin America, especially Mexico, Colombia, and Brazil. In the late 1990s, it was hard to find good Mexican food in Paris, whereas today there are dozens of possibilities from lowly taquerias in the outer arrondissements to nice sit-down restaurants on the boulevards. Meanwhile Latin music from salsa to samba is all the rage (well, alongside Paris lounge electronica).

The 21st century has also seen vast improvements in the general liveability of Paris, with the Mayor's office concentrating on reducing pollution and improving facilities for soft forms of transportation including a huge network of cycle paths, larger pedestrian districts and newer faster metro lines. Visitors who normally arrive car-less are the beneficiaries of these policies as much as the Parisians themselves are.

Climate

Climate

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

Daily highs (°C)

6

7

10

13

17

21

23

23

20

15

9

7

Nightly lows (°C)

1

1

3

5

9

12

14

13

11

7

3

2

Being located in Western Europe, Paris has a maritime climate with cool winters and warm summers. The moderating effect of the Atlantic Ocean helps to temper temperature extremes in much of western Europe, including France. Even in January, the coldest month, temperatures nearly always exceed the freezing point with an average high of 6°C (43°F). Snow is not common in Paris, although it will fall a few times a year. Most of Paris' precipitation comes in the form of light rain year-round.

Summers in Paris are warm and pleasant, with an average high of 23°C (75°F) during the mid-summer months. Spring and fall are normally cool and wet.

Get in

By plane

Paris is served by three international airports - for more information, including arrival/departure times, check the official sites.

Charles de Gaulle International Airport (Roissy)

[1] ICAO: LFPG, IATA: CDG. The major hub airport to the north-east of the city. It's notoriously confusing, so allow plenty of time for transfers. There are three terminals: Terminal 1, Terminal 2 (which is huge and subdivided into 2A through 2G), and Terminal 3 (formerly T9). The newest exception is terminal 2G which is a separate building and is only reachable via navette/bus in 10-15 min (bus leaves every 20 min) so allow extra time. The free CDGVAL shuttle train connects the terminals together. Everything at this airport is very expensive, especially food. If you're traveling from Terminal 1 it's also worth noting that the food court is located at the CDGVAL floor, before the security check. There are hardly any benches around. There are no public shower facilities in the airport. Air France lounges have such facilities, and the departure lounges have showers. Lounge access is included for Air France business and first class travelers. The members of the Air France and cooperating frequent flyer programs may gain access with sufficient status. There is a possibility that some lounges may grant access to travelers on their flights for a fee. If you consider paying for access to the lounge, inquire when checking in for your departure. If you must have a shower and your frequent flyer status (and charm) are insufficient to gain entry to a lounge, the airport hotels generally have rooms available (in Sep 2009, the Sheraton in Terminal 2 at the train station charged €155).

When you arrive at CDG, you should note what terminal you arrived at (2A, 2D, etc.), because when you come back to the airport to depart at the end of your trip, the RER subway train makes two stops at CDG to cover the three terminals, but there are few indications of which airlines are at which terminals. Have a close look at your air ticket to figure out which terminal you are departing from. Air France and associates leave from Terminal 2. The RER B has the airlines serviced by each terminal on a not so obvious chart posted by the door of the train.

Say that again, please?

The RER B station named "Aeroport Charles de Gaulle 1" is a misnomer - it actually serves Terminal 3, not Terminal 1. However, the CDGVAL train links Terminals 1, 2, and 3.

Terminal 1

There are quite a few points with power outlets specifically for charging passengers' laptops/mobiles, both down by the food court and by some of the gates.

Terminal 2E

VAT Tax refund: First, have your tax refund papers stamped at the tax refund counter in the main terminal area, before you check in with your airline. Showing goods is signposted as mandatory, usually only required for high priced, marquee items.

To locate the tax refund counter in the terminal, look for the signs or ask any airline employee for directions. Don't be confused by a single line splitting between currency exchange and tax refund office: choose tax refund if you prefer Euros--while currency exchange refunds only in USD or your national currency, both buy at a robbery rate (and with no rollback to the refund window after you realized the rate).

The line can take a long time, expect several minutes per customer. At either office, you can also receive refund for your spouse if you have his/her passport and refund forms.

Duty-free shopping: There are no shops before security check zone. When you shop in post-security check zone, it's not genuinely taxfree, as you can receive a tax refund for those purchases as well.

Contrary to what one may expect, there is no L'Occitane; cheese is limited to soft sorts (and there are no ripe varietes); wines starts at €11 and some popular sorts like Chinin can't be found; selection of sausages is extremely limited.

There are no mid-range clothes or shoes stores, only luxury brands.

Get in or out

For getting to or from Paris, the RER commuter train, line B, has stations in T3 (from where you can take the free CDGVAL shuttle train to T1) and T2. Trains to Paris leave every 7-8 minutes and stop at Gare du Nord, Châtelet-Les Halles, Saint-Michel Notre-Dame, Luxembourg, Port-Royal, Denfert-Rochereau and Cité Universitaire. Adult tickets cost €9.10, and for children between 4-10 the fare is €5.95 each. The train takes around 35 minutes to Gare du Nord and 45 minutes to Denfert-Rochereau, making this the fastest way to get to the city. Tickets can be purchased either through green (sometimes blue) automated ticket vending machines ("Billetterie Ile-de-France") or through the ticket office serviced by transport authority personnel. Engineering works near CDG Terminal-1 and Aulnay-Sois-Bois stations are conducted between 2300hrs and 0100hrs everyday, so you must take a coach (bus) from Terminal 3 to the station where you can take the RER B train to Paris. The fare is included in the train ticket you purchase.

The automated ticket machines accept Euro coins of €2, €1 and 50, 20, 10, 5 cent denominations and give change...Euro notes not accepted. There is one separate automated machine which changes €20, €10 and €5 notes to €2 and €1 coins. However, due to the high demand, the machine frequently runs out of coins. There are currency exchange centres, but they explicitly state notes will not be changed for coins. Alternatively, except for some non-European credit cards, many smart-chip credit cards can be used on the ticket machines . Because of these limitations, purchasing tickets from the ticket office may seem to be an attractive method. Although there are many counters, the queues can be very long. On Sunday at "lesser" stations, don't count on its ticket office being open. Although it is a nuisance, the fastest way to get some tickets is to take a lot of Euro coins with you. It is also possible to explain the situation to a European buying a ticket with a working credit card, and ask them to buy one for you in exchange for a paper note.

Trains for Paris usually leave from platforms 11 and 12. Look for signs saying "RER B" or "All trains go to Paris". When using the ticket from and to the airport (as with tickets for the RER commuter trains in general) you have to use it to enter and to exit the train. Always keep the ticket handy as the SNCF officials sometimes check for tickets, and if you are without one you may be fined €40. This means that after you put the ticket into the entry gate and are cleared to pass, you must retrieve the ticket from the machine and keep it with you until you leave the train system including any connections.

Alternatively, the Roissybus service connects all terminals directly to Opéra Garnier in central Paris, but it's subject to traffic jams and rush hour, so it averages 60-90 min even on a good day. You could take bus number 350[2]and 351[3] to the city and it costs around €5.20 making it the cheapest option to go to Paris. The tickets can be purchased inside the bus from the driver and they need to be punched with a device lying next to the driver's seat.

Air France buses [4] offer two stops in Paris (Porte Maillot, Montparnasse) from CDG with a 50-min ride. To reach a specific address into the city, this shared shuttle service [5] costs €19 per person [6], private transfers cost €79 [7]. Mercedes E transfer costs €129 and are available from CDG and ORY. There is also a TGV station in T2 for high-speed connections, mostly towards Lille and Brussels, but there are also some trains that head south to eg. Rennes and Nantes, bypassing Paris.

Contact

One helpful thing about having official and numbered districts in Paris is that you can easily tell which arrondissement an address is in by its postal code, and can easily come up with the postal code for a Paris address if you know its arrondissement. The rule is just pre-pend 750 or 7500 to the front of the arrondissement number, with 75001 being the postal code for the 1st and 75011 being the postal code for the 11th, and so on. The 16th has two postal codes, 75016 and 75116.

Phone cards are available from most "Tabacs" but make sure you know where you can use them when you buy them, as some places still sell the cartes cabines which are hard to use as cabines are rare.

The city of Paris provides with free Internet access via 400 Wi-Fi access points throughout the city, including many public parks. Look for the network called 'Orange' on your laptop or PDA device. [63]

Orly International Airport

[8] (ICAO: LFPO, IATA: ORY. This airport is southwest of the city, and served by a southern branch of the RER-B line that heads in the direction of Saint-Rémy-les-Chevreuse (not Robinson). This older international airport is used mainly by Air France for national lines, and other international carriers in Europe. Orly is roughly 40 min from Paris via the OrlyBus, which departs from Métro Denfert-Rochereau (ligne 6); the price is €6.40. There are buses every 10 minutes from the Orly Sud (Platform 4) and it stops at Orly Ouest on its way to the city. Tickets can be bought at a counter near the baggage claim area or directly at the counter in Platform 4. The tickets need to be validated once on the bus. Another option is bus 285 that takes you to the Métro Villejuif - Louis Aragon(Line 7) in 15 min, but it stops on the way and is designed for commuters and not for travellers. Bus 285 costs €1.80 and runs every 10 min, stopping at airport level -1.

The Orlyval light rail connects the two terminals to each other and to the RER B line at Antony. It runs every 4-7 min and cost €9.85 for transfer to Paris, including connections to central area metro stations. The RER B from Antony runs through Paris to Aéroport Charles de Gaulle.

Beauvais (Aéroport de Beauvais Tillé)

[9] ICAO: LFOB, IATA: BVA. This airport, a distance north of the city, is a smaller regional airport that is used by some low-cost carriers such as Ryanair (list flights [10]) and WizzAir. The airport operates a shuttle service connecting with the Métro at Porte Maillot station. Buses run even during the wee hours of the morning (6AM). Buses leave 20 min after each flight arrives, and a few hours before each flight departs. Exact times can be found on the Beauvais Airport website. The journey will take about an hour in good traffic conditions, and costs €15 each way.

Airline Shuttles

In addition to public transport, Air France operates shuttles between Charles de Gaulle and Paris (€15-16.5), Orly and Paris (€11.5) and between the two airports (€19). Note that if you have connecting Air France flights that land and depart from different airports, you would still generally need to fetch your luggage after landing, catch either the Air France shuttle or a taxi (readily available at all airports) to the other airport and check-in again. This altogether could take up to 2 hours particularly if traffic is at its worst. It is also common to lose time during disembarking, as passengers often need to get off at the tarmac and get on buses which will bring them to the terminal building. Be sure to have sufficient time between flights to catch your connection. Note that check-in counters usually close 30 min before the flight departs, longer if flights are international carriers.

If you want to take RER B and catch an early flight, make sure you bring enough change, because you can only buy tickets at the coins-only machines before the counter opens.

If you arrive to CDG Airport at night you'll need a Noctilien bus to get to the city center. The bus stops in all three terminals (in terminal 2F it will be the second level in departure section - it is very difficult to find, but it really exists). The bus leaves every 30 min after 12:30AM (see timetable [11]). The buses you'll need are N121 and N120; the price is €7.

By train

Paris is well connected to the rest of Europe by train. There is no central station serving Paris, the six different stations are not connected to each other. You will probably want to know in advance at which station your train is arriving, so as to better choose a hotel and plan for transport within the city.

- Gare du Nord, (10th), Métro: Gare du Nord - TGV trains to and from Belgium, the Netherlands, and Cologne, Germany (Thalys), and the United Kingdom (Eurostar) and regular trains from Northern Europe.

- Gare d'Austerlitz, (13th), Métro: Gare d'Austerlitz - regular trains to and from the center and southwest of France (Orléans, Limoges, Toulouse the long way), Spain and Portugal and arrival of majority of the night trains.

- Gare de l'Est, (10th), Métro: Gare de l'Est - ICE/TGV to and from Luxembourg, Saarbrücken, Kaiserslautern, Frankfurt, and Stuttgart, Munich in Germany and Basel and Zurich in Switzerland.

- Gare de Lyon, (12th), Métro: Gare de Lyon - regular and TGV trains to and from Southern and eastern France: French Alps, Marseille, Lyon, Dijon, Switzerland: Geneva, Lausanne, Bern and Italy.

- Gare St Lazare, (8th) Métro: St-Lazare - trains to and from Basse-Normandie, Haute-Normandie.

- Gare Montparnasse, (15th), Métro: Montparnasse-Bienvenüe - TGV and regular trains to and from the west and south-west of France (Brest, Rennes, Nantes, Bordeaux, Toulouse the fastest way and Spain).

The SNCF (French national railway authority) [12] operates practically all trains within France excluding the Eurostar to St Pancras, London [13] and the Thalys to Brussels and onward to the Netherlands [14] and Germany [15]. There are also a few local lines of high touristic interest which are privately owned. All SNCF, Eurostar and Thalys tickets can be bought in railway stations, city offices and travel agencies (no surcharge). The SNCF website allows to book and buy tickets up to two months in advance. There are significant discounts if you book weeks ahead. Reduced ticket prices are different for each day and each train and can be used only on the train the reservation is for. Surprisingly, round trip tickets (aller-retour) with a stay over Saturday night can be cheaper than a single one-way ticket (aller simple). A very limited selection of last minute trips are published on the SNCF website every Tuesday, with discounts of more than 50%.

There are a number of different kinds of high speed and normal trains:

- TER. Regional trains : TER are slower, stopping at almost all stations.

- Intercités. normal day (no special name) operate to and from most cities in France and are usually your best bet for destinations all over France. These are the trains you'll find yourself on if you have a Eurail pass, and don't want to pay extra for reservations.

- Téoz. As Corail Intercité but you need a reservation.

- Lunéa. night trains (no special name) operate to and from most cities in France and are usually your best bet for destinations all over France. These are the trains you'll find yourself on if you have a Eurail pass, and don't want to pay extra for reservations.

- TGV, [16]. The world-famous French high-speed trains (Trains à Grande Vitesse) run very frequently to the Southeast Nice(5-6h), Marseille (3h) and Avignon (2.5 h), the East Geneva (3h) or Lausanne, Switzerland and Dijon (1h15) , the Southwest Bordeaux (3h), the West Rennes (3h) and the North Lille (less than 1h). Eurostar to London (2h15) and Thalys to Brussels (1h20) use almost identical trains.

- Thalys, [17]. A high-speed train service running daily to/from the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany. It can be a bit expensive compared to normal trains, but cheap enough if you buy in advance.

- Intercity. Intercity trains leave for all parts of Europe, including overnight trains to San Sebastian in Spain, Porto and Lisbon in Portugal.

- Eurostar, [18]. The Eurostar service connects Paris with London directly and Brussels indirectly, as well many other destinations indirectly through the various west European rail services. Travel time between Paris and London St Pancras International currently averages at 2h15min, following the opening of a new rail link in late 2007.

- City Night Line (CNL), [19]. Overnight trains by the German operator DB which have sleeping berths in addition to the regular coach cars. These are not particularly speedy; they are designed to arrive at their destinations at a reasonable morning hour. While the trains themselves are covered by the rail passes, the sleeping accomodation supplements are not, and need to be booked separately, but what you get is a moving bed which transports you to another city, saving on hotel bills in the process. Paris has 3 departures nightly, all from the Gare de l'Est - to Munich (with continuing service to to Innsbruck), Berlin and Hamburg.

By bus

Since the Métro is primarily structured around a hub-and-spoke model, there are some journeys for which it can be quite inefficient, and in these cases, it is worth seeing if a direct bus route exists, despite the complexity of the bus network. A bus ride is also interesting if you want to see more of the city. The Parisian bus system is quite tourist-friendly. It uses the same single-ride tickets and Carte Orange as the Métro, and electronic displays inside each bus tell riders its current position and what stops remain, eliminating a lot of confusion.

These same payment devices are also valid in the Noctilien, the night bus. Night buses run regularly through the central hub at Chatelet to outlying areas of greater Paris. There is also a circle line connecting the main train stations. It pays to know one's Noctilien route ahead of time in case one misses the last Métro home. Women travellers should probably avoid taking the Noctilien on their own to destinations outside Paris.

Another option for travelers who want to see the sights of Paris without a stop on every street corner is the Paris L'Opentour Bus, an open-topped double decker bus that supplies headsets with the most up to date information on the attractions in Paris. Your ticket is good for four routes ranging in time from 1-2 h. Get off when you want, stay as long as you need, get back on the bus and head for another site. You can purchase tickets at the bus stop. A one-day pass is €25 for adults and €15 for children. A two-day pass is €32 for adults or €15 for children.

By car

It is generally a bad idea to rent a car to visit Paris. Traffic is very dense during the day, and parking tends to be difficult. This is especially true in areas surrounding points of touristic interest, since many of these are in areas designed long before automobiles existed. A majority of Parisian households do not own cars.

Driving may be an option for going to some sights in the suburbs such as Vaux-le-Vicomte castle or the castle and city at Fontainebleau, or for starting to other places in France. You may prefer to rent from a location not situated in Paris proper.

Traffic rules in Paris are basically the same as elsewhere in France, with the exception of having to yield to incoming traffic on roundabouts. However, driving in dense traffic in Paris and suburbs during commute times, can be especially strenuous. Be prepared for traffic jams, cars changing lanes at short notice, and so on. Another issue is pedestrians, who tend to fearlessly jaywalk more in Paris than in other French cities. Be prepared for pedestrians crossing the street on red, and expect similar adventurous behavior from cyclists. Remember that even if a pedestrian or cyclist crossed on red, if you hit him, you (in fact, your insurance) will have to bear civil responsibility for the damages, and possibly prosecution for failing to control your vehicle.

Paris has several beltway systems. There is a series of boulevards named after Napoleonic-era generals (Boulevard Masséna), and collectively referred to as boulevard des maréchaux. These are normal wide avenues, with traffic lights. Somewhat outside of this boulevard is the boulevard périphérique, a freeway-style beltway. The périphérique intérieur is the inner lanes (going clockwise), the périphérique extérieur the outer lanes (going counter-clockwise). Note that despite the looks, the périphérique is not an autoroute: the speed limit is 80 and, very unusually, incoming traffic has the right of way, at least theoretically (presumably because, otherwise, nobody would be able to enter during rush hour).

Directions

If you find yourself lost in the streets, a good idea is to find the nearest Hotel and ask the concierge for directions. Most speak English well. A simple "Bonjour Monsieur, parlez-vous anglais?" should suffice.

Get around

The best and cheapest way to get around Paris is on foot, and secondly, using the Metro which is around one euro seventy cents for a one way trip of any length.

By car

It is generally a bad idea to rent a car to visit Paris. Traffic is very dense during the day, and parking tends to be difficult. This is especially true in areas surrounding points of touristic interest, since many of these are in areas designed long before automobiles existed. A majority of Parisian households do not own cars.

Driving may be an option for going to some sights in the suburbs such as Vaux-le-Vicomte castle or the castle and city at Fontainebleau, or for starting to other places in France. You may prefer to rent from a location not situated in Paris proper.

Traffic rules in Paris are basically the same as elsewhere in France, with the exception of having to yield to incoming traffic on roundabouts. However, driving in dense traffic in Paris and suburbs during commute times, can be especially strenuous. Be prepared for traffic jams, cars changing lanes at short notice, and so on. Another issue is pedestrians, who tend to fearlessly jaywalk more in Paris than in other French cities. Be prepared for pedestrians crossing the street on red, and expect similar adventurous behavior from cyclists. Remember that even if a pedestrian or cyclist crossed on red, if you hit him, you (in fact, your insurance) will have to bear civil responsibility for the damages, and possibly prosecution for failing to control your vehicle.

Paris has several beltway systems. There is a series of boulevards named after Napoleonic-era generals (Boulevard Masséna), and collectively referred to as boulevard des maréchaux. These are normal wide avenues, with traffic lights. Somewhat outside of this boulevard is the boulevard périphérique, a freeway-style beltway. The périphérique intérieur is the inner lanes (going clockwise), the périphérique extérieur the outer lanes (going counter-clockwise). Note that despite the looks, the périphérique is not an autoroute: the speed limit is 80 and, very unusually, incoming traffic has the right of way, at least theoretically (presumably because, otherwise, nobody would be able to enter during rush hour).

Directions

If you find yourself lost in the streets, a good idea is to find the nearest Hotel and ask the concierge for directions. Most speak English well. A simple "Bonjour Monsieur, parlez-vous anglais?" should suffice.

On foot

Walking in Paris is one of the great pleasures of visiting the City of Light. It is possible to cross the entire city in only a few hours, but only if you can somehow keep yourself from stopping at numerous cafés and shops. In fact within a few years walking combined with biking and the Metro will be the only way to get around the very centre of Paris: The Mayor's office has announced plans to declare the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th arrondissements almost totally car-free by 2012.

Paris walking 101

To get a great orientation of the city on foot while seeing many of Paris' major sights, you can do a West to East walk from the Arc de Triomphe to Ile de la Cite (Notre Dame). This walk takes about 1-2 hours without any stops. Start at the top of the Champs Elysees (at the Arc de Triomphe) and begin walking down the Champs Elysees towards Place ('square') de la Concorde.

- On the way towards the obelisk on the square, you'll see the major stores and restaurants of Paris' most famous avenue.

- Once you've passed the main shopping area, you'll see the Petit Palais and the Grand Palais to your right.

- At Place de la Concorde, you'll be able to see many of Paris' major monuments around you. In front of you is the Tuileries, behind you is the Champs-Elysees and Arc de Triomphe, behind you to your right is the Tour Eiffel and Musee d'Orsay, and finally, to your left is the Madeleine.

- Continue straight ahead and enter the Tuileries Gardens passing by fountains, flowers, and lovers in the park.

- As you continue straight ahead, and out of the garden, you'll see the pyramid entrance to the Louvre directly in front of you.

- With the pyramid directly in front of you, and the Tuileries directly behind you, turn to your right and walk towards the Seine.

- Now you can walk along the Seine (eastwards) until you reach Pont Neuf. Cross Pont Neuf and walk through the Latin Quarter, cross the river again to reach Notre Dame cathedral on Ile de la Cité.

The smartest travellers take advantage of the walk-ability of this city, and stay above ground as much as possible. A metro ride of less than 2 stops is probably best avoided since walking will take about the same amount of time and you'll be able to see more of the city.

You may have heard of the hazard of walking into dog droppings in Paris. The problem has receded over the last decades, partially due to fines as high as €180 and an extensive street cleaning operations. However you will still occasionally encounter one of these little packages. Eventually with a little practice you'll be able to avoid them without effort while looking every way but down, though you may find yourself dancing around fallen leaves in the autumn (some are just the right size and colour).

You will also notice that most of the older Parisian streets (especially the ones in the Quartier Latin) are particularly narrow with little or no room to even fit a car, so the sidewalks on these roads are extremely tiny. Although this means you would opt to walk on the road, be wary as Parisian drivers, taxi drivers in particular, take no heed in the narrowness of the road, and will drive down it just as fast as if they were driving along a major road.

It's always fun to experience the city by foot, and there are numerous walking tours around Paris, whether self guided (with the help of a guidebook or online guide) or with a touring guide (booked through your travel agency or hotel). The city is best explored by foot, and some of the most marvelous memories you will have of Paris is walking through secret found places.

By Métro

Paris has an excellent underground train system, known as the Métro (short for Chemin de fer métropolitain, Metropolitan Railway). Although you will probably take the RER subway train from the airport to Paris, don't be confused: RER isn't the name for the "French subway train", and only a few large stations serve the RER network of trains. Look for the Métro stations, marked with a large "M" sign.

There are 16 Métro lines (lignes) (1-14, 3bis, and 7bis) on which trains travel all day at intervals of a few minutes between 5AM and 12:30AM (Saturday night/Sunday morning: 1:30AM), stopping at all stations on the line. Times for trains can be seen on an electronic scrollboard above the platform. Line 14, which is fully automated, is called the Méteor. Scheduled times for first and last trains are posted in each station on the centre sign. Generally, except for early and late hours, travellers should not worry about specific Metro train times; just get to your station and take the next train, which will likely be in 5-10 min.

Visitors traveling to or from the Airport/train stations with heavy luggage need to keep in mind that changing metro lines might be difficult at times, especially at major metro intersections. Moving from one platform to another generally involves walking up and down multiple flights of stairs and elevators are few and far between. It might be a good idea to check out the Bus routes and timings and see if one can find a convenient bus connection.

Many of the trains do not carry destination binders. All lines on the Paris metro run end-to-end with some trains terminating at certain stations. This practice is common only in peak hours and if you are on a metro train that terminates before the last station, the driver will make an announcement (in French). Listen carefully for signs that the train is terminating before the end of the line.

The lines are named according to the names of their terminal stations ( the end of the line). If you ask the locals about directions, they will answer something like : take line number n toward "end station 1", change at "station", take the line nn toward "end station 2" etc. The lines are also colour-coded.

In addition, there are five commuter train lines: RER A, B, C, D, and E. RER trains run at intervals of about 6-7 min, and stop at every station within Paris. Although a regular subway ticket can be used within Paris (Zone 1), it is necessary to pass the ticket through the turnstile when passing between the subway and the RER lines, as the two systems are separate networks. This ticket is necessary to enter and exit the RER networks, as the RER trains travel on to the Parisian suburbs, outside the zone where a regular subway ticket can be used. Beware that travelling outside the city centre without a valid RER ticket will get you fined, and the packs of inspectors who roam the system show no mercy to tourists pleading ignorance. In particular, Charles de Gaulle airport is not within the city, and you'll need to purchase a more expensive RER ticket to get there (see Get in).

In addition to RER, there are many suburban train lines (Transilien) departing from the main train stations. One line of interest is the one from Gare Montparnasse to Versailles-Chantiers, a quick way to go to Versailles castle (covered by a ticket for at least Zones 1-4). The alternative is to use RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche (this station is the closest to the castle). Do not use RER C8 to Versailles Chantiers; this will do a very long loop in the southern suburbs before reaching Versailles.

For travel outside of the Paris zone, the train arrival times are shown on a monitor hanging from the ceiling inside the RER station above the platform. Information about the stops to be made by the next incoming train is presented on a separate board also hanging from the ceiling. It is important to check this board before boarding the train, as not all trains make stops at all stations on a given line. Four letter codes (KRIN, DIPA, TORE, etc.) are used for the RER and Transilien trains. On RER A, B and C the first letter indicates the destination of the train, the second the branch or service type, and the last two are to make the name easier to memorize; on RER D and E, the first letter is destination, the second letter is service type, the third letter is branch, and the fourth letter is direction; on Transilien lines, it's usually one name for every service type. You can look up what these codes mean on information panels in the station, but the easiest and fastest way is often to check the information screens along the platforms.

RATP [21] is responsible for public transport including metro, buses, and some of the high speed inter-urban trains (RER). The rest of the RER is operated by SNCF. However, both companies take the same tickets, so the difference is of little interest for most people except in case of strikes (RATP may strike without SNCF doing so or the other way round). Current fares can be found at their website. Basically, as you move farther from Paris (into higher zones), tickets get more expensive.

For the subway, a single ticket (ticket t+) costs €1.70; however, it is generally not advisable to buy tickets by the unit. Instead, purchase a carnet of ten tickets, which can be bought for €12 at any station, which will bring the price per ticket down to €1.20. Tickets named tarif réduit may be purchased for children under the age of 10 but only in a carnet of 10 for €6. Both tickets are valid for unlimited metro and RER or bus and tram transfers during two hours for RER and metro, and 1 hour 30 between the first and the last punch for bus and tram. RER + Métro and Bus + Tram are two separate systems, but they use the same tickets. This means you have to use a new ticket if you transfer from bus to metro or from metro to bus. Tickets do not expire.

A one-day ticket, a weekly pass, and a monthly pass are also available. The price varies according to the zones for which the ticket can be used. The cheapest 1-day ticket called Mobilis [22], is valid for zones 1-2, with a price of €6.10. Once bought, it is necessary to write in the spaces provided on the ticket the date the ticket is being used in European notation of day/month/year (valable le), the last name (nom), and the first name (prénompp). Unfortunately, this ticket is not valid for use for travel to/from Charles de Gaulle airport. Unless you plan to make many trips in one day, the carnet of ten tickets (for €1.20 per trip) will still be a much better cost than a one-day ticket. However, consider the price for all members of your group/family, including children, which days you are travelling on, and in which zones you will be travelling.

For travellers under the age of 26, there is a special ticket (Jeunes 26) that you can purchase for use on the weekends or holidays. The price varies depending on the number of zones you wish to cover (Zones 1-3 is €3.30 and Zones 1-5 is €6.60; there are other zone combinations available too) and the ticket is good for one day of unlimited usage of the metro, RER, bus, and trams.

If you are staying a bit longer, the weekly and monthly passes are called Navigo Découverte (1 week pass, €17.20 for Paris and inner suburbs) and the monthly Navigo Mensuel (one-month pass). Note that an Découverte (DAY-koo-VERT) starts on Mondays and a Mensuel on the first of the month. The Navigo pass is non-transferrable and requires the user to provide information on the pass after the sale. The pass is sold for €5. You must write your last name (nom) and your first name (prénom) and stick your photo on the nominative card. After, you have to refill your pass with a recharge hébdomadaire (one-week refill), or a recharge mensuelle (one-month refill). You have to choose at least two of the contiguous "zones": Paris is the first zone, La Défense is in the third zone, and Versailles in the fourth. Everything related to a "Navigo" pass is in purple (like the target for the pass in the turnstiles).

Although not as good a deal for adults in most cases as the Mobilis or Carte Orange, there are also one-to-five-day tourist passes, called Paris Visite, available, which are a bargain for kids of ages 4-11, starting at €4.40 per day for travel within zones 1-3.

Keep your ticket or pass with you at all times as you may be checked. You will be cited and forced to pay on the spot if you do not have a ticket. The most likely spots for being checked are just behind the turnstiles at big Métro stations or during Métro line changes (correspondances). RATP agents may be present in the Métro stations even on Sunday nights.

Métro stations have both ticket windows and automatic vending machines. The majority of automatic vending machines do not take notes, only coins or European credit cards with a pin-encoded chip on the front. Therefore, to use either euro bills or a non-European credit card with a magnetic stripe, it is necessary to make the purchase from the ticket window. Be advised that some ticket vending machines do not give change, so use exact change or go to the ticket window. If you look at the vending machines closely, you may find one in the group that takes euro bills and will give change; these machines can be found at major or touristy stations such as Tuileries, Gare de Lyon or La Défense-Grande Arche.

Some larger stations have secondary entrances, where there is no ticket booth. These are labelled voyageurs avec billets (passengers with tickets).

Avoid suburban charges

If you have any tickets or Navigo passes for zone 1-2 (inside the Paris area, the lower rate) and want go to La Défense from Châtelet, you have to take the Métro (Line 1). You can take the RER A (and save a few minutes), but you have to pay an additional fare, because even though you arrive at the same station, the RER exit is supposed to be outside of Paris! On the other hand, Métro fares are the same, even in the suburbs. So be careful as there are usually a lot of ticket examiners present when you get off the RER A.

Each station displays a detailed map of the surrounding area with a street list and the location of buildings (monuments, schools, places of worship, etc,) as well as exits for that particular metro. Maps are located on the platform if the station has several exits or near the exit if there is only one exit.

Except for Métro 1 and 14 and some modern trains on Métro 2, the doors may not open automatically. In such a case, there are handles or buttons located both inside and outside the train that you have to push or unlatch in order to open the door.

Strikes are a regular occurrence on the Paris public transit system. Generally during a strike, there will be reduced or no service on certain lines but parts of the network will continue to operate; however, in some cases the entire network may shut down completely. Visit the RATP and SNCF websites for information on which routes are affected by a strike. Generally, Metro line 14 will be running during a strike because it is operated without human drivers - if you are caught by a strike, it is best to use it whenever possible.

By boat

There are several excellent boat services which make use of the Seine. As well as providing easy, cheap transport to much of central Paris, excellent photo opportunities abound. You can buy a day or 3 day ticket and hop on and off the boat as needed. The boats take a circular route from the Eiffel Tower, down past the Louvre, Notre Dame, botanical gardens then back up the other bank past Musee D'orsay. Batobus [23] offers a regular shuttle service between the main touristic sights (closed in January); other companies such as the famous Bateaux Mouches [24] offer sightseeing cruises.

There is also a river shuttle service called Voguéo [25] on the eastern part of the Seine, between Gare d'Austerlitz and Maison Alfort (in the suburbs). It's not meant for tourists, but as a convenient service for Parisians. As a result, the view isn't the most breathtaking in Paris (part of it is industrial), but even though the boats are pretty small they're bound to be much less crowded than those for tourists. More importantly, it's free if you have a Carte Orange (weekly or monthly public transport pass). Otherwise a ticket bought onboard costs €3 which can be considered expensive. The last stop is in zone 3 so normally you should not be able to go that far with a Carte Orange that covers zones 1&2, but since June 2009 it's free as they are still experimenting the system. There are boats every 15 min and the whole trip lasts about 30 min. If you want to do a round-trip and don't have a Carte Orange, you will have to buy a second ticket.

On skates

Paris is the mecca of city skating. This is due to the large, smooth surfaces offered by both the pavements and the roads. Skating on the pavement is legal all around Central Paris (zone 1) and its suburbs (zones 2+). See our Do section below for more information.

By bicycle

Renting a bike is a very good alternative over driving or using public transport. Riding a bike anywhere in the city is far safer for the moderately experienced cyclists than almost any town or city in the United States. The French are very cognizant of cyclists, almost to a point of reverence. A few years ago Paris wasn't the easiest place to get around by bike. That however has changed dramatically in recent years, starting perhaps with a lengthy bus and traffic jam. The city government has taken a number of steps in strong support of improving the safety and efficiency of the urban cyclist as well, in establishing some separated bike lanes, but even more important a policy of allowing cyclists to share the ample bus lanes on most major boulevards. Paris also has many riversides which are perfect for cycling. The Paris bike network now counts over 150 km of either unique or shared lanes for the cyclist. In addition, the narrower, medieval side streets of the central arrondissements make for rather scenic and leisurely cycling, especially during off-hours of the day when traffic is lighter. Do remember to bring a good map, since there is no grid plan to speak of and almost all of the smaller streets are one-way.

Note that, while the streets of Paris are generally fairly easy on novice cyclists, there are some streets in the city that should be avoided by those who do not have sufficient urban cycling experience. 'Rue de Rivoli', 'Place de la Bastille', and 'Place de la Nation' are particularly hairy, especially during weekdays and the Saturday evening rush, and should not be navigated by anyone not confident in their ability to cycle in heavy traffic. 'Avenue des Champs-Elysées', 'Place de l'Étoile', and 'Voie Georges Pompidou' (the lower-level express lanes along the banks of the Seine) should be avoided at all times.

You can find an excellent map of the bike network called Plan des Itinéraires cyclables (download here: [26]) at the information center in the Hôtel de Ville.

There are two different bike rental programs in Paris:

- Vélib, +33 1 30 79 79 30, [27]. In July 2007 the municipality of Paris introduced the Vélib program (vélo Liberté or Freedom Bikes) by which it is possible to rent a bike for a very modest price. Numerous stations are to be found around the city (at major landmarks and metro stations, basically every 300m). With a credit card with a "puce" smart-chip (that means that American Visa and Mastercard cards do not work, however American Express cards should work even though they don't have a chip), you can subscribe for 1 day (€1) or 7 days (€5) after paying a security on the bicycle (to pay for it if it isn't returned) & then get a bike; the first 30 min are free, following 30 min costs €1, following 30 min cost €2, etc. to avoid long rentals... so the game is to get to another station in 25 min and get another bicycle. This rental system has been designed to allow you to "pick & drop" a bike, not rent the same one all day long. Try it ! If your card works in the machines it's a great way to get around! The bicycles are wonderful cruiser bikes, with a front basket to put a purse or bag. If the saddle is turned around, it most probably means the bike is out of order (it's a convention among Velib users, so do the same if you notice your Velib has problems). €1 per day.

In addition to operating a number of bike rental buses, the RATP has some permanent locations, including:

- Roue Libre, Les Halles, 1 passage Mondétour (facing 120 rue Rambuteau, Métro: Les Halles), +33 1 04 41 53 49. Bikes can be rented for one weekend (€25), M-F (€20), a working day (€9), or one day on the weekend (€14). Roue Libre also has a location at the Bastille which is open during the summer months

By bus

Since the Métro is primarily structured around a hub-and-spoke model, there are some journeys for which it can be quite inefficient, and in these cases, it is worth seeing if a direct bus route exists, despite the complexity of the bus network. A bus ride is also interesting if you want to see more of the city. The Parisian bus system is quite tourist-friendly. It uses the same single-ride tickets and Carte Orange as the Métro, and electronic displays inside each bus tell riders its current position and what stops remain, eliminating a lot of confusion.

These same payment devices are also valid in the Noctilien, the night bus. Night buses run regularly through the central hub at Chatelet to outlying areas of greater Paris. There is also a circle line connecting the main train stations. It pays to know one's Noctilien route ahead of time in case one misses the last Métro home. Women travellers should probably avoid taking the Noctilien on their own to destinations outside Paris.

Another option for travelers who want to see the sights of Paris without a stop on every street corner is the Paris L'Opentour Bus, an open-topped double decker bus that supplies headsets with the most up to date information on the attractions in Paris. Your ticket is good for four routes ranging in time from 1-2 h. Get off when you want, stay as long as you need, get back on the bus and head for another site. You can purchase tickets at the bus stop. A one-day pass is €25 for adults and €15 for children. A two-day pass is €32 for adults or €15 for children.

By taxi

Taxis are comparatively cheap especially at night when there are no traffic jams to be expected. There are not as many as one would expect, and sometimes finding a taxi can be challenging. In the daytime, it is not always a good idea to take a taxi, as walking or taking the metro (See: Métro) will often be faster. If you know you will need one to get to the airport, or to a meeting, it is wise to book ahead by phone (see below).

