SEKAI Explorer Guide Rome (2011)

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Contributor

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Table of Content:

• Districts

Norrmalm

Östermalm

Gamla Stan

Södermalm

Kungsholmen

Northern and Western Suburbs

Southern and Eastern Suburbs

Central Rome

Outskirts

• Understand

History

Background Reading

Get In

By Plane

Public Airport Transportation

Taxi

Train

Bus

From Ciampino Airport

Private Airport Transportation

By Train

By Car

By Ship

Ferry Services

• Get around

Roma Pass

By Car

By Taxi

On Foot

By public transport (ATAC)

Bus

Hop on or Hop off Buses

Tram

Metro

Actual WIPS

By commuter rail

On a moped

On a bicycle

• See

Ancient Rome

Catholic Rome

The Seven Hills of Rome

Museums

Just walking around

The Piazzas

Overlooked Places

Viewpoints

Rome for kids

• Do

Events

• Learn

Work

Talk

• Buy

Factory outlets

• Eat

Pizza

Ice cream

Vegetarians

Kosher dining

Pricing

• Drink

Coffee

Wine and water

Before dinner

Clubbing & Night Life

Gay travellers

• Sleep

Camping

• Contact

Respect

• Stay safe

Pickpocketing

Tourist scams

Emergencies

• Cope

Embassies and consulates

Get Out

Districts

Central Rome

Rome can be divided into several districts. The so-called historical centre (centro storico) is quite small, only around 4% of the city's area. This is mainly made up of Old Rome and Colosseo. Districts are explained below:

Modern Centre
Where many of the hotels are, as well as shopping and dining galore along the Via Veneto; home to the Quirinale, Trevi fountain, Barberini, Castro Pretorio, and Repubblica areas.

Old Rome
The centre of the Roman medieval and Renaissance periods, with beautiful plazas, cathedrals, the Pantheon, and plenty of laid-back dining; includes the Navona, Campo de' Fiori, and the Jewish Ghetto neighbourhoods.

Vatican
The Papal City State and its endless treasure troves of sights, relics, and museums, as well as the surrounding Italian neighbourhood.

Colosseo
The heart of ancient Rome, the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, the Forum of Augustus, the Forum and Markets of Trajan, the Capitoline and its museums.

North Center
Situated in the north part of Rome, home to the Villa Borghese, the Spanish Steps, and the elegant neighbourhoods of Parioli and Salario.

Trastevere
The land to the south of the Vatican, on the west bank of the Tiber River, full of narrow cobbled streets and lonely plazas that served as the inspiration for artists such as Giorgio de Chirico. Now arguably the centre of Rome's artistic life.

Aventino-Testaccio
Off-the-beaten-path neighbourhoods of Rome with plenty of surprises waiting for interested travellers, as well as some truly great food.

Esquilino-San Giovanni
South of Termini, with an indoor market, Piaza Vittorio Emanuele, and the Cathedral of Rome Saint John in Lateran.

Nomentano
Municipio III, the neighbourhoods "behind" the train station. Vibrant night life in San Lorenzo.

Outskirts

North
the vast suburban neighbourhoods to the north of the centre (Municipi 4, 15-20)

South
home of the Appian Way park, several catacombs, Fascist monumental architecture at EUR and extensive suburbs. (Municipi 5-13)

Ostia
Rome's beach resort and the impressive ruins of Ancient Rome's harbour.

Understand

Situated on the River Tiber, between the Apennine Mountains and the Tyrrhenian Sea, the "Eternal City" was once the administrative center of the mighty Roman Empire, governing a vast region that stretched all the way from Britain to Mesopotamia. Today it remains the seat of the Italian government and home to numerous ministerial offices. Rome has 2.7 million inhabitants while the metropolitan area is home to around 4.5 million.

Architecturally and culturally, Rome has some contrasts - you have areas with pompously huge majestic palaces, avenues and basilicas, which are then surrounded by tiny alleyways, little churches and old houses. The centre of Rome is mainly ancient, and modern buildings are usually concetrated in the suburbs, unlike Milan (where new and old architecture is combined both in the centre and the outskirts). You may also find yourself walking from a grand palace and tree-lined elegant boulevard, into a small and cramped Medieval-like street.

The abbreviation "S.P.Q.R" is ubiquitous in Rome, short for the old democratic motto "Senatus Populusque Romanus" (Latin), i.e. "The Senate and People of Rome".

For two weeks in August, many of Rome's inhabitants shut up shop (literally) and go on their own vacations; many stores, restaurants and other amenities will be closed during this time. The temperature in the city centre at this time of year is not particularly pleasant. If you do travel to Rome at this time, be prepared to see Chiuso per ferie (Closed for holidays) signs on many establishments. Even in these weeks the city is very beautiful and if you are looking for a less overcrowded vacation in Rome, this is not a bad time. You will always be able to find somewhere to eat.

History

Rome's history spans over two and half thousand years, which have seen its transformation from a small Latin village to the centre of a vast empire, through the founding of Catholicism, and into the capital of today's Italy. Rome's history is long and complex. What follows is merely a quick summary.

Rome is traditionally thought to have been founded by the mythical twins Romulus and Remus, who were abandoned as infants in the Tiber River and raised by a mother wolf before being found by a shepherd who raised them as his own sons. Rome was founded as a small village sometime in the 8th century BC surrounding the Palatine Hill, including the area where the Roman Forum is found. Due to the village's position at a ford on the Tiber River, Rome became a crossroads of traffic and trade.

The settlement developed into the capital of the Roman Kingdom, led by a series of Etruscan kings, before becoming the seat of the Roman Republic at around 500 BC, and then the centre of the Roman Empire from 27 BC onwards. For almost a thousand years, Rome was the largest, wealthiest, most powerful city in the Western World, with dominance over most of Europe and the Mediterranean Sea. Even after the fall of the Roman Empire in the 5th century AD, Rome maintained considerable importance and wealth.

Beginning with the reign of Constantine I, the Bishop of Rome (later known as the Pope) gained political and religious importance, establishing Rome as the center of the Catholic Church. During the Early Middle Ages, the city declined in population but gained a new importance as the capital of the newly formed Papal States. Throughout the Middle Ages, Rome was a major pilgrimage site and the focus of struggles between the Holy Roman Empire and the Papacy.

With the Italian Renaissance fully under way in the 15th century, Rome changed dramatically. Extravagant churches, bridges and public spaces, including a new Saint Peter's Basilica and the Sistine Chapel, were constructed by the Papacy so that Rome would equal the grandeur of other Italian cities of the period. In the 19th century, Rome again became the focus of a power struggle with the rise of the Kingdom of Italy, which wished to see a reunification of Italy. The Papal States remained in control of Rome under French protection, but with the outbreak of the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, French troops were forced to abandon Rome, leaving it clear for the Kingdom of Italy to capture. Rome became the capital of Italy, and has remained such ever since.

Rome today is a contemporary metropolis that reflects the many periods of its long history - Ancient times, Middle Ages, the Renaissance and the Modern Era. With the rise of Italian Fascism following World War I, Rome's population grew. This trend was stopped by World War II, which dealt relatively minor damage to Rome. With the dismantlement of the monarchy and the creation of the Italian Republic following World War II, Rome again began to grow in population and became a modern city. The city stands today as the capital of Italy and one of the world's major tourist destinations.

Background Reading

At last count there were close to 1700 novels set in Rome in days gone by. [1] Most easily available in bookshops are those by Lindsey Davis [2] and Steven Saylor [3]. Both are good storytellers and excellent at portraying life in Ancient Rome. Particularly interesting if you are visiting Rome may be Saylor’s “Roma: The Novel of Ancient Rome”, which traces the first thousand years or so of Rome’s history by following the fictional fortunes of two families. Each chapter begins with a map showing the state of Rome’s development at the time of the chapter.

The classic work on Ancient Rome remains Edward Gibbon’s “History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire”. This was written in 1782 but is still being reprinted. A marvelous book that covers Rome’s fortunes from Romulus and Remus to the 1970s is “Rome: The Biography of a City” by Christopher Hibbert (Penguin). An excellent guide book, too, although perhaps a bit too heavy to carry around.

English-language bookshops in Rome are:

- The Lion Bookshop, Via dei Greci, 36, close to Piazza di Spagna. Lots of books and a small cafe.

- Anglo-American Bookstore, Via delle Vite, 102, also close to Piazza di Spagna. A large store, with specialist sections. Strong on non-fiction.

- The Almost Corner Bookshop, Via del Moro 45, Trastevere. Small but very well-stocked store on the other side of the river.

Some Italian bookstores also have English-language sections. Try the large selection of English books (but also French, Spanish and more) at Feltrinelli International in Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando - or the smaller in Largo Argentina.

Get In

By Plane

Rome (IATA: ROM for all airports) has two main international airports:

- Leonardo da Vinci/Fiumicino International Airport [4] (Rome Fiumicino, IATA: FCO, tel.: 65631) - Rome's main airport is modern, large, rather efficient, and well connected to the center of the city by public transportation. However, late-night arrivals may limit you to an irregular bus into town unless you can afford a taxi.

- Ciampino International Airport [5] (Rome Ciampino, IATA: CIA, tel.:0794941) - Located to the southeast of the capital, this is the city's low-cost airline airport, serving Easyjet, Ryanair and Wizzair flights, among others (see Discount airlines in Europe). This small airport is closer to the city center than Fiumicino but has no direct train connection. There are plans to move the low-cost airport much further out of Rome, but this is unlikely for some years. Note that at Ciampino cash machines are available only in the departures area. This is a relatively small airport and it closes overnight. You will be locked out of the airport until it opens again for the first check-in around 4:30 or 5:00. Flying into Ciampino try to sit on the right of the plane, which will fly just to the east of the centre of the city. Reaching Rome you first see the River Tiber and then the Olympic Stadium, Castel Sant' Angelo, St Peter's and the Vatican and the Colosseum. Before touchdown you fly parallel with the old Appian Way, the tree-lined road on a slight incline about 1km to the right of the flightpath.

Public Airport Transportation

Taxi

- Taxis should charge the fixed price of EUR 40.00 for the ride into town at nighttime, but they often try to charge more.

Train

From Leonardo da Vinci/Fiumicino airport, there are two train lines to get you into Rome:

- Leonardo Express trains leave every 30 minutes to the central train station Roma Termini (35 minute trip). Beware that these trains arrive at Platform 25, which is a 400m walk from the main station. Tickets cost €14 and are available on line at [6]. Tickets sold at the departure platform are €15. So if there are three of you it is cheaper to take a taxi and you get delivered to your door. You cannot buy a ticket for a specific train; it is just a general ticket for a specific route (Termini), but it is good for any time. Get your ticket stamped in a yellow validation machine just before using it. The ticket will expire 90 minutes after validation.

- The Metropolitan train does not stop at Termini. Get off at Tiburtina Station or, before that, at Ostiense Station where you can connect to Line B of the Rome Metro, or get off at Trastevere Station and from there take the '8' tram (direction 'Argentina') to go to Largo Argentina and Campo de' Fiori. Tickets are €8, plus €1 for a metro/tram ticket. The extra cost of the Leonardo Express is for the convenience of a direct ride to Termini. If you are going somewhere else close to a Metro station, Tiburtina and Ostiense stations are as convenient. Get your ticket stamped in a yellow validation machine just before using it.

Bus

Roman buses are reliable but crowded. They are the best way to get around the city (except walking). Free maps of the bus system are available. Others can be purchased(€3.5 at Termini). Signs at the bus stop list the stops for each route. Ask for assistance. (In Rome, there is always somebody nearby who speaks English).

Some bus lines have arrivals every ten minutes or so. Less popular routes may arrive every half hour or less. If heading outside the center beware that bus schedules can be seriously disrupted by heavy traffic. Quite often trips just get cancelled.

Useful bus lines are:

- 23 San Paolo - Ostiense - Piazza Risorgimento (Vatican Museums)

- 40 Stazione Termini - St. Peter

- 64 Stazione Termini - Corso Vittorio Emanuele II - St. Peter

- 75 Stazione Termini - Forum Romanum - Colosseum

- 81 Piazza Venezia - St. Peter - Piazza Risorgimento (Vatican Museums)

- 116 Via Veneto - Campo de Fiori - Piazza Navona

- 117 San Giovanni in Laterano - Colosseum - PIazza di Spagnia - Piazza del Popolo

- 119 Piazza Augusto Imperatore - Piazza della Rotonda (Pantheon), minibus

- One of the most popular and useful lines is the 40, which arches from the Termini station through the historic center and then up to the Castel Sant'Angelo, near the Vatican. It is considered an express route, so its stops are spaced about 1/2 mile (2/3 km) apart; but it is also very frequent, very convenient for most places that the Metro does not go to, and very fast moving, especially compared to other routes.

- The 64 also goes from Termini to the Vatican. Beware, it is a favourite with pickpockets.

- The 116 and 117 are little electric buses which wind through the Centro Storico.

- Night buses could be useful due to the closing of the Metro stations at 23:30 and the stopping of regular lines of buses and trams at midnight. During the summer (until 23rd September) and on Fridays and Saturdays, the frequency of the rides is halved, which can vary among 10, 15, 30 and 35 minutes depending on the line. In any case they are much more punctual than during the day, as traffic is much less jammed. This makes the drivers drive at high speeds, allowing passengers to experience a strange mixture of adrenaline and (the city's) classical views. Hubs of the night buses are Termini and Piazza Venezia.

From Ciampino Airport

From Ciampino Airport, you can take the bus from the stop located outside the terminal building to Metro Line A Anagnina station (ticket: €1.20). A metro ticket to central Rome costs another €1. There are also buses at the same price to Ciampino local train station; from there there is a train to Rome Termini station (ticket: €2). The buses operate roughly every hour or 30 minutes during the Italian work day (8-12 and 16-20), and you should count on at least 45 minutes travel time for either route. The Metro can get very crowded. Timetable booklets are available in some information booths.

There are a few direct bus services from Ciampino, all of which go to the Termini in Downtown Rome:

- Rome Airport Shuttle [13] runs a door to door airport shuttle at the cost of 15€ per person (approx. 40 min, runs all day).

- Sit bus shuttle [14] runs a line that costs €6 one-way or 10€ with return (approx. 40 min, with about 25 services a day).

- Terravision [15]. Please note that this is a dedicated airport-city transfer only for the major low cost airlines. The price is €6 one-way or €12 return when booked online (approx. 40 min, with a service every 30 min). It is advised that passengers on the return trip from Termini to board the bus 3 hours before their flight's departure time.

- COTRAL's direct line costs €5 one-way (approx. 40 min), but has far fewer departures than Terravision. These buses are not mentioned on the airport website yet, but you can find them on Schiaffini's own site. This bus may be useful if you arrive at a time when the Metro is closed.

A shared airport shuttle can be hired for around €15 per person to take you from Ciampino airport. However, since the shuttle is shared, it may take longer to reach your destination if other customers are dropped off before you are.

Private Airport Transportation

Taxis in Rome are white. There are fixed fares from downtown (within the city's ancient Aurelian Walls) to the airports. City centre to Fiumicino and vice-versa cost €40, but only for Taxis which are based in Rome. City center to Ciampino and vice-versa cost €30. The fee for luggage is around €1 for each piece. For other destinations fares are not fixed. In the main Rome taxi drivers are hard-working honest people. But there is a hard core of crooks, and these tend to work the airports and the main station. Do NOT negotiate the price for the city center with anyone and be sure your driver activates the meter (all regular taxis have a meter) when he starts driving to any other destination. Outside the walls you pay according to the distance. Drivers at the airport may try to talk you into more, saying that your destination is 'inside the wall' or 'hard to get to'. State clearly before you drive away that you want the meter to run. If they try to overcharge you at your destination ask them to call a policeman. They will probably back down. Licensed limousine drivers may approach you at the airports, particularly Fiumicino. A drive with them to the center could reach as high as €80. Be aware as well of unlicensed "taxi" drivers. Go directly to the taxi stand and ignore touts. As written above, since the fare from Fiumicino to Downtown costs €40 only for Taxis based in Rome, when you start from the Airport please make sure that you are not using a Cab licensed in the Commune of Fiumicino, since they are not bound to use this fare.

At Ciampino there is supposed to be an organized taxi queue but the drivers will often negotiate amongst themselves if you are going somewhere the cab at the front doesn't want to go to. There are reports that late at night licensed cab drivers in the rank at Ciampino are asking €100 to take you into town, so try to avoid late flights or take the bus that connects with the flight. If you have to take a cab just pay the legal fare at your destination. If you have no stomach for the resulting argument then you can phone a cab from one of the numbers listed under Get Around.

If you are not going to the city center, be aware that both airports are outside Rome's ring motorway (GRA). This means that the fare for the first part of the journey is higher (a number 2 appears on the meter): the driver is supposed to change the fare to number 1 once he (or, she, there is a growing number of women taxi drivers) passes over or joins the GRA. If, when travelling from Fiumicino, you pass a service area on both sides of the highway, with a McDonalds on the left side, and the meter has not been changed you should ask the driver to change it (Numero uno per favore). Coming from Ciampino the GRA is just a couple of km from the airport exit.

The quality of Rome's taxis is very variable. You may get a brand-new Mercedes or you may get a 10-year-old Fiat with no shock absorbers and no luggage space. But the fare will be the same! Often times you may find drivers who claim to be taxis but use their own car for transport. Be aware that regular cars cannot drive into some parts of the historical section unless they are authorized taxis or buses.

- Zelit Limousine Rome Private Airport Transfer Service , from both airports , Fiumicino and Ciampino to Rome hotels and back, Trips from central Rome and Airport to Civitavecchia Port , daily trips , runs 24 hrs , reasonable rates (approx. 40 mins, airport to Rome, rates starting from 40 €).

- RomeTransfers.net provide private airport transportation to Rome hotels or to the Port of Civitavecchia, with reasonable rates for a quality private service.

Rental cars are available from all major companies at both airports. Providers can be reached easily in the Arrivals Halls at both Fiumicino and Ciampino.

By Train

Rome's main railway station is Termini Station which is locked between 00:30 and 04:30. Most long-distance trains passing through Rome between these times will stop at Tiburtina station instead.

Other main stations include Ostiense, Trastevere, Tuscolana, Tiburtina.

By Car

In a nutshell: Don't do it! Well, some people actually enjoy it. Roman traffic is chaotic, but it is possible to drive there. However, the roads are not logical and the signs are few. It will take a few weeks to understand where to drive, to get where you want to go. When driving in Rome it is important to accept that Italians drive in a very pragmatic way. Taking turns and letting people go in front of you is rare. There is little patience so if the light is green when you go into the intersection and you are too slow they will let you know. A green light turning to amber is a reason to accelerate, not brake, in part because the lights usually stay amber for several seconds. If you brake immediately when the light changes you are likely to get rear-ended. Parking is scarce. Rome is plagued with people who demand money to direct you to a space, even on the rare occasions when there are many places available. While in Rome, it is far better to travel by bus or metro, or (in extremis) take a taxi.

If you are driving in the centre, note that many areas are limited to people with special electronic passes. If you go into these areas (which are camera controlled and marked with the sign ZTL) you may end up with a fine, particularly if your car has Italian plates.

By Ship

Most cruise ships dock in Civitavecchia, to afford their passengers opportunity to visit the area and/or Rome. Many ships arrange a shuttle bus to and from the port entrance. From there you can walk 10-15 minutes along the shore to the Civitavecchia train station. Purchase of a B.I.R.G. round trip train ticket for Rome costs just €9 (as of Fall 2009), and also entitles you to unlimited use of Rome's Metro/underground and city bus lines. Trains for commuters leave every hour or so, more often during rush hours, and take about 80 minutes. You can get off near St. Peter's, or continue to the Termini station right downtown, where countless buses and the Metro await. At some ten times the cost, cruise ships often offer bus transport as well, taking 2 hours or so to reach Rome depending on traffic.

It is now possible for modest-sized cruise ships to dock in the new Porto di Roma, Ostia, located 20 kilometers from Rome and linked by train and metro. Stations are not within practical walking distance from the pier.

Ferry Services

- Grimaldi Lines [16]. Provides ferry service to/from Barcelona, Tunis, Toulon (France), Porto-Vecchio (Corsica).

- Moby [17]. Provides service to/from Olbia, Sardinia.

Get around

Roma Pass

If you'll be staying in Rome for at least 3 days, consider purchasing the Roma Pass [18]. The cost is €25 and entitles holders to free admission to the first two museums and/or archaeological sites visited, full access to the public transport system, reduced tickets and discounts for any other following museums and sites visited, as well as exhibitions, music events, theatrical and dance performances and all other tourist services.

Warning: Hassles have been reported in at least one case of a non-working Roma Pass.

By Car

In a nutshell: Don't do it! Well, some people actually enjoy it. Roman traffic is chaotic, but it is possible to drive there. However, the roads are not logical and the signs are few. It will take a few weeks to understand where to drive, to get where you want to go. When driving in Rome it is important to accept that Italians drive in a very pragmatic way. Taking turns and letting people go in front of you is rare. There is little patience so if the light is green when you go into the intersection and you are too slow they will let you know. A green light turning to amber is a reason to accelerate, not brake, in part because the lights usually stay amber for several seconds. If you brake immediately when the light changes you are likely to get rear-ended. Parking is scarce. Rome is plagued with people who demand money to direct you to a space, even on the rare occasions when there are many places available. While in Rome, it is far better to travel by bus or metro, or (in extremis) take a taxi.

