SEKAI Explorer Guide Singapore (2011)

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Contributor

This book would not be as it is without the great effort of all supporting Wikitravel user. People who are directly involved in this work are:

Ankit Bhageria, Anonymous, Anonymous user(s) of Wikitravel, Bill Ellett, Claus Hansen, Colin Jensen, Contact Singapore, cz, Daniel Perez-Marquez, David, Divya, Douw Prinsloo, Eco84, E C Tan, Evan Prodromou, Floyd A. Reed, Gaurav, Jair Moreno, James Elliott, James Yolkowski, Jamez Soh, jan, Jani Patokallio, Jeff, Jesse Miers, joanna, Johhny, Kanchan Chitrakar, lachlanis@gmail.com, Leong Shen-li, Lim Wenhui, Marc Heiden, Marian, MarkBrough, Martin Cox, M. Fakhrur Rozi, Michele Ann Jenkins, Mike, Mr Abcx, Mugunth Kumar, Naveen Prabhakar, Niels Elgaard Larsen, Parag Kulkarni, Peter Fitzgerald, Priyan, Raiden Thervosky, Ravikiran Rao, Renaud d'Avout d'Auerstaedt, Ryan Holliday, S Chen, seth gopin, Srijith, Stavro Prodromou, tan jit sheng, Tan Say Kiong, Ted O'Neill, Terence Ong, Timo Saikkonen, Tim Sandell, Todd VerBeek, Upamanyu Mallik, Wandering, Wikitravel user AndreasAndreas, Wikitravel user Bazdm, Wikitravel user Bobypf, Wikitravel user Chronodemon, Wikitravel user Ckcboy02, Wikitravel user Cktoh, Wikitravel user Daniela.L, Wikitravel user Davestar, Wikitravel user Dblecros, Wikitravel user Destron Commander, Wikitravel user Dheerav2, Wikitravel user Hybridace101, Wikitravel user Jetdeau, Wikitravel user Kampongchicken, Wikitravel user Kellyg, Wikitravel user Kommandarskye, Wikitravel user LJade728, Wikitravel user Malkc, Wikitravel user MarkH, Wikitravel user Nikai, Wikitravel user Sam9teen70, Wikitravel user Sgtowns, Wikitravel user Silverelf, Wikitravel user Tarcus, Wikitravel user Tcliff, Wikitravel user VioletV, Wikitravel user Whkoh, wil lee, W K Ong, Yann Forget, Zeno Gantner .

Table of Content:

• Districts

Riverside

Orchard Road

Marina Bay

Bugis and Kampong Glam

Chinatown

Little India

Balestier, Newton, Novena and Toa Payoh

North and West

East Coast

Sentosa

Addresses

• Understand

History

People

Climate

Holidays

Events

• Get in

By plane

Changi Airport

Seletar Airport

By road

By bus

By train

By taxi

By boat

Toorfrom Indonesia

ToorFrom Malaysia

Cruises

• Get around

By rail

By bus

By taxi

By trishaw

By boat

By car

By thumb

By bicycle

On foot

Talk

• See

Itineraries

Travel Tips

• Do

Culture

Gambling

Golf

Races

Spas

Swimming

Water Sports

Snow Sports

• Buy

Costs

Shopping

• Eat

Local delicacies

PeranakanorNonya cuisine

Malay cuisine

Chinese cuisine

Indian cuisine

Hawker centres

Coffee shops

Food courts

Fast food

Restaurants

Fine Dining

Dietary restrictions

• Drink

Alcohol

Tobacco

Prostitution

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

Long-term

• Learn

Cooking

Work

• Stay safe

Emergency numbers

Stay healthy

Medical care

Restroomsortoilets

Respect

Business

• Contact

By phone

By net

By mail

• Cope

Electricity

Embassies, high commissions and consulates

Hair cuts

Laundry

Photo processing

Sports

• Get out

Districts

Singapore is a small country on a small island, but with just over five million people it is a fairly crowded city and in fact second only to Monaco as the world's most densely populated country. However, unlike many other densely populated countries, Singapore has over 50% of its area covered by greenery and with over 50 major parks and 4 nature reserves, it is an enchanting garden city. Large self-contained residential towns mushroomed all over the island, around the clean and modern city center. The center of the city located in the south — consisting roughly of the Orchard road shopping area, the Riverside, the new downtown Marina Bay area and also the skyscrapers-filled Shenton way financial district known in acronym-loving Singapore as the CBD (Central Business District).

- Riverside (Civic District) — Singapore's colonial core, with museums, statues and theaters, not to mention restaurants, bars and clubs.

- Orchard Road — Miles and miles of shopping malls.

- Marina Bay — The newest feature of Singapore, dominated by the Marina Bay Sands casino complex and the Marina Barrage.

- Bugis and Kampong Glam — Bugis and Kampong Glam are Singapore's old Malay district, now largely taken over by shopping

- Chinatown — The area originally designated for Chinese settlement by Raffles, now a Chinese heritage area popular with tourists.

- Little India — A piece of India to the north of the city core.

- Balestier, Newton, Novena and Toa Payoh — Budget accommodations and Burmese temples within striking distance of the center.

- North and West — The northern and western parts of the island, also known as Woodlands and Jurong respectively, form Singapore's residential and industrial hinterlands.

- East Coast — The largely residential eastern part of the island contains Changi Airport, miles and miles of beach and many famous eateries. Also covers Geylang Serai, the true home of Singapore's Malays.

- Sentosa — A separate island once a military fort developed into a resort, Sentosa is the closest that Singapore gets to Disneyland, now with a dash of gambling and Universal Studios thrown in.

Addresses

In the centre, Singapore's addressing system is fairly similar to Western countries (such as 17 Orchard Road), but the new housing developments on the outskirts may appear more intimidating: a typical address might be "Blk 505 Jurong West St 51 #01-186". Here, "Blk 505" is the housing block number, "Jurong West St 51" is the street name, and "#01-186" means floor 1, unit, stall or shop 186. The first digit of both housing block and street number is the neighborhood's number (in this case 5), making it easier to narrow down the right location. There are also 6-digit postal codes, which, considering the small size of the island, generally correspond to exactly one building. For example, "Blk 9 Bedok South Ave 2" is "Singapore 460009". Finally, you will also encounter Malay terms in addresses: the most common are Jalan (Jln) for "Road", Lorong (Lor) for "Lane", Bukit (Bt) for "Hill" and Kampong (Kg) for "Village".

Useful tools for hunting down addresses include StreetDirectory.com [2], GoThere.sg [3] and OneMap.sg[4].

Understand

Singapore is a microcosm of Asia, populated by Chinese, Malays, Indians, and a large group of workers and expatriates from all across the globe. Singapore has a partly deserved reputation for sterile predictability that has earned it descriptions like William Gibson's "Disneyland with the death penalty" or the "world's only shopping mall with a seat in the United Nations". Nevertheless, the Switzerland of Asia is for many a welcome respite from the poverty, chaos, and crime of much of the Asian mainland, and if you scratch below the squeaky clean surface and get away from the tourist trail you'll soon find more than meets the eye.

Singaporean food is legendary, with bustling hawker centres and 24-hour coffee shops offering cheap food from all parts of Asia, and shoppers can bust their baggage allowances in shopping meccas like Orchard Road and Suntec City. In recent years some societal restrictions have also loosened up, and now you can bungee jump and dance on bartops all night long, although alcohol is still very pricey and chewing gum can only be bought from a pharmacy. Two casino complexes — or "Integrated Resorts", to use the Singaporean euphemism — opened in 2010 in Sentosa and Marina Bay as part of Singapore's new Fun and Entertainment drive, the aim being to double the number of tourists visiting and increasing the length of time they stay within the country. Watch out for more loosening up in the future.

History

The first records of Singapore date back to the 2nd-3rd centuries where a vague reference to its location was found in Greek and Chinese texts, under the names of Sabana and Pu Luo Chung respectively. According to legend, Srivijayan prince Sang Nila Utama landed on the island in the 13th century and, catching sight of a strange creature that he thought was a lion, decided to found a new city he called Singapura, Sanskrit for Lion City. Alas, there have never been any lions anywhere near Singapore or elsewhere on Malaya, so the mysterious beast was more probably a tiger.

More historical records indicate that the island was settled at least two centuries earlier and was known as Temasek, Javanese for "Sea Town", and an important port for the Sumatran Srivijaya kingdom. However, Srivijaya fell around 1400 and Temasek, battered by the feuding kingdoms of Siam and the Javanese Majapahit, fell into obscurity. As Singapura, it then briefly regained importance as a trading centre for the Melaka Sultanate and later, the Johor Sultanate. However, Portuguese raiders then destroyed the settlement and Singapura faded into obscurity once more.

The story of Singapore as we know it today thus began in 1819, when Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles made a deal with a claimant to the throne of the Sultanate of Johor: the British would support his claim in exchange for the right to set up a trading post on the island. Though the Dutch initially protested, the signing of the Anglo-Dutch treaty in 1824, which separated the Malay world into British and Dutch spheres of influence (resulting in the current Malaysia-Indonesia and Singapore-Indonesia borders), ended the conflict with the Dutch renouncing their claim to Singapore and ceding their colony in Malacca to the British, in exchange for the British ceding their colonies on Sumatra to the Dutch. Well-placed at the entrance to the Straits of Malacca, straddling the trade routes between China, India, Europe, and Australia, Raffles' masterstroke was to declare Singapore a free port, with no duties charged on trade. As traders flocked to escape onerous Dutch taxes, the trading post soon grew into one of Asia's busiest, drawing people from far and wide. Along with Penang and Malacca, Singapore became one of the Straits Settlements and a jewel in the British colonial crown. Its economic fortunes received a further boost when palm oil and rubber from neighbouring Malaya were processed and shipped out via Singapore. In 1867, Singapore was formally split off from British India and made into a directly ruled Crown Colony.

When World War II broke out, Fortress Singapore was seen as a formidable British base, with massive naval fortifications guarding against assault by sea. However, not only did the fortress lack a fleet as all ships were tied up defending Britain from the Germans, but the Japanese wisely chose to cross Malaya by bicycle instead. Despite hastily turning the guns around, this was something the British had not prepared for at all, and on February 15, 1942, with supplies critically low after less than a week of fighting, Singapore ignominiously surrendered and the colony's erstwhile rulers were packed off to Changi Prison. Tens of thousands perished in the subsequent brutal occupation, and the return of the British in 1945 was less than triumphal — it was clear that their time was up.

Granted self-rule in 1955, Singapore briefly joined Malaysia in 1963 when the British left, but was expelled because the Chinese-majority city was seen as a threat to Malay dominance, and the island became independent on 9 August 1965, thus becoming the only country to gain independence against its own will in the history of the modern world. The subsequent forty years of iron-fisted rule by Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew saw Singapore's economy boom, with the country rapidly becoming one of the wealthiest and most developed in Asia despite its lack of natural resources, earning it a place as one of the four East Asian Tigers. Now led by Lee's son Lee Hsien Loong, the ruling People's Action Party (PAP) continues to dominate the political scene, with 81 out of 87 seats in Parliament and opposition politicians regularly bankrupted by defamation suits. Societal restrictions have been loosened up in recent years though, with the government trying to shake off its staid image, and it remains to be seen how the delicate balancing act between political control and social freedom will play out.

People

Singapore prides itself on being a multi-racial country, and has a diverse culture despite its small size. The largest group are the Chinese, who form about 75% of the population. Amongst the Chinese, Hokkien speakers form the majority, while Teochew and Cantonese speakers round out the top three. Other notable "dialect" groups among the Chinese include the Hakkas, Hainanese and Foochows. The Malays, who are comprised of Singapore's original inhabitants as well as migrants from present day Malaysia, Indonesia and Brunei, form about 14% of the population, while Indians form about 9% of the population. Among the Indians, Tamils form the largest group by far, though there are also a significant numbers of speakers of other Indian languages such as Hindi, Malayalam and Punjabi. The remainder are a mix of many other cultures, most notably the Eurasians who are of mixed European and Asian descent, and also a handful of Filipinos, Burmese, Japanese, Thais and many others. Slighty over one-third of Singapore's residents are not citizens.

Climate

Located a mere 1.5 degrees north of the Equator, the weather is usually sunny with no distinct seasons. Rain falls almost daily throughout the year, usually in sudden, heavy showers that rarely last longer than an hour. However, most rainfall occurs during the northeast monsoon (November to January), occasionally featuring lengthy spells of continuous rain. Spectacular thunderstorms can occur throughout the year, normally in the afternoons, so it's wise to carry an umbrella at all times, both as a shade from the sun or cover from the rain.

Between May and October, forest fires in neighboring Sumatra can also cause dense haze, although this is unpredictable and comes and goes rapidly: check the National Environment Agency's site [5] for current data.

The temperature averages around:

- 30°C (84°F) daytime, 24°C (76°F) at night in December and January.

- 32°C (90°F) daytime, 26°C (81°F) at night for the rest of the year.

The high temperature and humidity, combined with the lack of wind and the fact that temperatures stay high during the night, can take its toll on visitors from colder parts of the world. Bear in mind that spending more than about one hour outdoors can be very exhausting, especially if combined with moderate exercise. Singaporeans themselves shun the heat, and for a good reason. Many live in air-conditioned flats, work in air-conditioned offices, take the air-conditioned metro to air-conditioned shopping malls connected to each other by underground tunnels where they shop, eat, and exercise in air-conditioned fitness clubs. Follow their example if you want to avoid discomfort in the searing heat and humidity of Singapore.

Holidays

Gong xi fa cai Singapore style

There are a few twists to the Singapore way of celebrating Chinese New Year, particularly the food, which bears little resemblance to the steamy hotpots of frigid northern China. The top dish is bak kwa (肉干), sweet barbecued pork, followed closely by yu sheng (魚生), a salad of shredded vegetables and raw fish enthusiastically tossed into the air by all present. Favorite desserts are crumbly sweet pineapple tarts and gooey steamed nian gao (年糕) cakes. Red packets of money (红包 ang pow) are still handed out generously, but unlike in China, in Singapore you only need to start paying up once married.

Singapore is a secular city state but thanks to its multicultural population, Singapore celebrates Chinese, Muslim, Indian, and Christian holidays.

The year kicks off with a bang on January 1st and New Year, celebrated in Singapore just as in the West with a fireworks show and parties at every nightspot in town. Particularly famous are the wet and wild foam parties on the beaches of resort island Sentosa — at least those years when the authorities deign to permit such relative debauchery.

Due to the influence of the Chinese majority, the largest event by far is Chinese New Year (农历新年) or, more politically correctly, Lunar New Year, usually held in February. While this might seem to be an ideal time to visit, many smaller shops and eateries close for 2-3 days during the period, though supermarkets, department stores and high end restaurants remain open. The whole festival stretches out for no less than 42 days, but the frenzied buildup to the peak occurs just before the night of the new moon, with exhortations of gong xi fa cai (恭喜发财 "congratulations and prosper"), red tinsel, mandarin oranges and the year's zodiac animal emblazoned everywhere and crowds of shoppers queuing in Chinatown, where there are also extensive street decorations to add spice to the festive mood. The two following days are spent with family and most of the island comes to a standstill, and then life returns to normal... except for the final burst of Chingay, a colorful parade down Orchard Road held ten days later.

On the fifth day of the fifth month of the Chinese calendar, the Dragon Boat Festival (端午节) is celebrated to commemorate a Chinese folk hero. As part of the celebrations, rice dumplings, which in Singapore are sometimes wrapped in pandan leaves instead of the original bamboo leaves, are usually eaten. In addition, dragon boat races are often held at the Singapore River on this day. The seventh month of the Chinese lunar calendar — usually August — starts off with a puff of smoke, as "hell money" is burned and food offerings are made to please the spirits of ancestors who are said to return to earth at this time. The climax on the 15th day of the lunar calendar is the Hungry Ghost Festival (中元节), when the living get together to stuff themselves and watch plays and Chinese opera performances. Following soon afterwards, the Mid-Autumn Festival (中秋节) on the 15th day of the 8th lunar month (Sep/Oct) is also a major event, with elaborate lantern decorations — particularly in Jurong's Chinese Garden — and moon cakes filled with red bean paste, nuts, and more consumed merrily.

The Hindu festival of lights, Diwali, known locally as Deepavali, is celebrated around October or November and Little India is brightly decorated for the occasion. At around January-February, one may witness the celebration of Thaipusam, a Tamil Hindu festival in which male devotees would carry a kavadi, an elaborate structure which pierces through various parts of his body, and join a procession from the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple in Little India to the Sri Thandayuthapani Temple in Tank Road. Female devotees usually join the procession carrying pots of milk instead. About one week before Deepavali is Thimithi, the fire-walking festival where one can see male devotees walking on burning coals at the Sri Mariamman Temple in Chinatown.

The Islamic month of Ramadan and Eid-ul-Fitr or Hari Raya Puasa as it is called here, is a major occasion in Malay parts of town, particularly Geylang Serai on the East Coast, which is lighted up with extensive decorations during the period. Another festival celebrated by the Malays is Eid-ul-Adha, known locally as Hari Raya Haji, which is the period when Muslims make the trip to Mecca to perform in Hajj. In local mosques, lambs contributed by the faithful are sacrificed and their meat is used to feed the poor.

The Buddhist Vesak Day, celebrating the birthday of the Buddha Sakyamuni, plus the Christian holidays of Christmas Day, for which Orchard road is extensively decorated, and Good Friday round out the list of holidays.

A more secular celebration occurs on August 9th, National Day, when fluttering flags fill Singapore and spectacular National Day parades are held to celebrate independence.

Events

Singapore holds numerous events each year. Some of its famous festivals and events include the Singapore Food Festival, the Singapore Grand Prix, the Singapore Arts Festival, the Chingay Parade, the World Gourmet Summit and ZoukOut.

The Singapore Sun Festival is another popular festival in Singapore, with 2010's line-up featuring renowned stars such as David Foster, Natalie Cole, Jose Carreras and Sharon Stone. Christmas is also widely celebrated in Singapore, a season where the city streets and shopping malls along its famous shopping belt Orchard Road are lit up and decorated in vibrant colours. In addition, the Singapore Jewel Festival attracts numerous tourists every year, and is a display of precious gems, famous jewels and masterpieces from international jewellers and designers.

Get in

Banned in Singapore

There's more to the list than just porn and drugs:
- Overhead wires
- Satellite dishes
- Freestanding billboards
- Handcuffs, even if pink and fuzzy
- Feeding pigeons or monkeys
- Malaysian newspapers
- Homosexual activity

Most nationalities can enter Singapore without a visa. Refer to the Immigration and Checkpoints Authority [6] for current guidelines, including a list of the 30+ nationalities that are required to obtain a visa in advance. Entry permit duration depends on nationality and entry point: most people get 14 or 30 days, although the citizens of the countries that are members of the EU and USA passport holders get 90 days.

Singapore has very strict drug laws, and drug trafficking carries a mandatory death penalty — which is also applied to foreigners. Even if you technically haven't entered Singapore and are merely transiting (i.e. changing flights without the need to clear passport control and customs) while in possession of drugs, you would still be subject to capital punishment. The paranoid might also like to note that in Singapore, it is an offence even to have any drug metabolites in your system, even if they were consumed outside Singapore, and Customs occasionally does spot urine tests at the airport! In addition, bringing in explosives or firearms without a permit is also a capital offence in Singapore.

Bring prescriptions for any medicines you may have with you, and obtain prior permission from the Health Sciences Authority [7] before bringing in any sedatives (eg. Valium/diazepam) or strong painkillers (eg. codeine). Hippie types may expect a little extra attention from Customs, but getting a shave and a haircut is no longer a condition for entry.

Duty free allowances for alcohol are 1 L of spirits and up to 2 L of wine or beer per person unless you are entering from Malaysia, from which there is no duty free allowance. Alcohol may not be brought in by persons under the age of 18. There is no duty free allowance for cigarettes: all cigarettes legally sold in Singapore are stamped "SDPC", and smokers caught with unmarked cigarettes may be fined $500 per pack. (In practice, though, bringing in one opened pack is usually tolerated.) If you declare your cigarettes or excess booze at customs, you can opt to pay the tax or let the customs officers keep the cigarettes until your departure. Bringing in chewing gum is also technically illegal, though customs officers rarely bother with a few sticks for personal consumption as long as you are discreet about it.

Pornography, pirated goods and publications by the Jehovah's Witnesses and the Unification Church may not be imported to Singapore, and baggage is scanned at land and sea entry points. In theory, all entertainment media including movies and video games must be sent to the Board of Censors for approval before they can be brought into Singapore, but that is rarely if ever enforced for original (non-pirated) goods. Pirated CDs or DVDs, on the other hand, can land you fines of up to $1000 per disc.

By plane

Singapore is one of Southeast Asia's largest aviation hubs, so unless you're coming from Peninsular Malaysia or Batam/Bintan in Indonesia, the easiest way to enter Singapore is by air. In addition to flag-carrier Singapore Airlines [8] and its regional subsidiary SilkAir [9], Singapore is also home to low-cost carriers Tiger Airways [10] and Jetstar Asia [11].

In addition to the locals, every carrier of any size in Asia offers flights to Singapore, with pan-Asian discount carrier AirAsia [12] and Malaysian regional operator Firefly [13] operating dense networks from Singapore. There are also direct services to Europe, the Middle East, Australia, New Zealand, North America, and even South Africa. Singapore is particularly popular on the "Kangaroo Route" between Australia and Europe, with airlines like Qantas [14] and British Airways [15] using Singapore as the main stopover point.

Changi Airport

The price of cheap flights

No transfer facilities are available at the Budget Terminal, so if one or more of your connecting flights arrives or departs here, you have to go through arrival immigration and customs, check in your luggage again and go through departure immigration. If required for your nationality, you will need a valid Singapore visa for this, and it's best to allow at least 2-3 hr to complete the process. Transfers between the main terminals do not require this rigmarole.

As befits the country's main airport and major regional hub status, Changi Airport (IATA: SIN; ICAO: WSSS) [16] is big, pleasant, and well organized, and immigration and baggage distribution is remarkably fast. The airport is split into three main terminals (T1, T2 and T3) plus a dedicated Budget Terminal for low-cost airlines (currently only Tiger Airways, Cebu Pacific, Firefly and Berjaya Air).

Figuring out which terminal your flight arrives in or departs from can be complicated: for example, Singapore Airlines uses both T2 and T3, and only announces the arrival terminal two hours before landing. Fortunately transfers are quite easy, as the three main terminals are connected with the free Skytrain service, which can be used without passing through immigration. Terminal 1 is physically connected to Terminals 2 and 3 by walking that you will notice you're in a different terminal except by reading the signs. The Budget Terminal, on the other hand, can only be reached by passing through immigration and taking a shuttle bus from the basement of T2. Your departing terminal is more straightforward as Singapore Airlines designates T2 as departures for destinations in South East Asia, the Indian subcontinent, the Middle East (including Turkey) and Africa while all other destinations will use T3. When you return to the airport and are leaving Singapore via Singapore Airlines, be sure to at least tell the driver your destination so he knows which terminal to take you to.

Unlike most other airports, there are no separate zones for departing and arriving passengers in the main terminals prior to passport control hence arriving passengers are free to shop and eat at the airside establishments if they are not in a hurry to meet someone or catch prearranged transportation. In addition, if they have no luggage checked-in from their point of origin, they can clear passport control at any other terminal.

If you have over 5 hr to spare there are free city tours six times a day, check in at the Singapore Visitor Centre in any terminal. Even if stuck in the airport, there are plenty of ways to kill time, as each terminal has a unique design and the airside areas of T1, T2, and T3 are attractions in themselves. T2, arguably the most interesting, has an indoor garden, a music listening area with couches and mood lighting, a computer gaming room, a small movie theater, paid massage services, and of course plenty of duty-free shops. T3, the newest, has a butterfly garden and plenty of natural light, but fewer entertainment options. T1 has a swimming pool and jacuzzi. You can travel between the main terminals without passing through immigration and, if you have no checked-in luggage to collect, you can clear passport control and customs at any terminal. The Budget Terminal, on the other hand, is strictly functional.

In all terminals, internet access is provided free of charge, both wirelessly and via some 200 terminals and kiosks, there are some Xbox systems set up to keep gamers entertained, and there's live lounge music at times. There are also SingTel and Starhub payphones that offer unlimited free local calls. ATMs abound and money changers offer reasonable rates as well, although you pay a small premium compared to the city. Food options are varied and generally reasonably priced, with some choice picks including the Peranakan-themed Soup Restaurant (T2 landside), which serves much more than just soup, and Sakae Sushi (T2 airside). If you're up for a little adventure, seek out the staff canteen at level 3M of the carpark next to T2, it's open to the public and serves cheap local food.

Terminals T1, T2 and T3 all have airside (i.e., accessible without passing through immigration) transit hotels. ☎ +65 65419106 or book online via the Ambassador Transit Hotel [17] website. A 6 hr "block" for a single/double/triple costs $73.56/82.39/110.35, budget singles (shared bathroom) $51.50, extensions $17.65 per hr. You can rent a shower (without a room) to freshen up for $8.40. The Plaza Premier Lounges [18] also offer a basic but functional gym with shower for $8.40 with a Singapore Airlines boarding pass.

From the airport there are a number of ways to get into the city:

- Taxi (cab) is easiest - simply follow the signs after clearing customs. Meters are always used in Singapore and prices are reasonable. A trip to the city during the day will be between $20-$30 including $3-5 airport surcharge. An additional 50% surcharge applies between midnight and 6AM.

- Limousines charge a flat $50 to anywhere in the city and are a pretty good deal after midnight, as you can skip the queue and avoid the surcharge. The same pricing applies to chartering van-sized MaxiCabs, which are good for large families or if you have lots of baggage.

- Shuttle - Shared six-seater MaxiCab shuttle service to designated areas/hotels costs $7 and can be booked in advance or in the arrivals hall. 6AM-2AM, every 15-30 min.

- Subway - MRT trains run from a station between T2 and T3, but you'll need to change trains at Tanah Merah to a city-bound train: just exit through the left hand side door and cross the platform. The 30 min ride to City Hall station costs $1.90 plus a refundable $1 deposit, and trains run from 5:31AM-11:18PM.

- Bus - Bus terminals can be found in the basements of T1, T2 and T3. 6 AM to midnight only. Fares are sub-$2.00, exact fare required (no change given) if you pay cash.

Seletar Airport

Seletar Airport (IATA: XSP; ICAO: WSSL), completed in 1928 and first used for civil aviation in 1930, is Singapore's first airport. While later airports like Kallang and Paya Lebar have been closed and turned into a military airbase respectively, Seletar is still in use to this day.

Currently, Seletar Airport is only used for general aviation, so if you're flying your own aircraft to Singapore, you'll most probably land here. The only practical means of access to Seletar is taxi, and trips from the airport incur a $3 surcharge.

By road

Singapore is linked by two land crossings to Peninsular Malaysia:

The Causeway is a very popular and thus terminally congested entry point connecting Woodlands in the north of Singapore directly into the heart of Johor Bahru. While congestion isn't as bad as it once was, the Causeway is still jam-packed on Friday evenings (towards Malaysia) and Sunday evenings (towards Singapore). The Causeway can be crossed by bus, train, taxi or car, but it is no longer feasible to cross on foot after Malaysia shifted their customs and immigration complex 2 km inland.

A second crossing between Malaysia and Singapore, known as the Second Link, has been built between Tuas in western Singapore and Tanjung Kupang in the western part of Johor state. Much faster and less congested than the Causeway, it is used by some of the luxury bus services to Kuala Lumpur and is strongly recommended if you have your own car. There is only one infrequent bus across the Second Link, and only Malaysian "limousine" taxis are allowed to cross it (and charge RM150 and up for the privilege). Walking across is also not allowed, not that there would be any practical means to continue the journey from either end if you did.

Driving into Singapore with a foreign-registered car is rather complicated and expensive; see the Land Transport Authority's Driving Into & Out of Singapore [19] guide for the administrative details. Peninsular Malaysia-registered cars need to show that they have valid road tax and Malaysian insurance coverage. Other foreign cars need a Vehicle Registration Certificate, Customs Document (Carnet), Vehicle Insurance purchased from a Singapore-based insurance company and an International Circulation Permit. All foreign registered cars and motorcycles can be driven in Singapore for a maximum of 10 days in each calendar year without paying Vehicle Entry Permit (VEP) fees, but after the 10 free days have been utilised, you will need to pay a VEP fee of up to $20/day.

Go through immigration first and get your passport stamped. Then follow the Red Lane to buy the AutoPass ($10) from the LTA office. At the parking area, an LTA officer will verify your car, road tax and insurance cover note and issue you a small chit of paper which you take to the LTA counter to buy your AutoPass and rent an In-vehicle Unit (IU) for road pricing charges (or opt to pay a flat $5/day fee instead). Once that is done, proceed to customs where you will have to open the boot for inspection. After that, you are free to go anywhere in Singapore. Any VEP fees, road pricing charges and tolls will be deducted from your AutoPass when you exit Singapore. This is done by slotting the AutoPass into the reader at the immigration counter while you get your passport stamped.

Driving into Malaysia from Singapore is relatively uncomplicated, although small tolls are charged for both crossing and (for the Second Link) the adjoining expressway. In addition, Singapore-registered vehicles are required to have their fuel tanks at least 3/4 full before leaving Singapore. Do be sure to change some ringgit before crossing, as Singapore dollars are accepted only at the unfavorable rate of 1:1.

In both directions, note that rental cars will frequently ban or charge extra for crossing the border.

By bus

Buses connect various corners of Singapore, but are slower and harder to use than the MRT. The advantage though of this is you get to see the sights rather than a dark underground tunnel at a low price. You can pay cash (coins) in buses, but the fare stage system is quite complex (it's easiest to ask the driver for the price to your destination), you are charged marginally more and there is no provision for getting change. Payment with ez-link or Nets Flashpay card is thus the easiest method: tap your card against the reader at the front entrance of the bus when boarding, and a maximum fare is deducted from the card. When you alight, tap your card again at the exit, and the difference is refunded. Make sure you tap out, or you'll end up paying the maximum fare! Inspectors occasionally prowl buses to check that everybody has paid or tapped, so those who are on tourist day passes should tap before sitting down. Dishonest bus commuters risk getting fine $20 for not paying or underpaying fares (by premature tapping-out) and $50 for improper use of concession cards. Another advantage of ez-link or Nets Flashpay cards is that you will be able to enjoy distance-based fares and avoid the boarding fee.

After midnight on Fri, Sat and before public holidays only, the NightRider [43] services are a fairly convenient way of getting around, with seven lines running every 20 min. All services drive past the major nightlife districts of Boat Quay, Clarke Quay, Mohamed Sultan and Orchard before splintering off. Flat fare $4.00, EZ-link accepted.

As mentioned earlier, Gothere.sg will give you options as to which busses will take you from your origin or destination.

By train

Singapore is the southern terminus of Malaysia's Keretapi Tanah Melayu (Malayan Railway or KTMB) [28] network. There are two day trains (the Ekspres Sinaran Pagi and Ekspres Rakyat) and a sleeper service (Ekspres Senandung Malam) daily from Kuala Lumpur, and also a day train (the Lambaian Timur departing Singapore at 4:45AM) and sleeper (Ekspres Timuran departing at 6PM) daily along the "Jungle Railway" between Singapore and Gua Musang (Lambian Timur) or Tumpat (Ekspres Timuran), near Kota Bharu in the East Coast of Malaysia. Trains are clean and fairly efficient, but slower than buses. See Malaysia#By train for details about fares and travel classes.

For time being, trains arrive at the small colonial-era railway station in Tanjong Pagar at the southern edge of the CBD, a bit of a hike from Tanjong Pagar MRT station. There's no ATM in the immediate vicinity, but there is a money changer, a simple restaurant and a taxi stand just outside to the right. Alternatively, you can also get off in Woodlands right after immigration and continue into Singapore by bus or taxi — from July 2011, this will become the only option after the Tanjong Pagar station ceases to function as the KTMB Singapore terminal.

KTMB tickets in Singapore will be charged in dollars, while those bought in Malaysia will be charged in ringgit at a 1:1 rate. A ticket which costs RM10 in Malaysia will thus cost $10 if bought in Singapore. There are three ways to avoid paying double:

1. Book your tickets as return tickets from Malaysia. For example, Kuala Lumpur-Singapore-Kuala Lumpurwill be charged at the ringgit rate.

2. Cross the border by road and then board the train at Johor Bahru. Note that making a reservation is highly advisable; the easiest way is to book online.

3. Buy the cheapest ticket you can from Singapore to JB, then your 'real' ticket from JB onward. Change to your 'real' seat after crossing the border.

You will not get a Malaysian entry stamp in your passport if you enter the country by train, so don't panic. Passports are checked (but not stamped) by Malaysian immigration before you enter the platform to board the train in Tanjong Pagar, but you will get a Singapore exit stamp only at Woodlands station, about half-an-hour's journey away. Coming in from Malaysia, the situation is much more conventional - Malaysia stamps you out in Johor Bahru (you don't even need to get out of the train) and Singapore stamps you in at Woodlands (you will have to disembark and walk through immigration, though).

By taxi

Taxicabs use meters and are reasonably priced and honest, however, a shortage of taxis in Singapore means that they are often unavailable for hours at a time. Outside weekday peak hours, trips within the city center should not cost you more than $10 and even a trip right across the island from Changi to Jurong will not break the $35 mark. If you are in a group of 3 or 4, it's sometimes cheaper and faster to take a taxi than the MRT. Be aware, however, that taxis are often remarkably difficult to secure, especially during peak commute or shopping hours, or when there is inclement weather. During these times it can be impossible to get through to a booking agent via telephone, and you can expect extended waits in taxi queues. There is a puzzling lack of action to address this persistent and frustrating taxi shortage.