To stop a taxi...

... watch the sign on the roof: if the white sign is lit, the cab is on duty and available, if the white sign is off and a colored light is lit under it (blue, orange), it's on duty and busy, if the white sign is off and no coloured light is on, the taxi is off duty.

Remember if a taxi is near a 'taxi station', they're not supposed to pick you up except at the station where there may be people waiting for a taxi. Taxi stations are usually near train stations, big hotels, hospitals, large crossings.

There are a number of services by which you can call for taxis or make a reservation in advance. The two largest are Taxis G7 and Taxis Bleus:

- Taxis aéroport de Paris, +33 (0)6 58 79 38 87, [28].

- Taxis G7, +33 (0)1 47 39 47 39, [29].

- Taxis Bleus, +33 (0)891 70 10 10, [30].

- Taxis de France, [31].

- Taxi-Paris, +33 014 1276699, [32].

- Shuttle Taxi, [33].

As in many other cities a taxi can be difficult to stop; you may have to try several times. When you do get a taxi to stop, the driver will usually roll down his window to ask you where you want to go. If the driver can't (or doesn't want to) go where you want, he might tell you that he's near the end of his work day & can't possibly get you where you want before he has to go off-duty.

There is a €5.50 minimum on all taxi rides, mandated by city law, but the meter does not show this amount, which can result in being asked to pay more than the metered amount on short rides. Frequently the taxi driver will not want to drive you all the way to the doorstep, but will prefer to let you out a block or so away if there are one or more one-way streets to contend with. Try to look at this as a cost-savings rather than an inconvenience. You should pay while still seated in the cab as in New York and not through the front window London style.

The driver will not let you sit in the front seat (unless there are 3 or 4 of you, which is a rare case usually expedited by more money). Taxi-drivers come in all types, some nice, some rude, some wanting to chat, some not. Smoking in taxis is generally not allowed, however it might be that the taxi driver himself wants a cigarette in which case the rule might become flexible.

Many drivers prefer that you avoid using your cellphone during the ride; if you do have to, make an apologizing gesture & sound, and do make a short call.

- A tip is included in the fare price; If you're especially satisfied with the service, you can give something (basically 10%), but you don't have to.

- There is an extra charge for baggage handling.

If for any reason you wish to file a complaint about a Paris taxi, take note of the taxi's number on the sticker on the left hand backseat window.

Also if you take a taxi to the Charles de Gaulle airport be prepared to pay €70 or more because there is often heavy traffic. If there isn't traffic it will be less expensive, but that is rare. The RER B or a bus is cheaper.

Beware of illegal taxis (see the 'Stay Safe' section).

Livery or Black Car or Limos- Known as car services or livery cabs, these cars may only be called by phone, are flat rate rather than metered (ask for the fare before getting in), and are not allowed to cruise the street or airports for fares. There are two types of licence: the "Grande Remise" that allows the car & driver to pick-up & drop-off passengers anywhere in France, and the "carte verte" that allows pick-up & drop-off in the department or region where the company is based. The Grande Remise cars have a GR on their front plate. They provide more service than a normal cab.

With children

- Cite des enfants in the 19th, a museum for kids within the Cite des Sciences et de l'Industrie, is interactive, fun, and educational. There are two separate sections for the 3-5 set and the 5-12 set. The tots section has simple exhibits designed to be pushed, prodded, and poked. The section for older kids is more sophisticated with scientific experiments and tv studios.

- Jardin du Luxembourg in the 6th. It would be counted as a travesty not to take your under 10 year old to the Jardin du Luxembourg, long a favorite with Parisien children. With its world famous merry-go-round, a pond for sail boats, a puppet theater, pony rides, chess players, children's playground, it has something for every kid (with comfortable chairs for weary parents thrown in!). The marionettes du luxembourg, the puppet theater, stages classic French puppet shows in French but should be easy to understand. There are numerous places for a snack.

- Parc Zoologique in the 12th. Like all things in France, this zoo is different because of a 236 foot artificial mountain bang in its center. Take elevators to the top and enjoy the view or watch the mountain goats do their stuff on the sides. Lions, tigers, and everything designed to delight kids can be found in the zoo if the mountaind doesn't do it for your kids.

- The Jardin d'Acclimatation in the 16th has a number of rides, including pint-sized roller coasters suitable for children as young as three years, as well as a mini-zoo and the estimable Musée en Herbe.

Talk

First and foremost, French (le français) is of course the country's official language. Any native French person will speak French and it helps if you can speak a bit of it. In the parts of the city that tourists frequent the most (Tour Eiffel, Le Louvre, Champs-Elysées), the shopkeepers, information booth attendants, and other workers are likely to answer you in English, even if your French is advanced. These workers tend to deal with thousands of foreign-speaking tourists, and responding in English is often faster than repeating themselves in French. This is not the case for the rest of the city.

Reading up

Before you leave you may want to read a book like French or Foe by Polly Platt or Almost French by Sarah Turnbull — interesting, well written records from English speaking persons who live in France.

For most Parisians, English is something they had to study in school, and thus seems a bit of a chore. People helping you out in English are making an extra effort, sometimes a considerable one. Younger people are much more likely to be fluent in English than older people. If it's your first time in France you will have some problems understanding what people are saying (even with prior education in French). Unlike most language education tapes, real French people often speak fast, use slang, and swallow some letters.

When attempting to speak French, do not be offended if people ask you to repeat, or seem not to understand you, as they are not acting out of snobbery. Keep your sense of humour, and if necessary, write down phrases or place names. And remember to speak slowly and clearly. Unless you have an advanced level and can at least sort of understand French movies, you should also assume that it will be difficult for people to understand what you are saying (imagine someone speaking English to you in an indiscernible accent, it's all the same).

When in need of directions what you should do is this: find a younger person, or a person reading some book or magazine in English, who is obviously not in a hurry; say "hello" or "bonjour"; start by asking if the person speaks English, "Parlez-vous anglais?" (Par-LAY voo zOn-Glay?) even if he/she's reading something in English, speak slowly and clearly; write down place names if necessary. Smile a lot. Also, carry a map (preferably Paris par Arrondissement); given the complexity of Paris streets it is difficult to explain how to find any particular address in any language, no matter how well you speak it. If anything, the person may have an idea as to the place you are looking for, but may not know exactly where it may be, so the map always helps.

On the other hand you will probably get the cold shoulder if you stop a random person in the métro (like, say, some middle-aged hurried person who has a train to take), fail to greet them and say "where is place X or street Y".

Now if you do speak French, remember two magic phrases : "Excusez-moi de vous déranger" [es-KOO-zay mwa duh voo DAY-ranj-AY] ("Sorry to bother you") and "Pourriez-vous m'aider?" ("Could you help me?") — use them liberally - especially in shops; they will work wonders.

See

One of the best value and most convenient ways to see the sights of Paris is with the Paris Museum Pass (previously known as Carte Musées et Monuments) [34], a pre-paid entry card that allows entry into over 70 museums and monuments around Paris and comes in 2-day (€35), 4-day (€50) and 6-day (€65) denominations (prices as of Jan 2011). Note these are consecutive days. The card allows you to jump otherwise sometimes lengthy queues and is available from participating museums, tourist offices, Fnac branches and all the main Métro and RER train stations. You will still need to pay to enter most special exhibitions. For best results and to avoid having to wait in the first long queue to purchase the Museum Pass, stop to purchase your pass at one of the smaller museums or sites covered, or at one of the non-museum purchase points. [35] The day you purchase the pass does not have to count as one of the days; you specify on the pass the first date of use, and the days covered are consecutive after that. [36] Do not write your start date until you are certain you will use the pass that day. Be careful to use the European date style as indicated on the card (day/month/year).

Note that most museums and galleries are closed on either Monday or Tuesday - check ahead to avoid disappointment! - and most ticket counters close 30-45 min before final closing. Louvre museum is closed on Tuesdays while Orsay museum is closed on Mondays, good to know when setting visit plans.

Also consider the ParisPass [37] also a pre paid entry card + queue jumping to 60 attractions including The Louvre, The Arc de Triomphe, as well as a river cruise and allows free metro & public transport travel. Also note a cheaper alternative with this new combined pass available since September 2008 is the Paris ComboPass® [38], which comes in Lite/Premium versions.

All national museums are open free of charge on the first Sunday of the month; note, however, that this may mean long lines and crowded exhibits. Keep away from Paris during Easter week. It's really crowded. People have to queue up at the Eiffel tower for several hours. Entry to the permanent exhibitions at city-run museums is free at all times (admission is charged for temporary exhibitions).

These listings are just some highlights of things that you really should see if you can during your visit to Paris. The complete listings are found on each individual district page (follow the link in parenthesis).

Good listings of almost everything to do in Paris can be found in 'Pariscope' or 'Officiel des spectacles', weekly magazines listing all concerts, art exhibitions, films, stage plays and museums. Available from all kiosks.

Landmarks

- Arc de Triomphe (8th)— The Arc de Triomphe still exudes a certain grandeur despite the crowds of tourists and the tacky souvenir shops.

- Arènes de Lutece (5th)— Built during the 1st and 2nd centuries, this amphitheater could seat up to 17,000 people, hosting gladiator fights as well as less bloody entertainment.

- Assemblée Nationale (7th)— Seats the French Parliament, and was designed by Giardini and Gabriel in 1728.

- Catacombs (14th)— Used to store the exhumed bones from the overflowing Paris cemetery.

- Château de Versailles (Versailles)— France's most exquisite chateau, on the outskirts of the city. Was once the home to Louis XIV.

- Château de Vincennes (Vincennes) is a massive 14th and 17th century French royal castle. Located just outside the eastern boundary of Paris, take Metro line 1 or RER A.

- The Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) (7th)— No other monument better symbolizes Paris.

- Grand Arche de la Défense (La Défense)— A modern office-building variant of the Arc de Triomphe. Has a viewing platform.

- Notre Dame Cathedral (4th)— Impressive Gothic cathedral that was the inspiration for Victor Hugo's novel The Hunchback of Notre Dame.

- Opera Garnier (9th)— Masterpiece of theatre architecture of the 19th century built by Charles Garnier and inaugurated in 1875 housing the Paris Opera since it was founded by Louis XIV.

- Pantheon (5th)— Underneath, the final resting place for the great heroes of the French Republic including Voltaire, Victor Hugo, and Marie Curie; above, a marvellous view of the city.

- Père-Lachaise Cemetery (20th)— See the grave of Jim Morrison amongst many others.

- Sacré Coeur (18th)— A church perched on top of the highest point in Paris. Behind the church is the artists' area, in front are spectacular views of the whole city.

- Sainte Chapelle (1st)— Far more beautiful than the famous, but gloomy, Notre Dame.

Museums and galleries

All national museums et monuments are free for all every first sunday of the month.

- Le Musée de l'AP-HP, (5th)— Paris's medical history.

- Le Musee des Arts Decoratifs, (1st)— Showcasing eight centuries of French savoir faire.

- Carnavalet (3rd)— Museum of Paris history; exhibitions are permanent and free.

- Centre Georges Pompidou , (4th)— The great museum of modern art, the building an attraction in itself.

- Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie - La Villette, (19th)— Science museum for adults and children.

- Cluny, (5th)— Paris's medieval museum, housed in a part Roman, part medieval building.

- Delacroix— National museum housed in the home of painter Eugene Delacroix.

- Mémorial de la Shoah, (4th)— Paris's Holocaust Memorial Museum, in the heart of the Marais on rue Geoffroy l'Asnier. Free Entry, weekly guided tours. Second Sunday of the month there is a free tour in English.

- Jacquemart-Andre Museum , (8th)— Private collection of French, Italian, Dutch masterpieces in a typical XIXth century mansion.

- Picasso Museum, (3rd)— Contains the master's own collections. Visitor should note this museum will be closed until 2012 due to renovations of the building.

- Les Invalides, (7th)— Museum of arms and armor from the Middle Ages to today. Also contains the tombs of Napoleon Bonaparte and other French military figures.

- The Louvre, (1st)— One of the finest museums in the world of art, art-history, and culture. Home of the Mona Lisa.

- Musée de l'Orangerie, (1st)— [Jardin des Tuileries] Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings by Paul Cézanne, Henri Matisse, Amedeo Modigliani, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Henri Rousseau, Chaim Soutine, Alfred Sisley.

- Musée d'Orsay, (7th)— Home to the great artists of the 19th century (1848-1914). Incredible collection of Impressionist art housed in an old railway station. Every room you go into seems to have another incredibly popular painting. Degas'ballerinas, Monet's waterlillies, etc.

- Musée Marmottan-Monet [39] (16th)[rue Louis Boilly]— Collection of works by Claude Monet, Berthe Morisot, Edgar Degas, Édouard Manet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir. "Impression Soleil Levant" by Monet is on display in this museum.

- Musée National de la Marine, (16th)— From times of exploration to modern day vessels. Interesting but primarily in French.

- Rodin Museum, (7th)— His personal collection and archives, in a charming hotel and sprawling garden.

- Musée en Herbe (1st and 16th)— An art museum just for kids with hands-on exhibitions and workshops.

Do

Events

It seems like there's almost always something happening in Paris, with the possible exceptions of the school holidays in August and February, when about half of Parisians are to be found not in Paris, but in the Alps or the South of France respectively. The busiest season is probably the fall, from a week or so after la rentrée scolaire or "back to school" to around Noël (Christmas) theatres, cinemas and concert halls book their fullest schedule of the year.

Even so, there are a couple of annual events in the winter, starting with a furniture and interior decorating trade fair called Maison & Object [40] in January.

In February le nouvel an chinois (Chinese New Year) is celebrated in Paris as it is in every city with a significant Chinese population. There are parades in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements and especially in Chinatown in the 13th south of Place d'Italie. Also in February is the Six Nations Rugby Tournament [41] which brings together France, England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales and Italy.

The first of two Fashion weeks occurs in March: Spring Fashion Week, giving designers a platform to present women’s prêt-à-porter (ready to wear) collections for the following winter.

The French Tennis Open [42] in which the world’s top players battle it out on a clay court runs during two weeks starting on the last Sunday in May. By the time its done in June, a whole range of festivities start up. Rendez-vous au Jardin is an open house for many Parisian gardens, giving you a chance to meet real Parisian gardeners and see their creations. The Fête de la Musique [43] celebrates the summer solstice (21st June) with this city-wide free musical knees-up. Finally on the 26th of June is the Gay Pride [44] parade, featuring probably the most sincere participation by the mayor's office of any such parade on the globe.

The French national holiday Bastille Day on the 14th of July celebrates the storming of the infamous Bastille during the French Revolution. Paris hosts several spectacular events that day of which the best known is the Bastille Parade which is held on the Champs-Élysées at 10AM and broadcast to pretty much the rest of Europe by television. The entire street will be crowded with spectators so arrive early. The Bastille Day Fireworks is an exceptional treat for travelers lucky enough to be in town on Bastille Day. The Office du Tourisme et des Congress de Paris recommends gathering in or around the champs du Mars, the gardens of the Eiffel Tower.

Also in July, Cinema en Plein Air [45] is the annual outdoor cinema event that takes place at the Parc de la Villette, in the 9th on Europe’s largest inflatable screen. For most of the months of July and August, parts of both banks of the Seine are converted from expressway into an artificial beach for Paris Plage [46]. Also in July the cycling race le Tour de France has a route that varies annually, however it always finishes on the last Sunday of July under the Arc de Triomphe.

On the last full weekend in August, a world-class music festival Rock en Seine [47] draws international rock and pop stars to barges on the Seine near moored off of the 8th.

During mid-September DJs and (usually young) fans from across Europe converge on Paris for five or six days of dancing etc. culminating in the Techno parade - a parade whose route traces roughly from Pl. de Bastille to the Sorbonne, and around the same time the festival Jazz à la Villette [48] brings some of the biggest names in contemporary jazz from around the world.

The Nuit Blanche [49] transforms most of central Paris into a moonlit theme-park for an artsy all-nighter on the first Saturday of October, and Fashion Week [50] returns shortly thereafter showing off Women’s Prêt-à-Porter collections for the following summer; as we've noted winter collections are presented in March.

The third Thursday in November marks the release of Le Beaujolais Nouveau [51] and the beginning of the Christmas season. This evening, the Christmas lights are lit in a ceremony on the Champs-Élysées, often in the presence of hundreds (if not thousands) of people and many dignitaries, including the president of France.

Unfortunately, there are no comprehensive event guides covering concerts, clubs, movies or special events. For theater, movies and exhibitions pick up the 'Pariscope' and 'L'officiel du Spectacle', available at newstands for €0.40. For (especially smaller, alternative) concerts pick up LYLO, a small, free booklet available in some bars and at FNAC. There is not any userfriendly online version of these guides.

- Cafe Philo in English, Cafe de Flore, 172, Blvd St-Germain, 75006, [52]. Cafe Philo in English meets on the first Wednesday of each month upstairs at the famous Cafe de Flore. Everyone is invited. You don't have to be knowledgeable about philosophy. Meetings begin with a two round voting process to determine a topic. The topic is discussed for two hours. Free.

Photography

Paris is considered by many as the birthplace of photography, and while one may debate the correctness of this claim, there is no debate that Paris is today a photographer's dream. The French capital offers a spectacular array of photographic opportunities to the beginner and the pro alike. It has photogenic monuments (e.g., Arc de Triomphe, Eiffel Tower, the obelisk at Concorde, and countless others); architecture (the Louvre, Notre Dame and the Museum of the Arab World, to name just a few) and urban street scenes (e.g., in the Marais, Montmartre and Belleville). When you tire of taking your own photos, visit one of the many institutions dedicated to photography (e.g., European Museum of Photography, the Jeu de Paume Museum or the Henri Cartier Bresson Foundation). At these and other institutions, you can learn the about the rich history of Paris as the place of important developments in photography (e.g., the Daguerrotype) and as the home of many of the trade's great artists (e.g., Robert Doisneau, André Kertész, Eugene Atget and Henri Cartier Bresson).

- Better Paris Photos, 32 Avenue de Suffren, Paris 75116, 33 (0)6 74 04 21 84 (register@betterparisphotos.com), [53]. By appointment, tours last from 4 hours. Better Paris Photos offers instructional tours and workshops that combine hands-on learning of essential photographic techniques with guiding to, and commentary about, the most photogenic spots of Paris. Led by English-speaking photographers and instructors, these tours are open to all skill levels and interest. From €195/half day; €290/full day.

Movies

The Cinémas of Paris are (or at least should be) the envy of the movie-going world. Of course, like anywhere else you can see big budget first-run films from France and elsewhere. That though, is just the start. During any given week there are at least half-a-dozen film festivals going on, at which you can see the entire works of a given actor or director. Meanwhile there are some older cult films like say, What's new Pussycat or Casino Royal which you can enjoy pretty much any day you wish.

Many non-French movies are subtitled (called "version originale" "VO" or "VOstfr" as opposed to "VF" for version francaise).

There are any number of ways to find out what's playing, but the most commonly used guide is Pariscope, which you can find at newstands for €0.40. Meanwhile there are innumerable online guides which have information on "every" cinema in Paris.

With children

- Cite des enfants in the 19th, a museum for kids within the Cite des Sciences et de l'Industrie, is interactive, fun, and educational. There are two separate sections for the 3-5 set and the 5-12 set. The tots section has simple exhibits designed to be pushed, prodded, and poked. The section for older kids is more sophisticated with scientific experiments and tv studios.

- Jardin du Luxembourg in the 6th. It would be counted as a travesty not to take your under 10 year old to the Jardin du Luxembourg, long a favorite with Parisien children. With its world famous merry-go-round, a pond for sail boats, a puppet theater, pony rides, chess players, children's playground, it has something for every kid (with comfortable chairs for weary parents thrown in!). The marionettes du luxembourg, the puppet theater, stages classic French puppet shows in French but should be easy to understand. There are numerous places for a snack.

- Parc Zoologique in the 12th. Like all things in France, this zoo is different because of a 236 foot artificial mountain bang in its center. Take elevators to the top and enjoy the view or watch the mountain goats do their stuff on the sides. Lions, tigers, and everything designed to delight kids can be found in the zoo if the mountaind doesn't do it for your kids.

- The Jardin d'Acclimatation in the 16th has a number of rides, including pint-sized roller coasters suitable for children as young as three years, as well as a mini-zoo and the estimable Musée en Herbe.

Meet and greet locals

For those who want to meet actual Parisians in addition to exploring major landmarks, in 2010 a group of locals started a new service, "See Paris with a Parisian". You join 90-minute walking tours. The guides show you city landmarks (and the stories and anecdotes that go with them), but they also engage their visitors on life in Paris. You chat with a Parisian, you "decode" the city, and you learn from an insider about local events and festivals, about where to shop, good places to eat or drink, secret places locals keep to themselves etc.

- Discover Walks, 1 rue Thérèse ☎ +33 970 449 724, [54]. Several tours to choose from everyday. Free service - guests choose their tip/donation.

Learn

It should go without saying that Paris is a good place to learn French.

- Alliance Française. One of the world's largest schools of French language, the Paris Alliance Française has a wide variety of courses for a visitor to choose from.

- Ecole France Langue, [55]. France Langue have a variety of different courses, starting as short as one week up to long-term tuition. Classes are taught entirely in French, with students (who come from all parts of the world) discouraged from speaking in their native languages at all during lessons. The emphasis is more on speaking and listening rather than on writing and grammar. The school is spread over a number of locations around Place Victor Hugo in the 16e.

- Université Paris IV. Offers 'scholastic' as well as 'university' courses for foreigners in French language and culture, which start at various times of year.

- American Graduate School in Paris, 101, boulevard Raspail, (0)1 47 20 00 94 (info@ags.edu), [56]. Graduate school in Paris specializing in international relations and business programs. Classes are taught in English with optional french classes.

- Franglish, (0)7 60 47 30 20 (info@franglish.eu), [57]. French/English Language Exchange event in Paris, 3 times per week in some of the best venues across Paris. Practice your French while having a good time meeting locals.

Paris is the seat of other places to learn about a variety of topics.

- The American Library in Paris, (5 minutes walking distance from the Eiffel Tower), [58]. A great place to visit in Paris is the American Library, this is a non-profit institution entirely dependent on donations in order to keep its doors open. Visitors can purchase a day pass or other short term memberships. The Library has WiFi and if you have your laptop then you can access the internet for no charge other than the day pass to use the library. It has excellent books, recent American magazines and the occasional celebrity patron.

Work

Work in Paris, especially for non-EU citizens entails a very long and arduous process. Unless you possess one of a number of in-demand skills, it will almost certainly be necessary to obtain a job offer from a French employer before arriving. Your employer, for their part, will have to have the offer approved by the relevant governmental authorities, as well. If you opt for unreported work, such as babysitting, you need not fret about going through the process to obtain a Carte de séjour, i.e., a formal vistor's identity card. However, if you do choose a change in location, it is advisable to obtain a Carte de séjour prior to finding any job whatsoever, as the process can be longer than expected. Note however that a Carte de séjour is often necessary to open a bank account and the like, and by extension for accomplishing any number of other tasks involved in modern life, so unless you're very comfortable transacting everything in cash you should probably bite the bullet and keep things on the up-and-up.

Before entering the country, one must obtain a visa from one's local French Consulate French Embassy [59]. The guidelines for particular visas can be found on their website, and differ depending on length of stay in France, and what exactly you will be doing while there. When applying for the visa make sure you have ALL your documents prior to your appointment at the French Consulate, otherwise the process, and inevitably, obtaining your visa will be delayed. Always make 2 copies of all the forms, and to have plenty of passport photos ready as the copies will be utilized in each step of the process. If you are going to work in France and are bringing a child along, also bring your child's information for obtaining a visa.

After obtaining a visa (usually a single-entry), you must go to the Prefecture of Police on Île-Saint-Louis [60] to start the process of obtaining a Carte de séjour, as your single-entry visa will expire within 3 months of arrival, and the process in the country is just as long and arduous as the one at the Consulate. Expect to go there multiple times, and always have copies and copies of those copies. The French governmental system is notorious for losing papers, so always have the copies handy when you go for your follow up. When you finally do receive your Carte de séjour, you are free to scope out jobs.

Job listings, as anywhere, can be found in local magazines and newspapers. Another great place to look for jobs is online, whether using a Job Search Engine such as Monster [61] or Wiki search pages such as Craigslist [62]. Remember, the city of Paris has a huge network of immigrants coming and going, and it is always great to tap into that network. The city holds a great abundance of work ready to be found, even if it feels nerve wracking at first.

Buy

Paris is one of the great fashion centres of the Western world, up there with New York, London, and Milan, making it a shopper's delight. While the Paris fashion scene is constantly evolving, the major shopping centres tend to be the same. High end couture can be found in the 8th arrondisement. In summer, there is nothing better than browsing the boutiques along Canal St-Martin, or strolling along the impressive arcades of the historic Palais-Royal, with beautifully wrapped purchases swinging on each arm.

A good note about Le Marais is that as it is a mostly Jewish neighborhood, most of the shops in Le Marais are open on Sundays. The stores in this area are intimate, boutique, "Parisian" style clothing stores. You will no doubt find something along each street, and it is always well worth the look.

Other great areas to shop around in are around the area Sèvres Babylone (Métro Line 10 and Line 12). It is in this area you will find the Le Bon Marché 7th, particularly rue de Cherche Midi 6th. The area boasts some of the major fashion houses (Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Versace, etc) and also has smaller private boutiques with handmade clothing.

In the Quartier Saint-Germain-des-Prés, you can find a handful of vintage clothing shops, carrying anything from couture early 20th century dresses, to 70s Chanel sunglasses. Walking along Boulevard Saint-Germain, you will find major brands. However, if in search of eclectic finds, opt to walk the northern side of the Boulevard, especially along rue Saint André des Arts, where you can always find a nice café to stop in. The area south of Saint-Germain is just as nice, and comes with a price tag to match.

In the artsy quarters of 1 and 4, there are many bargains to be had, once again, if you are prepared to look. Souvenirs are easily found and can be fairly inexpensive as long as you don't buy from the tourist sites. For cheap books of French connection, try the University/Latin quarter as they sell books in all languages starting from half a euro each.

Flea Markets

Paris has 3 main flea-markets, located on the outskirts of the central city. The most famous of these is the Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen (Porte de Clignancourt) (Clignancourt Flea Market) , Métro: Porte de Clignancourt, in the 18th, a haven for lovers of antiques, second-hand goods and retro fashion. The best days to go are Saturday and Sunday. Note that there are particular times of the week when only antique collectors are allowed into the stalls, and there are also times of the day when the stall owners take their Parisian Siesta, and enjoy a leisurely cappuccino for an hour or so. The best times to visit the Flea Markets are in the spring and summertime, when the area is more vibrant. In and around the metro station, you may find the area a little wild, still safe.

Musical Instruments

Rue de Rome, situated near Gare St. Lazare, is crowded with luthiers, brass and woodwind makers, piano sellers, and sheet music stores. Subway station Europe. The area south of the metro station Pigalle is also packed with music shops (more oriented towards guitars and drums).

Artwork

For art lovers, be sure to check out Quartier Saint-Germain-des-Prés, which is renowned for its galleries, and it is impossible to turn a street without finding a gallery to cast your glance in. On Fridays, most open until late. Most even have the benefit of bottles of wine so you can wander in with your glass of wine and feel very artistique. Great roads to walk along are rue de Seine, rue Jacob, rue des Beaux Arts, Rue Bonaparte, and Rue Mazarine. Also, be sure to visit the historical district of Montparnasse' and quartier Vavin where painters like Modigliani, Gauguin and Zadkine used to work.

Eat

This guide uses the following price ranges for dinner typical set menu (starter+main+dessert whenever available):

Budget

below €15

Mid-range

€15-25

Splurge

over €25

Paris is one of Europe's culinary centres. The restaurant trade began here just over 220 years ago and continues to thrive. It may however come as a surprise that Paris isn't considered the culinary capital of France, rather some people prefer the French cooking found in small rural restaurants, outside of the city, closer to the farms and with their focus on freshness and regional specialities. Even amongst French cities, Paris has long been considered by some people as second to Lyon for fine dining.

There have been other challenges in the last 20 years or so as restaurateurs in places like San Francisco and Sydney briefly surpassed their Parisian fore bearers, again with an emphasis on freshness of ingredients but also borrowings from other cuisines. Parisian cooks didn't just rest on their laurels during this time, rather they travelled, taught, and studied, and together with Paris's own immigrant communities, have revitalized the restaurant trade. Today you can find hundreds of beautiful restaurants with thoughtful (or just trendy) interior design and well-planned and executed cartes and menus offering a creative mélange of French and exotic foreign cuisines. It's safe to say that Paris is once again catching up with or edging ahead of its Anglophone rivals.

Of course there are also some traditional offerings, and for the budget conscious there are hundreds of traditional bistros, with their sidewalk terraces offering a choice of fairly simple (usually meat centred) meals for reasonable prices.

For the uninitiated, it is unfortunately possible to have a uniformly poor dining experience during a stay in Paris, mainly because many attractions are situated in upscale areas of town, and that mass tourism attracts price gougers. It is frequent to hear of people complaining of very high Parisian prices for poor food and poor service, because they always tried to eat close to major tourist magnets. For good food and great service, try to go eat where the locals eat .

Many restaurants are tiny and have tables close together - square metres are at a premium and understandably restaurateurs need to make the most of limited space. In some cases when the restaurant is crowded, you may have to sit beside strangers at the same table. If that does not appeal to you, go to a more upscale place where you will pay for the extra space.

Trendy restaurants often require reservations weeks, if not months in advance. If you haven't planned far enough ahead, try to get a reservation for lunch which is generally easier and less expensive.

For an easy-to-manage eating budget while in Paris, consider: breakfast or "petit déjeuner" at a restaurant, possibly in your hotel, consisting of some croissants, coffee, and maybe a piece of fruit. Get a 'walking lunch' from one of Paris' many food stands--a panino in the centre of the city, a crepe from a crepe stand, a felafel pita or take-out Chinese in the Marais. Traiteurs serving Chinese food are ubiquitous in the city and good for a cheap lunch and many pâtisseries sell inexpensive coffee and sandwiches. All these are cheap (about the same as breakfast), easy, and allow you to maximize your sightseeing and walking time while enjoying delicious local or ethnic food. For dinner, stroll the streets at dusk and consider a €20-40 prix-fixe menu. This will get you 3 or 4 courses, possibly with wine, and an unhurried, candlelit, magical European evening. If you alternate days like this with low-budget, self-guided eating (picnicking, snacking, street food) you will be satisfied without breaking the bank.

If one of the aims of your trip to Paris is to indulge in its fine dining, though, the most cost-effective way to do this is to make the main meal of your day lunch. Virtually all restaurants offer a good prix-fixe deal. By complementing this with a bakery breakfast and a light self-catered dinner, you will be able to experience the best of Parisian food and still stick to a budget.

Self catering

Budget travellers will be very pleased with the range and quality of products on offer at the open air markets (e.g. the biggest one on Boul Richard Lenoir (near the Bastille), Rue Mouffetard, Place Buci, Place de la Madeleine and over the Canal Saint-Martin in the 11th or in any other arrondissement). If your accommodation has cooking facilities you're set, especially for wine and cheese, a decent bottle of French wine will set you back all of about €3-5, while the fairly good stuff starts at around €7. Bottles for less than €3 are not recommended. Keep in mind that the small épiceries which open until late are more expensive than the supermarchés (Casino, Monoprix, Franprix, etc). For wine, the price difference can be up to €2.

Buy a baguette, some cheese and a good bottle of wine and join the Parisian youth for a pique-nique along the Seine (especially on the Île Saint-Louis) or along the Canal Saint-Martin. The finest food stores are Lafayette Gourmet in the Galeries Lafayette or La Grande Epicerie in the luxury department store Le Bon Marché. They are worth discovering. You will find a large variety of wines there, otherwise try wine stores such as Nicolas or Le Relais de Bacchus (all over the city).

Some specialities

For seafood lovers, Paris is a great place to try moules frites (steamed mussels and French fries) (better in fall and winter), oysters, sea snails, and other delicacies. Meat specialties include venison (deer), boar, and other game (especially in the fall and winter hunting season), as well as French favourites such as lamb, veal, beef, and pork.

Prices

Eating out in Paris can be expensive. However don't believe people when they say you can't do Paris on the cheap - you can! The key is to stay away from the beaten tracks and the obviously expensive Champs Elysées. Around the lesser visited quarters especially, there are many cheap and yummy restaurants to be found. The key is to order from the prix-fixe menu, and not off the A la Carte menu unless you want to pay an arm and a leg. In many places a three course meal can be found for about €15. This way you can sample the food cheaply and is usually more "French". Ask for "une carafe d'eau" (oon karaaf doe) to get free tap water.

Kosher dining

Paris has the largest number of Kosher restaurants in any European city. Walk up and down Rue des Rosiers to see the variety and choices available from Israeli, Sushi, Italian and others. See the district guides for examples.

Vegetarian dining

For vegetarians, eating traditional French food will require some improvisation, as it is heavily meat-based. That being said, Paris has several excellent vegetarian restaurants. Look for spots such as Aquarius in the 14th, and Le Grenier de Notre-Dame in the 5th, or La Victoire Suprême du Coeur in the 1st just to name a few. See the arrondissement pages for more listings. For fast food and snacks, you can always find a vegetarian sandwich or pizza. Even a kebab shop can make you something with just cheese and salad, or perhaps falafel.

There are also lots of Italian, Thai, Indian, and Mezo-American places where you will have little problem. The famous South Indian chain Saravana Bhavan have their branch near Gare Du Nord. In Rue des Rosiers (4th arrondissement) you can get delicious falafel in the many Jewish restaurants. Another place to look for falafel is on Rue Oberkampf (11th arrondissement). Take away falafel usually goes for €5 or less.

Moroccan and Algerian cooking is common in Paris - vegetarian couscous is lovely. Another good option for vegetarians - are traiteurs, particularly around Ledru Rollin (down the road from Bastille) take away food where you can combine a range of different options such as pomme dauphinoise, dolmas, salads, vegetables, nice breads and cheeses and so on.

Lebanese restaurants and snack shops abound as well, offering a number of vegetarian mezze, or small plates. The stand-bys of course are hummas, falafel, and baba-ganouche (caviar d'aubergine). A good place to look for Lebanese is in the pedestrian zone around Les Halles and Beaubourg in the 1st and 4th.

Tourists and locals

When you are looking for a restaurant in Paris, be wary of those where the staff speak English a bit too readily. These restaurants are usually - but not always - geared towards tourists. It does make a difference in the staff's service and behaviour whether they expect you to return or not.

Sometimes the advertised fixed price tourist menus (€10-15) are a good deal. If you're interested in the really good and more authentic stuff (and if you have learned some words of French) try one of the small bistros where the French go during lunch time.

Drink

The bars scene in Paris really does have something for everyone. From bars which serve drinks in baby bottles, to ultra luxe clubs that require some name dropping, or card (black Amex) showing, and clubs where you can dance like no one's watching, (although they will be). To start your night out right, grab a drink or two in a ubiquitous dive bar, before burning up the dance floor and spreading some cash, at one of the trendy clubs.

- Canal St Martin. Many cozy cafés and other drinking establishments abound around the Canal St Martin in the 10th.

- The Marais. The Marais has a large number of trendier new bars mostly in the 4th and to a lesser extent the 3rd with a few old charmers tossed into the mix. A number of bars and restaurants in the Marais have a decidedly gay crowd, but are usually perfectly friendly to straights as well. Some seem to be more specifically aimed at up-and-coming hetero singles.

- Bastille. There is a very active nightlife zone just to the northeast of Place de Bastille centered around rue de Lappe, rue de la Roquette, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (especially the amazing Club Barrio Latino) and rue de Charonne in the 11th. Many of the bars closest to Bastille have either a North, Central, or South American theme, with a couple of Aussie places mixed in for good measure, and as you continue up rue de Charonne the cafés have more of a traditionally French but grungy feeling.

- Quartier Latin - Odeon. If you're looking for the nouvelle vague (new wave) style, student and intellectual atmosphere of Paris in the 60s and 70s, you'll find a lot of that (and more hip + chique) places in the quartier Latin and between place Odeon and the Seine. The neighborhood is also home of many small artsy cinemas showing non-mainstream films and classics (check 'Pariscope' or 'l'officiel du spectacle' at any newspaper stand for the weekly programme).

- Rue Mouffetard and environs. The area in the 5th on the south side of the hill topped by the Panthéon has a little bit of everything for the nighthawk, from the classy cafés of Place de la Contrescarpe to an Irish-American dive bar just down the way to a hip, nearly hidden jazz café at the bottom of the hill.

- Châtelet. In some ways the Marais starts here in the 1st between Les Halles and Hôtel de Ville but with between all of the tourists and the venerable Jazz clubs on rue des Lombards the area deserves some special attention.

- Montmartre. You'll find any number of cozy cafés and other drinking establishments all around the Butte Montmartre in the 18th, especially check out rue des Abbesses near the Métro station of the same name.

- Oberkampf-Ménilmontant. If you are wondering where to find the hipsters (bobos for bohemian-bourgeois), then this is where to look. There are several clusters of grungy-hip bars all along rue Oberkampf in the 11th, and stretching well into the 20th up the hill on rue de Ménilmontant. It's almost like being in San Francisco's Haight-Fillmore district.

- Bagnolet. There are a cluster of bar/restaurant/nightclubs along the southern end of the Père Lachaise cemetery in the 20th including probably the best place in Paris for nightly local and touring punk rock.

- Rues des Dames-Batignolles. Another good place to find the grungy-chic crowd is the northern end of the 17th around rue des Dames and rue des Batignolles, and if you decide you want something a little different Montmartre is just around the corner.