If you are driving in the centre, note that many areas are limited to people with special electronic passes. If you go into these areas (which are camera controlled and marked with the sign ZTL) you may end up with a fine, particularly if your car has Italian plates.

By Taxi

Fake taxis

Some private citizens dress up their cars to look like cabs. These people strategically locate themselves at airports and railway stations waiting for travelers. Beware of operators who do not display a licensed meter and ID. Use only authorized taxis (white vehicles with a taximeter) that are available in the arrivals areas of the terminals. Also, some airport employees may direct you to a 'Taxi' driver if you ask where you find them when you are inside the airport terminal. The 'Taxi' could end up being a Mercedes limo, costing you double the fare of a real taxi, and a tricky situation to get out of as your luggage is locked away in the limo's trunk.

Taxis are the most expensive way to get around Rome, but when weighed against convenience and speed, they are often worth it. Roman taxis run on meters, and you should always make sure the driver starts the meter. Taxis will typically pick you up only at a taxi stand, which you will find at all but the smallest piazzas, as well as at the main train station or when called by phone. Flagging down a taxi (like in London) is possible but quite rare as the taxi drivers prefer to use the stands. When you get in the cab, there will be a fixed starting charge, which will be more for late nights, Sundays and holidays. Supplements will be requested for bags that the driver has to handle, typically €1 per bag. So, if you have a limited amount of luggage that would not need to go in the trunk, you may decline when the driver offers to put your bags in the trunk. Drivers may not use the shortest route, so try to follow the route with a map and discuss if you feel you're being tricked.

Be warned that when you telephone for a taxi, the cab's meter starts running when it is summoned, not when it arrives to pick you up, so by the time a cab arrives at your location, there may already be a substantial amount on the meter. A major problem is that taxi drivers often leave the previous fare running on the meter. So you may find the cab arriving with €15 or even more on the meter. If you are not in a hurry you should tell him or her (there are a few female cab drivers in Rome) to get lost, but if you are desperate to get to the airport it is a different matter. You can get a taxi pretty easily at any piazza though, so calling ahead is really not required. A trip completely across the city (within the walls) will cost about €11 if starting at a taxi rank, a little more if there is heavy traffic at night or on a Sunday. Taxi drivers can often try to trick customers by switching a €50 note for a €10 note during payment, leading you to believe that you handed them only €10 when you have already given them €50. The main taxi companies may be called at 063570, 065551, 064994, 066645 and 0688177.

On Foot

Once you're in the center, you are best off on foot. What could be more romantic than strolling through Rome on foot holding hands? That is hard to beat!

Crossing a street in Rome can be a bit challenging. There are crosswalks, but they are rarely located at signalled intersections. Traffic can be intimidating, but if you are at a crosswalk just start walking and cars will let you cross the street. While crossing, watch out for the thousands of mopeds. As in many European cities, even if the cars and trucks are stationary due to a jam or for another legal reason, mopeds and bikes will be trying to squeeze through the gaps and may be ignoring the reason why everyone else has stopped. This means that even if the traffic seems stationary you need to pause and look around into the gaps.

By public transport (ATAC)

Tickets must be bought (from a 'Tabacchi' - look for the big 'T' sign, these shops are plentiful, or from a kiosk selling newspapers), before you board the bus, Metro, or tram. Metro stations have automated ticket kiosks, and major Metro stations have clerked ticket windows. Some of the rare trams have single ticket machines as well. Tickets for regular ATAC buses, Metro, and trams are the same fares and are compatible with each other. Options as of March 2010 were the following:

- a single ticket ride ('Biglietto') - €1 - you can change buses or into and out of the metro on one journey (valid for 75 minutes)

- Integrated Daily Ticket ('Biglietto Giornaliero') - €4 (Valid until midnight).

- Integrated Tourist Ticket ('Biglietto Turistico') (3-day) - €11

- Integrated Weekly Ticket ('Carta Integrata Settimanale') (7-day) - €16

- Monthly Pass ('Abbonamento Mensile') - €30

- Annual Pass ('Abbonamento Annuale') - €230

When you board the bus or metro you should validate the ticket ('convalidare') in the little yellow machine. The last four types of ticket on the list above must be validated the first time you use them only. On the whole, the integrated passes are not economical. Unless you take many rides spread all over the day, the single ticket ride option is preferable. Calculating if a pass is worth it is easy since a single ticket ride costs €1. For example, for a daily ticket (€4) to be worth it, you would have to make 5 or more trips at intervals greater than 75 minutes apart on a single day. Many visitors just walk through the city in one direction and take a single ride back.

ATAC [19] polices the buses, Metro, and trams for people riding without tickets. Inspectors can be rare on some buses, although they tend to increase their presence in the summer. Inspectors are present on the Metro as well, and you should keep your validated ticket throughout your journey as proof-of-payment. If you don't have sufficient money on you to pay the fine, they will actually escort you to an ATM to pay the fee. If you don't have an ATM card to withdraw money, you will be asked to pay by mail, and the fee goes up to €140. Inspectors can also fine you for getting in and out of the wrong door, even if the bus is empty! The entrances are the front and rear doors and the exit in the middle. Many Romans ignore this distinction.

Bus

Roman buses are reliable but crowded. They are the best way to get around the city (except walking). Free maps of the bus system are available. Others can be purchased(€3.5 at Termini). Signs at the bus stop list the stops for each route. Ask for assistance. (In Rome, there is always somebody nearby who speaks English).

Some bus lines have arrivals every ten minutes or so. Less popular routes may arrive every half hour or less. If heading outside the center beware that bus schedules can be seriously disrupted by heavy traffic. Quite often trips just get cancelled.

Useful bus lines are:

- 23 San Paolo - Ostiense - Piazza Risorgimento (Vatican Museums)

- 40 Stazione Termini - St. Peter

- 64 Stazione Termini - Corso Vittorio Emanuele II - St. Peter

- 75 Stazione Termini - Forum Romanum - Colosseum

- 81 Piazza Venezia - St. Peter - Piazza Risorgimento (Vatican Museums)

- 116 Via Veneto - Campo de Fiori - Piazza Navona

- 117 San Giovanni in Laterano - Colosseum - PIazza di Spagnia - Piazza del Popolo

- 119 Piazza Augusto Imperatore - Piazza della Rotonda (Pantheon), minibus

- One of the most popular and useful lines is the 40, which arches from the Termini station through the historic center and then up to the Castel Sant'Angelo, near the Vatican. It is considered an express route, so its stops are spaced about 1/2 mile (2/3 km) apart; but it is also very frequent, very convenient for most places that the Metro does not go to, and very fast moving, especially compared to other routes.

- The 64 also goes from Termini to the Vatican. Beware, it is a favourite with pickpockets.

- The 116 and 117 are little electric buses which wind through the Centro Storico.

- Night buses could be useful due to the closing of the Metro stations at 23:30 and the stopping of regular lines of buses and trams at midnight. During the summer (until 23rd September) and on Fridays and Saturdays, the frequency of the rides is halved, which can vary among 10, 15, 30 and 35 minutes depending on the line. In any case they are much more punctual than during the day, as traffic is much less jammed. This makes the drivers drive at high speeds, allowing passengers to experience a strange mixture of adrenaline and (the city's) classical views. Hubs of the night buses are Termini and Piazza Venezia.

Hop on or Hop off Buses

A popular alternative to city and pre-planned tour buses are the hop-on/hop-off (Ho-Ho) buses...open-top double-decker. In the last few years there has been a veritable explosion in the number of such buses, and at the last count there were seven different companies. An all-day ticket runs about 18-20 Euros, can be purchased as you board at any stop, and provides unlimited access to available seats (the open-air upper deck highly preferable in good weather) and earbud headphones to plug into outlets for running commentary on approaching sights. Commentary is offered in nearly every European language. Most companies follow more or less the same route, starting is sight of Termini station but there are also two different tours of "Christian Rome" and the Archeobus, which will take you to the catacombs and along the Appian Way.

One good tactic for first-time visitors is to ride a complete Ho-Ho loop, making notes of what interests you. Then stay on until you arrive at each point/area you wish to visit, do so, then hop back on another bus (for that bus line) for the next point/area of interest. Even with a prompt morning start, seeing/doing all that's available with some thoroughness can easily consume the whole day. If you're there more than one day and like the approach, on subsequent days look for different bus lines that take different routes, e.g., most of the same points/areas but in different order.

Taking pictures from the upper-deck while in-motion is tricky but doable (but not recommended by the bus lines) by those with good balance who can also recognize approaching limits on camera and lighting angles. An early start will also help choice of seat location to help camera angles. Watch out for the sales guys hanging outside of the big train station Termini who have leaflets for all the companies, they often actually work for just one and drag you to a ticket office which is a waste of time as you can just get a ticket on a bus.

The different bus companies offer vastly different service levels. Please help by writing about them:

- GLT or the Green Line (but the busses are actually grey). No A/C on the lower deck and the audio of the tour is done by multiple different recorded voices and not activated by GPS so it's very disjointed and random, sparse and unhelpful. For example it tells you too late about things you just went past. There is very little audio content, it's mostly silence (in the English audio anyway) Also they don't have many busses compared to the other companies as far as I could see.

- 101 is the red bus

Tram

The Tram routes mostly skirt the historic center, but there are stops convenient for the Vatican, the Colosseum, and the Trastevere area. The number 8 does run into the center to Largo Argentina, not far from the Pantheon. If you want to catch a soccer game at one of the stadiums in the north of the city, catch the tram (2) just north of the Piazza del Popolo. Number 19 links the Vatican with Villa Borghese.

Metro

There are two lines, crossing at Termini station. Line A (red line) runs northwest past the Vatican, and southeast. Line B (Blue Line) runs southwest past the Colosseum and northeast. Line A usually stops running at 11PM. On Fridays and Saturdays the last trains of Line B leave from the stations at 1:30AM and the line closes at 2AM to re-open at 5.00. The Metro is the most punctual form of public transportation in Rome, but it can get extremely crowded during rush hour. See safety warning in the Stay Safe section.

Actual WIPS

Consider that in 2011 a lot of work in progress will disturb your journey in Rome. From January to April the Line A will close at 9pm (except saturday) and in case you absolutely need it, you can use a temporary bus service. Also, trains to Ostia Lido won't arrive at the seaside of Rome, being three stations under renovation. Ostia Antica is fully served until 9pm. Since 9pm (except weekend) the train will stop at Acilia station. Termini metro station is under renovation and changing Line A to B and reverse will be frustrating.

By commuter rail

There is a network of suburban rail lines that mostly connect to smaller towns and conurbations of Rome. Tourists are unlikely to use these, except when arriving from Fiumicino, but they can be very convenient if you fancy a day-trip out of Rome (see Get Out)

On a moped

There is the possibility to hire motor bikes or scooters. Many Romans prefer this way of transportation, even in winter you can see them driving scooters equipped with raincoats, blankets, and rain boots Motorbikes are not particularly safe in Rome and most accidents seem to involve one (or two!). Nevertheless, Roman traffic is chaotic and a scooter provides excellent mobility within the city. Scooter rental costs between €30 and €70 per day depending on scooter size and rental company. The traffic can be intimidating and the experience exciting but a bit insane.

Some of the main rental shops:

Scoot A Long noleggio scooter via Cavour 302 00193 Roma (RM) tel: 06 6780206

Centro Moto Coloseo strada statale Quattro, 46 tel: 06 70451069

Eco Move Rent Via Varese 48/50 00185 - Roma 06.44704518

Rent & Rent 00184 Roma (RM) 33, v. Capo d'Africa tel: 06 7002915

On a bicycle

There is the possibility to hire any kind of bike in Rome: from tandem, road bikes, children bikes to trekking bikes. Some shops are even specialized only on high quality ones while street stands will hire you cheaper and heavy ones. Bicycling alone can be stressful because of the traffic. The best way is to discover first how to move around and avoid traffic and stress with a guide thanks to one of the tours offered by almost all rental shops. There are different itineraries offered from the basic city center, panoramic Rome tour to the Ancient Parks (from €29 for 4h). The experience is well worth it and you would reduce also your impact on the city environment and on the traffic.

Even moderately experienced cyclists, however, may find that cycling through Rome's streets offers an unparalleled way to learn the city intimately and get around very cheaply and efficiently. While the Roman traffic is certainly chaotic to someone from a country with more regimented and enforced rules of the road, Roman drivers are, generally speaking, used to seeing bicycles, as well as scooters and motorcycles, and one may move throughout the city relatively easily. If you are in a car's way, they will generally let you know with a quick beep of the horn and wait for you to move.

A particularly spectacular, and relaxing, cycle trip is to pedal out along la Via Appia Antica, the original Appian Way that linked much of Italy to Rome. Some of the original cobblestones, now worn by over 2 millenia of traffic, are still in place. With exceptionally light traffic in most sections, you can casually meander your bike over kilometres of incredible scenery and pass ancient relics and active archaeological sites throughout the journey. (Rome/South)

Some of the many rental shops:

- Punto Informativo, Via Appia Antica 58/60. From Monday to Saturday from 9.3AM to 1.30PM and from 2.00PM to 5.30PM (4.30 in wintertime) and on Sundays and holidays from 9.30AM to 5.30PM non stop (4.30 wintertime). Price: €3/hour and €10/day (info tel. 06 5126314)

- Comitato per la Caffarella (Largo Tacchi Venturi). Sundays from 10AM to 6PM. Price: €3/hour and €10/day (Info and reservations, tel. 06 789279)

- Catacombe di San Sebastiano. Every day except Sundays; Price: €3/hour and €10/day (Info tel. 06 7850350).

- TopBike Rental & Tours. Via Quattro Cantoni 40 (between Termini Station and the Colosseum). Everyday from 9.30 to 19 non-stop (For info or reservations tel. 06 4882893)

- Bici & Baci. Via del Viminale, 5 (Termini Station). Tel. 064828443

- Collalti. Via del Pellegrino, 82 (Campo de’ Fiori). Tel.0668801084

- Romarent. Vicolo dei Bovari, 7/a (Campo de’ Fiori). Tel.066896555

- Bikeaway. Via Monte del Gallo, 25 A ( Stazione FS S. Pietro). Tel.0645495816

- Bikesharing. Rome's public transport company, ATAC, operates a bike sharing scheme. The bicycles, which are green, are available at numerous locations in the downtown area and further afield. Tickets cost Euros 10, which includes a Euro 5 inscription fee. In the downtown area electronic cards can be obtained at the Metro ticket offices of Termini, Lepanto and Spagna. The rental cost is Euro 1 an hour. The application procedure is a bit cumbersome and you have to give credit card details but this is a good system if you want to move around Rome quickly and with minimal exhaustion.

See

Italians are very fond of their landmarks; in order to make them accessible to everyone one week a year there is no charge for admittance to all publicly owned landmarks and historical sites. This week, known as "La settimana dei beni culturali", typically occurs in mid-May and for those 7 to 10 days every landmark, archaeological site and museum belonging to government agencies (including the Quirinale presidential palace and gardens, the Colosseum and all of the ancient Forum) is accessible and free of charge. For more information and for specific dates see [20] or [21].

You are able to buy full day passes for €12 or a 3-day pass for €23(not up to date). This pass gets you in to the Colosseum (Colosseo), Palatine Hill (Palatino Hill), the Baths of Caracalla (Terme di Caracalla), and the catacombs as well as the Terme di Diocleziano, Palazza Massimo alle Terme, Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Altemps, Villa dei Quintili, and the Tomb of Cecilia Metella.

Ancient Rome

The main area for exploring the ruins of ancient Rome is in Rome/Colosseo either side of Via dei Fori Imperiali, which connects the Colosseum and Piazza Venezia. Constructed between 1931 and 1933, at the time of Mussolini, this road destroyed a large area of Renaissance and medieval buildings constructed on top of ruins of the ancient forums and ended forever plans for an archeological park stretching all the way to the Appian Way. Heading towards the Colosseum from Piazza Venezia, you see the Roman Forum on your right and Trajan's Forum and Market on the left. To the right of the Colosseum is the Arch of Constantine and the beginning of the Palatine Hill, which will eventually lead you to ruins of the Flavian Palace and a view of the Circus Maximus (see Rome/Aventino-Testaccio). To the left, after the Colosseum is a wide, tree-lined path that climbs through the Colle Oppio park. Underneath this park is the Golden House of Nero (Domus Aurea), an enormous and spectacular underground complex restored and then closed again due to damage caused by heavy rain. Further to the left on the Esquiline Hill are ruins of Trajan's baths.

In Old Rome you must see the Pantheon, which is amazingly well preserved considering it dates back to 125 AD. There is a hole constructed in the ceiling so it is an interesting experience to be there when it is raining. If you are heading to the Pantheon from Piazza Venezia you first reach Largo di Torre Argentina on your left. Until 1926 this was covered in narrow streets and small houses, which were razed to the ground when ruins of Roman temples were discovered. Moving along Corso Vittorio Emmanuelle and crossing the Tiber river into the Vatican area you see the imposing Castel Sant' Angelo, built as a Mausoleum for the Emperor Hadrian. This is connected by a covered fortified corridor to the Vatican and served as a refuge for Popes in times of trouble.

South of the Colosseum are the Baths of Caracalla (Aventino-Testaccio). You can then head South-East on the old Appian Way, passing through a stretch of very well-preserved city wall. For the adventurous, continuing along the Appian Way (Rome/South) will bring you to a whole host of Roman ruins, including the Circus of Maxentius, the tomb of Cecilia Metella, the Villa dei Quintili and, nearby, several long stretches of Roman aqueduct.

Returning to the Modern Center, the Baths of Diocletian are opposite the entrance to the main railway station, Termini. The National Museum of Rome stands in the South-West corner of the Baths complex and has an enormous collection of Roman scultures and other artifacts. But this is just one of numerous museums devoted to ancient Rome, including those of the Capitoline Hill. It is really amazing how much there is.

Catholic Rome

There are more than 900 churches in Rome. Probably one third would be well worth a visit!

In Catholic tradition, St. Peter is said to have founded the church in Rome together with St. Paul. The first churches of Rome originated in places where early Christians met, usually in the homes of private citizens. By the IVth Century, however, there were already four major churches, or basilicas. Rome had 28 cardinals who took it in turns to give mass once a week in one of the basilicas. In one form or another the four basilicas are with us today and constitute the major churches of Rome. They are St Peter’s, St Paul’s Outside the Walls, Santa Maria Maggiore and San Giovanni. All pilgrims to Rome are expected to visit these four basilicas, together with San Lorenzo fuori le mura, Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, and the Sanctuary of Divino Amore. The latter was inserted as one of the seven at the time of the Great Jubilee in 2000, replacing San Sebastiano outside the walls.

Take a look inside a few churches. You'll find the richness and range of decor astonishing, from fine classical art to tacky electric candles. Starting with several good examples of early Christian churches, including San Clemente and Santa Costanza, there are churches built over a period of 1700 years or so, including modern churches constructed to serve Rome's new suburbs.

Some churches in Rome deny admission to people who are dressed inappropriately. You will find "fashion police" at the most visited churches. ("Knees and shoulders" are the main problem - especially female ones.) Bare shoulders, short skirts, and shorts are officially not allowed, but long shorts and skirts reaching just above the knee should generally be no problem. However, it's always safer to wear longer pants or skirts that go below the knee; St. Peter's in particular is known for rejecting tourists for uncovered knees, shoulders, midriffs, etc. (You also generally won't be told until right before you enter the church, so you will have made the trek to the Vatican and stood in a long security line for nothing.) The stricter churches usually have vendors just outside selling inexpensive scarves and sometimes plastic pants. But relatively few churches enforce dress codes and you can wander into most wearing shorts, sleeveless shirts, or pretty much anything without problems. It is, however, good to keep one's dress tasteful, as these are still churches and houses of prayer for many people. (Older Romans might comment on your attire and perhaps harass you if it is particularly revealing.)

The Seven Hills of Rome

To the modern visitor, the Seven Hills of Rome can be rather difficult to identify. In the first place generations of buildings constructed on top of each other and the construction of tall buildings in the valleys have tended to make the hills less pronounced than they originally were. Secondly, there are clearly more than seven hills. In Roman days many of these were outside the city boundaries.

The seven hills were first occupied by small settlements and not recognized as a city for some time. Rome came into being as these settlements acted together to drain the marshy valleys between them and turn them into markets and fora. The Roman Forum used to be a swamp.

The Palatine Hill looms over Circus Maximus and is accessed near the Colosseum . Legend has it that this was occupied by Romulus when he fell out with his brother, Remus, who occupied the Aventine Hill on the other side of the Circus. Also clearly recognisable as hills are the Caelian, to the southeast of Circus Maximus and the Capitoline, which overlooks the Forum and now hosts the Municipality of Rome. East and northeast of the Roman Forum are the Esquiline, Viminal, and Quirinal hills. These are less easy to distinguish as separate hills these days and from a distance look like one.

The red line on the map indicates the Servian Wall, its construction is credited to the Roman King Servius Tullius in the Sixth Century BC, but archaeological evidence places its construction during the Fourth Century BC. Small bits of this wall can still be seen, particularly close to Termini railway station and on the Aventine hill. As Rome expanded new walls were required to protect the larger area. These were built in the Third Century AD by the Emperor Aurelian. Lengthy sections of this wall remain all around the outskirts of Rome's center. Much is in very good condition.