Taxi pricing is largely identical across all companies at $2.80-3.00 as a flag down rate (depending on the type of vehicle used), which lasts you 1 km before increments of $0.20 per 385 m (for the first 10 km) or $0.20 per 330 m (after the first 10 km). (The sole exception is SMRT's giant black Chryslers, which charge $5 and then $0.30 per 385 m.) Watch out for surprises though: there are a myriad of peak hour (35%), late night (50%), central business district ($3), trips from airport or the IRs ($3-$5 during peak hours), phone booking ($2.50 and up), public holiday ($1) and Electronic Road Pricing surcharges, which may add a substantial amount to your taxi fare. All such charges are shown on the bottom right-hard corner of the meter, recorded in the printed receipt and explained in tedious detail in a sticker on the window; if you suspect the cabbie is trying to pull a fast one, call the company and ask for an explanation. Note that there is no surcharge for trips to the airport. While all taxis are equipped to handle (and are required to accept) credit cards, in practice many cabbies do not accept electronic payment. Always ask before getting in. Paying by credit card will incur an additional surcharge of 17%. During rush hour in the city center, or late at night on the weekends, it's wise to call for a taxi from the unified booking system at ☎ +65 6342 5222 (6-DIAL-CAB).

Despite the costs involved, taxis may sometimes take you to distant locations outside the CBD faster than mass transport. An airport trip from downtown may take less than 20 mins on a cab but more than 30 mins on an MRT.

In the Central Business District, taxis may pick up passengers only at taxi stands (found outside any shopping mall) or buildings with their own driveways (including virtually all hotels). Outside the centre, you're free to hail taxis on the street or call one to your doorstep. At night spots featuring long queues, such as Clarke Quay, you may on occasion be approached by touts offering a quick flat fare to your destination. This is illegal and very expensive but reasonably safe for you. (Drivers, on the other hand, will probably lose their job if caught.)

Some Singapore taxi drivers have very poor geographical knowledge and may expect you to know where they should go, so it may be helpful to bring a map of your destination area or directions on finding where you wish to go. Some cabbies may also ask you which route you want to take; most are satisfied with "whichever way is faster".

By boat

Tourist-oriented bumboats cruise the Singapore River, offering point-to-point rides starting from $3 and cruises with nice views of the CBD skyscraper skyline starting from $13. You can also take a ferry ($15 round-trip) to Singapore's largely uninhabited Southern Islands for a picnic and lagoon swimming, but do remember to bring along food and drinks as there are no shops on the islands.

Bumboats also shuttle passengers from Changi Village to Pulau Ubin ($2.50 one-way), a small island off Singapore's northeast coast which is about as close as Singapore gets to unhurried rural living.

Toorfrom Indonesia

To/from Batam: Ferries to/from Batam Centre, Batu Ampar (Harbour Bay), Sekupang and Waterfront City (Teluk Senimba) use HarbourFront FT, while ferries to/from Nongsapura use Tanah Merah FT. Operators at Harbourfront include:

- Penguin, ☎ +65 62714866 in HarbourFront ☎+62 778 467574 in Batam Centre ☎+62 778 321636 in Sekupang ☎+62 778 381280 in Waterfront City [29]. Virtually hourly ferries to/from Batam Centre and Sekupang, fewer ferries to/from Waterfront City. $16/20 one-way/return before taxes and fuel surcharge.

- Indo Falcon, ☎ +65 62783167, [30]. Hourly ferries to Batam Centre, fewer to Waterfront City. This company does not operate to/from Sekupang. Similar fares.

- Berlian/Wave Master, ☎ +65 65468830. Operates 16 trips to/from Batu Ampar. Fares are similar to the other companies.

- Dino/Batam Fast, ☎+65 62700311 in Harbourfront ☎ +62 778 467793, +62 778 470344 in Batam Centre ☎ +62 778 325085, +62 778 3250856 in Sekupang ☎ +62 778 381150 in Waterfront City, [31]. Also hourly ferries to/from Batam Centre, fewer ferries to/from Sekupang and Waterfront City. $14/20 one-way/return before taxes and surcharges.

At Tanah Merah:

- Dino/Batam Fast, ☎ +65 62700311 in Singapore ☎ +62 778 761071 in Nongsa, [32]. Around 8 ferries daily to/from Nongsa, the resort area on the northeastern tip of Batam. $16/22 one-way/return before taxes and surcharges.

To/from Bintan: All ferries for Bintan use Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal. For Tanjung Pinang, there are total of 6 ferries a day, increasing to 9 during weekends. $25/35 one-way/return before taxes and surcharges. Operators include:

- Dino/Batam Fast, ☎ +65 65426310 in Tanah Merah, [33].

- Penguin, ☎ +65 65427105 in Tanah Merah ☎+62 771 315143 in Tanjung Pinang ☎ +62 770 696120 in Lobam, [34].

- Indo Falcon, ☎ +65 65426786 in Tanah Merah, [35]

- Berlian/Wave Master, ☎ +65 65468830 in Tanah Merah.

For Bintan Resorts (Bandar Bentan Telani), Bintan Resort Ferries, ☎ +65 65424369, [36] operates five ferries from Tanah Merah FT on weekdays, increasing to 7 during weekends. $34.60/50.20 one-way/return peak period, $26.60/39.20 one-way/return off-peak including taxes and fuel surcharge.

To/from Karimun: Tanjung Balai is served by Penguin and IndoFalcon from Harbourfront, with six ferries total on weekdays, increasing to 8 during weekends. $24/33 one-way/return including taxes and fuel surcharge.

ToorFrom Malaysia

Ferries shuttle from Singapore to southeastern Johor and are handy for access to the beach resort of Desaru. Scheduled ferry service to Tioman was discontinued in 2003.

- Pengerang: Bumboats shuttle between Changi Point Ferry Terminal at Changi Village, 51 Lorong Bekukong, ☎ +65 65452305, +65 65451616, and Pengerang, a village at the southeastern tip of Johor. Boats ($10 per person, $2 per bicycle one-way) operate between 7 AM and 7 PM and leave when they reach the 12-passenger quota.

- Sebana Cove Resort, Desaru: Ferries to/from Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal operated by Indo Falcon, ☎ +65 65426786 in Tanah Merah, [37]. Three ferries daily except Tue. $48(A)/38(C) return including taxes and fuel surcharge.

- Tanjung Belungkor, Desaru: Cruise Ferries ☎ +65 65468518, +65 65468675, Operates passenger ferries from Changi Ferry Terminal three times daily, departures at 10AM, 5PM and 8PM, $22 return. The previous car ferry service has been suspended.

Cruises

Star Cruises [38] offers multi-day cruises from Singapore to points throughout Southeast Asia, departing from HarbourFront FT. Itineraries vary widely and change from year to year, but common destinations include Malacca, Klang (Kuala Lumpur), Penang, Langkawi, Redang and Tioman in Malaysia, as well as Phuket, Krabi, Ko Samui and Bangkok in Thailand. There are also several cruises every year to Borneo (Malaysia), Sihanoukville (Cambodia), Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnam) and even some 10 night long hauls to Hong Kong. An all-inclusive 2 night cruise may cost as little as $400 per person in the cheapest cabin class if you book early, but beware the numerous surcharges and note that non-residents may be charged significantly higher rates.

Singapore is also a popular stop for round-the-world cruises, including those originating from as far as Europe or North America. Check with your respective cruise companies for details.

Get around

Getting around Singapore is effortless: the public transportation system is among the best in the world and taxis are reasonably priced. Very few visitors rent cars. Gothere.sg [39] does a pretty good job of figuring out the fastest route by MRT and bus and even estimating taxi fares between any two points.

If you are staying in Singapore for some time, the EZ-link[40] contactless RFID farecard or a Nets Flash Pay card might be a worthwhile purchase. Those who are familiar with Hong Kong's Octopus card, London Underground's Oyster card or Japan Railway's IC cards will quickly understand the concept of the EZ-link and Nets Flash Pay card. You can store value on it and use it on the MRT trains as well as all city buses at a 15% discount. The card costs $12, including $7 stored value, and the card can be "topped up" in increments of at least $10 at the farecard vending machines or 7-Eleven stores. You can use the same card for 5 years. The card technology was changed in 2009, but if you have any old cards lying around, they can be exchanged for free with value intact at TransitLink offices in all MRT stations.

Alternatively, the Singapore Tourist Pass [41] available at selected major MRT stations (including Changi Airport and Orchard) also includes ez-link card functionality and a variety of discounts for attractions. Prices start at $8 a day for unlimited travel on MRT and buses, but you need to a travel a lot to make this alone pay off.

Single tickets can be purchased for both MRT and buses, but it's a hassle, and in the case of buses it delays everyone else because the driver has to count fare stages to tell you how much you need to pay.

Distance based fares[42] is introduced in July 2010 to further integrate Singapore's public transport fare structure. All commuters will be charged a fare according to the total distance traveled, on the bus, LRT and MRT, and make transfers without incurring additional cost. Fares are now computed on a journey basis, without a boarding charge being imposed for every transfer trip that makes up the journey.

Distance based fares

Please remember these points to enjoy full benefits of distance based fares:

- Pay with an EZ-Link or NETS Flashpay stored value card

- Make at most 5 transfers within a single journey, with a 45-minute allowance between each transfer

- Take at most 2 hours to complete a journey

- Enter and exit the train network only once in a journey and

- Do not take the same bus service number more than once in a journey

By rail

The MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) and LRT (Light Rail Transit) are trains that are the main trunk of Singapore's transit system. They are a cheap and very reliable mode of transportation, and the network covers most points of interest for the visitor. All train lines use contactless RFID tickets. Just tap to scan your train ticket at the gantry when entering and exiting the train service area. Single-trip tickets cost from $0.80 to $2 plus a $1 refundable deposit, just insert your used ticket into the ticketing machine to get your dollar back. EZ-link or Nets FlashPay farecards (described above) are the easiest and most popular ways to use the MRT. All lines are seamlessly integrated, even if the lines are operated by different transport companies, so you do not need to buy a new ticket to transfer.

The MRT stations are clean and usually equipped with free toilets. Underground stations have platform doors between the train and the platform so there is no risk of falling onto the tracks. The North-East line is fully automated, as is the new Circle Line and all upcoming lines, so it's worth walking up to the front of the train to look out a tiny window and realize that there is no driver!

By bus

Buses connect various corners of Singapore, but are slower and harder to use than the MRT. The advantage though of this is you get to see the sights rather than a dark underground tunnel at a low price. You can pay cash (coins) in buses, but the fare stage system is quite complex (it's easiest to ask the driver for the price to your destination), you are charged marginally more and there is no provision for getting change. Payment with ez-link or Nets Flashpay card is thus the easiest method: tap your card against the reader at the front entrance of the bus when boarding, and a maximum fare is deducted from the card. When you alight, tap your card again at the exit, and the difference is refunded. Make sure you tap out, or you'll end up paying the maximum fare! Inspectors occasionally prowl buses to check that everybody has paid or tapped, so those who are on tourist day passes should tap before sitting down. Dishonest bus commuters risk getting fine $20 for not paying or underpaying fares (by premature tapping-out) and $50 for improper use of concession cards. Another advantage of ez-link or Nets Flashpay cards is that you will be able to enjoy distance-based fares and avoid the boarding fee.

After midnight on Fri, Sat and before public holidays only, the NightRider [43] services are a fairly convenient way of getting around, with seven lines running every 20 min. All services drive past the major nightlife districts of Boat Quay, Clarke Quay, Mohamed Sultan and Orchard before splintering off. Flat fare $4.00, EZ-link accepted.

As mentioned earlier, Gothere.sg will give you options as to which busses will take you from your origin or destination.

By taxi

Taxicabs use meters and are reasonably priced and honest, however, a shortage of taxis in Singapore means that they are often unavailable for hours at a time. Outside weekday peak hours, trips within the city center should not cost you more than $10 and even a trip right across the island from Changi to Jurong will not break the $35 mark. If you are in a group of 3 or 4, it's sometimes cheaper and faster to take a taxi than the MRT. Be aware, however, that taxis are often remarkably difficult to secure, especially during peak commute or shopping hours, or when there is inclement weather. During these times it can be impossible to get through to a booking agent via telephone, and you can expect extended waits in taxi queues. There is a puzzling lack of action to address this persistent and frustrating taxi shortage.

Taxi pricing is largely identical across all companies at $2.80-3.00 as a flag down rate (depending on the type of vehicle used), which lasts you 1 km before increments of $0.20 per 385 m (for the first 10 km) or $0.20 per 330 m (after the first 10 km). (The sole exception is SMRT's giant black Chryslers, which charge $5 and then $0.30 per 385 m.) Watch out for surprises though: there are a myriad of peak hour (35%), late night (50%), central business district ($3), trips from airport or the IRs ($3-$5 during peak hours), phone booking ($2.50 and up), public holiday ($1) and Electronic Road Pricing surcharges, which may add a substantial amount to your taxi fare. All such charges are shown on the bottom right-hard corner of the meter, recorded in the printed receipt and explained in tedious detail in a sticker on the window; if you suspect the cabbie is trying to pull a fast one, call the company and ask for an explanation. Note that there is no surcharge for trips to the airport. While all taxis are equipped to handle (and are required to accept) credit cards, in practice many cabbies do not accept electronic payment. Always ask before getting in. Paying by credit card will incur an additional surcharge of 17%. During rush hour in the city center, or late at night on the weekends, it's wise to call for a taxi from the unified booking system at ☎ +65 6342 5222 (6-DIAL-CAB).

Despite the costs involved, taxis may sometimes take you to distant locations outside the CBD faster than mass transport. An airport trip from downtown may take less than 20 mins on a cab but more than 30 mins on an MRT.

In the Central Business District, taxis may pick up passengers only at taxi stands (found outside any shopping mall) or buildings with their own driveways (including virtually all hotels). Outside the centre, you're free to hail taxis on the street or call one to your doorstep. At night spots featuring long queues, such as Clarke Quay, you may on occasion be approached by touts offering a quick flat fare to your destination. This is illegal and very expensive but reasonably safe for you. (Drivers, on the other hand, will probably lose their job if caught.)

Some Singapore taxi drivers have very poor geographical knowledge and may expect you to know where they should go, so it may be helpful to bring a map of your destination area or directions on finding where you wish to go. Some cabbies may also ask you which route you want to take; most are satisfied with "whichever way is faster".

By trishaw

Trishaws, three-wheeled bicycle taxis, haunt the area around the Singapore River and Chinatown. Geared purely for tourists, they should be avoided for serious travel as locals do not use them. There is little room for bargaining: short rides will cost $10-20 and an hour's sightseeing charter about $50 per person.

By boat

Tourist-oriented bumboats cruise the Singapore River, offering point-to-point rides starting from $3 and cruises with nice views of the CBD skyscraper skyline starting from $13. You can also take a ferry ($15 round-trip) to Singapore's largely uninhabited Southern Islands for a picnic and lagoon swimming, but do remember to bring along food and drinks as there are no shops on the islands.

Bumboats also shuttle passengers from Changi Village to Pulau Ubin ($2.50 one-way), a small island off Singapore's northeast coast which is about as close as Singapore gets to unhurried rural living.

By car

Car rental is not a popular option in Singapore. You will usually be looking at upwards for $100 per day for the smallest vehicle from the major rental companies, although local ones can be cheaper and there are sometimes good weekend prices available. This does not include gas at around $1.80/litre or electronic road pricing (ERP) fees, and you'll usually need to pay extra to drive to Malaysia. If planning on touring Malaysia by car, it makes much more sense to head across the border to Johor Bahru, where both rentals and petrol are half price, and you have the option of dropping your car off elsewhere in the country. This also avoids the unwelcome extra attention that Singapore plates tend to get from thieves and greedy cops.

Roads in Singapore are in excellent condition and driving habits are generally good with most people following the traffic rules due to stringent enforcement, though road courtesy tends to be sorely lacking. Compared to other major cities around the world like Sydney, Tokyo or Hong Kong, parking spaces are comparatively easier to find in the city centre of Singapore, although peak hour congestion can be quite severe. Foreign licenses in English are valid in Singapore for up to a year from your date of entry, after which you will have to convert your foreign license to a Singapore one. Foreign licenses not in English must be accompanied by an International Driving Permit (IDP) or an official English translation (usually available from your embassy) for them to be valid.

Singaporeans drive on the left (UK style) and the driving age is 18. The speed limit is only 90 km/h on expressways and 60 km/h on other roads. ERP payments require a stored-value CashCard, which is usually arranged by the rental agency, but it's your responsibility to ensure it has enough value. Passing through an ERP gantry with insufficient value will mean that alert is sent to your registered address. You will need to pay an administrative fee in addition to the difference between the remaining amount and the actual charge. You have a limited time to settle this otherwise your penalty becomes heavier.

All passengers must wear seatbelts and using a phone while driving is banned. Drink-driving is not tolerated: the maximum blood alcohol content is 0.08%, with roadblocks set up at night to catch offenders, who are heavily fined and possibly jailed. Even if your blood alcohol level does not exceed the legal limit, you can still be charged with drink driving if the police are convinced that your ability to control the vehicle has been compromised by the presence of alcohol (i.e. if you get involved in an accident). The police do conduct periodic roadblocks and speed cameras are omnipresent. Fines will be sent by mail to you or your rental agency, who will then pass on the cost with a surcharge. If stopped for a traffic offense, don't even think about trying to bribe your way out.

By thumb

Hitchhiking is virtually unheard of in Singapore, and given the size of the country and its cheap, ubiquitous public transport, it's hardly necessary.

By bicycle

Using bicycles as a substitute for public transportation is possible, although there's little bicycling culture and amenities like bike lanes or bike racks are a rarity. While the city is small and its landscape is flat, it can be difficult to predict how rideable a route will be without scoping it out first. Buses, taxis, and motorists stopping to drop off or pick up passengers rarely check for cyclists before merging back onto the roadway, which makes certain routes especially treacherous. The ubiquitous road works around Singapore can also make cycling more hazardous when temporary road surfaces are not kept safe for biking, portable traffic barriers make it hard for vehicles to see cyclists, and construction crews directing traffic are unsure of how to deal with cyclists on the roadway.

Air quality can also be a problem. According to Singapore's LTA, Singapore has more than 178,000 diesel diesel powered cars, taxis, buses, and trucks, which can make biking on Singapore's crowded roads very unpleasant. When the thick smoke from Indonesian fires descends on Singapore, air quality plummets even further.

There are few bike lanes in Singapore, and none in the city center. The 2010 campaign, "1.5M Matters" seems to have little effect on the driving habits of Singaporians, who often pass uncomfortably close to cyclists. In 2008 22 cyclists were killed on Singapore roadways, and in 2009, 19. According to the Singapore "Ride of Silence" two cyclists are hit by motor vehicles every day in Singapore.

Small folding bicycles may be taken on the MRT during certain times of the day, but large bicycles are a no-no. Bicycles may cross the Causeway to Malaysia (on motorbike lanes), but are not allowed on expressways.

On foot

Singapore is generally fairly 'pedestrian-friendly'. In the main business district and on main roadways, sidewalks and pedestrian crossings are in good shape and plentiful. Drivers are mindful of marked crossing zones, but are less likely be aware or respectful of pedestrians crossing at streetcorners on less busy streets where crosswalks are not marked, even though by law any accident between a pedestrian and a vehicle is presumed to be the driver's fault. In residential areas of Singapore, pedestrians can be frustrated by narrow and poorly-maintained sidewalks that often jump from one side of the street to the other or just disappear, and frequently are obstructed by trash cans and plantings. Jaywalking is illegal and punished with fines of $25 and up to three months in jail.

Classic walks in Singapore include walking down the river from the Merlion through the Quays, trekking along the Southern Ridges Walk or just strolling around Chinatown, Little India or Bugis.

An unavoidable downside, though, is the tropical heat and humidity, which leaves many visitors sweaty and exhausted, so bring along a handkerchief and a bottle of water. It's best to get an early start, pop into air-conditioned shops, cafes, and museums to cool off, and plan on heading back to the shopping mall or hotel pool before noon. Alternatively, after sundown, evenings can also be comparatively cool.

Talk

Who are the people in your neighborhood?

The Big 3 — Chinese, Malays and Indians — get all the press, but there are plenty of other communities with their own little neighborhoods (or shopping malls) in Singapore:

Arabs: Arab Street, of course
Burmese: Peninsula Plaza, on North Bridge Rd
Filipinos: Lucky Plaza, on Orchard Rd
Indonesians: City Plaza, near Paya Lebar MRT
Japanese: Robertson Quay and Clarke Quay, especially the Liang Court shopping mall, plus Cuppage Plaza, opposite the Somerset MRT and Takashimaya along Orchard Road
Koreans: Tanjong Pagar Rd
Thais: Golden Mile Complex, on Beach Rd

Malay may be enshrined in the Constitution as the 'national' language, but in practice the most common language is English, spoken by almost every Singaporean under the age of 50 with varying degrees of fluency. English is spoken much better here than in most Asian neighbours. English is also the medium of instruction in schools, except for mother tongue subjects (e.g. Malay, Mandarin and Tamil), which are also required to be learned in school by Singaporeans. In addition, all official signs and documents are written in English, usually using British spelling.

However, the distinctive local patois Singlish may be hard to understand at times, as it incorporates slang words and phrases from other languages, including various Chinese dialects, Malay and Tamil as well as English words whose pronunciation or meaning have been corrupted, and has an odd way of structuring sentences, due to the original speakers being mostly Chinese. Complex consonant clusters are simplified, articles and plurals disappear, verb tenses are replaced by adverbs, questions are altered to fit the Chinese syntax and semirandom particles (especially the infamous "lah") appear:

Singlish: You wan beer or not? -- Dunwan lah, dring five botol oreddi.

English: Do you want a beer? -- No, thanks; I've already had five bottles.

Thanks to nationwide language education campaigns, most younger Singaporeans are, however, capable of speaking what the government calls "good English" when necessary. To avoid unintentional offense, it's best to start off with standard English and shift to simplified pidgin only if it becomes evident that the other person cannot follow you. Try to resist the temptation to sprinkle your speech with unnecessary Singlishisms: you'll get a laugh if you do it right, but it sounds patronizing if you do it wrong. Wikipedia's Singlish [44] article goes into obsessive and occasionally impenetrable grammatical detail, but the sections on vocabulary [45] and abbreviations [46] are handy.

Singapore's other official languages are Mandarin Chinese and Tamil. Mandarin is spoken by most younger Singaporean Chinese while Tamil is spoken by most Indians. Like English, the Mandarin spoken in Singapore has also evolved into a distinctive creole and often incorporates words from other Chinese dialects, Malay and English, though all Singaporean Chinese are taught standard Mandarin in school. Various Chinese dialects (mostly Hokkien, though significant numbers also speak Teochew and Cantonese) are also spoken between ethnic Chinese of the same dialect group, though their use has been declining in the younger generation since the 1980s due to government policies discouraging the use of dialects in favour of Mandarin. Other Indian languages, such as Punjabi among the Sikhs, are also spoken.

The official Chinese script used in Singapore is the simplified script used in mainland China. As such, all official publications (including local newspapers) and signs are in simplified Chinese and all ethnic Chinese are taught to write the simplified script in school. However, the older generations still prefer the traditional style, and the popularity of Hong Kong and Taiwanese pop culture means that even the youth can usually read traditional Chinese.

See

Sights in Singapore are covered in more detail under the various districts. Broadly speaking:

- Beaches and tourist resorts: Head to one of the three beaches on Sentosa or its southern islands. Other beaches can be found on the East Coast.

- Culture and cuisine: See Chinatown for Chinese treats, Little India for Indian flavors, Kampong Glam (Arab St) for a Malay/Arab experience or the East Coast for delicious seafood, including the famous chilli and black pepper crab.

- History and museums: The Bras Basah area east of Orchard and north of the Singapore River is Singapore's colonial core, with historical buildings and museums.

- Nature and wildlife: Popular tourist attractions Singapore Zoo, Night Safari, Jurong Bird Park and the Botanical Gardens are all in the North and West. Finding "real" nature is a little harder, but the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve (located in the same district as the zoo) has more plant species than that in the whole of North America. Pulau Ubin, an island off the Changi Village in the east, is a flashback to the rural Singapore of yesteryear. City parks full of locals jogging or doing tai chi can be found everywhere.

- Skyscrapers and shopping: The heaviest shopping mall concentration is in Orchard Road, while skyscrapers are clustered around the Singapore River, but also check out Bugis and Marina Bay to see where Singaporeans shop.

- Places of worship: Don't miss this aspect of Singapore, where Buddhism, Taoism, Hinduism, Sikhism, Baha'i faith, Christianity, Islam and even Judaism all exist in sizeable numbers. Religious sites can be easily visited and welcome non-followers outside of service times. Particularly worth visiting include: the vast Kong Meng San Phor Kark See Monastery near Ang Mo Kio, the colorful Sri Mariamman Hindu temple in Chinatown, the psychedelic Burmese Buddhist Temple in Balestier and the stately Masjid Sultan in Arab Street.

Itineraries

- Three days in Singapore — A three-day sampler set of food, culture and shopping in Singapore, easily divisible into bite-size chunks.

Travel Tips

If you are traveling to Singapore, be sure to carry the following:

- Sun Glasses - Singapore is usually bright and sunny.

- Umbrella - Be sure to carry an umbrella in your luggage,as there is some precipitation throughout the year. However, the rain does not last long (usually).

- Sun block - If you plan to go out during the day time, it is advisable to apply sun block as it is mostly sunny throughout the year.

- Shorts/Half Pants - Singapore can get real warm. Although air-conditioning is available in all public transports and almost all internal areas, it is advisable to carry some light clothing. Do note that some places of worship may require visitors to dress conservatively.

- Flip-flops - Singaporeans love to wear flip-flops. Be sure to carry a pair, just to blend in. Try sandals if you're not used to flip flops, but beware - in some formal establishments (e.g. catching a show at Esplanade) no flip flops, sandals, or shorts are allowed.

- Sweater - the malls and museums' air conditioning can get cold, though usually this is a welcome relief from the heat.

Do

While you can find a place to practice nearly any sport in Singapore — golfing, surfing, scuba diving, even ice skating and snow skiing — due to the country's small size your options are rather limited and prices are relatively high. For watersports in particular, the busy shipping lanes and sheer population pressure mean that the sea around Singapore is murky, and most locals head up to Tioman (Malaysia) or Bintan (Indonesia) instead. On the upside, there is an abundance of dive shops in Singapore, and they often arrange weekend trips to good dive sites off the East Coast of Malaysia, so they are a good option for accessing some of Malaysia's not-so touristy dive sites.

Culture

On the cultural side of things, Singapore has been trying to shake off its boring, buttoned-down reputation and attract more artists and performances, with mixed success. The star in Singapore's cultural sky is the Esplanade theatre in Marina Bay, a world-class facility for performing arts and a frequent stage for the Singapore Symphony Orchestra. Pop culture options are more limited and Singapore's home-grown arts scene remains rather moribund, although local starlets Stefanie Sun and JJ Lin have had some success in the Chinese pop scene. On the upside, any bands and DJs touring Asia are pretty much guaranteed to perform in Singapore.

Going to the movies is a popular Singaporean pastime, but look for "R21" ratings (21 and up only) if you like your movies with fewer cuts. The big three theatre chains are Cathay [47], Golden Village [48] and Shaw Brothers [49]. Censorship continues to throttle the local film scene, but Jack Neo's popular comedies showcase the foibles of Singaporean life.

In summer, don't miss the yearly Singapore Arts Festival [50]. Advance tickets for almost any cultural event can be purchased from SISTIC [51], either online or from any of their numerous ticketing outlets, including the Singapore Visitor Centre on Orchard Rd.

Gambling

Singapore has two integrated resorts with casinos. Marina Bay Sands at Marina Bay is the larger and swankier of the two, while Resorts World Sentosa at Sentosa aims for a more family-friendly experience. While locals (citizens and permanent residents) have to pay $100/day to get in, foreign visitors can enter for free.

Besides the casino, there are other forms of legalised betting which are more accessible to the locals. This includes horse racing, which is run by the Singapore Turf Club[52] on weekends, as well as football (soccer) betting and several lotteries run by the Singapore Pools[53].

Mahjong is also a popular pastime in Singapore. The version played in Singapore is similar to the Cantonese version, but it also has extra "animal tiles" not present in the original Cantonese version. However, this remains pretty much a family and friends affair, and there are no mahjong parlours.

Golf

Despite its small size, Singapore has a surprisingly large number of golf courses, but most of the best ones are run by private clubs and open to members and their guests only. The main exceptions are the Sentosa Golf Club [54], the famously challenging home of the Barclays Singapore Open, and the Marina Bay Golf Course [55], the only 18-hole public course. See the Singapore Golf Association [56] for the full list; alternatively, head to the nearby Indonesian islands of Batam or Bintan or up north to the Malaysian town of Malacca for cheaper rounds.

Races

The inaugural F1 Singapore Grand Prix [57] was held at night in September 2008, and will be a fixture on the local calendar until at least 2012. Held on a street circuit in the heart of Singapore and raced at night, all but race fans will probably wish to avoid this time, as hotel prices especially room with view of the F1 tracks are through the roof. Tickets start from $150 but the thrilling experience of night race is definitely unforgettable for all F1 fans and photo buffs. Besides being a uniquely night race, the carnival atmosphere and pop concert held around the race ground as well as the convenience of hotels and restaurants round the corner, distinguish the race from other F1 races held remotely away from urban centers.

The Singapore Turf Club[58] in Kranji hosts horse races most Fridays, including a number of international cups, and is popular with local gamblers. The Singapore Polo Club[59] near Balestier is also open to the public on competition days.

Spas

Singapore has recently been experiencing a spa boom, and there is now plenty of choice for everything from holistic Ayurveda to green tea hydrotherapy. However, prices aren't as rock-bottom as in neighbors Indonesia and Thailand, and you'll generally be looking at upwards of $70 even for a plain one-hour massage. Good spas can be found in most 5 star hotels and on Orchard, and Sentosa's Spa Botanica also has a good reputation. There are also numerous shops offering traditional Chinese massage, which are mostly legitimate, and "health centres", which are mostly not.

When looking for beauty salons on Orchard Road, try out the ones on the fourth floor of Lucky Plaza. They offer most salon services like manicures, pedicures, facials, waxing and hair services. A favorite of flight crew and repeat tourists due to the lower costs as compared to the sky high prices of other salons along the shopping belt. Shop around for prices, some of the better looking ones actually charge less.

Swimming

Forget your tiny hotel pool if you are into competitive or recreational swimming: Singapore is paradise for swimmers with arguably the highest density of public pools in the world. They are all open-air 50 m pools (some facilities even feature up to three 50 m pools), accessible for an entrance fee of $1-1.50. Some of the visitors don't swim at all. They just come from nearby housing complexes for a few hours to chill out, read and relax in the sun. Most are open daily from 8AM-9PM, and all feature a small cafe. Just imagine swimming your lanes in the tropical night with lit up palm trees surrounding the pool.

The Singapore Sports Council maintains a list of pools [60], most of which are part of a larger sports complex with gym, tennis courts etc, and are located near the MRT station they're named after. Perhaps the best is in Katong (111 Wilkinson Road, on the East Coast): after the swim, stroll through the villa neighbourhood directly in front of the pool entrance and have at look at the luxurious, original architecture of the houses that really rich Singaporeans live in. If you get bored with regular swimming pools, head to the Jurong East Swimming Complex where you get the wave pool, water slides and Jacuzzi at an insanely affordable entrance fee of $1.50 on weekdays and $2 on weekends. For those who feel richer, visit the Wild Wild Wet[61] water theme park with $16 and get yourself wet with various exciting water slides and powerful tidal wave pool.

For those who don't like pools, head out to the beaches. The East Coast Park has a scenic coastline that stretches over 15 km. It is a popular getaways for Singaporeans to swim, cycle, barbecue and do many other sports activities. The Sentosa island also has three white sandy beaches, each with its own distinct characteristics – Siloso Beach, Palawan Beach and Tanjong Beach.

Water Sports

Besides the more regular water sports such as waterskiing, wakeboarding, windsurfing, canoeing and etc., Singapore also offers water sports fans trendy activities such as cable-Skiing and wave surfing in specially created environments.

Snow Sports

While obviously not the best place on Earth for skiing, sunny Singapore still has a permanent indoor snow centre — Snow City offers visitors to the region a chance to experience winter. Visitors can escape from the hot and humid tropical weather to play with snow or even learn to ski and snowboard with internationally certified professional instructors.

Buy

The Singaporean currency is the Singapore dollar, abbreviated SGD, S$ or just $ (as used throughout this guide), divided into 100 cents. There are coins of $0.05 (gold), $0.10 (silver), $0.20 (silver), $0.50 (silver) and $1 (gold), plus bills of $2 (purple), $5 (green), $10 (red), $50 (blue), $100 (orange), $1000 (purple) and $10000 (gold). The Brunei dollar is pegged at par with the Singapore dollar and the two currencies can be used interchangeably in both countries, so don't be too surprised if you get a Brunei note as change. You can safely assume that the '$' sign used in the island-nation refers to SGD unless it includes other initials (e.g. US$ to stand for US Dollar).

Restaurants often display prices like $19.99++, which means that service charge (10%) and sales tax (7%) are not included and will be added to your bill. When you see NETT, it means it includes all taxes and service charges. Tipping is generally not practised in Singapore, and is officially frowned upon by the government, although bellhops still expect $2 or so per bag. Taxis will usually return your change to the last cent, or round in your favor if they can't be bothered to dig for change.

ATMs are ubiquitous in Singapore and credit cards are widely accepted (although some shops may levy a 3% surcharge, and taxis a whopping 15%). Travelers checks are generally not accepted by retailers, but can be cashed at most exchange booths. eZ-Link and Nets Flash Pay cards are accepted in some convenience stores and fast food chains.

Currency exchange booths can be found in every shopping mall and usually offer better rates, better opening hours and much faster service than banks. The huge 24 hr operation at Mustafa in Little India accepts almost any currency at very good rates, as do the fiercely competitive small shops at the aptly named Change Alley next to Raffles Place MRT. For large amounts, ask for a quote, as it will often get you a better rate than displayed on the board. Rates at the airport are not as good as in the city, and while many department stores accept major foreign currencies, their rates are often terrible.