- Port de Tolbiac. This previously deserted stretch of the river Seine in the 13th was re-born as a center for nightlife (and Sunday-afternoon-life) a few years ago when an electronic music cooperative opened the Batofar. Nowadays there are a number of boats moored along the same quai, including a boat with a Caribbean theme, and one with an Indian restaurant.

- Saint Germain des Prés. This area has two of the most famous cafés in the world: Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots, both catering to the tourists and the snobs who can afford their high prices. This part of the 6th is where the Parisian café scene really started, and there still are hundreds of places to pull up to a table, order a glass, and discuss Sartre deep into the evening.

For individual bar listings see the various Arrondissement pages under Get around.

Of course there are lots of interesting places which are sort of off on their own outside of these clusters, including a few like the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz which are not to be missed in a serious roundup of Parisian drinking, so check out the listings even in those arrondissements we haven't mentioned above.

Some nightclubs in Paris that are worth it: Folies Pigalle (pl. Pigalle, 18th, very trashy, €20), Rex Club (near one of the oldest cinemas on earth, the Grand Rex, house/electro, about €15). You might also want to try Cabaret (Palais Royal), Maison Blanche, le Baron (M Alma-Marceau). Remember when going out to dress to impress, you are in Paris! Torn clothing and sneakers are not accepted. The better you look, the more likely you will get past the random decisions of club bouncers. Also important to remember if male (or in a group of guys) that it will be more difficult to enter clubs; try to always have an equal male/female ratio.

Sleep

Paris hotels, almost without regard to category or price, observe high and low seasons. These differ slightly from one hotel to another, but usually the high season roughly corresponds to late spring and summer, and possibly a couple of weeks around the Christmas season.

Be aware that when a hotel is listed in any guide or website this will eventually make it a bit harder to get a room at that hotel. That means that you will probably need to book ahead, especially in the high season. However, if they don't have a room they sometimes know another place close by that does have a room available.

When two people are travelling together it can be a much better deal to find a hotel room than to get 2 hostel beds. More privacy for less money.

For individual hotel listings see the various Arrondissement pages.

For those who are staying for a while renting a furnished apartment might be a more comfortable and money-saving option. Furnished apartments differ considerably in quality, so it is important to choose carefully. There are a huge number of websites in the business of helping you find one, but most charge a steep commission of 10% or more. It is also possible to rent apartments for shorter stays, and this is an alternative well worth considering.

Stay safe

Crime

Crime in Paris is similar to most large cities, but violent crime is uncommon, especially in the heart of the city where most tourist spots are located (and where there is a high police presence). As elsewhere, common sense applies and you should check your surroundings before flashing out expensive cameras and so on.

Pickpockets are active on the rail link (RER) from Charles de Gaulle airport to downtown Paris and on the number one metro (subway) line that cuts across the city center east to west serving many of the major tourist sites. A common scheme is for one thief to distract the tourist with questions or disturbance while an accomplice picks pockets, a backpack or purse. Thieves often time their crime to coincide with the closing of the automatic doors on the metro, leaving the victim secured on the departing train. Many thefts also occur at the major department stores (Galeries Lafayette, Printemps) where tourists leave wallets, passports and credit cards on cashier counters during transactions.

Popular tourist sites are also popular hunting grounds for thieves who favour congested areas to mask their activities. The crowded elevators at the Eiffel Tower, escalators at museums and the area around the Sacre Cœur church in Montmartre are all favoured by pickpockets and snatch-and-run thieves. If you see a 100-Euro note on the ground, it is probably a fake, designed to make you lean over and pick it up so that your pocket can be picked. This scam has been seen at the bookstalls on the Seine near the Louvre.

The area around the famous Moulin Rouge is known as Pigalle, an adult entertainment area known for prostitutes, sex shows and drugs (on an unrelated note, it also has a concentration of guitar shops). Unsuspecting tourists visiting seedy bars often run up exorbitant bar bills and are forced to pay before being permitted to leave. If you do visit an adult show absolutely do not order any drinks for yourself, or any of the workers, without seeing the prices first. You could pay upwards of €600 for 2 drinks!

The Marché aux Puces (Les Puces) flea market is virtually designed to make pickpocketing easy and gangs can be witnessed spotting victims. Walkways are often crowded, narrow, dark, with no way out except to wait for the extraordinarily-slow walkers to move.

There are some areas, like Barbès (18th), where it's better not to hang around alone at night. In these areas, a lot depends on the way you behave and if you know how to adapt to the situation. If you know what you are looking for, speak some French and feel comfortable, there is no problem strolling around a neighborhood like Barbès.

You may have heard sensational news reports about riots in downtrodden, poor crime-ridden suburbs of Paris (banlieues) where many inhabitants are of foreign origin (North Africa). In reality, many of these suburbs, though poor, are safe in normal times. The subject is very touchy, since it has racist overtones; you should certainly avoid discussing it. In any case, as a tourist there probably isn't much reason to visit the suburbs except for perhaps the Basilique de St Denis. Other attractions located in the suburbs (Fontainebleau castle, Versailles castle, Malmaison...) are in well-heeled areas with very little crime.

The metro is relatively safe, but again, pickpockets and purse snatchers do work in the stations and on the trains especially near tourist destinations. If you are carrying a bag make sure that it's closed tightly. If you have a wallet in your pocket keep a hand on it while entering or exiting the trains. Don't carry any more cash than you can afford to lose. Keep your cash on different parts of your body: some in your money belt, some in your purse/wallet, some in your shoe. Keep the contents of your purse/wallet to the bare essentials: money, one debit/credit card, I.D., emergency contact information, medical I.D. When you have to access your money belt, do so in private.

Recent news reports have highlighted new tactics by thieves, targeting taxis on their way into the city from Charles de Gaulle airport. Thieves wait for the taxi to be stopped in the usual traffic jam along the A1 highway and break windows to get to the passengers' bags. To avoid this, you may place your bags in the trunk of the taxi or take the very safe Air France shuttle. Cars that stop at gas stations or rest stops near to Paris may be the victim of gangs who surreptitiously puncture a tire with an ice pick, then follow the vehicle onto the highway and rob the driver when he stops to fix the flat tire.

You should also beware of illegal taxis. At least one young foreign tourist has been murdered after getting into a car that was not - as she'd believed - an official Parisian taxi.

Beware also of distraught-looking women and children asking if you can speak English (they are easy to spot because they often have long dark hair, long skirts, and they wander around, going from person to person). You'll be presented with a card or letter with a story explaining something like "My mother is in hospital in another country terminally ill. I'm stuck in Paris with no money and I need to visit her." You´ll encounter them at the major train and Métro stations (they are especially prevalent in and around Gare du Nord and Châtelet-Les Halles) and also at most major tourist attractions. Even on the Champs-Élysées. They are also prevalent around the Arc de Triomphe near the Embassy of Qatar. At certain tourist hotspots (such as the Sacre Coeur) there are African men who will try to show you a 'magic trick'. This involves tying a piece of string around your finger. While you are distracted (and your arm is effectively disabled), an accomplice will pickpocket you.

Some Parisian restaurants, particularly in the tourist-laden Latin Quarter, make a living ripping off tourists who are hampered by a language barrier. When ordering, particularly if ordering a "menu" or prix-fixe meal, point to the actual menu item and be sure you repeat the price. Eye contact works wonders, as does a modicum of conversational French. If the bill does not conform to what you order, complain and leave the restaurant without paying if this does not work.

Beware of touristy areas where there are gambling stands with people playing. They are more than likely to be accomplices of the person manning the booth. They usually play with 3 black rubber coins to guess the one with a white piece of paper stuck underneath. You can never win at that as they switch hands and do not let you open it yourself. If you ever get cheated there, shout at them loudly and refuse to let them go as they usually operate in crowded places.

Another thing to be wary of is people asking where do you come from with strings in their hand. They will make small talk with you while tying a friendship band around your finger. After that they will demand money from you. Sometimes, along the Seine River, fraudsters "find" a ring which they give to you. This happens especially to young couples and they always hand the ring to the man. This gesture is thought to gain some trustfulness because they act as if they think the ring was yours. They don't want you to give the ring back. A few moments later they ask you for money to buy something to eat: but it is already too late. It is really hard to get rid of those people then.

Also, be warned to not act big. Fraudsters react unpredictably, sometimes even violently. So take care that you call attention discreetly, when you want to tell people that a fraud is underway.

A more recent scam involves young, frequently attractive women coming up to tourists with pledge sheets. They pretend to be deaf people collecting money for one charity or another. These scammers frequent heavily-touristed areas and are generally harmless. If you simply ignore them they will leave you alone. It's probably best not to make a scene, as they may be working with larger men nearby.

Since 2007 smoking in enclosed areas has been prohibited (train stations, subway stations, buildings), and since 1 Jan 2008, smoking is no longer permitted in restaurants and bars, except for outside seating areas.

Respect

Paris has, in some respects, an atmosphere closer to that of New York than to that of a European city; which is to say, hurried, and businesslike. Parisians have, among the French too, a reputation for being rude and arrogant. Some of their reputation for brusqueness may stem from the fact that they are constantly surrounded by tourists, who can sometimes themselves seem rude and demanding. Remember that most people you'll encounter in the street are not from the tourism industry and are probably on their way to or from work or business.

This is not to say that Parisians are in fact, by nature, rude. On the contrary: there are a considerable number of rules defining what is rude and what is polite in Parisian interpersonal relationships; if anything, the Parisians are more polite than most. Thus, the best way to get along in Paris is to be on your best behavior, acting like someone who is "bien élevé" (well brought up) will make getting about considerably easier. Parisians' abrupt exteriors will rapidly evaporate if you display some basic courtesies. A simple "Bonjour, Madame" when entering a shop, for example, or "Excusez-moi" when trying to get someone's attention, are very important; say "Pardon" or better "je suis désolé" if you bump into someone accidentally or make other mistakes; if you speak French or are using a phrasebook remember to always use the vous form when addressing someone you don't know, may transform the surliest shop assistant into a smiling helper or the grumpiest inhabitant to a helpful citizen. Courtesy is extremely important in France (where the worst insult is to call someone "mal élevé", or "badly brought up").

If you only learn one long phrase in French a good one would be "Excusez-moi de vous déranger, monsieur/madame, auriez-vous la gentillesse de m'aider?" (pardon me for bothering you, sir/madam, would you have the kindness to help me?) - this level of extreme politeness is about the closest one can come to a magic wand for unlocking Parisian hospitality. If you know some French, try it!

In addition, if you are travelling to or from the airport or train station and have luggage with you, make certain that you are not blocking the aisles in the train by leaving your bags on the floor. The RER B (which links both Orly and Charles de Gaulle airports to the city) has luggage racks above the seats; it is best to use them so you do not block the path of a local who is getting off the train before the airport stop. On the Métro and especially in the RER, please don't take up extra seats with your luggage. There are luggage racks and spaces between the seats. Also note that use of the folding seats on the Métro is not permitted during peak hours.

Be aware that there are hefty fines for littering in Paris; however, enforcement is quite lax in some areas.

Contact

One helpful thing about having official and numbered districts in Paris is that you can easily tell which arrondissement an address is in by its postal code, and can easily come up with the postal code for a Paris address if you know its arrondissement. The rule is just pre-pend 750 or 7500 to the front of the arrondissement number, with 75001 being the postal code for the 1st and 75011 being the postal code for the 11th, and so on. The 16th has two postal codes, 75016 and 75116.

Phone cards are available from most "Tabacs" but make sure you know where you can use them when you buy them, as some places still sell the cartes cabines which are hard to use as cabines are rare.

The city of Paris provides with free Internet access via 400 Wi-Fi access points throughout the city, including many public parks. Look for the network called 'Orange' on your laptop or PDA device. [63]

Cope

Although known as the fashion capital, Paris is actually quite conservative in dress. So if you go out in bright colors expect to be stared at. Dressing this way in certain arrondissements, such as 9th and 18th, may attract unwanted attention. Also be aware that French (and, more generally, European) women and girls do not usually wear shorts shorter than above the knee outside of sporting events. It is not considered indecent but may stand out from the locals.

Embassies

- China, 11, Avenue George V and consular office at 20, rue Washington, +33 1 49 52 19 50 (Consular office +33 1 47 36 77 90, chinaemb_fr@mfa.gov.cn, fax: +33 1 47 20 24 22, consular office +33 1 47 36 34 46), [64].

- Japan, 7, Avenue Hoche, +33 1 48 88 62 00 (fax: +33 1 42 27 50 81), [65].

- Philippines, 4 Hameau de Boulainvilliers 45 rue du Ranela, +33 1 44 14 57 00, [66].

- United States, 2, Avenue Gabriel, +33 1 43 12 22 22 (citizeninfo@state.gov, fax: +33 1 42 66 97 83), [67].

- Australia, 4, rue Jean Rey, +33 1 40 59 33 00 (fax: +33 1 40 59 33 10), [68].

Get out

- Chartres - The 12th century cathedral of Notre Dame at Chartres is one of the highlights of Gothic architecture.(60 mn trainride from Gare Montparnasse)

- Versailles - On the SW edge of Paris, the site of the Sun King Louis XIV's magnificent palace. (20-40 min trainride by RER)

- Saint Denis - On the northern edge of the metropolis, site of the Stade de France and St Denis Abbey, burial place of French royalty.

- Chantilly - Wonderful 17th century palace and gardens (and the birthplace of whipped cream). (25 min trainride from Gare du Nord)

- Giverny - The inspirational house and gardens of the Impressionist painter Claude Monet are but a day-trip away. The gardens and its flowers are the most interesting part of the visit, so avoid rainy days.

- Disneyland Resort Paris - In the suburb of Marne-la-Vallée, to the east of Paris, from where it can be reached by car, train, or bus (the train is probably your best bet).

- Fontainebleau - A lovely historical town south of Paris (55.5 km or 35 mi). It is renowned for its large and scenic Forest of Fontainebleau, a favorite weekend getaway for Parisians, as well as for the historical Château de Fontainebleau. (35 min trainride from Gare de Lyon)

District 1th Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By Métro

• Get around

• See

Landmarks

Museums and Galleries

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Contact

Internet Cafés

Wireless Hotspots

Understand
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Paris was historically centered on the Ile de la cité, but by the time Baron von Hausmann was given the task of carving up the city, the center had shifted somewhat to the previously suburban Royal Quarter surrounding the Louvre and the Palais Royal.

Get in
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Travelers arriving at one of the airports will probably get in via the RER-B line at the formidable Métro station Châtelet/Les Halles, read on for details.

By Métro
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Châtelet/Les Halles, the hub for the 1 and D lines is the largest and busiest of all Métro stations. There exists a total of seven entrances/exits scattered around the eastern end of the 1st Arrondissement, concentrated (not surprisingly) between Les Halles and Place du Châtelet, and also accessing the basement of the Les Halles shopping mall itself. If you are in a hurry—or have never used this station previously—it might be better to alight one Métro stop earlier or later. Of course, if you are transferring to or traveling on one of the RER lines, brace yourself. Châtelet/Les Halles is a French equivalent for New York City's Grand Central Station.

Line 1 line crosses travels the length of the arrondissement, arriving from Chateau de Vincinnes in the east via Gare de Lyon, and La Défence in the west. Most of the stations are fairly easy to use with the exception of Châtelet/Les-Halles. If you have a choice go for Palais-Royale/Musée-de-Louvre or Tuileries.

Line 14 line is the newest metro line, and probably the best way to arrive from Gare de Lyon, and thus from Switzerland or the South of France since it is a fully automated express train. Think of it as a sort of a horizontal elevator. It stops at Châtelet/Les-Halles and Pyramides.

Line 7 cuts diagonally across from the northwest to the southeast or the other way depending on how you look at it. Entering from the southwest (perhaps Gare d Austerlitz) you'll want to get off at Pont Neuf.

Line 4 runs north and south through the east end of the arrondissement, mostly under Châtelet. Again, we prefer the Cité or Etienne-Marcel stops to the Châtelet madness.

All four RER lines cross the arrondissement and stop at Chatelet/Les-Halles.

Get around
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Having arrived in the 1st arrondissement walking will most likely suffice for transport. That said, Paris cabs are quite cheap. Still, even they don't have access to much of the carfree eastern end of the arrondissement.

If traveling from east to west by Métro you are probably best off using any other stations than Châtelet/Les Halles unless you have to connect there. Although the Métro trains themselves are fast and frequent, the crowded labyrinth at Châtelet can make getting to the trains an adventure.

See
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Landmarks
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- Le Louvre (The Louvre), (Métro: Palais Royal/Louvre), +33 1 40 20 53 17, [2]. Open daily except Tuesdays and certain public holidays. Permanent collections 9 am to 6 pm (Wed and Fri til 10 pm). Under the pyramid is open 9 am to 10 pm. The primary landmark of the 1st arrondissement: as well as housing one of the world's great museums since 1793, the former palace offers some dazzling architecture, wide public spaces and the glass pyramid of I M Pei. Of course there's also quite a bit to see inside the building; see our coverage under Museums below.

- Jardin des Tuileries, (Métro: Tuileries). Originally adjoining the now-disappeared royal palace of the Tuileries, these gardens lying immediately west of the Louvre offer a central open space for Parisians and visitors with semi-formal gardens (an outdoor gallery for modern sculpture), various cafés, ice-cream and crépe stalls and a summer fun fair. The gardens are frequently home to a giant ferris wheel and enclose the Musée de la Orangerie and the Jeu de Paume (see below).

- Colonne Vendôme, (Métro: Opéra). The centerpiece of a magnificent 8-sided square first laid out in 1699 to show off an equestrian statue of the Sun King, Louis XIV. The statue was removed amidst Revolutionary fervor in 1792 and replaced in 1806 with the Colonne de la Grande Armée. This was modeled on Trajan's column in Rome and decorated with Napoleon's military exploits. The present column is a replica, however, as the original was pulled down during the 1871 Paris Commune. Place Vendôme represents the best of well-heeled Paris, being home to an abundance of exclusive boutiques, jewelers and fashion labels - Cartier, Boucheron, Trussardi, van Cleef & Arpels - several banks, the French Ministry of Justice and the Ritz Hotel.

- Le Palais Royal, +33 1 45 20 82 56, [3]. 7:00am to 11:00pm during the summer and 7:00am to 8:30pm in the winter with hours varying in the spring and Autumn months. Ordered by Cardinal de Richelieu (1585-1642), King Louis XIIIth's prime Minister in 1629 (completed in 1636); originally called Palais Cardinal; it became Le Palais Royal when Anne d'Autriche, Louis XIIIth's wife, came to live here to get away from the Louvre palace. It eventually housed Louis the XIVth until the move to Versailles. It includes also a beautiful garden Les jardins du Palais Royal, enclosed within the buildings. It's been the theater of one of the seminal events of the French Revolution (Camille Desmoulins made a famous declaration here in 1789). The Théatre Français nearby was built in 1716. There are numerous restaurants inside the garden , including famous Le Grand Véfour. There's also the controversial Colonnes de Buren, striped columns installed within the inside yard among the XVIIth century architecture.

- Église Saint-Eustache, (Located near Les Halles and the Bourse de Commerce), [4]. This massive church is one of the best standing examples of the early Gothic style.

- Sainte Chapelle, 4 blvd du Palais (Métro: Cité), +33 (0)1 53 73 8 51. Soaring stained glass windows beaming ample light onto the rich primary colors of the tile mosaics on the floor, this photogenic church was built by the French kings to house the relics of the Crown of Thorns - far more beautiful than the famous, but gloomy, Notre Dame which is nearby. Make sure you go on a sunny day, as the highlight of this small chapel in Rayonnante Gothic style are the large stained-glass windows which soar up to near the vaulted ceiling. Also of interest is the extremely ornate lower level. If it happens to be rainy or cloudy, give Sainte Chappelle a miss, as the play of colored lights on the floor are well worth the wait for a sunnier day. The chapelle is located inside the Courts of Justice, there will thus be a security check.

- La Conciergerie, (Métro: Cité), +33 1 53 73 78 50, [5]. open daily 9.30am - 6.30pm April - September; daily 10 am - 5 pm October - March, entry €6.10, concessions and guided tours available, under-18s free - the ancient medieval fortress and prison of the city's island, site of some remarkable medieval royal architecture and the scene of Marie Antoinette's imprisonment in the period leading to her execution in 1793 - lots of Revolutionary associations.

Museums and Galleries
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- Musée du Louvre, Place du Carrousel (Métro: Louvre), +33 1 40 20 53 17, [6]. open daily 10am-6pm, closed Tuesdays and some public holidays, evening openings We and Fr until 9.45pm, 1st Su of the month. Free admission for all, general admission (not including special exhibitions) adults €9, evening openings adults €6, special exhibition €8.50; combined ticket (museum + special exhibition) adults €13, evening openings €11 Carte Musée. Its exhibits come from such diverse origins as ancient Egypt, classical Greece and Rome, medieval Europe and Napoleonic France. Its most famous exhibit, of course, is Leonardo da Vinci's painting of the Mona Lisa (French: La Joconde, Italian: La Gioconda), generally to be found surrounded by hordes of camera-flashing tourists. If you want to see everything in the Louvre, plan at least two full days. However, it is better to pick and choose, as the collection was assembled with an eye to completeness rather than quality.

- Musée en Herbe, 21 rue Hérold (Métro: Les Halles, Palais Royal, Rambuteau, Sentier), +33 1 40 67 97 66, [7]. Open daily 10 :00 am to 7 :00 pm.. A little brother for the original Musée en Herbe in the Bois de Boulogne, this museum is also geared for children. They have games and hands-on exhibits so won't have to supervise quite as closely as in other museums. Arts workshops are available as well, but you'll need to reserve a space in advance. €4 for the exhibitions, €8 for the workshops.

- l'Orangerie (Musée de la Orangerie), +33 1 44 77 80 07, [8]. open daily, except Tu, Christmas Day and 1st May; individuals 12.30pm-7pm, until 9pm Th; groups 9.30am-12.30pm; admission €6.50 adults, concessions €4.50, special exhibition + €1.20; audio guides available in several languages €4.50 / €3 - recently reopened after extensive renovations, this small museum near the Louvre houses the Jean Walter and Paul Guillaume Collection, sold to the French Republic on very generous terms and numbering 143 paintings from the late 19th century and the first half of the 20th century (15 Cézannes, 24 Renoirs, 10 Matisses, 12 Picassos, 28 Derains, 22 Soutines… ). The collection joined the eight immense Water Lilies that Monet gave France in 1922 and which have been displayed since 1927 in two huge oval rooms purpose-built on the artist's instructions.

- Jeu de Paume, (northwestern corner of the Jardin des Tuileries). Built during the First Empire, in imitation of the Orangerie this small building is used by the Galerie Nationale to mount shows dedicated to lesser known, but nonetheless interesting artists, or (sometimes) the lesser known works of the Great Masters. This museum once housed many of the Impressionist painters that are now to be found in the Musée d'Orsay on the other side of the River Seine.

- Musée des Arts décoratifs, 107, rue de Rivoli, +33 1 44 55 57 50, [9]. Around the corner from the Musée du Louvre at Rue de Rivoli 107 - monument to the French art de vivre, housed in a 19th-century wing of the Louvre that has been restored to Beaux-Arts splendor, its galleries and period rooms showcasing eight centuries of Gallic taste in interior decoration.

Do
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One of the great joys of a visit to Paris is to simply walk around and explore to get the feel of the city. The 1st is as good a place to start as any, with the largely car-free section around Les Halles, and the right bank of the river Seine as good places to start. As a little bonus if you are in Paris in the summer time, the express lanes at river level are converted to an all pedestrian road called "Paris Plage" which fills with rollerbladers and sun-bathers just about every afternoon.

A number of Paris theaters are located in the eastern end of the 1st. English language productions are not unheard of, but the opera is likely to be in Italian anyhow. Your best bet if you are interested in finding a show in either language is to pick up a copy of Pariscope which you can find at any newsstand for around €0.50. There are ticket outlets at Forum Les Halles (FNAC) among other locations.

Buy
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- Forum les Halles, (Métro: Les Halles). Open daily from 9am to 7pm. In the late 1960s what was Paris' primary farmers' market moved out to the suburbs to be replaced by a park above ground, and a sprawling underground shopping center below. The interior design is strikingly period (think Logan's Run). The place is showing its age now, but still draws nearly a half-million parisien/ennes per day, mostly teenagers. There's a movie theater and a media library too.

- Rue Montorgueil, (Métro: Les Halles or Etienne-Marcel). To the north and west of Les Halles almost all of the streets are car-free including this one, on which you can find a wide range of food shops including two great bakers, a fish market, and a bio organic foods store.

- Le Carrousel du Louvre. A diverse underground shopping precinct adjoining the Louvre Museum. Open daily including Sundays. There is also a direct access into the Louvre.

- W.H. Smith, 248 rue de Rivoli (Métro: Concorde), +33 1 44 77 88 99, [10]. Monday through Saturday 9:00am to 7:30pm, Sunday 1:00pm to 7:30pm. The largest English language bookshop in Paris carries many of the newest releases.

- Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré (Métro: Tuileries), +33 1 55 35 33 90 (contact@colette.fr, fax: +33 1 55 35 33 99), [11]. Monday through Saturday 11:00am to 7:00pm. One of the most interesting shopping experiences anywhere, an eclectic collection of design, fashion, gadgets and music.

- Librairie Galignani, 224 rue Rivoli (Métro : Concorde), +33 1 42 60 76, [12]. British & American bookshop, specialized in fine arts.

Eat
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The 1st provides rather a wide range of eating possibilities, considering its central location and overall poshness. A large variety of inexpensive food is sold out of windows and stalls, especially on the car-free east end of the arrondissement near Les Halles. You'll always pay a bit more to sit down, of course.

On the other hand if you are looking for a nice posh place to take your mom or a date there are plenty, and some of them actually have food that is good enough to be worth the considerable prices.

Budget
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- La Crypte Polska, place Maurice Barrés (Métro: Concorde), +33 1 42 60 43 33. Noon-3pm and 7pm to 10pm. Closed Monday. Believe it or not this little Polish restaurant is in the crypt under the church of Our Lady of the Assumption, and the Catholic-mystic decor alone makes a visit worthwhile. Plus the pierogies are about as good as you are going to find in Paris. Expect to pay 12 to 20€ per person for the whole meal.

- Lemoni Café (1st, 5 Rue Hérold), (Métro: Palais Royal), +33 1 45 08 49 84. closed Sundays.

- Universal Resto, mezzanine level, Le Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli - 75001 Paris (Métro: Palais Royal), +33 1 40 20 04 04 (infos@universal-resto.com, fax: +33 1 40 20 93 93), [13]. daily 8.00 AM - 11.00 PM. A food court where some 13 stalls offer a variety of French and international cuisine including Lebanese, Mexican, Moroccan, Chinese and Japanese. Affordable prices starting from 10€.

Mid-Range
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- Café Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli / cour Napoléon du Louvre (Métro: Palais Royal), +33 1 49 26 06 60. Open daily 8 am - 2 pm. Part of the Grand Louvre redevelopment, Café Marly was opened in 1994 and is situated within the balcony on the northern terrace of the Cour Napoléon. Patrons can enjoy the direct views of the Louvre Pyramid whilst sitting back in comfortable chairs, watching tourists stroll by whilst supping on slightly / not outrageously above-average-price brasserie selections (you're paying a premium for the location!)-- Especially recommended : Sunday morning Brunch! Stunning view in the rising sun.

- Aux Trois Oliviers, 37 bis rue de Montpensier (Métro: Palais Royal-Louvre), +33 1 40 20 03 02. This colorful and non-pretentious restaurant offers a range of dishes from throughout France and around the world. The mojitos are said to be quite good, as is the wine list. There's live entertainment (chansons français) each Friday night. Expect to spend around 15€ per person at lunch or 20€ at night.

- Chez Denise (Tour de Montlhéry), 5 rue Prouvaires (Métro: Les Halles), +33 1 42 36 21 82. Tues-Sun: noon-2:15pm & 7pm-11pm Mon: 7pm-11pm This little owner-operated bistro presents traditional French country food in a nearly rustic setting. As such it's not exactly veggie-friendly, but it is open for dinner until an incredible 5:00am. Starters are from 10-12€ and main courses are 18-25€, then there's the wine.

- La Robe et le Palais, 13 rue des Lavandieres Sainte Opportune, +33 1 45 08 07 41, [14]. Mon-Sat: noon-14:40 & 19:30-23:00. A small restaurant serving mostly tasty Basque food. Fantastic choice of wines.

Splurge
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- Point Bar, 40 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré (Métro: Opéra or Pyramides), +33 1 42 61 76 28. Alice Bardet, the daughter of a famous French chef de cuisine, Jean Bardet, has provided a prime example of great French restauranteering for the rest of us as a way of making her own name in the business. She is said to have grown up in her parent's restaurant, and has brought the style, the techniques, and a feeling for quality ingredients along. Lunchtime Menus start at just 15€, but the prices move toward the splurge category at night when you'll spend around 40€ per person ordering à la carte.

- Maceo, 15, rue des Petits Champs (Métro: Pyramides), +33 1 42 96 98 89, [15]. What was once just a great wine bar with decent food has become a must-visit restaurant with the addition of star chef Thierry Bourbonnais. The second-empire atmosphere sets the stage for the fantastic food, making this a great value for a not terribly pricey splurge. Starters run 13-18€ and main courses are 25-28€. There's even a Vegetarian menu for around 30€.

Drink
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- Bar Hemingway, 15 Place Vendôme (Métro: Pyramides), +33 1 43 16 33 65 (fax: +33 1 43 16 33 75). Hemingway tried to drink here once per week even before he made it. Afterwards it was his favorite: when in August of 1944 Hemingway made a booze-powered drive into Paris ahead of the advancing Free French 2nd tank division it was to "liberate the Ritz", and specifically the bar which was shortly thereafter re-named in his honor. Today the bar is considered by many to be one of the best bars in the world, in no small part due to the bar-tending skills of Colin Field, who creates elaborate cocktails as a fine art, and with the rest of the staff is skilled at bringing his guests together in conversation. Expect to pay €30 or more per drink. (48.8690130,2.3276673)

- Le Comptoir Paris-Marrakech, 37, rue Berger (Métro: Les Halles), +33 1 40 26 26 66. A swank drinking and people watching spot on a corner across from the park above Les Halles. There are nice stuffed couches all over the room, and meze snacks are served. The place picks up speed a bit in the evening, attracting quite a mixed crowd. (48.8617962,2.3435712)

- Le Cab, 2, Place du Palais Royal (Métro: Palais Royal/Louvre), +33 1 58 62 56 25 (fax: +33 1 58 62 56 40), [16]. Featuring several spaces for divergent tastes, the Cabaret has an all white Easy-Listener space, a tropical cabana, a gigantic dance floor and more. The sounds vary from hip-hop to house to R'n'B. Expect to pay 8€ for beer and 13€ for a mixed drink, assuming the bouncers let you in.

- Café Oz, 18, rue Saint Denis, +33 1 40 39 00 18, [17]. You probably didn't think you were coming to Paris to sample Australian culture, but if after a long day of strolling from one end of the city to another you would just like to let go a bit and meet up with some fellow Anglophones then you could do a lot worse than this almost legendarily hard-partying Aussie joint (ask the neighbors). Warning: as with other Aussie places in Paris for some reason, weekend nights here tend to bring out hoards of young single Frenchmen looking to chat up some (any) visiting anglophonette. This has been known to lead to, um, confrontations. ~7€ Pints.

- Juvénile's, 47 rue Richelieu, +33 1 42 97 46 49. Nice wine + tapas bar cum wine shop : nice food, nice wines from around the world, & you can buy a bottle to take home if you like it!

- Willi's Wine Bar, 13 rue des Petits Champs, +33 1 42 61 05 09, [18]. It's actually a restaurant and is more upscale than 'Juvéniles', serving good food and good to great bottles of wine with a focus on the Rhône valley, but including many from Burgundy, the Loire, as well as Italians and "Atlantic crossing" Califorians. The dinner menu by chef François Yon Great won the "Bib Gourmet 2009" award, and there are cheeses & deserts (yummy crumble)) for after. Reservation recommended. €20.50-€35.00.

Sleep
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Some of the most opulent hotels in the world are located either in or very close to the 1st arrondissement, and there's some choice in the mid-range. Budget travelers, on the other hand are probably better off in other, less central parts of town.

Budget
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- Centre International BVJ Paris-Louvre, 20 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (Métro: Louvre), +33 1 53 00 90 90 (fax: +33 1 53 00 90 91). With beds starting at 26€ this is just about as cheap as it's going to get in the 1st. If you are here to study the art at the Louvre, and want to stay focused it has a location which can't be beat, just across rue Rivoli. (48.8625381,2.3410622)

- Hotel de Rouen, 42, Rue Croix des Petits Champs (Métro: Louvre), +33 1 42 61 38 21 (reservation@hotelderouen.net), [19]. 3 minutes walk from the louvre. Doubles start at 55€, singles at 45€. Breakfast is 6€.. (48.8643861,2.3404551)

- Hôtel Saint-Honoré, 85 Rue Saint-Honoré (Métro: Louvre), +33 1 42 36 20 38, [20]. This is as cheap as it gets for a hotel in this most central of locations, very close to the Louvre. The place was renovated in the last few years, so the comfort level is pretty good considering it hasn't received a star rating yet. (48.8611083,2.3433014)

- Hôtel Montpensier, 12 Rue de Richelieu, +33 1 42 96 28 50 (fax: +33 01 42 86 02 70), [21]. Another semi-cheapie right in the middle of everything. (2.3363679,48.8643457)

Mid-Range
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- Hôtel Victoria Châtelet, 17 Avenue Victoria (Métro: Chatêlet), +33 1 40 26 90 17 (fax: +33 1 40 26 35 61), [22]. A cozy, competitivly priced 24 room hotel with a friendly Art Deco atmosphere. It is located next to the Chatelet Theatre in the very centre of Paris across Notre Dame. It is close to bus, taxi, Metro and RER stations: Chatelet les Halles, as well as three nearby monitored parking garages. Basic rooms start at €89 and double at €90. (48.8580327,2.3460262)

- Hôtel Louvre Bon Enfants (Hôtel le Loiret), 5, rue des Bons-Enfants (Métro: Palais-Royal), +33 1 42 61 47 31, [23]. Most reviewers give the hotel formerly known as Loiret very high marks for cleanliness and comfort, but the real draw is the location: only steps from the Palais Royal/Louvre stop on Métro Line 1. Single rooms start at €90, doubles around €110. (48.8627944,2.3381080)

- Hôtel Britannique, 20 Avenue Victoria (Métro: Chatêlet), +33 1 42 33 74 59 (fax: +33 1 42 33 82 65), [24]. Anglophiles in Paris could do worse than to stay at this most Anglophile of French hotels. The location is good, at the very east end of the 1st, within an easy walk of Notre Dame, Les Halles, and above the central hub Métro station. Double from €157. (48.8583295,2.3461341)

- Mon Hotel (A member of Sterling Hotels), 1 Rue d'Argentine, +33 1 450 27676, [25]. Sleek and modern rooms with rotating artwork provided by a local art agency. The Mon Hotel is within minutes of the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Elysées. €110-215.

- Hôtel Brighton, 218 rue de Rivoli, [26]. The executive and deluxe room offer a breathtaking view on the Louvre, the Jardin des Tuileries and the Eiffel Tower. Classic Parisian style hotel located next to Paris shopping and cultural hot spots. Double from €229.

- Hôtel Mansart, 5 rue des Capucines, [27]. This charming 3 stars hotel is located next to the Place Vendome and 2 minutes walk from the Opera Garnier and famous parisian Department stores. Antique furniture and paintings create an atmosphere of typical Parisian house.

- Hôtel de la Place du Louvre, 21 rue des Prêtres Saint Germain l'Auxerrois, [28]. As its name suggests it, this hotel is located really close to the Louvre Museum. Rooms on the street offer an impressive view on the Louvre and its central location is ideal to visit Paris.

Splurge
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- Castille Paris, 33-37 rue Cambon, +33 144 584 458, [29]. Located in the fashion district of Paris, the Castille Paris offers chic rooms that all look out onto the Rue Cambon. Some rooms are designed in a "Coco Chanel" style with beige and black tones. €350-820.

- Hôtel Vendôme, 1, Place Vendôme (Métro: Pyramides), +33 1 55 04 55 00. Occupying a building which was once the site of the Embassy of the Republic of Texas the Hotel Vendôme is one of the most exclusive addresses anywhere, much like the neighboring Ritz. The 29 rooms each have been decorated in the style of a different period, such as Classic, Baroque, or Deco. Singles start at only 350€, and suites can be as much as 4000€. Hey, compared to the Ritz it's a bargain! (48.8670031,2.3287060)

- Hôtel Costes, 239 Rue Saint-Honoré (Métro: Concorde), +33 1 42 44 50 00 (fax: +33 1 42 55 50 01), [30]. When the Costes brothers who made their fortune in the Paris café trade opened this designer hotel a couple of years ago it became an instant hit with the rich and famous, especially of Hollywood. Whether it's worth the price for the exquisite interior decoration and the chance to rub elbows with a few movie stars is up to you to decide. A basic room starts at 500€ in the off season. Be warned: they don't pay travel agents commissions, so either book it yourself, or pony up the extra 50€ the agent would normally get. (48.8664365,2.3286655)

- Hôtel Ritz, 15 Place Vendôme (Métro: Pyramides), +33 1 43 16 30 70 (resa@ritzparis.com, fax: +33 1 43 16 36 68), [31]. If there is any one hotel in the world which is not merely "putting on" the Ritz it would be this one, whose very name has entered the English language as a generic word for luxury (or the appearance thereof). The Ritz may not in fact be the fanciest hotel in Paris anymore, but it's always in the running. Rooms start at 650€ per night, and run right up to 8500€ (350x the price of our budget entry in the neighborhood), but heck, maybe it's your honeymoon. (48.8683694,2.3282338)

- Hotel Keppler, 10, rue Kepler, 33 - 1 47 20 65 05 (hotel@keppler.fr, fax: 33 - 1 47 23 02 29), [32]. The hotel is well decorated and maintains a chic parisien atmosphere. The rooms are comfortable, with all the amenities anyone could ever expect. Good breakfast. The exercise area enough to maintain your routine with a steam after. Everyone here does their job with professionalism and good grace. 300 - 1000€.