Among other hills of Rome, not included in the seven, are that overlooking the Vatican; the Janiculum overlooking Trastevere, which provides excellent views of Rome; the Pincio on the edge of the Borghese Gardens, which gives good views of the Vatican, and the Monte Mario to the north.

Museums

If you are in Rome for the Arts there are several world-class museums in the city. The natural starting point is a visit to the area of Villa Borghese in Campo Marzio, where there is a cluster of art museums. Galleria Borghese houses a previously private art collection of the Borghese family, Museo Nazionale di Villa Giulia is home of the world's largest Etruscan art collection, and Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna houses many Italian masterpieces as well as a few pieces by artists such as Cézanne, Degas, Monet and Van Gogh. The Capitoline Museums in the Colosseo district opens their doors to the city's most important collection of antique Roman and Greek art and sculptures. Visit the Galleria d'Arte Antica, housed in the Barberini palace in the Modern center, for Italian Renaissance and Baroque art.

A visit to Rome is not complete without a trip to the Vatican Museum. You need to go to the museum if you want to see the Sistine Chapel, but there is an enormous collection. You cannot miss part of this, such as tapestries, maps and the rooms painted by Rafael, as they are en route to the Sistine Chapel, but there is much, much more to explore, including a stunning Egyptian collection, and the Pinacoteca, which includes a Portrait of St. Jerome by Leonardo Da Vinci and paintings by Giotto, Perugino, Raphael, Veronese and Caravaggio, to name just a few.

Rome's National Museum at the Baths of Diocletian in the Modern Center has a vast archaeological collection as does the national museum at Palazzo Altemps, close to Piazza Navona. Further afield, the Museo di Civilta Romana (Museum of Rome's Civilization), in EUR is most famous for an enormous model of Imperial Rome, but also has an extensive display of plaster casts, models and reconstructions of statues and Roman stonework.

If you have plenty of time there is absolutely no shortage of other museums covering a wide variety of interests. Examples include the Museum of the Walls (see Rome/South), the Musical Instrument Museum and a museum devoted to the liberation of Rome from German occupation in the Second World War (Rome/Esquilino-San Giovanni).

Check museum opening hours before heading there. Government museums are invariably closed on Mondays, so that is a good day for other activities. The Rome municipality itself operates some 17 museums and attractions. Info at [22]. These are free to European Union citizens under 18 and over 65. Web sites for other museums are listed on the relevant District pages.

Just walking around

Much of the attraction of Rome is in just wandering around the old city. You can quickly escape from the major tourist routes and feel as if you are in a small medieval village, not a capital city. If you can do so while watching for uneven cobblestones, keep looking upwards. There are some amazing roof gardens and all sorts of sculptures, paintings and religious icons attached to exterior walls. Look through 2nd and 3rd floor windows to see some oak-beamed ceilings in the old houses. Look through the archway entrances of larger Palazzos to see incredible courtyards, complete with sculptures, fountains and gardens. Take a stroll in the area between Piazza Navona and the Tiber river in Old Rome where artisans continue to ply their trade from small shops. Also in Old Rome, take a 1km stroll down Via Giulia, which is lined with many old palaces. Film enthusiasts will want to visit Via Veneto (Via Vittorio Veneto) in the Modern Center, scene for much of Fellini's La Dolce Vita.

The Piazzas

The narrow streets frequently broaden out into small or large squares (piazzas), which usually have one or more churches and a fountain or two. Apart from Piazza Navona and Piazza della Rotonda (in front of the Pantheon), take in the nearby Piazza della Minerva, with its unique elephant statue by Bernini and Piazza Colonna with the column of Marcus Aurelius and Palazzo Chigi, meeting place of the Italian Government. On the other side of Corso Vittorio Emanuele are Piazza Farnese with the Palazzo of the same name (now the French Embassy) and two interesting fountains and the flower sellers at Campo dei Fiori, scene of Rome's executions in the old days. All of these squares are a short distance from each other in Old Rome. The enormous Piazza del Popolo in the North Center, which provided an imposing entrance to the city when it represented the northern boundary of Rome, is well worth a visit. A short walk back towards the center brings you to Piazza di Spagna at the foot of the Spanish Steps. Yet another fascinating fountain here. The area was much used as backdrop for the 1953 film Roman Holiday with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck.

On the other side of the river is, of course, the magnificent square of St Peter's at the Vatican. Further south, in Trastevere is Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, a great place to watch the world go by, either from one of the restaurants or bars that line two sides of the square or, if that is too expensive, from the steps of the central fountain. The square attracts many street entertainers.

Moving back to the Modern Center you have to see the Trevi Fountain, surely a part of everyone's Roman holiday. Visitors are always amazed that such a big and famous fountain is tucked away in a small piazza in the middle of side streets. Take extra-special care of your possessions here. Further up the Via del Tritone you will come to Piazza Barberini, now full of traffic but the lovely Bernini fountain is not to be missed.

Overlooked Places

The Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana is an example of Facist Architecture in Rome. It contains a building often referred to as "the Square Colosseum." It was designed by Benito Mussolini to honor the historic Colosseum but also show his taste in cleaner architecture. This would be an interesting place to visit after seeing the Colosseum to compare their differences and similarities.

Viewpoints

With no tall buildings in Rome, views of the city come from climbing the many hills, either the original seven hills of Rome or others that surround them. The two most popular views of Rome are from the Janiculum hill overlooking Trastevere and the Pincio at the edge of the Borghese Gardens. The former, best reached by car, has sweeping views of the center of Rome, as long as the authorities remember to prune the trees on the hillside in front of the viewpoint. Cross over the piazza for an excellent view of the dome of St Peter's. The Vatican is the main sight from the Pincio (metro Line A, Piazza del Popolo, and then a good climb). Less popular, but just as nice, is the orange grove at Parco Savello on the Aventine Hill.

Rome for kids

If you are planning some serious sightseeing then leave the kids with their grandparents! They don’t take kindly to being dragged from ruin to ruin and church to church. A common sight in Rome is miserable looking kids traipsing after their parents. Also, push chairs/buggies are difficult to use because of the cobbled streets. If you are a family, do not try to do too much. It will be a big strain on kids and in the end everyone will be tired.

Apart from the major attractions Rome has relatively little to entertain kids. If you noticed a big Ferris wheel on your way in from Fiumicino Airport, think again. Lunapark at EUR was closed down in 2008. A few of the other ways to bribe your kids, however, are:

- Children's Museum. Via Flaminia 82. Just north of Piazza del Popolo. Controlled entrance at 10.00, 12,00, 15.00 and 17.00 for visits lasting 1 hour 45 minutes. Closed Mondays and for much of August. Best to check the web site for up-to-date info and to book in advance.[23] Hands-on science, mainly for pre-teens, housed in a former tram-car depot.

- 3d-Rewind, Via Capo D'Africa 5 (just behind the Colosseum), [24]. 9.00-19.00. provides a three-dimensional look at what the Colosseum and the Forum were like in the days of the Romans. Kids really like it but parents beware that you have to brave a large "merchandising" area after leaving the show, with overpriced souvenirs. €15 for adults and €8 for kids.

- Bioparco. The renamed Rome Zoo. On the edge of the Borghese Gardens. From 09.30 to 17.00 or 18.00 depending on the month. They try hard, but San Diego this isn't. If you are a regular zoo-goer you will be disappointed.[25]

- The Time Elevator. Via dei Santi Apostoli, 20 on a side street between Piazza Venezia and the Trevi Fountain. Daily 10.30 to 19.30. "Five-dimensional" shows on the Origins of Life and on the History of Rome, plus "The House of Horrors". Not for the faint-hearted: your seats move all over the place. Kids love it. [26]

- Rome's Wax Museum. 67 Piazza di Santi Apostoli, next to Piazza Venezia. Few good reports about this museum. Comments invited.

- Planetarium at EUR. This also has an excellent astronomy museum and is conveniently next to the Museum of Rome's Civilization [27].

- The Vatican is, by and large, not a great idea for kids although they often enjoy the Sistine Chapel and are impressed by the beauty and the fact that it was all done in just four years. However, the Sistine Chapel is very crowded and getting there through the corridors of the Vatican Museum is even worse. It is easy for families to get separated so determine a meeting point. The best part of St. Peter's Basilica is that kids can go to the top of the dome. It is 500 steps but you can take the elevator up to the third floor. From there there are another 323 exhausting steps. So it is fun for older kids who can both climb up all the stairs and walk down as there is a huge line for the elevator.

- Zoomarine. Dolphins, sea lions, exotic birds, splashy rides and swimming pools, some 20km south of Rome near Pomezia. A good day out, but is this really why you came to Rome? Free transport from EUR and Pomezia railway station. Check web site for details. [28]

Do

- Take in a show. There are lots of theatres, but you will need to know Italian to enjoy them. The main concert venue is the Auditorium in Viale Pietro de Coubertin to the north of Rome.[29] The Auditorium at Parco della Musica is a large complex composed of three separate halls whose shapes are inspired by musical instruments. These are positioned around an open air amphitheatre, that is used nearly every night in the summer for concerts. The Parco della Musica hosts a constant stream of classical, popular, and jazz music, featuring national as well as international musicians and groups. Really big names perform outdoors in the summer; usually in either the Olympic Stadium or in Stadio Flaminio, which is next door to the Parco della Musica. In winter the Palalotto in EUR is an important pop concert venue.

To get full details of what is on, buy a copy of the La Republicca newspaper on Thursdays, when it has an insert called TrovaRoma. There are a couple of pages in English but even with no Italian you should be able to decipher the main listings. This is not published in late July and August, when half of Rome heads to the beach. Both La Republicca and Il Messaggero have daily listings.

- Walk and feel the energy of Rome; sights are everywhere waiting to be discovered.

- Explore the Trastevere neighbourhood for some great cafes and trattorie, and a glimpse at a hip Roman neighbourhood.

- Take in a game of soccer at the Olympic Stadium. Rome has two teams, A.S. Roma and S.S. Lazio and they both play at this stadium.

Events

- Estate Romana Festival (Roman Summer Festival) - from late June through early September offers various musical events of jazz, rock, and classical music, and film, sport, theater and children’s fun.

- White Night (Notte Bianca) [30] - in early to mid-September, various events until dawn, plus shops and restaurants, museums stay open while the Roman Notte Bianca stages music, dance and theater events. Expect enormous crowds; buses and trams will be packed to the brim.

- Opera at Caracalla, Baths of Caracalla (see Rome/Aventino-Testaccio), [31]. If you are in Rome during summertime don’t miss the chance to experience a lyric opera in the truly unique setting of the Caracalla Baths. The 2009 program included Tosca, Carmen and Midsummer Night’s Dream. Performances start at 21.00.

Learn

Rome is replete with foreign language and cultural institutions. Of course, learning Italian is a worthwhile activity if you plan to stay for any length of time. If you plan to combine a stay in Rome with academic study, there are several English-language universities.

- The regional government and two historical societies are offering free Latin classes to tourists. [32].

- The Historical Group of Rome runs a gladiator school. 18 Via Appia Antica. ph 00396 51607951. [33].

Work

If you want to work ask around at the hostels, hotels and restaurants. There are differing views on how easy it is to get a job in Rome, however. There is high unemployment and most jobs seem to go on a family - friends - other Romans - other Italians - white EU - other foreigners pecking order. Knowing Italian helps. And be wary about making any financial commitments before you've actually been paid -- late and non-payment is common here, and you may find as a non-Roman you are more likely to be seen as an easy target for this. You will also need a permesso di soggiorno, whether or not you are an EU resident. Legally, you are required to have a working visa, although it is very easy to work and live without one.

There are numerous schools to teach the English language in Rome and if you are a mother-tongue this may be the best opportunity of picking up part-time work.

Talk

In Rome, obviously, the population speaks Italian. The road signs are mostly in Italian (except for "STOP"). If you are staying in the city there are plenty of English alternatives to be found. Seeing as Rome is a popular place to visit there are maps and information in many languages available. Police officers and transit drivers are more than willing to help you get around and usually provide easier ways to get around.

Some residents still speak the ancient local language romanesco; nowadays, however, Italian is the more common mother tongue.

English is widely spoken in Rome by the younger generations and by people working in the tourist industry. Since many people have a limited knowledge of English, it is wise to speak slowly and simply. Among 40+s the chance is a lot less, and with 60+s as good as zero.

Romance languages other than Italian, especially Spanish, Portuguese, Romanian and French, are also fairly widely understood due to their similarity to Italian, although not necessarily spoken.

Buy

Rome has excellent shopping opportunites of all kinds - clothing and jewellery (it has been nominated as a top fashion capital) to art and antiques. You also get some big department stores, outlets and shopping centres, notably in the suburbs and outskirts.

Main shopping areas include Via del Corso, Via Condotti, and the surrounding streets. The finest designer stores are around Via Condotti, whilst Via del Corso has more affordable clothing, and Via Cola di Rienzo, and the surroundings of Via del Tritone, Campo de'Fiori, and Pantheon are the places to go for cheaper items. Upim is a good shop for cheap clothing of workable quality. Some brands (like Miss Sixty and Furla) are excellent, some are not as good - be sure to feel garments and try them on. There are also great quality shoes and leather bags at prices that compare well with the UK and US. But when shopping for clothes note that bigger sizes than a UK size 16/US 12 aren't always easy to find. Children's clothing can be expensive with basic vests (tank tops) costing as much as €21 in non-designer shops. If you really need to buy clothers for kids try the Oviesse chain. Summer sales in many stores begin around July 15th and Rome also has New Year sales.

As mentioned above, Via Condotti is Rome's top haute couture fashion street (equivalent of Fifth Avenue in New York City, Via Montenapoleone in Milan, or Bond Street in London). Here, you can find big brand names such as Gucci, Armani, Dior, Valentino and Hermès, and several other high-class shops. However, the streets around the Via Condotti, such as Via Frattina, Via del Babuino, Via Borgognona and the Piazza di Spagna also offer some excellent high fashion boutiques, including Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Prada and Givenchy (and several others). So once in the city, the big boutique names aren't absent. In these luxurious streets, however, you needen't only do clothing shopping - there are some really good and funky jewellery (e.g. Bulgari, Cartier, Tiffany's & Co.), pen and accessory (i.e. Mont Blanc) and artsy stores peppered here and there in these streets.

If you want to spend a day in a large shopping mall, there's the Euroma2 with about 230 shops (mainly clothes and accessories) and restaurants, to be found near the EUR district. Take Metro B line from Termini to EUR Palasport station, cross the road and take the frequent free bus (ride takes 5-15 minutes) to the mall. In addition to many shops and food, the conditioned air and free toilets may be a welcome relief if you are in Rome during mid-summer. La Rinascente, Rome's first department store, having been opened in 1887, is also a good retail department store, selling fashion, design, houseware and beauty products. If you like Abercrombie & Fitch or Hollister, you have an Abercrombie & Fitch Italia store in the Via Collatina.

There are lots of fake plastic 'Louis Vuitton' bags being sold at the side of the road. Be aware, that buying of fake products is illegal in Italy. Fines up to €1000 have been reported. If you are happy to take the risk, make sure you haggle; unsuspecting tourists pay up to €60 for them.

If you want to buy souvenirs or gifts, a museum would be the worst choice since there are many stalls along the streets of touristic areas that offer reasonable prices. It is likely that the same item in the gift shop of any museum will cost much more.

Factory outlets

- Castel Romano, near Rome, along the Via Pontina highway, [34]. A very large Factory Outlet with more than 100 branded shops. A car is needed to reach the place but a 30% discount in a designer shop is surely worth the 20km trip.

- Valmontone, [35]. A little further away from Rome than Castel Romano, you can find Valmontone outlet on the motorway towards Napoli just 50 Km far from Rome. Valmontone itself is a delightful little town - 30 mins by train.

Eat

Individual listings can be found in Rome's district articles

Rome is full of good restaurants, many in attractive settings, particularly when you sit outside in the evening. No one location can be recommended to search for a good restaurant: some of the best places to eat are in the most unpromising locations while well-situated restaurants can often live on their reputation rather than the quality of their food. Restaurants in guidebooks can be good but prices can be inflated because it is more than likely a "tourist trap." To find an authentic restaurant that wont break the bank try to find a place in a more residential area or somewhere that isn't in the middle of the tourist locations.

Eat like a Roman

In Rome you can ask for:

- Carciofi alla romana - Artichokes, Roman style

- Carciofi alla giudia - Artichokes, Jewish style

- Puntarelle - Chicory salad

- Bucatini all'Amatriciana - A pasta dish

- Spaghetti (or Rigatoni) alla Carbonara - A sauce made with egg and pancetta (bacon)

- Abbacchio a "scottadito" - lamb chops

- Scaloppine alla romana - Veal sautéed with fresh baby artichokes

- Coda alla vaccinara - Oxtail stew

- Cornetto & cappuccino - Sweet pastry and coffee

- Pizza a Taglio - Pizza by the slice.

- Panino - Italian Sandwich

- Trippa alla romana - Tripe, Offal is a roman tradition, e.g. osso buco, bone marrow.

- Fiori di Zucca fritti - Zucchini Flower, prepared in a deep fried batter.

Many of the good restaurants in Rome are hard to find, but a good tip is to go where Italians live and eat. On the top of the green, old mountain (Monte Verde Vecchio) there are some trattorias with authentic Italian cuisine at an affordable price. Rome also has many beautiful spots to eat, so buying some delicacies to make up a picnic can be a great experience. In Via Marmorata you find Volpetti's which is known for its amazing selection of cheese, prosciutto and delicous pastries (and also for its prices!). A more affordable choice is to go to a local supermarket which will also have good fresh foods for lunch.

Pizza

Most pizza restaurants serve it only in the evening. Try some of the fried things like baccala (battered salt cod) for a starter, followed by a pizza for a really Roman meal. Roman pizzas tend to be very thin crusted. Avoid the tourist areas where you'll often pay double the going rate just to get a badly reheated frozen pizza.

Pizza al Taglio is pizza with a thicker crust, cooked in a large pan. This is served by the piece, usually to take away, and is a good cheap way to get something to fill you up. Point to the one you want, indicate if you want more or less than your server is indicating with the knife. It's sold by weight (the listed price is usually per 100 gm, known in Rome as an etto).

Ice cream

Look for a gelateria with a big plastic sign with a big 'G' on it outside. This means it has a guild association and will be good quality. Remember that it costs extra to sit inside. You pay for your ice cream first...take your receipt and go fight your way through the throng to choose your flavors. You will be asked "Panna?" when it's almost made - this is the offer of whipped cream on top. If you've already paid, this is free.

There are a few signs to keep in mind: "Produzione Propria" (homemade - our own production), "Nostra Produzione" (our production), "Produzione Artigianale" (production by craftsmen). If the colors seem dull and almost ugly it is probably natural, the bright colors being just a mix. Keep in mind, Italians usually won't queue, but if they are in line for gelato, get in line yourself, you may have hit the jackpot. Producers to try include Gelato di San Crispino [36]; Giolitti [37]; and Fassi [38].

Vegetarians

Vegetarians should have an easy time. Buffets in many restaurants usually have a good range of delicious vegetarian stuff - eg gratinated roast peppers/aubergines, etc. Vegans should do all right too; pizzas don't always have cheese - a Marinara for example, is just tomato, garlic and oregano.

Kosher dining

While there is not much choice, at least Rome's Kosher cooking is truly excellent. Try La Taverna del Ghetto in the heart of the Jewish Quarter.

Pricing

You can get cheap food in Rome, the problem is that if you don't know the city well or are forced to eat out in the centre, the prices go up.

- €3.5 - You buy the pizza and eat it walking around, since it's a bread shop with no sitting area. You can choose how much you want to eat, but you'll be spending about €2 per slice + about €1.50 for a can of soda or €1 for water.

- €15-20 - At lunchtime if you go to a restaurant you'll be spending between €15 for a set menu (not always good, try to go where you see Italian office people having their lunch as your best bet) and €20. For this you should get a pasta dish and a second course (meat) ending with coffee. Obviously if you have special wine the price will increase.

- €20 - At night you can spend about €20 at a pizza restaurant or if you have only one main course. Again, if you have special wine it will cost more.

- €20+ - For a sit down lunch or dinner in a restaurant €20 is cheap and if you want you can go up to €200 a head.

Chinese restaurants are still quite cheap but other ethnic restaurants (Thai, Indian) are generally expensive (think €30 upwards per person). Sushi is very expensive (€40 minimum per person).

Waitresses have been known to take advantage of patrons by bringing more expensive items than what was ordered or asking for a tip although it's not mandatory and should be included in the price by law.

Drink

Coffee

Starbucks has so far avoided Rome. And no wonder: Italian coffee is great so our friends from Seattle would face a lot of competition. A latte in Italian is just a glass of milk. If you're expecting coffee in that glass, you should ask for a caffe latte. A latte macchiato (meaning "marked") is steamed milk stained with a smaller shot of espresso. "Espresso" or "normale" is just that, but more commonly just referred to as caffe. Espresso doppio means a double shot of espresso, while espresso macchiato is espresso 'marked' with a dab of steamed milk. Americano — the one to order if you like filter coffee — is espresso diluted with hot water and not drunk much by Italians. Cappuccino is well known outside of Italy, but be warned: it is considered very un-classy, and somewhat childish, to order one after 11AM (and certainly after a meal). Decaffeinato is self explanatory, but often referred to by the common brand-name Caffe Hag.