Costs

Singapore is expensive by Asian standards but cheap for visitors from most industrialised countries: $50 is a perfectly serviceable daily backpacker budget if you are willing to cut some corners, though you would probably wish to double that for comfort. Food in particular is a steal, with excellent hawker food available for under $5 for a generous serving. Accommodation is a little pricier, but a bed in a hostel can cost less than $20, an average 3-4 star hotel in the city centre would typically cost anywhere from $100-$300 per night for a basic room, and the most luxurious hotels on the island (except maybe the Raffles) can be yours for $300 with the right discounts during the off-peak season.

Budget travellers should note that Singapore is much more expensive than the rest of Southeast Asia and should budget accordingly if planning to spend time in Singapore. In general, prices in Singapore are about twice as high as in Malaysia and Thailand and 3-5 times as high as in Indonesia and the Philippines.

Shopping

Cheated?

Ripped off by a shop? Give the Singapore Tourism Board's free hotline at 1800 736-2000. The Small Claims Tribunal at 1 Havelock Sq also has a special expedited process for tourists that can solve simple cases within 24 hours.

Shopping is second only to eating as a national pastime, which means that Singapore has an abundance of shopping malls, and low taxes and tariffs on imports coupled with huge volume mean that prices are usually very competitive. While you won't find any bazaars with dirt-cheap local handicrafts (in fact, virtually everything sold in Singapore is made elsewhere), goods are generally of reasonably good quality and shopkeepers are generally quite honest due to strong consumer protection laws. Most stores are open 7 days a week from 10AM-10PM, although smaller operations (particularly those outside shopping malls) close earlier — 7PM is common — and perhaps on Sundays as well. Mustafa in Little India is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Keep an eye out for the Great Singapore Sale [62], usually held in June-July, when shopping centres pull out all stops to attract punters. Many stores along the shopping belt of Orchard Road and Scotts Road now offer late night shopping on the last Friday of every month with over 250 retailers staying open till midnight.

- Antiques: The second floor of the Tanglin Shopping Centre on Orchard and the shops on South Bridge Rd in Chinatown are good options if looking for the real thing (or high-quality reproductions).

- Books: Borders at Wheelock Place and Kinokuniya at Ngee Ann City, both on Orchard, and Page One at Vivocity are amongst the largest bookstores in Singapore. Many second-hand bookstores are located in Far East Plaza and Bras Basah Complex, where you may attempt to bargain if you are buying a lot. For university textbooks, the bookshops at the National University of Singapore has the best prices on the island, up to 80% off compared to prices in the West.

- Cameras: Peninsula Plaza near City Hall has Singapore's best selection of camera shops. However, there are no great bargains to be had, and many camera stores in Singapore (particularly those in Lucky Plaza and Sim Lim Square) have a reputation for fleecing unwary tourists. The best way is to know what you are looking for and then when you arrive, drop by the shops at the airport's transit area and take a look at the price and check with them whether they have any promotions. Then go to the downtown shops and compare prices/ packages to see which shop will give you value for money.

- Clothes, high-street: Ion, Ngee Ann City (Takashimaya) and Paragon on Orchard have the heaviest concentration of branded boutiques.

- Clothes, tailored: Virtually all hotels have a tailor shop attached, and touting tailors are a bit of a nuisance in Chinatown. As elsewhere, you'll get what you pay for and will get poor quality if you don't have the time for multiple fittings or the skill to check what you're getting. Prices vary widely: a local shop using cheap fabrics can do a shirt for $40, while Singapore's best-known tailor, CYC the Custom Shop [63] at the Raffles Hotel, will charge at least $120.

- Clothes, youth: Most of Bugis is dedicated to the young, hip and cost-conscious. Some spots of Orchard, notably Far East Plaza and the top floor of the Heeren, also target the same market but prices are generally higher. The basements of both Wisma Atria and Ngee Ann City also have loads of options for the young.

- Computers: Sim Lim Square (near Little India) is great for the hardcore geek who really knows what he's after, but lesser mortals run a risk of getting ripped off and are better off shopping at Funan IT Mall. Challenger [64] is a local chain that provides a great one-stop option for computer and other electronic (but mostly computer) products, with eight locations across the island, the largest and most central being on the 6th floor of Funan. If you plan on buying a lot, the $30 membership card may pay off.

- Consumer electronics: Very competitively priced in Singapore. Funan IT Mall (Riverside#Buy|Riverside), Sim Lim Square and Mustafa (Little India) are good choices. Avoid the tourist-oriented shops on Orchard Road, particularly the notorious Lucky Plaza, or risk getting ripped off. Australian retailer Harvey Norman also has many stores scattered throughout Singapore. Check out the massive Harvey Norman Mega Superstore at Millenia Walk. For any purchases, remember that Singapore uses 230V voltage with a British-style three-pin plug.

- Electronic components: For do-it-yourself people and engineers, a wide variety of electronic components and associated tools can be found at Sim Lim Tower (opposite Sim Lim Square), near Little India. You can find most common electronic components (such as breadboards, transistors, various IC's, etc.) and bargain for larger quantities as well.

- Ethnic knick-knacks: Chinatown has Singapore's heaviest concentration of glow-in-the-dark Merlion soap dispensers and ethnic gewgaws, mostly but not entirely Chinese and nearly all imported from somewhere else. For Malay and Indian stuff, the best places to shop are Geylang Serai and Little India respectively.

- Fabrics: Arab Street and Little India have a good selection of imported and local fabrics like batik.

- Fakes: Unlike most South-East Asian countries, pirated goods are not openly on sale and importing them to the city-state carries heavy fines. Fake goods are nevertheless not difficult to find in Little India, Bugis, or even in the underpasses of Orchard Road.

- Food: Local supermarkets Cold Storage and NTUC Fairprice are ubiquitous, but for specialties, Jason's Marketplace in the basement of Raffles City and Tanglin Market Place at Tanglin Mall (both on Orchard) are some of Singapore's best-stocked gourmet supermarkets, with a vast array of imported products. Takashimaya's basement (Orchard) has lots of small quirky shops and makes for a more interesting browse. For a more Singaporean (and much cheaper) shopping experience, seek out any neighborhood wet market, like Little India's Tekka Market.

- Games: Video and PC games are widely available in Singapore, and prices are usually cheaper than in the West. Games sold for the local market are generally in English, and though some games imported from Hong Kong or Taiwan would be in Chinese. Do note, however, that Singapore's official region code is NTSC-J (together with Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong etc.), which means that games sold may not be compatible with consoles in mainland China, North America, Europe or Australia.

- Hi-fi stereos: The Adelphi (Riverside) has Singapore's best selection of audiophile shops.

- Marine sports: Many of the shophouses opposite The Concourse on Beach Rd in Bugis sell fishing and scuba diving gear.

- Mobile phones: Very competitively priced in Singapore due to high consumer volume, available throughout the country both used and new. Phones are never SIM locked, so they can be used anywhere, and many shops will allow you to "trade in" an older phone to offset the cost of a new one.

- Music: The HMV at Somerset 313 (Orchard) is Singapore's largest music store, with a second, smaller outlet in the CityLink mall linking Raffles City and Suntec City Mall. Gramophone, however, provides much better prices on CDs and has an interesting selection. Numerous branches are scattered across the CBD and Orchard Road. One of the better Gramophone locations is at Ngee Ann City in B2.

- Peranakan goods: The Peranakan, or Malay-Chinese, may be fading but their colorful clothing and artwork, especially the distinctive pastel-colored ceramics, are still widely available. Antiques are expensive, but modern replicas are quite affordable. The largest selection and best prices can be found in Katong on the East Coast.

- Sports goods: Queensway Shopping Centre, off Alexandra Rd and rather off the beaten track (take a cab), seems to consist of nothing but sports goods shops. You can also find foreigner-sized sporty clothing and shoes here. Do bargain! Expect to get 40-50% off the price from the shops in Orchard for the same items. Velocity in Novena is also devoted to sports goods, but is rather more upmarket. Martial arts equipment is surprisingly hard to find, although most of the clothing shops around Pagoda Street in Chinatown sell basic silk taiji/wushu uniforms. Note that if you plan to buy weapons such as swords, you have to apply for a permit from the local police (around $10) to get your weaponry out of the country.

- Tea: Chinatown's Yue Hwa (2nd floor) is unbeatable for both price and variety, but Time for Tea in Lucky Plaza (Orchard) is also a good option. English tea is also widely available around Orchard Road, most notably at Marks and Spencer in Centrepoint.

- Watches: High-end watches are very competitively priced. Ngee Ann City (Orchard) has dedicated stores from the likes of Piaget and Cartier, while Millenia Walk (Marina Bay) features the Cortina Watch Espace retailing 30 brands from Audemars Piguet to Patek Philippe, as well as several other standalone shops.

For purchases of over $100 per day per participating shop, you may be able to get a refund of your 7% GST at Changi Airport or Seletar Airport, but the process is a bit of a bureaucratic hassle. See Singapore Customs [65] for the full scoop.

Eat

This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including soft drink:

Budget

Under $10

Mid-range

$10-30

Splurge

Over $30

Singapore is a melting pot of cuisines from around the world, and many Singaporeans are obsessive gourmands who love to makan ("eat" in Malay). You will find quality Chinese, Malay, Indian, Japanese, Thai, Italian, French, American and other food in this city-state.

Eating habits run the gamut, but most foods are eaten by fork and spoon: push and cut with the fork in the left hand, and eat with the spoon in the right. Noodles and Chinese dishes typically come with chopsticks, while Malay and Indian food can be eaten by hand, but nobody will blink an eye if you ask for a fork and spoon instead. If eating by hand, always use your right hand to pick your food, as Malays and Indians traditionally use their left hand to handle dirty things. Take note of the usual traditional Chinese etiquette when using chopsticks, and most importantly, do not stick your chopsticks vertically into a bowl of rice. If eating in a group, serving dishes are always shared, but you'll get your own bowl of rice and soup. It's common to use your own chopsticks to pick up food from communal plates, but serving spoons can be provided on request.

Keep an eye out for the Singapore Food Festival [66], held every year in July. During the last three festivals, all visitors to Singapore smart enough to ask for them at any tourist information desk received coupons for free chilli crab, no strings attached!

Local delicacies

Singapore is justly famous for its food, a unique mix of Malay, Chinese, Indian and Western elements. The following is only a brief sampler of the most popular dishes.

A plate of chilli crab

Katong laksa, with chilli paste and chopped laksa leaf in a spoon

Satay with peanut sauce, onions and cucumber

PeranakanorNonya cuisine

Culinary borrowings

Many regional terms and the odd euphemism tend to crop up in notionally English menus. A few of the more common ones:

assam

tamarind (Malay)

bee hoon

thin rice noodles (Hokkien 米粉)

garoupa

grouper, a type of fish (Portuguese)

gonggong

a type of conch (Chinese)

hor fun

very wide, flat rice noodles (Cantonese 河粉)

kangkung

water spinach, an aquatic vegetable (Malay)

kway teow

flat rice noodles (Hokkien 粿条)

lengkuas

blue ginger (Malay)

mee

thick egg noodles (Hokkien 面)

serai

lemon grass (Malay)

sotong

squid/cuttlefish (Malay)

spare parts

offal such as liver, heart, gizzard

tang hoon

thin, transparent starch noodles (Hokkien 冬粉)

The most identifiable cuisine in the region is Peranakan or Nonya cuisine, born from the mixed Malay and Chinese communities of what were once the British colonies of the Straits Settlements (modern-day Singapore, Penang and Malacca).

- Chilli crab is a whole crab ladled with oodles of sticky, tangy chilli sauce. It's spicy at first, but the more you eat, the better it gets. Notoriously difficult to eat, so don't wear a white shirt: just dig in with your hands and ignore the mess. The seafood restaurants of the East Coast are famous for this. For a less messy but equally tasty alternative, ask for black pepper crab.

- Kaya is a jam-like spread made from egg and coconut, an odd-sounding but tasty combination. Served on toast for breakfast, canonically accompanied by runny eggs and strong, sweet coffee (kopi). Exists in two distinctive styles; the greenish Nonya version, colored with pandan leaf, and the brownish Hainanese version.

- Laksa, in particular the Katong or lemak style, is probably the best known Singaporean dish: a fragrant soup of noodles in a coconut-based curry broth, topped with cockles or shrimp. Singapore laksa is very different from Penang laksa which is made with a tamarind-infused broth instead of coconut, and has a spicy sourish taste.

- Mee siam is rice flour noodles served with sour gravy made from tamarind, dried shrimp and fermented beans. Usually served with bean curd cubes and hard boiled eggs. Though the Chinese, Malays and Indians all have their own versions, it is the Peranakan version that is most popular with Singaporeans.

- Popiah or spring rolls come fresh or fried. They consist of a filling of boiled turnip, fried tofu, pork, shrimp with a slew of condiments, wrapped in a thin crepe and eaten like a fajita.

- Rojak means a mixture of everything in Malay, and there are two very different types. Chinese rojak is a salad of pineapple, white turnip, cucumber, tau pok (fried bean curd) with thin tiny slices of bunga kantan (torch ginger flower buds), tossed in shrimp paste sauce and sugar, then sprinkled with crushed peanuts. Indian rojak consists of mainly fried fritters made from flour and various pulses with cucumber and tofu, with sweet & spicy sauces.

- Satay bee hoon is rice vermicelli (bee hoon) served with the same peanut and chilli sauce used for satay, hence the name. Usually see hum (cockles), dried squid and pork slices are added in.

- Ice cream is just as it is in Western countries. However, in Singapore, there are various local flavours such as durian and red bean which are not available outside the region and are certainly worth a try. To impress the locals, try asking for ice cream in roti (bread).

Besides these dishes, the Peranakans are also known or their kueh or snacks which are somewhat different from the Malay versions due to stronger Chinese influences.

Malay cuisine

The Malays were Singapore's original inhabitants and despite now being outnumbered by the Chinese, their distinctive cuisine is popular to this day. Characterized by heavy use of spices, most Malay dishes are curries, stews or dips of one kind or another and nasi padang restaurants, offering a wide variety of these to ladle onto your rice, are very popular.

- Mee rebus is a dish of egg noodles with spicy, slightly sweet gravy, a slice of hard boiled egg and lime.

- Mee soto is Malay-style chicken soup, with a clear broth, shredded chicken breast and egg noodles.

- Nasi lemak is the definitive Malay breakfast, consisting at its simplest of rice cooked in light coconut milk, some ikan bilis (anchovies), peanuts, a slice of cucumber and a dab of chilli on the side. A larger fried fish or chicken wing are common accompaniments. More often than not, also combined with a variety of curries and/or sambal (see below).

- Otah/Otak is a type of fish cake made of minced fish (usually mackerel), coconut milk, chilli and various other spices, and grilled in a banana or coconut leaf, usually served to accompany other dishes like nasi lemak.

- Rendang, occasionally dubbed "dry curry", is meat stewed for hours on end in a spicy (but rarely fiery) coconut-based curry paste until almost all water is absorbed. Beef rendang is the most common, although chicken and mutton are spotted sometimes.

- Sambal is the generic term for chilli sauces of many kinds. Sambal belacan is a common condiment made by mixing chilli with the shrimp paste belacan, while the popular dish sambal sotong consists of squid (sotong) cooked in red chilli sauce.

- Satay are barbecued skewers of meat, typically chicken, mutton or beef. What separates satay from your ordinary kebab is the spices used to season the meat and the slightly spicy peanut-based dipping sauce. The Satay Club at Lau Pa Sat near Raffles Place is one popular location for this delicacy.

Malay desserts, especially the sweet pastries and jellies (kuih or kueh) made largely from coconut and palm sugar (gula melaka), bear a distinct resemblance to those of Thailand. But in the sweltering tropical heat, try one of many concoctions made with ice instead:

- Bubur cha-cha consists of cubed yam, sweet potato and sago added into coconut milk soup. This can be served warm or cold.

- Chendol is made with green pea noodles, kidney beans, palm sugar and coconut milk.

- Durian is not exactly a dish, but a local fruit with distinctive odor you can smell a mile away and a sharp thorny husk. Both smell and taste defy description, but eating garlic ice cream next to an open sewer comes to mind. If you are game enough you should try it, but be warned beforehand — you will either love it or hate it. The rich creamy yellow flesh is often sold in places like Geylang and Bugis and elsewhere conveniently in pre-packaged packs, for anywhere from $1 for a small fruit all the way up to $24/kg depending on the season and type of durian. This 'king of fruits' is also made into ice cream, cakes, sweets, puddings and other decadent desserts. Note: You're not allowed to carry durians on the MRT and buses and they're banned from many hotels.

- Ice kachang literally means "ice bean" in Malay, a good clue to the two major ingredients: shaved ice and sweet red beans. However, more often than not you'll also get gula melaka (palm sugar), grass jelly, sweet corn, attap palm seeds and anything else on hand thrown in, and the whole thing is then drizzled with canned evaporated milk or coconut cream and colored syrups. The end result tastes very interesting — and refreshing.

- Kuih (or kueh) refer to a plethora of steamed or baked "cakes", mostly made with coconut milk, grated coconut flesh, glutinous rice or tapioca. They are often very colorful and cut into fanciful shapes, but despite their wildly varying appearance tend to taste rather similar.

- Pisang goreng is a batter-dipped and deep-fried banana.

Chinese cuisine

Bak kut teh with rice and you tiao fritters

Hainanese chicken rice

Fried hokkien mee

Prawn mee and pork rib soup

Chinese food as eaten in Singapore commonly originates from southern China, particularly Fujian and Guangdong. While "authentic" fare is certainly available, especially in fancier restaurants, the daily fare served in hawker centres has absorbed a number of tropical touches, most notably the fairly heavy use of chilli and the Malay fermented shrimp paste belacan as condiments. Noodles can also be served not just in soup (湯 tang), but also "dry" (干 kan), meaning that your noodles will be served tossed with chilli and spices in one bowl, and the soup will come in a separate bowl.

- Bak chor mee（肉脞面）is essentially noodles with minced pork, tossed in a chilli-based sauce with lard, ikan bilis (fried anchovies), vegetables and mushrooms. Black vinegar may also be added.

- Bak kut teh (肉骨茶), lit. "pork bone tea", is a simple-sounding soup of pork ribs simmered for hours in broth until they're ready to fall off the bone. Singaporeans prefer the light and peppery Teochew style, but a few shops offer the original dark and aromatic Fujian kind. Bak kut teh is typically eaten with white rice, mui choy (pickled vegetables) and a pot of strong Chinese tea, hence the name — the broth itself doesn't contain any tea. To impress the locals, order some you tiao fritters from a nearby stall and cut them up into bite-sized chunks to dip into your soup.

- Char kway teow (炒粿条) is the quintessential Singapore-style fried noodle dish, consisting of several types of noodles in thick brown sauce with strips of fishcake, Chinese sausage, a token veggie or two and either cockles and shrimp. It's cheap ($2-3/serve), filling and has nothing to do with the dish known as "Singapore fried noodles" elsewhere! (And which actually doesn't exist in Singapore.)

- Chee cheong fun (豬腸粉) is a favorite breakfast consisting of lasagna-type rice noodles rolled up and various types of fried meats including fishballs and fried tofu. The dish is usually topped with a generous amount of sauce.

- Chwee kway （水粿） is a dish consisting of rice cakes topped with chai po (salted fermented turnips), usually served with some chilli sauce.

- Fish ball noodles　(魚丸面) come in many forms, but the type most often seen is mee pok, which consists of flat egg noodles tossed in chilli sauce, with the fishballs floating in a separate bowl of soup on the side.

- Hainanese chicken rice (海南鸡饭) is steamed ("white") or roasted ("red") chicken flavoured with soy sauce and sesame oil served on a bed of fragrant rice that has been cooked in chicken broth and flavoured with ginger and garlic. Often accompanied by chilli sauce made from crushed fresh chillis, ginger, garlic and thick dark soy sauce as well as some cucumber and a small bowl of chicken broth.

- Hokkien mee (福建面) is a style of soupy fried noodles in light, fragrant stock with prawns and other seafood. Oddly, it bears little resemblance to the Kuala Lumpur dish of the same name, which uses thick noodles in dark soy, or even the Penang version, which is served in very spicy soup.

- Kway chap (粿汁) is essentially sheets made of rice flour served in a brown stock, accompanied by a plate of braised pork and pig organs (tongue, ear and intestines).

- Prawn noodles (虾面, hei mee in Hokkien) is a prawn-based dark brown soup served with noodles and a giant tiger prawn or two on top. Some stalls will serve it with boiled pork ribs as well.

- Steamboat (火锅), also known as hot pot, is do-it-yourself soup Chinese style. You get a pot of broth bubbling on a tabletop burner, pick meat, fish and veggies to your liking from a menu or buffet table, then cook it to your liking. When finished, add in noodles or ask for rice to fill you up. This usually requires a minimum of two people, and the more the merrier.

- Wonton mee (云吞面) is thin noodles topped with wantan dumplings of seasoned minced pork. Unlike the soupy Hong Kong version, it is usually served dry.

- Yong tau foo (酿豆腐) literally means "fermented tofu", but it's more exciting than it sounds. The diner selects their favorites from a vast assortment of tofu, fish paste, assorted seafood and vegetables, and they are then sliced into bite-size pieces, cooked briefly in boiling water and then served either in broth as soup or "dry" with the broth in a separate bowl. The dish can be eaten by itself or with any choice of noodles. Essential accompaniments are spicy chili sauce and sweet sauce for dipping.

Indian cuisine

The smallest of the area's minorities, the Indians have had proportionally the smallest impact on the local culinary scene, but there is no shortage of Indian food even at many hawker centres. Delicious and authentic Indian food can be had at Little India, including south Indian typical meals such as dosa (thosai) crepes, idli lentil-rice cakes and sambar soup, as well as north Indian meals including various curries, naan bread, tandoori chicken and more. In addition, however, a number of Indian dishes have been "Singaporeanized" and adopted by the entire population, including:

- Fish head curry is, true to the name, a gigantic curried fish head cooked whole until it's ready to fall apart. The head itself is not eaten, as there's plenty of meat to be found inside and all around. Singapore's Little India is the place to sample this. Note that there are two distinct styles, the fiery Indian and the milder Chinese kind.

- Nasi briyani is rice cooked in turmeric, giving it an orange colour. Unlike the Hyderabadi original, it's usually rather bland, although specialist shops do turn out more flavorful versions. It is usually served with curry chicken and some Indian crackers.

- Roti prata is the local version of paratha, flat bread tossed in the air like pizza, rapidly cooked in oil, and eaten dipped in curry. Modern-day variations can incorporate unorthodox ingredients like cheese, chocolate and even ice cream, but some canonical versions include roti kosong (plain), roti telur (with egg) and murtabak (layered with chicken, mutton or fish). Strict vegetarians beware: unlike Indian roti, roti prata batter is usually made with eggs.

- Putu mayam is a sweet dessert composed of vermicelli-like noodles topped with shredded coconut and orange sugar.

Hawker centres

Social welfare Singapore style

One thing notably absent from Singaporean cheap eateries is any form of napkins or tissues. The solution to the mystery is in Singapore's lack of government welfare: instead, every hawker centre has a resident invalid or two, who make a living by selling tissues ($1 for a few packets).

The cheapest and most popular places to eat in Singapore are hawker centres, essentially former pushcart vendors directed into giant complexes by government fiat. Prices are low ($2-5 for most dishes), hygiene standards are high (every stall is required to prominently display a health certificate grading it from A to D) and the food can be excellent — if you see a queue, join it! Ambience tends to be a little lacking though and there is no air-conditioning either, but a visit to a hawker centre is a must when in Singapore. However, be leery of overzealous pushers-cum-salesmen, especially at the Satay Club in Lau Pa Sat and Newton Food Centre at Newton Circus: the tastiest stalls don't need high-pressure tactics to find customers. Touting for business is illegal, and occasionally a reminder of this can result in people backing off a bit.

To order, first chope (reserve) a table by parking a friend by the table, note the table's number, then place your order at your stall of choice. Employees deliver to your table, and you pay when you get the food. Note that some stalls (particularly very popular ones) have signs stating "self-service", meaning that you're expected to get your food yourself, but if it is quiet or you are sitting nearby, they will usually deliver anyway. At almost every stall you can also opt to take away (called "packet" or ta pao (打包) in Cantonese), in which case employees pack up your order in a plastic box/bag and even throw in disposable utensils. Once you are finished, just get up and go, as tables are cleared by hired cleaners.

Every district in Singapore has its own hawker centres and prices decrease as you move out into the boonies. For tourists, centrally located Newton Circus (Newton MRT), Gluttons Bay and Lau Pa Sat (near the River), are the most popular options — but this does not make them the cheapest or the tastiest, and the demanding gourmand would do well to head to Chinatown or the heartlands instead. Many of the best food stalls are located in residential districts away from the tourist trail and do not advertise in the media, so the best way to find them is to ask locals for their recommendations. And if you miss western food, Botak Jones [67] in several hawker centers offer reasonably authentic and generously sized American-restaurant style meals at hawker prices.

Coffee shops

Coffee, see, and tea, oh!

Coffee and tea in hawker centres and kopitiam goes for under a dollar a cup, a steep discount on Starbucks prices, but you'll need to learn the lingo to get what you want. If you order just kopi (the Malay word for "coffee") or teh (Hokkien for "tea") in Singapore, it will definitely be served with a heaped spoonful of sugar, and more often than not with a squirt of sweet condensed milk. Kopi-C or teh-C substitutes unsweetened evaporated milk, while kopi-O or teh-O makes sure it's served with no milk. To get rid of the sugar, you need to ask for it kosong ("plain"), but if you want a plain black cup of joe, you need to ask for kopi-O kosong! If you want your drink cold, just add a peng to the end of the drink name, eg. kopi-O-peng, teh-peng, teh-C-peng, Milo-peng etc. and it will be served with ice.

Despite the name, coffee shops or kopitiam sell much more than coffee — they are effectively mini-hawker centres with perhaps only half a dozen stalls (one of which will, however, sell coffee and other drinks). The Singaporean equivalent of pubs, this is where folks come for the canonical Singaporean breakfast of kopi (strong, sugary coffee), some kaya (egg-coconut jam) toast and runny eggs, and this is also where they come to down a beer or two and chat away in the evenings. English proficiency can somtimes be limited, but most stall owners know enough to communicate the basics, and even if they don't, nearby locals will usually help you out if you ask. Many coffee shops offer zi char/cze cha (煮炒) for dinner, meaning a menu of local dishes, mostly Chinese-style seafood, served at your table at mid-range prices.

The usual Starbucks and other local cafe chains such as Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf can be found in any shopping mall but an iced coffee or tea can put you back $5 and up, whereas a teh tarik ("pulled" milky tea) or kopi coffee runs closer to $1 at any hawker centre.

Food courts

Found in the basement or top floor of nearly every shopping mall, food courts are the gentrified, air-conditioned version of hawker centres. The variety of food on offer is almost identical, but prices are on average $1-3 higher (depending on the area, it is slightly more expensive in tourist intensive areas) and the quality is usually lower.

Fast food

International fast food chains like McDonald's, Carl's Jr., Burger King, KFC, MOS Burger, Dairy Queen, Orange Julius, Subway etc are commonly found in various shopping malls. Prices range from $2 for a basic burger and $5 upwards for a set meal. All restaurants are self-service and clearing your table after your meal is optional. In addition to the usual suspects, look out for these uniquely Singaporean brands:

- Bengawan Solo, [68]. Singapore version of Indonesian cakes, Chinese pastries and everything in between. The name is taken from the name of a famous river in Java.

- BreadTalk, [69]. This self-proclaimed "designer bread" chain has taken not just Singapore but much of South-East Asia by storm. Everything is jazzily shaped, funkily named (eg. Crouching Tiger, Hidden Bacon) and baked on premises. Just note that, to the Western palate, almost everything is rather sweet.

- Jollibean, [70]. Fresh soy drinks, beancurd and tasty mee chiang kueh Chinese pancakes.

- Killiney Kopitiam, [71]. Serves kaya toast, kopi and ginger tea (with ice or without); waiters at the original Somerset location shout your order towards the back with gusto.

- Mr Bean, [72]. Offers a variety of soya bean drinks, ice-creams and pastries snacks.

- Old Chang Kee, [73]. Famous for their curry puffs, but their range now covers anything and everything deep-fried. Take-away only.

- Ya Kun Kaya Toast, [74]. Serves the classic Singaporean breakfast all day long: kaya toast, runny eggs and strong, sweet coffee (plus some other drinks). Arguably one of the more successful chains with branches in as far as South Korea and Japan.

Restaurants

Kee-ping up with the Lims

Ever wonder why every other Chinese hawker stall and restaurant in Singapore has a name that ends in Kee? The answer is simple: the character kee (记) is Chinese for "brand" or "mark", and is used much like the trademark symbol in the West. A name like Yan Kee thus means "run by the Yan family", and should not be taken as a political statement!

Singapore offers a wide variety of full-service restaurants as well, catering to every taste and budget.

As the majority of Singapore's population is ethnic Chinese, there is an abundance of Chinese restaurants in Singapore, mainly serving southern Chinese (mostly Hokkien, Teochew or Cantonese) cuisines, though with the large number of expatriates and foreign workers from China these days, cuisine originating from Shanghai and further north is also not hard to find. As with Chinese restaurants anywhere, food is eaten with chopsticks and served with Chinese tea. While Chinese restaurant food is certainly closer to authentic Chinese fare than hawker food is, it too has not managed to escape local influences and you can find many dishes little seen in China. Depending on where you go and what you order, prices can vary greatly. In ordinary restaurants, prices usually start from $20-30 per person, while in top end restaurants in five-star hotels, prices can go as high as more than $300 per person if you order delicacies such as abalone, suckling pig and lobster.

Being a maritime city, one common specialty is seafood restaurants, offering Chinese-influenced Singaporean classics like chilli crabs. These are much more fun to go to in a group, but be careful what you order: gourmet items like Sri Lankan giant crab or shark's fin can easily push your bill up to hundreds of dollars. Menus typically say "Market price", and if you ask they'll quote you the price per 100 g, but a big crab can easily top 2 kilos. The best-known seafood spots are clustered on the East Coast, but for ambience the riverside restaurants at Boat Quay and Clarke Quay can't be beat.

Singapore also has its share of good Western restaurants, with British and American influenced food being a clear favourite among locals. Most of the more affordable chains are concentrated around Orchard Road and prices start from around $10-20 per person for the main course. French, Italian, Japanese and Korean food is also readily available, though prices tend to be on the expensive side, while Thai and Indonesian restaurants tend to be more affordable.

One British import much beloved by Singaporeans is high tea. In the classical form, as served up by finer hotels across the island, this is a light afternoon meal consisting of tea and a wide array of British-style savoury snacks and sweet pastries like finger sandwiches and scones. However, the term is increasingly used for afternoon buffets of any kind, and Chinese dim sum and various Singaporean dishes are common additions. Prices vary, but you'll usually be looking at $20-30 per head. Note that many restaurants only serve high tea on weekends, and hours may be very limited: the famous spread at the Raffles Hotel's Tiffin Room, for example, is only available between 3:30PM-5PM.

Singaporeans are big on buffets, especially international buffets offering a wide variety of dishes including Western, Chinese and Japanese as well as some local dishes at a fixed price. Popular chains include Sakura [75], Pariss [76], Vienna [77] and Todai [78].

Most hotels also offer lunch and dinner buffets. Champagne brunches on Sundays are particularly popular, but you can expect to pay over $100 per head and popular spots, like Mezza9 at the Hyatt on Orchard, will require reservations.

Fine Dining

While Singapore has previously described as a place with excellent casual dining but a lack of fine dining options, the opening of the two casinos have led to several of the world's top chefs opening branches of their restaurant at the integrated resorts. Prices are generally what you would expect for eating at a fine dining restaurant in the West.

Dietary restrictions

Singapore is an easy place to eat for almost everybody. Many Indians and not a few Chinese Buddhists are strictly vegetarian, so every Indian stall will have a number of veggie options and most hawker centres will have a Chinese vegetarian stall or two, often serving up amazing meat imitations made from gluten. Chinese vegetarian food traditionally does not use eggs or dairy products and is thus almost always vegan; Indian vegetarian food, however, often employs cheese and other milk products. Be on your guard in ordinary Chinese restaurants though, as even dishes that appear vegetarian on the menu may contain seafood products like oyster sauce or salted fish — check with the waiter if in doubt.

Muslims should look out for halal certificates issued by MUIS, the Islamic Religious Council of Singapore. This is found at practically every Malay stall and many Indian Muslim operations too, but more rarely on outlets run by the Chinese, few of whom are Muslims. That said, the popular Banquet [79] chain of food courts is entirely halal and an excellent choice for safely sampling halal Chinese food. Many, if not all, of the Western fast-food chains in Singapore use halal meat: look for a certificate around the ordering area, or ask a manager if in doubt. A few restaurants skimp on the formal certification and simply put up "no pork, no lard" signs; it's your call if this is good enough for you.

Jews, on the other hand, will have a harder time as kosher food is nearly unknown in Singapore. Nevertheless, kosher food is still available near Singapore's two synagogues at Oxley Rise and Waterloo Street in the Central Business District; check with the Jewish Welfare Board [80] for details.

Celiac disease is relatively unheard of in Singapore, so don't expect to find information on menus about whether dishes contain gluten or not. A few exceptions to this include Cedele [81] and Barracks @ House [82].

Drink

Singapore's nightlife isn't quite a match for Patpong, but it's no slouch either. Some clubs have 24 hr licenses and few places close before 3AM. Any artist touring Asia are pretty much guaranteed to stop in Singapore, with superclub Zouk in particular regularly clocking high on lists of the world's best nightclubs. Singapore's nightlife is largely concentrated along the three Quays — Boat, Clarke and Robertson — of the Riverside, with the clubs of Sentosa and nearby St James Power Station giving party animals even more reason to dance the night away. Gay bars are mostly found around Chinatown. Drinking age is 18, and while this is surprisingly loosely enforced, some clubs have higher age limits.