Contact
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Internet Cafés
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La Baguenaude, 30, rue Grande-Truanderie (Métro: Les Halles), [33]. This all SUSE Linux shop offers 1/2 hour (2.30€), hour (3.80€), and 2 hour (6.10€) time slots. They also offer courses in the use of KDE and the Gimp (in French of course).

Wireless Hotspots
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There are a number of cafés in each arrondissement which offer Free wireless for drinking customers (for 20 minutes at a time). Here are a couple in the first:

- Le Commerce, 12, rue Coquillère (Métro: Etienne Marcel).

- Chez Flottes, 2, rue Cambon (Métro: Concorde).

- Tabac du Châtelet, 8, rue Saint Denis (Métro: Châtelet).

- Café du Pont Neuf, 14, quai du Louvre (Métro: Pont Neuf).

A complete listing is available from the company which provides the service:

- HotCafe, 56, rue du Temple, +33 1 42 77 35 63, [34]. Phone support available from 9am to 10pm.

Of course many hotels also offer wireless connectivity, but usually for a fee.

District 2nd Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By Métro

Get Around

• See

Museums

Architecture

History

• Do

• Buy

The Galleries

• Eat

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Contact

Understand
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Get in
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By Métro
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Being right in the middle of the city, the 2nd Arrondissement is well served by the Métro system. 5 lines provide direct access to the district via 10 different stations.

- Lines 8 and 9 both run east-west right across the northern edge of the arrondissement with 4 stations, distanced every 200 to 400 meters. Take your pick, all of the stations are small, and unless you're making a connection just as good as another.

- Line 3 runs east-west right through the center of the arrondissement, with 5 stations down rue du Quatre Septembre and rue Réaumur.

- Line 4 runs north-south along the eastern edge.

- Line 7 running north-south, has one stop (Opéra) near the western edge of the arrondissement.

Get Around
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As the 2nd is the smallest arrondissement, it is easy to travel many places within it on foot. It's possible to comfortably walk the entire perimeter of the district in around an hour. Much of the south-eastern corner is closed to traffic.

See
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Museums
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- la Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Richelieu, 58 rue Richelieu (Métro: Bourse or Palais-Royal), +33 1 53 79 59 59, [1]. Reading rooms: mon-fri 9am-6pm, sat 9am-5pm, exhibitions: tue-sat 10am-7pm. Especially try to visit the cabinet des Médailles. library: free, exhibitions €5-€10.

Architecture
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The 2nd arrondissement covers some of the nicest old parts of Paris.

- Place des Victoires. Beautiful round 'square' with an equestrian statue of King Louis the XIVth and matching XVIIth century buildings.

- Notre Dame des Victoires. XVIIth century church,

History
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There have been dozens of attempts by various regimes at all levels including the city, the state and the church to chase the ladies of "love for a price" away from the eastern end of the second arrondissement, but for some reason they always come back. Interestingly, the word "bordello" originates here from the boards that the women used to subdivide the rooms they rented in houses along the rue Saint Denis and others.

The press has had nearly as long a run in the neighbourhood just to the west, and several of France's major newspapers still maintain offices here.

- La Tour Jean-sans-Peur, 20 rue Étienne-Marcel (Métro: Étienne-Marcel). April-October wed-sun 1:30pm-6pm. One of the last remnants of medieval Paris outside of the 4th, this tower was once part of a castle called l'hôtel de Bourgogne €5, students: €3, guided tour: €8.

Do
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- Théâtre national de l'Opéra-Comique (National Opéra Comic Theatre), 5, rue Favart, +33 (0)1 42 44 45 40, [2]. The théâtre national de l'Opéra-Comique (National Opéra Comic Theatre) is an opera company and opera house.

Buy
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- Rue Montorgueil pedestrian area. Rue Montorgueil is like a scene from a movie. Closed to traffic, the street is a food-lovers delight, with cafes, bars and all types of fresh produce for sale in the open air.

The Galleries
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Prototypical of indoor shopping malls the Galleries got their start in 1786 when the Duke of Orleans realized that there was money to be made by renting out his cloistered garden to small shops. With their glass roofs and tiled floors they were a welcome respite to the newly emerging middle class shopper of the early 19th century, in the days before electric light and sidewalks.

A walking tour of the galleries can easily be accomplished in an hour or so, and is worthwhile even though they are long past their glory days. Start with La Gallerie Vivienne which is the best preserved of the galleries and whose décor has been maintained in authentic colors from the era. It's really the mosaic floor which is the star of the show. The shops are distinctly upscale, and all about conspicuous consumption: a wine seller, a tea shop, and a dealer in antique books are among the highlights.

The Passage Choiseul is a considerably more down-to-earth gallery, the passage mainly serves traders on their way to the Bourse, with the same class of shops that one might find in a pedestrian tunnel in New York or Chicago: a shoeshine stand, a newsstand, and little almost-but-not-quite fast-food restaurants.

You can find more galleries throughout the arrondissement, including the Passage des Panoramas, the Passages des Princes, and the Passage du Grand-Cerf.

Eat
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Budget
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- Exki, 9, Boulevard des Italiens (Métro: Opéra or Quatre-Septembre), +33 1 42 61 06 52 (info@exki.fr). High quality fast food with an emphasis on freshness and a slight bent for the exotic. A choice of soups and salads for around €4, plates for around €6.

- Bourgainville, 5, rue de la Banque (Métro: Bourse), +33 1 42 60 05 19. Mon-Sat 7am-9pm, but food is only served at lunch from 11:30 to 3:30. This comfy little bar offers down-home cooking from the Auvergne region, and after-work drinks for the financial set. sandwiches: €3, plates €12-15.

- Rani Mahal, 9 Rue Saint-Augustin, +33 1 42 97 53 24. This Indian restaurant is raved about by vegetarians, but serves meat as well.

Mid-Range
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- Café Etienne Marcel, 34, rue Etienne Marcel (Métro: Etienne Marcel), +33 1 45 08 01 03. A Costes brothers' creation but with lower prices than many of their other restaurants, the Etienne Marcel combines a creative menu with hip interior design and hip musical ambience. Vegetarians: The crispy risotto balls (risotto croustillant) are amazing, and pretty much impossible to make at home. 15-20 Euro

- Le Loup Blanc, 42 rue Tiquetonne (Métro: Etienne-Marcel), +33 1 40 13 08 35. 7pm-midnight nightly. The White Wolf is interesting not only for the fact that it's directly across the street from another restaurant called the Three Little Pigs, but also for the quality of the dishes in a style that the chef likes to call "world food". There is a vegetarian offering. dinner for around €25.

- Café Moderne, 40, rue Notre-Dame-des-Victoires (Métro: Bourse), +33 1 53 40 84 10. lunch: 12:15-2:30, dinner: 7:30-10:30. Menues ~ €30.

- Le Tambour, 41, Rue Montmartre, [3]. dinner until 3:30am !. The really distinguishing feature of the Tambour is its very late hours.

Splurge
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Drink
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- The Frog & Rosbif, 116 rue St. Denis, +33 1 42 36 34 73, [4]. As you probably know the English use the word "frog" as an ethnic slur for the French. You may not know that the word "Rosbif" is the French ethnic slur for the English. Well, it seems that there are mostly no hard feelings over a pint, or so the presence of this chain of 6 English pubs in the French capital would tend to suggest.

- Footsie, 10-12, Rue Daunou, +33 1 42 60 07 20. The drink prices fluctuate with supply and demand, just like at the nearby Bourse. Astute readers will note that the Footsie is an exchange index on the London stock exchange, which works because this is a more-or-less English style pub right down to the curry.

- Harry's New York Bar, 5, Rue Daunou, +33 1 42 61 71 14, [5]. Mon-Sun 10:30am-4am. Legend has it that Harry's New York Bar was the birthplace of the Bloody Mary invented by Fernand "Pete" Petiot, an American bartender, and was another Hemingway hangout.

- Café Noir, 65, Rue Montmartre (Métro: Sentier or Bourse), +33 1 45 08 42 35. A particularly fine example of a Paris café.

- La Cantine, 151 rue Montmartre (Passage des Panoramas, Métro: Grandes Boulevards), [6]. lundi au vendredi de 09h à 18h. A technology focused café and co-working space.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Bed and Breakfast Hostel, 42 rue Poissonnière (Métro: Bonne-Nouvelle), +33 1 40 26 83 08, [7]. checkin: Any time; checkout: 10am. It's basically a big apartment done up as a set of dorm rooms with girls on one side of the hall and boys on the other, but it's comfortable and the price is unbeatable. There is one tiny room for a couple. French, English, Spanish, Hebrew, and Arabic spoken. Dorm beds for €18 or private rooms available for groups of 4 or more, the showers cost €2.

- Hôtel des Boulevards, 10, rue de la Ville-Neuve, +33 1 42 36 02 29, [8]. doubles with sink: €40, with a shower: €55.

- Hôtel Sainte-Marie, 6, rue de la Ville-Neuve (Métro: Bonne-Nouvelle), +33 1 42 33 21 61, [9]. doubles with a sink: €40-54, with a shower and toilet: €60-70.

Mid-Range
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- Hôtel Bonne Nouvelle, 17 rue Beauregard (Métro: Bonne-Nouvelle), +33 1 45 08 42 42, [10]. Old World charm. doubles €60-70.

- Tiquetonne Hôtel, 6 rue Tiquetonne (Métro: Etinne-Marcel or Réaumur-Sébastopol), +33 1 42 36 94 58 (fax: +33 1 42 36 02 94). Closed during August, and between Christmas and New Year's Doubles with a sink €40.

- Hôtel Vivienne, 40, rue Vivienne (Métro: Bourse), +33 1 42 33 13 26.

- Tryp Hôtel Paris François, 3, boulevard Montmartre (Métro: Grandes-Boulevards), +33 1 42 33 51 53.

- Hôtel Paris France, 21, rue du louvre (Métro: bourse), +33 9 77 21 75 04‎, [11].

Splurge
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- Park Hyatt Paris - Vendome, 5 Rue de la Paix (Métro: Opéra), +33 1 58 71 12 34 (vendome@hyattintl.com), [12]. 5 star palace style hotel with a residential feel and personalised service. Within walking distance of Place Vendôme.

- Hôtel Victoires Opera, 56 rue de Montorgueil (Métro: Sentier), +33 1 42 36 41 08, [13].

- Hôtel Etats-Unis Opéra, 16, rue d'Antin, Paris, +33 1 80 02 30 04, [14].

Contact
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District 3rd Table of Contents

• Get in

By Métro

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Vacation Rentals

Budget

Mid-range

• Contact

Get in
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By Métro
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Station Arts et Metiers (3, 11) is probably the most convenient for the Musée des Arts et Metiers (obviously), but also within easy walking distance of all the attractions of the 3rd

Station Republique (3, 5, 8, 9, 11) is on the northern edge of the 3rd arrondissement, but superbly well-connected and therefore highly convenient

See
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- Musée Picasso, 5 rue de Thorigny (Métro: Chemin Vert), +33 1 42 71 25 21, [1]. 9:30AM to 6:00PM Wednesday to Monday and 9:30AM to 8:00PM on Thursdays, except during winter when closing time is always 5:30PM. Most of the works by Picasso and others which were in the master's possession at the time of his death are now on display here.

- Musée national des Arts et Métiers, 60 rue Réaumur (Métro : Arts et Métiers, Réaumur-Sébastopol, Bus 20, 38, 39, 47), [2]. open Tu-Su 10AM - 6PM, Th until 9.30PM, closed Mo and public holidays

- Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme, 71, rue du Temple, +33 1 53 01 86 60, [3].

- Musée de la Serrure, 1, rue de la Perle (Métro: Chemin-Vert), +33 1 42 77 79 62.

- Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8 rue Elzévir (Métro: Saint-Paul), +33 1 40 27 07 21, [4].

- Musée Carnavalet, 23 rue de Sévigné (Métro: Saint-Paul (ligne 1), Chemin vert (ligne 8), Bus 29, 69, 76, 96), +33 1 44 59 58 58 (fax: +33 1 44 59 58 11), [5]. open Tu-Su 10AM - 6PM, closed Mo and some public holidays, last tickets 5.30PM, tel 01 44 59 58 58, fax 01 44 59 58 10, free entry to the permanent collection - contained within two historic houses (hotels), the museum explores the history of Paris through objects in over 140 separate rooms

- Les Archives Nationales, [6].

Do
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Buy
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There's a lot of stuff to buy in the 3rd, mainly in the side streets of the upper Marais down near the 4th. Of particular interest are the large number of men's clothing stores on rue de Turenne.

- Au Réparateur de Bicyclettes, 44 Blvd de Sébastopol (Métro: Rambuteau), +33 1 48 04 51 19. Monday to Saturday 10AM to 8PM. If you would rather have a funkier bike than the ones you can rent from the RATP you would do a lot worse than checking out this little bicycle repair shop which also offers a wide range of new and used bikes. Their specialty in new bikes is Dutch and English bicycles, but some of the really nice ones are by the American company Scott. The used bikes start at around €75.

- Marché du Temple.

Eat
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- Le Petit Marché, 9 rue de Béarn (Métro: Chemin Vert), +33 1 42 72 06 67. Open noon to 2:00AM every day. This is one of those charming little Parisian bistros which is off on its own a little. The wait staff couldn't possibly be friendlier so this is a good place to bring people to show them how nice Parisian dining can be. The food is in a higher class than the price range, and the folks who work here have an easy collegial or even familial way with each other, and with frequent guests.

- Chez Jenny, 39, boulevard du Temple, +33 1 44 54 39 00. A super popular spot with young parisiens and parisiennes. The food must be good for it to be so consistently packed.

- Chez Janou, 2, Rue Roger Verlhomme, +33 1 42 72 28 41. Chez Janou has such a pretty location that it's worth an evening visit just for that. But the food and atmosphere are also amazing. Vegetarians be warned, the tortellini is not the token veggie dish; there isn't one. 18 Euro/person.

- Page 35, (4, rue du Parc Royal), +33 1 44 54 35 35. The name apparently refers to some section of some newspaper or another apparently with social listings. The carte features fantastic crêpe opportunities making this a must for lunch or lingering over a carafe or two of the house wine. €8

- Le Potager du Marais, 22 rue Rambuteau (Métro: Les Halles), +33 1 42 74 24 66. The Potager is a 100% vegetarian restaurant specialized in re-creating the French country dining experience without any of the meat. Menus for around 15 Euro.

- Camille, 24, rue des Francs-Bourgeois, +33 1 42 72 20 50. Fantastic fresh French food, Euro 40 per person, it is worth the wait

- Le Pamphlet, 38 rue Debelleyme, +33 1 42 72 39 24. Elaborate cuisine at very reasonable prices in a romantic fine dining setting. €50 per Person.

Drink
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- Les Enfants Rouge, 9, rue de Beauce, +33 1 48 87 80 61. This one is makes for another tough call between the Eat and Drink sections. It's a completely traditional french bistro with a popular bar in the evenings.

- Andy Wahloo, 69 rue des Gravilliers, +33 1 42 71 20 38. Andy Wahloo apparently means "I don't have anything" in Arabic. The Moroccan artist who owns this place certainly means it as a play on words having done the decor as a Moorish take on Andy Warhol.

- Café des Musées, 49, Rue de Turenne, +33 1 42 72 96 17. A bog standard and absolutely unpretentious bistro, the des Musées is a great place to cool your heels over a glass or two of red or white after stomping around the Marais all day.

- Les Arts et Métiers, 51 rue Turbigo, +33 1 48 87 83 25. An updated but otherwise standard Brasserie, the draw here is the crowd: young trendy locals love the place.

- Café Solo, 6 rue Dupuis. Located on a newly car-free street the Solo has a huge music collection which they are in the process of selling off at €6 per CD.

- The Quiet Man, 5, rue des Haudriettes, +33 1 48 04 02 77, [7]. This Irish pub has sessions and Irish music almost (but not quite) nightly. The atmosphere is tops for the genre.

- Léonard, 57 Rue De Turbigo (+33 1 48 04 07 55). If you like trendy décor this is your joint.Free Wi-Fi

- L'Attirail, 9, rue du Maire, +33 1 42 72 44 42. Cool bar/club with concerts ranging from Jazz Manouche to contemporary swing.

- La Villa Kéops, 58, boulevard Sébastopol, +33 1 40 27 99 92. The motif is Egyptian, while the clientele appears to be almost entirely gay men. Free WI-FI

- La Perle, rue Vieille du Temple / rue de la Perle. A small corner café-bar well known among the trendy people of Le Marais. Dozens of young and old people gather here every evening, especially on weekends. There are also few other cool bars to enjoy on the rue Vieille du Temple.

Sleep
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Vacation Rentals
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- Séjour à Paris, 45 Rue de Turenne (Métro: Chemin Vert, Saint Paul), +33 1 42 72 70 81 (info@sejouraparis.com), [8]. A variety of budget to luxury short-term vacation rentals from Alpha Marais Century 21, offering a self-catering apartment alternative to visitors. Over 20 different options in the Marais. Rentals starting at €95 per night.

Budget
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- Hôtel du Marais (My Hotel), 2bis, rue Commines (Métro: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart), +33 1 48 87 78 27. This little place has two names which can be a little confusing. It gets mixed reviews but some people love it and the location is hard to beat. 60€ Singles, 70-88€ doubles.

Mid-range
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- Austin's Arts et Metiers Hôtel, 6, rue Montgolfier (Métro: Arts-et-Métiers), +33 1 42 77 17 61. The rooms are small (as usual) and kept very clean. You are best off asking for something facing the front since the central courtyard is not very attractive. Particularly the 6th floor rooms are said to be quite nice. Singles for 92€, doubles 120€.

Contact
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District 4th Table of Contents

• Get in

By car

By metro

By bus

• Get around

• See

Landmarks

Museums and Galleries

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

• Contact

Get in
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The 4th is a very centrally located arrondissement, right between the Châtelet and Bastille areas, two of Paris' main transportation (metro, RER and bus) hubs.

By car
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Being such a touristy district it is very hard to find parking spaces. It's much easier to use the Metro.

By metro
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Several subway stations on lines 1, 4, 7 and 11 dot this area and are convenient for exploring its attractions.

Station Hôtel de Ville on Ligne 1 (La Defense/Chateau de Vincennes) and Ligne 11 (Chatelet/Mairie des Lilas) - Access from near the junction of Rue de Renard and Rue de Rivoli. Station Cité on Ligne 4 (Porte d'Orleans (General Leclerc)/Porte de Clignancourt) - Access off the Boulevard du Palais (infront of Palais de Justice on the Ile de Cité). Station St. Paul on Ligne 1 (La Defense/Chateau de Vincennes) - Access off the Rue de Rivoli. Station Rambuteau on Ligne 11 (Chatelet/Mairie des Lilas) - Access from near the junction of Rue de Renard and Rue Rambuteau. Station Pt. Marie on Ligne 7 (Villejuif - Louis Aragon / Mairie d'Ivry/La Courneuve - 8 mai 1945) - Access from Quai de l'Hotel de Ville Station Sully Morland on Ligne 7 (Villejuif - Louis Aragon / Mairie d'Ivry/La Courneuve - 8 mai 1945) - Access near the junction of Boulevard de Henri IV and Quai des Celestins.

By bus
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Unlike the metro, buses can be a great way of moving around and seeing the city's landscape, although you risk being caught in traffic. The most useful lines are 70, 72 and 74, which stop at the Hôtel de Ville, and lines 75 and 76, which run through Rue de Rivoli.

The neighbouring Châtelet and Bastille stations are also served by the Noctilian (night bus), running from half past midninght to 5.30 am. Lines 33, 34 and 132 run between them with no intermediate stops, but there are many others arriving and leaving from both to several destinations around town.

Get around
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Walk, walk and walk! This arrondissement is compact enough to be explored on foot and that's probably just what you'll want to do anyway. Otherwise, the metro may be not be too useful for covering short distances, but you may still want to use the bus line 76 for the Châtelet-Bastille itinerary or line 67 for Châtelet - Île St. Louis, especially if you have a card for multiple trips or a carte orange.

The RATP network has bicycles (vélos) for rent next to the Bastille station:

- Maison Roue Libre, 37, bd Bourdon, +33 1 54 54 97 10, [1]. 9AM-7PM. €10-15/day.

See
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Landmarks
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- Notre-Dame de Paris (Notre Dame Cathedral), Ile de la Cité 6, Place du Parvis Notre Dame F-75004 Paris (Metro: St Michel), +33 1 42 34 56 10 (info@cathedraleDeParis.com, fax: +33-1-40 51 70 98), [2]. 7:45AM-6:45PM. The early Gothic Cathédrale de Notre Dame (Our Lady) has a 12th century design but wasn't completed until the 14th. Still it is a good example of the development of the style, though the west or main portal is a bit unusual in its rigidity. Remember that this is an active church, there may even be a mass going on. Meanwhile anybody who's interested in history should check out the crypt, entered at the opposite end of the square, in which you can observe the foundation stones for buildings on the island going back to Roman times.

- Hôtel de Ville, Place de la Hôtel de Ville (Metro: Hôtel de Ville). Many feel that this, Paris' city hall, is one of the loveliest buildings in town. You might not get that from the front view, but try watching the light change on its roofs and towers during sunset from one of the cafés on the Ile de St. Louis, the Lutece for instance. Alternatively, go to the top floor of the Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville (BHV) department store opposite, on rue de Rivoli and walk up a flight of stairs to the roof terrace (terrasse), from which there is a dramatic view of both the roof of the Hôtel de Ville and the immediate surroundings and river. The present Hôtel de Ville replaced the 16th century original which was burned down during the Commune in 1871. A pastiche of its predecessor, but on a far larger scale, it was built by the the architects Ballu and Deperthes, chosen after a competition, and was mostly completed by 1882. The building is lavishly, and some would say heavy-handedly, decorated both inside and out, and finished in an arrestingly white stone, similar to that used for the even more eye-catching Sacre-Coeur basilica. The statue on the garden wall on the south side is of Etienne Marcel, the most famous holder of the post of 'prevôt des marchands' (provost of merchants) which predated the office of mayor. Marcel came to a sticky end, lynched in 1358 by an angry mob after trying to assert the city's powers a little too energetically. The current mayor, Bertrand Delanoë, a socialist and the city's first openly gay leader, shares some of Marcel's ambition and almost shared his fate. He was stabbed in the building in 2002 during the first all-night, city-wide Sleepless Night (Nuit Blanche) festival when the long inaccessible building's doors were thrown open to the public. But Delanoe recovered and has not lost his zeal for access, later converting the mayor' sumptuous private apartments into a creche for the children of municipal workers. The Hôtel de Ville was for many years the private fiefdom of Jacques Chirac, France's president before Sarkozy, and was the site of a scandal centering on both illegal jobs given to Chirac's party members and an immense entertainment budget. General de Gaulle greeted the crowds from a front window in 1944 when Paris was liberated from the Germans and Robespierre was shot in the jaw and arrested in the original building in 1794. Admirers of Hôtel de Ville's architecture will want to know that Ballu also built the Church of La Trinité in the 9th arrondissement and the belfry of the town hall of the 1st arrondissement, opposite the Louvre's east facade. Ballu also restored the Tour St Jacques (see below), which has recently been uncovered after restoration work lasting over a decade.

- Tour St Jacques A gothic church tower in a square 150 meters to the west of the Hôtel de Ville was restored by Ballu, is all that remains of Eglise Saint-Jacques-de-la-Boucherie, which was the meeting place in Paris for Pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compestela, as such it is included on the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.

- la Bastille, (Metro: Bastille). Enter Bastille station through any entrance or on any train and then make your way to the Bobigny/Pablo Picasso bound platform. All that's left of the fortress whose front steps used to lead up from place de la Bastille are some foundation stones which you can see while waiting for a north bound train on this metro platform. There are maps and explanations showing where the fortress used to be relative the place and surroundings (basically the location of the old front steps are now occupied by Café des Phares).

- Le Mémorial de la Shoah (The Holocaust Memorial), 17 rue Geoffroy l’Asnier, +33 1 42 77 44 72, [3]. Mo-We,Fr,Su 10AM-6PM; Th 10AM-10PM. Opened in January 2005, this Holocaust Memorial comprises a major documentation centre and a wall bearing 76,000 names of Jews deported from France to the Nazi camps between 1942-1944. Includes an archive of a million artifacts, including 55,000 photographs. Excursions are run from the Memorial to French internment camp sites such as Drancy. Admission free.

Museums and Galleries
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- Centre Georges Pompidou, Place George Pompidou (Metro: Rambuteau), [4]. We-Mo 11AM-10PM. Those who are unfamiliar with conceptual art sometimes don't know quite what to expect, or how to approach it. Such travelers should rest assured that the curators at the Pompidou Centre have assembled a marvelous introduction consisting of mostly approachable works which delight, amuse, and entertain. The art is far from the only reason for a visit, as the building also contains a vast public library and a fine restaurant (run by the Costes brothers) on the roof. In fact the place is literally surrounded by some of the nicest sidewalk cafés in the city, in its superb location between the car-free above ground part of Forum Les Halles and the Marais art district. €8-10.

- Maison de Victor Hugo, 6 Place des Vosges (Metro: Saint-Paul or Bastille, Bus 20,29,65,69,96), +33 1 42 72 10 16 (fax: +33 01 41 72 06 64). Daily 10AM-6PM. The house in which the famous French novelist Victor Hugo once lived.

- Hôtel de Sully, 62 rue Saint-Antoine (Metro: Saint-Paul or Bastille, Bus 69, 76, 96), +33 01 (fax: +33 01), [5]. Daily 9AM-7PM. Built in 1625, the Hotel de Sully is an interesting house with some sculptures in a beautiful courtyard. The house features special exhibitions so check listings when in Paris.

Do
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Most of the things to do in the 4th are covered in other sections of this guide, with the main thing to do being to explore. Of particular interest is the Île Saint Louis (complete with having an ice-cream or sorbet from Berthillon), the Hôtels Particuliars, and the Pletzle particularly rue des Rosiers and the area around Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine.

Buy
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Over the last decade, the rue des Francs-Bourgeois has become a shopping destination for clothes and accessories. Go during the July or January soldes and pick up some Anne-Fontaine outfits, Camper shoes, or trendy mens clothing at Melchoir at bargain basement prices.

- Marché aux Fleurs et Marché aux Oiseaux (Flower Market and Bird Market), Place Louis Lepine (Metro: Cité, Saint Michele or Châtelet). On the north side of the Ile de la Cité, the main island at the center of Paris you'll find a burgeoning daily flower market, where you can buy just about any type of flower, and oddly enough a range of exotic tropical birds.

- Opéra BD, 2 rue des Tournelles (Metro: Bastille), +33 1 44 54 95 12, [6]. Daily 11AM-midnight. Comics (Bandes Dessinées) are a serious art form in France and even regular corporate bookstores have a good selection, but it's much better to look for them where they are really appreciated, in one of Paris' many private BD dealers. This one is friendly, well stocked, and keeps late hours so pay them a visit if you would like to pick up a copy of one of the many volumes of Lone Wolf and Cub in French.

- Mariage Frères, 30 & 35 rue de Bourg-Tibourg (Métro: Hotel de Ville). If you love tea, you'll love this old salon de the in the Marais.

- B.H.V. (Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville), 52 rue de Rivoli (Metro Hôtel de Ville), +33 1 42 74 90 00, [7]. Is a general store with most of everything : clothes, perfumes, furniture, you name it --it's especially famous for its basement section, dedicated to handywork & DIY --think of it as a small Home Depot in a basement... though with French hardware and house and garden accessories that look distinctive in other settings.

Eat
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- Le Coude Fou, 12, rue du Bourg-Tibourg (Metro Hotel de Ville), +33 1 42 77 15 16, [8]. Open till midnight seven days a week, this place is a jewel. It is a real local neighbourhood bistro in the middle of the high rent Marais. The food is good, and the wine selection is great. During the week it offers a €17 prix fixe two-course lunch (including two glasses of wine) and a €25 three-course dinner (does not include wine).

If you are looking for a snack or a quick lunch you could do a lot worse than any one of the kosher falafel stands along the Rue des Rosiers near Place des Vosges. If you are on the island though, a closer choice is just to hop across the little pedestrian bridge to the Ile de St. Louis for lunch at any one of the many charming cafés.

For dinner or a sit-down lunch there are over a thousand restaurants in the 4th catering to all tastes - many more deserve to be listed than this or any other guide has space for. There are nice places, trendy or traditional throughout the district, but most of the really fancy bistros are clustered around the Northwest corner of Place de Bastille. You'll really enjoy walking around and checking out the menus, especially during the week when only the most exclusive places require a reservation. That said, here are some ideas:

- Le Loir dans la Théière, 3, rue des Rosiers (Metro: Saint Paul), +33 1 42 72 90 61. A highly recommended and quaint little teashop, well worth a visit especially for brunch, which at €15.50 is a great value for the quantity, quality, and ambiance.

- La Perla, 26 rue François Miron (Metro: Hôtel de Ville), +33 1 42 77 59 40, [9]. Daily 11AM-2AM. There is good Mexican food to be had within a stone's throw of the Ile de St. Louis. They mix a decent margarita too! You'll pay about €10 for a plate ordered à la carte.

- l'Excuse, 14, rue Charles-V (Metro: Sully-Morland), +33 1 42 77 98 97.

- Ciao, 7, rue Simon-Lefranc (Metro: Rambuteau), +33 1 42 71 52 07.

- Chez Marianne, 2, Rue des Hospitalières-Saint Gervais (Metro: Saint-Paul), +33 1 88 64 15 22. Found at the corner of rue des Hospitalières-Saint Gervais, and the rue Rosiers, Chez Marianne --like the many falafel stands in the Pletzle-- serves excellent sandwiches out of a walk up window, but unlike some of the others also has an attractive dining room and a truly lovely terrace where you can enjoy a full range of Jewish/middle-eastern dishes. Falafel out of the window is €4; in the dining room you'll pay around €15 for a vegetarian menu, or up to €22 for the most expensive dishes à la carte..

- Pitchi Poï, 9 place du Marché Sainte Catherine (Metro: Saint Paul), +33 1 42 77 46 15. Essentially yiddische cuisine with a nice choice of vodkas; the terrace is great when the weather is fine; the whole place du Marché Sainte Catherine is covered with restaurants' tables in summer.

- Brasserie Bofinger, 3 rue de la Bastille (Metro: Bastille), +33 1 42 72 87 82, [10]. A beautiful, historical décor in Art Nouveau style (see the ceiling upstairs); good Alsatian cuisine : choucroute, kuglopf, etc. plus good classic cuisine de brasserie.

- Un Piano sur le Trottoir, 7 rue des Francs Bourgeois, +33 1 42 77 91 91 (fax: +33 1 48 87 36 23). The restaurant is at the end of a long passage. At the front is just a small room with an upright piano and a couple of post-Impressionist paintings. The decor is bizarre: stone and bright purple drywall; two nice chandeliers, and a discoball; a multicoloured curtain with spotlights pointed at it. For lunch it is a traditional place with solid French cooking. €25-35.

- Amorino, 47 rue Saint Louis en L’Ile, +33 1 42 78 07 75 (marais@amorino.fr), [11]. The oldest of the many boutiques operated by this this gelato (italian ice cream) maker.

- Pain Vin Fromages, 3 rue Geoffrey l'Angevin (Métro Rambuteau), +33 1 42 74 07 52. It's all about cheese, with a selection of Swiss dishes, and others.

Drink
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In the 4th it's really hard to say whether a given place is somewhere to Eat eat or somewhere to Drink. Most of the places on this list serve dinner, and some serve lunch as well.

- The Auld Alliance Scottish Pub, 80 rue Francois Miron (Metro St Paul), +33 1 48 04 30 40, [12]. Open daily, last orders 1.30 am. Friendly staff and customers help create a welcoming atmosphere at the original Scottish pub in Paris. Excellent food is served every day including a hearty brunch. In late 2008 the menu promised a 'Scottish Ploughmans' that was 'coming soon' but this project appears to have been hit by R&D snags or the global downturn and has been quietly dropped. Instead the pub is selling quality British crisps at just 50 cents per packet, even smokey bacon flavour. A wide selection of whisky is on offer. Sporting events are shown on eight large television screens. Regular darts and pool competitions take place and Monday night is quiz night.

- Café des Phares, 7 place de la Bastille (Métro: Bastille), +33 1 42 72 04 70. Open every day from 7AM-3AM. Since 1992 this otherwise very attractive but fairly standard Parisien café has been host to a lively discussion of contemporary philosophy and attendant issues every Sunday night. There's a political discussion too, on the first Thursday of each month.

- Café Lutèce, 33 quai de Bourbon (Metro: Pont-Marie). This little bistro would be totally unremarkable if it weren't for the location, on the northern bank of Ile Saint-Louis, where you can watch the colors of the sunset light play over the towers of the Hôtel de Ville as you enjoy a glass or three of beer or house wine, or maybe a cognac.

- Le Lizard Lounge, 18 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (Metro: Hôtel-de-Ville), +33 1 42 72 48 34. See Stolly's below

- Le Petit Fer A Cheval, 30 rue Vieille-du Temple (Metro: Saint-Paul), +33 1 42 72 47 47.

- La Chaise au Plafond, 10, rue du Trésor (Metro: Saint-Paul), +33 1 42 76 03 22. The Chaise is one of those truly warm and welcoming cafés. The proprietor usually makes an effort to spend at least a couple of minutes at each table, and somehow manages to remember visitors even years later.

- Les Etages, 35, rue Vieille du Temple (Metro: Saint-Paul), +33 1 42 78 72 00.

- Stolly's, 7 , rue Cloche-Perce (Metro: Saint-Paul), +33 1 42 76 06 76. See Lizard Lounge above.

- Caféothèque de Paris, 52, rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, Paris 4ème (Metro: Pont Marie), +33 1 52 01 83 84, [13]. Mon-Sun 9.30am-7.30pm. Coffee in Paris is usually found to be lacking, but not in this mini temple to coffee. A gem tucked into a backstreet by the river in Le Marais roasts their own beans from around the world and has a small laid-back cafe area with armchairs. Staff are passionate about great coffee, not just a scaldingly hot coffee! They have some cakes and wine, and speak spanish and english.

- Dome Du Marais, 53 Bis Rue De Francs Bourgeois 75004 Pairs, FR, 01 42 74 54 17, [14].

- Wake Up Paris, 31 boulevard Henri IV (Metro: Bastille). A wonderful little bar with a Brazilian tilt that serves excellent caipirinhas. The staff is extremely friendly and eager to strike up a conversation, especially about cachaça, the Brazilian liqueur that forms the base of their signature drink. It's a wonderful spot for catching a football match as well.

Sleep
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There are tons of hotels, hostels, furnished apartments and guest houses in the 4th. Even still you should book ahead if possible as there is also tons of demand.

- Hotel de Neuve ***, 14, rue Neuve Saint Pierre 75004 Paris, 00 33 1 44 59 28 50, [15]. A charming contemporary design hotel in an excellent location.

Budget
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- MIJE, 6, rue de Fourcy, 12 rue des Barres, and 11 rue du Fauconnier (Metro: St. Paul), +33 1 42 74 23 45, [16]. Consistently given the highest possible ratings this organization actually runs three hostels in the Marais. The only possible drawback is that they have an afternoon lockout for cleaning. The MIJE Maubuisson on rue des Barres gets the nod of the three for being in an historic Tudor-style building. Dorm-room beds start at €27 at all three places. Single rooms are 42€.

- Hôtel Rivoli, 44 rue Rivoli (Metro: Hotel de Ville), +33 1 42 72 08 41. In the heart of the city with cheap doubles, starting from 30€. Terrific view from 5th floor single room

- Grand Hôtel du Loiret, 8, rue des Mauvais Garçons (Metro: Hôtel-de-Ville), +33 1 48 87 77 00. A good value for the price and location. The basic rooms start at 45€, or €60 with a shower.

- Grand Hôtel Jeanne-d'Arc, 3, rue de Jarente (Metro: Saint-Paul), +33 1 48 87 62 11, [17]. In the calmer part of the Marais, not far from Place de Bastille and Place des Vosges, this little hotel fills up well in advance, so you'll need to book ahead. €57 for a basic room.

Mid-Range
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- Hôtel du Septième Art, 20 rue Saint-Paul (Metro: Saint-Paul), +33 1 44 54 85 00 (fax: +33 1 42 77 69 10). A little place done up in all black and white in homage to the cinema, the 7th art offers a good value on comfortable rooms, and polite, quality service. Single rooms start at 75€.

- Hôtel Hospitel, 1, Place du Parvis Notre Dame-Galerie B2, 6e étage (Metro: Cité), +33 1 44 32 01 00, [18]. You can't beat the location of this no-star but midrange offering on the Ile de la Cité located on the 6th floor of the Hospital Hôtel-Dieu a functioning Hospital which is also classified as an official historical monument, Hôspitel offers quite a bit of service and comfort. Single for €88.50, double for €99.50.

- Hôtel Bastille Speria, 1 rue de la Bastille (Metro: Bastille), +33 1 42 72 04 01 (fax: +33 1 42 72 56 38), [19]. This lovely little three star is at the far end of the 4th bumped right up against Place de Bastille. The place is inviting and the rooms are quite comfy and air conditioned. The location is good especially if you are interested in fine dining, as the place is surrounded by some of the better bistros on the right bank.. €95 for a single.