Wine and water

House wines are almost always drinkable and inexpensive (unlike, say, in the UK). Most trattorie would not be caught dead serving poor wine. You may often find a bottle of wine on the table for you. Believe it or not: this bottle will be less expensive than a glass would be in the US or UK, possibly only €4 or €5. This does not always apply to those places that look really tourist-trap-like! Slightly better quality wines are usually sold at a relatively small mark-up on shop prices. Most Romans drink water with their meals. In restaurants it normally comes in 1 litre bottles and can be had normale (still water) or gassata (carbonated water).

Water is free at designated water fountains, called "nasone" (big nose). Some of these date back to ancient times, and the water is still very good. It's fresh spring water coming from the famous underground springs of Rome and is safe to drink. If you carry an empty bottle, fill it up for the rest of the day. Look for the drinking fountain with constant running water, plug the bottom hole, and cool water will shoot up from a smaller hole on top of the tap. Don't put your lips round the hole at the bottom, as stray dogs tend to like to get a drink.

Before dinner

Pre-dinner drinks (aperitivi) accompanied with small hors d'oeuvres (antipasti) are very popular with Romans: 1) chic yuppies in their 20s-30s crowd the area around Piazza delle Coppelle (behind the Parliament) and Piazza di Pietra (near the Chamber of Commerce); 2) younger generations sprawl around the square and streets of Campo de' Fiori; 3) everyone sits to drink in the narrow streets behind the Pantheon (Piazza Pasquino and Via del Governo Vecchio).

Clubbing & Night Life

Given a heart for exploration, Testaccio is the place to wander for after-dinner partying on the weekends. Head down there around 11PM (take metro Line B and get off at Piramide station) and listen for music. There are usually loads of people simply walking through the streets or looking for parking. Be brave, walk in, meet some wonderful Romans. This area is best in the winter. In the summer, the dancing moves to Ostia and Fregene, 45 minutes by car from Rome, at the seaside. Many clubs in Rome close in the summer months.

Many visitors like to go on Roman pub crawls. The Colosseum Pub Crawl[39] for example, has been throwing parties since 1999.

To the east of Termini Station, and near the first University of Rome "La Sapienza", is the San Lorenzo district, where you will find many pubs and clubs where university students and young Romans in their twenties spend their nights. On Saturday night the streets are crowded with people moving from one pub to another. On the city side of the railway, near Santa Maria Maggiore Cathedral, are some great Irish pubs, i.e. the Fiddler's Elbow [40], the oldest in Rome, where many English-speaking residents and Italian customers like to sip their pints. It's a good place to meet Romans who speak English. Also nearby are the Druid's Den and the Druid's Rock [41] .

On Via Nazionale there's a huge and beautiful pub called The Flann o'Brien [42] , one of the biggest in Rome. On the same street near Piazza Venezia there is another cluster of pubs including The Nag's Head Scottish Pub [43]. After 22.00 it's very expensive as it becomes more like like a disco. Entrance with first drink costs €13 and drinks cost €8. Before midnight they sometimes host live music concerts. In the same area, at the beginning of Via Vittorio Emanuele II you can find The Scholar's Lounge Irish pub [44] with nice music. This is definitely worth a look but there is no room to dance. During winter American colleges students residents in Rome end up their highly alcoholic nights here. Also nearby there's the Trinity College Irish Pub [45]. Drinks are quite expensive there.

Also on Via Vittorio Emanuele, near Piazza Navona, there's the Bulldog's Inn English pub. DJs play very good music there and there's room to dance, although few do. Nearby in Campo dei fiori there are several crowded pubs. Beware, there have been huge and serious fights there. In the narrow streets behind Piazza Navona there are also many places to go. Try Jonathan's Angels in Via del Fico. Also the Abbey Theatre Irish pub [46]is a good place in Via del Governo Vecchio.

On the other side of the River Tiber (Tevere) is Trastevere district where there are many places to eat and drink. This is also a good place where to enjoy a walk in crowded streets at night. In summer time on Isola Tiberina, the island in the Tiber, temporary bar are built and there are all sorts of things to do.

Far from the center there are some other good places. The Palacavicchi in a small suburban town called Ciampino is a multi-dance room area where they play different kinds of music, mostly Latin American. You definitely need to get a cab to get there and it won't cost less than €20. South of Ciampino Airport there is The Ice Palace [47] for ice skating, and the Kirby's[48] and the Geronimo pubs. All of them are nice places. At the Geronimo[49] pub before midnight there usually are live music concerts with many bands covering different genres. On Friday and Saturday nights after the concert they play disco music. Entrance is free and you may drink and eat as you feel. Very cool place and for every budget. Unfortunately you need a cab to get there.

Those Romans who speak fluent English usually have a great deal of confidence with tourists, so just offer them a beer and they will be glad to share with you their tip & tricks about night life in Rome.

Discos: There are many beautiful discos. Unfortunately the city is huge and it's not very easy to find them, unless you have a very good guide.

The best way to start is from the most established ones: Piper, Gilda, Alien, all of them run by the Midra Srl [50]. Their website is nothing to write home about but can be used to discover telephone numbers and addresses. Gilda is near the Spanish Steps, and the others not too far from Termini station. During summer they close to move to the seaside of Fregene (north of Fiumicino and Ostia) where Gilda on the Beach can be found.

A pint of beer in pubs usually costs around €6, entrance in discos around €20 with first drink included. Drinks in discos cost around €10.

Gay travellers

One of the places to be on Friday nights is Giardino delle Rose in via Casilina Vecchia 1 (rather central but reachable only by taxi): a luxurious garden with open-air bars and tables. Two large discos are Muccassassina in via di Portonaccio at Qube on Friday, and Gorgeus I Am in via del commercio at Alpheus on Saturday. There are also other gay events and gay discos that you can find on the gay map of Rome. During summer discos are closed and all the gay disco nights are at Gay Village in the Eur zone (where you can arrive with Metro Line B). During the week the main meeting place after dinner is Coming Out (a bar right in front of the Colosseum) in Via di San Giovanni in Laterano (the roman Gay Street) where crowds of gay Romans and tourists gather in and outside, all year round but overwhelmingly crowded during the summer or late-night clubs such as Hangar in Via in Selci (Metro Line B, get off at Cavour station). The best sauna (open 24 hours during week ends) is Europa Multiclub in via Aureliana (behind Piazza Esedra, Metro Line A Repubblica station). A meeting spot for gays day and (especially) night is Monte Caprino, the park on the Palatine hill behind the City Hall (Piazza Venezia) with spectacular views over the temples and ruins of ancient Rome.

Sleep

Note: As from the beginning of January 2011 Rome's city council now levies an accommodation tax. This is €2 per night per person for campsites up to three-star hotels and €3 a night for four- and five-star hotels. This fee is supposed to be for the restoration of Rome's crumbling ruins. Apparently it can only be paid in cash.

The area to the southwest of Termini railway station has numerous large hotels; these are used in particular by groups and coach parties. On the other side of the station are many smaller, fairly inexpensive, hotels that are popular with individual travellers. Perhaps the best choice for a first-time visitor is to stay right downtown, (such as near the Pantheon). Most attractions are walking distance from there, and you will save much transportation time and leave more for enjoying the city. Hotels in the downtown area are costly, but a good apartment is a decent alternative, especially for couples and if you don't mind cooking yourself from time to time: it will save even more of your budget.

Offering of short term apartment rentals is enormous. Many apartments can be booked directly through the owner, but most owners make arrangements via rental agencies, both large and small. When looking for a hotel or an apartment in Rome, take note that the price of accommodations varies significantly from month to month, depending on typical amount of tourists—always check prices at your accommodation for your specific dates.

Being as it is one of the world's most popular tourist destinations, there are tons of choices for where to stay, and you will have the choice of whatever type of accommodation you wish.

Warning! Rome hotel touts

This Rome guide is heavily frequented by business owners keen on adding their own hotel or rental agency. While the worst of them are removed on a regular basis, you should always check other reviews before commiting. Many unscrupulous hotel owners are also busy creating false reviews of their accommodation on sites like Tripadvisor and Hotels.com - so tread carefully!

Note Hotel listings can be found in the appropriate districts, and should be added there. Please do not add listings here.

- Modern Center

- Old Rome

- Vatican

- Colosseo

- North Center

- Trastevere

- Aventino-Testaccio

- Esquilino-San Giovanni

- Nomentano

- North

- South

Camping

There are at least three campsites near Rome, they are:

- Camping Tiber, Via Tiberina Km. 14, Prima Porta (On Rome's ringroad, take exit No 6 Via Flaminia, if arriving by public transport, take the ground-level Roma-Nord Subway leaving from Piazza Flaminia towards Prima Porta, from there there is a free shuttle service to the Camp Site), 06 33610733 (fax: 06 33612314). On the bank of the river from which it draws its name. To the north of the city. There's a minimarket, a pool, a restaurant and a bar.

- Happy Valley, (In the hills north of the city at Via Prato della Corte 1915, Prima Porta-Cassia Bis, Roma. Take exit no 5 from Rome's ring road and head towards Cassia-Veientana. If you take public transport, take the ground-level Roma-Nord Subway leaving from Piazza Flaminia towards Prima Porta and wait for the free shuttle bus service.), 06.33626401 (fax: 06.33613800). It has a pool, a bar, a restaurant and a minimarket.

Contact

- Tourist information [51], Via Parigi 5, tel.: 36004399, open Mon to Sat 8am to 7pm

- Tourist information points (PIT), open daily 9am to 6pm

- Via del Corso, Largo Goldoni, tel.: 68136061

- Castel Sant'Angelo, Piazza Pia, tel.: 68809707

- Fori Imperiali, Piazza Tempio della Pace, tel.: 69924307

- Piazza Navona, Piazza delle Cinque Lune, tel.: 68809240

- Via Nazionale, Piazza delle Esposizioni, tel.: 47824525

- Trastevere, Piazza San Sonnino, tel.: 58333457

- San Giovanni in Laterano, Piazza San Giovanni, tel.: 77203535

- Santa Maria Maggiore, Via dell_OLmata, tel.: 4740995

- Termini (arrivals), Piazza dei Cinquecenti, tel.: 47825194

- Termini, Galleria Gommata, Terminal 4, tel.: 48906300

- Fontana di Trevi, Via Marco Mingehtti, tel.: 3782988

Respect

Romans regularly interact with foreigners and tourists; it shouldn't be hard to find friendly help provided you know some Italian. As for most every place in Italy, just be polite and you won't have much trouble.

If you hit someone with your luggage or shoulder while walking on a street, say "sorry" (Mi scusi): despite being very busy, Rome is not London or New York and going ahead is considered bad behaviour, while a little apology will be satisfactory.

In buses or trains, let older people have your seat if there's no space available. The gesture will be appreciated. Romans, and Italians as well, are very chaotic while in a queue, and often "clump" without any particular order: It's considered unpolite, but they do it anyway. Be careful while driving, as Romans often drive frantically and bend the rules to cope with the heavy traffic.

If you are a young lady, you may get "shoutouts" or wolf whistles. Don't take offense to it, don't react to it either. Italian men are a nice bunch and when they see an attractive lady - they call it. So if this happens to you, just stick your nose up and walk by. They are not trying to harm you.

Stay safe

Rome is generally a safe place, even for women traveling alone. There is very little violent crime, but plenty of scams and pickpocketing that target tourists. As in any other big city, it is better if you don't look like a tourist: don't exhibit your camera or camcorder to all and sundry, and keep your money in a safe place. Consciousness and vigilance are your best insurances for avoiding becoming a victim of a crime in Rome. Remember, if you are pickpocketed or victim of another scam, don't be afraid to shout, "Aiuto, al ladro!" (Help, Thief!) Romans will not be nice to the thief.

Members of the Italian public are likely to be sympathetic if you are a crime victim. Police are also generally friendly if not always helpful. Carabinieri (black uniform, red striped trousers) are military police, and Polizia (blue and grey uniform) are civilians, but they both do essentially the same thing and are equally good, or bad. If you are robbed, try to find a police station and report it. This is essential to establishing a secure insurance claim and to replace documents: the chances of it resulting in the return of your possessions are, however, fairly remote.

Rome is home to two rival Serie A football clubs, A.S. Roma and S.S. Lazio, and there is a history of conflict, and even rioting, between the two. Never wear anything that shows that you support either of them, especially during the Rome Derby (when the two clubs play each other): avoid even wandering into groups of supporters of the other club, or you may be subject to heckling or even confrontation. Play it safe and refrain from openly supporting either club unless you are very familiar with the rivalry. If you are a fan of a foreign team that is playing in Rome, be very careful as a number of supporters have been stabbed over the past few years.

Pickpocketing

Since Rome is incredibly popular as a tourist destination, a great deal of pickpocketing and bag or purse snatching takes place, especially in crowded locations, and pickpocketers in Rome can get pretty crafty. A 2010 study found that Rome was second only to Barcelona for pickpocketing of tourists.

As a rule, you should pretty much never carry anything very valuable in any outside pocket, especially the front pocket of your pants is one of the easiest and most common targets. Keeping your wallet in your front pocket or in your bag is far from safe. You should consider using a money belt and carry only the cash for the day in your pocket.

Also, beware of thieves--one popular technique that they use is to ride by you on a moped, slice the strap of a handbag with a knife, and ride off. They might also try to cut the bottom of your bag open and pick your wallet from the ground. Others will use the old trick of one person trying to distract you (asking for a cigarette or doing a strange dance) while another thief picks your pockets from behind. Bands of gypsy kids will sometimes crowd you and reach for your pockets under the cover of newspapers or cardboard sheets. It is generally a good idea to be extremely wary of any strange person who gets too close to you, even in a crowd. If someone is in your personal space, shove the person away. As one frequent traveller put it, "Don't be afraid to be a dick in Rome." It is better to be rude than to to be stolen from.

Termini (the main railway station), Esquilino, bus line 64 (Termini to San Pietro), and the Trevi fountain are well-known for pickpockets, so take extra care in these areas. On the Metro especially, pickpockets are extremely skilled.

Remember that hotel rooms are not safe places for valuables; if your room has no safe, give your valuables to the hotel staff for safekeeping. Even if it does have a safe, hotels normally warn that they have no liability unless items are deposited in the main safe.

Be aware of the danger and take the usual precautions and you should be all right.

Tourist scams

Read up on the legends concerning tourist scams. Most of them occur regularly in Rome and you will want to see them coming.

A particular scam is when some plainclothes police will approach you, asking to look for "drug money," or ask to see your passport. This is a scam to take your money. You can scare them by asking for their ID. Guardia di Finanza (the grey uniformed ones) do customs work.

A recent scam involves men working near the Spanish Steps, around Piazza Navona, and outside of the Colosseum. They approach you, asking where you are from, and begin to tie bracelets around your wrists. When they are done they will try to charge you upwards of €20 for each bracelet. If anyone makes any attempt to reach for your hand, retract quickly. If you get trapped, you can refuse to pay, but this may not be wise if there are not many people around. Carry small bills or just change, in your wallet, so if you find yourself in cornered to pay for the bracelet, you can convince them that €1 or €2 is all you have.

When taking a taxi, be sure to remember license number written on the card door. In seconds, people have had a taxi bill risen by €10 or even more. When giving money to taxi driver, be careful.

Be careful of con-men who may approach you at tourist sights such as the Colosseum or Circus Maximus. A car may pull up next to you, and the driver asks you for directions to the Vatican. He will strike up a conversation with you while he sits in his car and tell you he is a sales representative for a large French fashion house. He will then tell that you he likes you and he would like to give you a gift of a coat worth several thousand euros. As you reach inside his car to take the bag the coat is in, he will ask you for €200 for gas, as his car is nearly empty.

Around tourist sites like the Trevi Fountain, Colosseum and the Spanish Steps there are groups mostly of men trying to sell cheap souvenirs. They may also carry roses and say they are giving you a gift because they like you but the minute you take their'gift' they demand money. They are often very insistent and often the only way to get rid of them is to be plain rude. Do the best you can to not take their "gifts" as they will follow you around asking for money. Simply saying "no" or "go away" will get them off your back until the next vendor comes up to you.

Be wary of places to change currency. Read ALL signs before changing money. Often times places set up just for currency exchange will add as much as a 20% service fee on all money being traded. The shops near the Vatican have especially high service fees, whereas places near the Trevi Fountain will be more reasonable. The best bet is to change enough money before you leave your home country. There are few places around the city that are under the table and are just interested in American money. These places charge no service fee.

The best advice to avoid scams is to get way from anyone that you have never seen before who starts talking to you.

Emergencies

In an emergency, call 112 (Carabinieri), 113 (Police), 118 (medical first aid) or 115 (firemen). Carry the address of your embassy or consulate.

On anything else you may need for your rome holiday, you can contact the official help line of the Minister of Tourism 039.039.039. From monday to sunday, from 9.00 to 22.00, in seven languages seven days a week.

Cope

- Police. To report theft you should generally go to the Carabinieri station nearest where the theft occured. Ask people at the scene of the crime where to go.

- Left Luggage Termini. You can leave luggage at Termini but they have a lot of security and only one X-ray machine so there can be a +100 people queue. It costs about €4 per bag (of any size) for the first 5 hours, €0.80 per bag for each hour thereafter. There's a sign limiting bags to 20kg each, but no facility for weighing them (that I saw) so it's probably not enforced.

- Splashnet laundry, internet, left luggage, Via Varesi 33, 100 m west of Termini. €2 per luggage left (and 15 min of internet included).

Embassies and consulates

- Afghanistan Embassy, +39 06 8611009 (fax: +39 06 86322939), [52].

- Australian Embassy, Via Antonio Bosio 5, +39 06 85 2721 (fax: +39 06 85 272 300), [53]. M-F 8:30AM-4PM.

- Austrian Embassy, Via Pergolesi 3, 068440141 (fax: +39 06 85 43286), [54]. M-F 9AM-noon.

- Brazilian Consulate General, Piazza di Pasquino, 8, +39 06 6889 661 (consulado@brasilroma.it.com, fax: +39 06 6880 2883), [55]. M-F 8:30AM-12PM.

- British Embassy, Via XX Settembre 80, +39 06 4220 0001, +39 06 4220 2603 after hours (fax: +39 06 4220 2347), [56]. M-F 9AM-5PM.

- Bulgarian Embassy, Via Pietro Polo Rubens 21, +39 06 322 46 40, +39 06 322 46 43 (embassy@bulemb.it, fax: +39 06 322 61 22), [57]. M-F 9AM-5PM.

- Chinese Embassy, Via Bruxelles 56, +39 (0)6 8413458 (fax: +39 (0)6 85352891), [58].

- Canadian Embassy, Via Zara 30, +39 06 44598 1 (fax: +39 06 44598 2905), [59].

- Croatian Embassy, Via Luigi Bodio 74/76, +39 06 363 07650 (vrhrim@mvpei.hr, fax: +39 06 3630 3405), [60]. M-F 09.30-12.30.

- Danish Embassy, Via dei Monti Parioli 50, +39 06 9774 831 (romamb@um.dk, fax: +39 06 9774 8399), [61]. M-F 8AM-5:30PM.

- Dutch Embassy, Via Michele Mercati 8, +39 06 3228 6001 (nlgovrom@ambreale.tuttopmi.it, fax: +39 06 3228 6256), [62]. M-F 8AM-5:30PM.

- Estonian Embassy, Ambasciata di Estonia, Viale Liegi 28 int. 5, +39 06 844 075 10 (embassy.rome@mfa.ee, fax: +39 06 844 075 19), [63]. M-F 9AM-12PM.

- Finnish Embassy, Ambasciata di Finlandia, Via Lisbona 3, +39 06 852 231 (sanomat.roo@formin.fi, fax: +39 06 854 0362), [64]. M-F 8AM-5:30PM.

- French Embassy, Piazza Farnese 67, +39 066 86011, [65].

- German Embassy, Ambasciata di Germania, Via San Martino della Battaglia 4, +39 06 49 213-1 (info@rom.diplo.de, fax: +39 06 445 26 72), [66].

- Greek Embassy, Ambasciata di Grecia, Via S. Mercadante 36, +39 06 853 7551 (gremroma@tin.it, fax: +39 06 841 5927), [67].

- Hungarian Embassy, Via Messina, 15 00198 Roma, +39 06 442 49938, 06 442 49939 (konzulatus@tin.it, fax: +39 06 442 49908), [68].

- Indian Embassy, Via XX Settembre, 5, 00187 Rome (Italy), +39 06 4884642/3/4/5 (fax: +39 06 4819539).

- Irish Embassy, Piazza di Campitelli 3, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6979 121 (fax: +39 06 6979 1231), [69]. M-F 10AM-12:30PM / 3PM-4:30PM.

- Lithuanian Embassy, Viale di Villa Grazioli 9, 00198 Rome, +39 06 855 90 52, +39 06 854 04 82 (fax: +39 06 855 90 53), [70]. M-F 07:00AM-05:00PM.