Friday is generally the biggest night of the week for going out, with Saturday a close second. Sunday is gay night in many bars and clubs, while Wednesday or Thursday is ladies' night, often meaning not just free entrance but free drinks for women. Most clubs are closed on Monday and Tuesday, while bars generally stay open but tend to be very quiet.

For a night out Singapore style, gather a group of friends and head for the nearest karaoke box — major chains include K-Box [83] and Party World. Room rental ranges from $30/hour and up. Beware that the non-chain, glitzy (or dodgy) looking, neon-covered KTV lounges may charge much higher rates and the short-skirted hostesses may offer more services than just pouring your drinks. In Singapore, the pronunciation of karaoke follows the Japanese "karah-oh-kay" instead of the Western "carry-oh-key".

Alcohol

Alcohol is widely available but very expensive due to Singapore's heavy sin taxes. On the other hand, tax-free at Changi Airport has some of the best prices in the world. You can bring in up to one litre each of liquor, wine and beer if you arrive from countries other than Malaysia. Careful shopping at major supermarkets will also throw up common basic Australian wine labels for under $20.

While most Singaporeans are not puritanical and enjoy a drink every now and then, do not expect to find the binge-drinking culture that you will find in most Western countries. Unlike in most Western countries, public drunkedness in socially frowned upon in Singapore, and misbehaving yourself under the influence of alcohol will certainly not gain you any respect from Singaporean friends. Do not allow any confrontations to escalate into fights, as the police will be called in, and you will face jailtime and possibly caning.

Prices when eating out vary. You can enjoy a large bottle of beer of your choice at a coffee shop or hawker center for less than $6 (and the local colour comes thrown in for free). On the other hand, drinks in any bar, club or fancy restaurant remain extortionate, with a basic drink clocking in at $10-15 while fancy cocktails would usually be in the $15-25 range. On the upside, happy hours and two-for-one promotions are common, and the entry price for clubs usually includes several drink tickets. Almost all restaurants in Singapore allow bringing your own (BYO) wine and cheaper restaurants without a wine menu usually don't even charge corkage, although in these places you'll need to bring your own bottle opener and glasses. Fancier places charge $20-50, although many offer free corkage days on Monday or Tuesday.

Tourists flock to the Long Bar in the Raffles Hotel to sample the original Singapore Sling, a sickly sweet pink mix of pineapple juice, gin and more, but locals (almost) never touch the stuff. The tipple of choice in Singapore is the local beer, Tiger, a rather ordinary lager, but there's been a recent microbrewery boom with Archipelago (Boat Quay), Brewerkz (Riverside Point), Paulaner Brauhaus (Millenia Walk) and Pump Room (Clarke Quay) all offering interesting alternatives.

Tobacco

Tobacco is heavily taxed, and you are not allowed to bring more than one opened pack (not carton, but a single pack!) of cigarettes into the country. This is particularly strictly enforced on the land borders with Malaysia. Many public places including hawker centres have restrictions on smoking, and it is prohibited in public transport as well. There is a total ban on smoking in all air-conditioned places (including pubs and discos), and strict limitations on where you can smoke outside as well (eg. bus stops and all except the designated sections of hawker centres are off limits). The designated zone should be marked with a yellow outline, and may have a sign reading "smoking zone".

Prostitution

Prostitution is tolerated in six designated districts, most notably Geylang, which — not coincidentally — also offers some of the cheapest lodging and best food in the city. The industry maintains a low profile (no go-go bars here) and is not a tourist attraction by any stretch of the word. Legally practising commercial sex workers are required to register with the authorities and attend special clinics for regular sexually transmitted disease screening. However, please be prudent and practice safe sex--although most sex workers will insist on it anyway.

Orchard Towers, on Orchard Road, has been famously summarized as "four floors of whores" and, despite occasional crackdowns by the authorities, continues to live up to its name. Beware that the prostitutes working here are usually not registered, so the risk of theft and STDs is significantly higher, and not a few of the "women" are actually transsexuals.

Sleep

Individual listings can be found in Singapore's district articles

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:

Budget

Under $100

Mid-range

$100-300

Splurge

Over $300

Accommodation in Singapore is expensive by South-East Asian standards. Particularly in the higher price brackets, demand has been outstripping supply recently and during big events like the F1 race or some of the larger conventions it's not uncommon for pretty much everything to sell out. Lower-end hotels and hostels, though, remain affordable and available throughout the year.

Do note that Singapore's laws that ban late night/early morning construction only apply to residential areas and not the city centre. You can expect to hear loud piling from sites such as the new Shanghai tunnel late into the night or early morning. Keep this in mind and check for any construction work near any hotel you choose as the work will be unlikely to stop when you want to sleep!

Unless you're a shopping maven intent on maximizing time in Orchard Road's shopping malls, the Riverside is probably the best place to stay in Singapore.

Budget

Backpackers' hostels can be found primarily in Little India, Bugis and the East Coast. Around $20-30 for a dorm bed.

Cheap hotels are clustered in the Geylang, Balestier and Little India districts, where they service mostly the type of customer who rents rooms by the hour. Rooms are generally small and not fancy, but are still clean and provide basic facilities like a bathroom and television. Prices start as low as $15 for a "transit" of a few hours and $40 for a full night's stay. The two major local chains, with hotels throughout the island, are:

- Fragrance Hotel, +65 63456116, [84]. Chain of 13 affordable hotels and one backpackers' hostel. Rooms from $58, discounts on weekends and for ISIC holders.

- Hotel 81, +65 67678181, [85]. A chain of over 20 cheap, functional hotels that are not a bad option for backpackers willing to pay a small premium for privacy, with rates starting at $49 for two.

Mid-range

Much of Singapore's mid-range accommodation is in rather featureless but functional older hotels, with a notable cluster near the western end of the Singapore River. There has, however, been a recent surge of "boutique" hotels in renovated shophouses here and in Chinatown and these can be pretty good value, with rates starting from $100/night.

Splurge

Singapore has a wide selection of luxury accommodation, including the famed Raffles Hotel. You will generally be looking at upwards of $300 per night for a room in a five-star hotel, which is still a pretty good deal by most standards. Hotel rates fluctuate quite a bit: a large conference can double prices, while on weekends in the off-peak season heavy discounts are often available. The largest hotel clusters can be found at Marina Bay (good for sightseeing) and around Orchard Road (good for shopping).

Long-term

Housing in Singapore is expensive, as the high population density and sheer scarcity of land drives real estate prices through the roof. As a result, you would generally be looking at rentals on par with the likes of New York and London.

Apartment hotels in Singapore include Ascott [86], which also operates under the Somerset and Citadines brands. Prices are competitive with hotels but quite expensive compared to apartments.

Renting an apartment in Singapore will generally require a working visa. While over 80% of Singaporeans live in government-subsidized Housing Development Board (HDB) flats, their availability to visitors is limited, although JTC's SHiFT [87] scheme makes some available with monthly rents in the $700-1,000 range.

Most expats, however, turn to private housing blocks known as condos, where an average three-bedroom apartment will cost you anything from $2,000 per month for an older apartment in the suburbs to $20,000 for a top-of-the-line deluxe one on Orchard Road. Most condos have facilities like pools, gyms, tennis court, carpark and 24 hr security. As the supply of studio and one-bedroom apartments is very limited, most people on a budget share an apartment with friends or colleagues, or just sublet a single room. Landed houses, known as bungalows, are incredibly expensive in the centre (rents are regularly measured in tens of thousands) but can drop if you're willing to head out into the woods — and remember that you can drive across the country in 30 minutes.

One or two-month security deposits are standard practice and for monthly rents of under $3,000 you need to pay the agent a commission of 2 weeks per year of lease. Leases are usually for two years, with a "diplomatic clause" that allows you to terminate after 1 year. Singapore Expats [88] is the largest real estate agency geared for expats and their free classifieds are a popular choice for hunting for rooms or apartment-mates. You might also want to check the classified ads in the local newspapers.

Learn

Singapore's universities are generally well-regarded and draw exchange students from near and far.

- National University of Singapore (NUS), [89]. Singapore's oldest university, strong in law, computing and science. One of the premier universities in Asia.

- Nanyang Technological University (NTU), [90]. The second university in this island state, more geared towards engineering, media and business studies. Host for the Youth Olympics 2010

- Singapore Management University (SMU), [91]. The third, newest, and the only publicly-funded private university in Singapore. Geared towards finance and business.

- Singapore Institute of Management University (SIM), [92]. Singapore's private university with a number of international degree courses. The school offers a wide range of first degrees, from the arts to business to technology studies.

A number of foreign universities, business schools and specialized institutes have also setup their Asian campuses in Singapore.

- SP Jain Center Of Management (SPJCM), [93]. International campus of the business school in Mumbai.

- INSEAD, [94]. The Asian campus of European business school, INSEAD.

- University of Chicago Graduate School of Business, [95]. The Asian campus of the University of Chicago Graduate School of Business, offering one of the most expensive MBAs in the world.

- DigiPen Institute of Technology, [96]. The Asian campus of the DigiPen Institute of Technology, Redmond, Seattle, Washington.

- ESSEC, [97]. International campus of the business school in Paris.

- Tisch Asia, [98]. Asian campus of New York University's Tisch School of the Arts. It offers courses that are film-related, including animation, writing and producing.

Cooking

- at-Sunrice, Fort Canning Park, +65 63363307, [99]. A professional cooking academy that also does day classes for the public. The crowd-pleaser is the "Spice Garden Walk" ($40) at Fort Canning, where a chef introduces you to local herbs and spices and their uses in cuisine and medicine, and then guides you in the fine art of making your own curry paste. Reservations essential.

- Cookery Magic, 179 Haig Road, +65 63489667 (info@cookerymagic.com), [100]. Cooking classes in an old colonial black-and-white home, with themes varying by day and cuisines from all over the continent. 8 students maximum. From $65.

- Palate Sensations, 1 Westbourne Road #03-05, +65 64799025 (info@palatesensations.com), [101]. Hands-on cooking classes in both European and Asian styles, held in a colonial black and white bungalow in rural western Singapore. 12 students maximum. From $100.

Work

Casual work is nearly impossible to come by, as you must have a work permit (WP) or employment pass (EP) to work in Singapore. In practice, receiving either requires that you have a firm job offer and the sponsoring company applies on your behalf; however, highly skilled people can apply for an Employment Pass Eligibility Certificate (EPEC), which allows you to stay in Singapore for a maximum of one year while you look for a job. There is also a Working Holiday Programme [102] for recent university grads who want to live in Singapore for up to 6 months.

Work permits are mostly intended for menial, low-skilled laborers. To be eligible for an employment pass, you would generally need to have a minimum salary of more than $2,500 per month and hold at least a bachelor degree from a reasonably reputable university. There is also an intermediate known as the S pass, which is usually granted to mid-skilled workers who have been promoted to positions of junior leadership such as worksite supervisor, and would require you to have a minimum salary of more than $1,800 per month as well as your employer's recommendation. Employment pass holders as well as S pass holders with a monthly salary of more than $2,500 are allowed to bring in their family members on a dependent pass.

If your employment is terminated, you will get a social visit pass (a visitors visa with no employment rights) which allows you to stay for no longer than 14 days. You can look for another job during this time, but don't overstay your visa, and do not think about working without the right papers, this will result in a short stay in the local prison, with added fines, possibly caning and certain deportation. For more information, contact the Ministry of Manpower [103].

Once you have been working in Singapore for a year or so with an employment pass or S pass, applying for permanent residence (PR) is fairly straightforward. If granted — and the rule of thumb is, the higher your salary, the more likely you are to get it — you can stay in Singapore indefinitely (as long as you can show some income every 5 years) and can change jobs freely.

Stay safe

Singapore is one of the safest major cities in the world by virtually any measure. Most people, including single female travelers, will not face any problems walking along the streets alone at night. But as the local police say, "low crime does not mean no crime" — beware of pickpockets in crowded areas and don't forget your common sense entirely.

Singapore's squeaky cleanliness is achieved in part by strict rules against activities that are tolerated in other countries. For example, jay-walking, spitting, littering, and drinking and eating on public transport are prohibited. Locals joke about Singapore being a fine city because heavy fines are levied if one is caught committing an offense. Look around for sign boards detailing the Don'ts and the fines associated with these offenses, and heed them. Avoid littering, as offenders are not only subject to fines, but also to a "Corrective Work Order", in which offenders are made to wear a bright yellow jacket and pick up rubbish in public places. Enforcement is however sporadic at best, and it is not uncommon to see people openly litter, spit, smoke in non-smoking zones, etc. Chewing gum, famously long banned, is now available at pharmacies for medical purposes (e.g. nicotine gum) if you ask for it directly, show your ID and sign the register. While importing "retail quantities" of gum is still an offense, one can bring in a few packs of gum without any problem.

WARNING: Singapore treats drug offenses extremely severely. The death penalty is mandatory for those convicted of trafficking, manufacturing, importing or exporting more than 15 g of heroin, 30 g of morphine, 30 g of cocaine, 500 g of cannabis, 200 g of cannabis resin and 1.2 kg of opium, and possession of these quantities is all that is needed for you to be convicted. For unauthorised consumption, there is a maximum of 10 years' jail or fine of $20,000, or both. You can be charged for unauthorised consumption as long as traces of illicit drugs are found in your system, even if you can prove that they were consumed outside the country, and you can be charged for trafficking as long as drugs are found in bags that are in your possession or in your room, even if they aren't yours and regardless of whether you're aware of them - therefore be vigilant of your possessions.

For some crimes, most notably illegal entry and overstaying your visa for over 90 days, Singapore imposes caning as a punishment. Other offenses which have caning as a punishment include vandalism (just ask Michael P. Fay), robbery, molestation and rape. Do note that having sex with a girl under the age of 16 is considered to be rape under Singapore law, regardless of whether the girl consents to it and would land you a few strokes of the cane. This is no slap on the wrist: strokes from the thick rattan cane are excruciatingly painful, take weeks to heal and scar for life. Corruption is also punishable by caning so under no circumstances should you try to offer a bribe or gratuity to a police officer. Crimes such as murder, kidnapping, unauthorized possession of firearms and drug trafficking are punished with death.

Oral and anal sex, long banned under colonial-era sodomy statutes, was legalised for heterosexuals in October 2007. Homosexual contact, however, remains illegal, with a theoretical punishment two years in prison and/or caning. Though this law is rarely enforced and there is a fairly vibrant gay community, gays should still expect legalized discrimination and unaccepting attitudes from locals and government officials.

Begging is illegal in Singapore, but you'll occasionally see beggars on the streets. Most are not Singaporean — even the "monks" dressed in robes, who occasionally pester tourists for donations, are usually bogus.

Tourists should be vigilant of taxi scams while in Singapore. Some taxi drivers receive commission for delivering foreigners to certain tourist traps and will employ high-pressure techniques to take you there. If reasonably possible, make sure the place you're going to is open before going there, confirm the place you're going to with the driver before embarking on your journey, and that you wish to go straight there. Do not confuse genuine helpfulness with an attempted scam, though.

Singapore is virtually immune to natural disasters: there are no fault lines nearby, although Indonesia's earthquakes can sometimes be barely felt, and other landmasses shield it from typhoons, tornadoes and tsunamis. Flooding in the November-January monsoon season is an occasional hazard, especially in low-lying parts of the East Coast, but any water usually drains off within a day and life continues as normal. Recently, after the completion of the Marina Barrage, Orchard Road has faced several flash floods, but efforts have been made to improve the situation.

Emergency numbers

- Ambulance ☎ 995

- Fire ☎ 995

- Police (Main number for Emergency Services) ☎ 999

- Singapore General Hospital ☎ +65 6222 3322

- Drug & Poison Information Centre ☎ +65 6423 9119

Stay healthy

Tap water is safe for drinking, and sanitation standards are very high. As a tropical country, Singapore is hot and humid so drink a lot of water. The lowest temperature ever recorded in Singapore was way back in 1934, when it hit a low of 19.4°C (66.9°F).

Malaria is not an issue, but dengue fever is endemic to the region. Singapore maintains strict mosquito control (leaving standing water around will get you fined), but the government's reach does not extend into the island's nature reserves, so if you're planning on hiking bring along mosquito repellent.

Medical care

The standard of medical care in Singapore is uniformly excellent and Singapore is a popular destination for medical tourism (and medical evacuations) in the region. Despite the lower prices, standards are often as good as those in the West at both public and private clinics, making this a good place to get your jabs and tabs if heading off into the jungle elsewhere. You'll still want to make sure your insurance is in order before a prolonged hospitalization and/or major surgery.

For minor ailments, head down to the nearest suburban shopping mall or HDB shopping district and look for a general practitioner (GP). They usually receive patients without appointment and can prescribe drugs on the spot, and the total cost of a consultation, medicine included, rarely exceeds $30. For larger problems, head to a hospital.

- Mount Elizabeth Hospital, Mount Elizabeth (off Orchard Rd), +65 67372666, [104]. Singapore's largest private hospital and a popular destination for medical tourists. Consultations with specialists start from $100.

- Singapore General Hospital, College Road, 1st-3rd Hospital Avenue (Right next to MRT Outram Park), [105]. Singapore's oldest and largest public hospital. Outram Polyclinic [106] offers doctor's consultations for $20.30 and can refer patients to specialists at the hospital, although waiting times can be long; afternoons are better than mornings. Open Mon-Fri 8 AM to 4:30 PM.

- Tan Tock Seng Hospital, 11 Jalan Tan Tock Seng (MRT Novena), +65 62656011, [107]. One of Singapore's largest public hospitals, fully equipped to handle most anything. Specialist departments here include a one-stop Travellers' Health & Vaccination Centre for immunizations, malaria prophylaxis, pre-trip and post-trip evaluations and general advice. Flat $80 fee for doctor's consultation, vaccines for $10 plus cost (consultation unnecessary), tel. +65 63572222, open 8AM-1PM and 2PM-5PM weekdays, 8AM-noon Sa, no appointment needed.

Alternatively, practitioners of traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) are widespread in Singapore. Eu Yan Sang [108] runs a chain of over 20 clinics, while the Singapore Chinese Physicians' Association [109] offers a directory of TCM physicians.

Restroomsortoilets

Nearly all shopping centers, hotels, MRT stations, bus interchanges, and hawker centers are likely to have public restrooms/toilet facilities available. Being clean, McDonald's restrooms are popular too, and the staff do not make a fuss. Public facilities may charge 10 to 20 cents per entry, and a packet of tissue may come in handy if the toilet paper has run out. Most toilets have bowls, but there is usually one squatting cubicle in every public toilet.

Respect

What's in a name?

- Chinese place their family name first, so Phua Chu Kang is Mr. Phua for business and Chu Kang (or just CK) to his friends. Many have Western names, so he may also be known as Terry Phua.
- Malay names are given name + bin or binti (son/daughter) + father's name. Mohammed bin Abdullah would usually be called Mr. Mohammed. Sometimes, the person's given name appears after the Mohammed (example: Mohammed Faizal bin Mohammed Nasser) so, in such a case, he would usually be addressed as Mr. Faizal.
- Indian names are complex, but the south Indian (Tamil) names usually found in Singapore have two patterns: either given name + s/o or d/o (son of/daughter of) + father's name, or father's initial + given name. Given names are often long and may be abbreviated, so Ramanathan s/o Sellapan uses the name S.R. Nathan and would addressed as Mr. Nathan. The foolproof method is to ask how the person wants to be addressed.

Singaporeans care little about formal politeness. What would be decent behavior at home, wherever home might be, is unlikely to offend anyone in Singapore. In Singapore, unlike much of southeast Asia, women wearing revealing clothing or men wearing shorts and slippers are perfectly acceptable. That said, upmarket bars and restaurants may enforce dress codes and Singaporeans tend to be more socially conservative than Westerners, meaning that public display of affection is still frowned upon and toplessness for women is not acceptable anywhere, even on the beach.

Casual conversation such as chatting with a shopkeeper is rarely done in Singapore, and you may get strange looks if you try. No offense is intended, but Singaporeans are just protective of their personal space and showing courtesy by trying not to impose on others. Furthermore, the local dialect with its heavy Chinese influences may appear brusque or even rude, but saying "You want beer or not?" is in fact more polite in Chinese than asking if you want beer, after all, the person asking you the question is offering you a choice, not making a demand.

If invited to somebody's house, always remove your shoes before you enter as most Singaporeans do not wear their shoes at home. Socks are perfectly acceptable though, as long as they are not excessively soiled. Many places of worship also require you to remove your shoes before you enter.

At rush hour, be prepared for a lot of pushing on the MRT (even just to get off) and everyone racing for the empty seat, though in a somewhat orderly manner. This is normal, despite signs asking people to be a little more courteous. Just go with the flow.

Beware of taboos if bringing gifts. Any products (food or otherwise) involving animals may cause offence and are best avoided, as are white flowers (usually reserved for funerals). Knives and clocks are also symbols of cutting ties and death, respectively, and some Chinese are superstitious about the number four. Many Singaporean Muslims and some Hindus abstain from alcohol.

Swastikas are commonly seen in Buddhist and Hindu temples, as well as among the possessions of Buddhists and Hindus. It is regarded as a religious symbol and does not represent Nazism or anti-Semitism. As such, Western visitors should not feel offended on seeing a swastika in the homes of their hosts, and many locals will wonder what the fuss is all about.

Take dietary restrictions into account when inviting Singaporean friends for a meal. Many Indians (and a few Chinese) are vegetarian. Most Malays eat only halal food, while most Indians, being Hindu, abstain from beef.

Business

Singaporeans are punctual, so show up on time. The standard greeting is a firm handshake. However, conservative Muslims avoid touching the opposite sex, so a man meeting a Malay woman should let her offer her hand first and a woman meeting a Malay man should wait for him to offer his hand. If they opt to place their hand on the heart and bow slightly instead, just follow suit. Singaporeans generally do not hug, especially if it is someone they have just met, and doing so would probably make your host feel awkward, though the other person will probably be too polite to say anything as saving face is a major Asian value.

For men, standard business attire is a long-sleeved shirt and a tie, although the tie is often omitted, the shirt's collar button opened instead. Jackets are rarely worn because it is too hot most of the time. Women usually wear Western business attire, but a few prefer Malay-style kebaya and sarong.

Business cards are always exchanged when people meet for business for the first time: hold yours with both hands by the top corners, so the text faces the recipient, while simultaneously receiving theirs. (This sounds more complicated than it is.) Study the cards you receive and feel free to ask questions; when you are finished, place them on the table in front of you, not in a shirt pocket or wallet, and do not write on them or otherwise show disrespect.

Business gifts are generally frowned on as they smell of bribery. Small talk and bringing up the subject indirectly are neither necessary nor expected. Most meetings get straight down to business.

Contact

By phone

The international telephone country code for Singapore is 65. There are three main telecommunication providers in Singapore: SingTel [110], StarHub [111] and MobileOne (M1) [112].

Mobile phones are carried by almost everyone in Singapore, including many young children, and coverage is generally excellent throughout the country. All 3 service providers have both GSM 900/1800 and 3G (W-CDMA) networks, and international roaming onto them may be possible; check with your operator before you leave to be sure. Prepaid SIM cards are sold in 7-Eleven convenience stores, phone shops and currency exchange counters, just bring your own GSM/3G phone or buy a cheap used handset in Singapore. You will need to show an international passport or Singapore ID to sign up.

A local phone call costs between $0.05-$0.25 per min, whereas each local text message (SMS) costs about $0.05, with international SMS about $0.15-$0.25 (but a few dozen local SMS are usually thrown in for free when you top up). You may also be charged for incoming calls. Most prepaid cards expire within 6 mth unless you top-up (which can be done outside Singapore). The carriers also offer special top up cards that will give a higher number of minutes for the price at the downside of expiring more quickly. As in many places, mobile data with on prepaid voice SIM cards can be ridiculously expensive. StarHub offers a 1GB package (valid for 30 days). It costs $25 and is aimed at BlackBerries but works with any phone. Using the StarHub SIM, call *122# and follow the menu to activate. Data-only SIMs can be more affordable. For short stays, StarHub has 2Mbps unlimited service at S$15 per week. For longer stays, bring a MicroSIM adapter and you can get StarHub's 2GB package (good for 60 days) for $37.

Public phones are an increasingly endangered species, but you can find them in most MRT stations. They are either coin-operated pay phones (10 cents for a three-minute local call), card phones operated by phone cards in denominations of $3, $5, $10, $20 and $50, or credit card phones. Phone cards are available at all post offices and from phonecard agents. Most coin-operated pay phones are for local calls only, there are some which accept coins of larger denominations and can be used for overseas calls. Credit card phones are usually found at the airport or in some major hotels.

To make an international call from Singapore, dial the access code 001 (for SingTel), 002 (for M1), and 008 (for StarHub), followed by the country code, area code and party's number. Recently the providers have started offering cheaper rates for calls using Internet telephony routes. The access codes for this cheaper service are 019 and 013 for SingTel and 018 for StarHub, make sure you input these codes instead of the "+" sign at the beginning of the number if you wish to use these services.

Calling cards are also available for specific international destinations and are usually cheaper. Hello Card from Singtel offers a very cheap rate to 8 countries (Bangladesh, China, India, Indonesia, Myanmar, Philippines, Sri Lanka and Thailand).

By net

Internet cafes charging around $2/hr are scattered about the island, but are not particularly common since almost all locals have Internet access at home, work, and/or school. Head to Chinatown or Little India if you need get online, or check out the top floors of many suburban malls, which feature Internet cafes doubling as online gaming parlors. Alternatively, all public libraries [113] offer cheap Internet access ($0.03/min or $1.80/hr), but you need to jump through registration hoops to get access.

The first phase of the nationwide free Wireless@SG system is now operating and visitors are free to use the system, although you must register and receive a password via e-mail or a mobile phone first. See the Infocomm Development Authority website [114] for a current list of hotspots. Commercial alternatives include McDonalds, which offers free wifi at most outlets; StarHub, a member of the Wireless Broadband Alliance with hotspots at Coffee Bean cafes; and SingTel, which has hotspots at most Starbucks cafes. Roaming or prepaid rates are on the order of $0.10/min.

There are several options for prepaid 3G/HSPA internet. Starhub MaxMobile [115] has different plans from S$2/hour to S$25 for 5 days unlimited 7.2mbps internet. SIM costs S$12. M1 Prepaid Broadband offers unlimited Internet access for three days/five days at S$18/S$30 [116].

By mail

SingPost [117] has offices throughout the island, generally open 8:30AM-5PM weekdays, 8:30AM-1PM Saturdays, closed Sundays. The Changi Airport T2 (transit side) office is open 6 AM-midnight daily, while the 1 Killeney Rd branch is open until 9 PM weekdays and 10AM-4PM Sundays. Service is fast and reliable. A postcard to anywhere in the world costs 50 cents, and postage labels can also be purchased from the self-service SAM machines found in many MRT stations.

Small packets up to 2 kg cost $3.50/100g for airmail, or $1/100g for surface mail. For larger packages, DHL [118] may offer competitive rates.

Cope

Electricity

Singapore uses the British BS1363 three-pin rectangular socket (230V/50Hz). Plug adaptors are available at any hardware store.

Embassies, high commissions and consulates

Singapore is a good place to collect visas for the region. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs [119] maintains a complete searchable database of diplomatic institutions.

Hair cuts

Singaporeans are particular about their hair and there is no shortage of fancy hair salons charging from $20 up for the latest Chinese popstar look. If you are willing to splurge, there is Passion Hair Salon at Palais Renaissance with celebrity hairstylist David Gan (hairstylist of Zhang Ziyi and other famous celebrities) doing the haircut. Le Salon at Ngee Ann City offers haircuts up to $2000. The middle range hair salons located in town or in the heartlands, offer haircuts with hair wash as well as other frills. Chains include Reds Hairdressing, Supercuts and Toni and Guy salons that are located all over Singapore. For a more backpacker-friendly price, almost every shopping mall in Singapore has a branch of EC House [167] or one of its many imitators, offering fuss-free 10 min haircuts for $10, although the hairdressers are mostly happy to spend as long as necessary on your hair, within reasonable limits. Most HDB estates have barbershops which charge $5 to $10 for adults and less for students and children.

Laundry

Laundromats are few and far between in Singapore, but full-service laundry and dry cleaning shops can be found in every shopping mall. Unfortunately turnaround times are usually upwards of three days unless you opt for express service. Hotels can provide one-day laundry (at a price), whereas hostels often have communal self-service washing machines.

- Laundry Day, 5 Koek Road #01-18 (Cuppage Plaza, behind Centrepoint Orchard), +65 67345286, [168]. Mon-Fri 10AM-7PM, Sat 10AM-6PM. Washing, drying and folding of clothes including undergarments. Three-hour service $10 per 3kg.

- Systematic Laundromat, +65 67540277, [169]. 11AM-late. Laundry service with 16 outlets around Singapore. $6 for 4 kg of laundry, either self-service or returned the next day depending on the outlet. Central branches include Centrepoint Orchard (MRT Somerset) and Robertson Walk (near Gallery Hotel).

- Wonder Wash Self-Service Laundromat, No 1 Lorong 23 Geylang Highpoint, +65 97862038, [170]. 24 hours service. Singapore's only totally self-service laundromat with no attendant. $4 for 8 kg of laundry.

Photo processing

Practically every shopping mall has a photo shop that will process film, print digital pictures and take passport photos. Many pharmacies and supermarkets also have self-service kiosks which print digital photos from CD, SD-card, USB drive, etc.

Sports

The Singapore Sports Council [171] runs a chain of affordable sports facilities, often featuring fantastic outdoor 50 m pools (see Swimming for a list). Facilities are somewhat sparse but the prices are unbeatable, with eg. swimming pools charging $1 for entry and access to ClubFITT gyms only $2.50. The main downside is the inconvenient location of most facilities out in the suburbs, although most are located close to an MRT station and can be reached within 10-20 min from downtown. The gyms also have a total ban on bringing in any reading material (aimed at students but enforced blindly), although MP3 players are OK.

Major private gym chains include California Fitness [172], Fitness First [173] and True Fitness [174]. Facilities are better and locations more central, but the prices are also much higher as non-members have to fork out steep day pass fees (around $40).

Some of the parks [175] offer rental of bicycles and inline skates ($3-6/hr, open till 8PM). Especially rewarding for skaters and cyclists is the 10 km long stretch along East Coast Park with a paved track and lots of rental shops, bars and cafes around the McDonalds. There are toilets and showers along the track. Furthermore every park has a couple of fitness stations.

Get out

Singapore makes a good base for exploring South-East Asia, with nearly all of the region's countries and their main tourist destinations — Bangkok, Phuket, Angkor Wat, Ho Chi Minh City and Bali, just to name a few — under 2 hr away by plane. The advent of budget carriers in recent times means that Singapore is an excellent place for catching cheap flights to China and India, as well as around Southeast Asia. In addition, Singapore has direct flights to many of the smaller cities in Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand.

For day or weekend trips from Singapore, the following are popular:

- Batam — The nearest Indonesian island to Singapore, just a short ferry trip away. Mainly industrial and infamous for its vice trade, but has some resorts.

- Bintan — Indonesian island just 90 minutes away by ferry, offering both high-end resorts and the "real Indonesia" experience.

- Johor Bahru — Malaysian city just across the Causeway. Not much to look at, but popular for cheap eats and shopping.

- Kuala Lumpur — Malaysia's vibrant capital. 35 min by plane, 4-5 hr by bus or overnight by train.

- Malacca — Once one of the three Straits Settlements, now a sleepy colonial town. 3-4 hr by bus.

- Tioman — The nearest of Malaysia's East Coast paradise islands, reachable by bus & ferry or plane.

For those who can afford more time to travel, here are several destinations popular among Singaporeans:

- Bali — One of Indonesia's biggest tourist draws with its nice beaches and good food. About 2,5 hr away by plane.

- Bangkok — Thailand's capital and considered a food,shopping and clubbing paradise by many Singaporeans. It is less then 2 hr flight away, or 2 nights by train, assuming you don't stop off in Kuala Lumpur or Butterworth (for Penang).

- Phuket — One of the largest islands in Thailand, is another popular destination for Singaporeans. It offers a great weekend getaway and is less than 2 hours flight away. Relatively cheaper than Singapore, it is a great destination just to hang around.

- Ipoh — The capital of the Malaysian state of Perak, it is famous among Singaporeans for its food. 7-8 hr away by coach, or 1 hour by turboprop flight.

- Langkawi — An island in the Malaysian state of Kedah, just south of the Thai border, famed for endless beaches. Just over an 1 hr by plane.

- Penang — One of the Straits Settlements, with a rich history and fabulous food. About 12 hr away by coach, or 1 hr if you choose to fly.

District Riverside Table of Contents

• Get in

• Get around

By boat

On foot

• See

Monuments

Museums

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

Bars and pubs

Cafes

Nightclubs

• Sleep

Mid-range

Splurge

• Cope

Laundry

Get in
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The riverside is best accessed by MRT Raffles Place (North-South/East-West Lines) and Clarke Quay (North-East Line) stations. There is no convenient MRT station for the western end of the river though: you'll have to hike on foot for 15 minutes, try to work out the buses, or hop on a bumboat.

Get around
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By boat
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A popular way to see the heart of the city is with Singapore River Cruises [1]. Stations are scattered along both banks of the river and reservations are not necessary. Prices start at $3 for a simple ride from point A to point B.

On foot
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The Esplanade/Merlion/Boat Quay area has some great views of Singapore and makes for a fine walk (or jogging trail if staying nearby). It can get quite hot during the day though; evenings are cooler and breezier, and the night time skyline is equally attractive.

See
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The bulk of Singapore's historical attractions are packed by the river, and the best place to start your tour is at the mouth of the Singapore River. While this area has formed the downtown core of Singapore since the early 19th century, sadly, most of the once-iconic shophouses and street markets have given way to modern skyscrapers and shopping centres in the 1980's, and those who wish to experience a more authentic slice of colonial Singapore life would do well to head up north to the Malaysian island of Penang instead. Not all is lost though, and several important government buildings and places of worship dating back to the 19th century still survive, and provide a rare glimpse into the city's colonial past.