- Hotel Caron de Beaumarchais, 12, rue Vieille-du-Temple (Metro: Saint-Paul or Hôtel-de-Ville), +33 1 42 72 34 12, [20]. These are are of the expected (small) size for Paris though elegantly appointed in 18th century style. Equipment includes air-conditioning. Tea and coffee at the reception. The 'courtyard' is a two-by-two meter light shaft, so rooms facing it have no view, and are quite dark on the ground and first floors. A simple request to avoid them on booking will suffice. The staff speak English well. Single for €137.

- Hôtel de Lutece, 65, rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Ile (Metro: Pont-Marie), +33 1 43 26 23 52, [21]. €158.

- Hotel Notre Dame, 19 Rue Maître Alberte, 09 77 19 84 17, [22]. Located in a typical and quiet little street, looking out on the Seine and facing Notre-Dame Cathedral. Every room is uniquely styled and decorated and equipped with a complete, marble bathroom.

- Jardins de Paris Marais-Bastille, 14, rue Neuve-Saint-Pierre (Metro: Bastille), +33 1 44 59 28 50, [23]. Singles for €120, doubles for €135.

- Hôtel Central, 5, rue saint Paul (Metro: Hôtel de Ville), +33 6 71 24 76 98.

- Hôtel de la Place des Vosges, 12 rue de Birague (Metro: Bastille or Saint-Paul), +33 9 77 21 78 62 (fax: +33 1 42 72 02 64), [24]. The rooms are tiny, as is the staircase, but they are also pristine, some of the rooms have been renovated recently with shiny new marble bathrooms. The staff also gets high marks for professionalism and for general helpfulness. 101-140€.

- Hôtel de Nice, 42bis, rue de Rivoli (Metro: Hôtel de Ville), [25]. Just two blocks from the Ile de St. Louis, the Hôtel de Nice offers tiny but lovely rooms. Ask for one with a balcony, some of which have a view of Notre Dame. The furniture is hand-painted with a floral theme which continues throughout the room. The area can be a little loud though, so if you want peace and quiet look elsewhere. Singles for €60.

- Hôtel Rivoli, 44 rue de Rivoli (Metro: Hôtel de Ville), +33 1 42 72 08 41. Great location next to the Hôtel Rivoli. Can be noisy if you have a room which faces the street. Double for €48.

Contact
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- Bibliothèque Publique d'Information. This library in Centre Pomidou offers Internet for free (40 minutes). It's very popular so expect a queue for getting in and at least one hour waiting time to use the computers. The entrance to the museum isn't the same as the one to the rest of Centre Pomidou but located around the back of the building.

District 5th Table of Contents

• Get in

By Métro

By bus

• See

Landmarks

Museums and Galleries

Religious buildings

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
toc

By Métro
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Line 7 connects the 5th with the 1st, 4th, and 13th, stopping at Jussieu, Monge and Censier/Daubenton.

Line 10 cuts east-west across the northern and most touristed part of the arrondissement stopping at Cluny/la Sorbonne, Maubert/Mutualité, Cardinal Lemoine, and Jussieu with terminus just east of the 5th's border with the 13th at Gare d'Austerlitz.

The RER-B coming all the way from Airport Charles de Gaulle stops at St. Michel and Luxembourg.

By bus
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27, 87, 86, 24, 21, 47, 87, 84

Many tourists rely on the subway system to get around. However, while you are there to visit, why not see the city from the bus? Unlike other big cities, the buses in Paris are a first class ride for the same price. They are very clean and usually arrive every 7-10 minutes. The system is very easy to understand (there are big maps and the lines are color coded) and you can ask anyone on the bus to tell you where you should stop. Buses typically go faster than other cars too because they benefit from special bus lanes on all main avenues and boulevards throughout the city.

See
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Landmarks
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- Panthéon, Place du Panthéon ('Métro Cardinal Lemoine), +33 1 43 54 34 51. Daily 10AM to 8PM. Originally conceived by Louis XV as a grand neo-Classical church honoring St. Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris. After the Revolution, the building was converted into a mausoleum for the great philosophers, military, artists, scientists and heroes of the French Republic. Occupants of the crypt include Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Zola, the Curies and, most recently, Alexandre Dumas (reinterred here in 2002). The view from the dome (206 steps) is marvelous, check tour departure time at the information desk. A fascinating reconstruction of Foucault's Pendulum also hangs within the Panthéon. 7.5€ (''4.8€ reduced rate, museum card accepted'')..

- Jardin des Plantes. The Paris Botanical Garden, founded as the royal medicinal garden in 1626 by King Louis XIII's doctor, contains over 10,000 species. The grounds also include a small zoo known as La Ménagerie, and the Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle, which includes the recently renovated Grande Galerie de l'Evolution (where you can see thousands of naturalized animals from all over the world) and the 'Galerie de paléontologie et d'anatomie comparée' (same thing but with skeletons).

- Arenes de Lutece, 47 rue Monge et rue de Navarre (Métro: Place Monge, Jussieu, Cardinal Lemoine). open 8AM - 5.30PM (winter), 8AM - 10PM (summer). An ancient Roman theater, the only surviving above-ground ruins of the Gallo-Roman era in Paris (ancient Lutetia, French Lutèce) apart the nearby Thermes de Cluny. The theater could hold approximately 15,000 spectators and measures some 132 m x 100 m. Built sometime in the 2nd century AD, the location of the actor's dressing room, the platform of the stage and lapidary remains can still be seen. The remains were rediscovered in 1869, when new streets were being built - an excavation was subsequently ordered in 1883. The theater has been preserved as a quiet archaeological park removed from the bustle of Parisian streets entry free.

Museums and Galleries
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- Musée du Moyen Age, 6 place Paul Painlevé (Métro Cluny), +33 1 53 73 78 16, [2]. Open daily 9:15AM to 5:15PM. Housed in a 15th century abbey, alongside 1st century Gallo-Roman baths, the museum has an extensive collection of medieval art and artifacts. Highlights include the medieval "Lady and the Unicorn" tapestries, a papal golden rose and the original heads from the facade of Notre Dame. 7.5€ (5.5€ reduced rate, free under 18, museum card accepted).

- Musée de l'Institut du Monde Arabe, 1 rue des Fossés-St Bernard, +33 1 40 51 38 38, [3]. open Tue - Sun 10AM - 6PM closed Mondays and 1 May. The building has a freely accessible rooftop which allows for a beautiful bird's-eye view of the northern half of Paris.

- Musée Curie, 11 rue Pierre et Marie Curie (Métro: Cardinal Lemoine (ligne 10), Place Monge (ligne 7), RER-B: Luxembourg), +33 1 42 34 67 49, [4]. open Mon-Fri 1.30PM - 5PM except bank holidays and during August. This charming scientific museum preserves the offices and laboratories of Pierre and Marie Curie, pioneers in the discovery of radioactivity, their instruments, equipment and furniture arranged as it was during their critically important research. Guided tours in English available. free.

Religious buildings
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- Eglise Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, (Métro: Cluny-Sorbonne / Saint-Michel).

- Eglise Saint-Étienne-du-Mont, pl Ste Geneviève. St. Geneviève was responsible for saving Paris from the Huns in 451 and her shrine in the church has been a popular place of pilgrimage ever since. The church as it stands dates from between 1492 and 1626 and is a mix of Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles. A unique feature is the Renaissance rood screen, the sole survivor in the city.

- Eglise Saint Nicolas du Chardonnet, 23 rue des Bernardins. A controversial church serving as de facto headquarters of the arch-traditionalist Society of Saint Pius X, who occupied the church in 1977 and have ignored subsequent eviction orders.

- Grande Mosquée de Paris, 2 bis place du puits de l'Ermite (Grand Mosque of Paris), +33 1 45 35 97 33. Founded in 1926, it was meant to show appreciation for Muslim help in fighting the Germans. The café serves excellent mint tea and North African food.

Do
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The 5th arrondissement is the perfect place to wander and people watch. If you are brave and have any French skills, engage a student in conversation - many if addressed in French will be more than happy to talk about politics and social issues in English.

- Latin Quarter Curios Photo Tour, Fountain St Michel (Metro St. Michel), +33 1 45 51 53 80, [6]. 4. From humble church to towering cathedral, Notre-Dame is the world-famous jewel in the crown of the Ile de la Cite, the original Paris before the city outgrew its island boundaries. But this whole area is steeped in history and secrets just waiting to be discovered. We will enter the moving and visually stunning monument to the deportation. We will roam the banks of the river and the twisting backstreets rich in atmosphere and echoes of the past. And we will investigate the legendary Latin Quarter with out cameras on an Adventure thru the Lens. 125euro pp.

Buy
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The lower end of rue Mouffetard as it runs away from the Panthéon hosts an ongoing fruit and vegetable market, and is lined with food and wine shops of all kinds.

- La Fontaine aux Vins, 107 rue Mouffetard (Métro: Censier Daubenton), +33 1 43 31 41 03 (fax: +33 1 45 34 51 47). One of several wine shops along the lower part of the street, La Fontaine is a good example because the wines are of high quality, but barely more pricy than the ones you'll find in the grocery store. They offer tastings outside on the street, and delivery if you buy a case. The prices start at around 4€ per bottle which you might note is around what you'll pay for a glass in a bar.

- Gepetto & Vélos, 46 rue Daubenton (Métro: Censier Daubenton), +33 1 43 37 16 17. OK, so if you are just staying for a day or two it makes no sense whatever to buy a bike, but if you are going to be around for a while having your own might just feel better than renting one from the RATP. If so, you could do a lot worse than Gepetto, where you'll find a range of real bikes rather than the usual cheap MTB you'd see at a sporting goods store. The prices start at around €100 for a sturdy used 3-speed city bike.

- l'Epée de Bois, 12 rue de l'Epée de Bois (Métro: Pl. Monge), +33 1 43 31 50 18. Mondays 1:30PM to 7:30PM, Tuesday to Saturday 10:30AM to 7:30PM, Sunday 11:00AM to 1:30PM. The name of the store and the street it's on both translate to the "wooden sword", and you find those here along with any number of wooden toys for children ages 1 to 10. They also have books and games.

- Shakespeare and Co., 37 rue de la Bûcherie, [7]. Open Daily 12PM - 12AM, cash sales only. Probably one of the most eccentric bookstores you will ever visit, this must-see was established in 1951 by George Whitman: three rambling floors literally crammed with books, both new and (mainly) second-hand. The bedding shoved amongst the shelves is for the (largely American) ex-pats (called tumbleweeds) who doss down amongst the books at night. It is also the sister store to City Lights in San Francisco.

Eat
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This guide uses the following price ranges for dinner typical set menu (starter+main+dessert whenever available):

Budget

below €15

Mid-range

€15-25

Splurge

over €25

A lot of travellers arriving in the 5th from across the river are lured into the restaurants and fast-food outlets between rue St Jacques and boulevard St Michel (in Rue de la Huchette, rue Saint-Séverin). This area may be handy for a quick snack (say, a "Greek sandwich" in a pita), but the quality of restaurants there is not so good - beware especially of restaurants advertising typical French specialties. A similar phenomenon occurs around rue Mouffetard, where many students from the Jussieu Campus and the École normale supérieure have snacks; most of the "French" restaurants are overpriced tourist traps.

Budget
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- Le Grenier de Notre Dame, 18 rue de la Bûcherie (Métro: St. Michel), +33 1 43 29 98 29. A vegetarian restaurant with a great selection including a number of vegan items, the Grenier is, as the name suggests, just around the corner from the cathedral. The English-speaking staff is super friendly. Dinner ''menus'' start at 12 €.

- Jardin des Pâtes, 4 rue Lacépède (Métro: Monge), +33 1 43 31 50 71. Open every day from noon to 2:30PM and 7PM to 11PM.. The range of pasta dishes is just fantastic at this cute little restaurant tucked away near the Jardin des Plantes. Although some meat dishes are served there is a huge range of choice for vegetarians as well. Menus around 12€.

Mid-range
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- Ambiance De L'Inde, 12 Rue Thouin, +33 1 40 46 03 76 (battish@gmail.com), [8]. Daily. Indian/Pakistani with many vegan dishes.

- Le Volcan, 10, rue Thouin (Near to rue Descartes), +33 1 46 33 38 33, [9]. Tuesday-Sunday 12PM-11PM. Serves delicious traditional French dishes in a welcoming environment. Excellent service. The set meals are very varied and represent superb value. 25€ per person without wine.

- Chez Ernest, 31, rue de la parcheminerie (Métro Cluny-Sorbonne). Very nice little restaurant in a small side-street. Typical and less typical French food. Complete dinner, including beverages, for €25.

- Les cinq saveurs d'Anada, 72 rue du cardinal Lemoine, +33 1 43 29 58 54, [10]. Macrobiotic and vegetarian specialties, cooked mainly in the French tradition but with some fun additions from around the world. Lunch menu:€12 or €16; dinner plates for €14-€15.

- Kootchi, 40, Rue du Cardinal Lemoine (metro: Cardinal Lemoine), 01 44 07 20 56. Mon-Sat: 12pm-2:30pm, 7pm-10:30pm. Afghan cuisine, small and cosy, food is not too spicy, good value for money. Lunch menu: €9.20 or €12.20, dinner menu €15.50.

- Le Petit Prince de Paris, 12, rue de Lanneau (close to Pantheon), +33 1 43 54 77 26, [11]. Open every evening from 7:30PM to midnight (to 12:30AM Fri and Sat). A notably Parisian restaurant experience, but with friendly and warm service. Traditional French food (try the duck with feathers) and deliciously complicated sauces. Relaxed and uncrowded, but reserve in the morning for a weekend night. Reasonable wine selection. Set menu (starter+main) 16€-23€; extra 6€ for dessert.

Splurge
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- Le Petit Pontoise, 9, rue de Pontoise - 75005 (Parallel with the separation of lle de la cite and lle de la Saint-Louis), 01 43 29 25 20. Open lunch and dinner. Nice restaurant with a homely feel, on a quiet street. Popular enough to have an 'also' section next door. Expatriate Americans mingle with native Parisians, and a few tourists. The food is of the local French standard (i.e. high) but does included vegetables, which many other non-tourist restaurants do not. The balance and spicing of the sauces is the main draw. The pig's cheeks stew is notably delicious - and one of the cheaper items to boot! Main courses for 18-28 euro, starters and desserts 7-11 euro, wine 20 euro/bottle up..

- La Tour d'Argent, 15-17 quai de la Tournelle (Métro: Cardinal Lemoine or St Paul), +33 1 43 54 23 31, [12]. For fat wallets La Tour d'Argent is a must-see. One of the oldest restaurants in Paris, located along the iSeine, it is famous for its duck recipes.

Drink
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- Café Universel, 267 rue Saint Jaques (Métro: Luxembourg), +33 1 43 25 74 20. This mostly anglophone joint presents jazz artists from around the globe on its tiny stage. There's never a cover, and the atmosphere is always fantastic with the huge collection of postcards etc. on the stage wall, and the muical statue of liberty in the front. Please do buy a CD from the artist or toss a couple of Euro into the hat.

- Polly Magoo, 3, rue du Petit Pont (Métro: Saint Michel). Open noon to 5AM, Sunday to Thursday, and to 8AM on Friday and Saturday.. This bar bears no relation, beyond the name, to the legendary, sleazy, and legendarily sleazy bar which was further south up the street at 11 rue Saint Jacques and was replaced by a 'boutique hotel' in 2002. Jim Morrison was a regular at the original bar, but the owners of the new version would be unlikely to let anyone that shabby come in. The Gaudi-esque bar and blue mosaic storefront make this bar a must see as well as a must sit for those who like their bars to come with a theme. They have a ''formule'': (1 tapas, 1 beer) is 8 euro..

- The Fifth Bar, 62 rue Mouffetard (Métro: Place Monge). Named for the arrondissement, or maybe a measure of whiskey, this little hole-in-the-wall caters to a mixed anglophone expatriate crowd, with a mix of local students and (in tourist season) backpackers. Tuesdays and Thursdays are student nights with happy-hour prices all night with a student ID. Depending on season, American sports often play on the television. Lager pints are 3.50€ at happy hour, 5€ after 20h (except for student nights.).

- Le Vieux Chêne, 69 rue Mouffetard (Métro: Place Monge). Just down the way from the fifth on the left is another hole-in-the-wall, this one dating from the 18th century. It was named after its sign, a bas relief of an old oak tree (vieux chene), which was around 250 years when it was chiseled off early in 2005 by workmen 'restoring' the facade of the building. The selection of beers etc. is good and the crowd is mostly students. Expect to pay around 4€ for a pint. There is a minuscule dance floor in the atmospheric and sweaty cellar below. On Tuesday nights, there is live music and the musicians take requests from the crowd - playing classic French and American songs.

- Le Piano Vache, 8, Rue Laplace (Métro: Maubert/Mutualité), +33 1 46 33 75 03. A legendary part of student life in the real Latin quarter this dark barroom has walls covered with posters and photos of bands, but also a wall covered with passport-type photos of regulars past and present. At night things get going with DJs, bands of all styles, and on Tuesday nights, a pop-rock jam session. Beer: 3.50€, mixed drinks 6.50€, coffee 1€..

- The Bombardier, Place du Panthéon (Métro: Maubert/Mutualité). Great pub in a prime location right in front of beautiful St-Etienne-du-Mont church and the Panthéon. One of the few pubs in Paris where you can get cask ales, and they also make cocktails. Food served at lunchtime (good pub food, ie. Bangers & mash, English breakfasts, fish & chips, etc.). Also a great place to watch sporting events like English Premier League and the Six-Nations tournament as the pub draws a mixed crowd of French and English regulars with expats and tourists thrown into the mix.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Young and Happy Hostel, 80 Rue Mouffetard (Métro: Place Monge), +33 1 47 07 47 07 (fax: +33 1 47 07 22 24), [13]. A hit with young travellers, the young and happy exists to save you money. The rooms are just as basic as can be, but clean unlike the average one-star. The location is hard to beat if you are looking for a nice evening out. The risk though is that if you party too much you won't see much else of Paris. Oh, English is the lingua-franca here. A dorm-room bed costs 20€, while a double goes for 23 €..

- Hôtel du Commerce, 14, rue de la Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève (Métro: Maubert-Mutualité), +33 1 43 54 89 69 (fax: +33 1 43 54 76 09), [14]. The rooms are tiny, but cheap, especially for the location, just a stone's throw from Notre Dame. The hotel provides a shared kitchen area if you would like to save even more money by cooking some of the time, there are markets both nearby and over the hill on rue Mouffetard, so this is a good idea for budget travellers. Although they do have exactly one (pricier) room equipped with a shower, the rest of the rooms share a brand-new shower facility near the reception. Singles without start at 26€. Use of the showers costs 2€..

- Hôtel Esmerelda, 4 rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre (Métro: Saint-Michel), +33 1 43 54 19 20. An excellent example of what happens when a "find" hotel is discovered by the travel guides, the Esmerelda has lost none of it's charm but the prices have crept up into nearly the two-star range, and you'll have to book ahead by at least a couple of months in the high season or around the winter holidays. On the plus side the place really does deserve the attention (and solid bookings), as it really is super charming, the welcome couldn't possibly be better and it's still on the cheap side. Try not to trip over the ample knick-knacks in your room, which will likely be named after a French singing star. A basic room is 65€, doubles are 80 to 95..

- Port-Royal-Hôtel, 8 Boulevard de Port-Royal (Métro: Les Gobelins), +33 1 43 31 70 06, [15]. Great hotel right next to the Rue Mouffetard and its market. Whimsical rooms decorated in rich floral patterns. Prices range from 39-87€ depending on size and level of amenities. Average room rate is around 55€. Ask for a room with a bidet..

Mid-range
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- Hôtel Familia, 11 Rue des Ecoles (Métro: Maubert-Mutualité or Cardinal-Lemoine), +33 1 43 54 55 27 (fax: +33 1 43 29 61 77), [16]. As with the Minerve (below), each of the rooms in this family run two-star is decorated with a unique medievalist mural by the artist Gérald Pritchard. This combined with the antique furniture gives the place some real character. If you are lucky enough to get a room with a balcony (ask!) you can enjoy your breakfast overlooking the courtyard (or the street). Basic rooms start at 73.50 €, doubles start at 90..

- Hôtel Minerve, 13 Rue des Ecoles (Métro: Maubert-Mutualité or Cardinal-Lemoine), +33 1 43 26 26 04 (fax: +33 1 44 07 01 96), [17]. While not quite the bargain it was a couple of years ago when it was (erroneously) classified as a two-star, the properly three-star Minerve is a family run operation (the same family as the Familia next door. It's worth staying here just to enjoy the antique-stuffed lobby and the individual murals which adorn each of the rooms. The rooms are all air-conditioned, and the bathtubs (if your room has one) are huge. Watch your elbows in the tiny elevator though! A basic room is 82€ to 115 €, a double runs from 96€ to 128€..

- Hôtel de l'Esperance, 15 rue Pascal (Métro: Place Monge or Censier-Daubenton), +33 1 47 07 10 99, [18]. This quirky little little family run hotel just off of Place Contrescarp and the rue Mouffetard has some really good value rooms, especially up on the top floor. The young staff gets high ratings, as does the proprietress (even with her very limited English), though it's sometimes best to avoid the proprietor depending on mood. Rooms start at 80€ and go up to 120€..

- Hôtel du Levant, 18, rue de la Harpe (Métro: Saint-Michel), +33 1 46 34 11 00 (fax: +33 1 46 34 25 87), [19]. Scoring consisent high marks for quality and spaciousness the du Levant is the closest to Place St. Michel of any of our listings here. Apparently the rooms are mostly of a standard Parisène size (small) but there are a couple of larger ones as well, so it's better to ask. Prices for a standard room start at 95€ off season or 111€ on season..

- Maitre Albert B&B, rue Maitre Albert (Métro: Maubert Mutualité or RER St Michel), (contact@private-homes.com), [20]. This lovely bed & breakfast, facing a floral courtyard, is at the second floor of a grand old building located in the historical part of Paris. At the end of Maître Albert's street are the river, the island and the glory of Notre Dame! Prices range from 95 € per night for two people including breakfast. Supplement for third person 20 € (maximum of 4)..

- Hotel Cujas Pantheon, 18 rue Cujas, +33 01 43 54 58 10 (hotel-cujas-pantheon@wanadoo.fr, fax: +33 01 43 25 88 02), [21]. A small and tidy hotel situated on a quiet side street right beside the Sorbonne university and at a 5 minutes walking distance from the nearest métro station (Cluny-La Sorbonne) and the Panthéon. single room 74€, double room 97€.

- Hotel Parc Saint Severin, 22 rue de la Parcheminerie, [22]. This hotel is located in a pedestrian street away from the noise and only one minute from the heart of the Quartier Latin and lively restaurants.

Splurge
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- Hotel Notre Dame, 1 Quai Saint Michel, +33 1 43 54 20 43 (info@hotelnotredameparis.com), [23]. A modern and design hotel located next to the Notre Dame. Some rooms offer a view on the cathedral. Accommodations for 1 or 2, this hotel makes for a wonderful romantic getaway. From 140€.

- Hotel Les Rives De Notre Dame, 15 Quai Saint Michel, +33 1 43 54 81 16 (hotel@rivesdenotredame.com, fax: +33143262709), [24].

Contact
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District 6th Table of Contents

• Get in

By Métro

By RER

By bus

• See

Landmarks

Museums and Galleries

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Midrange

Splurge

• Drink

Cafés

Bars

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
toc

By Métro
toc

Line 4 runs north-south through the 6th, connecting with the 18th, 9th, 2nd, 1st, and 14th. If you're arriving from central France or the Loire valley you'll probably connect at Gare Montparnasse.

By RER
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Line B of the RER runs through Luxembourg, right next to the Luxembourg garden and close to the Panthéon.

By bus
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Line 27, 89, 67, 83 run through

See
toc

Landmarks
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- Eglise Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 3 place St-Germain-des-Prés (Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés). Open Daily 8.00AM - 7.30PM. The oldest church in Paris, founded in the year 542 by King Childebert. The church as it exists today dates mainly from the 11th century, the period in which it became the center of a powerful Benedictine abbey. The Revolution witnessed the suppression of the abbey in 1794, when most of the monastic buildings were put to the torch. Earlier, 318 priests had been hacked to death nearby by a mob on 3 September 1792. The church underwent significant restoration in the 19th century, ensuring the preservation of the building, which by that date represented a fascinating mix of styles: 6th century marble columns placed alongside Gothic vaults and supported by Romanesque arches. Famous burials within the church include René Descartes (philosopher), Nicolas Boileau (poet) and King John Casimir of Poland, who had become (in 1669, before his death) abbot of the church's monastery.

- Palais du Luxembourg, 15 rue de Vaugirard (Métro Odéon or Mabillon), +33 1 44 54 19 49, [1]. 10:30AM to 2:30PM. Visitable only by reservation and then only one Saturday every month. A richly decorated palace built for Marie de Medici in the early 17th century, currently the French Senate. For those interested in seeing a Parisian monument normally unavailable to the public, or for those interested in the inner workings of the French Government. The large Luxembourg Garden is open to the public year-round. free.

Museums and Galleries
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- Musée national Eugène Delacroix, 6 rue de Fürstenberg (Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés or Mabillon), [2]. Open Daily except Mon, 9.30AM - 5PM (office closes 4.30pm), closed Christmas, New Year and the 1st of May. Home and studio of the great Romantic painter from 1857 until his death in 1863, features works by the artist and exhibitions of his contemporaries' work €5 discounts available, under-18s free.

Do
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Buy
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- Citypharma, 26 Rue de Four (Metro: St. Germain des Près). Cosmetic products of famous brands like "Vichy" and "La Roche" can be bought cheaper here.

- Cacao et Chocolat, 29, rue de Buci (Métro: Mabillon or Saint Germain des Près), +33 1 46 33 77 63 (fax: +33 1 46 33 80 29), [3]. Open 7 days per week from 10.30 am to 2 pm and 3 pm to 7.30 pm. An upscale chocolate boutique, the C&C also offers yummy hot chocolate to go. Another possibly more interesting way to warm up is the square of bitter 100% cacao with a glass of cognac. A whole bar of 77% Cacao is a bit pricey at €5, but a cup of hot chocolate is only €3.

Eat
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Budget
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The stretch of rue Vavin between rue Notre Dame and rue d'Assas (right before Jardin du Luxembourg) is filled with cheap eats that students frequent, such as a bakery with a dirt-cheap formule and a Wokbar. You can also find an outlet from the famous Amorino gelato chain here.

- Guen Maï, 6 Rue Cardinale, +33 1 43 26 03 24. This macrobiotic vegetarian restaurant has a sheltered, quiet location and generally receives glowing reviews.

- Wokbar, 12bis, rue Vavin. Good quality, Healthy, Fast Food based on Italian and Asian dishes.

- Santa Lucia, 22, Rue Canettes, 01 43 26 42 68. Simple but very good italian food.

- Cour de Rohan, 59, Rue Saint André des Arts (Métro: Saint-Michel). It would be an ordinary tea-room if the Cour de Rohan itself weren't such a magical little spot.

Midrange
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- Kiwi Corner, 25, rue Servandoni (Métro: Odéon, Luxembourg), 1-46-33-12-06, [4]. A little piece of New Zealand in the French capitol. €20.

- Padova, 159 blvd. de Monparnasse (Métro: (RER-B) Port Royal), +33 1 43 26 63 52, [5]. Tuesday through Saturday 11:00am to 2:00pm and 7:00pm to 11:00pm.. Good and big Italian food in this family-style restaurant.

- Yugaraj, 14 Rue Dauphine (Metro: Pont-Neuf or Odeon), +33 1 43 26 44 91. Around 40€/person.. A mostly northern Indian carte with lots of Vegetarian options. It seems a popular restaurant so be sure to book in advance if you are going in a large group.

- l'Arbuci, 25, rue de Buci, +33 1 44 32 16 00. A nice bistro with consistently favorable reviews and a jazz club downstairs.

- Brasserie Lipp, 151, Bld. Saint-Germain, [6]. A Parisian institution since 1880, the beautiful art deco interior complements the famous Alsatian menu and blond beer.

- Le Timbre, 3 rue Sainte Beuve. It's pretty much a two-person operation: chef Christopher Wright and a waitress. There is no carte, so be prepared to have the menu. Reviewers who accept this prospect are universally unreserved in their praise. €33.

- Polidor, 41, rue Monsieur Le Prince. Since 1845, but don't let that fool you, the carte is quite up-to-date. Vegetarians can assemble a fine pasta-centered meal à la carte.

Splurge
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- Ze Kitchen Gallery, 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (Métro: Saint-Michel), +33 1 44 32 00 32, [7]. Mon-Fri noon-2:30pm; Mon-Sat 7-11pm. A generally well-regarded fusion restaurant with another Guy Savoy trained chef. You should reserve if at all possible. Main courses: 20€-30€ lunch menu with wine: ~€30.

- La Bastide Odeon, 7 Rue Corneille, +33 1 43 26 03 65, [8].

- Les Bouquinistes, 53 quai des Grands-Augustins, +33 1 43 25 45 94 (fax: +33 1 43 25 23 07), [9]. A favorite among the many art dealers in the neighborhood, and a respected platform for up-and-coming chef Magdala de Beaulieu-Caussimon. Owned by Guy Savoy.

Drink
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Cafés
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The 6th has two of Paris' most famous cafés, side by side - both are more expensive than your average café (you're paying for the history and the location, not for extraordinary fare or service....):

- Café de Flore, 172 boulevard Saint Germain (Métro: St-Germain-de-Prés), +33 1 45 48 55 26, [10]. open daily 7 am - 1.30 am. This café is famous as the favored coffee and smoking venue for the Surrealists during the 1920s and '30s, the Existentialists in the 1940s and '50s, and still attracts an artistic / literati crowd.... Also does breakfasts and light meals.

- Les Deux Magots, 6 place Saint Germain de Prés (métro St Germain-des-Prés), +33 1 45 48 55 25 (fax: +33 1 45 49 31 29), [11]. open daily 8 am - 2 am. Another famous literary café, right next door to its great rival Café de Flore. Sartre and Hemingway were regular patrons here and the café confirms its literary connections with an annual, somewhat prestigious book prize.

Bars
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- 10 Bar International, 10, rue de l'Odéon (Métro: Odeon), +33 1 43 26 66 83. If you're looking to be lured into a classic Parisian hole-in-the-wall by the sound of accordion music, you should spend a few hours of your evening here. An artsy den with requisite nudie collage, their sangria is just right. A glass of wine will cost you about €3..

- The Moose, 16, rue des Quatre Vents (Métro: Odeon), +33 1 46 33 77 00. M - F 4-2 Sat-Sun 11-2. One of the only sports bars in Paris, the Moose is a quirky anglophone refuge in the heart of the 6th district. Great to stop in for directions and a pint or to watch a game with some hearty North American food, and the mostly French crowd is usually up for speaking English *or French* with students and tourists. A glass of wine will cost you about €3.5, Happy Hour everyday 4-8 €5 a pint.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Best Western Hotel Aramis in Saint Germain, 124, rue de Rennes (Metro: Right next to the Saint Placide underground station), +33 (0)1 45 48 03 75 (infos@hotelaramis.com, fax: +33 (0)1 45 44 99 29), [12]. In a quiet street yet one of the liveliest neighbourhoods of Paris, the Hotel Aramis offers budget 3-star quality stays.

Mid-Range
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- Hotel Apostrophe (Hôtel Poème), 3, rue de Chevreuse (Métro: Vavin), +33 (0)1 56 54 31 31 (direction@apostrophe-hotel.com, fax: +33 1 43 21 01 08), [13]. Set between Montparnasse and the Jardin du Luxembourg public park, near Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the Apostrophe hotel offers you an atmosphere full of poetry.16 guest rooms equipped with all the modern comfort, jet showers with light or "Chromo" jacuzzi-bath, Audio CD & DVD player,complimentary WI FI access.Each room has its own decor and invites you in a unique setting. Gay Friendly.

- Hotel Le Saint Gregoire, 43, rue de l'abbe Gregoire (Métro: Saint Placide, between Saint-Germain des Prés and the Montparnasse district), +33 (0)1 45 48 23 23 (hotel@saintgregoire.com, fax: +33 1 45 48 33 95), [14]. On a small, quiet street, the Hotel Le Saint-Gregoire has 20 rooms decorated by David Hicks with antique furnishings, paintings and lamps purchased by the owner. All rooms are air conditioned and equipped with Wi-Fi.

- Le Clos Medicis, 56 rue Monsieur-Le-Prince (Métro: Odéon or Luxembourg), +33 1 43 29 10 80 (mailto:message@closmedicis.com, fax: +33 1 43 54 26 90), [15]. This charming little hotel is only steps from the Jardin du Luxembourg and has air-conditioning in every room, and a very cozy - and usually empty - bar in the lobby in which to wind down after a day of exploring, if you and your travelling companions need some quiet time. The helpful staff speaks English readily (some even as a first language), and the usual continental breakfast is served in the lovely (but tiny) courtyard every morning from 7am - 11am. Rooms start at €120..

- Hôtel Trianon Rive Gauche, 1 bis et 3 rue de Vaugirard (Métro: Odeon, Cluny La Sorbonne, or RER-B: Luxembourg), +33 1 55 33 16 55 (fax: +33 1 55 33 16 56). Located conveniently on the border between the 6th and the Latin Quarter in the 5th rates from €120.

- K+K Hotel Cayré, 4, Boulevard Raspail, +33-1-45 44 38 88 (cayre@kkhotels.fr, fax: +33-1-45 44 98 13), [16]. Adjoining the Latin Quarter, the K+K Hotel Cayré hotel is within easy walking distance of the Louvre, Jardin des Tuileries and the Musee D'Orsay.

- Hotel des Saints Pères***, [17]. Historical hotel with a typically left bank atmosphere, close to shops and cafés.

Splurge
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- Hôtel Au Manoir Saint Germain des Prés, 153 Boulevard Saint Germain, [18]. Located just in front of the Cafe de Flore and Aux Deux Magots offering guests a view over these two cafés and the Church of SaintGermain des Prés. Refurbished in 2008. Rooms from 170 euros..

- l'Hôtel, Rue des Beaux-Arts. This hotel is beautiful inside, with baroque and modern rooms. There is a hamam style pool and sauna in the basement which can be reserved for clients of the hotel, and the restaurant is good too. Oscar Wilde lived and died here. Rooms from 300 euros..

- Victoria Palace Hotel, 6, Rue Blaise Desgoffe (Metro: Saint Placide or Montparnasse), [19]. An elegant hotel which has been a landmark on the Left Bank since 1913. The 62 rooms and suites combine lavish Louis XVI style and modern facilities. No restaurant but room service and buffet breakfast available. Rooms start at 320 Euro..

Contact
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District 7th Table of Contents

• Get in

By MétroorRER

By boat

• See

Landmarks

Museums and Galleries

Other attractions

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
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By MétroorRER
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Line 6 serves stations Bir-Hakeim (Eiffel Tower).

Line 8 serves stations Invalides (Les Invalides), Varenne (Les Invalides, Musee de Rodin), Ecole-Militaire (Eiffel Tower), Latour Maubourg(Hotel des Invalides).

Line 10 serves station 'Sevres-Babylone(Le Bon Marche).

Line 12 serves stations "Assemblée Nationale", "Solférino", "Rue du Bac", "Sèvres-Babylone"

Line 13 serves stations Invalides(Les Invalides).

RER-C serves stations Invalides (Les Invalides), Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel (Eiffel Tower), Musee D'Orsay (Musee D'Orsay).

By boat
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- Batobus [1], the hop on hop off service along the tourist sites on the Seine has stops at Tour Eiffel and the Musee d'Orsay.

See
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Landmarks
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Eiffel Tower Light Show

From dusk till 2 am there is a light show for ten minutes on every hour.

- La Tour Eiffel (The Eiffel Tower), (Métro: Bir-Hakeim or Ecole Militiare, RER-C Champ de Mars-TourEiffel), +33 1 14 52 14 90. A symbol of Paris and one of the most famous landmarks in the world. Built by Gustave Eiffel in 1887-1889, the tower was almost torn down in 1909 and only saved due to its use as a telegraphy antenna. Note that the queues can be very long. The Tower has recently begun allowing online reservations at its website, allowing visitors the choice of a date and time frame. Bear in mind that if you miss the time on your ticket, it's useless. The North, West and East pillars have elevators that go to the first and second floors; the South pillar has stairs that can be climbed to the second floor. To reach the top floor, an additional elevator ride is required, and the wait for this can be very long as well. Taking the Métro as far as Ecole Militiare and then strolling up the Champ de Mars is a lovely way to arrive at the tower. Another phenomenal arrive is to get out of the Metro at Trocadero Station and to see the Eiffel Tower from the other side of the Ecole Militaire on a platform.

- l'Assemblée Nationale, 33 quai d'Orsay, +33 1 40 63 60 00, [2]. Open Mon, Fri, Sat 8.40AM - 11.40AM and 2PM - 5PM. Guided tours conducted all day, ID required. Formerely the Palais Bourbon, this building has housed the National Assembly, the French parliament's lower house, since 1827. Some interesting architecture and the library features the painting l'Histoire de la civilization by Delacroix. Visitors may be interested in attending assembly debates.

- Hôtel des Invalides, Métro: Invalides, [3]. Founded in 1671 by Louis XIV as a hospital for 6000 war-wounded soldiers - this function explaining the name of the building - the golden-domed Hôtel des Invalides still functions as an infirmary and now also houses the Musée de l'Armée (see below). The church attached, l'Eglise du Dôme, houses the tomb of Napoleon.

Museums and Galleries
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- Musée d'Orsay, 1 rue de la Légion d'Honneur / rue de Lille (located on the Left Bank of the Seine, adjacent to the Pont Solferino and Pont Royal - opposite the Jardin des Tuileries in the 1st arrondissement, ''Métro: Solferino'', or ''Assemblée Nationale'', RER C: ''Musée d'Orsay'', bus 24, 63, 68, 69, 73, 83, 84, 94), +33 1 06 91 09 45, [4]. Housed in a former Beaux-Arts railway station (completed in 1900 for the Exposition Universelle, later saved from demolition and converted to its present use), the rambling, open-plan museum is home to the works of the great artists of the 19th century (1848-1914) - Impressionists, post-Impressionists, and the rest - that were formerly displayed in the Louvre. This is perhaps the most spectacular collection of European impressionism in the world-- breath-taking rooms full of Manet, Renoir, Monet, Van Gogh, and many others. Impressionist represent the biggest draw, but there is much more to explore. €8; concessions €5.50; under-18 free.