- Macedonian Embassy, Via Bruxelles 73/75, 00198 Rome, +39 06 8419868, +39 06 84241109 (rome@mfa.gov.mk, fax: +39 06 84241131). M-F 9AM-5PM.

- Maltese Embassy, Lungotevere Marzio 12, +39 06 6879990.

- Embassy of Malaysia, Via Nomentana, 297, +39 06 8415764 (0039-06-8415764, fax: +39 06 8555040). 09.00AM-16.00PM (no lunch break).

- New Zealand Embassy, Via Zara 28, +39 06 441 7171 (nzemb.rom@flashnet.it, fax: +39 06 440 2984), [71].

- Norwegian Embassy, Via delle Terme Deciane 7, +39 06 571 7031 (emb.rome@mfa.no, fax: ++39 06 571 70326), [72].

- Embassy of Serbia and Montenegro, Via dei Monti Parioli 20, +39 06 320 07 96, +39 06 320 08 90, +39 06 320 09 59, +39 06 320 08 05 (all night) (info@ambroma.com, fax: +39 06 320-08-68), [73]. telex 616-303

- Pakistan Embassy, Via Della Camilluccia 682, 00135, +39 06 36 1775 (pareprome1@tiscali.it, fax: +39 06 36 301 936), [74]. M-F 9:30AM-4:20PM.

- Polish Embassy, Via P.P.Rubens, 20, +39 06 36 20 42 00, +39 06 36 20 42 04, +39 06 36 20 42 17 (ufficio.stampa@ambasciatapolonia.it, fax: +39 06 32 17 89 5), [75].

- Romanian Embassy, Via Nicolo Tartaglia, 36, +39 06 808 45 29, +39 06 807 88 07, +39 06 808 35 37 (amdiroma@roembit.org, fax: +39 06 808 49 95), [76]. M-F 8.30 - 13.00; 14.00 - 17.30.

- Russian Embassy, (Via Gaeta 5), 06/4941680, 06/4941681 (fax: 06/491031).

- Consulate General of the Republic of Singapore, Via Nazionale, 200,00184 Rome, +39 06 4875 9510 (lbirindelli@bea-law.com, fax: +39 06 4875 9511).

- South African Embassy, Via Tanaro 14, +39 06 85 25 41, [77]. M-F 8AM-4:30PM.

- Spanish Embassy, Palazzo Borghese, Largo Fontanella di Borghese 19, +39 06 684 04 011.

- Turkish Embassy, 28, Via Palestro 00185, +39 06 445 941.

- US Embassy, Via Vittorio Veneto 119/A, +39 06 4674 1 (fax: +39 06 4882 672, +39 06 4674 2356), [78]. 8:30AM-5:30PM.

Get Out

- Especially if you have a rail pass, making Pompeii a day trip, while it is a very full day, is very doable. To reach Pompeii from Rome will take about 3 hours.

- Explore the Etruscan sites of Cerveteri, Tarquinia and Vulci.

- Head to Frascati, one of the historic hill towns to the South East of Rome known as the Castelli Romani. This town has been a popular destination for centuries away from the hustle and bustle of the capital, and this is still true today. Famous worldwide for its white wine, Frascati is a relaxed hill town with a slower pace of life. Just 21km from Rome, Frascati is accessible by bus or train. Trains run from Roma Termini approximately every hour, take about 30 minutes, and cost around € 2. Also in the Castelli is Castel Gandolfo, the summer residence of the Pope. The town overlooks Lake Albano, a popular weekend trip for Romans in the summer. Also accessible by bus and train but there are several interesting towns and villages in the Castelli so hiring a car for the day would be well-rewarded.

- Head to Ostia Antica, the ancient harbor and military colony of Rome. It is accessible by tube every 30 minutes from Stazione Piramide (near the Piramid). It is a monumental area a bit like the Roman Forum. But in Ostia Antica you can get an impression how a Roman city really looked.

- Consider a day trip to Tivoli to see the Villa d'Este with its famous and glorious fountains. Check out the Emperor Hadrian's Villa while you are out there. Hourly trains from Tiburtina; fewer on Sundays.

- Understand the Second World War in Italy by visiting the Anzio beachhead area and Monte Cassino.

- Go to Ischia and Capri - the famed islands in the Gulf of Naples.

- Discover the papal city of Viterbo, well-known medieval and thermal destination (about 1 and half hours from Rome)

- Civitavecchia, the port of Rome, is the point of arrival and departure of hundreds of ships, cruises, and ferries travelling all around the Mediterranean. From here it is possible to reach Sardinia, Corsica, Sicily, Spain, France, some other small islands, and even north Africa. A good transportation system links the port to the Eternal City.

District Norrmalm Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Cafes

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
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See
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- The Stockholm Public Library (Stadsbiblioteket), Sveavägen 73 (T Rådmansgatan) [1]. Built in 1928 and designed by the famous Swedish architect Erik Gunnar Asplund, the interior of the cylinder-shaped main hall is spectacular, with three floors of bookshelves covering 360 degrees of circular wall. Books (both fiction and non-fiction) are available in many different languages, including English and German. On the cliff overlooking it is the old Observatory, which has a fine view of the city to the east. There is also a small cafe.

- Klara kyrka, Klarabergsgatan 37 (T T-Centralen), +46 8 723 30 31 [2]. Open M-Su 10AM-5PM. Centrally located close to the Sergels Torg square, this large redbrick church was constructed in the 16th century, following the demolition of a 13th-century nunnery. The 116-metre steeple is the second highest in Scandinavia and the fifth highest building in Sweden, making it a significant landmark. The artwork inside includes an 18th-century altarpiece. In the cemetery, a stone commemorates the 18th-century composer Carl Michael Bellman, a well-known Swedish songwriter.

- Adolf Fredriks kyrka, Holländargatan 16 (T Hötorget or T Rådmansgatan), +46 8 20 70 76 [3]. Open to the public M 1-7PM, Tu-Sa 10AM-4PM, Su 10:30AM-4PM. Adolf Fredriks kyrka, named after King Adolf Fredrik, was built in 1768-1774. The exterior is quite intact while the interior was radically changed in the 1890s. In the church there is a monument to the philosopher Cartesius, who died in Stockholm. Today, the church is probably most known for the burial place of former Prime Minister Olof Palme, who was assassinated on Sveavägen not far from the church. The grave can be found just to the south of the church building.

- Museum of Modern Art (Moderna Museet), Slupskjulsvägen 7-9 (T Kungsträdgården and bus 65) [4]. Open Tu 10AM-8PM, W-Su 10AM-6PM. Stockholm's museum of modern art is headed by Lars Nittve, formerly of London's Tate Modern. . These museums have several works by famous artists - Pablo Picasso, Henri Mattise, Salvador Dalí and Irving Penn, an American photographer. Although its Stockholm counterpart might not have as vast a collection, there is still enough to satisfy both the modern art buff as well as the curious amateur. Also, the building, by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo, is a sight in itself. Admission 80SEK (60SEK reduced price).

- Architecture Museum (right next to the Museum of Modern Art)

- National Museum (Nationalmuseum), Södra Blasieholmshamnen (T Kungsträdgården) [5]. Open Tu 11AM-8PM, W-Su 11AM-5PM. For those more interested in classical art, Nationalmuseum offers pieces by Rembrandt, Rubens, Goya, Renoir, Degas and Gauguin, as well as well-known Swedish artists such as Carl Larsson, Ernst Josephson, C F Hill and Anders Zorn. The museum also has a collection of applied art, design, and industrial design. The museum is situated in a beautiful 19th century building and has a nice café in its atrium. Admission 90SEK (70SEK reduced price).

- Prince Eugen's Waldemarsudde, Prins Eugens Väg 6, +46 8 545 837 00, [6]. Open 11AM-5PM (Th 11AM-8PM). Prince Eugen (1865-1947) was the son of King Oscar II and an avid art collector. His beautiful palace on Djurgården is now a museum housing his enormous art collection spanning the 1880-1940 period.

- The House of Culture (Kulturhuset), Sergels torg (T T-Centralen), [7]. Main galleries open M-F 11AM-8PM, Sa-Su 11AM-5PM. Kulturhuset, a 1970s concrete building in the middle of the modernist city centre, is operated by the city and a venue for art exhibitions and performances. The building also houses the Stockholm City Theatre, a library, restaurants, and much more. On ground level there is an Internet café.

- In the last few years, several trendsetting galleries for contemporary art have opened around Hudiksvallsgatan in Vasastan (T St Eriksplan). Among them are brandstrom stockholm (Hudiksvallsgatan 6, +46 8 660 41 53, [8]), Andréhn-Schiptjenko (Hudiksvallsgatan 8, +46 8 612 00 75, [9]), Natalia Goldin Gallery (Hudiksvallsgatan 8, +46 8 411 94 13, [10]), Nordenhake (Hudiksvallsgatan 8, +46 8 21 18 92, [11]) and ALP (Torsgatan 41, [12]).

- Bonniers konsthall, Torsgatan 19 (T St Eriksplan), +46 8 736 42 48 [13]. Open W 11AM-8PM, Th-Su 11AM-5PM (closed during the summer). This new exhibition hall, opened in 2005 by the Bonnier family, owners of Sweden's largest media empire, showcases Swedish and international contemporary art. Adults 40SEK.

- The Royal University College of Fine Arts (Kungliga konsthögskolan), Flaggmansvägen 1, Skeppsholmen (T Kungsträdgården or bus 65 from Vasagatan), +46 8 614 40 00 [14].

- Among the most controversial new pieces of public art in Stockholm in recent years is the monument to Raoul Wallenberg between the adjacent squares Nybroplan and Berzelii Park (T Kungsträdgården or T Östermalmstorg). The sculpture group, consisting of twelve low black figures, by the Danish artist Kirsten Ortwed, inaugurated in 2001, has been both praised and compared to human feces.

Do
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- Vanadisbadet, Sveavägen 142 (T Rådmansgatan), +46 8 34 33 00. Vanadisbadet has an adventure swimming pool with water slides and spa services. NOTE: Currently closed.

- Centralbadet, Drottninggatan 88 (entrance from the courtyard) (T Hötorget), +46 8 545 213 15, [15]. Open Mon-Fri 6AM-8PM, Sat 8AM-8PM, Sun 8AM-5PM. Located in one of Stockholm's most beautiful art noveau buildings, this is a place where you can go for a swim, have a beer in the sauna bar or enjoy a full spa treatment. Rather expensive and sometimes crowded on weekends. Adults 130SEK (Friday after 3PM and all day Saturday 180 SEK), includes entrance to pool, jacuzzi, gym and saunas. University students and seniors 70SEK Sun-Fri until 3PM. Most spa treatments 350-700SEK. NOTE: pools, restaurant, saunas, gym and relax department are currently closed for renovation (as October 3, 2010).

- Sturebadet, Sturegallerian 36 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 545 015 00, [16]. Open Mon-Fri 6:30AM-10PM, Sat-Sun 9AM-7PM. Considering the fact that the entrance is located in the exclusive Östermalm shopping centre Sturegallerian, it is hardly a surprise that Sturebadet is the most exclusive spa in central Stockholm. For those who can afford it, this place offers luxury in a listed 1880s building (faithfully reconstructed after a fire in 1985). Entrance costs 495SEK (Fri-Sun 595). It includes rented towel, robe and slippers, and entrance to pool, spa-section, gym and saunas. Most spa treatments 540SEK and upwards.

- Skandia, Drottninggatan 82 (T Hötorget). This 1850s building houses a 1920s cinema designed by the Stockholm Public Library architect Erik Gunnar Asplund. A beautiful and intimate setting.

- Casino Cosmopol, Kungsgatan 65 (T T-Centralen), +46 8 781 88 00 [17]. Open daily 1PM-5AM. Minimum 20 years of age, photo ID required. If you find yourself longing for an international casino, the Swedish state has heard your needs. In 2003 Stockholm’s first and only casino was opened, drawing a rather diverse crowd. There is a restaurant in the casino as well. Entrance 30SEK. Dress code recommended.

Buy
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- Drottninggatan is a pedestrianised street starting at the Riksbron bridge to Gamla Stan and continuing north up to the Observatorielunden park. The section south of the Sergels torg square is a typical tourist trap, dominated by stores selling tourist souvenirs and cheap clothes, and bland and bleak restaurants. Between Sergels Torg and Kungsgatan you will find the Åhléns and PUB department stores, as well as flagship stores for some national and international clothing chains. North of Kungsgatan, there are more cafés, restaurants and smaller stores.

- Norrmalmstorg, Biblioteksgatan and the southern end of Birger Jarlsgatan, together with crossing streets and the Sturegallerian shopping centre on Stureplan, form the most upscale shopping area in the city, with brands like Emporio Armani (Biblioteksgatan 3, +46 8 678 79 80), Gucci (Birger Jarlsgatan 1, +46 8 545 005 44), Hugo Boss (Birger Jarlsgatan 28, +46 8 611 42 40, Karen Millen (Biblioteksgatan 7, +46 8 611 57 06) and Louis Vuitton (Birger Jarlsgatan 17 A, +46 8 611 92 00).

- Åhléns City, Klarabergsgatan 50 (T T-Centralen), +46 8 676 60 00 [18]. Open M-F 10AM-8PM, Sa 10AM-7PM, Su 11AM-6PM. A large department store in a central location, with a good selection of designer clothing brands. Also beauty products, kitchenware, interior design, records and DVDs, as well as everything else you would expect from a major department store.

- PUB, Hötorget (T Hötorget), +46 8 789 19 30 [19]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM. A classic Stockholm department store founded in 1882. Following something of an identity crisis in recent years, PUB is currently undergoing a major redesign, with the intention of rebranding itself as a store for young fashion and popular culture. A few new street wear shops on the ground floor is a sign of this.

- NK (Nordiska Kompaniet), Hamngatan 18-20 (T T-Centralen), + 46 8 762 80 00 [20]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su noon-4PM. A large, upmarket department store popular with affluent Stockholmers of all ages. Well-known for its elaborate Christmas shop window decorations.

- Gallerian, main entrance: Hamngatan 37 (T T-Centralen or T Kungsträdgården) [21]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su 11AM-5PM. A relatively large and centrally located shopping mall, where you can find many of Sweden’s major mainstream fashion chains as well as some foreign brands such as Topshop/Topman, French Connection, Esprit and United Colors of Benetton.

- Weekday, Drottninggatan 65 (T Hötorget), +46 8 411 29 70. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su 11AM-5PM. Olofsgatan 1 (T Hötorget), +46 8 411 51 50. Open M-F 11AM-7PM, Sa 11AM-5PM, Su 12AM-4PM. Götgatan 21 (T Slussen), +46 8 642 17 72, [22]. Open M-F 11AM-8PM, Sa 11AM-6PM, Su 12AM-5PM. Three stores (the Drottninggatan one being the largest) with a focus on young fashion and street wear. Large assortment of the popular Swedish jeans Cheap Monday, which, surprisingly, is rather cheap.

- Monki, Sergelgatan 16-18 (T Centralen or T Hötorget), Götgatan 19 (T Slussen or T Medborgarplatsen) and Götgatan 78 (Skrapan) (T Skanstull or T Medborgarplatsen),[23]. Cheap fashionable clothes for girls.

- Acne, Norrmalmstorg 2 (T Kungsträdgården or T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 611 64 11 and Nytorgsgatan 36 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 640 04 70 [24]. Denim and some inventive young fashion.

- Carin Rodebjer, Jakobsbergsgatan 6, (T Östermalmstorg),+46 8 410 460 95 [25]. Exclusive womens' fashion.

- Filippa K, Biblioteksgatan 2 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 611 88 03, Grev Turegatan 18 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 545 888 88 and Götgatan 36 (Man) +46 8 615 70 80/Götgatan 23 (Women), +46 8 556 985 85 (T Slussen). Everyday fashion with a broad appeal.

- The Stray Boys, Smålandsgatan 9 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 611 65 10 [26]. Exclusive street wear with an edge.

- WESC, Kungsgatan 66 (T Hötorget), +46 8 21 25 15 [27]. Colorful street wear.

- Whyred, Mäster Samuelsgatan 5 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 660 01 70 and Götgatan 36 (inside Bruno, T Slussen), [28]. Laidback minimalistic designs in low-key colors, often with some interesting details.

- Sko dig, Hagagatan 4, second hand store.

- Nu och då, Norrtullsgatan 31, second hand store.

- Little shop of fashion, S:t Eriksgatan 68, second hand store.

- Akademibokhandeln, Mäster Samuelsgatan 28 (T T-Centralen). Stockholm's largest bookstore, with a large selection of books in English as well as many international magazines.

- Bok-Skotten, Regeringsgatan 55 (T T-Centralen). [29]. Discount bookstore with a general selection. (Across the street from the Akademibokhandeln listed above.)

- Megastore, Sergels torg (T T-Centralen), +46 8 566 157 00. A large mainstream media store with all kinds of records, DVDs and computer games.

- For some odd reason, most of Stockholm’s second hand record shops are clustered in the area between Odenplan and St Eriksplan. Some examples (starting from the Odenplan end) are Cosmos Factory and Stockholms Skivbörs (both Upplandsgatan 47), Marquee Records (Odengatan 86), Runtrunt (Odengatan 90) [30], The Beat Goes On Records (St Eriksgatan 67) [31], Record Hunter (St Eriksgatan 70) [32], Skivbörsen (St Eriksgatan 71), and Atlas CD-Börs (St Eriksgatan 78). Most are open M-F 11AM-6PM, Sa 11AM-3PM.

- Orrefors & Kosta Boda, Birger Jarlsgatan 15 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 545 040 84 [33]. Flagship store for two of Sweden's most well-known glassworks.

- R.O.O.M, at PUB Department Store (T Hötorget), +46 8 692 50 00 [34]. Open M-F 10AM-6PM, Sa 10AM-4PM. A large Habitat-like shop full of tasteful modern furniture, textiles and interior design, as well as kitchen utensils and garden accessories.

- Village, Kungsgatan 27 (T Hötorget or T Östermalmstorg), [35].

- Indiska, Drottninggatan 53, Slöjdgatan 11 (T Hötorget or T Centralen) and Västerlånggatan 50 (T Gamla Stan) [36]. Indian style: interior design and clothes.

- Lagerhaus, Drottninggatan 31-37 (T Centralen) [37]. Interior design in cool retro style.

- Clas Ohlson, in Gallerian shopping centre, Hamngatan 37 (T T-Centralen), +46 8 545 189 90 [38]. A large low-price electronics and DIY store. One of the cheaper options if you’re looking for an electric adapter, a hair dryer or some batteries.

Eat
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Cafes
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- Cafe 60, Sveavägen 60. [39] This small café is very popular among students in the northern part of the city. Open until midnight (2 am on Fridays and Saturdays), with free WiFi, a comfortable chairs and with a nice assortment of tea, cakes and sandwiches.

- Cafe Panorama, Kulturhuset's [40] 5th floor (T T-Centralen). A large café with large windows and a nice open terrace overlooking the lively Sergels torg.

- Cafe Ritorno, Odengatan 78 (T Odenplan). Nice café with personal service. Small outdoor service in the summer.

- Mellqvist Bar, Rörstrandsgatan 4 (T St Eriksplan). Thought by some to serve the best coffee in Stockholm. Expect to drink while standing in this very small coffee bar.

- Non Solo Bar, Odengatan 34 (T Odenplan) [41]. An Italian cafe whose baristas have won the Swedish barista championships multiple times. Amazing espressos and cappuccinos and a quite nice assortment of sandwiches.

- Konditori Valand, Surbrunnsgatan 48 (T Rådmansgatan), +46 8 30 04 76. This is an old-style Swedish "konditori" with its 1954 interior almost completely intact. Still owned and operated by the wife of the original designer, this place is a piece of living Swedish history.

Budget
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- Hötorgshallen, Hötorget (T Hötorget), [42]. Open M-Th 10AM-6PM, F 10AM-6:30PM (10AM-6PM 1 Jun-31 Jul), Sa 10AM-4PM (10AM-3PM 1 Jun-31 Jul). Deli market situated in the basement of the cinema Filmstaden Sergel. Here you can get everything from sushi via meze to Swedish meatballs. Most places offer good value for money.

- Kungshallen, Kungsgatan 44 (T Hötorget), [43]. Food court with a wide variety of ethnic foods, across the street from Hötorget. Mostly good value.

- Max, Central Station (T T-Centralen) and Norrmalmstorg (T Östermalmstorg or T Kungsträdgården). Hamburgers in Swedish style. Free Wi-Fi, restrooms and coffee!

- Gooh!, Klarabergsviadukten 49 (T T-Centralen), Norrlandsgatan 15 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 21 08 50 [44]. All open at least M-F 9AM-6PM. Although the name may be strange the food is not. The Gooh! concept is quality microwave-ready dishes that you can heat and eat on the premises or take away. Mains 39-69SEK.

- Fattoush / Roppongi / Panini, Hamngatan 31 (T T-Centralen or T Kungsträdgården). A small three-restaurant food court in a central location between the Gallerian shopping center and the NK department store. Fattoush has tasty Lebanese fast food, Roppongi has decent sushi, and Panini offers a selection of sandwiches and salads.