Monuments
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- Merlion, Merlion Park (Raffles Place MRT exit H, off Fullerton Rd). Singapore's official symbol, 8.6 meters tall and weighing 70 tons, spouts water daily on the south bank of the mouth of the Singapore river. (The statue previously resided further down the river, but was moved in 2002 after the opening of the Esplanade Bridge.) Designed by the Singapore Tourist Promotion Board in 1964, many a commentator has pondered on the inherent contradictions of a creature that is half-cat, half-fish — much like Singapore itself. Singaporeas themselves regard the monument as a bit of a joke, and indeed in Singaporean slang the verb to merlion means "to vomit"! But any time of night or day, a steady stream of tourists troops up to see the mythical beast, and a purpose-built pier lets you take pictures with the Merlion and the CBD in the background. When paying your respects, don't miss the bite-sized Mini-Merlion (officially the "Merlion cub"), a mere two meters tall, just 28m away towards the bridge. Free.

- Cavenagh Bridge, next to Fullerton Hotel. Singapore's oldest bridge and its only suspension bridge, constructed in 1869, now a pedestrian walkway across the mouth of the Singapore River. Note the original sign forbidding cattle to cross.

- Raffles Statue, 1 Empress Place (next to Asian Civilisations Museum). This statue of Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, is built on the (supposed) exact spot where he first landed. Second only to the Merlion as most popular place in Singapore to take a picture of yourself, and having the skyscrapers and the shophouses of Boat Quay in the background helps to explain why! The statue here is actually a replica; the original can be found in front of the Victoria Theatre.

Museums
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- Asian Civilisations Museum, 1 Empress Place, +65-63327798, [2]. Mon 1-7 PM, Tue-Sun 9:30 AM-7 PM. One of Singapore's newest, largest and best-presented museums. As the name hints, all of Asia is covered in the scope, although naturally there is an emphasis on the cultures near and in Singapore. Also hosts visiting exhibitions. $5, or $10 for Peranakan Museum joint ticket.

- Mint Museum of Toys, 26 Seah St (behind Raffles Hotel), +65-63390660, [3]. 9:30AM-6:30PM daily. Built to house the 50,000-piece toy collection of local enthusiast Chang Yang Fa, the contents of this five-story building covers come from 25 countries and span over a century of "Moments of Imagination and Nostalgia with Toys" (hence MINT), with everything from wind-up toys to Darth Vader masks. Guided tours (45 min) available and recommended. S$15/7.50 adult/child (under 12).

- Peranakan Museum, 39 Armenian St, +65-63327591, [4]. Mon 1-7 PM, Tue-Sun 9:30 AM-7 PM. Formerly a branch of the ACM, now reborn as a standalone museum dedicated to the exuberantly colourful culture of the Peranakans, the Malay-Chinese and Malay-Indian traders who had a major impact on the Straits Settlements. The three story museum covers Peranakan weddings, religion and food with the latest in audiovisual gear. The building itself, a 1912 pastel blue wedding cake originally built as a school, is also impressive. $8, or $10 for ACM joint ticket.

Do
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The entire Singapore river area is a lovely place for a walk, with small green gardens, old-style bridges and historical buildings, and the nightlife-rich expanse of Clarke Quay and Boat Quay.

- Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall, 9 Empress Place (Raffles Place MRT), +65-63384401, [5]. Originally built by the British in the 19th century, this was Singapore's premier arts centre until the Esplanade came and stole the limelight. Still hosts various smaller events that can't fit in (or afford) the Esplanade. History buffs may also want to do a detour: the Raffles statue in front dates to 1887, and the People's Action Party was founded here in 1954, as commemorated with a plaque showing a very young-looking Lee Kuan Yew.

If you'd like something a little more adrenaline-laden, head to Clarke Quay:

- G-Max Reverse Bungy, 3E River Valley Road (Clarke Quay), +65-63381146, [6]. 3 PM-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-1 AM Sat-Sun. Get strapped in and flung upwards with a giant rubber band at 200 km/h. $45.

Jogging along the Singapore River is the best way to combine sightseeing and a workout, but there are two other options right next to Raffles Place MRT if you're willing pay for air-con.

- Fitness First, 1 Raffles Place #06-00 (OUB Centre), +65-65344333, [7]. 6 AM-10 PM Mon-Fri, 7 AM-7 PM Sat, closed Sun/PH. Compact little gym, but there's a rooftop swimming pool, two jacuzzis and a tennis court. Day pass $40.

- True Fitness, 30 Raffles Place #07-00 (Caltex House), +65-64383000, [8]. 6 AM-11 PM Mon-Fri, 8 AM-6 PM Sat-Sun. Cavernous two-floor gym packed with equipment. Busy in the evenings, but come here in the afternoon or weekend and you'll have the place to yourself.

Buy
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There are some shopping malls of interest around the City Hall MRT station, but serious shoppers will wish to head to Orchard Road for their shopping instead.

- The Arcade, 11 Collyer Quay (next to Raffles Place MRT). A small shopping mall in the heart of the financial center. Consists mainly of small shops operated by individual owners, which are unique to the mall.

- Funan DigitaLife Mall, 109 North Bridge Road (City Hall MRT), +65-63368327, [9]. One of the best places to buy electronics in Singapore, stores here are strictly vetted and the risk of getting ripped off is low. To test new purchases, you can even make use of the WiFi facility in the mall to get online and do the necessary checks. Tax Free Shopping for Tourists For tourists visiting Singapore, a Premier Tax Free Refund Voucher is issued with a minimum spend of $100 at any Premier Tax-Free affiliated store. GST refunds will be issued upon departure from Singapore Changi Airport.

- Peninsula Plaza, 111 North Bridge Road (City Hall MRT), +65-63320329. A place where Myanmese like to gather for a good meal of authentic home cuisine. Also notable for its concentration of specialist camera stores.

- Raffles City, 252 North Bridge Road (City Hall MRT), +65-63387766, [10]. Large shopping mall located directly above the City Hall MRT station. Notable for Jason's Supermarket in the basement, which has probably Singapore's largest selection of gourmet food items. Raffles City Shopping Centre covers most shopping bases, including fashion, books, music, sports, toys, eyewear and beauty stores. A haven for consumers looking for luxury items, it offers downtown shopping at its finest with a number of luxury and designer stores such as Omega, Thomas Sabo, Cortefiel and Tommy Hilfiger, among others. Raffles City is also home to big department stores like Marks & Spencer and Robinsons, and fashion chains like Topshop, River Island and Skyla. The mall also has a number of restaurants including modern Australian Double Bay and Brotzeit, and is connected to the Swissotel, home to the Equinox Restaurant and New Asia bar.

Eat
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You're spoiled for choice when eating at the riverside. Prices tend to be slightly inflated by Singaporean standards, so avoid any place that needs to use touts to get customers.

The western end of the river (around Robertson Quay) houses a significant Japanese expat community, and consequently the Japanese restaurants nearby serve up some of the best fare this side of Tokyo.

Budget
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- Komalas, 111 North Bridge Rd, +65-63335644, [11]. Daily 8 AM-10 PM. McDonalds-style fast food, only they serve vegetarian Indian food on a banana leaf instead of burgers and fries. Worth a visit for the cognitive dissonance and good food, with massive meal sets under $5.

- Lau Pa Sat, 18 Raffles Quay (near Raffles Place MRT). Open 24 hours. A nicely done up Victorian-style hawker centre, but a little pricier and hence quieter than most. The satay here is famous though, and there's a long row of outdoor stalls on the south side (open only in the evening), with Fatman Satay (Stall #1) generally getting the best reviews.

- Song Fa Bak Kut Teh, 11 Bridge Rd (Clarke Quay MRT, opp Central), +65-65336128, [12]. Tu-Su 11 AM-9 PM. Popular bak kut teh specialist serving light, peppery Teochew-style pork rib soup, best eaten with salted vegetables (mui choy), dough fritters (you tiao) and rice. Usually packed, but service is fast. $5.50/bowl.

- Yong Bak Kut Teh, 233 River Valley Rd (corner of Mohamed Sultan). Well located for late-night snacks, this coffeeshop serves up tasty KL-style dark, herbal pork rib soup. $5.30 for a bowl with rice and dough fritters.

Mid-range
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- Epicurious, 60 Robertson Quay #01-02, +65-67347720. Tue-Fri lunch/dinner, Sat-Sun all day (breakfast until 1 PM). This lovably quirky cafe-delicatessen is justly renowned for its gourmet breakfasts, featuring not only the usual pancakes and toasts but more offbeat options too. Try the Green Eggs and Ham, with pesto scrambled eggs and prosciutto ($12), and wash it down with freshly squeezed juice ($5).

- Ichibantei, 60 Robertson Quay #01-13, +65-67333923, [13]. 11:30 AM-11 PM daily. Possibly the best of Singapore's many ramen restaurants, this branch of an Osakan restaurant serves up generous portions of authentic Japanese noodles. $10.

- Inle Myanmar Restaurant, 111 North Bridge Rd, +65-63335438. 11 AM-10 PM. This very authentic little eatery is run by and for Singapore's tiny Burmese community, many of whom are gem traders in the office block above. The food is an intriguing mix of Thai and Indian influences. $5-10.

Splurge
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The best places for a splurge with a view in the evening are Boat Quay, Clarke Quay and Robertson Quay, which have many riverside restaurants offering al fresco dining. However, especially on Boat Quay, avoid any restaurant that has to resort to touts to find customers.

- Gyu-Kaku, 81A Clemenceau Ave #01-18/19 (UE Square), +65-67334001, [14]. Stylish Japanese-style charcoal barbeque joint, with a vast selection of wagyu (Japanese beef) and side dishes. Vegetarians need not apply. $35.

- IndoChine Waterfront, 1 Empress Place, +65-63391720, [15]. Directly opposite Boat Quay on a terrace outside the Asian Civilisations Museum, the restaurant offers reasonable modern Vietnamese/Lao/Khmer food and gorgeous views of the river at only moderately high prices. Great place for a romantic date, reservations highly advisable. $80.

- Jade, 1 Fullerton Square (Fullerton Hotel), +65-68778188. Lunch 11:30 AM-3 PM, dinner 6-11 PM. One of Singapore's best-regarded Chinese restaurants, dinner here can get very expensive indeed, but they're packed on Saturday and Sunday for one of the best deals in town: all you can eat gourmet dim sum made to order for $28, including soup, tea, and signature dishes like black ink squid dumplings and wasabi prawns. Reserve early.

- Jumbo Seafood, 20 Upper Circular Road #B1-48 (The Riverwalk), +65-65343435, [16]. Well-located outlet of the popular seafood chain famed for their chilli crabs, a Singapore specialty. Jumbo has another central outlet at Riverside Point, just across the river from Clarke Quay. $50.

- Mimigar, 1 Nanson Road #01-08 (Gallery Hotel), +65-62351511, [17]. Daily 6-11 PM. Excellent Okinawan eatery offering the full range of bitter gourd stir-fries and strange pork parts; the name is Okinawan for "pig ear"! Try the signature soki soba noodles ($9) and wash them down with some awamori rice liquor with a shikwasa lime mixer. Limited seating and popular on weekends, so show up early or make reservations. $50.

- Quayside Seafood Grill, Clarke Quay Block A (near Hooters), +65-63380138. One of the better places for Singaporean food on the Quays, open for dinner only. The pepper crab here is good but a little pricy at $4/100g, which translates to $60-80 per critter. $50.

- Viet Lang, 1 Old Parliament Lane, #01-03 Annex Building, Old Parliament House (just behind Victoria Theatre/Concert Hall), +65-63373379. Among the best Vietnamese restaurants in Singapore, and you can even wash down your pho and cha gio with some imported 333 beer. $40.

Another good choice popular with the expat crowd is CHIJMES (30 Victoria St) [18], the former Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus, now an atmospheric assemblage of high-end food & beverage outlets near the Raffles Hotel.

- Carnivore Brazilian Churrascaria, 30 Victoria St #01-29A (CHIJMES), +65-63349332, [19]. A real Brazilian churrascaria (barbecue), where waiters walk around with skewers of South American beef and you can eat all the meat you want. 11 churrascos at lunch, 15 at dinner, extensive salad bar, and there's a good selection of wines, cold beer and caipirinha, the Brazilian national drink made with sugar cane. $33/48 lunch/dinner.

- Lei Garden, 30 Victoria Street #01-24 (CHIJMES), +65 6339 3822, [20]. One of the most expensive Cantonese restaurants in town, this Hong Kong-based restaurant group serves high end cuisine with an emphasis on garoupa, shark's fin soup, lobsters, prawns and other seafood. Popular when entertaining business guests, just hope you're not the one who gets stuck with the bill. $50.

- Prego, 80 Bras Basah Road (Fairmont Singapore 1F), +65 64316156, [21]. Singapore's largest Italian restaurant seating 320, it has a pizzeria, a deli, a wine bar and the main restaurant. Good for their pastas and pizzas, the calamari rings and mushroom soup is also good for a start. The tiramisu is another highlight. $40.

Drink
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Singapore's nightlife is almost entirely concentrated near the river. The main party zones are Boat Quay, on the south of the river next to the financial district (MRT Raffles Place, exit G) and Clarke Quay [22] on the north bank a few blocks inland (MRT Clarke Quay). Less well known but also worth a look are Circular Road, parallel to Boat Quay just behind it, and Robertson Quay, an up-and-coming nightlife/restaurant zone at the western end of the river. Bars and pubs come and go with dizzying speed, so just head out and find today's hip spot. (In particular, superclub Ministry of Sound and topless revue Crazy Horse have both folded.) All four are within crawling distance of each other. Mohamed Sultan Rd, inland from Robertson Quay and until recently the place to be, has been severely eclipsed by newer upstarts and most bars have been replaced by restaurants and furniture stores.

Bars and pubs
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- Bar 84, 76 Robertson Quay, +65-62350002, [23]. Better known by locals as the Magic Bar, you can watch Ginza-trained manager-bartender-magician Hashi-san dazzle and astonish his guests nightly except Sunday. Dim lighting, smooth jazz, and stylish decoration makes this the perfect place of a quiet drink — although beware that, in addition to the $10 cover and $15 drinks, any props used for your amusement will also magically find their way onto your bill.

- Brewerkz, 30 Merchant Rd #01-05/06 (Riverside Point, opp Clarke Quay), +65-64387438, [24]. Noon-midnight daily. Singapore's first microbrewery, still going strong after ten years and now brewing up no less than 12 types, available in handy 6-glass sampler sets ($10.49). Indoor and outdoor seating, with a wide range of pub grub in huge portions. Lunchtime prices can go as low as $3.50 for a pint. $10.

- Hideout, 31B Circular Rd (top floor) (behind Boat Quay), +65-65369445, [25]. 7 PM-midnight Wed/Thu, 7 PM-3 AM Fri/Sat. Hideout is tucked away on the third storey of an old Chinese shop house. The central theme of the bar is a warm pink and burgundy hue, with distinct mismatched second-hand furniture, along with walls hung with paintings from local artists. The key to Hideout's popularity is its music. With local indie bands regularly playing on Wednesday nights and DJs playing funk, rare hip hop, soul, jazz, house, breaks, and techno on other nights, what is always evident is that the crowd loves music and is willing to experiment with new genres.

- Em by the River, 1 Nanson Road #01-05 (Gallery Hotel), +65-683 9691, [26]. 11 AM-3 AM Mon-Fri, 9 AM-4 AM Sat/Sun. Formerly Soundbar, this supremely chilled out place by the river is a cafe by day and a happening bar at night. $10.

- Eski Bar, 46 Circular Rd (behind Boat Quay), +65-65363757, [27]. If the tropical heat starts to get to you, pop into the coolest place in town — a steady -6°C, to be precise, although the chill-out area is a comparatively toasty 18°C. Try the grapefruity Eski Blue or coconut sweet Sleeping Polar Bear ($15 each). Open 5 PM to 1 AM (or later) daily.

- Equinox, 2 Stamford Rd, +65-68373322, [28]. The five bars and restaurants here offer the best nighttime views of the city, but prices are correspondingly expensive ($15 and up for a drink). For a cigar and live jazz, head to CitySpace (floor 70), while New Asia is a more casual place for a drink. Entry is through the Swissotel entrance on Stamford Rd.

- Harry's Bar, 28 Boat Quay, +65-5383029, [29]. The favorite watering hole of Nick Leeson, the "Rogue Trader" who brought down the 233-year-old Barings Bank and was once arrested here for indecent exposure. There are now franchises all over town, but this is the original. Try the Bank Breaker, an unlikely shot of whisky and Midori, which like Leeson's escapades goes down smooth but leaves a bitter taste in your mouth. Live music most nights.

- Long Bar, 1 Beach Rd (Raffles Hotel, 2nd floor), +65-64121816, [30]. 11:30 AM-1:30 AM. The birthplace of the Singapore Sling, a syrupy sweet pink concoction of pineapple juice, gin, cherry liquor and many mysterious ingredients. The two-floor bar is large and a bit of a tourist trap, but drinking a Sling at the beautifully decorated wood-paneled bar and throwing the accompanying peanut shells on the floor should be on every visitor's agenda — if you can stomach paying $30 for a premixed drink poured out of a pitcher.

- Marrakesh, 3D River Valley Road #01-01 (Clarke Quay), +65-63387331, [31]. 1 PM to 1 AM. The slick faux-Moorish decor inside is pleasant enough, but the thing to do here is to grab one of the hotly contested outdoor tables, fire up an expertly prepared shisha water pipe and watch the endless parade of Singapore's nightlife unroll before you. $12-15 for drinks.

- Pump Room, 3B River Valley Road, The Foundry (Clarke Quay), +65-63342628, [32]. Daily noon-3 AM. Very popular microbrewery/bistro at the heart of Clarke Quay. Full menu. Indoor and outdoor seating. Live music nightly (except Mon).

- Timbre, 1 Old Parliament Lane #01-04 (The Annex at The Old Parliament House), +65-63363386, [33]. Daily 6 PM-1 AM. In a beautifully renovated colonial house opposite Boat Quay (formerly occupied by Q Bar), this has some of the best views in town and is one of only a few places in Singapore specializing in local live music. Indoor and outdoor seating.

Cafes
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- Cosafe Maid Café, 30 Victoria Street #01-11 (CHIJMES), +65-63392276. Tu-Su noon-2AM. Singapore's first (and only) maid café, modeled on the ones in Tokyo's Akihabara: waitresses dolled up in short-skirted French maid outfits greet you with Okaerinasai (Welcome home) in Japanese and pose obligingly for pictures. No hanky-panky, and the food and drinks are nothing special, but it doesn't cost any more than Starbucks and alcohol is served too. Coffee $5, beer and wine $10 up.

Nightclubs
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At all clubs listed below, arrive early (or very late) because otherwise you may be stuck in line for a while. ID is theoretically required but rarely checked.

- Attica, 3A River Valley Rd #01-03 (Clarke Quay), +65-63339973, [34]. Daily 5 PM-late. Popular "New York style" club complex split into four zones: the outdoor 'lilypad' bar by the river, the main dancefloor (R&B, funk), the inner chill-out courtyard and Attica Too, the members-only club upstairs (house/trance). Picky bouncers, so dress sharp.

- Dbl O, 11 Unity St #01-24 (off Mohamed Sultan), +65-6735-2008, [35]. One of Singapore's most popular clubs, mostly thanks to its super-cheap drinks: house pours are only $3 a glass. Cover charge $15-25 (the earlier you arrive, the cheaper), with free entry and free drinks for ladies on Wed.

- Home, 20 Upper Circular Rd, +65-65382928, [36]. Opened in June 2005, this nightclub decorated with a strange mix of modern and retro attempts to plug the gap between Boat Quay and Clarke Quay. Drinks $12, 1-for-1 happy hour between 6 and 9 PM.

- Zouk, 17 Jiak Kim St, +65-67382988, [37]. Singapore's best-known nightclub and in fact a complex of 4 spaces: Zouk itself for harder dance music, Velvet Underground for loungier stuff, Phuture for experimental edge and the outside Wine Bar for chilling out. A full-entry ticket will set you back a rather pricey $35, but two drinks are included and the place is happening especially when foreign DJs are in town — which is more often than not!

Sleep
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Unless you're a shopping maven intent on maximizing time in Orchard Road's shopping malls, the riverside is probably the best place to stay in Singapore.

Mid-range
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There is a large cluster of older mid-range hotels on and near Havelock Rd at the western end of river, not the best location for sightseeing or shopping. SBS bus 51 from Havelock Rd offers a good escape route to Chinatown, Clarke Quay and Orchard. Note that in the center, the bus goes north up Eu Tong Sen Rd/Hill St, but returns south via North/South Bridge Rd.

- Carlton Hotel, 76 Bras Basah Road, +65-63388333, [38]. Very much a standard-issue, slightly older business hotel, but it's clean, comfortable and very well located. $200-.

- Copthorne King's, 403 Havelock Road, +65-67330011, [39]. . The former King's Hotel, given a thorough renovation when taken over by the Copthorne group and now looks (almost) brand new. Tower wing rooms are good, main wing less so. The primary downside is the somewhat inconvenient location near the west end of the river, although Mohammed Sultan is within striking distance. $150-.

- Holiday Inn Atrium, 317 Outram Road, +65-67330188, [40]. Formerly the Concorde Hotel, the 30-floor inner atrium is indeed impressive, but little else about this hotel is.

Splurge
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In addition to the hotels below, check out adjacent Marina Bay, which has a major cluster of high-end hotels.

- Fairmont Singapore, 80 Bras Basah Road (directly above Raffles Place MRT), +65-63397777, [41]. Formerly Raffles the Plaza and the world's tallest hotel, now neither but still one of Singapore's best hotels: recently refurbished, unbeatable location, good service. The South Tower rooms are newer than the North Tower. Pool shared with the adjacent Swissotel The Stamford and thus crowded at peak times. $300.

- Pan Pacific Singapore, 7 Raffles Boulevard (Marina Square), +65-63368111, [42]. A somewhat older hotel renovated in 2005, the most notable features are the 35-story atrium and the great skyline views from the aptly named Panoramic Balcony rooms. The pool and gym were renovated in 2006 and look sharp, but the rooms themselves, however, are nothing out of the ordinary. $220.

- Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Rd, +65-63371886, [43]. A Singaporean icon offering 5-star luxury in an colonial style, known as the birthplace of the Singapore Sling and the final stand of Singapore's last tiger, shot in the Billiards Room. Famed for super-attentive service, with more staff than guests, but needless to say, it's also by far the most expensive hotel in Singapore! $600.

There are some luxury hotels of note scattered elsewhere on the river.

- Fullerton Hotel, 1 Fullerton Square, +65-67338388, [44]. In the magnificently refurbished former Central Post Office, this is Raffles' closest competitor (in price as well) with an excellent location facing the Merlion on the south side of the river; the third-floor pool almost certainly has the best views in town. Rooms are modern in style and luxuriously furnished, but for the best views it's worth paying a little extra to avoid the Courtyard rooms and get a Quay or better. $500.

- Gallery Hotel, 76 Robertson Quay, +65-68498686, [45]. If you've ever wanted to spend the night in an IKEA showroom, this self-proclaimed Highly Individual Property is the place for you. No paintings hanging on the wall here, the name refers to the hotel's own style, all steel, glass, austere modern furniture and breakage-prone fancy electronics. Well located for visits to the 4 bars/clubs on premises and nightspots on Mohammed Sultan, but you'll be taking a taxi anywhere else. Bonus points for free Internet and Singapore's funkiest pool/human aquarium. $238.

- Grand Copthorne, 392 Havelock Road, +65-67330880, [46]. The flagship of the Millennium & Copthorne chain and the only luxury hotel at the west end, but unfortunately the pomp of the lobby and exterior are not matched by the spacious but otherwise somewhat dumpy rooms. $230.

- Novotel Clarke Quay, 177A River Valley Road (MRT Clarke Quay), +65-63383333, [47]. Formerly the New Otani, the hotel reopened in late 2005 after a major refurbishment. The hotel now boast of 401 newly renovated rooms each with magnificent and un-obstructed views, and state-of-the-art facilities. $120.

- Swissotel Merchant Court, 20 Merchant Road, +65-63372288, [48]. This large 476-room hotel has an excellent location on Clarke Quay right next to the MRT station, but the rooms are musty and those facing the river suffer from noise from partygoers whooping it up. $200.

Cope
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Laundry
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- Systematic Laundromat, 11 Unity Street #01-22, +65-67321438. One-day laundry service (no self-service available). $6 for 4 kg. Call ahead for pricing or they may charge you a hefty "tourist tax" of up to 200%.

- Wonder Wash Coin laundry, No. 1 Lorong 23 Geylang, +65-97862038, [49]. Self-service laundry.

- LaundryMart Express, 22 Boon Keng Road, #01-37, Boon Keng MRT Exit B, +65-62942256 (service@laundrymart.com.sg), [50]. 24 hour Self-service coin laundry (laundromat) available. Load+Wash+Fold:$10,10kg,2hour ready; 10am to 7pm.

District Orchard Road Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• Get around

• See

• Do

• Buy

Malls

Shops

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Understand
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Orchard Road is named after the nutmeg orchards that used to line it in the 1830s, one of them coincidentally belonging to a Mr Orchard. Large trees still shade the road, providing a modicum of relief from the heat. Fortunately, Orchard Road has an extensive network of underpasses that connect many of the malls providing even more shelter from the blistering equatorial heat and, on occasion, rain. Weekends in the area are often packed with locals and visitors alike out to consume en masse. Only at the eastern Bras Basah end do the shopping malls peter out, with some fine colonial architecture and a few of Singapore's top museums to be found instead.

The Christmas decorations along Orchard are mildly famous and entirely over the top, with reindeers cavorting through palm trees and gingerbread houses topped with fake snow.

Get in
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The MRT stations of Orchard, Somerset, Dhoby Ghaut and City Hall on the North-South Line follow the alignment of Orchard Rd. Change to the North-East Line at Dhoby Ghaut or the East-West Line at City Hall.

Get around
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Orchard Rd is walkable, at least allowing plenty of breaks in air-conditioned shopping centers. You can no longer cross the central Orchard/Scotts intersection on foot: instead, take the air-conditioned underground walkway system that links Orchard MRT/Ion Orchard to Wisma Atria, Ngee Ann City and Lucky Plaza (east), to CK Tang/Marriott (north), and to Shaw House and Wheelock Place (west).

See
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Three of Singapore's top museums are in Bras Basah, within striking distance of Dhoby Ghaut and Bras Basah MRT stations.

- Battle Box, Fort Canning Park. 10 AM-6 PM Tue-Sun. The former HQ of the British army during World War 2, now turned into an air-conditioned museum complete with animatronic figures retelling the events of the days before surrender. Nearest MRT station Dhoby Ghaut, but it's a steamy hike up the hill. $8.

- Istana, (next to Dhoby Ghaut MRT), [1]. 8:30 AM-6 PM. Completed in 1869, this Malay-Indian hybrid building was once the Government House of the colony of Singapore, before being repurposed on independence as the official residence of the President. The 100-acre grounds occupy some of Singapore's choicest real estate and incorporate several gardens and even a 9-hole golf course. There is a Change of guard ceremony every first Sunday of the month. The Istana is open to the public on only five days a year: Chinese New Year, Deepavali, Hari Raya Puasa, Labour Day and National Day. Non-Singaporeans $1.

- National Museum of Singapore, 93 Stamford Road, +65-63323659, [2]. Tue-Sun 10 AM-9PM. Formerly Singapore History Museum, recently refurbished from top to bottom with a new wing added. The star of the show is the permanent Singapore History Gallery, a 2800 sq.m. multimedia extravaganza covering six centuries of island history, navigated with a super-flexible, if occasionally somewhat confusing, interactive audio guide system that lets you choose the events and items to focus on. There are also four Living Galleries focusing on food, fashion, film and photography, plus various temporary exhibitions and a few nice cafes and restaurants. Permanent exhibition $10/5 adult/child.

- Singapore Art Museum, 71 Bras Basah Road (MRT Bras Basah), +65-63323222, [3]. 10 AM-7 PM daily. Modern art from both Singapore and the region. The permanent collection is lackluster, but exhibitions can be interesting. Guided tours in English at 11 AM, 2 PM. $3, free Friday evenings 6-9 PM.

There are few tourist attractions as such on Orchard Road itself, the thing to do here is shop, shop and shop! However, there are a few galleries of interest for photographers.

- 2902 Gallery, 11 Mount Sophia, Block B, #B2-09 (Staircase up the hill from The Cathay, near Dhoby Ghaut MRT), +65-63398655, [4]. The largest dedicated photo gallery in South-East Asia, with a focus on Singaporean talent. Hosts changing exhibitions including the yearly Singapore Int'l Photography Festival [5] plus workshops, lectures and more.

- epSITE, 501 Orchard Road #03-18/19 (Wheelock Place), +65-67364986, [6]. Daily 11 AM-9 PM. Also known as the Epson Imaging Gallery, this small space features changing photography exhibitions. Hardly worth a detour, but take a look if you're in the area. Free.

Do
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It's difficult to find anything more strenuous to do on Orchard than lugging around shopping bags, getting pampered at a spa and watching a movie.

- Andana@Orchard, 290 Orchard Road #06-19/26 (Paragon), +65-68369988. Daily 10 AM to 11 PM. Singapore's largest spa, with 22,000 sq.ft. of space, partly outdoors thanks to its rooftop location. Basic day package $82, including use of spa facilities and all you can eat/drink from the menu. Massages and treatments charged separately. Couples packages available.

- California Fitness Orchard, 1 Grange Rd (Somerset MRT), +65-68342100. Open 6 AM-midnight Mon-Sat, 8 AM-10 PM Sun. 35,000 ft and 3 densely packed floors of gym equipment smack dab in the middle of Orchard Rd. Has a reputation for being a gay cruising spot. Day pass $40.

- The Cathay, 2 Handy Road (near Dhoby Ghaut MRT), [7]. A modern shopping mall (partly) hiding behind a stately 1939 art-deco facade, the main draw here is the eponymous cinema on the top floor. The Picturehouse, Singapore's first and only arthouse cinema, shows movies uncut, but many are restricted to 21 and above.

- Estheva Spa, 2 Orchard Turn #03-25 (Orchard MRT), +65-67339300, [8]. Daily 10 AM to 10 PM. All sorts of aesthetic and spa treatments in an Italian-inspired interior. Advance booking advised. Popular with the ladies. Couple spa packages are also available.

- Damai, 10 Scotts Road, +65 6738 1234, [9]. Opened in September 2008, Damai is the new lifestyle centre at hotel Grand Hyatt Singapore, offering a spa, pool, fitness centre and healing treatments based on Chinese, Malay, Indian, and European traditions.

- Lucky Plaza, 304 Orchard Road Level 4 (Orchard MRT, Orchard Road exit). Various beauty salons can be found on the fourth floor. Facials, a wax and manipedies for a fraction of the cost at salons in the rest of the city. Get a stylish haircut at a full-service salon for about $10, even for ladies. The best salons accept most major credit cards to cater to the demand of tourists.

Buy
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Orchard Road and neighboring Scotts Road form Singapore's premier shopping district, with several kilometers of road lined on both sides by practically nothing but shopping malls. The latest round of frantic upgrading in 2008-2010 has seen half a dozen new malls open up and most of the rest renovate in an attempt to catch up.

Orchard Road also participates in the annual Great Singapore Sale[10] that is organized by the Singapore Tourism Board[11]. During this period, street events and late night shopping (till 11pm on Fridays and Saturdays) are held at selected malls, and tourists are entitled to additional privileges. The Great Singapore Sale 2011 is from 27 May to 24 July 2011.

Malls
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While most malls in Orchard are distinctly upmarket, there are one or two that still cater to the average Singaporean wallets. A selection of malls, from west (Orchard MRT) to east (Dhoby Ghaut MRT):

- Far East Plaza, 14 Scotts Road. Frequented mostly by teenagers, this mall is a bargain hunter's paradise slowly creeping upmarket. Not bad for unique clothes and accessories at reasonable prices.

- Wheelock Place, 501 Orchard Road (Orchard MRT). Notable primarily for the giant Borders bookstore on the ground level, there's also a smallish Marks & Spencer department store buried in the basement and a pretty good selection of restaurants.

- ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn (Orchard MRT), [12]. Opened 2009, this is the largest new shopping mall on Orchard in years, extending four floors both above and under ground. While the spacey, pulsating, neon-lit facade is dominated by high-street flagships for Louis Vuitton and co, the interior has plenty of more affordable options including Japanese retailers Uniqlo and Muji. The fourth floor has the ION Art gallery, while the basement 4 Food Opera food court, while a bit pricey by Singapore standards, is enormous and very popular. Located on levels 55 and 56, at 218 metres, ION Sky offers a 360-degree view from the highest point on Orchard Road. It houses an observatory and contemporary restaurant Salt grill, helmed by Australian chef Luke Mangan.

- CK Tangs, 320 Orchard Road (Orchard MRT), [13]. Singapore's very own old-school department store.

- Wisma Atria, 435 Orchard Road, [14]. Designer boutiques and international brands populate this architecturally fascinating mall.

- Lucky Plaza, 304 Orchard Road, [15]. Most visitors end up in Lucky Plaza thanks to the dubious street-level camera and electronics stores, which are legendary for ripoffs and poor customer service, and are best avoided unless you really know your stuff. However, there's more to the mall than that: cheap souvenirs (2nd floor), low cost salons that offer most services such as manicures, pedicures, facials, waxing and hair services (fourth floor), off-season designer perfumes and cosmetics (most floors) and a cheap and surprisingly good food court in the basement. Lucky Plaza is also the favorite hangout spot for the Filipino community and gets packed on weekends.

- Ngee Ann City/Takashimaya Shopping Centre, 391 Orchard Road, [16]. Where the tai-tais (wealthy ladies of leisure) hang out. Expensive branded goods on the first floors, more affordable shopping in the two basement floors. Also features Kinokuniya, Southeast Asia's largest bookstore, on the 3rd floor.