- Musée du quai Branly, 37 quai Branly (Métro: Iéna, Bir Hakeim), [5]. Open Tue-Sun 10 AM -6 PM (Thu -9 PM).. Opened in 2006, this is the newest and the most modern of Paris' great museums, housing an outstanding collection of tribal art, with a particular emphasis on France's former (and present) territories in Oceania and Africa. The museum is huge and you can easily spend half a day wandering out, especially if you pause to explore the multimedia presentations. Admission 8.5€, with discount 6€ (''permanent collection only'')..

- Musée Rodin, 79 Rue de Varenne (Métro: Varenne; RER: Invalides), +33 1 44 18 61 10 (fax: +33 1 44 18 61 30), [6]. Tue-Sun: museum: 10am-5:45pm, park: till 6pm; ticket office: till 5:15pm. Closed Mon. A museum dedicated to the life and work of the great sculptor. The house contains an extensive collection, which is unusually well presented in a spacious building with big windows that are open in nice weather, which makes this museum double pleasant. Admission 5€, with discount 3€, garden only 1€, family ticket €10 (2 adults+1 child, museum+garden), visitors under 18 free.

Other attractions
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- Les Egouts de Paris, (entrance opposite 93 quai d'Orsay near the Pont d'Alma, Métro: Alma-Marceau). For an interesting take on Paris, check out the underground sewers of Paris.

Do
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- Vedettes de Paris (sightseeing cruises), [7]. Discover Paris by river on a chic boat.

Buy
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- Le Bon Marché, 24, rue de Sèvres (Metro: Sèvres Babylone), +33 1 00 09 00 93. The one of the world's first department store, the oldest and one of the largest in modern Paris.

- Rue Cler, [8]. Market street 10 minutes from the Eiffel Tower. The market is at its best on Tue–Sat 8:30–13:00 or 15:00–19:30, Sun 8:30–12:00, closed on Mon.

Eat
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Expect high prices at cafés and restaurants.

Budget
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- Au Pied de Fouet (At the wrong end of the whip), 45 rue de Babylone (Métro: Vaneau), +33 1 47 05 12 27, [9]. It's an appropriate name for a restaurant renowned for its unapologetically rude wait staff. Some people say that this is part of the charm of the place, perhaps that fits your definition of the word "charm" as well? Or perhaps not. One way or the other it's cheap and the food is good. €8-€12.

- Chez Germaine, 30 rue Pierre Leroux, +33 1 42 73 28 34. It's all about home-cooking, like your grandma would do if she were French, and trained in cooking.

- l'Oasis, 162, rue de Grenelle. An authentic take on Moroccan cuisine

Mid-Range
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- Tribeca, 36, Rue Cler, 75007 Paris, 01 45 55 12 01. A very nice terrasse on the rue Cler (pedestrian area). The food is simple but good and reasonably cheap. dinner menu Approx. €20.

- Le Clos des Gourmets, 16 avenue Rapp (Métro: Ecole Militaire / Alma Marceau, RER: Pont de l'Alma), +33 1 45 51 75 61. Open Tue-Sat 12.15PM - 2PM, 7.15PM - 11PM, Closed Sun-Mon and August. A great little restaurant, elegant without being stuffy, popular with foreign visitors and American diplomatic staff (interesting conversations to be overheard....), fantastic French cuisine with a twist - try the avocado millefeuille with orange sauce for dessert (a surprisingly good combination) dinner menu: €33, credit cards accepted.

- Chez l'Ami Jean, 27 Rue Malar. A sensational little restaurant featuring food and wine from the Basque region. dinner menu Approx. €30, credit cards accepted.

Splurge
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- Le Petit Tibéro, 132 rue du Bac, +33 1 45 48 76 25.

- Le Voltaire, 27, quai Voltaire, +33 1 42 61 17 49. Le Voltaire has always been tres chic and with customers like Helene Rochas and the Rothschild family, you know you are dining with the right set. Peaceful wood paneling and lighting that flatters, it is an intimate and romantic setting, where newcomers feel that they belong to an exclusive club. Be sure to dine upon the tenderloin in pepper sauce, magnifique!

Drink
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- Le Cafe des Lettres, 53, rue de Verneuil, +33 1 42 22 52 17. Open noon until 11pm Mon to Sat. The charming cobblestoned courtyard makes this an ideal place to sit down and linger over a glass of wine. Excellent cocktail list.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Hotel du Quai Voltaire **, 19, quai Voltaire 75007 PARIS, [10]. The Hotel du Quai Voltaire’s extraordinary location in the heart of historic Paris is a link between the Left and Right Banks, enabling you to walk almost anywhere. Stunning view on the Seine and the Louvre. Single, double and triple rooms.

- Hotel de l'Alma ***, 32 rue de l'Exposition - 75007 Paris, [11]. Located 5-10 minutes from the Eiffel Tower and a couple of minutes from Rue Cler, Hotel de l'Alma offers all the amenities you expect from a 3-star hotel, but with 2-star rates.

Mid-Range
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- Hôtel Chomel, 15, rue Chomel, +33 1 45 48 55 52, [12]. Basic but clean 3 star hotel.

- Hôtel du Champ de Mars, 7, rue du Champ de Mars, +33 1 45 51 52 30 (fax: +33 1 45 51 64 36). Great value for money in an affordable location.

- Hôtel Saint-Dominique, 62, rue Saint-Dominique, +33 1 47 05 51 44, [13]. Charming decor and attentive staff.

- Hôtel Lindbergh, 5, rue Chômel, +33 1 45 48 35 53.

- Duquesne Eiffel Hôtel, 23, avenue Duquesne, +33 1 44 42 09 09.

- Hôtel de la Tulipe, 33, rue Malar, +33 1 45 51 67 21, [14].

- Grand Hotel Leveque, 29, rue Cler (Métro: École Militaire), +33 1 47 05 49 15 (fax: +33 1 45 50 49 36), [15]. Near the Eiffel Tower, on a charming market street. €75 to €150..

- Hotel d'Orsay***, 93 rue de Lille, [16]. Just a few steps from the Musée d'Orsay. Staying here is a convenient way to visit both right and left bank.

Splurge
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- Timhôtel Best Western Tour Eiffel Invalides, 35, boulevard de La Tour-Maubourg, +33 1 45 56 10 78.

- Hôtel Saint-Dominique, 62, rue St Dominique, (33-1) 47 05 51 44 (fax: (33-1) 47 05 81 28), [17].

Contact
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District 8th Table of Contents

• Get in

By Métro

• See

Landmarks

Museums and Galleries

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
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By Métro
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Take Line 1 to George V.

See
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Landmarks
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For many visitors one of the must-see places in Paris is the Avenue des Champs-Elysées which was first created in 1667 by Louis XIV's gardener, Andre Le Nôtre, in order to improve the view from the Tuileries garden. This elegant and broad avenue was extended towards the end of the 18th century, now running from the place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe. It is noted today as one of the most prestigious shopping boulevards of Paris.

At the east end of the Champs-Elysées is Place de la Concorde, the largest square in Paris with fantastic vistas in every direction. It was in this square (then called la Place de la Revolution) that the French King Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette and many others were guillotined during the Terror. The large Egyptian obelisk in the centre of the Place de la Concorde was brought from the Temple of Luxor.

- l'Arc de Triomphe, place Charles de Gaulle (Métro Charles de Gaulle-Etoile), +33 1 01 11 01 03. This iconic triumphal arch forms the focus of the main east-west road axis of Paris, running between the Louvre and the Grande Arche de la Défense in the west. The monument was commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 as a tribute to his victories as Emperor of France - it was finally completed in 1836, long after his death. 50 m (150 ft) high and 45 m wide, the Arc de Triomphe is decorated with battle scenes and martial sculptures that includes La Marseillaise by Rude. More recently, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier was placed beneath the arch in 1920, where an eternal flame burns in tribute to the French dead of both World Wars. The arch is surrounded by a large roundabout, aptly known as l'Etoile - 'the star' - with 12 thoroughfares leading off from it. Visitors can purchase a ticket to climb to the top of the arch, from where magnificent views spread out over western Paris. Admission to a small museum devoted to the history and meaning of the monument is included. The central island and the arch are accessed by an underground passage. Do not attempt to negotiate by foot the busy multi-lane road that rings the Arc de Triomphe, which many Parisian drivers seem to consider their own personal speedway. admission fee applies for over-17s.

- Église de la Madeleine (La Madeleine), place de la Madeleine (Métro: Madeleine). Open 7AM - 7PM Mon-Sat, 8AM - 1.30PM and 3.30PM - 7PM Sun. One of the best-known and most beautiful churches in Paris, in the guise of a Corinthian order Classical temple. Construction started in 1764, although the church was not finally consecrated until 1845. The Madeleine has a lavish interior of marble and gold.

Museums and Galleries
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- Musée Jacquemart-André (Jacquemart-Andre Museum), [1]. Private collection of French, Italian, Dutch masterpieces in a typical XIXth century mansion.

- Musée du Petit Palais.

- Musée Cernuschi, 7 Avenue Vélasquez (Métro : Monceau, Villiers), +33 1 45 63 50 75, [2]. closed Mo and public holidays, open daily 10AM - 5.40PM.

- Jerome de Noirmont, 38, avenue Matignon, +33 1 42 89 89 00. This museum represents some key contemporary and emering artists such as Jean Pierre Raynaud, Eva and Adele and Jeff Koons.

- Le Grand Palais (Galeries nationales du Grand Palais), [3]. An impressive museum wtih a classic interior.

Do
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Buy
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Eat
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Budget
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Mid-range
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- Chez Francis, 7, place de l'Alma (Métro - Montagne). View of the Eiffel Tower and serves the most delicious Croques Monsieur and Madame for €12.

- Diep, 55 rue Pierre-Charron (Métro Franklin D. Roosevelt), +33 1 45 63 52 76. Thai, Chinese, and Indonesian. Vegetarian friendly.

- Findi, 24 avenue George V (Métro George V), +33 1 47 20 14 78, [4]. Italian cuisine. Romantic. Vegetarian friendly.

This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:

Budget

up to €--

Mid-range

up to €--

Splurge

over €--

- Restaurant Indien Qasim, 22 rue du Colisée (Métro: Franklin D. Roosevelt), +33 1 45 62 19 73. Typical Pakistani & Indian Dishes.

- Kokohana (Teppanyaki), 1, Rue Jean Mermoz, +33 8 26 10 01 99. Two chefs battle against each other in a spectacular performance of chopping, slicing, sautein everything from scallops to foie gras. The food is average, but the presentation is well worth it menus from €14.50—38.

- Qasim, 22 rue du Colisée (Métro: Franklin D. Roosevelt), +33 1 45 62 19 73. Typical Pakistani & Indian Dishes

- Spoon, 14, rue Marignan (Métro - Franklin Roosevelt), +33 1 40 76 34 44 (spoonfood@marignan-elysees.fr), [5]. M-F 12:15PM-2:30PM, 7:30PM-10:30PM. Chef Alain Ducasse's à la mode eatery with modern appeal. The carte allows you to choose a main dish, the condiment, and an accompanying dish for a personalized menu with a high end feel.

- Villa Spicy, 8 avenue Franklin Roosevelt (Métro Franklin Roosevelt), +33 1 56 59 62 59, [6]. Warm and peaceful close to the Champs-Elysees restaurant serving an organic detox menu.

Splurge
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- Hanawa, 26, rue Bayard, +33 1 56 62 70 70. Great sushi in a nice atmosphere, extensive menu.

- Ladurée, 75, avenue des Champs-Elysées, +33 1 40 75 08 75, [7]. Famous for their macaron cookies, which come in over 15 different flavors. Expensive, but an experience. There is a tea room, a bar, and a restaurant. You can also order baked goods to go, in fancy boxes and bags.

- La Table du Lancaster, 7, Rue de Berri, +33 1 40 76 40 18, [8]. Directed under chef Michel Troisgros, the kitchen prepares food in five themes: tomatoes, citrus, spices, greens, and dairy). This hotel restaurant was once home to screen goddess, Marlene Dietrich. Lunch is up to €50 per person.

Drink
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- Buddha Bar, 8 Rue Boissy d' Anglais (Métro: Concorde), +33 1 53 05 90 00 (fax: +33 1 53 05 90 09), [9]. The Buddha Bar is famous in electronic lounge music circles for having commissioned a series of lounge and downtempo records which you can get at most larger record shops in France, as well as many abroad. Although you can also get them at the bar it's probably not the best way, since they charge €45 per CD. The drinks are not so over-priced, and definitely worth it for the hip, sophisticated, and chill atmosphere.

Sleep
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Mid-Range
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- Hotel Le Lavoisier, 21 rue Lavoisier (between Saint Augustin church and Place de la Madeleine, near Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré), +33 1 53 30 06 06 (info@hotellavoisier.com), [10]. Brands itself as a boutique style hotel, with unique décor combining classical and contemporary in a Haussmann-style building in the street of the same name. 25 double rooms with old-style furniture, air-conditioning, satellite television, a telephone socket, Wi-Fi Internet access and bathrooms with both tubs and shower. €169-450. (48.873796,2.320286)

- Hotel Ceramic Elysees 34 Avenue de Wagram, 75008 Paris ☎ phone +33 (0)1 42 27 20 30 Great central location.

Splurge
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- Champs Elysées Plaza, 35, rue de Berri - 75008 - Paris, +33 1 53 53 20 20 (reservation@champselyseesplaza.com, fax: +33 1 53 53 20 21), [11]. Unusually large rooms and suites. Elegant and sophisticated, with high tech equipment and comfort, they offer a unique mix of contemporary chic décor with ceiling moldings, marble fireplaces and large windows looking at two beautiful and quiet streets.

- Hôtel Astor Saint Honoré, 11 Rue d'Astorg, +33 1 53 05 05 05 (reservation@astorsainthonore.com, fax: +33 1 53 05 05 30), [12]. 4-star hotel located in a quiet street.

- Hôtel Balzac, 6, rue de Balzac, 866 914 8916. This elegantly furnished hotel exudes opulence from its fine classic interior to the personalied butler service on offer.

- Hôtel de Crillon, 10 Place de la Concorde (northern side), Champs-Élysées, +33 1 44 71 15 01 (fax: +33 1 44 71 15 03), [13]. Without doubt, one of the most prestigious, palatial and expensive hotels in Paris (if you have to ask how much, you can't afford to stay here. Superior doubles start at €530.... prices rise steeply thereafter, especially for the suites).

- Hyatt Regency Paris-Madeleine, 24 Boulevard Malesherbes, +33 1 5527 1234 (paris.madeleine@hyatt.com, fax: +33 1 5527 1235), [14]. Close to the shopping centres on Boulevard Haussmann-Printemps and Galeries Lafayette. 86 hotel rooms and suites, High-speed wifi available. Views of Boulevard Malesherbe. Business services available.

- Hotel Keppler (A member of Preferred Boutique), 10 Rue Kepler, +33 1 472 06505, [15]. Located in the entertainment district with 34 guestrooms and 5 suites. A winter garden and bar is available within the hotel. €125-€250.

- Four Seasons Hotel George V, 31, avenue George V, +33 1 49 52 70 00 (fax: +33 1 49 52 70 100), [16]. Steps from the Champs-Elysées, with private terraces that command all Paris; 17th-century tapestries, lovingly restored; and a spirit that lives on in thoroughly reborn, highly advanced spaces, Four Seasons George V Paris redefines luxury service in the City of Light.

- Hotel Plaza Elysees, 177 Boulevard Haussmann, + 33 (0)1 45 63 93 83, [17]. Ideally situated in the area of Champs Elysées and Faubourg Saint-Honoré, very close to the Arc-de-Triomphe.Direct link to Disneyland® Resort Paris, La Defense. Lido Cabaret and the famous Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré with Haute Couture Shops and Antiques Furniture Shops.

- Hotel Lumen Palace, 15 Rue Des Pyramides, +33 1 44507700 (info@hotel-lumenparis.com, fax: +33 1 44507710), [18].

- Hotel Sofitel Le Faubourg-Paris, 15, rue Boissy d'Anglas, +33 1 44 94 14 14 (fax: +33 1 44 94 14 28), [19]. 154 rooms and 20 suites spread over two buildings dating from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Contact
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District 9th Table of Contents

• Get in

By Métro

• See

Landmarks

Opéra District

Pigalle

Museums and Galleries

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
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By Métro
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Major stations are: Opéra (3, 7, 8), Chausette d'Antin La Fayette (7, 9), and Grands Boulevards (8, 9).

See
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Landmarks
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Opéra District
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As with the other 19 arrondissements of Paris there are a lot of little commemorative plaques scattered around on the houses of the 9th. One example is the site of the first public demonstration of the Lumiere brother's moving picture projection system which is marked by a pair of commemorative plaques at number 14, Bd. des Capucines between rue Scribe and rue Edward VIII.

- Opéra Garnier, place de l'Opéra, [1]. open 10 AM to 4:30 PM daily. The magnificent setting for The Phantom of the Opera, the inside is as opulent as the outside. However, since the opening of the Opera Bastille (12th) in 1989, the Palais Garnier has been reserved mostly for dance performances, particularly ballet. Entry 7€. The cheapest seats for actual performances can go as low as 6€ if you book early..

- Musée Grévin, 10 Boulevard Montmartre, +33 1 47 70 85 05, [2]. This is a wax museum, primarily of interest to older children.

Pigalle
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Museums and Galleries
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- Musée Gustave Moreau, 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld (Métro: Trinité), +33 1 48 74 38 50 (fax: +33 1 48 74 18 71), [3]. Open Wed - Mon 10AM to 12.45PM and 2PM - 5.15PM. The house of the Symbolist painter has now become a museum to his life and work Admission €4 (some reductions on offer).

- Musée Grévin. The Musée Grévin is a waxwork museum in Paris located on the Grands Boulevards on the right bank of the Seine with some 500 characters arranged in scenes from the history of France and modern life.

Do
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Admire the skyline from the roofs of Printemps or the Galeries Lafayette. There's also a hot air balloon at Parc André Citroën (south-western Paris). It doesn't operate on windy days, though.

- les Grands Boulevards. Go shopping at the grands magasins (department stores).

- Olympia Hall, 28, boulevard des Capucines, [4]. Concerts for an older crowd. Be sure to tip the usher €2 or so.

Buy
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Particularly interesting in this area are the covered passageways built in the 19th Century: charming early versions of the shopping mall. There are several in the vicinity of boulevard Haussmann and rue Vivienne, including passage Jouffroy and passage Verdeau, and across the boulevard Haussmann in the 2nd arrondissement , the passage des Panoramas.

The department stores along the boulevard Haussmann are overpriced compared to smaller specialty shops. For a more interesting selection and better quality-price ratio, venture out to the innumerable shopping streets in Paris. Make sure to say bonjour on entering and merci, au revoir on leaving. For more information on common courtesy in Paris, see the main Paris article.

- Galeries Lafayette, 40 blvd. Haussmann, [5]. The gourmet section is a Paris institution that takes up an entire floor, featuring (among many other things) several competing vendors of deluxe baguettes, a few hundred types of cheese and an entire aisle devoted to mustard. Depending on your home country you may be eligible for a 10% discount for all goods (you just need to show a flyer that is attached to tourist office Paris maps).

- Printemps, 64 blvd Haussmann, [6].

Eat
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If you're in the southern part of the neighbourhood, you might also consider arrondissements 2 or 8 - neither are more than a short walking distance. You could also visit the food section of any of the grands magasins, or one of the smaller traiteurs (shops selling prepared food), and pick up the ingredients for a piquenique in the square Louis XVI on boulevard Haussmann and rue Pasquier; square de la Trinité, at the top of rue de la chaussée d'Antan--free concerts in the church at 12:30 most Thursdays; or the square du Montholon on rue de la Fayette between rue Cadet and rue du faubourg Poissonière. Otherwise, here are some good eating options:

- Chartier, 7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre (Métro: Grand Boulevard), +33 1 47 70 86 29, [7]. Since 1896. Menu changes daily, historic building. Nice and cheap food. Plain cooking; don't expect haute cuisine.

- Corneil, 18 Rue Condorcet (Métro: Poissonnière), +33 1 49 95 92 25. Good French restaurant, reasonable prices. The Côte de boeuf pour deux (steak for two) is a classic. €20-40.

- Kastoori, 5 Rue Henri Monnier (Métro: Saint Georges). Good and reasonably priced indian restaurant. (48.8796,2.3373)

- Pizza Marzano (Pizza Express), 30 Boulevard des Italiens (Métro: Opéra), +33 1 47 70 33 33. open daily 11.30AM - midnight. UK travellers will be familiar with the above-average pizza / pasta menu, speedy table service and very reasonable prices. This outlet has a large al fresco area for the warmer months.

- Pizza Marzano Clichy, 10 Bis Place de Clichy, +33 1 40 16 52 30. open daily 11AM - 1AM. On the site of an old Paris restaurant, La Champagne, this second "Pizza Express" outlet (they're both in the 9th) is located close to the Moulin Rouge and Montmartre

- Au Relais, 7 rue Cadet, +33 1 45 23 25 22. Downstairs is the local bar with a few tables; most patrons know the two women behind the bar by name. Upstairs is a low-ceilinged dining room. On weekdays they have a €12 lunch menu for two courses and a small pitcher of wine. The food is traditional and very good. €12 to €20.

- Le Roi du Pot-au-Feu, 34, Rue Vignon (Métro: Madeleine or Havre-Caumartin), +33 1 47 42 37 10. The menu is very short, but the meals are big and good. The best Pot-au-Feu in the world. Very nice, typical Parisian atmosphere. Complete meal + beverage for approx. 35 €.

Drink
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- Bar des Roses, 1 rue de Vintimille, +33 1 49 70 09 22.

- Le Café Zéphyr, 12 bd Montmartre (Métro Grands Boulevards), +33 1 47 70 80 14. A typical brasserie with a fine choice of simple food (salads, etc.).

- I Golosi, 6 rue Grange Batelière (Métro Grands Boulevards), +33 1 48 24 18 63. In a quiet side street, a good Italian wine bar and shop where you can buy the wines you will have tasted.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Hotel de Lille, 2 rue du Montholon (Métro: Poissonière), +33 1 47 70 38 76 (fax: +33 1 48 00 04 55). Hotel de Lille is a cheap, family-run fairly spartan yet charming hotel in the centre of Paris, near the Gare du Nord. The area around this train station, worked by street prostitutes, is not very pleasant at night.

- Perfect Hotel & Hostel, 39 rue Rodier (Métro: Anvers), +33 1 42 81 18 86 (fax: +33 1 42 85 01 38), [8]. The Perfect advertises bargain rates for backpackers and families.

Mid-range
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- Hotel La Tour d'Auvergne (Hotel Montmartre), 10, rue de la Tour d'Auvergne (Metro: Anvers, Poissonnière, Cadet), +33 1 48 78 61 60, [9]. Hotel de la Tour d’Auvergne is a charming house in a street full of surprises. A few steps away from Montmartre, rue des Martyrs, Opéra, and avenue Trudaine.

- Hotel George Opera, 46 rue Notre Dame de Lorette (Metro: Saint Georges), +33 1 48 74 03 29 (hotel.george@astotel.com, fax: +33 1 45 26 28 14), [10]. Friendly and English speaking staff. Free WiFi in the rooms. (48.8794,2.3365)

- Hotel Gotty Opera, 11, rue de Trevise (Metro: Grands Boulevards, Cadet), +33 1 47 70 12 90, [11]. A three-star, just a stone's throw from Folies Bergere in a quiet street, yet close to bistros, supermarkets and in walking distance to major attractions.

- Hotel Langlois (Hotel des Croisés), 63, rue Sant-Lazare (Metro: Porte de la Chapelle), +33 1 48 74 78 24, [12]. The service is impeccable, and the rooms are gorgeous. The plumbing is also first rate, by any standards. They service a decent breakfast in the morning, but there are also a boulangerie and a bar just down the street.

- Paris Hotel, 23, Rue Henri Monnier (Metro: Pigalle or Saint Georges (both 400m away)), +33 1 42 85 43 43. This is a nice 3 star, situated near Pigalle. The rooms are of decent quality and the views of the street are charming and typically Parisian (lots of Balcony's and Shutters at the front, and a pleasant garden view at the back.) There's free Wi-Fi in the rooms and a nice breakfast room. The street can get a little noisy at night, but that's typical of the area and probably not enough to keep you awake but you should be aware in cae you happen to be a light sleeper. There is a Renault parking garage round the corner which charged €52 for 72 hours. A good choice if you're after a reasonably quiet clean hotel at a modest rate. Double room with a shower €85.

- Hotel Jules, 49-51 rue La Fayette, 75009 Paris, France (close to Metro station Le Palletier), +33 1 42 85 05 44 (reservations@hoteljules.com), [13]. checkin: 1PM; checkout: 11AM. 3 Star hotel located between two bohemian Parisian districts - Gare Saint Lazare and Gare de Nords. Close to Garnier Opera House.

Splurge
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- Hôtel Scribe, 1, rue Scribe, +33 1 44 71 24 24. Crown jewel in the Sofitel chain, this elegantly redecorated 4 star hotel hasn't lost any of its charm since it was first opened in 1895. All rooms are sound proofed and come with wifi access. The apartments have a separate entrance and they can provide you with a nanny if needed.

Contact
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District 10th Table of Contents

• Get in

By Métro

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
toc

By Métro
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As it is everywhere in Paris all metro stations are not equal. Stations such as Place de la Republique connect to many lines but can be time consuming for a first time visitor. A smaller station such as Goncourt is easier to get in and out of. You may walk a bit more on the street but that's easy and a lot more fun.

Do
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- Promenade Canal St. Martin. Enjoy a leisurely stroll along the water's edge while viewing amazing sunsets over the canal. Linger over a coffee and tuck into a pastry while feeling that you are experiencing the true Paris.

- Musee de l'Eventail, 2 Boulevard de Strasbourg, +33 1 4208 9020. 2PM-6PM M-W, During vacations: 2PM-6PM M-F. Exhibits a collection of more than 400 fans from the 18th century to the present day.

- Palais des Glaces, 37 Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, +33 1 4202 0525. 11PM-6:30PM M-Sa. Grand palace with two theatres, the Palais des Glaces (Palace of Mirrors) features two shows, often two comics, simultaneously, and sometimes shows for children.

Buy
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The Boulevard de Strasbourg found between Place de la République and Gare de l'Est is known for supporting the coiffure or hairdressing trade, with dozens of shops selling hairdressing equipment and supplies. Interestingly the African hairdressers of Paris have set up shop right alongside their suppliers. So if you're interested you can have your hair done up in dreadlocks, pearly braids or another African style and can have your nails done too!

Meanwhile rue de Marseille has a number of trendy clothing shops. Another good spot to explore the slightly delapidated Passage Brady. It's full of Indian and Pakistani restaurants, for which it's sometimes called "le Petit Bombay". Stop in at the Bazaar Velan for incense, spices, and kitsch souvenirs.

- Artazart, 83 quai de Valmy (Métro Jacques Bonsergent), +33 1 40 40 24 00 (info@artazart.com). Open Daily 10.30AM -7.30PM Sat & Sun 2PM - 8PM. A bookshop, specialized in design & graphic design. Lots of imports.

- Marché St-Quentin. (open Monday-Saturday 8AM-1PM, 3:30PM-7:30PM, Sunday 8AM-1PM). Market that offers a variety of goods from flowers and produce to antiques and candies.

- Du Pain et des Idées, 34 rue Yves Toudic, [1]. one of the best new bakeries in Paris

Eat
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- Baxo, 21 rue Juliette Dodu (near le canal Saint Martin), +33 1 42 02 99 71, [2]. A lounge bar restaurant with a bobo environment and rich dishes.

- Julien, 16 rue du Faubourg-St Denis (Métro: Strasbourg-St Denis), +33 1 47 70 12 06. Open Daily Noon-3PM, 7PM-1.30AM. The original 1890 decor of this Parisian dining classic is a mix of Cuban mahogany and Art Nouveau paintings and fixtures - an atmospheric treat. The cuisine is mostly south-western French: lots of foie gras and the speciality, cassoulet d'oie (goose in white beans). Lunch €21, prix fixe €30, average plate €40, all cards taken..

- Mukura, 79 quai de Valmy (Métro: Château Landon). This tiny Colombian restaurant calls itself a "Salon du chocolat, café, thé & fruits latino". In fact they serve a variety of fine plates for lunch or dinner, and the great fact is that it's one of the few truly non-smoking dining rooms around. Make sure to try their Lulo juice as well as their fruit salads. Lulo is a fruit native to Colombia.

- La Vigne Saint Laurent, 2 rue Saint Laurent (Métro : Gare de l'Est), +33 1 42 05 98 20. open daily lunch/dinner. Tiny wine bar, good choice of classic country food (beautiful 'charcuterie') & good choice of reasonably priced wines.

- Restaurant La Strasbourgeoise, 5 rue du 8 Mai 1945 (Métro Garde de l'Est), +33 1 42 05 20 02. One of the good "choucroutes" in Paris, in a nice décor', make sure to visit, its highly recommended.

- Chez Prune, 36 Rue Beaurepaire (near le Canal St. Martin), +33 1 42 41 30 47. Primarily a drinking establishment, but serves food as well. The cheese plate, which is served with bread and fruit, is particularly good. Often quite crowded with locals. Waitstaff not necessarily proficient in English.

There are lots of Indian" Restaurants (actually very often owned by Pakistanis) in Rue du faubourg Saint Denis, between Rue du Château d'Eau & Rue de la Fidélité (Métro: Château d'Eau).

They offer cheap, tasty vegetarian and tandoori food that is typically 5 €. In Passage Brady (between Boulevard de Strasbourg and Rue du faubourg Saint Denis) Shalimar is a good choice for a great night out.

In the same Rue du faubourg Saint Denis but higher up, between Gare du Nord & Boulevard de la Chapelle (Métro Gare du Nord or La Chapelle), try out some Tamil food & Pondicherry specialities.

- Khrishna-bhavan, 24 Rue Cail or at their new outlet at 21 Rue Cail (Metro: La Chapelle), +33 1 42 05 78 43, [3]. open daily 11 am - 11pm. Serves excellent Indian vegetarian dishes from the southern state of Tamil Nadu and Sri Lanka. First timers can consider trying the Thali, a combo platter consisting of steamed rice served with 5 different curries. 5 € mains. (+48° 52' 58.26,+2° 21' 34.56)

Drink
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- Baxo, 21 rue Juliette Dodu (near le canal Saint Martin), +33 1 42 02 99 71, [4]. A new romantic lounge bar with a very nice patio.

- Le Verre Volé, 67 r Lancry (near the canal Saint Martin), +33 1 48 03 17 34. A part wine bar-part wine shop, an excellent address for nice, simple food & wines -and you can take home a bottle you've sampled during meal if you wish!

Sleep
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Budget
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There are a number of real cheapies in the 10th which seem to be worth checking out.

- Peace and Love Hostel, 245, rue Lafayette (Métro: Jaurès), +33 1 46 07 65 11, [5]. Travellers who have a lot of hostel staying experience mostly find the Peace and Love to be well within the high quality range for hostels. As usual in Paris the rooms are pretty small, the staff in general gets high marks, but the manager has been known to be crabby. Apparently the pub is good enough that there's some danger you might not go out. Must be between 18 and 35, and want to party to stay here. They suggest that if you want to sleep, this may not be the place for you. €17 for a dorm bed in the off season 21€ during high season. Double rooms are €25..

- Hôtel Vicq d'Azir, 21 rue Vicq-d'Azir (Métro: Colonel-Fabien), +33 1 42 08 06 80. This little cheapie is in the process of a renovation under its new management. Most of the rooms overlook a nice little courtyard with a tree. Rooms with a shower are €22.50/€28 singles/doubles or €18/€20 without a shower. Showers in the hall cost €3, so maybe go for the shower in the room..

- Hotel de Maubeuge, 79 rue de Maubeuge 75010 Paris (Gare du Nord), +33(0)1 48 78 03 49, [6]. Simple and decent, 2 minutes from Gare de Nord (Eurostar terminal), metro, RER, buses.

- Hotel Marciano, 168 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis 75010 Paris (Gare du Nord), +33 (0)1 40 37 71 71, [7]. A couple of minutes from Gare de Nord (Nord Station), cheap, adequate and clean.

- Hotel Saint Quentin, 27 rue de Saint Quentin 75010 Paris (Gare du Nord), +33(0)1 40 36 95 50, [8]. Quiet location in a little street, just in front of the station (Gare du Nord).

- Hotel Paradis, 41 rue des Petites Ecuries (Métro: Bonne Nouvelle), +33 (0)1 45 23 08 22 (hotel@hotelparadisparis.com), [9].

Mid-Range
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- Albert 1er Hotel, 162, rue Lafayette, +33 1 40 36 82 40. The hotel is located near Gare du Nord that is very convenient for traveling to the suburbs and it takes only 30 minutes walk to get to the city center. The rooms are not too big but very clean and well equipped. The staff are friendly and can send you an official reservation confirmation if you need it.

- Hôtel Paris Est Lafayette, 175 rue Lafayette, Paris 75010. Recently renovated, this 51 room hotel has modern furnishings decorated with warm colours. Staff are professional and efficient and there is 24 hr reception, as well as a tasty buffet breakfast each morning in the buffet room.

- Quality Hotel Gare Du Nord, 31/33 Rue de Saint-Quentin. Housed in a historic building dating back to 1868, the Quality Hotel offers an ideal location only minutes away from the Gare du Nord train station. Great for the business traveler, this hotel includes in all its rooms modem plugs, Wi-Fi access and tea & coffee making facilities.

- Hotel à la Villa Saint Martin, 27,rue des récollets (Métro: Gare de l'Est), +33 1 46 07 07 07 (hotel@villastmartin.com), [10]. checkin: 14h; checkout: 11h30. Close from Gare de l'Est and Gare du Nord train stations, just next to Canal Saint Martin, la Villa Saint Martin is a 3 stars hotel offering a perfect service and many features such as free Wifi Internet, Flat TV screens, fitness rooms and more.

Splurge
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Contact
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District 11th Table of Contents

• Get in

By Métro

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Oberkampf

Bastille

• Drink

Oberkampf

Bastille

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

• Contact

Get in
toc

By Métro
toc

See
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- Cirque d'Hiver, [1]. Mainly used as a concert hall and venue for fashion shows today, the Cirque d'Hiver was originally built in 1852 - as the name would suggest - as a winter venue for circuses.

- Musée Edith Piaf, 5 rue Crespin du Gast (Métro Ménilmontant), +33 1 43 55 52 72. 13:00 - 18:00, Mon - Thu (by appointment only).

Do
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- Ô Chateau, Paris Wine Tasting, [2]. Discover French Wines variety and specificity with a native French Sommelier. Informative, relaxing and fun. In English in a beautiful parisian loft.

Buy
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- Distribution, 108 avenue Ledru-Rollin (Métro: Ledru-Rollin), +33 1 48 04 30 38. It may be a strange name for a store which sells toys and baby-clothes, but it's a good place to go if you happen to be in town with someone very small and find yourself needing a new pair of jammies, without paying the cost of a night at the hotel. There are a range of new, used and consignment clothes, and if you like they will manufacture tee-shirts, onesies, very small lab-coats, or other such items with a message or design of your choice.

Eat
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Oberkampf
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- Gemi's, 9, rue Crussol (Métro: Filles du Calvaire or Oberkampf), +33 1 43 57 08 64, [3]. 7 days a week, until 1h30 am. This restaurants serves only cheese and wine in a room with a trendy atmosphere. They have a very large choice and will help you discover these two very important french specialities.

- Clown Bar, 114 rue Amelot (Métro: Filles du Calvaire or Oberkampf), +33 1 43 55 87 35. Open from Noon to 3PM and 7PM to 2AM. The food served in this absolutely beautiful room is classic French. The decor is classic Circus, which makes sense since it's just two doors north of the building which has traditionally housed circuses passing through during the winter. The ''formule'' for lunch costs 13.50 Euro, while the dinner ''menu'' is 18.50. Ordering ''à la carte'' will cost you around 22 Euro..

- L'Estaminet, 116 rue Oberkampf (Métro: Parmentier or Ménilmontant), +33 1 43 57 34 29. French food with a high degree of originality and creativity. The service is warm and friendly, and so is the decor. Expect to pay around 12 to 20 Euro not counting wine..

- Norbulinga, 118 rue Amelot (Métro: Filles du Calvaire or Oberkampf), +33 1 47 00 90 18. Open from noon to 2:30PM and 7PM to 11PM daily except Sundays.. Tibetan restaurants aren't widely known to be vegetarian friendly, but this beautifully appointed one certainly is with a list of around 12 vegetarian dishes. Of course there's plenty for meat lovers as well. Some dishes might remind you of spicier western Chinese cooking, others seem a bit more south-Asian. Most dishes are around 7Euro, but some are as little as 5..

- Le Trou Normand, 9 rue Jean Pierre Timbaud (Métro: Oberkampf), +33 1 48 05 80 23. Open until 1:00am..

- Aux Comptoirs des Indes, 50 rue de la Fontaine Au Roi (Métro: Parmentier), +33 1 48 05 45 76. Indian. Menus 15 Euro.

- Le Troisième Bureau, 74 rue de la folie Mericourt (Métro: Parmentier), +33 1 43 55 87 65. French 12 to 20 Euro.