Mid-range
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- Tennstopet, Dalagatan 50 (T Odenplan), +46 8 32 25 18 [45]. Open M-F 4PM-1AM, Sa-Su 1PM-1AM. More traditional Swedish cooking. On one evening in August each year they will serve the Swedish culinary delicacy Surströmming (fermented herring). Mains 130-265SEK, slightly lower prices at the bar.

- Claes på hörnet, Surbrunnsgatan 20 (T Tekniska Högskolan), +46 816 51 36 [46]. Tracing its history back to 1731, the inn Claes på Hörnet (in literal translation "Claes on the Corner") serves traditional Swedish food in more or less modern forms. The 18th century-inspired dining environment adds to the enjoyment. The inn also has 10 hotel rooms in 18th century style. Mains 145-265SEK.

- Prinsen, Mäster Samuelsgatan 4 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 611 13 31 [47]. Open M-F 11:30AM-11:30PM, Sa 1-11:30PM, Su 5-10:30PM. Traditional Swedish dishes on the more exclusive side, as well as some French bistro classics, all in a very nice setting. Mains 169-299SEK.

- Simons Skafferi No12, Kungsstensgatan 12 (T Tekniska Högskolan), +46 8 612 38 40 [48]. Open Tu-Sa 11AM-11:30PM. Swedish dishes with focus on local and organic ingredients in season, so the menu changes quite often. The employees are very professional and the wine to food pairings are excellent. Open both for lunch and dinner. Lunch 110SEK. Dinner; Mains 150-230SEK.

- Operabaren and Bakfickan, Operahuset, Kungsträdgården (T Kungsträdgården) [49] [50]. Two restaurants in the Royal Opera house, sharing the same menu. Much more laidback, and considerably less expensive than the formal fine dining restaurant Operakällaren and the celebrity-obsessed nightclub Café Opera in the same building. Operabaren and Bakfickan specialise in traditional Swedish cuisine. The rustique "back pocket" Bakfickan is slightly cheaper, but does not allow reservations. Mains: Bakfickan 130-260SEK, Operabaren 150-300SEK.

- Peppar, Torsgatan 34 (T St Eriksplan), +46 8 34 20 52. Awesome Cajun and Creole food at decent prices. Some have argued that they make the best burger in the city. The place is especially known for having excessive decorations at all major holidays like Christmas and Halloween. They also make really good jalapeño bread.

- Byn Creperie & Ciderie, Rödabergsgatan 11A (T St Eriksplan). Galettes, crêpes, moules and cider in an authentic atmosphere with chansons on the stereo. Mains 89-169SEK.

- Döden i grytan, Norrtullsgatan 61 (T Odenplan) [51]. Like a neighbourhood Italian restaurant, but with great chefs that really know what they are doing. The winner of Dagens Nyheter's Gulddraken award 2006 in the medium-priced restaurant category. Mains 95-295SEK.

- Seikoen, Tegelbacken 2 (T T-Centralen) [52]. Classy sushi restaurant with a great view over the water and the old town. There are many cheaper sushi places in Stockholm, but it's worth the price to eat here instead. Mains 140-245SEK.

- Phi Phi Island, Birger Jarlsgatan 121 (T Tekniska Högskolan), +46 8 612 03 01. Authentic Thai restaurant with great food. The location is a little strange, but that's an opportunity to get off the beaten path and see the real Stockholm. Mains 110-195SEK.

- Lao Wai, Luntmakargatan 74 (T Rådmansgatan), +46 8 673 78 00 [53]. A vegan restaurant with spicy, tasty Chinese dishes, mainly from the genuine Sichuanese and Taiwanese cuisines. Authentic high quality ingredients, and excellent cooking that will appeal to non-vegetarians as well. Mains 125-185SEK. Lunch 80SEK.

Splurge
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- Café Opera and Operakällaren, Operahuset, Kungsträdgården (T Kungsträdgården) [54] [55]. Situated in the building of the Royal Opera, Café Opera has for long been the place if you want to be seen with celebrities. Offers good food and drinks. Dress code applies. In the same building you'll find a beautiful dining room of the formal and extremely expensive Operakällaren. If you want a less costly option, consider the other two restaurants at the Opera: Operabaren and Backfickan (see Mid-range above). Mains: Café Opera 195-325SEK, Operakällaren 210-450SEK.

- F12, Fredsgatan 12 (T T-Centralen), +46 8 24 80 52 [56]. Open M-F 11:30AM-2PM, 5-10:30PM, Sa 5-10:30 PM. The stylish F12 (short for the centrally located address) is regarded as one of the best fine dining experiences in Stockholm by most critics, including White Guide, the most ambitious Swedish restaurant guide. Mains 270-520SEK, 7-course tasting menus 1095SEK.

Drink
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- Anchor, Sveavägen 90 (T Rådmansgatan) [57]. A hard rock club open till 3AM. Happy hour before 10PM. Live acts or karaoke most nights.

- Berns Bar, Berzelii Park 9 (T Östermalmstorg or T Kungsträdgården) [58]. Berns Bar is one of the trendier hangouts in the city centre, with a nice lounge and several dancefloors.

- The White Room, Jakobsbergsgatan 29 (T Hötorget or T Östermalmstorg) [59], 08-545 076 65‎. One of the trendiest mainstream (house/techno/dance) clubs in Stockholm, and one of the few open until 5 AM (on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays). Expect extremely long queues, and rather expensive drinks.

- Jazzclub Fasching, Kungsgatan 63 (T T-Centralen) [60]. Stockholm's premier jazz club. Every Saturday, they are the hosts to the long-running club Soul [61] with old soul records that will put most people in a real partying mood (even if they didn't know that they liked old soul music).

- Inferno, Drottninggatan 85 (T Rådmansgatan) [62]. A recent addition to the Norrmalm bar scene, Inferno takes its name from a semi-autobiographical novel by one of Sweden's most famous authors, August Strindberg, who lived in the building from 1908 to his death in 1912. (Strindberg's apartment is now a small museum, open Tu-Su noon-4PM). The warm atmosphere, the ambitious drink list and the attentive service gave Inferno the Stockholm newspaper Dagens Nyheter's Gulddraken award for Best bar 2007.

- Musslan, Dalagatan 46 (T Odenplan), [63]. Open Tu-Th 6PM-1AM, F-Sa 6PM-2AM. The "back pocket" of seafood restaurant Wasahof next door, cozy and relaxed Musslan offers the same menu, a nice bar and DJs every night.

- Olssons Skor, Odengatan 41 (T Odenplan) [64]. Clean and relaxed. Room for spontaneous dancing.

- Riche, Birger Jarlsgatan 4 (T Östermalmstorg) [65]. Branding itself a "cosmopolitan bar", Riche is one of the most popular places with the media crowd. Two large bars, often with DJs.

- Skybar, Radisson SAS Royal Viking Hotel, 9th floor, Vasagatan 1 (T T-Centralen). Open M-Sa 5PM-1:30AM. Not the most elevated sky bar in the world, in any sense of the word, but if you want a panoramic view to go with your drink this is the only option in the Norrmalm area (although Gondolen's Bar on Södermalm probably has better drinks).

- Storstad, Odengatan 41 (T Odenplan) [66]. A rather large bar with a modern, minimalist interior, Storstad is a popular meeting point in the Vasastan district.

- Tranan, Karlbergsvägen 14 (T Odenplan), [67]. A good brasserie-style restaurant opened in 1929, with a dark downstairs bar that is popular Vasastan hangout, with a mixed crowd. Occasional live music.

- IceBar, Vasaplan 4 (in the Nordic Sea Hotel, T T-Centralen) [68]. The bar is made of ice. Entrance: 140SEK, including warm clothes and one drink. Additional drinks 85SEK. Note that you have to wait a long time before you can get in, because there are only 30 people allowed at a time.

- The Cadier Bar, S. Blasieholmshamnen 8 (in the Grand Hôtel, T Kungsträdgården) [69]. Located inside the Grand Hôtel, this is one of the more upscale places one can find in Stockholm. Recently refurbished it offers a modern yet classic atmosphere and really good drinks at that.

Sleep
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Budget
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- STF Vandrarhem af Chapman, Flaggmansvägen 8 (Bus 65 from T T-Centralen, or a short walk from T Kungsträdgården), , [70] — A full-rigged ship, known as Af Chapman for short, and an adjacent building, just 15 minutes walk from the central station. Advance booking suggested. You can specify whether you want to stay in the ship or on land, and it really is a spectacular place to stay.

- City Backpackers, Upplandsgatan 2A (T T-Centralen or T Hötorget), , [71] — Located close to the train station. Clean and friendly, with free wireless internet and computers. Plenty of common areas to meet fellow travellers in, including a great cafe at reception. Prices range from 230SEK to 280SEK for a dorm bed.

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- Rex Hotel, Luntmakargatan 73 (T Rådmansgatan), [72]. North of the city center, the Rex Hotel has a trendy designer feel to it, rooms have vintage photographs and gilt mirrors against concrete walls and the bathrooms are tiled in slate. Free internet is available and staff are extremely helpful, even posting out letters and offering advice if needed.

Splurge
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- Grand Hotel, Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8 (T Kungsträdgården), [73]. Considered to be one of the most luxurious hotels in Scandinavia and centrally located overlooking the Royal Palace. A bastion of elite hospitality, this is where the famous, infamous and traditional nobility stay, in fact room No 702 is the astounding Nobel Room, where the literature prize winners stay overnight. Its old world luxury and sense of style is well maintained in every room, with some in the Royal Gustavian style, others are intriguing traditional/modern mixes. The rooms are quite pricey but you get what you pay for in terms of service and comfort. The best rooms overlook the water, although these are highly sought after and invariably are booked out. The facilities include a fitness centre, several banquet halls, an upscale bar (the Cadier Bar), and a restaurant which gives an excellent Swedish Smörgåsbord, one of the very few establishments in Scandinavia that still does so. Even if you aren't staying here, its an experience to check out the piano bar, a delightful end-of-the-evening place to get a sophisticated drink.

- Nordic Light, Vasaplan 7 (T T-Centralen), [74]. Stepping into the Nordic Light hotel, you're given a lesson in modern Scandinavian design. Displaying a minimalist yet well equipped decor, this hotel is as chic as it gets. Each room features individual, specially designed light exhibits, which guests can adjust to suit their mood, and several have excellent views over the city centre. Light is showcased throughout the hotel in an ever-changing variety of shapes, colours and intensities. The hotel is located in the city centre of Stockholm right next to the best shopping, nightlife and the express-train to Arlanda airport.

- Sheraton Stockholm Hotel, Tegelbacken 6 (T T-Centralen) [75]. The Sheraton Stockholm Hotel is a five-star hotel located in the very heart of Stockholm’s central business district, shopping areas, and attractions - perfect for both business and leisure guests. The hotel offers stunning views of Lake Mälaren, City Hall, and Old Town, as well as the largest average room size in town.

Contact
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District Östermalm Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
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See
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- Kaknästornet, Mörka kroken 3, Ladugårdsgärdet (Bus 69 from Sergels Torg), +46 8 667 21 05. Open 10AM-9PM Sep-Apr, 9AM-10PM May-Aug. The 155-metre TV tower, east of central Stockholm, offers a different kind of panorama from its viewing gallery. Adults 35SEK, children 7-15 15SEK.

- Vasa Museum (Vasamuseet), Galärvarvsvägen 14 (tram from T-Centralen, bus 44 from T Karlaplan or the Djurgården ferry from Slussen or Nybroplan), +46 8-519 548 00 [1]. Open daily 8:30AM-6PM Jun-Aug, 10AM-5PM (W 10AM-8PM) Sep-May. The Vasa Museum features Vasa, an original warship from 1628 which sank just after being launched. Retrieved from the water in 1961, the ship is almost wholly preserved and is the only one of its kind and quality in the world. A must-see, especially since it is uncertain whether current methods of preservation will be able to maintain her condition in years to come. Adults 110SEK, Students 80SEK, children up to 17 free. There are adequate lifts to enable those less physically fit to see all levels of the ship.

- Skansen, main entrance from Djurgårdsvägen (tram from T-Centralen, bus 44 from T Karlaplan or the Djurgården ferry from Slussen or Nybroplan), +46 8 442 80 00 [2]. Open daily 10AM-8PM 1 May-20 Jun, 10AM-10PM 21 Jun-31 Aug, shorter hours the rest of the year, but always at least 10AM-3PM. The first open-air museum in the world, as well as a zoological garden specializing in Nordic fauna, such as moose, reindeer, bear, wolf, lynx and wolverine. Located on the island of Djurgården it features over 150 historic buildings from previous centuries. Hosts and hostesses in historic costumes further enhance this attraction, and domestic occupations such as weaving, spinning, and glass blowing are demonstrated. The Skansen area is fairly large (700 meters across) with steep slopes and limited public transportation, so be prepared for long walks. There is also an "aquarium" [3] (not included in the entrance fee) with tropical animals such as lemurs, monkeys, snakes, spiders, fish and Cuban Crocodiles. Adults 100 SEK Jun-Aug, lower other times of the year but with less animals. The aquarium: Adults 75 SEK.

- Museum of National Antiquities (Historiska Museet), Narvavägen 13-17 (T Karlaplan) [4]. Open daily 10AM-5PM May-Sep, Tu-Su 11AM-5PM and Th 11AM-8PM Oct-Apr. If you're interested in older Scandinavian history, from the Stone Age to the Vikings, you will want to visit the Museum of National Antiquities (its Swedish name means "the Museum of History"). In the Gold Room, you'll find gold treasures from the Bronze Age to the 16th century. (If you're really interested in all things Viking, you might also want to consider a boat trip to the Viking town of Birka, see "Get out" section below.)

- Nordiska Museet (Nordic Museum), Djurgårdsvägen 6-16 (On Djurgården, just after the Djurgården Bridge. Tram from T-Centralen or bus 44 from T Karlaplan), +46 8 519 546 00, [5]. Open daily 10AM-5PM Jun-Aug, M-F 10AM-4PM (W 10AM-8PM) and Sa-Su 11AM-5PM Sep-May. A museum of cultural history from 1520 to our days, celebrating its 100-year anniversary, in an impressive cathedral-like building on Djurgården. Exhibitions focus on Swedish handicraft, customs and traditions. Adult admission 60SEK.

- Swedish Museum of Natural History (Naturhistoriska riksmuseet), Frescativägen 40 (T Universitetet and then bus 40 or 540), [6]. Open Tu-W, F 10AM-7PM, Th 10AM-8PM, Sa-Su 11AM-7PM. The museum's collection is well-known around the globe and consists of animals, plants, fungi, minerals and fossils. The exhibits have been collected from the poles to the equator, and some were acquired during the voyages of James Cook. The museum is adjacent to Cosmonova, a large IMAX Dome cinema.

- Museum of Science and Technology (Tekniska Museet), Museivägen 7 (Bus 69 from T-Centralen/Sergels Torg), +46 8 450 56 00, [7]. Open daily 10AM-6PM, Wed 10AM-8PM. This large museum tells the tale of Sweden's strong engineering tradition. It is also suitable for small children, with the possibility to carry out your own experiments in the Teknorama section. Admission 160SEK Children 7-18, students 19+ 95SEK. Rebates for families and when using the Stockholm card.

- Östermalm is another gallery district, although the outlets here are a little further apart. Sturegatan and Karlavägen are two streets with several galleries, such as Lars Bohman Gallery (Karlavägen 16 and Sturegatan 36, [8]).

- Magasin 3 Stockholm Konsthall, Frihamnen (Bus 1 to Frihamnen or Bus 76 to Magasin 3), +46 8 545 680 40 [9]. Open Th noon-7PM, F-Su noon-5PM (closed during the summer). Founded in 1987 and located in a former warehouse in the old Freeport district, the large exhibition space of Magasin 3 houses major exhibitions by international artists, often presenting new works.

Do
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- Brunnsviken, the lake adjacent to Haga park just north of the inner city. There are several fine beaches, particularly on the eastern side (T Universitetet). Popular with students as it's just a short walk from the university's main campus.

- Djurgården plays their home games at Stockholms stadion, Lidingövägen/Vallhallavägen (T Stadion), a rather small redbrick stadium on Östermalm, built for the 1912 Stockholm Olympics. Djurgården has been the most successful team in Stockholm for the last couple of years, but has been struggling with form during 2008.

- DN-galan [10] is the leading track and field event in Sweden and a part of the IAAF World Athletic Tour, held annually in July in the beautiful Stockholm Olympic Stadium.

- DN-galan 2011, July 29. (Ticket sales start Dec 1.)

- Stockholm Open [11]. Stockholm Open is a tennis event on the ATP Tour, held in the Royal Tennis Hall in Östermalm in October, attracting many of the world's finest tennis players.

- Stockholm Open 2010, October 16-24.

- Gröna Lund, Lilla Allmänna Gränd 9 (Bus 44 or 47, the latter from Sergels Torg, or the Djurgården Ferry from Slussen or Nybroplan), +46 8 587 501 00, [12]. Open at least noon-11PM most days June-August, shorter hours in May and early September. Djurgården has Stockholm's only amusement park, with more or less standard attractions and games. The restaurants in the park are expensive and generally far from a culinary experience. Note that no rides are included in the entrance fee. Adults 80SEK (90SEK from mid June to mid August, 150SEK from 6PM on concert nights), ages 0-7 and over 65 for free. Rides 20-60SEK with single tickets, day pass 289SEK.

- Junibacken, Galärvarvsvägen (Bus 44, 47 or 69, the latter two from Sergels Torg), +46 8 587 230 00, [13]. Open Tue-Sun 10AM-5PM Jan-May, daily 10AM-5PM June, daily 9AM-6PM July, daily 9AM-18PM 1-15 Aug, daily 10AM-5PM 16-31 Aug, Tue-Sun 10AM-5PM September-December. Astrid Lindgren, author of Pippi Longstocking, Karlsson-on-the-Roof and numerous other children's books, is revered by almost all Swedes. Located on the island Djurgården, like many other child-friendly attractions, Junibacken could be described as an indoor theme-park dedicated to the world of her (and a few other Swedish authors') stories. There is also a restaurant. Admission (2010): 1 Sep-26 Dec, adults 125SEK, childrens 2-15 years of age 110SEK. 27 Dec-9 Jan 2011, adults 145SEK, childrens 2-15 years of age 125SEK.

Buy
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- Sturegallerian, main entrance: Stureplan (T Östermalmstorg) [14]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su 12AM-5PM. Opened in 1989, Sturegallerian is the most exclusive (and expensive) shopping center in central Stockholm, with stores carrying a good selection of exclusive brands. Also the home of the upmarket restaurants Sturehof and Tures and the nightclub Sturecompagniet.

- J Lindeberg, Grev Turegatan 9 (T Östermalmstorg) [15]. Straightforward, casual menswear.

- Hedengrens bokhandel, Sturegallerian (T Östermalmstorg), [16]. A sophisticated bookstore with books in Swedish, English and other languages. They focus more on arty books than bestsellers.

- Östermalms Saluhall, Östermalmstorg (T Östermalmstorg) [17]. A market hall in a beautiful 1880s redbrick building, with all kinds of expensive food.

- Kosherian Blecher & Co, Nybrogatan 19 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 663 65 80 [18]. Open M-Tu,Th 11AM-6PM, W 11AM-9:30PM, F 9AM-1hour before Shabbat (shorter opening hours during the summer). Kosherian is Stockholm's only Kosher food store. There are no kosher restaurants in Stockholm, but Kosherian offers catering and can prepare light meals.

- Svenskt Tenn, Strandvägen 5 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 617 16 00 [19]. Open M-F 10AM–6PM, Sa 10AM–3PM. Well known store for high-quality exclusive Swedish design. Very upmarket.

Eat
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Budget
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- Planet Food, inside Östermalmshallen, Östermalmstorg (T Östermalmstorg). Open during lunch hours. Although the deli market Östermalmshallen is rather upmarket and its restaurants generally on the expensive side, Planet Food is an exception, offering a decent selection of excellent and very fresh wraps for 55SEK. Salads and juices are also on the menu.

- Restaurang Sumlen, in the basement of Kungliga Biblioteket (the Royal Library) in the Humlegården park (T Östermalmstorg) [20]. Open M-F 9:30AM-4PM. In an area where sit-down lunches are expensive, Sumlen, catering to poor PhD students, offer simple but decent meals for 58SEK. Closed in July.

Mid-range
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- Örtagården, Nybrogatan 31 (T Östermalmstorg), +46 8 662 17 28. Lunch M-F 10:30AM-4PM, dinner M-F 4-9:30PM, Sa 11AM-11PM, Su 11AM-9PM. Located on the top floor of the Östermalmshallen food market, Örtagården serves a sumptuous vegetarian buffet with hot and cold vegetarian dishes at a decent price. There is also a "back pocket" serving meat dishes. Vegetarian weekday buffet lunch 85SEK, vegetarian weekday dinner and weekend buffet 135SEK.

- Blå Porten, Djurgårdsvägen 64, +46 8 663 87 59. Open M-F 11AM-PM, Sa-Su 11AM-7PM. Most of the mid-range options in the tourist-dense Djurgården offer a simple, overpriced and uninspiring fare. Blå porten, hidden in the back yard of Liljevalchs konsthall, is the one exception. Delicious food in a lush garden makes the long queues worth it. The excellent cakes and pies also makes this a good choice for a coffee break.