- Paragon, 290 Orchard Rd (opp Takashimaya). Long one of Singapore's flashiest malls, packed with Prada, Gucci and other luxury brands, although ION has stolen some of its thunder.

- The Heeren, 260 Orchard Rd, [17]. Trendy youth clothing

- Orchard Central, 181 Orchard Rd, [18]. Modern, soaring twelve-story mall with a funky series of outdoor escalators and nice views from the terraces. Floors 7 and above are devoted to food, with restaurants including Korean barbeque masters Nolboo and Japanese set meal specialist Ootoya. The mall also houses the world's tallest indoor Via Ferrata climbing wall, a collection of public art installations by acclaimed international artists and a 24/7-operational Roof Garden.

- 313@Somerset, 313 Orchard Road (Somerset MRT), [19]. 313@somerset is directly linked to the Somerset MRT station and features a concentration of mid-range retail and dining outlets. Retail options include local and global fashion labels including Zara, Uniqlo, New Look, Esprit and a Forever 21 flagship spanning 4 floors. There are also some popular dining options including a cluster of restaurants and lounges such as Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Restaurant, Kamado Japanese Wood Fire, Central Hong Kong Café, Flying Chillies and Trattoria Cuccina Italiana on Level 1.

- Plaza Singapura, 68 Orchard Road (Dhoby Ghaut MRT). Singapore's oldest air-conditioned shopping mall, located just above the MRT interchange and recently given a thorough facelift. Huge Carrefour multilevel hypermarket, numerous eating options and a large cinema complex on the top floors.

Shops
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- The Time of Tea, 304 Orchard Road #02-44 (Lucky Plaza), +65-68364675. Excellent quality Chinese tea for prices that are less than anywhere else in Singapore. Ask for May Teo or Beljean Ong.

Eat
toc

Orchard is a good place to sample not just Singaporean food, but food from all over the planet. That said, if you're pinching pennies, prices tend to be slightly inflated by Singaporean standards, but well, at least it's not as bad as Sentosa.

Budget
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Almost every shopping mall has its own food court, but for gourmet snacking, it's hard to beat the collection of shops and stands at Takashimaya's basement. Be careful though, those $2 squid balls won't fill you up.

- Asian Food Mall, 304 Orchard Road, Basement (Lucky Plaza). 10 AM-10 PM. One of the cheapest food courts in the district. Prices are about 30% cheaper than the food courts at nearby malls while still maintaining excellent Singapore standards. Stalls serve local and Asian fare: the chicken rice stall usually sells out well before closing and the ayam penyet is no slouch either. $3.

- Ayam Penyet Ria, 304 Orchard Road #04-25/26 (Lucky Plaza), +65-62357385, [20]. 11 AM-9 PM. Very popular Indonesian eatery specializing in ayam penyet or "smashed chicken", breaded, deep-fried and flattened, served with the fiery chili sambal of the name. For a less spicy treat, sample their excellent rawon (beef soup). $7.

- Food Republic, 435 Orchard Road 4F (Wisma Atria). Daily 10 AM to 10 PM. Food court done up as a series of hawker carts and decorated with various nostalgic knick-knacks. The food is a notch above average (try eg. the hokkien mee fried noodles, with a perennial queue snaking out in front), and so are the crowds. Slightly more expensive than the competition. $5-10.

- Es Teler 77, 14 Scotts Road, #05-82 (Far East Plaza). Daily 12 PM to 9 PM. Indonesian food, famous for its coconut milk and fruit ice desserts. Slightly pricier than its surroundings, which are small eateries serving cheap local food (for the area). Popular with locals. $5-10.

- Gyoza no Osho, 5 Koek Road (Cuppage Plaza). On the ground floor of a musty mall filled with dodgy Japanese karaoke joints, this greasy spoon joint specializing in ramen noodles and gyoza dumpling will make you sweat — partly because the soups are hot, partly because they don't have aircon. $10.

- Killiney Kopitiam, 67 Killiney Rd (Somerset MRT), [21]. A Singaporean legend now franchised across the island, this ordinary-looking coffeeshop continues to pack in the crowds for its famous kaya toast (a steal at $0.80 per slice), with the kaya itself also sold at $3/5 for a small/large jar. For lunch or dinner, try the more substantial chicken curry with grilled French bread ($4.50). S$1-5.

Mid-range
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- Big O, 501 Orchard Road #02-04/05 (Wheelock Place). Daily 11:30 AM-10:30 PM. Casual Western-style eatery best known for having some of the best desserts in town, including some great New York-style cheesecakes and the pungent Spike D durian cake. $5-10 (desserts), $10-20 (mains).

- Central, 391 Orchard Road B2F (Takashimaya), +65-67328196. Daily 10 AM-9:30 PM. Hip Hong Kong-style tea cafe offering both Chinese classics like rickshaw noodles as well as modern fare like baked rice with cheese and their infamous durian fried rice. Try the thousand layer tofu with pork floss ($4) and wash it down with some yin-yang (tea and coffee mixed together, $3). $5-10.

- Din Tai Fung, 290 Orchard Rd #B1-03/06 (Paragon). Daily 10 AM to 10 PM. The Singapore branch of the award-winning Taiwanese chain, serves some of the best xiao long bao ($8.50 per platter) this side of Shanghai. Expect to queue near mealtimes, but it's a big place and the queue moves fast. Second outlet at Wisma Atria.

- Lao Beijing, 68 Orchard Road #03-01 (Plaza Singapura), [22]. 11:30 AM-10 PM. Among Singapore's best places for Northern Chinese cuisine, particularly well known for their guotie and jiaozi dumplings. Can get expensive in the evenings, but the weekend High Tea buffet (Sat, Sun and holidays, 3-5 PM only) at S$13.80 per person is a deservedly popular steal — not only is there the traditional laid-out buffet, but you can also order dumplings from the menu.

- Shimbashi Soba, 290 Orchard Road #B1-41 (Paragon). The best Japanese soba noodles you'll find in Singapore, made by hand in the adjoining glass-walled workshop. The best time to come here is lunch, when you can get filling set meals for $15 or so. $10-20.

- Sakae Sushi, 501 Orchard Road #02-13 (Wheelock Place). A fairly happy compromise of price and quality, plates $1.90 each (except red premium plates at $6.90). All you can eat on weekdays 3-6 PM only for $16.90++. Tip: order off the menu if you don't see what you want, the price is still the same. $15-30.

- Soup Restaurant, 290 Orchard Rd #B1-44 (Paragon). Offers not only excellent Chinese-style soup, but also plenty of traditional Singaporean Chinese fare, including their trademark samsui chicken (slow-boiled chicken eaten wrapped in lettuce with garlic sauce). Eat a Chinatown Heritage Course ($50 for two) for lunch and take the leftovers home for dinner. Franchises throughout Singapore, including Suntec City and Changi Airport.

- Sushitei, 391 Orchard Road #02-13 (Takashimaya, hidden behind taxi stand), [23]. A popular chain of conveyor belt sushi joints, with the Takashimaya outlet tops for quality and popularity. You pay a slight premium here for the fresh ingredients, but at $2 and up per plate it's still a steal. Second outlet in Paragon.

Splurge
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Orchard Road is brimming with fiercely competitive restaurants. One easy option is Crystal Jade [24], a popular chain of Chinese restaurants with outlets in nearly every major shopping mall in Singapore, including Suntec City, Shaw House and Paragon.

- Chatterbox, 333 Orchard Rd (Meritus Mandarin 39F), +65-68316291. Possibly Singapore's most famous chicken rice, and at $30/plate after tax, certainly its most expensive — but you do get very generous portions, air-con, red-lacquered furniture and panoramic views over Orchard. (For the budget alternative, go to Mr Chicken Rice in the Downtown East mall next to the Singapore Flyer, run by Chatterbox's original chef and offering the same for $3!) Often full on weekends, so call ahead, or eat the same meal at the Observation Lounge on the level below. Frequent 1-for-1 promos for AmEx cardholders.

- Crystal Jade Palace, 391 Orchard Rd #04-19 (Ngee Ann City), +65-67352388. Lunch 11:30 AM-3 PM, dinner 6:30-10:30 PM. The flagship of the chain, which serves authentic Cantonese food. Dinner here is fairly expensive, but the set lunch for two is good value at $50. The dim sum during the lunch time is worth trying as well as the roasted meat and wonton noodles during lunchtime. Reservations recommended as queues can be as long as an hour. Lunch $25, dinner $50.

- Mezza9, 10-12 Scotts Rd 2F (Grand Hyatt), +65-67307189. Famous for their Sunday Munch, arguably the best of Singapore's many extravagant hotel brunches. Worth a splurge at $138 per person, including free-flow Perrier-Jouet champagne. 11:30 AM to 3 PM on Sundays only, reservations essential.

- Sabai, 391 Orchard Road #04-23 (Ngee Ann City). Authentic fine Thai cuisine cooked by a group of Thai chefs. Rather pricy for the food served, with a small buffet dessert table. Try the red and green curries and the stuffed chicken wings. Staples like pad thai and pineapple rice are also good. $50.

- Sushi Kikuzawa, 360 Orchard Road #02-13 (International Bldg), +65-67383833. Noon-3 PM, 6-10 PM daily. Tiny hole-in-the-wall sushi joint, but the ten counter seats here are packed every night thanks to their simple concept: pay a flat fee and the chef makes all the sushi you can eat. You can either let the chef pick, or order off a ten-page menu. Reservations highly advisable. Lunch $30, dinner $40, +$10 on weekends.

Drink
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Singapore's nightlife is concentrated just south of Orchard Rd by the riverside, but there are still a few notable nightspots. The largest cluster is Emerald Hill [25] opposite Somerset MRT, a beautifully restored cluster of shophouse-cum-bars.

- Alley Bar, 2 Emerald Hill, +65-67326966. Daily 5 PM to 2 AM or later. True to its name, this bar has been set up in an alley between two shophouses — not that you'd really notice from the slick modern decor and the endless parade of Singapore's nouveau riche. $10-15.

- Number 5, 5 Emerald Hill, +65-67320818, [26]. Mon-Sat noon-2 AM, Sun 5 PM-2 AM. Friendly bar housed in a 1910 Peranakan shophouse. Downstairs is loud, upstairs is quieter with a pool table. The cocktails are good, but for a fiery kick try their Chilli Vodka or its industrial-strength big brother, Chilli Padi Vodka.

A few places of interest lurk elsewhere along the strip.

- Orchard Towers, 400 Orchard Road. Undoubtedly Orchard Road's most notorious nightspot, this building is a Designated Red-Light Area famously summarized as "four floors of whores". The first floor bars are borderline legit and not too bad for a noisy drink, but the rest are outright sleazy — and the Thai "ladies" propositioning passersby in the hallways may not be ladies at all.

- Monkeys Cafe, 400 Orchard Road #01-20 (Orchard Towers), +65-67353707. Daily 11 AM-3 PM. Rock & roll themed bar serving cold beer, Oz hard cider and less hassle from the ladies. Indoor and outdoor seating, serves decent pub grub too.

- Casa Tartufo Ristorante, 583 Orchard Rd Forum Shopping Mall #01-17, +65 6836 4647, [27]. daily lunch & dinner. Classic atmosphere, seems like being in a Milanese restaurants and the food is divine. Their specialty is truffles but they also serve all the traditional Italian dishes. $38 lunch and $100 dinner.

Sleep
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Accommodation on Orchard Rd incurs a hefty premium for the location and is uniformly expensive (at least by Singapore standards). Cheaper rates are usually offered only by older hotels in varying states of decay.

Budget
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- YMCA International House, 1 Orchard Rd, +65-63366000, [28]. Forget your preconceived ideas of what a YMCA is - this is a hotel that also has dorm rooms. Air-con, TVs, fridge and attached bathrooms in all rooms, plus gym and rooftop pool. Rooms on the 2008-refurbished floor cost $5 extra, a worthwhile investment. History buffs should note that the previous YMCA building on this site was the headquarters of the notorious Japanese secret police Kempeitai during the Occupation, but the present structure dates from the 1980s. Dorm $30, single/twin $125/130.

Mid-range
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- New Cape Inn, No. 3 Seng Poh Road, 65 6536 9939, [29]. Air-conditioned guest accommodation , all equipped with Cable TV, Mini refrigerator and Coffee/ tea maker. Some of its facilities and services are CCTV camera, Restaurant and Currency exchange. From SGD 115.00.

- The Elizabeth, 24 Mount Elizabeth, +65-67381188, [30]. This somewhat tired tourist hotel doesn't have much of the promised "Old World Grandeur", but the location a short stroll off Orchard is good for the price and there's a waterfall to watch as you munch on the insipid breakfast buffet. $115.

- Orchard Parade Hotel, 1 Tanglin Rd, +65-667371133, [31]. This business hotel decorated in modern Mediterranean style is located at the starting end of Orchard Road, next to Forum Galleria. It is also within walking distance to the Botanic Garden and embassy district in Tanglin. $200.

- Rendezvous Hotel, 9 Bras Basah Rd, +65-63360220, [32]. Colonial style on the outside, modern facilities including pool on the inside. Lee Kuan Yew has been known to pop into the Straits Cafe upstairs for their famous nasi padang (rice buffet). $200.

- YWCA Fort Canning Lodge, 6 Fort Canning Rd, +65-63384222, [33]. Hotel-style accommodations at a mid-range price in a good location just off Orchard. Broadband Internet in all rooms, outdoor pool, tennis court. And no, you don't have to be young, female or Christian to stay here. Long-term stay rates also available if staying over a month. Single/twin $180/190.

- Hotel Bencoolen, 47 Bencoolen Street, singapore 189626, +65-63360822 (fax: +65-63362250), [34]. Located on the fringe of the main Orchard Road stretch and minutes away from the Central Business District by car. Getting around is easy with access to a network of buses and the MRT train system within walking distance. Leisure travellers will enjoy the proximity to shopping clusters at City Hall and Dhouby Ghaut while culture bugs will enjoy the Singapore Art Museum and bustling Little India down just the street. Single/twin $150/170.

Splurge
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If you want to splurge, there are two major styles to choose from: colonial hotels, harking back to the turn of the century, and modern hotels, firmly in the present.

- Concorde, 100 Orchard Road, +65-67338855, [35]. Formerly Le Meridien and long overdue for a renovation, the main selling points here are the central location and the reasonable prices. $250.

- Four Seasons, 190 Orchard Boulevard, +65-67341110, [36]. Centrally located, but tucked away on a quiet side street. Famed for its level of personal service, and the modern facilities include the only air-conditioned tennis courts in the country. $400.

- Fullerton. The former Singapore Post Office, one of the most beautiful buildings in town, and one of the few true 5-star hotels.

- Goodwood Park Hotel, 22 Scotts Rd, +65-67377411, [37]. The place to stay if you want the Raffles experience without the crowds (and with a slightly less breathtaking price tag). Supremely lovely garden pool. Be sure to opt for the older main building, not the modern annex. $300.

- Grand Hyatt Singapore, 10 Scotts Rd, +65-67381234, [38]. Hyatt's Singapore flagship is Orchard Road's standard-bearer for sleek modern swank. $300.

- Hilton Singapore, 581 Orchard Road, +65-67372233, [39]. Your standard-issue Hilton with everything you'd expect but not much more. The steep price comes mostly from the excellent location a few minutes walk from Orchard MRT. $300.

- Marriott, 320 Orchard Rd, +65-67355800, [40]. In the perfect location for shoppers, right at the center of Singapore at the intersection of Orchard and Scotts, and with Tang's department store in the basement and an underground walkway to Orchard MRT. A little older and mustier than the five-star options, but the yum cha (dim sum buffet) on Sundays is to die for. $300.

- Meritus Mandarin, 333 Orchard Road, +65-67374411, [41]. Slightly older but very centrally located hotel popular among businessmen and sightseers alike. $250.

- Quincy, 22 Mount Elizabeth, +65-67385888, [42]. Opened 2009, this supermodern boutique hotel is tucked away on a quiet hill 5 min from Orchard Road. Insane 12th floor pool half-suspended in the air. Gym, sauna, spa. Free minibar and all three meals included in most packages. $250.

- Raffles. Singapore's most famous hotel, home of the Long Bar and the Singapore Sling. A true luxury hotel in a must-see colonial structure.

- Shangri-La, 22 Orange Grove Road, +65-67373644, [43]. One of the world's most luxurious resort hotels. Beautiful grounds and pools. 755 guest rooms and suites. The location is a bit of hike though. $400.

- St. Regis Singapore, 29 Tanglin Road (off west end of Orchard Rd), +65-65066888, [44]. Singapore's newest superluxury hotel is a rather uncomfortable fusion of replica 1910s style (crystal chandeliers and leather sofas) with plasma TVs and jet massage showers. Pool, spa, 24-hour butler service, private art collection including works by Botero and Miro. $600.

Contact
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There are internet cafes on almost every floor of Lucky Plaza on Orchard Road that charge only S$2/hour.

Other locations include Capitol Building at the corner of North Bridge Rd and Stamford Rd.

- Singapore Visitors Centre, 160 Orchard Rd (junction of Cairnhill and Orchard Rds), 1-800-7362000 (tollfree, 24 hours). 8 AM-10:30 PM daily. Oodles of free information on Singapore. Tourism Court, at the other end of Orchard Rd, is a similar but smaller operation.

District Marina Bay Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

Understand
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The label "Marina Bay" is a little fuzzy. Technically, it's the body of water created by reclaiming land around the mouth of the Singapore River and blocked off from the sea by the Marina Barrage, but Singaporeans associate the name "Marina" with the Marina Square shopping mall and the many hotel developments around it on the north shore of the river. The half to the south of the river, or Marina South, has to date been just empty land dotted with construction sites, but its centerpiece, the Marina Bay Sands casino and convention center, opened in April 2010 and there's lots more to come. In this article, Marina Bay is simply defined as everything to the east of Shenton Way and Esplanade Drive.

Get in
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Transportation to Marina Bay remains a little disjointed. The northern half is best accessed through the shiny new Circle Line MRT (opened April 2010), which has stations at Esplanade (Suntec City) and Promenade (Millenia), or you can hike for 15 min through the underground CityLink shopping mall from Raffles City (City Hall MRT, where the North-South and East-West line intersect).

Getting to the southern half is more difficult. The nearest MRT station to Marina Bay Sands is Promenade, from where you can walk across the Helix pedestrian bridge in about 15 minutes, or connect to any of buses 97, 106 or 133. The same buses also serve Marina Bay MRT, which (despite the name) isn't particularly convenient for anything else just yet. However, there are no less than three new MRT lines in the area under construction, all scheduled to open in 2012-2014.

From the airport, Marina Bay Sands hotel guests can use a 24-hour shuttle bus for free, but all others need to pay S$25 — nearly the same price as a taxi.

See
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Marina Bay Sands hosts a slew of attractions.

- Marina Bay Sands Casino, [1]. 24 hours. Singapore's second casino, larger and glitzier than its family-oriented competitor on Sentosa, with 600 gaming tables and 1500 slot machines. Visitors can enter for free, but locals and residents have to pay $100 just to get in. An age limit of 21 applies, and you'll need to bring ID.

- Sands SkyPark, Marina Bay Sands (Tickets from hotel lobby, Tower 3), [2]. 10 AM-10 PM. Singapore's single most dramatic landmark, the SkyPark defies gravity, perched 55 stories above the ground like a surfboard on top of the three hotel towers. Views aside, for time being there's not much bang for your buck though: the pool is open to guests only. The alternative to paying the entry fee is to visit the restaurants (see Eat) for lunch, which will set you back around $50, but you can freely explore the SkyPark afterwards. $20/14 adults/children.

Do
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- Esplanade Theatres on the Bay, 1 Esplanade Drive (City Hall MRT), +65-68288377, [3]. Singapore's equivalent of Sydney's famous Opera House, except that the two-lobed spiky Singaporean version deliberately bears a striking resemblance to the durian, a tropical fruit related to the jackfruit which is notorious for its sharp odour. Opera, dance, classical concerts and similar entertainment is offered daily. Prices for the main entertainment start from $20-30 for poor seats, up to over a $100 for good ones. For the traveller on a budget, there are usually free productions on the outdoor riverside stage on weekends.

- Singapore Flyer, 30 Raffles Avenue (30 Raffles Avenue), +65-63333311, [4]. 8:30 AM-10:30 PM. Singapore's newest tourist trap, this 150-meter-tall observation wheel modeled on the London Eye is no less than the world's tallest. One rotation takes about 30 minutes, and for an extra $22 you can sip on a cocktail while admiring the views, but expect to share your capsule with as many as 28 people unless you stump up a cool $1,000 for a private ride. Discounts are widely available, grab a brochure from any tourist information counter. $29.50/20.65 adult/child.

- Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix (Formula 1 Singapore Night-time Grand Prix), Marina Bay Street Circuit, Singapore., [5]. The Singapore Grand Prix is a motor race, currently on the calendar of the FIA Formula One World Championship. The first race held at the Marina Bay Street Circuit was the 15th round of the 2008 FIA Formula One World Championship. It was also the first, and thus far only, night-time event in Formula One history. Night races are held in September, in conjunction with a comprehensive entertainment schedule. Officially known as the Grand Prix Season Singapore, the lead-up to the final race will include parties, race-themed events, music concerts, exhibitions and dining & shopping experiences.

- ArtScience Museum, [6]. $30 adult, $17 child.

Buy
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- Millenia Walk, 9 Raffles Blvd (Promenade MRT), +65-68831122, [7]. Upscale mall known for housing Singapore's best collection of luxury watch retailers.

- Suntec City, 3 Temasek Boulevard (Esplanade MRT), +65-68252667, [8]. Daily 10 AM-10 PM. At the northeastern edge of the CBD is Singapore's 2nd largest shopping mall, featuring the Fountain of Wealth, reputedly the world's largest fountain. If connecting to the Circle Line is inconvenient, the other way in is to take the MRT to City Hall and then follow the signs in the underground CityLink mall, a 15-min air-conditioned walk.

- The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, [9]. The Sands' shopping mall, chock full of expensive brands geared at stripping jackpot winners of their earnings, plus a dinky little canal where you can go for a spin in a sampan boat at $8/person. Will feature 350 shops when complete in 2011, but still a construction zone for time being.

Eat
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Budget
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- Gluttons Bay, Esplanade Mall #01-15, +65-63367025. Daily 6 PM-3 AM. Run by famous foodies Makansutra, this outdoor eatery puts together 12 of Singapore's most famous hawkers. Breezy location by the river, great views of the city and pretty good grub make this a winner. The food here is a tourist-friendly reproduction of some of Singapore's best, though you can usually find better (and usually cheaper) versions in the heartlands. $5-30.

Mid-range
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Splurge
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Marina Bay Sands is bringing in a constellation of big names, with Daniel Boulud, Mario Batali, Wolfgang Puck, Santi Santamaria, Guy Savoy and Tetsuya Wakuda all opening restaurants in the complex.

- Ku De Ta Skybar, Marina Bay Sands SkyPark, +65-66887688, [10]. noon-3 PM, 6 PM-2 AM. A branch of the famous bar/restaurant in Bali, although there are already lawsuits flying over the name. The restaurant's tapas-style food is by most accounts overpriced for what you get, but it's still probably a better deal than forking out $50 for entry to the bar (one drink included). Lunch $30-85, dinner $100-200.

- Sky @ 57, Marina Bay Sands SkyPark, +65-66888857, [11]. 7-10 AM, noon-2:30 PM, 6-10:30 PM. Modern Asian food by celebriy chef Justin Quek and some of the best views in town. The three-course $48 lunch, which includes access to the SkyPark, is probably the best-value way of checking out the views from here. Lunch $48, dinner $80+ (minimum charge).

There are a few interesting places around Marina Square as well.

- Shiraishi, 7 Raffles Ave #03-01 (Ritz-Carlton), +65-63383788. noon-2 PM, 6-10 PM. A tiny place in a quiet corner of the hotel, you won't stumble into this intimidatingly Japanese place by accident, but the restaurant's many regulars come here for some of the best and most consistent sushi and sashimi this side of Tokyo. Lunch sets are good value, but ordering à la carte for dinner can be very expensive indeed. For connoisseurs. Lunch $30-85, dinner $100-200.

Drink
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Nightlife option in Marina Bay are sparse, but Pangaea is set to open its first Asian megaclub at Marina Bay Sands by the end of 2010.

Sleep
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- Conrad Centennial, 2 Temasek Blvd, +65-63348888, [12]. New and impeccably tasteful hotel, located next Suntec City but a bit far from the MRT. Very good value for a 5-star. $290.

- Marina Bay Sands, +65-66888868, [13]. The three "card decks" of the Marina Bay Sands will house nearly 2,500 rooms offering some of the best views in the city. Soft-launched in April 2010, but it will be a while until the entire complex is open — expect construction noise until at least 2011, and initial reviews have been full of complaints about glitches small and large. The one advantage to staying here, though, is access to the infinity edge pools atop the SkyPark. From $500.

- Ritz-Carlton Millenia, 7 Raffles Ave, +65-63378888, [14]. Modern and impeccably stylish, with fantastic full-wall skyline views, even from the bathroom, for rooms on the Marina Bay side. (Don't worry, it's one-way glass.) All rooms are large and equipped with frills like a pillow in the bathtub. Gym, spa, pool and a popular Sunday champagne brunch. Recommended. $400.

Contact
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District Bugis and Kampong Glam Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• Get around

• See

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Understand
toc

Bugis has a colorful past. Originally named after the bloodthirsty race of pirates who prowled in the Straits before the arrival of the British, the area where Bugis Junction now stands was the original home of Singapore's small Hainanese community, famous for their large contribution to Singapore's culinary culture, before they moved to Beach Road in the early 20th century to make use of the docks and seafront. The same area was also home to Singapore's Japanese community before World War II, and was originally populated by girls from poorer parts of Japan who came to Singapore to work as prostitutes. The Japanese community then grew and in their heyday just prior to World War II, they were running many businesses and even had their own school and newspaper. However, the British repatriated all ethnic Japanese in Singapore after World War II, and did not allow any ethnic Japanese to enter Singapore for the next few years, thus spelling a temporary end for the Japanese community in Singapore. (The Japanese came back eventually, but these days they hang out around Robertson Quay.)

For a long time after the war, the area was Singapore's equivalent of Patpong, a red-light district known for its bars and transvestite prostitutes or katies (the anglicized version of the Thai kathoey). However, in 1985 the area was redeveloped with a vengeance, turning it into a sanitized shopping experience for the whole family.

Neighboring Kampong Glam, also known by the name of its main thoroughfare Arab Street, was where Singapore's Arab traders settled in the founding days of the colony, and was also the part of town allocated to the Malays when Raffles drew up his town plan. But here too, the original inhabitants fled in the 1920s as real-estate prices drove through the roof, and today the heart of Muslim Singapore beats in Geylang Serai on the East Coast.

So what's left then? A slice of modern Singapore at its most hyperactive: hundreds upon hundreds of shops and restaurants, several attractive promenades and a bazaar selling the cheapest T-shirts in town. Head here on a weekend to experience Singaporean consumerism at its finest.

Get in
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The Bugis and Lavender MRT stations on the East-West line are the primary entry points into the district. If arriving by bus from Malaysia, you'll most likely be deposited at either the Queen St bus terminal or Golden Mile Complex, which lie on the edges of the area.

If exiting at Bugis, the key roads are Rochor Rd and Victoria St. Walk north on Victoria St until you spot the golden domes of the Sultan Mosque; turn left here for Arab St, or keep walking north for Lavender MRT. Alternatively, head west on Rochor Rd to reach Little India, within easy walking distance; or head south on Victoria St to return to Orchard Road.

Get around
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The pedestrian sections of Albert St and Waterloo St make exploring the area on foot a pleasure. Getting to Kampong Glam from Bugis is a slightly longer hike though, hop on any northbound bus on Victoria Rd for a few stops to shortcut the distance.

See
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Except for the odd mosque or temple there are few attractions per se in Bugis. Do as the Singaporeans do and window-shop your way through, stopping for quick eats every now and then.

- Kwan Im Thong Hood Cho, 178 Waterloo St. Dedicated to Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. According to legend, wishes made in here come true, which would explain why it's always packed. The procedure goes like this: enter, light some joss sticks, pray, then shake a container of cham si(bamboo sticks) until one falls out. Get a free matching slip with verses (also in English) explaining your fate, and maybe take it to one of the resident soothsayers for more explanation. Free, although voluntary donations are accepted.

- Malay Heritage Centre, 85 Sultan Gate, [1]. Mon-Sat 10 AM-6 PM. Set on the grounds of beautifully restored Istana Kampong Glam, the site looks gorgeous from the outside but despite some half-hearted attempts at whiz-bang multimedia, the museum inside is rather disappointing. Free entry onto the grounds, $3 for the museum.

- Sultan Mosque, 3 Muscat St (off North Bridge Rd). 9 AM-1 PM, 2-4 PM daily. Also known as Masjid Sultan and the largest mosque in Singapore, the building is easily identified thanks to its golden domes, but there's not much to see inside. Note that shorts, short skirts or sleeveless T-shirts are not permissible attire, but you can borrow a cloak if needed. Free.

- Hajjah Fatimah Mosque, 4001 Beach Road. Also known as Masjid Hajjah Fatimah, it is probably Singapore's second most important mosque historically after Sultan Mosque. It was named after an aristocratic Malay woman who donated money to build it. Its design is a mix of local Malay Muslim and colonial British architecture. This minaret tower is also worth a look as it leans slightly off-centre towards the main prayer hall. As with all mosques, revealing clothing should be avoided. Free.

- Sri Krishnan, 152 Waterloo St. A Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu. Right next door to Kuan Yin Thong Hood Cho, and there's a steady stream of Chinese visitors hedging their bets by making offerings to the Hindu gods too. Free.

Buy
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Bugis in particular is all about shopping these days!

- Bugis Junction, 200 Victoria Street (MRT Bugis), [2]. Singapore's teenage haven, built around the restored shophouses of Hylam and Malay Streets, covered with a roof for shopping in any weather. Anchor tenants include department store BHG and the minimalist Japanese home decoration shop Muji (BHG 2F); also check out the ever-surprising fountain in the middle of Bugis Square. The basement has a good selection of cheap to midrange eateries, and the Food Junction foodcourt on the 3rd floor is a cut above the usual.

- Iluma, 201 Victoria St (opp Bugis Junction). The latest mall in Bugis, aimed squarely at the same teen market as Bugis Junction and housing more or less the same shops, plus an 9-screen Film Garde [3] cineplex. Worth a look at night, when the panels outside pulse and shift in an impressive light show.

Right across Victoria St, Bugis Street no longer has bars and transvestites, but it does have a bazaar that sells all sorts of vaguely touristy knick-knacks. This is the cheapest place in Singapore to buy T-shirts for family back home, although the quality of those $2 shirts is pretty much what you'd expect. If you haven't sampled tropical fruits yet, take a look at the fruit stalls at the other end.

- ButtOn Trendy Undies, bazaar, 2nd floor. Sells Singapore's funkiest collection of underwear. How about Hello Kitty panties or a Funky Year of the Monkey thong? All here and more!

If you continue walking straight through Bugis Street, you'll reach the Albert Street and Waterloo Street pedestrian mall. Browse through shops offering Buddhist paraphernalia and take a peek at the two temples on Waterloo St. Keep going straight to reach electronics haven Sim Lim Square and beyond it Little India.

- Sin Chew Chinese Cultural Products Supermart, 192 Waterloo St. True to the name, this store packs in vast quantities of Buddhas and Confucian deities, glittering in gold, blinking lights and all shades of kitsch. Note the statue of Hotei the "Laughing Buddha" outside — there is a steady crowd trooping up to rub his big belly, hoping to catch some of his good luck.

Like Little India and Chinatown, Kampong Glam has been restored, refurbished and new life breathed into it, bringing back the former colour and vibrancy of the area. Rows of conserved shophouses can be found in Arab Street, Baghdad Street and Bussorah Street. Many of these shophouses have new tenants such as design and IT firms, art galleries, crafts and curios shops, food caterers and restaurants. They blend in with traditional businesses like textile and carpet shops, antiques and handicrafts shops including those selling traditional games, blacksmiths, and shops selling religious items used by Muslims. On Haji Lane, local independent fashion boutiques and quirky little shops offer a unique shopping experience. It has in recent years emerged as a prominent location for both second-hand clothing and trendy street fashion, featuring the works of both local designers and imported wares from Japan and the States.

Kampong Glam is also an area dotted with good restaurants, from Malaysian coffee shops and bakeries to fine modern European dining, like Le Pont De Vie. Many of the stores on Arab Street specialize in batik and silk. Be prepared to bargain.

- Army Market, Beach Rd (Golden Mile Hawker Centre). Sells surplus equipment from the Singapore Armed Forces. Mostly popular with local soldiers shopping for replacements, but also of interest to low-budget camping enthusiasts or camouflage fetishists.

- Sungei Road Thieves Market, Sungei Rd (Bugis MRT). This flea market is open daily but is most active on weekend afternoons. It may not be as polished as other flea markets in Singapore but if you look carefully, you might spot hidden treasures in amongst the junk.

Eat
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Bugis has a wide selection of restaurants catering to every taste. A highlight is the area near Arab Street, which specializes in halal (Muslim) food with quite a few Middle Eastern eateries too, most of which offer shisha water pipes as well. Golden Mile Complex, on Beach Rd, is favored by the local Thai population and consequently serves the cheapest and most authentic Thai food in town.

Budget
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There is a large hawker centre at the intersection of Albert and Waterloo Sts, and plenty of others scattered through the area.

- Deli Moroccan, 30 Bussorah Street, +65-91215121. Run by a Malay-Moroccan couple, this no-frills eatery serves up the best couscous and tagines in Singapore at ridiculously low prices — the most expensive dish on the menu is $6.50. Show up early, since service is slow and they tend to run out of the good stuff, and avoid on rainy days since there's very little indoor seating. $5.

- Golden Mile Claypot Rice, Golden Mile Food Center #01-65 (Beach Road). A humongous claypot bowl packed with rice, chicken and thick dark sauce will cost you just $5, but prepare to wait while they make it. You may want to opt out of the super-salty dried fish if you're not previously familiar with the stuff though. $5.