- Le Kitch, 10 rue Oberkampf (Métro: Oberkampf), +33 1 40 21 94 14. Daily until 2:00am. A tiny french restaurant with a kitch atmosphere, at least visually. The music on the other hand is fresh, mostly trip-hop and zen as of this writing. The food is good too. 12 to 20 Euro..

- Café Cannibale, 93 rue jean-pierre timbaud (Métro: Parmentier), 33 1 49 29 95 59. Originally ladies-only, it's now co-ed. The word fashionable doesn't even begin to explain the place. (48.8683229,2.3792526)

- Avé Maria, 1 rue Jacquard (Métro: Oberkampf), +33 1 47 00 61 73. Brasilian favela chic. The friendly folks who run this place have been hosting Brasilian dance nights at various venues around town. But don't just come in to check out the posters; stay a while for the fantastic vegetarian friendly South-American and international cuisine at reasonable prices. 12 to 20 Euro.

- Casa Palenque, 130 rue St Maur (Métro: Parmentier), +33 1 43 38 12 27, [4]. Monday to Saturday, noon to 3pm and 7pm to 11pm. This somewhat upmarket Mexican caterer and restaurant places an emphasis on authenticity. It's one of the only places to go in Paris for real tamales. starters: around €6, mains: around €12.

Bastille
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Asie à la degustation

In rue de la Roquette near Place de la Bastille (Métro: Bastille) there are some small Asian shops, selling various dishes by weight, which provides the traveller an opportunity to sample at will: if you aren't sure about a particular dish just buy 50gr or so for tasting. White rice is available even though they do not display it, just ask for du riz blanc.

- Indiana Tex-Mex. The Place de Bastille location of this popular chain of Tex-Mex is worth mentioning at least because of its ability to draw a crowd. Of note also is the truth in advertising: this is Tex-Mex food prepared exactly as you would expect to find in say, Indianapolis Indiana.

- Blue Elephant, 43 rue de la Roquette (Métro: Bastille), +33 1 47 00 42 00, [5]. You'll pay at least 30 Euro, but it's worth it.. A much beloved Thai restaurant just off of Place de Bastille, this place is tiny, so book ahead.

- Suds, 55, Rue Charonne (Métro: Bastille or Ledru Rollin), +33 1 43 14 06 36, [6]. An interesting mix of cuisines from South America, Southern Asia, the South of France or any other southern place the chef takes an interest in.

- Le Café des Anges, 66 rue de la Roquette (Métro: Bastille), +33 1 47 00 63. A good place for salads.

- Le bar à Soupes, 33 rue de Charonne (Métro: Bastille), +33 1 43 57 53 79, [7]. A large selection of different soups (including some vegetarian options), a few new ones each day, served with your choice of an equally wide selection of breads and cheeses.

- Le Cyrano, 55 rue de la Roquette (Métro: Bastille). Menu: 15€.

Drink
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Oberkampf
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- Grenier, 152 rue Oberkampf (Métro: Menilmontant). An excellent but tiny dive bar with live bands upstairs in the hall some nights, but usually downstairs in the front window. This is a great place to hear Django Reinhartd-style jazz guitar playing (Jazz Manouche). A basic beer will set you back all of €2..

- Le Vin de Zinc, 25 rue Oberkamp, +33 1 48 06 28 23. Parisien bar-tops are almost consistently made of zinc, as is the one found at this lovely wine-bar, so you can spill your wine on it and it won't hurt anything.

- Chez Justine, 96, rue Oberkampf (Métro: Parmentier), +33 1 43 57 44 03. Close to the center of the Oberkampf nightlife zone, "Justine's place" functions as a restaurant with trendy versions French offerings (which get mixed reviews) during the early evening, but it's 10pm to 2am which really makes the place. Most of the room is filled with big wooden plank tables which are just the thing for for a lively conversation with friends, while the bar is comfy too, and attracts quite a crowd by the late evening. The decor is classic, understated, and classy. Draft beer at the bar is €3..

- Nouveau Casino et Café Charbon, 109 rue Oberkampf (Métro: Parmentier), +33 1 43 57 57 40. Right across the street from Justine's the New Casino keeps rocking until dawn both in the bar downstairs and the medium-size dance hall upstairs, making it the favorite among young Parisians, especially after the other places in the neighborhood have closed. The dance/concert hall features cutting-edge indi rock groups and cutting-edge electronica. The prices do reflect the hipness however. 5€ for a glass of beer.. (48.865788,2.377617)

- Ba-ta-clan, Boulevard Voltaire (Métro: Oberkampf), +33 1 49 23 96 33. Not long ago this place occupied the pinnacle of hipness which at which the Nouveau Casino now finds itself. It's been through a management change though, and doesn't have quite the booking power it once did. Still, you should stop by, especially in the afternoon as the café downstairs is outstanding, perhaps even better than in the old days.

- L'Ancienne Menuiserie, 29, rue des Trois-Bornes (Métro: Saint Ambroise), +33 1 43 14 98 91. With a young and hip clientele and music that is subdued, rather than screaming, L'Ancienne does well with those that want a break from the busy Rue Oberkampf.

- Mecano Bar, 99 rue Oberkampf (Métro: Parmentier).

- Le Scherkhan, 144 rue Oberkampf (Métro: Ménilmontant).

Bastille
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- Café du Passage, 12, rue de Charonne (Métro: Parmentier), +33 1 49 29 97 64. Sip and swirl some full bodied wines at this casual bistro that offers wine tastings every Saturday. (48.8525846,2.3744066)

- Entre Potes, 14, Rue de Charonne, +33 1 48 06 57 04. A good place to relax "amongst friends" as the name would suggest, thus making it a fairly representative parisien bar, with notable cocktails.

- Les marcheurs de planete, 73, Rue de la Roquette, +33 1 43 48 90 98. French wine bar with good prices and atmosphere and a friendly staff.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Hôtel Voltaire République, 10, boulevard Voltaire (Métro: République), +33 1 47 00 21 47, [8]. Located a few steps away from Republic Square. Local bakery, supermarket, laundry, & many other services are close to the hotel. All rooms are en-suite, with TV & direct dial telephone. WIFI is available in room.

- Hôtel Mondia, 22 rue du Grand-Prieuré (Métro: Oberkampf or Répubique), +33 1 47 00 93 44, [9].

- Hôtel de Nemours, 8, rue de Nemours (Métro: Parmentier), +33 1 47 00 21 08. Decent

- Auberge Internationale des jeunes, 10, rue Trousseau (Métro: Ledru-Rollin), +33 1 47 00 21 08 (fax: +33 1.47.00.33.16), [10].

- Hotel Campanile Paris Bastille, 9, Rue Chemin Vert (Métro: Chemin Vert), +33 1 43 38 58 08, [11].

- Bastille Hostel, 6, rue Trousseau (Métro: Ledru-Rollin), +33 1 47 00 62 00, [12].

- Grand Hotel de l'Avenue, 14, rue Rampon (Métro: République), +33 1 47 00 61 98 (hotel-avenue@wanadoo.fr), [13]. 73€ for a double, 64€ for single.

Mid-Range
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- Grand Hotel Français, 223 Boulevard Voltaire (Métro: Rue des boulets , Boulets Montreuil), +33 1 43 71 27 57 (fax: +33 1 43 48 40 05), [14]. The Grand Hotel Français Paris has been operated by the same family for over 100 years. They're quite proud of their hotel-operations lore handed down through the generations.

- Classics Hôtel, 131, rue de Charonne (Métro: Charonne), +33 1 44 64 34 34, [15].

- Grand Hôtel Nouvel Opera, 152, avenue Ledru-Rollin (Métro: Voltaire), +33 1 43 79 98 76. This little 3-star gets pretty much consistently positive reviews on line.

- Hôtel du Nord et de l'Est, 49, rue de Malte (Métro: République or Oberkampf), +33 1 47 00 71 70, [16]. Found among a cluster of two-star hotels off of Place de la République, the North and East has been in the process lately of doing some renovation, bringing some but not all of the rooms up to high three-star standards. Regardless of which type of room you book the place is quiet and cheerful and has WI-FI. It's a good value, and to top it off they often have vacancies when all of the hotels in more popular quarters are booked. 70/90€ singles/doubles..

- Hôtel Le Quartier République, Le Marais, 39, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud (Métro: Parmentier or République), +33 1 48 06 64 97, [17]. A budget hotel just a bit from République which offers a fitness Centre, and free WiFi, though "Le Marais" is a bit of a stretch. They tout themselves as funky and affordable place to stay, we'll leave it up to you to decide what to make of that.

- Le Général Hôtel, 5-7 rue Rampon, [18]. 3 star hotel near République and Oberkampf with mostly positive reviews. They've certainly put a certain amount of budget into graphic and interior design. Please note that the breakfast is not included.

Contact
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- Malte 38, 38 rue de Malte. Internet café with good rates.

District 12th Table of Contents

• Get in

By Métro

• See

Landmarks

Museums and Galleries

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Contact

Internet Cafés

Get in
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By Métro
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The newest Métro, line 14, serves Gare de Lyon and Gare de Bercy.

Line 1 crosses the arrondissement east-west serving Bastille, Gare de Lyon, Reuilly-Diderot, Nation, and Porte de Vincennes.

Line 8 crosses the arrondissement east-west serving Bastille, Ledru-Rollin, Faidherbe-Chaligny, Reuilly-Diderot, Montgallet, Daumesnil, Michel Bizot, Porte Dorée, and Porte de Charenton.

Line 6 arrives from the left bank, serving Bercy, Dugommier, Daumesnil, Bel-Air, and Picpus.

The RER-A passes east-west through the 12th serving Gare de Lyon and Nation.

See
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Landmarks
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- Jardin Yitzhak Rabin. Nestled in the centre of the Parc Bercy (below) is a lovely, and truly peaceful, garden with several waterworks and other high-quality landscape-art pieces. If you are one of the many people visiting the 12th on business it would be well worth an hour of your time between meetings and dinner to explore the mound, the fountain, and the bridges, and to watch children play in complete peace, much like the peace to which the garden's namesake dedicated his life.

- Bercy Village. For a taste of the French countryside, a visit to Bercy Village brings to life the spirit of market shopping inside Paris.

- Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy. Is an indoor sports arena designed by architects, seats around 17,000.

Museums and Galleries
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- Palais de la Porte Dorée, 293 avenue Daumesnil (Métro: Porte Dorée). Housed in an amazing Art Deco building, purpose-built for the 1931 Colonial Exhibition, featuring an elaborate frieze across the front facade that depicts the achievement of French overseas territories. It houses an Aquarium [1] and an Immigration Museum [2]. The Aquarium can be seen in about an hour and is popular with families with small children.

Do
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- Opéra Bastille, Place de la Bastille (Métro Bastille), [3]. One of the truly great venues for the performing arts anywhere in the world, Paris' new opera house actually managed to inspire some neighborhood protest during its planning and contruction. Pretty much everybody is a believer nowadays though. Check out the website for upcoming shows, it might even make sense to plan a trip to Paris around one.

- Promenade Plantée. If you were a city planner in one of the great cities of our Earth and you discovered that a railroad right-of-way had been abandoned and would never be used again what might you do? Perhaps if you knew your stuff you'd convert it into a 4 mile long park, about half of which is elevated above street level on the old rail viaduct. This long narrow park pretty much allows the visitor to walk in carfree bliss from Place de Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes.

- Parc de Bercy. Between the River Seine and the rail yards attached to Gare de Lyon and Gare de Bercy is a green space which would seem pretty huge if the 12th weren't also the home of the Bois de Vincennes. The park is a good place to hang out waiting for the line to form for sporting events and concerts at the Palais Omnisport.

- Bercy Expo.

- Bois de Vincennes, (Métro Porte Dorée or Porte de Charenton), [4]. There are many beautiful footpaths, a Buddhist Temple, and a lake with rowboats available for rental (about €10 as of Feb 2009). The lake has many different kinds of birds, and islands accessible by footbridge.

- Lafayettes Tomb (Cimitere de Picpus), 35 Rue de Picpus (Metro Nation), 01.43.44.18.54. Tu-Sa 2:30PM daily except. A must for anyone interested in the history of the American Revolution. This small cemetery includes three mass graves from the French Revolution plus a section that includes many of France's most noble families that lost members during the French Revolution and consequently have a continuing right to be buried there. In the farthest right hand corner is the tomb of General Lafayette the friend and fellow soldier of George Washington. Beside him is his beloved wife plus other members of her family, the de Noailles who were almost completely wiped out,during the French Revolution, because of their closeness to the Court. Since 1834 the American flag has apparently flown continuously over his grave, even, I was informed by the local expert, during the German occupation pf Paris during World War 2. A fascinating place well worthy of a visit.

Buy
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There are any number of shops catering to the needs of travellers in and around Gare de Lyon, where you can easily replace a piece of broken luggage or even buy a suit if you suddenly find yourself with a business appointment.

The archways of the former railroad right-of-way which now support the promenade plantée are home to trendy restaurants, designer's studios, and art galleries. Taken as a whole it's known as the Viaduc des Arts', and is well worth a stroll for those interested in art and design.

Another shopping highlight of the 12th is the amazing number of electronics and computer shops, mostly clustered around rue Charenton near the Jardin de Reuilly, as one would expect the intense competition keeps prices low (for Europe).

- Cyclades Electronique, 11 Bd Diderot, +33 1 46 28 91 54, [5]. Mon-Fri 9:30am to 6:30pm, Sat 1:30pm to 6:30pm.. A cut above the others, and on the other side of the station, Cyclades is the place to go if you need parts. Perhaps you have an out-of-production laptop which needs exactly 18.5 volts? They've got the charger. They've also got a full range of capacitors, resistors, transistors, chips, model airplane electronics and mechanics, tools, and much much more.

- New PC Charenton, 171 rue de Charenton, +33 1 43 07 02 30. Mon-Fri 10am to 7pm, Sat 9am to 7pm.. This is just one example out of the many computer shops in the immediate area, included here to help you find them all. Check the prices here, next door, and across the street. When you find the lowest bidder plunge forward and add them here please!

- Marché d'Aligre. Tu-Sa 8a-1p and 4p-7:30p, Su 8a-1p.. The cheapest open air market in Paris, on Rue d'Aligre. There's produce, carpets, clothes, antiques. Covered market, Marche Beauvau, is adjacent. North African influence, many food shops surround it.

- A Carnaval & Fetes, 22 Av Ladru Rollin, +33 1 43 47 06 08.

- During the spring time there is a carnival called the Foire du trône held in the Bois de Vincennes

Eat
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- l'Ébauchoir, 43-45 rue de Citeaux (at the corner of rue faubourg Saint Antoine), +33 1 43 42 49 31. A typical restaurant of the bo-bo (bourgeois - bohème) population of this district. Good traditional cooking with mid-range prices.

- Refuge, 54 Avenue Daumesnil (just around the corner from Gare de Lyon). This charming storefront bistro offers an adventurous take on traditional French cooking, and with a couple of good selections for vegetarians, including a €12 vegetarian menu. The indoor vineyard decor appeals for its artsy clutter; the only indications that the owner and chef is a former rugby star being the newspaper clipping on the wall and the almost hidden world championship medal behind the bar. €15.

- Le Train bleu, [6]. Located in the 1st floor of Gare de Lyon with colonial charm. Serves haute cuisine in amazing surroundings. Reservations strongly recommended

- Le Picotin, 35 rue Sibuet (Métro: Picpus, Bel-Air), +33 1 46 28 99 00, [7]. An excellent find in a quiet back street. Good value food, with a selection wide enough to offer a good choice whilst allowing the chef to concentrate on perfecting a small number of dishes. Warm, friendly welcome and faultless service. c€20 main courses.

Drink
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- Café L'Arrosoir, 75, Avenue Daumesnil (Métro: Gare de Lyon).

- Les Furieux, rue de la roquette. An alternative bar at the end of the Rue de la Roquette, punk, rock, metal, goth.

The Bastille area is quite well known for its many bars and clubs. Among them the Barrio Latino, a large latin music nightclub on the Rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine.

Sleep
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- Hotel de France **, 12 rue de Lyon 75012 Paris (Gare de Lyon), 33(0)1 43 43 0697, [8]. Located very close to Gare de Lyon and a short walk from Bastille, it is a decent budget hotel with single, double, triple and quadruple rooms. Convenient to visit Disneyland as well as to the sights of Paris. 63 - 175 euros.

Budget
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- Hostel Blue Planet, 5 rue Hector Malot (Métro: Gare de Lyon), +33 1 43 42 06 18 (fax: +33 1 43 42 09 89), [9]. This hostel, within a block of the Gare de Lyon station, has bunk beds in shared rooms sleeping 4-6 people. Some rooms have showers and toilets. A basic breakfast of pastries and hot drinks is included in the price. 25,00€ per bed. Towels and sheets extra..

- Hôtel Prince Albert, 38 boulevard Diderot (Métro: Gare de Lyon), +33 1 43 43 54 92 (fax: +33 1 43 47 39 50), [10].

- Hôtel de l'Aveyron, 5 rue d'Austerlitz (Métro: Gare de Lyon), +33 1 43 07 86 86 (fax: +33 1 43 07 85 20). checkin: 21.09.2008; checkout: 24.09.2008.

- Hôtel Royal Bel Air, 10 Avenue du Bel-Air, +33 1 43 45 26 00 (fax: +33 1 43 45 98 88).

- Corail Hotel, 23 rue de Lyon (Métro: Gare de Lyon), +33 1 43 43 23 54 (fax: +33 1 43 43 82 55), [11].

- Hotel Le Quartier Bercy - Square, 33, boulevard de Reuilly, +33 1 44 87 09 09 (fax: +33 1 43 07 41 58), [12]. Hotel Le Quartier Bercy Square, located in the 12th arrondissement, is right between Metro stations Dugommier and Daumesnil (Lines 6 and 8). It has easy access to Palais Omnisports at Bercy, Cours St. Emillon with its lively area of shops, restaurants, and bars, and train stations Gare de Bercy and Gare de Lyon. And with Line 14 at Bercy station just down the road, the rest of Paris is only minutes from you.

Mid-Range
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- Grand Hôtel Doré, 201 avenue Daumesnil (Métro: Daumesnil), +33 1 43 43 66 89 (fax: +33 1 43 43 65 20), [13]. Having opened its doors at the beginning of the 20th century The Grand Hotel Doré has been owned and operated by the same family ever since, giving the place plenty of character and quite a bit of charm. Guests tend to be a pretty even mix of business and pleasure travellers.

- Ibis Gare De Lyon Diderot, 31 Bis Boulevard Diderot (Métro: Gare de Lyon, use the side entrance of the station downstairs), +33 1 43 46 12 72, [14]. This particular branch of the Ibis chain is a bit more comfortable than most, especially worthwhile if you have just arrived at Gare de Lyon. The website has current price information, and links to their 650 sister hotels across Europe. Breakfast (10 Eur., until 10 am) is the pretty ordinary buffet fare.

- Hotel Le Quartier Bastille, Le Faubourg, 9 rue de Reuilly, [15]. The big draw at Le Quartier is the interior patio which really is as nice as advertised and is full of plants and an interesting designer fountain. The location is good for those looking for an easy stumble from the bars around Bastille.

- Hotel Palym, 4, rue Emile Gilbert, +33 1 43 43 24 48 (infos@hotel-palym.com, fax: +33 1 43 41 69 47), [16]. This nice little hotel is around the right price and probably has the closest possible access to the Air France airport buses.

- Hôtel de la Porte Dorée, 273, avenue Daumensnil, +33 1 43 07 56 97 (fax: +33 1 49 28 08 18), [17].

Splurge
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- Mercure Paris Gare de Lyon, 2, place Louis Armand (Métro: Gare de Lyon), +33 1 43 44 84 84 (fax: +33 1 43 47 41 94), [18].

- Sofitel Paris Bercy, 1, avenue Terroirs de France (Métro: Cour St-Emillion), +33 1 44 67 34 00 (fax: +33 1 44 67 34 01), [19].

Contact
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Internet Cafés
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- Les Meilleur des Mondes, 4 bis rue Michel Chasles (Métro: Gare de Lyon), +33 1 43 46 01 64 (fax: +33 1 43 46 02 52). Open 9am - 11pm Monday to Friday, 10am - 7pm Saturday and Sunday. Internet access and office applications.

District 13th Table of Contents

• Get in

On foot

By métro

By bus

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
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On foot
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The easy walk to the 13th arrondissement from the center of Paris (Île de la Cité) takes around 40 minutes, either through back streets or along the Seine promenade. It can be a very pleasant walk: you can walk across the Latin Quarter, for example, through the rue Mouffetard in the Paris/5th arrondissement.

By métro
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You can get to the 13th arrondissement using 3 metro lines:

Ligne 7 serves Gobelins' near the Manufacture des Gobelins, Place d'Italie, Tolbiac good entrance point for the Paris Chinatown, Maison-Blanche, and Porte d'Italie, Porte de Choisy and Porte d'Ivry; you will get to these three stations if and only if you take a train that goes to the Mairie d'Ivry direction. Other trains take another direction and leave Paris immediately after Maison-Blanche.

Ligne 6 serves Glacière, Corvisart, Place_d'Italie, Nationale, Chevaleret - near the avant-garde art galleries of rue Louise-Weiss, and Quai de la Gare, near the Bat-O-Far and other .

Ligne 14 serves Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand (near the new Bibliothèque de France), and the newest station in Paris, Olympiades, the new terminus.

By bus
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Ligne 27 Orange in color Ligne 47 Pink in color Ligne 64 goes from Gambetta to Place d'Italie. Turquoise/light green in color Ligne 67 Pink in color Ligne 83 Dark yellow in color

All of these lignes stop at Place d'Italie.

See
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- La Bibliothèque Nationale de France, [1]. The National Library preserves collections of historic documents of both French and international origin. It holds 5,000 Greek manuscripts. You can get a day pass to visit or choose to visit only the expositions the library hosts.

- La Butte aux Cailles. A little district within the district. Very charming little streets on a hill in the western end of the 13 district. Nice for lunching/dining activities. This is the place where the band "Mano Negra" was hanging around.

- Stade Charléty. The Stade Charlety is a massive multi-sport arena, hosting football (soccer), tennis, rugby and squash matches.

- Manufacture des Gobelins, 42, avenue des Gobelins, 33(0)1 44 54 19 33. Once the dye works for royalty, it is now a museum.

Do
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Stroll across the Seine on the Pont Simone de Beauvoir pedestrian bridge from the Bibliotheque Nationale to the Parc de Bercy (which is actually in the 12th district)

Buy
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- Les frères Tang, avenue de Choisy. The Tang brothers have the biggest Chinese grocery in Paris, occupying several multistory barracks-like buildings tucked into the Olympic housing project. They're known for giving away large balloons during Chinese New Year celebrations. They are one of the rare supermarkets to be open on Sundays.

Eat
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The southern part of the district, in the high-rise "Chinatown" area, is the good place to go if you like Chinese or Vietnamese food. Many outlets sell Vietnamese sandwiches; note, though, that the area is not the best for getting cheap, good quality Chinese food; Elsewhere the 13th has some other standouts.

- Sinorama, Avenue de Choisy at rue de Tolbiac. One of many Chinese places in the outer part of the Arrondissement

- Phở 14, (across from Sinorama). for Vietnamese soups, best known in the district.

- Chez Gladines, 5 rue des Cinq Diamants (On the Butte aux cailles). Big Basque salads and a lot of ambiance in this moderately low-budget restaurant. This place is almost always crowded on Saturday nights.

- le Temps des Cerises, 18-20, rue de la butte-aux-cailles (Métro: Place d'Italie), +33 1 45 89 69 48. If you are looking for quality French food, a large choice of good and affordable wine this is the place to go. This is what we can call a "restaurant populaire" (as opposed to other posh and expensive places around) with a friendly staff, a very nice atmosphere, no way to reserve a table, just show up and the "patron" will find a place for you (arrive before 8 if you don't want to queue up especially on week ends), shut down you mobile or you will be kicked out !!!. The "Boudin a la Normande" (blood sausage) is a must, you can also get very decent goose liver and other French speciality such as "Salade de Museau". 12€ to 20€ (with a sliding scale)..

- Green Garden, 20 rue nationale (Métro: Port d'Ivry), +33 1 45 82 99 54, [2]. East-Asian Vegetarian

- Au Banquier, 7 Rue du Banquier (Métro Campo-Formio), +33 1 43 36 73 46. Decoration is quite minimalist, but the northern african cuisine of this place is delicious.

- Sala Thaï, 13 rue des Frères d'Astier de la Vigerie (Métro Maison Blanche), +33 1 45 84 13 22. delicious and genuine Thai cuisine. complete dinner for approx. 35€, including beverages.

Drink
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- Batofar, 11 quai François Mauriac (Métro: Biblioteque François Mitterand or Quai de la Gare), +33 1 56 29 10 11, [3]. This little red lighthouse boat which hosts dance and chill electronic music and other multimedia cultured events has been one of the coolest spots around for some time. The dancefloor is in the hold, and the lounge on the upper deck. Of particular interest is the Sunday afternoon chillout/cookout event which spills out onto the quai (during nice weather).

- La Dame de Canton (La Guinguette Pirate), Port de la gare (Métro: Bibliothèque François Mitterrand or Quai de la gare), +33 1 53 61 08 49, [4]. Known for years as the Guinguette Pirate, this Chinese junk has recently been rechristened with her "maiden name" as their website puts it. The restaurant and bookings are still the same, with equal parts world music, chanson français and concerts for kids.

Sleep
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Budget
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All of the following hotels are located near Place d'Italie, where public transportation is excellent.

- Kyriad Italie Gobelins, 5 rue Veronese, + 33 1 47 07 20 90 (fax: + 33 1 45 35 25 27), [5].

- Hotel Ibis Paris Avenue d'Italie, 15 bis Avenue d'Italie..

- Timhotel Italie, 22 rue Barrault.

- Hôtel Verlaine, 51 rue Bobillot, +33 1 45 89 56 14.

- Jack's, 19 avenue Stéphen Pichon, +33 1 45 85 17 34. (a very quiet street). . Jean Genet died in this hotel in 1986.

Mid-Range
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- La Manufacture, 8 Rue Phillipe de Champagne, +33 1 45 35 45 25 (fax: +33 1 45 35 45 40), [6].

- Mercure Blanqui Place d'Italie, 25 boulevard Auguste Blanqui.

- Mercure Gobelins. 8 bis avenue de la Soeur Rosalie

- Holiday Inn Bibliotheque, 21 rue de Tolbiac, +33 1 45 84 61 61 (fax: +33 1 45 84 43 38).

- Holiday Inn Express Paris place d'Italie, 178 boulevard Vincent Auriol, +33 1 44 24 01 01 (fax: +33 1 44 24 07 07).

Splurge
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- Hôtel Villa Lutece, 52 Rue Jenner.

Contact
toc

District 14th Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

• Contact

Get in
toc

Metro 6 and RER B Denfert-Rochereau stop.

See
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- Les Catacombes de Paris (The Catacombes of Paris), 1 place Denfert-Rochereau (Métro: Denfert-Rochereau). open : Tu 11am - 4pm, W-Su 9am - 4pm. closed on Mondays and public holidays. One of the most eye-popping sights of Paris, the Catacombs represent a network of labyrinthine tunnels, first excavated in the Roman period, that now house the remains of over 6 million burials removed here from the various overcrowded cemeteries and charnel houses all over Paris in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Well worth a visit: the atmosphere is suitably morbid and gloomy (without being too scary), the dark tunnels containing neatly stacked piles of skulls and long bones. Admission €8, seniors €3.30, students 14-26 yrs €4, under 13s free,no credit cards.

- Parc Montsouris, boulevard Jourdan (RER Cité-Universitaire). Considered one of the most colourful Parisian parks, a local favourite, the Parc Montsouris was opened in 1878, having been designed by Alphand for the Baron Haussmann. A large man-made lake and waterfalls are surrounded by long stretches of gently sloping lawns. Bronze statues are to be found studded around the grounds, amongst the 1,400 trees, including such exotic varieties as the giant sequoia and the ginkgo. The park is featured in the film Cléo de 5 à 7. It is popular among families (there are two playground areas for children) and students.

- Cimetière de Montparnasse (Montparnasse Cemetary), 3 boulevard Edgar-Quinet (Métro: Edgar-Quinet, Raspail). open 16 March - 5 November: Mo - Fr 8am - 6pm, Sa 8.30am - 6pm, Su 9am - 6pm; 6 November - 15 March: Mo - Fr 8am - 5.30pm, Sa 830am - 5.30pm, Su 9.30am - 5.30pm. The burial place of existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre, feminist Simone de Beauvoir (both of whom lived nearby), musician Serge Gainsbourg, artist Man Ray, among others.

- Tour Montparnasse, [1].

Do
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Buy
toc

Eat
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There are a number of cheap eateries around Montparnasse, especially Breton crêperies. The district is also known for its traditional bistros.

- La Coupole, 102 boulevard du Montparnasse (Métro: Vavin), +33 1 43 20 14 20. open 8.30 am - 1 am, closed Sundays. The famous Art Deco brasserie, convenient for a quick meal before / after a train journey to / from Montparnasse station. Average plate €35-40, all cards accepted.

- Le Zeyer, Place d'Alesia (Métro: Alesia). open 8.30 am - 1 am. Another famous Art Deco-style brasserie. Average plate €20-40, all cards accepted.

- Zango, 58 rue Daguerre (Métro: Denfert Rochereau), +33 1 43 20 21 59, [2]. Named for the traveller's tree, used by nomads to guide their desert crossings, this "world food" restaurant has an atmosphere dedicated to travel and exploration. Their bookshelf is crammed with a huge selection of travel guides and magazines, grab one and enjoy over a delicious brunch. 13-15 Euro main course, 22-26 Euro set dinner ''menu''.

- Aquarius, 40 rue Gergovie (Métro: Pernety), +33 1 45 41 36 88. By all reports a nice casual 100% vegetarian restaurant with excellent hummus among other offerings.

- Le Moulin Vert.

- Le Severo.

- Les Grillades de Buenos Aires, 54 Rue de Montparnasse, 0143215674. 12 noon - 2pm lunch, 7:45-11 dinner, closed Sunday. Small and intimate Argentinian restaurant. Amazing steaks - everything about the food is wonderful. €28 per main.

Sleep
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Budget
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Mid-Range
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- Marriott Rive Gauche. A nice hotel and is well located between the St Jacques and Glaciere metro stations (no more than 2 blocks to each), and very convenient with a nearby grocery, patisserie for bread etc. near Glaciere and several cafés. Very friendly staff. €270/ night.

- L'hôtel du Lion, [3]. A lovely privately owned, 2 star hotel. On Place Denfert-Rochereau, near Montparnasse. Metro stations are nearby and it perfectly situated for sight-seeing. A small supermarket is nearby, as well as a street market, various friendly bars, and a nice scenery. From €70..

- Flats in Paris, [4]. Short term apartment rentals at affordable prices. €75 to €350..

- Hotel Sophie Germain Paris, 12 rue sophie germain 75014 Paris, +33(0)143214375, [5]. The Sophie Germain hotel is ideally located on the left bank of Paris. Near Place Denfert- Rochereau, just a few minutes away from Montparnasse train station and the Latin Quarter. Very easy access to events and exhibitions organised at Porte de Versailles and Villepinte. The Sophie Germain hotel will be your starting point to discover the beauties of Paris.

- Hotel Aiglon***, 232 boulevard Raspail, [6]. The hotel Aiglon is located in Montparnasse famous artists' neighbourhood. Bunuel and Giacometti stayed in this hotel which offers a vast view and beautiful light just next to the metro.

- Holiday Inn Paris Montparnasse***, 79 - 81 Avenue du Maine 75014 Paris, [7]. Only a couple of minutes from Montparnasse station and Montparnasse Tower, the hotel caters for both the business traveler and general visitors.

- Le Meridien Montparnasse 19 Rue du Commandant Mouchotte.

Nearest station - Gaite. Big American hotel with well sized rooms and amazing views. Mid-range. Excellent location. Just don't eat or drink in the hotel bars - extortionate. Plenty of brilliant bars and restaurants in the surrouding area, and a small supermarket next door.

Contact
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District 15th Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By metro

• See

Landmarks

Museums and Galleries

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Understand
toc

The 15th, the largest arrondissement of central Paris, remains heavily residential, up-market and quiet - not a great deal of obvious attractions for the traveller here, apart from the Montparnasse Tower (Tour Montparnasse). Some parts of the arrondissement are close to the Eiffel Tower which actually is in the 7th. Other sights include the Montparnasse Cemetery where Jean-Paul Sartre and Charles Baudelaire are buried amongst others, Theatre de la Gaite and Theatre du Montparnasse. Montparnasse Station (Gare Montparnasse) is a busy hub serving the south-west of France as well as Spain and Portugal. It is a real Parisian district with a vibrant and lively atmosphere.

Get in
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By metro
toc

See
toc

Landmarks
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- Parc des Expositions (Porte de Versailles), [1]. Paris' international exhibition centre (the 4th largest in Europe) has millions of visitors annually

- Tour Montparnasse (Montparnasse Tower), [2]. Tour Maine-Montparnasse (Maine-Montparnasse Tower), also commonly named Tour Montparnasse, is a 210-metre (689 ft) tall office skyscraper.

Museums and Galleries
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- Musée Pasteur (Pasteur Museum), Institut Pasteur, 25 rue du Dr-Roux. open Mo-Fr 2PM-5.30PM, closed weekends and public holidays, August. the Pasteur Museum is housed in the apartment where the great scientist spent the last 7 years of his life. Hardly touched since that time, the museum is full of personal memorabilia and scientific instruments. Pasteur is buried on the grounds in a flamboyant mosaic-decorated mausoleum. entry €3, students €1.50.

Do
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- Tapovan Paris, 9 rue Gutenberg, +33 1 45 77 90 59, [3]. This ayurvedic centre offers both treatment and professional training in various ayurvedic healing arts: hatha & nada yoga, reiki, ayurvedic massage, reflexologie, oil treatments (e.g. Shirodhara), etc. Those seeking greater calm, deeper therapy, or intense training may also take units at their center in Upper Normandy.

Buy
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- Galeries Lafayette (Galeries Lafayette), [4]. The Galeries Lafayette is a famous French department store company with a history dating back to 1893.

Eat
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- Le Pétel, 4 rue Petel (Métro: Vaugirard), +33 1 45 32 58 76. Intimate, delicious, and local traditional cuisine.

- Café Zinc-Zen, 114, rue de la Convention, +33 1 45 58 08 40. Small café with 2 seating areas - seats in the windows and a darker back room. Elegant but not expensive, great lunches/dinners, and superb crème brûlée for a night cap with coffee.

- Chez Geppetto, 69 rue St Charles, +33 1 45 75 84 15 (fax: +33 1 45 58 38 33). Small restaurant with delicious Italian specialities, mostly Sicilian. The menu offers much more than pasta and pizza. Very friendly owner. Complete menu for 31 euro.

Drink
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Sleep
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Budget
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- Aloha Youth Hostel, 1, Rue Borromée, +33 1 42 73 03 03, [5]. No membership card required.

- 3 Ducks Hostel, 6 pl. Etienne Pernet (near the Eiffel Tower), +33 1 48 42 04 05, [6].

Mid-range
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- Eiffel Seine, 140, Boulevard de Grenelle, +33 1 45 78 14 81 (fax: +33 1 45 79 46 96), [7].

- Hôtel Oceania Paris Porte De Versailles, 52 rue d'Oradour-sur-Glane, +33 2 98 44 38 38 (oceania.paris@oceaniahotels.com, fax: +33 2 98 43 69 69). €100-205.

- Campanile Paris XV - Tour Eiffel, 30 Rue Saint Charles / 21 Rue Sextius-Michel (2 mn from the Dupleix metro station - ligne 6, 2 mn from the Charles Michel metro station - ligne 10, and 5 mn from the RER C station - Champs de Mars), +33 1 45 78 61 33 (paris.toureiffel@campanile.fr, fax: +33 1 45 79 41 13). checkin: 7:00-11:00. English & Spanish spoken at reception. € 70-120.

- Hotel du Petit Louvre, 1 rue de Lourmel 75015 (Metro line 6 (Dupleix)), 33(0)1 45 78 17 12, [8]. 10 minutes from the Eiffel Tower.

- Hotel Baldi, 42 Boulevard Garibaldi 75015 (Metro lines 10 (Ségur) and 6 (Cambronne)), + 33 1 47 83 20 10, [9]. Between the Eiffel Tower and Montparnasse Station.

Splurge
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- Hotel Sublim Eiffel, 94 Boulevard Garibaldi, +33 1 40659595 (info@sublimeiffel.com, fax: +33 1 42730713), [10].

Contact
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District 16th Table of Contents

• Get in

By Métro

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid Range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
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By Métro
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See
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- Palais du Trocadéro. Great perspective on the Eiffel Tower and Left Bank.

- Musée Marmottan, 2 rue Louis-Boilly, 16th (Metro: La Muette), 01.44.96.50.33, [1]. 11am-9pm Tues; 11am-6pm Wed-Sun. Last entry 30 min before closing. Monet's best works are in this charming museum, which contains the largest Monet collection in the world as well as works by Renoir, Manet, Berthe, Caillebotte and Gauguin.

- Musée en Herbe, Jardin d'Acclimation, Bois de Boulogne (Métro: Les Sablons), +33 1 40 67 97 66, [2]. Monday through Sunday 10AM to 7PM.. With a teaching style based on fun and humour, the Musée en Herbe offers classes and games about art especially designed for children. Observation, imagination and identification games permit kids to discover the works of art and objects shown, at their own pace. The exhibits are all hands-on so kids can have a free reign in the museum, and if that's not enough there are workshops as well. 4€ for the exhibitions, €8 for the workshops, but add €2.70 for entrance to the garden. Some discounts are available..