Splurge
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- Esperanto, Kungstensgatan 2 (T Tekniska Högskolan), +46 8 696 23 23 [21]. Open Tu-Sa 6PM-1AM (closed July and early August). Just a notch below F12 on the White Guide ranking, Esperanto offers innovative tasting menus featuring many examples of advanced cooking. Some of the best value for money in the top class niche. Tasting menus 745 or 1075SEK.

Drink
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- The student unions at Kungliga Tekniska Högskolan (T Tekniska Högskolan) and Stockholm University (T Universitetet) hold pubs on weeknights at various campus locations. If you can read Swedish, you'll find a list at Fester.nu [22].

- Sturehof, Stureplan 2 (T Östermalmstorg) [23]. Located close to Riche, with the same owners and much the same well-to-do clientele, Sturehof's prominent location right on Stureplan draws a slightly more mixed and relaxed crowd than many of its neighbours in Stockholm's glitzy nightlife area. The restaurant has good quality food, albeit on the expensive side. The music bar O-baren is well-known for its DJ sets.

- Brasserie Godot, Grev Turegatan 36 (T Östermalmstorg) [24]. If you fancy long drinks with a cool crowd this is the place for you. Ask for an Old-Fashioned, Godot Crush or a Bloody Mary.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Backpacker's Inn, Banérgatan 56 (T Karlaplan), (info@backpackersinn.se), [25]. Actually a school, more or less converted into a youth hostel in summer. It is large (320 beds) and really centrally located, close to the subway (200m), and within walking distance to downtown. There is a shopping mall and several supermarkets nearby. The showers are in a separate building (since the only ones available are those at the gym hall), and the sleeping rooms (14 beds) are classrooms. Breakfast (decently priced) and internet (expensive, go to an internet cafe instead!) are available. If you need a cheap place to stay and want to meet a lot of people, this is for you. 135SEK in the dorm for STF members [26] and 180SEK for non-members. However, one should be careful about his luggage, as recently a student from India was a victim of laptop and mobile theft.

Mid-range
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- Hotel Stureplan, Birger Jarlsgatan 24, (T Östermalmstorg) [27]. Central, therefore relatively pricey at around 1000SEK per night. Comfortable, well designed rooms and the location is ideal for shopping and sight-seeing. There are "classic" rooms kitted out in 19th century style, and minimalist "loft" and "cabin" rooms.

Splurge
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- Scandic Anglais Hotel, Humlegårdsgatan 23 (T Östermalmstorg), [28]. Trendy boutique hotel encased in a glass extrerior. In an excellent location, combining the peace of the park, with the entertainment of the city centre. Rooms are small but functional, and the hotel contains one of the most hip bars in Stockholm, always popular and only steps away from your room. The breakfast buffet conveniently lasts until 2PM, perfect for those wanting to sleep in, and is generous and excellent, making it a great start to the day. Guests are able to rent bikes from reception, and considering its ideal location, its a great way to explore the city at your leisure.

Contact
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District Gamla Stan Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Cafes

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
toc

See
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- The Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet) [1]. Built between 1697 and 1754 and located on the east side of the Old Town, the Royal Palace is the official residence of the king of Sweden, though the royal family does not actually live there and only uses it for official ceremonies. It is open to the public unless being used for a state ceremony. Tickets to The Royal Apartments, the Tre Kronor Museum, the Treasury, and Gustav III's Museum of Antiquities cost 100SEK each, with the sumptuous Apartments being the main draw. If Royal regalia is your thing, you'll probably want to pay 140SEK for a combination ticket and visit the Treasury as well. Open 10AM-4PM daily in the summer, noon-4PM (and closed Mondays) in the winter.

- The Stockholm Cathedral (Storkyrkan), Trångsund 1 (next to the Royal Castle, T Gamla Stan), +46 8 723 30 16, [2]. Open daily 9AM-6PM 21 May-29 Sep, 9AM-4PM rest of year. Guided tours every Thursday at 11, free entry. Storkyrkan is the oldest church in Gamla Stan. Originating as a 13th century Gothic structure, the exterior was remodelled in Baroque style around 1740. The church is the seat of the Church of Sweden bishop of Stockholm. It contains two pieces of famous artwork: the 15th century wooden statue of Saint George and a copy of the oldest known image of Stockholm, Vädersolstavlan ("The Sun Dog Painting"), a 1636 copy of a lost original from 1535. Entrance 40SEK except for visitors to services 21 May-29 Sep, free entry rest of year.

- Riddarholmen Church (Riddarholmskyrkan), Riddarholmen (T Gamla Stan), +46 8 590 350 09, [3]. Open daily 10AM-5PM Jun-Aug, 10AM-4PM 15 May-31 May and 1 Sep-14 Sep. Riddarholmskyrkan is one of Stockholm's most beautiful churches, and the only remaining medieval abbey. The structure dates back to the late 14th century. In the church, many Swedish regents are buried, including Gustavus Adolphus (Gustav II Adolf) and Charles XII (Karl XII). Adults 30SEK, children 7-18 10SEK.

- German Church (Tyska Kyrkan), Svartmangatan 16A (T Gamla Stan), +46 8 411 11 88. Open Tu-F 9:30-11:30AM, Sa-Su noon-4PM. Officially named Sankta Gertrud, this Gamla Stan church is the home of the first German-speaking parish outside Germany, giving some clue to the importance of German merchants in the history of Stockholm. On the site of the church, a German merchants' guild was founded in the 14th century. In the 16th century, the headquarters was converted into a church, which was later expanded. The interior is baroque in style, with large windows and white vaults. The church belongs to the Church of Sweden but holds services in German at 11AM every Sunday.

- Nobel Museum (Nobelmuseet), Stortorget (T Gamla Stan), [4]. Open Tu 11AM-8PM, W-Su 11AM-5PM 17 Sep-20 May, and 10AM-5PM (Tu 10AM-8PM) 21 May-16 Sep. Located in the old Stock Exchange house in the middle of Gamla Stan, this museum has lots of material on the Nobel Prize, including videotaped speeches by laureates. Admission 60SEK (students 40SEK, children 7-18 20SEK).

Do
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- Storkyrkobadet, Svartmangatan 20-22 (T Gamla Stan), +46 8 20 90 27 [5]. Open for men Tue, Fri, Sun 5-8.30PM, for women Mon, Thu 5-8.30PM (closed during summer). A small secret hidden in what once was a wine cellar in the old town, where you can take a bath under 18th century vaults. Note that men and women cannot visit the bath together. Adults 40SEK, includes entrance to pool and sauna. Students and seniors 30SEK.

Buy
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- Gamla Stan (the old town) has plenty of small stores selling souvenirs, art, handicraft and other items mainly geared towards tourists. Although there are a number of tourist traps with tacky, grossly overpriced merchandise, especially on Västerlånggatan, you can also find nice and interesting stuff. If you want a calmer experience, try Österlånggatan or any of the other streets. From late November, Stockholm's most well-known Christmas market takes place at Stortorget (open daily 11AM-6PM) [6].

- Sweden Bookshop, Slottsbacken 10 (T Gamla Stan or T Kungsträdgården), +46 8 453 78 00, [7]. Open M-F 10AM-6PM, Sa (Jul-Aug) 11AM-4PM. Whether you’re looking for a Swedish cookbook, a glossy coffee-table book on Swedish design or Swedish fiction in English translation, this is the place to go. Part of the Swedish Institute, Sweden Bookshop is a specialized bookstore that supplies a broad selection of information about Sweden and Swedish literature in English and other languages.

- Science Fiction Bokhandeln, Västerlånggatan 48 (T Gamla Stan) [8]. A bookshop selling science fiction, fantasy, horror, manga/anime, role-playing games, and some popular science; a lot of it is in English.

- Castor, Österlånggatan 27 (T Gamla stan).

Eat
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Evening restaurant dining in Gamla Stan is quite expensive - expect to pay around 120SEK for a starter and 250SEK for a main course. Check the evening menu price rather than the boards outside - the prices displayed outside are often lunch offers only. In winter months restaurant kitchens seem to close at around 9.30PM, so dine early!

Cafes
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- Chokladkoppen & Kaffekoppen, Stortorget 18-20 (T Gamla Stan), Kaffekoppen and Chokladkoppen (literally, the Coffee Cup and the Chocolate Cup) are two LGTB-friendly sister cafes situated on the Stortorget in Gamla Stan, just off the touristy Västerlånggatan. If one is full you can just walk over to the other one. The interior in both of them is small but cosy, probably not for the claustrophobic! Gigantic sandwhiches if you're hungry, and if you're looking for something sweet try their chocolate cake!

- Chocolates Caffe House, Österlånggatan 31, S-111 31 Stockholm. An amazing little chocolate shop where milkshakes (with 3 scoops of ice cream, a chunk of chocolate) go for 70 SEK, and 50ish SEK for four scoops of ice cream. You can also freely take the handmade chocolates by the cash register, and the owner is very friendly.

Budget
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Mid-range
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Splurge
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- Leijontornet, Lilla Nygatan 5 (T Gamla Stan), +46 8 506 400 80, [9]. Open M-F 11:30AM-2PM, 6-10PM, Sa 6-10PM. With the foundations of a city wall tower behind glass in the cellar dining room, Leijontornet is about exclusive food with a traditionalist slant in an exclusive historical environment. The street-level bar next door is a surprisingly vivid place with cheaper dishes from the kitchen. Three-course dinner 745SEK. Mains in Leijonbaren 115-210SEK.

- Den Gyldene Freden, Österlånggatan 51 (T Gamla Stan), +46 8 24 97 60 [10]. Open M-F 5-11PM, Sa 1-11PM (closed M in July and early August). The members of the Swedish Academy eat here every Thursday. Old traditions (traced back to 1722) in the old town. The reputation allows "The Golden Peace" to charge high prices. Mains 165-335SEK, three-course menus 565-675SEK.

Drink
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Drinking in Gamla Stan itself is quite expensive - expect to pay around 60SEK for a 500ml lager in a cheap pub, rising to 95SEK for a microbrew beer in a nice pub. If you like to drink a lot it's worth heading further afield and avoiding the tourist bars.

- 6:e Tunnan, Stora Nygatan 43, Gamla stan (T Gamla stan). Bar open until 3AM. Medieval bar and restaurant, with medieval food and mead, and a small rock bar at street level. Shows almost every night.

- O'Connell's - Irish Pub, Stora Nygatan 21 (T Gamla Stan), Open everyday 12 PM-1 AM. This comfortable and cozy Irish pub serves excellent pub food and has live music most nights of the week. Be sure to check out the 400-year old cellar bar.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Archipelago Hostel Old Town, Stora Nygatan 38, , [11] (info@archipelagohostel.se). Central location.

- Best Hostel, Skeppsbron 22, [12]. Located in the city centre on Gamla Stan, the hostel is nice enough but not the kind of place where people hang out and talk to each other. The bars and restaurants nearby are quite expensive, so you will probably want to quickly locate the supermarket in the basement of Galleria Slussen at Katarinavägen 1 about 700 metres away. If you can manage a longer walk there is a much nicer supermarket called Hemköp at Mäster Samuelsgatan 59, around 2km away.

Mid-range
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Splurge
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Contact
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District Södermalm Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Cafes

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
toc

See
toc

- Katarina kyrka, Högbergsgatan 13, +46 8 743 68 00 [1]. Open to the public M-F 11AM-5PM, Sa-Su 10AM-5PM. Katarina kyrka ("Church of Catherine"), named after Princess Catherine, mother of King Charles X of Sweden, can be seen from many parts of central Stockholm from its location on a Södermalm hill. The church was built 1656–1695 and has been rebuilt twice after being destroyed by fires. After the first fire in 1723, the church was given a larger, octagonal tower. Following a new fire in May 1990 which left almost nothing but the external walls, the church was faithfully reconstructed and reopened in 1995. Several notable Swedes are buried in the cemetery. The most well-known is former Foreign Minister Anna Lindh, who was assassinated in 2003.

- The northern parts of Södermalm offer some excellent viewpoints with panoramas of the central parts of the city:

- Walking eastwards from Slussen up Katarinavägen you will reach the picturesque street Fjällgatan, with a view of Gamla Stan from the east.

- Monteliusvägen, a walking path that you reach from Bastugatan (north of T Mariatorget) offers a similar view from the west. Benches and tables offer picnic possibilities.

- Skinnarviksberget, a hill further west, close to the Zinkensdamm subway station, is a good option if you prefer cliffs to streets. When exiting the station turn back and head to the north. Walk up a small street to the right and climb the hill. Look for the "Kattenvägen" sign.

- Transport Museum (Spårvägsmuseet), Tegelviksgatan 22 (Bus 2 from Slussen) [2]. Open M-F 10AM-5PM, Sa-Su 11AM-4PM. Maybe not for everyone, but still entertaining, Spårvägsmuseet is a museum of Stockholm's public transportation. Walking through historical buses and subway cars is quite fun but not enough text is in English. Admission 30SEK (15SEK reduced price).

- Between Slussen and Mariatorget, the Hornsgatan street has a narrow sett-paved side section on the north side, above the main street, nicknamed "Hornsgatspuckeln" ("the Hornsgatan bump") [3], with a lot of galleries. Some examples are the ceramics and glassware gallery blås & knåda (Hornsgatan 26, +46 8 642 77 67, [4]) Konsthantverkarna (Sodermalms torg 4, +46 8 611 03 70, [5]) and Grafiska Sällskapet ("The Swedish Printmakers' Association", Hornsgatan 6, +46 8 643 88 04, [6]).

Do
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- The island Långholmen (T Hornstull) has several good spots for swimming, including a small sandy beach.

- Eriksdalsbadet, Hammarby Slussväg 20 (T Skanstull), +46 8 508 40 258 [7]. Offers both indoor and outdoor Olympic-size swimming pools.

- Hammarby plays their bandy home games at Zinkensdamms IP, Ringvägen 16 (T Zinkensdamm), on Södermalm.

- Midnattsloppet [8] is a 10 km night-time running event held annually in mid-August on the strets of Södermalm. There is plenty of live music and other entertainment along the course, creating a party vibe that draws huge numbers of spectators.

- Midnattsloppet 2011, Aug 13.

- Victoria, Götgatan 67 (T Medborgarplatsen). Situated on the lively Götgatan street, this beautiful 1930s theatre screens a broad variety of hollywood blockbusters as well as old classic movies ranging from the birth of cinema and onwards.

- Rio, Hornstulls strand 3 (T Hornstull). Amidst the bars of the Hornstull district, this charming independent theatre, neighbouring the LGBT-friendly café Copacabana, arranges screenings of movies of all sorts - from 3D-features to festivals of low-budget shorts.

Buy
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- Götgatsbacken, the northernmost section of Götgatan on Södermalm, is perhaps best known for its nightlife, but also has lots of clothes stores with different profiles, including a new, small shopping centre called Bruno.

- The SoFo district [9], the cleverly rebranded area south of eastern Södermalm's Folkungagatan, has lots of designer clothes and design shops, as well as cafés and restaurants.

- Ringen, Ringvägen 100 (T Skanstull), [10]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 12AM-5PM. Fashion, home decor, restaurants and more.

- Skrapan, Götgatan 78 (T Skanstull/T Medborgarplatsen) [11]. A rather small shopping centre, opened in 2007, with a number of fashion stores and a rather diverse collection of other shops, in part geared towards the students living in the skyscraper on top.

- Bruno, Götgatan 36 (T Slussen). A very small indoor shopping centre with a handful of fashion stores focusing on street wear.

- Sneakersnstuff, Åsögatan 124, +46 8 743 03 22, [12]. Open M-F 11AM-6:30PM, Sa 11AM-5PM, Su 12AM-4PM. Passionate about sneakers, this store has a huge assortment of contemporary and classic designs, including limited-range models.

- Boutique Sportif, Kocksgatan 60 A (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 411 12 13, [13]. Open M-F 11:30AM-6:30PM, Sa 11AM-5PM. Somewhat odd shop with a large number of very hip and rather expensive street wear brands.

- Sivletto, Malmgårdsvägen 16-18 (T Skanstull), +46 8 643 39 72[14]. Open Tu-Th noon-7PM, F noon-6PM, Sa noon-4PM. Going through a rather anonymous door on a silent back street, down a spiral staircase leading down into a dimly lit cellar, it is hard to believe you're on the right track. But when you step down, you will find yourself in the midst of a fascinating celebration of American 1950’s culture. Retro and vintage clothes, but also a lot of other stuff from the era, as well as a hairdresser and a café. Well worth a visit just for a look around.

- Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Bondegatan 46 B (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 642 80 55 [15]. Traditional tailoring, modern designs, mostly in black and white.

- Nakkna, Tjärhovsgatan 3 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 615 29 50 [16]. Sophisticated young fashion in low-key colors.

- Lisa Larsson, Bondegatan 48, second hand store.

- Beyond Retro, Åsögatan 144, second hand store.

- Stockholm Stadsmission, Skånegatan 75, second hand store.

- Emmaus, Götgatan 14, second hand store.

- Myrorna, Götgatan 79, second hand store.

- Judiths, Hornsgatan 75, second hand store.

- La Principessa, Rosenlundsgatan 1, second hand store.

- Pet Sounds Records, Skånegatan 53 (T Medborgarplatsen) [17]. A record store with independent pop, alternative rock and other genres of music with more cred than chart placements. A real institution among Stockholm's music fans.

- Multi Kulti, S:t Paulsgatan 3 (T Slussen), +46 8 643 61 29 [18]. A small but well-stocked music store specialising in the genres popularly called "world music", with welcoming and knowledgeable staff.

- Tio gruppen/Ten Swedish designers, Götgatan 25 (T Slussen) [19].

- Bolagret, Inside "Ringen", Götgatan 98 (T Skanstull), [20].

- Coctail, Skånegatan 71 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 642 07 40, and Cocktail Deluxe, Bondegatan 34 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 642 07 41 [21]. Open M-F 11AM-6PM, Sa 11AM-4PM, Su (generally) noon-4PM. Two rather eccentric sister stores with a collection of colourful household items and other stuff. Good for small gifts.

Eat
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Cafes
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- Muggen, Götgatan 24 (T Slussen). A mainstream café with modern design in a central Södermalm location.

- Cafe Rival, Mariatorget 3 (T Mariatorget). A nice café, which like the hotel next door is owned by Benny Andersson of ABBA fame. (You won't find any traces of ABBA in the place, though.)

- Skåningen Kaffebar, Skånegatan 12 (T Medborgarplatsen). Very good coffee with excellent personal service. Small outdoor service where you can smoke.

- Cafe Helgalundens Korta Varor, Grindsgatan 35 (T Skanstull). Extraordinarily good coffee and sandwiches. Not to mention the service. They also carry a good selection of Swedish indie music, some truly hard-to-find DVD's and a few freshly printed T-shirts. All of it is sold at very affordable prices.

- Fåfängan - Café and Restaurant at the top of Klockstapelsbacken (Buses from T Slussen to Londonviadukten) [22]. A café close to the eastern tip of Södermalm with a good view of the city. Music some days during lunchtime.

- Copacabana, Hornstulls strand 3 (T Hornstull), +46 8 669 29 39. Open M-Th 10AM-9PM, F-Su 10AM-7PM. Copacabana calls itself a queer feminist café and draws a LGBT crowd from all over the city, as well as locals both gay and straight. Friendly atmosphere and afternoon sun on a few outdoor tables.

- Vurma, Bergsunds strand 31 (T Hornstull) [23]. Also on Kungsholmen and in Vasastan.

- Café Puck, Hornsgatan 32 (T Slussen or Mariatorget) [24].

- String, Nytorgsgatan 38 (T Medborgarplatsen or Skanstull) [25]. WiFi access.

Budget
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- Folkets kebab, Hornsgatan 92 (T Zinkensdamm), and Folkungagatan 62 (T Medborgarplatsen), both on Södermalm. Very nice kebab shops. The buffet at Medborgarplatsen (open 11AM-7PM) is great, 69 SEK.

- Creperie fyra knop, Svartensgatan 4 (T Slussen), +46 8 640 77 27. Open 5-11PM. Authentic French-speaking crêpes/galettes place. The place is often crowded and the service can be very French, in all senses of the word, but the food is excellent. Booking recommended. Mains 70-92SEK.

- Nystekt Strömming, Södermalmstorg (T Slussen). Typical Swedish food! Fried herring in all variants, e.g. with mashed potato. Just a small stand, a few metres outside the northern exit of the Slussen subway station. Very good and quite famous! Open 11AM-6PM in the summer, 11AM-3PM in winter.

- Health Bar & Café, Repslagargatan 16 (T Slussen). This small and rather anonymous restaurant serves surprisingly good budget Asian food, with a healthy profile. No alcoholic beverages. Closes at 7PM.

- Galleria Slussen, Katarinavägen 1 (T Slussen). Just across the bridge from Gamla Stan, has several cheap dining options, though the only one open late is McDonalds.

Mid-range
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- Pelikan, Blekingegatan 40 (T Skanstull), +46 8 556 090 90 (Reservations +46 8 556 090 92). (See also the "drink" section). Offers a small selection of Swedish dishes (including the famous Köttbullar (meatballs)). The selection changes according to the season. The food is excellent and very good value for the money.

- Svejk, Östgötagatan 35 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 641 33 66 [26]. On the cheap end of mid-range, this friendly, cozy and unpretentious Czech restaurant serves Central European fare and a wide selection of Czech beer. Great value for money.