- Sajis Indian Food, Blk 261 Waterloo St #01-29, Stall 12. Daily, morning-7 PM, closed last Monday of the month. Known for its Indian rojak, deep-fried goodies served with an amazing peanut dip. Halal. Around $3/plate.

- Zam Zam, 699 North Bridge Rd, +65-62987011. One of Singapore's best-known restaurants for all sorts of Muslim-Malay food. Celebrating their 100th year operation in 2008. Try their legendary murtabak, a type of stuffed pancake eaten with curry, although the nasi briyani spiced rice is also pretty good. $5-.

Mid-range
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- Next Door Cafe, 34 Arab Street. Tues-Thurs & Sun. 12pm-12am, Fri & Sat 12pm-1am. A european style cafe perfect for pizzas, sandwiches and salads. Also offers a wide range of alcoholic & soft drinks. Books, magazines and boardgames also available. Perfect place to chill out for lunch, dinner & any time in between! Place does not exist anymore; not sure if the place has been renamed.

- Ajisen, 200 Victoria Street, Parco Bugis Junction 01-01. Daily noon-10 PM. A Japanese chain offering reasonably authentic Japanese ramen noodles — definitely worth trying if all you've had before are the instant kind. $10/bowl.

- Sofra Turkish Café & Restaurant, 100 Beach Road #02-42/44 (Shaw Tower), +65-6291-1433, [4]. Somewhat localized but cheap and tasty Turkish treats. $10-20.

- Diandin Leluk, 5001 Beach Rd #01-67/68 (Golden Mile Complex). Authentic greasy spoon Thai food by Thais for Thais, so steer clear if you can't handle the spicy stuff. The phad thai here is probably both the cheapest and the best in town. $5-10.

- Sufi Turkish Restaurant, 48 Arab Street. Authentic Turkish cuisine in the heart of Arab Street, Sufi serves up some of the best kebabs in town. Get away from the crowd and ask to sit in the back garden area! Shisha is also available at $12.

- Le Pont de Vie, 26 Kandahar Street (near Sultan Mosque), +65-62388682. Noon-2 PM, 6:30-10 PM. This relaxing retro styled shop house serves Mediterranean cuisine, with an unusual twist and good wines at reasonable prices. $20.

- Seafood Harvest Restaurant, 200 Victoria Street Singapore, Parco Bugis Junction Level 02-49. A seafood restaurant that offers set lunch menus for $9.80 which is the most popular menu item, they also offer an array of other fresh seafood from crabs, oysters, lobsters and salads.

Splurge
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- Olive Tree, 80 Middle Road Level 1 (InterContinental Singapore), +65-63387600. Serving Mediterranean cuisine, it has seafood and brunch buffets. Nice ambience but prices are a little high. $30 onwards.

Drink
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For a district once known by sailors as Boogie Street, modern-day Bugis is woefully short on dedicated places to drink, although you can of course get a cold beer at any hawker centre. Perhaps a better (if non-alcoholic) option is to kick back on one of Arab Street's many cafes with an Arab-style waterpipe (shisha) and a glass of mint tea. Figure on $10 for a pipeful.

- Blu Jaz Cafe, 11 Bali Lane, +65-62923800, [5]. One of the few places in Kampong Glam that serve alcohol, including a long list of beers, and while food is served as well (pastas and Western-style mains $12-15), the main draws here are the laid-back ambience and the live music, which runs the gamut from rock to jazz. Grab a drink, a shisha and a seat outside on the sidewalk, screened from passing cars by a thicket of greenery, and just chill; or if you want to get your groove on, there's a DJ and dancefloor on the 2nd floor. Very popular on weekends.

- Cafe Le Caire, 39 Arab Street, +65-62920979, [6]. Daily 10 AM-5 AM. The Middle Eastern food here is somewhat localized, but comes in generous portions — $15 for the mezze set is easily enough for two — but the main draw is the shisha ($12) and the vast tea menu. The cafe now sprawls across four shophouses and at night sets up tables on sidewalks all around as well, but it can still be hard to find a seat on weekends. No alcohol served.

- Divine, 600 North Bridge Road (Parkview Square), +65-63964466. Inside the Gothamesque Parkview Square building and offering a collection of 3000 wine bottles stacked 12 meters high, winged waitresses are hoisted up on a rope to fetch the better stuff. Now open to all, but dress to impress. Live jazz most nights, bottles from $80.

- Next Door Cafe, 34 Arab Street (off Beach Road), +65 6291 1351, [7]. Tue-Sun noon-midnight. Low-key cafe with 40 types of beer and good thin-crust pizza. No air-con.

Sleep
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A few hotels are scattered about Bugis and Kampong Glam, although backpackers might wish to head to neighboring Little India instead.

Budget
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- Cozy Corner Guesthouse, 490 North Bridge Rd, +65-63388826, [8]. A/C. Internet. Dorms $12-$17, rooms $36-60.

- Bugis Backpackers, 162B Rochor Road (within Bugis Village), [9]. Well located and run by a former backpacker. But slightly overpriced considering the facilities, and the staff can be a bit rude. Dorm bed $25.

- Sleepy Sam's, 55 Bussorah St (Near Sultan Mosque), [10]. Nice location and very friendly staff. Dorm bed $28.

Mid-range
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- Harbour Ville Hotel, 512 Kampong Bahru Road, +65-62712771, [11]. 100 guest rooms, all equipped with air-conditioning and water heating system, and telephone services. Facilities and services are gym, concierge services and car parking facilities. From SGD 125.00.

- Beach Hotel Singapore, 95 Beach Rd, +65-63367712, [12]. A 5-minute walk away from the Bugis MRT. Starts at $100.

- Golden Landmark Hotel, 390 Victoria Street, +65-62972828, [13]. checkin: 18-06-2008; checkout: 28-06-2008. A comfortable if aging 3-star hotel with a nice pool deck, located next to the Raffles Hospital. $120. (,10 days)

- Ibis Singapore, 170 Bencoolen St, +65-65932888, [14]. Opened 2008, this is the French economy chain's first hotel in Singapore. 538 basic but comfortable rooms. From $121.

- Park View Hotel, 81 Beach Rd, +65-63388558, [15]. Standard-issue business hotel. The cheapest rooms have no windows. $98.

- South East Asia Hotel, 190 Waterloo St, +65-63382394, [16]. Cheap and comfortable hotel in Bugis on the Waterloo Street pedestrian mall, a 5-min stroll from Bugis MRT and around the corner from Sim Lim Square. Double: $100, Triple: $118.

Splurge
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- InterContinental Singapore, 80 Middle Rd (MRT Bugis), +65-63387600, [17]. Swanky modern hotel done up in an attractive pseudo-colonial shophouse style, well located in Bugis Junction itself. $380.

Contact
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- Sun Byrd, #01-21 The Bencoolen, 180 Bencoolen St (opp Sim Lim). Broadband Internet for $1.20/30 minutes.

District Chinatown Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

Malls

Shops

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

Bars and pubs

Tea

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

Get in
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Exit A (Pagoda Street) of North-East MRT line's Chinatown station will deposit you right in the heart of the action. Outram Park, Tanjong Pagar and Raffles Place are also all within walking distance, as is Clarke Quay and the Singapore River to the north.

See
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Chinatown's primary attraction is the town itself, composed as it is of restored shophouses full of strange little shops selling everything from plastic Buddhas to dried seahorses. Wander at random and see what you can find!

- Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, 288 South Bridge Rd, [1]. 9 AM-6:30 PM. Towering above southern Chinatown, this four-story temple was completed only in 2007. The imposing main hall hosts a 27-foot statue of Maitreya Buddha, and the scared relic itself, reputedly one of Buddha Shakyamuni's teeth, can be found on the fourth floor (visible only during daily ceremonies at 9-11 AM, 2-3:30 PM, 6:30-8 PM). On the roof is the 10,000 Buddhas Pagoda, hosting a large Tibetan-style prayer wheel. Free.

- Chinatown Heritage Centre, 48 Pagoda St, [2]. 9 AM-8 PM daily. An excellent museum chronicling how Chinatown came to be and the privation suffered by early migrants. The centre is on the left if you walk straight from the Pagoda St exit of Chinatown MRT station. $10.00/6.30 adult/child.

- Jamae Mosque, 218 South Bridge Rd. One of Singapore's oldest mosques, built in the 1830s by Tamil Muslims in an Indian style. Note the stepped minarets outside. Free.

- Pinnacle@Duxton Skybridge, 1G Cantonment Rd (10 min from Outram Park MRT), [3]. Daily 9 AM-10 PM. Singapore's tallest public housing project has a 50th story viewing deck that offers some of the best city views around at a fraction of the cost of the Singapore Flyer. $5, but payment must be made by ez-link card; enter via Block 1G, Level 1 (next to bus stop).

- Red Dot Design Museum, 28 Maxwell Road, [4]. Fri-Tue 11 AM-6 PM, Wed-Thu closed. Formerly the traffic police HQ, now a design center painted firehouse red with a museum devoted to contemporary design. $5/3 adult/child.

- Singapore Coin and Notes Museum, 2 Trengganu Street, Level 3 (Enter via Pagoda St, across from the Chinatown Heritage Centre), 6222 2486, [5]. 10am-8pm daily. Tiny little museum tucked away across the Chinatown Heritage Centre; the entrance is well-hidden, but generally marked out by nondescript display cases. Managed by the Singapore Mint, it features local currency, commerative coins, a history of coinage, and the coin-making process. Not exactly a must-see, but a nice little distraction if you're in the area. $10/$6 adult/child.

- Sri Mariamman Temple, 244 South Bridge Rd. Singapore's oldest and most important Hindu temple and worth a visit for the intricately carved gopuram (statuary above the entrance), which gave adjacent "Pagoda Street" its name. This is an active temple, so take off your shoes and don't disturb the worshippers. The Thimithi fire-walking festival is held here one week before Deepavali, usually Oct/Nov. Free, but photo/video permit $3/6.

- Thian Hock Keng Temple, 158 Telok Ayer St, +65-64234616. The oldest Hokkien temple in Singapore, dating back to 1821, although the structure was thoroughly refurbished in 2000. The brightly colored, elaborate facade was constructed with ironwork from Scotland, tiles from England and the Netherlands, and dragon-ornamented granite pillars from China. Free.

Do
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Probably the most strenuous activity in Chinatown is avoiding touting tailors — which, incidentally, is illegal and can be reported to the police.

- Rustic Nirvana, 25 Cantonment Road (Outram Park MRT, exit H), +65-62279193, [6]. Balinese-style spa with over 80 face and body treatment options, including the inimitably named Kung Fu Bouncing Herbs. Ladies only.

- Toy Factory Theatre Ensemble, [7]. A theater group that constantly pushes the limits of free expression in Singapore. Performances at the Attic (21 Tanjong Pagar Rd, 4F) and the Theatrette (17A Smith St).

- Qimantra, 83A Club Street, +65-2215691, [8]. Traditional Chinese remedial massage in a hip modern setting. Treatment prices range from $30 (30min) to $120 (2hrs).

- Spahaven, 45-46 Amoy St, +65 62212203, [9]. Mon-Sat 11 AM-9 PM. Spread over 3,500 sq ft in a charmingly restored shophouse, this day spa offers hair removal (IPL/AFT) for women and men, waxing and skin treatments, with jazz and bossanova playing in the background.

- Living Wellness, 24A Pagoda St, 62354454, [10]. 10 am - 9 pm. Colon hydrotherapy, coffee enema and far infra-red sauna in a private and relaxing environment.

- Bath Culture Foot Therapy (Bath Culture), 59 Temple Street Chinatown, 62266289, [11]. 12 noon - 12 midnight. At Bath Culture, the timeless art of inspiring health and inner well-being has been perfected. Warm up your body with a soothing foot bath served in a traditional wooden tub, ideal after a hard day’s work. Combining herbal remedies and century-old traditions, our foot baths uses natural ingredients like black plum, fresh milk and green tea for its curative effects. Followed by an oriental foot massage, feel your muscles being kneaded and the tension seep away from your body as you drift off to soothing oriental music and enter a realm of blissful happiness and total relaxation.

Buy
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The central streets of Chinatown around the pagoda are packed with stalls selling all sorts of Chinese trinkets aimed squarely at tourists. There is also a cluster of (expensive) antique shops on South Bridge Rd. For Chinese handicrafts, antiques, fashion items, home accessories and Chinese medicine aimed more at the locals, poke into any of the numerous shopping malls.

Chinatown is made up of pre-war shophouses, home to merchants who have been hawking the same wares for years – bales of fine silk, traditional handicrafts, and gold and jade jewellery. At the junction of Eu Tong Sen Street and Upper Cross Street, a large Chinese emporium Yue Hwa stocks an array of Chinese products such as tea, medicinal herbs, food, household items, antiques and traditional Chinese clothes such as the cheongsam.

During Chinese New Year, the Chinatown Food Market buzzes with activities like lion dances and other street performances. A large variety of stalls are set up on Pagoda, Smith, Trengganu and Sago Streets during the festive season, selling traditional snacks and customary decorations.

In shophouses on Ann Siang Road and Club Street, local designer boutiques such as Asylum and Style:Nordic can be found amidst traditional Chinese clan associations. A popular haunt for today's hipsters, this area of Chinatown blends traditional Chinese heritage with contemporary threads, quirky cafes and chic restaurants.

Malls
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- People's Park Complex, 1 Park Road. Has numerous shops selling electronics, clothing, clocks, Chinese medicine and jewelery. Also, there are many massage parlours and travel agents.

- Chinatown Point, 133 New Bridge Road. A shopping mall that mainly sells handicrafts, there are other shops selling gifts and watches as well as beauty salons.

- OG People's Park, 100 Upper Cross Street, [12]. Sells a wide range of department store merchandise, well known brands such as Adidas, Giordano and Billabong have counters in the building. On the fifth floor, there is a food section selling mainly Korean products, with a Westlake cafe on the third floor.

- Pearl's Centre, 100 Eu Tong Sen Street. Labyrinthine old shopping mall with a bizarre assortment of stores, ranging from Buddhist paraphernalia (most of the 2nd/3rd floors) to sexy underwear for men (two shops in the basement) and everything in between. The Yangtze cineplex, infamous for showing only notionally arty soft-porn movies, is located on the fourth floor.

Shops
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- Tea Chapter, 9 Neil Rd, [13]. Covered under Drink, this store also retails a wide variety of not only Chinese tea itself, but all the paraphernalia needed to brew it.

- Yue Hwa, 70 Eu Tong Sen St (corner of Cross St), [14]. Prominently located in central Chinatown, this stately building was originally built in 1936 as Chinatown's top hotel. Today, it's a six-floor emporium of Chinese products, from traditional medicine on the first floor, complete with deer horns and dried bats, to porcelain and furniture on the sixth. The sweeping lobby on the second floor now houses an amazing array of Chinese tea, ranging from $1.40/100g looseleaf and $3 cups to pedigreed $18,000 pu erh and $80,000 teapots.

Among the Chinese, the obligatory souvenir is some sweet red bak kwa (barbequed pork), available both fresh off the grill and in convenient vacuum packs.

- Bee Cheng Hiang, 69-71 Pagoda St (Chinatown MRT exit A), [15]. Bee Cheng Hiang is the most famous bak kwa brand, with 28 outlets throughout Singapore.

- Fragrance, 205 & 207 New Bridge Rd (Chinatown MRT exit A), [16]. Fragrance is another famous brand of bak kwa, with 20 outlets throughout Singapore.

- Lim Chee Guan, 203 New Bridge Rd. The local favourite for this treat, with 3-4 hour queues (with news crews filming this event from time to time) around the Chinese New Year period. Tastier than the competition, but harder to find as it has only two outlets.

Eat
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In Chinatown there is, needless to say, plenty of Chinese food to go around! But if you hanker for something different, Tanjong Pagar is also Singapore's unofficial Korean district and there are a large number of very good Korean restaurants too, plus a sprinkling of European fine dining establishments around Club St and Duxton Hill.

Budget
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Two good hunting grounds for cheap eats are Smith Street, a single row of fancy stalls with the nicest ambiance of the lot and quite decent food too, and Maxwell Centre at 2 Murray St, just across road and a few minutes walk from Tanjong Pagar MRT. Most dishes in either location are less than $5, although seafood can get considerably more expensive. Note that most of Smith Street's stalls are open for dinner only, while Maxwell Centre is open 24 hours. Connoisseurs may also wish to check out the 2nd floor of the newly renovated Chinatown Complex, which hosts one of Singapore's largest hawker centres with over 200 stalls, but this labyrinthine warren of concrete and flourescent lighting is both hard to navigate and not exactly a treat to the eyes.

- Ah Balling Peanut Soup, Smith St. Top off your meal with a bowl of Chinese peanut soup and rice balls, filled with your choice of peanut, sesame, yam or red bean paste. 50cents/bowl.

- Akbar Restaurant, 2 Lim Teck Kim Rd. Open 24 hours. At the southernmost tip of Tanjong Pagar, this busy but friendly 24-hour coffeeshop (don't be fooled by the name) serves up a wide variety of Malay and Muslim Indian food, with the roti prata being the star of the menu. $5.

- Da Dong, 39 Smith St. The dim sum in the restaurant inside are only mediocre, but the best eats here are the steamed buns (bao) from the stall outside. Most bao are 60-80 cents, but the aptly named Big Bao ($2.50) stuffed with chicken, mushrooms, sausage and more is a meal in itself.

- Day & Night Herbal Soup, Maxwell Centre #01-12. This is the place to try out the Chinese herbs sold by medicine shops nearby. If pig brain soup ($5) is too Fear Factor-y, try the milder six flavour chicken ($6), good for whatever ails you. $5-10.

- Erich's Wuerstelstand, Trengganu St (Corner of Sago St), [17]. 3PM to late. Perhaps the oddest sight in Chinatown; a German sausage stand run by a boisterous Austrian, Erich Pollski. He sells German sausages with authentic sauerkraut and mustard. $3.

- Mei Hong Yuen, 67 Temple St. Specializes in Chinese desserts, notable for a whole range of soups and puddings. Try the mango pudding ($3), which comes with chunks of fresh mango plus sprinkles of pomelo, tapioca and ice.

- Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice, Maxwell Centre #01-10. Tue-Sun 11 AM-8 PM in theory, but often sells out faster. Described by the New York Times as a "chicken rice shrine", this humble stall is considered by many as the best in Singapore and is easily distinguished from its many imitators by the long queue snaking in front. The chicken is meltingly smooth, and don't forget to try their trademark chili sauce. $3.

- Tong Heng, 285 South Bridge Road, [18]. Chinese bakery famed for its freshly-baked egg tarts ($1), best washed down with a bottle of water chestnut juice. Tong Heng now has many other outlets, including one at Changi Airport, but this is the original.

- Zhen Zhen Porridge, Maxwell Centre #01-54. Wed-Mon 6 AM until sold out (noon-ish). Famous not so much for their rice porridge (from $2.20) as for their raw fish salad (from $2), served up with spring onion, sesame, ginger, garlic and a drizzle of lime. Prepare to queue.

Mid-range
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- Fatty Ox Hong Kong Roast Duck, 10 Murray Terrace. Thu-Tue, open for lunch and dinner. Aside from the obvious roast duck (half/whole $16/32, or dishes with duck $8-10), this restaurant is also known for its claypot dishes and its daily-changing Chinese soups. The $5 lunches are good value, but even at dinner $20 for two is plenty. [Fatty Ox moved when Murray Terrace was renovated, and has subsequently closed down. Unsure if they have set up in a third location.]

- Hometown Restaurant, 9 Smith St, +65-63721602. Serves up authentic Sichuanese (Szechwan) food, meaning fearsome quantities of dried chili, tingly Sichuan pepper, salt and oil. The tea-smoked duck ($10) and mapo doufu ($6) are both excellent, while bowls of dan dan noodles go for just $5. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

- Hankookgwan, 26 Tanjong Pagar Road. Swish-looking two-floor Korean eatery that offers both expensive bulgogi barbeques and more reasonably priced rice and noodle dishes. Try the dolsot bibimbap (rice with toppings in a sizzling stone bowl), $9/14 lunch/dinner.

- Qun Zhong Eating House, 21 Neil Rd. Well-known for its dumplings, above all the Beijing-style jiaozi, but the Shanghai-style xiao long bao aren't bad either. Large servings around $9, closed Wednesdays.

- Tian Jin Fong Kee, 1 Park Road (#01-100 People's Park Complex), +65-6532-3319, [19]. Originally a dumpling shop from northern China, this low-key eatery at the corner of the massive People's Park hawker center has mutated, in a very Singaporean way, into the favorite hangout of sailors and their Filipina/Thai girlfriends from the nearby KTV lounges, drinking San Miguel until early morning and ordering off their extensive second menu of Filipino food. Chinese eats are cheap ($5-10), Filipino dishes far more expensive ($25+), but they're huge and meant to be shared. Fun people-watching.

- Tiong Shian Porridge Centre, 265 New Bridge Road, +65-62211596, [20]. 7 AM-11:30 PM, closed Mon. Always-packed eatery in the heart of Chinatown, specializing in rice porridge and claypots, with a sideline in seafood dishes. Try their famous frog claypot (from $8), but the squeamish may want to avoid the hoon chang — large intestine — dishes. Note your table number, then order and pay at cashier; there's more seating on the 2nd floor if the street level is full. $10.

Splurge
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- Blue Ginger, 97 Tanjong Pagar Rd, +6562223928, [21]. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm. Possibly Singapore's best-known (and most expensive) restaurant for very authentic Peranakan food. One of the most popular dishes is ayam buah keluak, a chicken curry dish made with candlenuts. $50.

- Da Paolo, 80 Club St, +65-62247081. An authentic and popular Italian restaurant known for its home-made pasta. Open daily for lunch and dinner, reservations recommended on weekends. $50.

- Korea Garden, 34 Tanjong Pagar Rd, +65-62217153. The decor is grungy, staff are harried and prices are steep, but the place is often packed with Korean expats hankering for authentic home cooking. $40.

- The Universal, 40 Duxton Hill (behind Berjaya Hotel), +65-63250188, [22]. Lunch and dinner daily. A quaint fine dining restaurant with a modern take on European cuisine. Attached wine bar. $60.

- Uluru, 36 Duxton Hill (behind Berjaya Hotel), +65-62233654, [23]. Noon-2 PM, 6-10 PM weekdays, Sat/Sun from 10 AM. This is an Aussie Steakhouse with charm aplenty. Good prices for a hearty meal. Look out for the cow uniforms on the staff. $55.

Drink
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Chinatown and Tanjong Pagar have a vibrant nightlife. As you'd expect, karaoke boxes and their dodgier cousin the KTV lounge predominate, but the area around Club St and Ann Siang Hill has many upmarket wine bars catering to expats and moneyed locals. Many of the second-floor bars and clubs in the area cater to Singapore's gay community, so look out for the rainbow flags.

Bars and pubs
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- Beaujolais Wine Bar, 1 Ann Siang Hill, +65-6224-2227. Cozy, romantic yet unpretentious shophouse with friendly staff, a huge wine list and generously sized eats ranging from cheese platters ($10-16) to chili con carne ($14). Wine by the glass from $10.

- Breeze, 33 Erskine Rd (Scarlet Hotel). True to its name, this outdoor bar atop the Scarlet offers cool breezes and is an oasis of lush foliage, only with peeping skyscrapers to remind you that you're in the heart of Singapore. Remarkably long drink list and the self-proclaimed best mojitos in town. $15.

- Cow & Coolies Pub, 30 Mosque St. 5 PM-1 AM daily. One of the very few drinking holes in the area that's neither posh yuppie hangout nor dodgy hostess lounge, this low-key pub draws an eclectic crowd of both gay and straight locals and backpackers, especially those hankering to sing a song or two on the heavily-used karaoke machine. The pub also has basic backpacker accommodation upstairs, from $25/night. $10 for a beer.

- O'Bama's Irish Pub, 54 Tras St (100 meter fro Tanjong Pagar MRT), +65-6225 1090 (info@obamas.asia), [24]. M-W 11AM-midnight, Th-F 11AM-2AM, Sa 3PM-4AM, Su 4PM-midnight. Singapore's only Irish owned and operated pub. Just like a pub back home in Ireland. Thursday is happy hour all day long. Great live music and full GAA sports coverage.

- The Toucan, 15 Duxton Hill (behind the Berjaya Hotel), +65-62235950. Mon-Thu 11-1 AM, Fri 11-3 AM, Sat 4 PM-3 AM. Archetypal Irish pub complete with garden teleported straight out of Ireland, including even a wishing well. The $7.50 lunch deal (11 AM-3 PM daily) is great value: try their famous fish & chips or lamb shank. Pint of Guinness from $11.10

Tea
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- Tea Chapter, 9 Neil Rd, [25]. Try this excellent tea house and shop for a spot of tea drinking Chinese style. A basic pot of tea and an introduction on how to brew it right starts at $8, although some of the fancier brands (how about some Phoenix's Shrubbery?) cost much more. Plain seats on the open 3rd floor are free, raised and partitioned seats on the 2nd cost an additional $5 per head. Be warned, although the setting is gorgeous, the tea is mediocre.

- Yixing Xuan Teahouse, 30/32 Tanjong Pagar Road, [26]. The shop is divided into two: there is a dining area set up like a simple Chinese restaurant, and a separate area where lessons on tea are held, and tea leaves and paraphernalia are sold. The ambience is not really there, but the tea is of the very highest quality. Ask to try the house tea: Beauty of the East.

Sleep
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While there are a few ordinary hotels, the most interesting accommodation options in Chinatown and Tanjong Pagar are in renovated shophouses.

Budget
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There are a few hostels in the suburbs around Chinatown.

- A Beary Good Hostel, 66A & 66B Pagoda St (Chinatown MRT Exit A), 62224955 (reservations@abearygoodhostel.com), [27]. checkin: 2PM; checkout: noon. Opened 14 February 2010. Bunk beds $26.

- Beary Nice!, 46B Smith St (Chinatown MRT Exit A), 62224955, [28]. checkin: 2PM; checkout: 12 noon. Sister hostel to the popular a beary good hostel. Friendly and very nice. SGD26.

- Sentosa View, 105 Spottiswoode Park Road (Near KTM railway station), +65-91009123 (book@sentosaview.com), [29]. Small but clean hostel located on the 23rd floor of a public housing block, the location is reasonably handy if you're coming from Malaysia by train but inconvenient for anything else, about 10 minutes walk (or a short bus trip) to Chinatown. Living room with TV, PC, free wifi, basic breakfast. No lockers. Dorm $20-25.

- Home Sweet Home II, Tiong Bahru Estate, +65-62225168. Started as "H.S.H", a full-fledged 3 Guest rooms backpackers place. Now use 1 Room (as an Appreciation Room) to host foreign friends and in between hosting, will let out to travellers for us to experience the nostalgic atmosphere in this government-preserved historical area and she will help with local information to make any visitors feel at home. Located in a residential area southwest of Chinatown (in between two subway stations, Outram MRT and Tiong Bahru MRT). Run by the friendly Ros, an ex-backpacker. Dorm $15, Double room $35.

Mid-range
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Keong Saik Road, at the western edge of town, is a former red-light district which still retains more than its fair share of dodgy karaoke lounges — as well as a number of cheap, largely identical shophouse hotels, which look rather attractive from the outside but are all quite cramped, stuffy and dingy inside.

- Hotel 1929, +6663471929 (Outram Park MRT), [30]. TIME Asia's Boutique Hotel of the Year in 2004, this renovated super-stylish shophouse is best known for its extraordinary collection of chairs, covering the gamut from designer masterpieces to a barber's chair a century old. Head and shoulders above the other hotels in Keong Saik, the rooms feature all mod cons including flat-panel TVs and free broadband internet in every room, but the "superior" rooms are tiny and steeply priced for what you get; you might want to consider splurging on one of the rooftop suites complete with outdoor hot tub. $200.

- Inn at Temple Street, 36 Temple Street, [31]. 1 minute walk from MRT and Chinatown shopping. Feels slightly shabby and uncared for: cramped rooms, peeling wallpaper, antiquated air conditioning. The upside is a great location. $110-170.

- Keong Saik Hotel, 69 Keong Saik Rd, +65-62230660, [32]. Probably the least bad of the midrange shophouse lot, the main draws here are pricing and location. All rooms have air-con and attached bathrooms (shower only). Ask to see your room before you check in though, as some of the cheapest ones are windowless and dank. $100.

- Hotel Re!, 175A Chin Swee Road (8 min from Outram Park MRT), +65-68278288, [33]. Former primary school repainted with eyeball-blistering flourescent shades and thus now a 12-story, 140-room "retro boutique" hotel. Located on a hilltop (Pearl's Hill Park) and a 5-8min walking distance to Outram MRT station. Restaurant offers a variety of international cuisine and daily international-themed set meals at $18.80++. $200.

Splurge
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- Amara Hotel, 165 Tanjong Pagar Rd, +65-6879-2555, [34]. Classy, modern business hotel with its own large shopping mall. $300.

- Berjaya Hotel Singapore, 83 Duxton Road, +65-62277678 (fax: +65-62271232), [35]. Faded grand old lady of a colonial hotel: rather in need of a renovation, but if you squint hard enough, it does look a bit like a pre-renovation Raffles. Central location, but rooms facing the bar strip in front may be noisy. No pool. $240.

- M Hotel, 81 Anson Rd (Tanjong Pagar MRT), +65-6421-6120, [36]. Stylish business hotel in the commercial heart of Tanjong Pagar. The gym features a miniature climbing wall. $300.

- New Majestic, 31-37 Bukit Pasoh Rd (Outram Park MRT, exit H), +65-65114700, [37]. By the people who brought you Hotel 1929, this too is a refurbished shophouse, but the 30 rooms comes in four themes: mirror, hanging bed, aquarium and loft. Nice pool (although in shade for much of the day), small gym, free wifi, good restaurant with views of the pool — from underneath! $300.

- The Scarlet, 33 Erskine Rd (next to Maxwell Hawker Centre), +65-65113333, [38]. Beyond mere boutiqueness, this "personality hotel" in a stretch of converted shophouses is stuffed with more red plush and gold trim than a Parisian boudoir and does its best to encourage all 7 deadly sins with restaurant Desire, bar Bold, spa Sanctum and gym Flaunt. Rooms are small but comfortable, good location right next to Maxwell Food Centre and the heart of Chinatown. $250.

District Little India Table of Contents

• Get in

• Get around

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Hostels

Hotels

Mid-range

Get in
toc

The North-East MRT line's Little India and Farrer Park stations, near Serangoon Road, are convenient entry points into the area. Bugis station on the East-West line is also within walking distance (see Bugis).

Getting taxis in Little India can be difficult, especially on weekends. It's best to either book by phone or head to the major roads on the edges to flag one down.

Get around
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Little India's main drag is Serangoon Road, which starts at Rochor Canal Rd and continues northward to Serangoon itself. The action is tightly concentrated a few blocks on either side of the road, and can be easily covered on foot.

See
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Little India's primary attraction is the town itself. Here too you can find the gaily painted shophouses that are an icon of Singapore, but now the Chinese signs (almost) disappear to be replaced with Tamil, Hindi, Bengali and other more exotic Indian scripts. Stores hawk saris and gold bangles, spices and incense waft in from the doorways and Bollywood's latest soundtracks blare from every other alleyway.

- Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, 141 Serangoon Road, [1]. Little India's busiest and oldest temple, dating back to 1881 — although the present structure was completed in 1986. The temple is particularly busy on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Be sure to take your shoes off before venturing inside. Free.

Do
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The most extreme thing to do in Little India is to join the festival of Thaipusam, held yearly during the full moon in the lunar month of Thai (usually Jan/Feb). Male devotees attach ornate shrines to their flesh with piercing hooks known as kavadi and walk across town in a day-long procession. Female devotees would usually just carry a pot of milk on their head and join the procession. The procession starts from Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple in Serangoon Road and proceeds to the Sri Thandayuthapani Temple at Tank Road.

Around Deepavali, the Hindu festival of light, Serangoon Road is festively decorated (with lights, of course!) and open-air markets are set up to sell Deepavali goodies. Like Thaipusam, the exact date is set by the lunar calendar, but it takes place in October/November and is a public holiday. Near the beginning of Deepavali, the fire walking festival of Thimithi is held, where many male devotees will walk across a platform of burning coal. Though the actual fire walking takes place at the Sri Mariammam temple in Chinatown, the procession starts at the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple in Serangoon Road and makes its way to Chinatown early in the morning where the fire walking commences.

A more low-key event happens every Sunday evening when a half-million workers from the subcontinent turn up in Little India to hang out on their day off. Most of the crowd is friendly enough, but inevitably a few get into drunken fights and there's a heavy police presence about to keep an eye on things.

Buy
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The central streets of Little India are packed with stalls selling all sorts of Indian goods. Two giant shopping centres, however, are unique not just in Little India but all of Singapore:

- Tekka Market, 665 Buffalo Road. Little India is a cacophony of car horns, bicycle bells and the vibrant chatter of its residents. This explosion of sights, smells and sounds in Tekka Market is only a short walk from Little India MRT Station. Tekka (as it is locally known), has a plethora of stalls selling Indian, Malay and Chinese food that draws crowds from all over Singapore. There’s also a wet market stocked with the freshest vegetables, meat, fish, spices and flowers. Also available are souvenirs such as brass oil lamps and pots, or fresh garlands of jasmine, whose scent is signature aroma of Little India.

- Tekka Mall (The Verge), 2 Serangoon Road. Little India's first and only modern air-conditioned shopping mall, and rather soulless when compared to the bustle outside. In the process of being rebranded as the IT-oriented The Verge in a bid to compete with Sim Lim, just around the corner. The adjoining Foodmore food court is not bad if you want something other than Indian food. One can also find a comforting ayurlly massage parlour at the fifth floor. A supermart at the basement and a travel agency on the second floor. Plus, many more shops catering to all interests. Fast becoming a place to go shopping.