- Jardin d'Acclimatation, [3]. The northwest corner of the Bois de Boulogne is occupied by the oldest operating amusement park in the world, the Jardin d'Acclimatation, which is mainly known for offering a wide range of amusements which are appropriate even for very small children. They have miniature roller-coasters for children as small as three years, and the usual range of pony rides etc.

Do
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The Bois de Boulogne is a park located along the western edge of the 16ème arrondissement of Paris, near the suburb of Boulogne-Billancourt. The Bois de Boulogne has an area of 8.459 km² (3.266 sq. miles, or 2,090 acres), which is 2.5 times larger than Central Park in New York, and 3.3 times larger than Hyde Park in London. At night time, the area welcomes a different scene, and becomes one of Paris' most prominent red-light districts.

Spectator sports:

- French Open [4] — The second of each year's four Grand Slam tennis tournaments is held over two weeks in late May and early June at Stade Roland Garros in the Bois de Boulogne. The venue is open for tours year-round whenever tournaments are not scheduled, and the French Tennis Federation operates its national museum of the sport, the Tenniseum [5], at the site.

- Paris Saint-Germain [6] — Football club currently playing in the top-level Ligue 1. Home ground is Parc des Princes. Ticket information is available online only in French [7]. WARNING: The Kop of Boulogne, at the Boulogne end of the ground, is one of the most notorious stands in world football, infamous for its large number of violent and racist supporters.

- Stade Français [8] — Rugby club in the Top 14, and a perennial title contender. Stade's traditional home ground is Stade Jean-Bouin, across the street from Parc des Princes, but at least three home matches a year are played at the country's largest stadium, Stade de France in the suburb of Saint-Denis. Ticket information is available online in English [9]. Note: Stade Jean-Bouin has been closed while a completely new stadium is being built on the site. The club will play most of its home games through the 2012–13 season at Stade Sébastien Charléty in the 13th arrondissement.

- Horse racing — Some of the world's best Thoroughbred racing can be seen at two venues in the Bois de Boulogne. Hippodrome de Longchamp [10], used exclusively for flat racing, hosts many of France's top races, including the internationally famous Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe on the first weekend in October. Hippodrome d'Auteuil [11] is used exclusively for steeplechase racing, and hosts many top-quality races in that discipline.

Buy
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Eat
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Budget
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- Carette, 4. Place du Trocadéro (Metro Trocadéro), +33 1 47 27 98 85. This Pâtisserie and Salon de thé also has great food. The salads are amazing, and there is delicious cakes for dessert. Big salads at €15.

Mid Range
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- La Butte Chaillot, 110 bis, avenue Kleber (Métro: Trocadero), +33 1 47 27 88 88 (buttechaillot@guysavoy.com), [12]. A Guy Savoy restaurant Mains at €22.

- La Gare Chaussée De La Muette.

- Le Malakoff, 6 place du Trocadéro, +33 1 45537527 (contact@le-malakoff.com). Just take the menu of the day

- Le Coq, 2 place du Trocadéro, +33 1 47278952. A hip and trendy modern brasserie where the 16th arrondissement's posh population meets

- Café Brassac, 37, ave. Kléber (close to Metro station Kléber), +33 1 45 53 21 63, [13]. Very nice cafe with good lunch and dinner. Lot's of people go their for business lunch

Splurge
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- L'Astrance (Alternative), 4 rue Beethoven, +33 1 4050 8440.

Drink
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- Totem, 17 Place du Trocadero, +33 1 47 27 28 29. noon-2a M-Su. Get a fantastic view of the Eiffel Tower from this restaurant-tearoom opposite the Champ de Mars. Just next to the Musee de l'Homme, there certainly are worse spots to grab a drink or two.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Best Western Hotel Victor Hugo, 19 Rue Copernic. Centrally located, this hotel offers clean rooms at affordable prices.

Mid-range
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- Hôtel Gavarni, 5,rue Gavarni, +33 1 45 24 52 82 (reservation@gavarni.com, fax: +33 1 40 50 16 95), [14]. In the heart of the Passy village and its fashion boutiques, the hotel Gavarni is fully air-conditioned and touts itself as haven of peace and refinement. It's the first independent hotel in Paris to have been awarded the European Ecolabel. Free WiFi.

- Mon Hotel, 1 Rue d'Argentine, +33 1 45 02 76 76. With a relaxed and intimate atmosphere, the Mon Hotel caters for those seeking a stylish base in central Paris.

- Hotel Eiffel Kennedy, 12 Rue Boulainvilliers, +33 01 45 24 45 75, [15]. This small hotel (33 rooms) offers all the basics that you would expect from a three star hotel. ~150.

Splurge
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- Le Parc, 55-57 Raymond Poincare, +33 1 44 05 66 66 (h2797@accor.com). A quiet small hotel with a wonderful courtyard just north of place and metro Victor Hugo in walking distance from the Arc de Triomphe, Eiffel tower and Trocadero. Wired internet at rooms. Rooms at €400..

Contact
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District 17th Table of Contents

• Get in

By Métro

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
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By Métro
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Line 3 has stops at Pereire, Porte de Champerret, and Wagram among others.

See
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Make sure you admire the many luxurious townhouses along the avenues, and relax in hidden small parks and squares sprinkled throughout the area. Many of Paris's upper class live in this district, and the architecture proudly shows this!

The Parc Monceau is one of Paris's best kept secrets, painted by Monet numerous times. It is a very elegant centre of green in the middle of cosmopolitan Paris. Make sure you check out the statues, entrance rotunda and the surrounding mansions. Thanks to Haussmann himself this precious slice of parkland was reserved for the enjoyment and leisure of the people of Paris. It is unusual in France due to its casual, informal "English" style planning, and is a contrast to other Parisian parks such as the classically laid out and formal Luxemburg Gardens and the Tuileries. Randomly placed throughout the park are scaled-down architectural replicas including an Egyptian pyramid, Dutch windmill, and a Chinese fort.

The Park has free Wi-fi for the internet-conscious.

Do
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- Marché Poncelet. Street market.

- Parc Monceau. Great place for a walk or picnic.

Buy
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- Marché des Batignolles, rue Lemercier at Rue des Moines. Tue-Sat 8:30am-1:30pm, 4pm-7:30pm. This covered market is known for its organic produce, and has fish and meat and a supermarket (G20) as well.

Eat
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The XVIIe arrondissemnt has some of the finest Algerian cuisine in Paris- if you want a twist on the French wine and food, go try some!

- A Joy in Food, 2 rue Truffaut (Métro: Place de Clichy), +33 1 43 87 96 79. Lunchtime only. Vegetarian home cooking which leans heavily into Laurel's Kitchen territory. It's not the Potager du Marais (see Paris/3rd_arrondissement), but it's a close runner-up.

- Jaipur, 25, rue des Dames (Métro: Place de Clichy), +33 1 42 94 13 14. noon-2:30pm 7pm-midnight. The brothers who operate this Indian/Mexican restaurant are actually from Sri Lanka, but that doesn't seem to impact their ability to deliver on both of their favourite ethnic cuisines. When asked why Mexican, the youngest of the three (and the usual waiter) explained "because we like it". You will too. €20.

- La Gaieté Cosaque, 6 rue Truffaut, +33 1 44 70 06 07. Traditional Russian food which runs heavily into various roasts and stews. This one is definitely for the carnivorous. After dinner the very Russian patron will surely coax you into enjoying a few too many of his fabulous vodkas. Save a little room for a glass of wine around the corner though... €20.

- Le Réfuge, 34 rue Lemercier, +33 1 42 93 46 16. until 5am. The drinks speciality here is an assortment of flavoured vodkas. The food, served in the spacious seating area in back is traditional, including a huge cheese platter.

- Le Bistral, 80 rue Lemercier, +33 1 42 63 59 61. Inventive cooking in the Spanish tradition and an intimate atmosphere are what distinguishes this little place from the dozens of bistros in the neighbourhood, but it's probably the genuinely caring, warm, service which will bring you back again and again. €35.

- l'Abadache, 89 Rue Lemercier (Métro: Brochant), +33 1 42 36 37 33. A French-English collaboration, the cooking is mostly in the French tradition but with a English cheddar and quite a bit of English inventiveness. Go for the polenta with sun-dried tomatoes. €30.

- Aux Couleurs du Monde, 118, rue Truffaut (Métro:Brochant), 01-43-87-34-55. A Laoasian/Honduran restaurant with a superb atmosphere, trendy decor, friendly service and good food. It's not hard to understand why it's one of the most popular places with Batignolles BoBos as well as people from outside of the quarter, at least judging by the number of taxis queued up late in the evening. €25.

- Brasserie Wepler, 14, Place de Clichy, 75018, +33.1.45.22.53.24, [1]. Excellent service, open late, menu from 27€. Seafood specialities.

- O Batignolles, 89, rue Truffaut (Métro: Brochant), +33 1-42-29-70-69, [2]. A new favourite among foodies in the area, O Batignolles wins high praise from reviewers not just for the inventive and ever changing menu, but also as a wine bar. €15.

- Niv's, 8, rue des Batignolles (Métro: Place de Clichy), +33 1 42 36 37 33. A Franco-Italian bistro with high-end Italian dishes.

Drink
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- Le Kloog, 63 rue Guy Môquet (Métro: Guy Môquet), +33 1 42 29 59 18. This cozy and well-designed little space specializes in wholesome organic treats. They also offer a vegetarian deli and free WiFi.

- James Joyce Pub, 71 Boulevard Gouvion St. Cyr., +33 1 44 09 70 32, [3]. Across from the Palais de Congres. Also serves standard Irish pub food. They screen Irish and English football and soccer.

- Sans Gêne, 112 rue Legendre, +33 1 46 27 67 82, [4]. The name means "Without annoyance", but given the shared toilet space perhaps it should be rethought. Still this second location for the popular Oberkampfian drinking spot has a lot going for it including clean trendy decor and more importantly free WiFi.

- Lush, 16 rue des Dames, +33 1 43 87 49 46. Grungy atmosphere and a well thought out selection of beers and tunes have made this a popular space with the bobo crowd. There's not much in the way of furniture, so it's standing room only when the place gets hopping. Of course that means you can fit more hipsters per square meter.

- Les Caves Populaires, 22 rue des Dames. until 2am. Another major bobo hangout, this one specialized in wine as opposed to the more beer oriented lush.

- Le Bar Belge, 75 avenue Saint Ouen (Métro: Guy Moquet), +33 1 44 70 06 07. Opened in 1954 as Paris was finally recovering from the occupation, the bar Belge serves dozens of different Belgian beers, ales, and lambics in locals-dominated, but very friendly room. They also have Vlaams Frites, the original "french" fries. Free Wifi.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Hotel Eldorado, Rue des Dames 18 (Métro: Place de Clichy), +33 1 45 22 35 21. The Eldorado, a former maison de rendez-vous, was once home to the kept women of the 19th century bourgeois. Now a very cute no star hotel, its charm more than makes up for what it lacks in amenities (who needs a TV in Paris anyway?). The staff is super friendly, the decor is garage sale chic, and there's a lovely courtyard that fills with neighbourhood hipsters on warm evenings. It also has a very good location & you can easily avoid the noise of Pigalle or Montmartre's high prices, but they're within stumble distance if you decide to explore. For early risers breakfast (€5, until 10 am) is served in the attached restaurant/bar. Some English spoken, especially for those who pet the cat sprawled across the reception desk. 23/55 € - 49/79 € (''singles/doubles''). Confirm rates before booking, though - their website is not frequently updated..

- Hotel Prince Albert Monceau, 9 Rue Tarbe. Free WiFi

- Hotel Elysées Parc Monceau***, 38, rue Cardinet 75017 Paris, +33 (0) 1 47 63 88 60, [5]. The Hotel Elysées Parc Monceau offers inviting charm in an outstanding residential district, just around the corner from Parc Monceau.

Mid-Range
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- Hôtel Acacias Etoile, 11, rue des Acacias (Métro: Argentine), +33 1 43 80 60 22 (hotel.acacias.etoile@wanadoo.fr, fax: +33 1 48 88 96 40), [6]. A clean, well run hotel in the side streets near the Place Charles de Gaulle. The staff is friendly, the rooms aren't large, but they are immaculate. €129/night for one person, without breakfast; breakfast is €12 extra.

- Hotel Ampère****, 102, avenue de Villiers - 75017 Paris, 33(0)1 44 29 17 17, [7]. One of the most inexpensive luxury 4 star hotels in Paris. A garden in the heart of the elegant 17th arrondissement, not far from the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Elysées.

Splurge
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Contact
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- Le Kloog, (see Drink listing). Free WiFi (but you have to pay for it)

- Le Bar Belge, (see Drink listing). Free WiFi (but you have to pay for it)

District 18th Table of Contents

• Get in

By Métro

Stations of note

Lines

• See

Landmarks

Museums and Galleries

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
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Many of the hotels of the 18th are within walking distance of Gare du Nord, so if you are arriving from Britain, Belgium, or the Netherlands, consider walking or taking a cab should you arrive at night or with baggage.

By Métro
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From other parts of Paris, your best bet is to arrive by Métro. The 18th is primarily served by the Métro 4 and 12 lines from the centre of town, or the 2 from the east and west.

Stations of note
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- Abbesses The station is fairly high up the slope of the hill, and the line is fairly deep underground, so getting up and down is part of the fun either in a seven-story spiral staircase decorated from top to bottom with murals by local amateur painters, or in one of two high-capacity modern elevator. If you have time and good knees the choice is clear.

Lines
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Line 2 stops at stations from west to east: Place de Clichy, Blanche, Pigalle, Anvers, and Barbès-Rochechouart.

Line 4 has stops at stations from south to north: Barbès-Rochechouart and Chateau Rouge.

Line 12 has stop at stations from south to north: Pigalle, Abbesses

See
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Landmarks
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- Sacré-Cœur (La Basilique du Sacré Coeur de Montmartre), (Place de Parvis du Sacré Coeur / rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barrre, ''Métro: Abbesses / Anvers'',), [2]. Ppen daily 6AM - 11PM. This wedding cake-white church rises visibly above the northern parts of Paris. The striking building, with its towers and white onion dome (83 m high), was built in the years between 1875 and 1914 on the birthplace of La Commune, officially as an act of penitence for the sins committed during the civil war in which thousands of Communards were executed, as well as for the bloodshed of the 1870-1871 Franco-Prussian war which followed. A number of prominent businessmen put up the money, and a dizzying combination of architects worked to put together the mock Romano-Byzantine extravaganza. Consecration followed in 1919. The view over Paris from the dome and from the square before it (200 m above sea level) is unsurpassed, apart from that enjoyed at the Eiffel Tower (50 km on a clear day). For the athletic traveller there are stairs from several directions to the top of the hill; otherwise there is also a funicular which runs every few minutes during the daytime from Place St. Pierre. Follow the signs that say "Funiculaire De Montmartre" (more info http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montmartre_funicular). Beware that the guards don't like it if they catch you taking pictures inside and will even yell "No photo!" and chase you down if they see you with a camera. *Be warned: along the lower steps leading up to church, groups of mostly young men gather and reach toward you with a small string, offering to loop it round your finger. Attempts to brush them off will often be met by claims of "No, this is for the church." They will then demand money for the bracelet they make for you, offering it "at a discount" of up to 20 Euro. Admission charge; located at the summit of the hill.

- Cimetière de Montmartre (Montmartre Cemetery), rue de la Barrière Blanch (Métro: Place de Clichy). There are a number of famous occupants, but the real reason to visit this cemetery is to see the ornate tombstones, sculptures, and other sometimes macabre, sometimes touching memorials Parisians have left here for their dead.

- Le Moulin Rouge, Pl. Blanche (Métro: Blanche), [3]. With two shows a night, this turn-of-the-20th century burlesque palace offers a big production choreographed dance show interspersed with comedians, jugglers, and magicians. The show is more than bilingual, actually playing up the U.S. 4th infantry's involvement in the libération for the sake of the large number of Americans in the audience. If you want to spend more you can have dinner there. It's not cheap: the 9PM show costs 95 Euro and the 11PM show costs 89..

- Place Pigalle. On the border with the 9th, The sleaze of Blvd. de Clichy between Pl. Pigalle and Pl. Blanche can provide a moment of distraction. Be warned if you are male it is better to do this in the company of a female fellow traveller, as the clubs often send the girls outside to attempt to physically drag passing men off of the street. These strip clubs are big ripoffs. They tempt you with a free drink for 10euro entry; once in the girl who starts dancing orders a couple of drinks (Red Bull) and then before you realise you are presented with a bill ranging from 500 to 700 euros. They have these big black bouncers who threaten/manhandle you till you arrive at some settlement with them. The whole of Pigalle is a rip off. PLEASE AVOID. The police know about these places but nothing is done. AVOID PIGALLE CLUBS.

- Artists' Square, place du Tertre. Numerous artists paint portraits of tourists and also sell their paintings.

Museums and Galleries
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- Espace Dali, 11 rue Poulbot (place du Tertre) (Métro: Anvers, Abbesses, Bus 54, 80, Montmartrobus, Funiculaire - depart from métro Anvers), +33 1 42 64 40 10 (fax: +33 1 42 64 93 17), [4]. Open daily 10AM - 6:00PM (July and August 10AM 9.30PM). Guided tours 3PM. A fantastic and undeservedly little-known collection of the great Surrealist artist's often overlooked sculptural works. Those travelers seeking a more authentic experience should be warned that the majority of works here are reproductions, and that this "museum" is more appropriately considered as a for-profit, tourist-oriented homage to the artist rather than a carefully curated collection of original work. To find it, head up to Sacré-Cœur and stand facing it and take a left. Keep your eye out for small Dali signs. Open on Sundays. admission €8, discounts available.

Do
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- Cooking with Class (13), 21 rue custine, [5]. Cooking Class. Hands on French Cooking Classes in a relaxed atmosphere with an experienced French chef. 4 hours of fun, including; Market visit, cheese and wine tasting, 5 minutes from the sacre-coeur in the heart of Montmartre.

- Môm'artre, 44 rue Joseph de Maistre, +33 1 42 28 82 27, [6]. An arts center intended primarily for kids (Môme means kid) the Môm'artre features workshops for kids and adults, hosted by neighborhood artists.

Buy
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- Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen (Clignancourt Flea Market), Porte de Clignancourt (Métro: Porte de Clignancourt), [7]. open 7AM - 7PM, Sa, Su, Mo. Widely-acclaimed as the largest flea market in all of Europe, in existence since 1885, this sprawling bazaar is made up of both permanent stalls and temporary stands (over 2,000 of them!), arranged in winding, sometimes chaotic arcades, over 10 miles of walkways, and over 10 differently-themed sub-markets. Everything from fine antiques through to collectible kitsch and brig-a-brac. Big on retro fashion also. Very popular with tourists, making it more difficult here to find a real bargain - but it's always worth looking! Convenient, competitive shipping is available at the market to send your precious finds back home all over the world. Be prepared to bargain!

- Ouistitipop, 19 rue Ramey (Métro: Chateau Rouge), +33 1 42 58 03 54, [8]. Tuesday through Saturday 10AM to 6PM. New and used kids' clothing, toys, strollers and furniture. They take consignments too.

- Thibault van der Straete, 30, rue Durantin, 01 42 54 83 32. Clothing boutique featuring designs made of the rare and luxurious alpaca wool. His soft and sumptuous mens and womens designs are a favourite of those who are enchanted with ethno-chic.

- Spree, 16, rue La Vieuville, 18th, 01 42 23 41 40. Hip and trendy bazaar that features designs and clothes from all around the world. Its large space also hold artist exhibitions.

Eat
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Budget
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- Nawab, 174, rue Ordener (Métro: Guy Môquet), +33 1-46-27-85-28, [9]. every day from noon to 2PM and 7PM to 11PM. This Indian and Pakistani restaurant is usually packed especially for lunch so be sure to call ahead and reserve a table. One of the reasons is that if you ask them to spice it up "like in Pakistan" they actually will. €15.

Mid-Range
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- le Square Marcadet

- La Petaudiere, rue Poulbot. Piano bar on rue Poulbot - tasty food, nice ambience and excellent good piano music (prepare some coins for the pianist).

- Le Buffet, 18 Rue des Trois Freres. unpredictable. Tasty, homey French food. It's a family place, I think. Lunch menu is around 12 euro (can be had until 8 p.m), dinner one is 17.

- Au Grain de Folie, 24 Rue de la Vieuville, +33 1 42 58 15 57. unpredictable. A one-woman operation with some mixed reviews, but apparently when she gets it right it's just about the best dining experience you'll ever have. Booking ahead by 24 hours is suggested.

- La Taverne de Montmartre, 25 rue Gabrielle, 75018, +33 1 46 06 88 48. Small restaurant with a nice rustic decoration, just bellow the artist's square, place du Tertre. Relaxing place, not overloaded with tourists. Excellent foundue offered by 17 euro per person (as of October '08), including a salami salad for starters.

- Le Refuge des Fondues, 17 rue des Trois Frères, 75018, +33 1 42 55 22 65. Fondue restaurant for the young people: menu for 17 euro, including wine served in a baby bottle, appetizers, the foundue itself (cheese or meat), and dessert.

- Cafe des Deux Moulins, 15 rue Lepic, 75018. A popular destination for those who love the film Le fabuleaux destin d'Amelie Poulain, yet some locals still come here. Interior preserves the movie set. Great for lunch.

Splurge
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- Le Basilic, 33 Rue Lepic, 75018 Paris, +33 01 46 06 78 43 (fax: +33 01 46 06 39 26), [10]. Very nice atmosphere and service. Great food, and good selection of wines. Starters 7€-11€, main courses 15€-26€.

Drink
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- Truc Café, 58, rue de Poteau, 101 42 52 64 09. A classic French wine bistro filled with young trendy singles.

- Just BE, 46 rue Caulaincourt (Métro: Abesses), +33 1 42 55 92 42, [11]. A trendy little bistro with a nice enclosed terrace, the Just BE (named for owners Brigette and Elsa) is a nice place to settle in for a couple of hours to watch people pass by on the lovely tree-lined rue Caulaincourt.

- Olympic Café, 20 rue Léon (Métro: Chateau Rouge), +33 1 42 52 42 63, [12]. Run as part of the Laboratoire Multi-culturel populaire the Olympic Café is one of the few places in Paris where you can reliably find avant-garde jazz, making it at least spiritually a descendant of the club where the Art Ensemble of Chicago were resident for 5 years or so in the early '70s. In addition to jazz they book music from around the world especially Africa and the Caribbean.

- Le Divan du Monde, 75 rue des Martyrs (Métro: Pigalle), +33 1 42 52 02 46, [13]. A fairly major venue for indi-rock, hip-hop, and other concerts. The prices are usually pretty good and the size of the venue and decor are great.

- La Boule Noire, 120 Boulevard Rochechouart (Métro: Pigaille), +33 1 49 25 81 75‎, [14]. A small venue which is decorated to resemble a 20s speakeasy but which none-the-less has hosted a range of musicians from local singers to major arena acts.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Hôtel Bonséjour, 11, rue Burq (Metro: Blanche), +33 1 42 54 22 53. The hands-down winner in value for price at the low end, the Bonséjour offers 34 spartan but immaculately cleaned rooms on 5 floors. Singles with no shower start at 22 Euro, or 38 Euro with a shower. The shower downstairs cost 2 Euro, with no breakfast..

- Hotel Sofia, 21 rue de Sofia (Metro: Barbès-Rochechouart), + 33 1 42 64 55 37. The rooms are simple, but look comfortable enough, and the street seems to be a quiet one for Montmartre. As a little bonus, all of the rooms have a shower. Singles start at 50 Euro, plus 3 Euro if you want to watch TV, but you're in Paris, so why would you do that? Breakfast is 3.50 Euro..

- Plug-Inn Hostel, 7 Rue Aristide Bruant (Métro: Blanche), +33 1 42 58 42 58. A small and inexpensive but clean and well-located hostel. Free wifi, but the signal is weak in the rooms. Free breakfast.

Mid-Range
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- Ibis Montmartre, 1 rue Caulaincourt (Métro: Place de Clichy), +33 1 55 30 18 18, [15]. The rooms are a little small, but this offering of the Ibis chain is up to the usual high standard of cleanliness and service. Of course if you need a tooth brush you can find it in the vending machine downstairs. Reception is staffed around the clock for late arrivals. Ibis always prices their offering a few Euro cheaper than the cheapest independent two-star in the area, in this case 72 Euro for a single..

- Adagio Paris Montmartre, Place du Théatre de l’Atelier, +33 1 58 21 55 84, [16]. This "Aparthotel" opens out onto a peaceful interior garden.

- Hotel des Arts, 5, rue Tholozé (Métro: Blanche), +33 1 46 06 30 52. Consistently getting the highest possible reviews in it's price-range, this well-located hotel was entirely renovated since 2000. The rooms upstairs are said to have fantastic views, but at least one reviewer online warns of being bumped because of over-booking. Singles start at 75 Euro..

- Hotel Eden Montmartre, 90, rue Ordener (Métro: Jules Joffrin), +33 1 42 64 61 63. A basic, but nice two-star, the Eden is on the far side of the hill of Montmartre from the city, and that can be a good thing if you are looking for a more authentic view of Parisiene life. Singles start at 85 Euro..

- Timhotel Montmartre, 11, rue Ravignan (Metro: Abesses), +33 1 42 55 74 79, [17]. This cute, very well kept two-star is closer to a three-star in quality and price, it's just that the rooms are on the small side. Some of the rooms in the upper floors have fantastic views of the city. Singles start at 130 Euro..

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- Terrass Hotel, 12 rue Joseph-de-Maistre (Metro: Place de Clichy), +33 1.46.06.72.85 (TerrassILA@ila-chateau.com, fax: +33 1.44.92.34.30), [18]. Excellent four star hotel in Montmartre with 98 rooms, en-suite bathrooms, air-conditioning, Wi-Fi, good restaurant, business facilities. The roof-top restaurant with fantastic views of Paris is open May to September. €280-410. (48.88661,2.33284)

- Kube Hotel, 1-5 Passage Ruelle Paris, +33(0)1 42 05 2000, [19]. One of the most stylish and atmospheric hotels in all of hotels, the Kube hotel exudes a high tech and luxurious decor. All the rooms come equipped with individual air-conditioning, digital door opening, multifunction computer (DVD, CD, TV screen), cable TV, ADSL Internet connection, deposit box, mini bar, and fully equipped bathroom. As its name might suggest, the rooms feature some sort of cubism design and even the bedside tables look like ice cubes. Go out at night in your very own hotel, with a DJ spinning in the bar nightly, as well as being Paris's first ever ice bar. (48.8864905440121,2.3588204383850097)

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District 19th Table of Contents

• Get in

By Métro

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
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By Métro
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The main stop is Porte de la Villette on line 7.

See
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- Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie (City of Science and Industry), 30 avenue Corentin-Cariou (Métro: Porte de la Villette), +33 1 06 10 77 50. Opened in 1986 and continuously upgraded, this attraction draws over 7 million visitors a year who come to explore the world of science, technology and future possibilities. Includes the Louis Lumière 3D cinema.

- Cité des Enfants, Cite des Sciences et de l'Industrie 30 av Corentin-Cariou, 19th Paris (Within the building of the Cité des Sciences), 01-40-05-12-12. An interactive science museum for children with the aim of arousing their curiosity, answering the questions they ask and providing quality time for exchanges with parents or teachers.

- Canal de l'Ourcq, 13 Quai de la Loire Bassin de la Villette, Paris, 75019, +33 (0)1 4239 1500. Built in the 19th century by Napoléon to provide Parisians with drinking water for the city. On sunny days, tourists can cruises along the canal or kayak the length.

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- Buttes-Chaumont, Rue Botzaris Paris, 75019. Popular city escape for nature lovers and walkers who can spend hours wandering around this lush green paradise. Biggest, most hilly and least touristy park in Paris, here you still find a real Parisian atmosphere, far from the meddling international crowds of the city's centre. Climb on top of the hill and overlook the north of Paris with the Montmartre hill right in front of you. The park has an almost enchanted feel, with its waterfall, from a natural spring deep underground, stream, lake and it's steep cliff, topped with a 'temple' which can only be reached via a suspension bridge. A true oasis.

- Les 400 Coups, 12 bis rue de la Villette (Métro: Jourdain), [1]. Wed-Sun 10h30am to 6pm. A restaurant for parents and kids, closed to Buttes-Chaumont. Home cooking and organic products.

- Cafezoïde, 92 bis Quai de la Loire (Métro: Crimée), [2]. Wed-Sat 10am to 6pm. A café for kids, the Cafezoïde a fully weekly calendar of events for kids from 2 to 16 years old. An English-language sing-along happens on Thursday afternoons at 4PM.

- Cité de la Musique, 221, Avenue Jean-Jaurès Paris, 75019, +33 1 4484 4600, [3]. Music musuem that focuses on the culture, the listening and the learning of music. With headsets, visitors can enjoy listening and learning about the history of music.

Buy
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Eat
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- Au Boeuf Couronné, 188 av. Jean-Juarès, 19e, Paris, 75019, 01-42-39-44-44. Charming and laidback, this restaurant serves quality food alongside a somewhat old fashioned decor, (think hard leather chairs etc). All portions were incredibly generous and the service was friendly and warm.

- Cafe de la Musique, 213 av. Jean-Jaurès, 19e, Paris, 01-48-03-15-91. Its varied selection of music is what draws the crowds here en massse, at any given night you're likely to hear soulful jazz tunes, or a hip DJ spinning robotic techno. Under chef Alain Podou's watch, the food here is sophisticated, yet light, think lobster-studded risotto and brochettes of shrimp with spinach. Highly recommended.

- O'Kay Café. A spacious restaurant and crêperie occupying the lower floor of a former warehouse space and now dormitory across the canal from the Holiday Inn.

- el molino, 181 Avenue Jean Jaurès, [4]. Incredibly slow service, so be prepared for a wait, but it's well worth it. The food is amazing, Chilean with a little bit of a French twist. Argentinean dishes are also available. About 20 euros for dinner.

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- La Cascade, 2, place Armand-Carrel. Quiet bar that serves its beers cold and has an extensive wine list.

- Péniche Antipode. A barge in the Canal d'Ourq hosting magic acts and music.

- Péniche Anako. Another Canal d'Ourq barge, this one specializing in shows celebrating cultures from around the world.

Sleep
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- Holiday Inn Express Canal d'Ourq, (métro: Crimée).

Budget
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- St Christopher’s Inns Paris Hostel (Paris Hostel), 68-74 Quai de la Seine, 75019, Paris, +33 1 40 34 34 40 (paris@st-christophers.co.uk, fax: +33 140 343 440), [5]. checkin: 2PM; checkout: 11AM. A brand new purpose built hostel in Paris opened in 2008. Located on the Bassin de la Villette. €22.

Mid-Range
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- Hotel Crimee, 188, rue de Crimée. Close to the Metro subway, the hotel boasts a quick and easy connection to downtown Paris.

Splurge
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Contact
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District 20th Table of Contents

• Get in

By Métro

By Bus

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

• Stay safe

• Contact

Get in
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By Métro
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Two main Metro stations on line 3: Gambetta and Père Lachaise. A more lively entrance, though far from the famous Pere Lachaise cemetery is through the Alexandre Dumas station on Line 2.

By Bus
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Bus no. 76 connects Rue de Bagnolet to the heart of Paris including Bastille and the Louvre.

See
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- Cimetière du Père Lachaise (Père-Lachaise Cemetery), main entrance: boulevard de Ménilmontant (Métro: Père-Lachaise), [1]. open 16 March-5 November: Mo-Fr 8 am - 6 pm, Sa 8.30 am - 6 pm, Sunday & holidays 9 am - 6 pm; 5 November-15 March: Mo-Fr 8 am - 5.30 pm, Sa 8.30 am - 5.30 pm, Sunday & holidays 9 am - 5.30 pm. Probably the most visited graveyard in any Western city, the vast Père-Lachaise features literally thousands of often elaborately-decorated graves separated by narrow lanes and avenues. The roll-call of famous burials includes: Chopin, Champollion, Sarah Bernhardt, Edith Piaf, Oscar Wilde, Delacroix, Bizet, Proust, Balzac, Colette, Molière and Jim Morrison of The Doors. Free.

Do
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Buy
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Eat
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- Lou Pascalou, 14 Rue des Panoyaux, +33 (0)1 4636 7810. Well hidden but worth seeking out, this unassuming restaurant serves happily inexpensive good food.

- Aux Becs Fins, 44, boulevard de Menilmontant, 01 47 97 51 52. Good, serious food for those that are looking for a meal with substance. With dishes like stuffed cabbage and calf's head, it's a guarantee that you will leave full to the brim, but satisfied.

- Le Lion Indomptable, 86 Rue Réunion, [2]. A small place that serves excellent Cameroonian and Senegalese food. The chef/waiter is a character and will keep you entertained. About 15 euros for dinner.

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- Flèche d'Or, 102 bis rue de Bagnolet (Métro: Porte de Bangnolet), [3]. An old train station which has been transformed into a hip, popular night club.

- La Miroiterie, 88 rue Ménilmontant (Métro: Ménilmontant), [4]. A squat that offers interesting concerts and exhibitions. There is also a free shop, where you can both take and bring second-hand clothes, books, toys, and more.

- Les Trois Arts, 21, rue des Rigoles (Métro: Jourdain), +33 1 43 49 36 27, [5]. 5pm-3am daily. This little corner bar which feels like it's been there for at least a century hosts ethic, folk and jazz music most nights in the basement.

- La Maroquinerie, 23, Rue Boyer (Métro), +33 1 40 33 35 05, [6]. It's a bar/café/restaurant upstairs and a music club (mostly indi rock) downstairs. As of this writing the Maroquinerie is one of the most happening indi venues in Paris (along with the Fleche d'Or).

- La Belle Villoise, 19,21 rue Boyer, +33 146360707, [7]. An underground, and thus hipper alternative to La Maroquinerie next door.

- Gambetta, 104 rue de Bagnolet (Métro: Alexandre-Dumas or Gambetta), +33 1 43 70 52 01. All things Jamaican: reggae, dub, jazz, etc.

- Goguette, 73 rue du Bagnolet (Métro: Alexandre-Dumas), +33 1 46 59 00 96, [8]. A mainly Latino-American club which also hosts the up-and-coming of chanson français (French song).

- Jawad K-Fé, 114 rue de Bagnolet (Métro: Alexandre-Dumas or Gambetta), +33 43 67 73 35. World music

- Le Lion Indomptable, 86 rue de la Réunion (Métro: Alexandre-Dumas), +33 1 44 93 04 09. This Camarouni restaurant hosts touring acts from Africa, and local African artists.

Sleep
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Budget
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Mid-Range
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- Hôtel Ermitage, 42, Bis rue de l'Ermitage. A small but intimate hotel that showcases some great views from its rooms.

Splurge
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Mama Shelter on 109, Rue de Bagnolet (http://www.mamashelter.com/) is a designer hotel with very comfortable rooms and wi-fi in all rooms.

Stay safe
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The 20th arrondissement has changed a lot since the early 2000s. While some areas remain shiftly underprivileged and not always very welcoming, most parts of the 20th are quiet, socially mixed neighbourhood with many families.

General large city appropriate safety precautions are advised, especially if visiting late in the night.

Contact
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District La Défense Table of Contents

• Get in

By métro

By train

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

Get in
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By métro
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- La Défense (ligne 1, and RER line A)

- Esplanade de la Défense (ligne 1)

Note: Both stations are in zone 3, but can also be accessed using a T+ ticket or a zone 1-2 only pass.

By train
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La Défense can be reached on RER A, Transilien L, Transilien U, tramway T2, station La Défense. It can be very confusing but 'Les Quatres Temps' is color coded. There are many maps around the shopping center.

See
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- Grande Arche de la Defense, 1 Le Parvis de La Défense, +33 (0)1 49 07 27 27, [1]. A high-rise building that looks more like hollow cube than an actual arch, has a viewing platform on its top. Entrance fee includes the various small art exhibitions of more or less unknown artists on the upper floor as a "bonus". Definitely recommended for the view. Lines tend to be short. € 7.50.

- Skyscrapers in all shapes and forms. Driving - and walking - around the area can be visually stimulating, if you find pleasure in modern glass-and-steel construction.

Do
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Buy
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- Les 4 Temps, 15 Le Parvis de La Défense, +33 (0)1 47 73 54 44, [2]. The "Quatre Temps" shopping mall, which when constructed was the largest shopping centre in Europe, has numerous big name as well as small stores, several cinemas (showing French and subtitled foreign movies) as well as a large supermarket and grocery store. It is accessible from an entrance to the left of the "Grande Arche" or via the metro station. 230 stores(Auchan, C&A, Darty, Virgin, Zara, Go Sport, H&M, Uniqlo, Toys’R’Us), 16 movie theater screens, 40 restaurants.

Eat
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Besides the 40+ food and snack places at the 4 Temps, rue de Bezons has a few budget eateries, including a good bakery, a couple of Turkish joints and a McDonald's that normally stays open until midnight.

The La Coupole underground gallery, accessible through exit G of the metro station, is somewhat depressing but convenient for its restaurants and express cafés.

- Côté Parvis (Hôtel Hilton), 2, pl de la Défense, +33 1 46 92 10 10, [3].

Drink
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Sleep
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The area around Place Charras, in Courbevoie is a short bus ride or a 15-minute walk away from the metro. It has a few hotels such as a Mercure and the basic but moderately priced hotel-residence Citéa, which hosts foreign students from the Alliance Française in Paris.

- Hotel Mercure Paris La Defense 5, 18-30 rue Baudin, Place Charras, +33 (0)1 49 04 75 00, [4].

- Citéa La Défense Place Charras, 1, rue de Bitche, +33 1 56 37 72 00, [5].

- Renaissance Paris Hotel La Defense, 60 Jardin de Valmy, +33 (0)1 41 97 50 50 ‎, [6].

- Hotel Novotel Paris La Défense, 2 Boulevard de Neuilly, +33 (0)1 41 45 23 23, [7].

Contact
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