- Roxy, Nytorget 6. (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 6409655 [27]. Open Tu-Th 5-12PM, F-Sa 5PM-1AM, Su 5-12PM. The place where Stockholm’s gays and lesbians go out to eat or just hang out in the bar. Straight-friendly and with good food.

- Ho's, Hornsgatan 151 (T Hornstull), +46 8 844420. Open Tu-Th 4-11:30PM, F 4-11PM, Sa 2:30-11PM, Su 2:30-10:30PM. While Stockholm has a fair number of cheap Chinese restaurants, most serve a rather bland and watered-down version of the most popular "westified" staple dishes. While the competition is not all that fierce, Ho's stand out as a quality choice, with a wide selection of dishes with more spice and taste.

- Koh Phangan, Skånegatan 57 (T Medborgarplatsen) [28]. Authentic Thai restaurant with great food. Booking recommended.

- Hermans, Fjällgatan 23 (T Slussen), +46 8 643 94 80 [29]. Sumptuous weekend vegetarian buffet (theme changes weekly) followed by delicious coffees, teas, and desserts (140-190SEK depending on beverage/dessert choice). The view over Stockholm is amazing, go there at sunset and sit on the back terrace. They sometimes have live entertainment.

- Nem nem qúan, Åsögatan 90 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 641 94 47. Excellent and decently authentic vietnamese food. Cheap lunch offers. Booking recommended.

Splurge
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- Gondolen, Stadsgården 6 (T Slussen), +46 8 641 70 90, [30]. Gondolen is a fancy and expensive restaurant run by the famous chef Erik Lallerstedt, in the peculiar 1930s elevator building Katarinahissen. There is an inexpensive branch named Köket in the same premises where you can eat the best of Swedish cuisine for considerably less than in the main dining room, although you'll miss out on the fabulous view of the city. Dress code may apply! Mains in main dining room 185-300SEK, tasting menu 650SEK.

Drink
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- Carmen, Tjärhovsgatan 14 (T Medborgarplatsen). Cheap beer and a lot of broke hipsters at this Södermalm bar.

- Gröne Jägaren, Götgatan 64 (T Medborgarplatsen). Cheap beer since 1692 and karaoke. There are several other places in the hood and you will probably find a seat.

- Kelly's, Folkungagatan 49 (T Medborgarplatsen). Cheap beer, cider and shots for as little as 24 SEK each. Minimum age of 23 to enter. Hard rock music and poor acoustics. You will blend in well if you wear black leather and tattoos.

- Söderkällaren, Tjärhovsgatan 12 (T Medborgarplatsen). Cheap beer and reggae music

- Oliver Twist, Repslagargatan 6 (T Slussen). Warm and cozy English-style pub offering good food, real ale, and other beers from around the world.

- Akkurat, Hornsgatan 2 (T Slussen). Friendly English-style pub offering good food, real ale, plenty of beers from all over the world as well as 450 different whiskies. A place where younger and older drinkers meet.

- Bishop's Arms. Warm and cozy English-style pubs offering good food, real ale and other beers from around the world. Live jazz music Wednesday evenings. Although this chain runs 25 pubs in Sweden, they all have a pleasant atmosphere, notable for the absence of loud music.

- Bellmansgatan 10 (T Mariatorget)

- Folkungagatan 105 (T Medborgarplatsen)

- Pelikan, Blekingegatan 40 (T Skanstull), +46 8 556 090 90 (Reservations +46 8 556 090 92). An old style working-class beer hall with a very authentic feeling, for those traditionalists who think Kvarnen has sold out in recent years. High noise level but quite a friendly crowd. Also offers simple and authentic Swedish food at a reasonable price.

- Kvarnen, Tjärhovsgatan 4 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 643 03 80. A Stockholm beer hall with old traditions. Popular with fans of the Southside football club Hammarby IF. In recent years this place has expanded, adding more modern, trendy bars in adjoining rooms. Has a wide selection of beers and food at decent prices.

- Indigo, Götgatan 19 (T Slussen), +46 8 643 58 59. A really small bar with an eclectic color scheme, usually drawing a rather young crowd. Situated in the centre of Södermalm, this is a good place to start the evening.

- Scandic Malmen (T Medborgarplatsen). A hotel bar with several rooms, good for large groups.

- Södra Teatern Bar, Mosebacke Torg 1-3 (T Slussen). Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, this very relaxed and stylish bar offers a marvellous view of Stockholm from its lounge. Be sure to come before 11PM to get seats offering the best view.

- Mosebacke Etablissement, Mosebacke Torg 3 (T Slussen), +46 8 556 098 90. In the same building as the Södra Teatern theatre and bar, this is a laid-back restaurant, bar and music venue. In the summer, its large beer garden with a panoramic view is extremely popular with Stockholmers and tourists alike. Indoors, you will find lots of clubs and live music in a wealth of genres, including brunches with live jazz on weekends 10:30AM-3PM.

- Och himlen därtill, Götgatan 78 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 660 60 68, [31]. Open M-Th 6PM-1AM, F-Sa 6PM-3AM. Once upon a time, the landmark skyscraper on Götgatan housed the offices of the Swedish Tax Agency. After major renovations, the building reopened in 2008, transformed into the unlikely combination of a small shopping mall, student apartments and, on the 25th and 26th floors, an exclusive-looking sky bar and restaurant offering visitors one of the most spectacular panoramas over the city. Enter from inside the Skrapan shopping center.

- Sjögräs bar, Timmermansgatan 24 (T Mariatorget). Next door to a decent, if a bit expensive, restaurant by the name 'Sjögräs' (Seaweed), specialising in Caribbean fare, this small bar offers a wide selection of rum brands. The standard European beers are still the most popular choices for the young and rather trendy clientele, however.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Acco Hostel, Ansgariegatan 10, , [32] (acco.hostel@gmail.com). Free bed linen and towels, free access to computers with Internet connection in the lobby, free WiFi access in all rooms, free access to washing machine and dryer, free tea and coffee, free luggage storage room, 24/7 security observation.

- Skanstulls vandrarhem, Ringvägen 135 (T Skanstull), (kontakt@skanstulls.se) [33]. You don't require a STF card at Skanstulls vandrarhem but the prices are still cheap and the standard is higher than the STF hostels. And compared to the STF hostels, this is more flexible. Skanstulls hostel opened in May 2007 and is a clean and central hostel. Very close to popular SoFo with many bars, restaurants and shopping. Book in advance since it is almost always fully booked.

- Långholmen, Långholmsmuren 20 (T Hornstull), (vandrarhem@langholmen.com) [34]. Spectacular hostel built in an old prison where you actually stay in the old cells (making them limited to the size). The place is clean and the staff is nice and friendly. The prices are fair and the atmosphere is really one of a kind. It is also a hotel and the breakfast buffet holds top-standard and is worth its 75SEK cost. They have a guest kitchen, internet terminals, washing machine/dryer, and there are a lot of green areas and bathing opportunities around. Subway stop is about 7 minutes by walk.

- Zinkensdamm, Zinkens väg 20 (T Zinkensdamm), , [35]. Very nice and fairly big youth hostel and hotel. It is very clean, the staff is helpful and friendly and the prices are fair, however the rooms are rather small. Features a fairly big guest kitchen, a nice garden, Internet terminals, and laundry machine/dryer.

- Gustaf af Klint, Stadsgårdens Kajplatser 153 (Slussen), [36].

Mid-range
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- Clarion Hotel Stockholm, Ringvägen 98 (T Skanstull) [37]. Ideal location, with lots of restaurants, a walkway along the water, and a laid-back vibe all just outside the hotel's door. Huge hotel with over 500 rooms, but the friendly staff ensure that guests feel welcomed, and there's personalized touches to be had, such as automatic checkout via email and free internet.

Splurge
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- Hilton Slussen, Guldgränd 8 (T Slussen) [38]. International business hotel located on Södermalm with an excellent view of the Old Town and the City Hall. Sleek and modern hotel, with professional, English speaking staff. Breakfast is delightful, and well worth the cost with a tremendous amount of choice from fresh fruit, to cereals, fresh waffles, pancakes, pastries & cooked breakfast. Be sure to check out the interesting wood work displayed all around the hotel, various wood types are entwined with interesting room features.

- Hotel Rival, Mariatorget 3 (T Mariatorget) [39]. Owned by a former member of ABBA, Benny Andersson, who has restored a 1930's Art Deco red velvet cinema into a hip, elegant, and comfortable hotel. Personable staff abound, and patrons enjoy tasteful decor and bright, albeit small rooms with comfortable beds and good linens. Lobby and restaurant are trendy without being overbearing and the hotel faces a very charming city square with garden and fountain.

Contact
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District Kungsholmen Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Cafes

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
toc

See
toc

- The Stockholm City Hall (Stadshuset), Hantverkargatan 1 (T T-Centralen) [1]. The city hall, where the Nobel Prize Banquet takes place every year, is an imposing brick building in the city centre. Guided tours are held daily, and allow you to see the impressive halls used for the Nobel festivities, the Blue Hall and the Golden Hall. The tower offers a great view of the Old Town and can be climbed (optionally, a lift can take you half the way). To avoid congestion and crowding, you have to get tickets in advance.

Do
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- The largest beach in inner-city Stockholm is the child-friendly Smedsuddsbadet (T Fridhemsplan), next to the Rålambshovsparken Park.

- Fredhällsbadet (T Kristineberg) is a rocky beach on western Kungsholmen.

Buy
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- Västermalmsgallerian, Sankt Eriksgatan 45 (T Fridhemsplan) [2]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM. Opened in 2002, Västermalmsgallerian on Kungsholmen is good-looking but relatively small.

- Vilse i Garderoben, Hantverkargatan 59, second hand store.

Eat
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Cafes
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- Cafe Fix, Sankt Eriksgatan 35. Stockholm's oldest coffee shop. 25SEK for coffee, 5SEK for refill. Nice food.

Budget
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Mid-range
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- Mäster Anders, Pipersgatan 1 (T-Rådhuset), +46 8 654 20 01. French and Swedish cuisine with an emphasis on grilled meats. Mains 145-295SEK.

- Kungsholmen, Norr Mälarstrand, kajplats 464 (T Rådhuset). Maybe on the expensive side of what constitutes mid-range, but this refined food court concept in a beautiful Kungsholmen quay location offers large portions of really tasty food in a variety of styles. Mains 175-260SEK.

Splurge
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- Lux, Primusgatan 116 (Lilla Essingen, bus 1), +46 8 619 01 90 [3]. Open Tu-Fr 11:30AM-2PM, 5-11PM, Sa 5-11PM. In a waterside location on one of Stockholm’s smaller islands, Lux offers both a relaxed atmosphere and some very good modern cooking. Mains 315-345SEK, tasting menu 940SEK.

Drink
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- Dovas, S:t Eriksgatan 53 A. Cheap beer, 30SEK for a 500ml bottle of Norrlands Guld or another local ale. There is a nightclub opposite which most of the young locals seem to disappear into when this place closes.

- Theodoras, S:t Eriksgatan 53 B. Located about 10 metres further down the street, with the same owner, it is basically a quieter copy of its brother, Dovas.

- Nivå 22, Fridhemsgatan 17. Very popular place in Stockholm, particularly in winter time as the upper deck is considered outside, and smoking is allowed.

- Trädgården (The Garden), Fleminggatan 2-4 (T Rådhuset) [4]. A popular summer club, probably owing much to the fact that half of the club (including one dance floor) is situated outdoors, since Swedes love to spend as much of their brief summers as possible outdoors.

Sleep
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Budget
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- STF Fridhemsplan, Sankt Eriksgatan 20, [5] (info@fridhemsplan.se). One of the largest and most modern hostels in Stockholm. Doubles from 625 SEK.

Mid-range
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- Connect Hotel City, Ahlströmergatan 41, [6]. The cheapest rooms are very small and windowless. From around 1,000 SEK for a double.

- Marriott Kungsholmen, Ralambshovsleden 50 (T: Thorildsplan), +46 8 4413100 (fax: +46 8 4413199), [7]. Rooms with internet, aircon, coffee maker, ironing board, fridge and safe. The hotel has a fitness centre and a restaurant with local and international cuisine. Expensive parking at 295 SEK. Around 1,200 SEK for a double.

- First Hotel Amaranten, Kungsholmsgatan 31 (T: Rådhuset), +46 8 6925280 (amaranten@firsthotels.se, fax: +46 8 6504050), [8]. Rooms with internet. Around 1,300 SEK for a double.

- Aldoria, [9].

Splurge
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Contact
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District Northern and Western Suburbs Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
toc

See
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- Bromma kyrka, Gliavägen 100 (Bus 117 from T Brommaplan) +46 8 37 34 48, [1]. Bromma kyrka, in the western suburbs, is one of the oldest in Stockholm. It has also been voted the city's most beautiful. The oldest part was built as a round church in the second half of the 12th century. The church contains medieval paintings from the late 15th century.

- Tensta konsthall, Taxingegränd 10 (T Tensta), +46 8 36 07 63, [2]. Open Tu-Su noon-5PM (closed for much of the summer). Tensta Konsthall, an exhibition hall in the multicultural western suburb of Tensta, opened in 1998 and has been met with much interest from critics for its contemporary art exhibitions.

Do
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- AIK plays their home games at the large Råsunda stadium, Solnavägen 51 (T Solna Centrum), a national football stadium in the north-western bordering town of Solna. The arena is Stockholm's largest, with around 35,000 seats, and although seldom sold out, the club generally attracts the biggest home crowds in Sweden.

- Brommapojkarna plays their home games at Grimsta IP, Bromma (T Hässelby Strand). Brommapojkarna advanced to the top league in 2009.

- Väsjöbacken in Sollentuna, skiing.

- Solvalla hippodrome (Free buses from the City Terminal and T Sundbyberg before races, or a 10 min walk from T Rissne) +46 8 635 90 00 [3]. For a day at the races, you can go to Stockholm's hippodrome Solvalla in the northwestern suburbs and watch trotters compete in harness racing. Races are held Wednesday nights and many weekends. The biggest event is the prestigious Elitloppet race [4] at the end of May every year.

- Elitloppet 2011, May 27-29.

Buy
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- Stockholm Quality Outlet [5], Majorsvägen 2-4, Järfälla (Commuter train to Jakobsberg and then bus 567) [6]. Open M-F 11AM-8PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM. Close to one of Stockholm's two IKEA stores, in the suburb Barkarby, rather far out northwest of the city center, you will find a factory outlet village that claims to be the first and biggest in the Nordic countries, and promises prices 30 to 60 percent lower than in the city center stores.

- Vällingby Centrum, (T Vällingby), [7]. Most stores open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM.

- Kista Galleria, (T Kista), [8]. Open daily 10AM-9PM.

- Täby Centrum, (Roslagsbanan Täby Centrum), [9]. Open daily 10AM-7PM.

- Solna Centrum, (Hotellgatan Solna Centrum), [10]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM.

Eat
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Budget
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Mid-range
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Splurge
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- Edsbacka krog, Sollentunavägen 220 (Commuter train to Sollentuna, buses 607, 627 to Edsbacka), +46 8 96 33 00 [11]. Open M-F 5:30-12PM, Sa 2-12PM (Edsbacka Krog is closing down Feb 27 2010). Located 15 km north of central Stockholm, Sollentuna’s rather traditionalist Edsbacka Krog is the only Swedish restaurant with two stars in the Michelin Guide Rouge. Extensive wine list. Mains 370-420SEK, menus 750-1200SEK.

Drink
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Sleep
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Budget
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- JumboHostel, Jumbovägen 4 near Arlanda Airport, , [12] is a bit of a novelty and conveniently located near the airport. An old Boeing 747 Jumbo jet has been recently converted into a backpackers hostel. Everything inside is new and clean, and linen comes included on made beds. Flat screen TV's in each room are a luxury for hostels, and if you really want to splash out, there is the cockpit suite. On the downside, not much of an atmosphere once you get over the novelty of staying in a jet.

Mid-range
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Splurge
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Contact
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District Southern and Eastern Suburbs Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
toc

See
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- The Globe (Globen, officially "Ericsson Globe"), Globentorget (T Globen) [1]. Located just south of Södermalm, the giant white sphere that is "the Globe" has been one of the most eye-catching features of the Stockholm skyline since its inauguration in 1989. The 16,000-seat arena claims the title as the world’s largest spherical building. It is frequently used for ice hockey games (see Do/Sports section below) but is also used for other sporting events, as well as concerts and galas. Guided tours are currently available for groups only, by prior arrangement, but organized public tours will be held June 22-August 16 (Adults 80 SEK).[2]

- Skogskyrkogården, the Woodland Cemetery (T Skogskyrkogården) [3]. Skogskyrkogården is a UNESCO World Heritage site in the southern suburbs, famous for its architecture. The two architects Gunnar Asplund (who later also would design the Stockholm Public Library) and Sigurd Lewerentz were 30 years old when they won the architecture competition in 1915. All chapels and other main buildings are designed by Asplund, with the exception of the Chapel of Resurrection, designed by Lewerentz, the landscape architect. The site also features works of art by famous Swedish artists such as Sven Erixson, Carl Milles and Otto Sköld. With some 100,000 graves spanning 102 hectares, Skogskyrkogården is the second largest cemetery in Sweden. The film star Greta Garbo is one of several notables buried there. In addition to the large Christian Protestant section, there are also Orthodox, Catholic, Jewish and Muslim sections.

- Millesgården, Herserudsvägen 32 (on Lidingö, T Ropsten and then the Lidingöbanan train to Baggeby or buses to Torsvik), +46 8 446 75 90, [4]. Open M-Su 11AM-5PM 15 May-30 Sep, Tu-Su noon-5PM 1 Oct-14 May. In the former residence and studio of the famous sculptor Carl Milles, his own work is showcased alongside contemporary Swedish and international artists. A new extension was recently built for temporary exhibitions. Adult admission 80SEK.

- Färgfabriken, Lövholmsbrinken 1 (T Liljeholmen, Tvärbanan tram to Trekanten), +46 8 645 07 07 [5]. Open Th-Su noon-6PM (closed for much of the summer). Färgfabriken is an exhibition hall housed in an old colour factory from 1889 (the name translates to "the colour factory"), calling itself "laboratory of the contemporary". It is perhaps one of Sweden's most interesting scenes for contemporary art. Unfortunately, it is closed for most of the summer.

- University College of Art, Crafts and Design (Konstfack), LM Ericssons väg 14 (T Telefonplan), +46 8 450 41 00 [6].

Do
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- Hammarby plays their home games at Söderstadion, Arenavägen (T Globen), a 1950s stadium just south of the inner city. The club's home games are known for their atmosphere, although recent incidents of hooliganism have somewhat marred the reputation of its enthusiastic supporters.

- Djurgården plays some of their ice hockey home games in Globen (the giant Stockholm Globe Arena) and others at the smaller, neighbouring Hovet, both Arenavägen (T Globen).

- AIK plays their ice hockey home games at Hovet.

- Lidingöloppet [7] claims to be the world's largest cross-contry race. Held annually in September on Lidingö, an island east of the inner city, the 30 km running event attracts around 30,000 participants.

- Lidingöloppet 2011, September 24.

- Stockholm International Horse Show [8]. A major international indoor equestrian event, held annually in the Stockholm Globe Arena, featuring the World Cup in dressage, show jumping and World Cup Four in Hand driving.

- Stockholm International Horse Show 2010, November 26-28.

- Hammarbybacken at Hammarby Sjöstad, skiing.

- Ekholmsnäsbacken on Lidingö, skiing.

- Flottsbrobacken in Huddinge, skiing.

Buy
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- Farsta Centrum, (T Farsta), [9]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM.

- Globen Shopping, (T Globen), [10]. Next to the Globe Arena, Globen. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM.

- Skärholmen Centrum, (T Skärholmen), [11]. Open M-F 10AM-7PM, Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-5PM.

- IKEA Kungens Kurva, Kungens Kurva (buses from T Skärholmen). The largest IKEA in the world.

Eat
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Drink
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Sleep
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Budget
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- Globen Villa, Dammtrappgatan 13 (In between metro station globen and Enskede Gard), [12]. checkin: 16-18. In this quiet neighbourhood of traditional workerclass houses a welcoming lady rents 3 units for bed and breakfast. Two of the units are separate buildings, which are well equipped. The breakfast consists of several fresh things like bread, fruits and drinks. The cabins are cosy and great value. The metro is a 5 minute walk and from there 10 mins to the main attractions. Short, the location is fine. The units have their own kitchenettes, so you can cook yourself. The supermarket is a 10 minute walk. Discounts apply if you stay longer. 1200 SEK for a weekend from friday evening to Sunday. 3500 SEK for a week and less if you stay longer. Single night is 600 SEK.

Mid-range
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- Rica Talk Hotel, Mässvägen 2, (commuter train to Älvsjö) [13]. The Rica Talk Hotel is conveniently located next door to Stockholmsmässan, Stockholm's newest convention center, and a short stroll from the Älvsjö station. The hotel is spacious, clean and modern, with the bathrooms extremely pleasing; big bath, good temperature-control shower. All toiletries were in big wall-fixed dispensers, but nice ones, with good quality contents! The breakfast buffet is extensive and plentiful.

Splurge
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Contact
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