- Mustafa Centre, 145 Syed Alwi Road (off Serangoon Rd near Farrer Park MRT), +65-62955855, [2]. Singapore's supreme discount department store: floor after floor of absolutely everything at rock-bottom prices, ranging from Rolex watches and washing machines to fresh mangoes, bags of lentils, tailored suits and airline tickets. Open 24 hours; the exchange counters in front are probably the best place in Singapore to exchange any currency you can think of (and many you can't) at competitive rates. Mustafa Centre also offers travel, hotel reservation and visa assistance services. Note: There are now many mini-Mustafa outlets scattered along Serangoon Rd, but the original and by far the largest is the one facing Syed Alwi Rd.

- Sim Lim Square, 1 Rochor Canal Road. Not actually in Little India but right across the street, Sim Lim is Singapore's Akihabara, a giant electronics mecca squeezed into one building, with hundreds upon hundreds of tightly packed specialist stores offering some of the most competitive prices for computers and consumers electronics in Asia. The first floor is for tourists, the upper floors and the back corridors are where the real deals can be found. In general avoid the first and second floor shops as they have a tendency to grossly overcharge tourists. Watch out for pricing tricks (omitting tax, selling included accessories separately, etc) and the occasional outright substitution fraud; unless you know exactly what you're doing and/or need something unusual, you might want to shop at Mustafa instead. The third floors and above are the real haven for computer geeks looking for cheap bargains and to upgrade or put together a system. Sim Lim Tower, just across the street, also has a few shops but pales in comparison sizewise.

The other shopping options in Little India cater more to the Indian market:

- Little India Arcade, Campbell Lane. A narrow pathway through a cluster of restored shophouses, filled to the brim with Indian clothing, accessories, incense and a rather good Indian sweet shop (#01-16).

- Naranjan Electronics, 154 Race Course Rd (Farrer Park MRT). Small shop for basic electronics like digital cameras and mobile phones, with bargain-basement prices. Try to check your goods before you leave though, as these guys have a strict (and theoretically illegal) no-returns-whatsoever policy.

Eat
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Waiter, there's a fish head in my curry

One speciality of Little India is fish head curry, a uniquely Singaporean dish. It's one of the stranger-sounding and admittedly stranger-looking dishes around: no, you don't eat the head itself, but there's plenty of meat to be found inside as the head in question barely fits on a plate! Cooked so long that it falls apart when poked at, just dig in and pile up the bones on your table. Eyeballs are not eaten, but the Chinese think the connective tissue behind it is the best part of the dish.

There are two types of fish head curry in Singapore, Chinese and Indian. Little India's fish head places unsurprisingly mostly serve the Indian kind, which is usually spicy and hot. Most specialty restaurants are on or near Race Course Rd, conveniently located between the Little India and Farrer Park MRT stations.

The thing to eat in Little India is obviously Indian food. Both southern and northern cuisines are well represented, food is cheap even by Singaporean standards, portions are generous and vegetarians in particular will have a field day. Note that these are authentic Indian places and people around you will be eating the way Indians do, namely by hand — it's best to shed your inhibitions and dig in, although cutlery can be provided on request.

Budget
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- Jaggis North Indian Cuisine, 34 Race Course Rd, +65-296-6141 (fax: +65-296-0780), [3]. Caters to meat-eaters too with a selection of tandoori dishes. Set meals available, or mix and match at the counter. $3 and up - some of the most pathetic food is served here, they would claim it's just 3 dollar and up but you would end up spending 25 dollars per head and still being unsatified. It is really bad place, if you want to get looted or fell cheated then you should definately visit this place..

- Kasturi Restaurant, 1 Roberts Lane, +65-62995510. North Indian, Bangladeshi and Pakistani cuisine, meals from $2 upwards.

- Komala Vilas, 76-78 Serangoon Road (and other branches around town), +65-6293-6980, [4]. 11:30AM-10:30PM. A Singaporean institution featuring purely vegetarian Indian food. Downstairs is fast food, head up for restaurant-style seating and serving. Sets start at less than $3 and even the largest platter of breads and dips will cost less than $7. Note that gourmands prefer the original outlet over the many franchised fast-food copies, and that not all dishes are available all day. South Indian set meal upstairs is $6.50 with top-ups.

- Saravana Bhavan, 84 Syed Alwi Rd, +65-6297-7755, [5]. 8 AM-11 PM. The Singapore branch of a restaurant chain from Chennai, serving up vegetarian Indian food. Get a massive set lunch for $4.80 or just order your favorites for a few dollars a piece. Try the rava dosa, a steal at $2.60.

- Sagar Ratna, 103 Syed Alwi Road (just across from Mustafa Cafe). Opened in the second half of 2005. Franchisee of a South Indian restaurant from Delhi, and serves up decent fare for reasonable prices. Set meals ($5-7) are good value, ordering a la carte will cost you more. The rasam (spicy lentil soup) in particular never fails to impress. Strictly Pure vegetarian.

Mid-range
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- Banana Leaf Apolo, 54-58 Race Course Rd. 10 AM-10 PM daily. A well-known place for all sorts of South Indian food; no prizes for guessing what serves as the plate. Most visitors come here for the fish head curry, even the "small" size is enough for 3-4 and will cost you $18, plus $2.50 a head for rice, pappadams and dips.

- Khansama, 166 Serangoon Road, +65-62990300. Cheap coffeeshop-style eats downstairs (under $5) and a midrange air-con restaurant upstairs (mains $5-10). Generous portions if you don't mind their touts. Best known for its tandoori dishes and a wide selection of chaat appetizers.

- Lagnaa, 6 Upper Dickson Road (East off Serangoon Road, on the Southern side of the street), +65-62961215. Delicious Indian food from a very friendly owner. Upstairs is barefoot only with a very relaxed atmosphere. Offers cooking courses and also a "slave" deal: work for 3 hours to have one wish granted. Mains around S$9 (a la carte).

- Muthus Curry, 72-78 Race Course Rd. 10 AM-10 PM daily. Muthu's has a respectable claim to coming up with the idea of fish head curry; now run by the founder's son, this shop continues to draw the crowds. Fish head $16-25 (serves 3-4).

Splurge
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- Delhi Restaurant, 60 Race Course Rd (2nd branch on Serangoon Rd). Offers a more upmarket experience with vested waiters and a stack of awards posted on the wall. The menu features northern Indian food and has non-vegetarian selections as well; order a couple of Kingfisher beers to get pappadam with an excellent mint dip on the house. $30.

Drink
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Race Course Rd has some funky pubs and bars. Desker Road is Singapore's dingiest quarter of ill repute and best avoided, especially on Sundays.

Little India has quite a few sarabat stalls offering local drinks, especially teh tarik ("pulled tea", a Malaysian variant of sweet, milky Indian chai), also available in iced. A particularly popular one can be found at the intersection of Perak and Dunlop Rds, next to the mosque.

- Prince of Wales Backpacker Pub, 101 Dunlop St, +65-62990130, [6]. Brightly painted Australian corner pub/hostel transplanted in Singapore, with Gippsland Gold draught beer shipped in, near-nightly live music and fun theme nights (eg. free drinks for guys in skirts). Drinks around S$10 (half price for in-house guests), dorms S$18, Private rooms with windows & private bathroom S$60 aircon.

Sleep
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Along with neighboring Bugis, Little India is Singapore's backpacker district and has many hostels offering cheap lodging, as well as some of the most affordable hotels in town. Note that some of the cheap hotels around Desker Rd cater to the sex trade.

Budget
toc

Hostels
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- Footprints Hostel, 25A Perak Road (5min Walk from MRT Little India exit C), +65-62955134, [7]. All prices are Net. Price includes Free Breakfast,Free internet, Free Wifi, Free lockers. Dorms from $12/pax, Privates from $17/pax.

- Ali's Nest, 23 Roberts Lane (off Serangoon Road, near Farrer Park MRT), +65 62 91 29 38, [8]. Possibly the cheapest hostel in Singapore, but for a reason: some travellers complain of bedbugs. No sign outside so look for the number. Price includes breakfast of toast and tea/coffee. Ali is helpful and well traveled. rooms $20-30.

- Empire Residences, 202A Syed Alwi Road (corner of Jalan Besar), +65-91009123 (book@empiresg.com), [9]. New hostel located at the northern fringe of Little India, near Mustafa but rather far from the MRT. Free wifi and free breakfast. Dorm $22-$35, single $80 up.

- Fragrance Hostel, 63 Dunlop Street (2nd block East of the intersection with Clive Street), +6562956888 (enquiries@fragrancebackpackers.com.sg), [10]. A new and clean, if slightly crowded, backpacker hostel/hotel. Rooms are 6 bunk dorms, but all have aircon. A member of the Fragrance Hotel Chain, which has branches of differing levels all around the city. Only a short walk from Little India MRT station, and right in the middle of Dunlop Street and the engaging madness of the Little India district. Dorm $20.

- Hangout @ Mt.Emily, 10A Upper Wilkie Road (7 min uphill from MRT Little India exit A), +65-64385588, [11]. No frills, just fun!", proclaims the recently renovated Mt. Emily Hostel. Sparkling clean primary colors and IKEA furniture make the rooms feel more like Oslo than Singapore. Free internet PCs, rooftop bar, laundry facilities, lockers, etc. Dorm $40, doubles $120.

- The Inn Crowd, 73 Dunlop Street, [12]. A friendly backpacker hostel with an excellent website. They run a free kick-scooter tour around Singapore, which is a great way to see some of the central districts of the city. Prices include breakfast and internet access. Dorm $20, double $59.

- Mackenzie Hostel, 114-A MacKenzie Road (near Little India MRT), 68372887, [13]. dorm $15, single room $35, double room $40.

- Pass By Bed and Breakfast, 245 Jalan Besar, +65-63960812, [14]. Nice, clean and friendly staff. All rooms have aircon. Free simple breakfast and Internet. Be warned: the mattresses are covered in plastic, with a sheet on top. Dorm $18, twin $45.

- Prince of Wales, 101 Dunlop St., +65-62990130, [15]. Free breakfast, wifi, and lockers. A hostel that also serves as a bar. The accompanying bar has a party almost every night and a beer garden with live bands. It can get a little loud but if your the wild type it's perfect. Dorm $25, Double $40.

Hotels
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- Ambassador Hotel, 75 Desker Road, +65-63923944, [16]. Self-proclaimed charming boutique hotel, but it's smack dab in the middle of Singapore's dodgiest red-light district. Dingy inside - part of the same chain as Aspinals and Claremont. $90.

- Aspinals Hotel, 83 Syed Alwi Road, +65-63923944, [17]. Budget hotel near Mustafa. $90.

- Claremont Hotel, 301 Serangoon Road, +65-63924855, [18]. Recently renovated mid-range hotel, around the corner from Mustafa. $90.

- Penta Hotel, 33 Birch Road (Farrer Park MRT), +65-62996311. checkin: 02/11/2008; checkout: 07/11/2008. Rooms are air-conditioned and the location near Mustafa and the MRT is fairly good. $70.

- Shing Hotel, 165 Kitchener Road, +65-62912565, [19]. Basic but adequate accommodation within striking distance of Mustafa — and Desker Rd. $40-70.

- Tekka Boarding Service, 462 Serangoon Road, +65-62975038, [20]. Brand-new hotel promising minimalist design and maximum comfort. The prices certainly are among the cheapest around. $35/45 single/double.

- Tekka Hotel, 22 Belilios Lane, +65-62253378, [21]. No-frills hotel in the heart of Little India. Internet connectivity in rooms. Cockroaches aplenty. $59/69 single/double.

- Royal India Hotel, 88 Syed Alwi Road (opp Mustafa), +65-62977488, [22]. Another cheap hotel that's perhaps a small cut above the rest — their website advertises "homogenous tiles flooring", and offers discounts for advance booking. $100.

Mid-range
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- Albert Court Village Hotel, 180 Albert Street, +65-63393939, [23]. Tastefully converted from pre-war shophouses, this boutique hotel is located diagonally opposite the Little India MRT Station, a block from Sim Lim Square and right beside the newly opened Lasalle College of the Arts. $120.

- Parkroyal on Kitchener, 181 Kitchener Road, +65-64283000, [24]. Probably the most upscale hotel in the neighborhood, 5 minutes from Mustafa and the Farrer Park MRT. Good value if you're willing to pay a small premium. $135.

- Perak Hotel, 12 Perak Road, +65-6299-7733, [25]. A tasteful, small, private guesthouse in a renovated Peranakan-style building. $150-180.

District Balestier, Newton, Novena and Toa Payoh Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Understand
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Strung along the North-South Line just north of Orchard Road, these four rather dissimilar districts serve to absorb Singapore's urban sprawl and house its inhabitants. None are particularly attractive from a tourist's point of view, but they are popular for short and longer-term stays in Singapore — quiet and reasonably priced, but close enough to be convenient.

Balestier offers one of Singapore's largest clusters of cheap hotels, second only to Geylang. As you might guess, here too the main customers are patrons of the nearby whorehouses and gambling dens, although they maintain low profile and this isn't really a cause for concern.

Newton and Novena are rapidly gentrifying suburbs just north of the city, housing a significant expat population and services geared to them. Just one MRT stop further north, though, is the canonical Singapore heartland suburb of Toa Payoh (pron. "Tuah Pah-yoh"), housing well over 100,000 Singaporeans in HDB housing blocks.

Get in
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Newton, Novena and Toa Payoh are easily accessed on the North-South MRT Line. Balestier does not have convenient access by MRT, although it's possible to hike over from Toa Payoh or Novena stations (10-15 minutes). However, there are quite a few bus services along Balestier Rd, with the most useful ones being SBS 145 to Bugis, City Hall, Boat Quay and Chinatown, 130 to Bugis and City Hall, and 124 to Orchard Road and City Hall.

See
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Toa Payoh has no sights as such, but it's an interesting example of the elusive "real Singapore". Just take the MRT to the station and walk around the vast sprawl of Toa Payoh Central, much of which is taken up by an outdoor shopping arcade filled with little neighborhood shops and places to eat.

The Balestier area has two sights of minor interest:

- Sasanaramsi Burmese Buddhist Temple, 14 Tai Gin Rd (off Balestier Rd), +65-6251-1717, [1]. Daily 6:30 AM to 9:00 PM. Completed in 1990, equipped with an eye-catching golden spire, it is the only Buddhist temple outside Myanmar to be built in the traditional Burmese architectural style. Inside, the most remarkable features for the lay visitor are the Buddha statues enhanced with swirling LED halos; be sure to climb up to the third floor to see the largest and most stunning of the lot. Free.

- Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall, 12 Tai Gin Rd (off Balestier Rd), [2]. Built in the late 1800s as Wan Qing Yuan (晚晴园), the villa was offered in 1906 to Chinese revolutionary Sun Yat Sen, who stayed here eight times while in exile. The villa has been lovingly restored and was reopened to the public in 2001, but the contents of the museum inside are a little dull unless you have a keen interest and solid background in Chinese history. $3.

Do
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- Singapore Polo Club, 80 Mount Pleasant Rd (bus 54, 162, 166 from Novena MRT), +65-68543999, [3]. Dating back to 1886, the colonial-style clubhouse is a good spot to quaff a gin tonic below lazy ceiling fans while watching toffs pootle about on the polo field. Practice sessions Tue, Thu, Sat and Sun at 5 PM, plus scheduled competition events, all free and open to non-members. Riding lessons also available, although these are primarily intended for members and residents and various conditions apply. Even if you aren't a polo fan, the daily $19.90 three-course lunches at the Mountbatten Room are a pretty good deal.

- Toa Payoh Sports Hall and Swimming Complex, 301 Toa Payoh Lorong 6 (Toa Payoh MRT), +65-62567153. Daily 9 AM-8 PM. Huge swimming pools, basic ClubFITT gym, badminton courts. Gym $2.50, pool $1.

Buy
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Most of Balestier's shops — over 40 at last count — are devoted to selling light fixtures and other interior decoration items. Unless you want to surprise the folks back home with a lovely Singaporean toilet bowl, it's probably best to head elsewhere — both Novena and Toa Payoh have large shopping centers around the MRT stations.

- Square 2, 10 Sinaran Drive (Novena MRT), [4]. Atop the MRT station, Square 2 is consciously modeled on the hip malls of Seoul, packed with 500 small boutiques selling Korean fashions, electronics, accessories and food.

- Velocity, 238 Thomson Rd (Novena MRT), +65-63505110, [5]. Formerly Novena Square, this is by far Novena's largest shopping mall. The main theme is higher-end branded sporting goods, including a large California Fitness gym, but there is also a decent selection of restaurants, a Kopitiam food court and a Cold Storage supermarket.

Eat
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Food around here is cheap and plentiful.

- Newton Circus, (Newton MRT). Known for its seafood, but is also one the few places in Singapore where touts and overcharging can be a nuisance — double-check the price of any seafood you order. Still, the hawker centre has always had a special spot in the hearts of Singaporeans, especially those in the heartlands. Other than its famed seafood stalls, the hokkien mee, oyster omelette, popiah, BBQ chicken wings, ice kachang, satay and fried rice are popular with locals. Renovated in July 2006, and has now a better atmosphere and more outdoor seating. No smoking.

- Novena Peranakan Cuisine, 273 Thomson Road #01-02 (Novena MRT, opp Novena Velocity), +65-62561430. The restaurant promises "typical home-cooked nonya food", and that's what you get, with Peranakan classics like ayam buah keluak (chicken with keluak nuts) and babi pontek (pork stew). No frills, but well priced with lunch sets from $3.80 and mains from $6. $10.

- 2nd Mini Steamboat Delight, 273 Thomson Road #01-04 (Novena Garden, opp Novena Square), +65-62550600. Choose chicken (mild) or tom yam (lethal) soup, add in your choice of ingredients and chow away. The menu is vast and includes lots of exotic (and expensive) seafood choices, but if you stick to the basics portions are cheap and generously sized. Try the fish glue ($4), a spicy fish paste that tastes much better than it sounds. $20.

- Wee Nam Kee Hainanese Chicken Rice, 275 Thomson Road #01-05, +65-62556396. This no-frills restaurant wins no prizes for appearance or service, but it gets packed every evening with crowds who want to sample their famous chicken rice. The roasted chicken is better than steamed, ask for boneless to make it easier to eat. Also try the shui jiao (dumpling with minced pork and prawns). $5.

Balestier is locally famous for two products: the flaky bean jam pastry tau sar piah, and the pork rib soup bak kut teh. Thanks to the crowd they serve, most restaurants in Balestier are open until the wee hours.

- Founder Bak Kut Teh, 347 Balestier Road, +65-63526192. Has a respectable claim to being the first bak kut teh joint on the road, and is certainly the only one with air-con. The sour pickled vegetables and pig's organ soup are also worth a try. Watch out though: their soup is very peppery indeed. $8.

- House of Tau Sar Piah, 529 Balestier Rd, +65-65203008. Not necessarily the original, but certainly large and popular. Offers a wide variety of fillings, try the savoury tau sar piah with a salty butter filling. $0.50-0.70/piece.

- Loong Fatt Eating House & Confectionary, 639 Balestier Road. Arguably the original tau sar piah shop, which has received Makansutra's highest rating of "Die, die must try".

- Teo Seng Teochew Porridge, 457-461 Balestier Rd, +65-62563031. 9 AM to 4 AM daily. Large eatery serving up Teochew-style porridge, which means a bowl of watery soup (or steamed rice if you wish) and lots of tasty side dishes. Best experienced with a larger group, so you can sample. $4-.

- Cafe De Hong Kong, 586 Balestier Road (Near Thomson Road), +65-62553865, [6]. Offering Authenic Hong Kong cuisine. Recieve good rating from Makansutra. The french toast here is a must try, probably the best in Singapore.

Drink
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- Montero's Pub, 1 Newton Rd #01-01 (Goldhill Plaza Podium Block), +65-62599053. 5pm-1am. A Western-style neighborhood pub with pool table and a good selection of beer. The place to relax. $6-$10.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Fragrance Hotel, 255, 263, 418 Balestier Rd, +65-62526888, [7]. Singapore's largest chain of cheap hotels has no less than three outlets along Balestier Road, all of which are unexciting but perfectly acceptable. From $79.

- Value Hotel, 218, 302, 592 Balestier Road, +65-63582323, [8]. Three more cheap chain hotels, slightly more upmarket than Fragrance. Rooms from $69; the Value Hotel Thomson is the best of the three and even features a pool, but is also slightly more expensive at $89.

Mid-range
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- Quality Hotel, 201 Balestier Road, +65-63559988, [9]. Solid, recently renovated 3-star hotel. Probably the best digs in this part of town. Weekend (Sat and Sun) buffet lunch (1130-1430) $16.24 net; weekday buffet lunch, dinner and supper available at lower prices. A-la-carte only $2.80++ for laksa or prawn mee plus free drink, but served outdoors only from 6pm to midnight; Free shuttle service to Novena MRT and Orchard Rd. $145.

- Hotel Royal, 36 Newton Road (8 min from Novena MRT), +65-62534411, [10]. Three-star hotel with a collection of no less than four dodgy nightclubs, which kind of sets the tone, although it completed a much-needed renovation in 2005. The Jade Room restaurant here is famous for its "Buddha Jumps Over the Wall", an extravagant Chinese soup that will cost you around $100/person. Note: Don't confuse this with Royal@Queens or Royal Plaza! $100-.

Splurge
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- Sheraton Towers, 39 Scotts Road (Newton MRT), +65-67376888, [11]. Comfortable but rather dull business hotel. There's nothing (except Newton Circus) in the vicinity, but Orchard is just one MRT stop away. Somewhat overpriced unless you get good discounts. $250-.

Contact
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- @ Corner, 1 Goldhill Plaza #01-11 (opp Novena MRT on Thomson Rd). Large netcafe popular with gaming addicts. Promotional rates from just $2/hour.

District North and West Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

Zoo, Night Safari and Bird Park

Gardens

Historical

Other

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Get in
toc

The western junction of Jurong East is 20 minutes away from the city center on the MRT East-West Line. Traveling there by the North-South Line will take closer to 60 minutes.

The North-East MRT traverses up to Sengkang and Punggol on the northern coast of the island, but doesn't go to very many places of interest for even the most determined of travellers.

See Johor Bahru for information on crossing the Causeway and the Second Link from Malaysia.

See
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The sights of Singapore's hinterland can be easily divided in two: there's the zoo and the bird park, and then there's everything else.

Zoo, Night Safari and Bird Park
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Without a doubt the top three attractions in the area, the Singapore Zoo, Night Safari and Bird Park offer joint tickets valid for one month: adult combination tickets to any two attractions cost $32, while all three are $45.

- Singapore Zoo, 80 Mandai Lake Road (Bus 138 from Ang Mo Kio MRT), +65-62693411, [1]. 8:30 AM-6 PM daily. One of the best zoos in Asia, if not the world — it was endorsed by the late Steve Irwin and Animal Planet uses it for some of its documentaries. The animals are kept in spacious, landscaped enclosures, separated from the visitors by dry or wet moats. To spare yourself walking under the hot tropical sun, you can board a little train that trundles through the park, but it's still best to get there early. Bring along swimsuits for kids, so they can cool off in the "Kidz Zone". There's also a Jungle Breakfast ($25/16 adult/child extra), daily at 9 AM, where you're joined at a buffet breakfast by a host of critters from orangutans to otters and you can even try feeding the elephants; very popular, so book ahead. $18/9 adult/child (3-12 years).

- Night Safari, 80 Mandai Lake Road (Bus 138 from Ang Mo Kio MRT), [2]. 7:30 PM-midnight, last admission 11 PM. A part of the Zoo but located on completely separate grounds that are closed during the day, this is the world's first wildlife park built to be viewed at night. The grounds are in fact larger than the main Zoo and only parts are accessible to visitors on foot, so most people opt for the guided tram tour instead. There is a 30 minute show at the amphitheater with trained animal displays three times per night. (Sit in the center section three rows from the front for a nice surprise.) The tram tour is highly recommended unless you have the time to do a lot of walking and it brings you the eastern part of the park which is not accessible by walking. Lighting throughout the park is minimal, but sufficient. Stopping at the second tram station is a must as there is a walking path (The Leopard Trail) for viewing giraffes, flying squirrels, lions and others. Flash photography is not allowed, so a tripod is recommended. Some other animals you can expect to see include various types of tigers, elephants, bats, flamingos, porcupines, leopards, otters, badgers, and storks. $22/11 adult/child, tram $10/$6.

- Jurong BirdPark, 2 Jurong Hill (Bus 194/251 from Boon Lay MRT), [3]. A 20.2 hectare open-concept park dedicated to, you guessed it, birds in all shapes and sizes. The Park specializes in birds from Southeast Asia and the more exotic and colorful tropical birds, and its collection of more than 8,000 birds from 600 species is among the largest in the world. The park is attractively presented and quite enjoyable even if you aren't a hardcore ornithologist. To ease the pain of slogging around in the tropical heat, you can circle the park with the Panorail monorail. It features the tallest man made waterfall, at 30 meters. $18/9 adult/child, monorail $4.

Gardens
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- Botanic Gardens, Bukit Timah Rd, [4]. 5 AM-midnight. Once considered among the finest botanical gardens in the British empire, and still a firm favorite for visitors and locals alike. Features trees and plants from tropical climates around the world. Walking and jogging trails are throughout. Outdoor sculptures dot the gardens. Look for the girl on the swing that appears to hang from an invisible chain in the air. Picnicking is allowed, but there are also quite a few cafes and restaurants (see Eat). Free.

- National Orchid Garden, in the Botanic Gardens. 8:30 AM-7 PM. This is where you can spot Singapore's national flower, the Vanda Miss Joaquim orchid, and many more. Accessible by bus or car, parking at the visitor's center.Entrance fee S$5 as on jan 2011.

- Chinese Garden and Japanese Garden, next to Lakeside MRT. Otherwise rather lacklustre, these are only worth a visit during the Mid-Autumn Lantern Festival (Sep-Oct, exact date varies), when the garden is lit up with tens of thousands of lanterns, including complex installations with moving figures based on themes ranging from Hello Kitty to Chinese folk tales. $4.50, but $13/9 peak/off-peak during festival.

Historical
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Quite a few sites related to World War II are scattered around the island, but most will appeal only to war history buffs.

- Labrador Park and Labrador Secret Tunnels, Labrador Villa Rd (Bus 408 from HarbourFront MRT, runs on weekends/holidays only). 10 AM-6 PM, guided tours every hour. Opened in May 2005, there are two ways of looking at these two restored British-era bunkers: either they're done a pretty good job of making a tunnel interesting, or even if you dress it up with spot lights and recorded booms, it's still just a bunch of tunnels. There are also some machine gun posts, old artillery guns etc scattered about in Labrador Park, which also has some walking trails and quiet stretch of seashore opposite Sentosa. Park free, Secret Tunnels $8/5 adult/child.

- Memories at Old Ford Factory, 351 Upper Bukit Timah Road (Bus 173 from Bukit Batok MRT), +65-63327973, [5]. Mon-Sat 9 AM-5:30 PM, Sun noon-5:30 PM. War museum at the old Ford Motor Factory, where British Lt-General Percival surrendered Singapore to the Japanese. Focuses on the subsequent Japanese occupation and the experiences of both civilians and POWs with modern presentation and multimedia gadgetry, but if you're pressed for time, the Changi Chapel covers much the same territory and is probably the more interesting of the two. $3.

- Reflections at Bukit Chandu, 31-K Pepys Rd, [6]. 9 AM-5 PM Tue-Sun. Small but well-implemented commemorative museum for the last stand of the Malay Regiment in World War II's Battle of Bukit Chandu. Nearest bus stop Pasir Panjang Community Centre (lines 10, 30 from central Singapore), but it's still a bit of a hike up the hill from here. If visiting here, make a short detour to the free Canopy Walk next door (a part of the Southern Ridges Walk), an elevated footpath through the jungle offering nice views of Singapore's heartlands. $2.

Other
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- Haw Par Villa, 262 Pasir Panjang Rd (Bus 10, 30, 188 from HarbourFront or bus 143 from Orchard), +65-68722003. 9 AM-7 PM. Formerly the Tiger Balm Gardens, this is the former site of the villa of the Tiger Balm brothers, Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par, now packed with an incredibly bizarre assortment of statues illustrating Chinese legends and moral values. The most famous bit is the Ten Courts of Hell, which demonstrate in gruesome detail how sinners get punished in the underworld: for example, ingratitude is punished by grilling on a red hot copper pillar, while cheating in exams merits having your body dismembered and your intestines pulled out. Free entry, $1 for Ten Hells/Jade House.

- Kong Men San Phor Kark See Monastery, 88 Bright Hill Road (Bus 410 or 52 from Bishan MRT), +65-68495300, [7]. 5 AM-4:30 PM. Singapore's largest Buddhist temple and monastery sprawls over a hill in a residential suburb of Singapore. Founded in 1920, the present buildings are all oversized and rather gaudy concrete structures, but it's still a rather surreal place. The highlight is the Pagoda of 10,000 Buddhas, whose dome is decorated on the inside with, you guessed it, ten thousand tiny Buddha figures. Runs meditation retreats (mostly only in Chinese though) and gets packed with worshippers on major Buddhist holidays.

- Omni-Theatre, just beside the Singapore Science Centre. 10 AM-8 PM Tue-Sun. Omnimax movies and planetarium shows can be viewed on a tilted 23-meter-high screen. From Jurong East MRT, transfer to Bus 335 or walk 8 min from the station. $10/5 adult/child.

- Singapore Science Centre, 15 Science Centre Road, [8]. 10 AM-6 PM Tue-Sun. Set up to promote interest and learning in science and tecnhology through assortment of exhibits. There are more than 850 exhibits in the various exhibition galleries firmly aimed at younger children (6-10) and it is not possible to view all exhibits in one visit. There is also an interesting water park area near the front entrance. $6/3 adult/child.

Do
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To find out what a sauna full of bugs feel like, go for some steamy jungle hiking. Best times are very early in the morning or in the late afternoon.

- Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, Hindhede Drive, [9]. At 166 meters this is Singapore's highest point — if you don't count the city's skyscrapers. It is also one of the last places in Singapore that is home to the original primary tropical rainforest that used to cover the entire island. You can scale the hill in 15 minutes if you follow the paved road (boring) or 45-50 minutes if you do it the long way around (more interesting). Watch out for monkeys! Don´t expect a stunning view from the top, though. Almost nothing can be seen through the thick trees. Take SBS bus 170 or SMRT 67, 75, 171, 173, 184, 852 and 961 to the Courts department store on Upper Bukit Timah Rd and walk. Free.

- MacRitchie Reservoir, Lornie Road (bus 162, 166 from Scotts Rd), +65-64685736, [10]. Park open sunrise to sunset, Treetop Walk open 9 AM-5 PM Tue-Sun. Rather more exciting than it sounds, this serene artificial lake is surrounded by acres of virgin jungle (and not a few golf courses). On the north side, the HSBC Treetop Walk is a 250-meter bridge suspended as high as 27m above the ground. Trails range from 3 to 11 km, and are of different difficulty levels. One can even hike all the way to Bukit Timah. There is a basic food court at the south entrance, and a ranger station with toilets and water at the 4.5 km mark (near Treetop Walk) on the north side. The park is also a popular haunt of canoeing enthusiasts, joggers and strollers. For history buffs, this was also the site of a Shinto shrine (then called the Syonan Jinja) built by the Japanese during World War II, and the ruins of the shrine, while largely inaccessible without navigational equipment, still survive. Free.

- Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, (Kranji Express bus (hourly) from Kranji MRT), [11]. Daily 7:30 AM-7 PM. If you want to see a mangrove forest, this is your chance. As the reserve is basically a swamp, bring plenty of mosquito repellant and keep an eye out for crocodiles. The nature reserve is a site of international importance for migratory birds. It is also Singapore's first ASEAN heritage park. Free Mon-Fri, $1 Sat-Sun.

- West Coast Park, Parallel to West Coast Highway. Weekdays 10am-6pm, Weekends 10am-8pm. Much less crowded than East Coast Park, with fewer amenities, although you can explore it on pedal-go-kart. The western starting point of the Southern Ridges Walk.

And there are a few things to do that don't involve stomping about in the jungle:

- Delta Sports Complex, 900 Tiong Bahru Road (Redhill MRT), +65-64719030. 9 AM-8 PM (hours may vary by facility). ClubFITT gym, swimming pool, badminton, hockey and petanque courts.

- Singapore Turf Club (Kranji MRT), 1 Turf Club, +65-6879 1000, [12]. Host horse races, most commonly on Fridays (starting 6:30 PM) but occasionally on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday as well. Betting is allowed, making this a major draw for local gamblers. The Upper Grandstand is air-conditioned, while the Lower is not. $3/7 Lower/Upper Grandstand.

- Snow City, 21 Jurong Town Hall Road, [13]. 10:30 AM-6:30 PM Tue-Sun. The first permanent indoor snow center in Singapore; interesting enough for residents of the tropics but probably not on the top of the agenda for pallid Europeans escaping their own winter. Sledding, snowboarding and other wintry pursuits, including the inevitable subzero bar. $12/18 for 1/2 hours.

Buy
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There is little noteworthy shopping in the north or west. The major shopping malls are Jurong Point (nearest MRT station: Boon Lay) and IMM (nearest MRT station: Jurong East). A stroll around the HDB heartlands may uncover interesting finds, though, not to mention an authentic taste of ordinary Singaporean life.

Tourist attractions such as Singapore Zoological Gardens, Jurong Bird Park and Singapore Botanic Gardens have gift shops overflowing with cute plush toys and tacky local kitsch.

Eat
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Budget
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Hawker food is cheap in the boondocks, and there are a few culinary gems to be found — if you can find them, that is.

- Bao Gong XO Fish Head Bee Hoon, Blk 721 Clementi West St 2 #01-100. This place lets you find out what happens when you add XO cognac to fish soup. Less adventurous souls may want to try sliced fish instead of fish head...

- Joo Siah Bak Kut Teh, Blk 347 Jurong East Ave 1 #01-221 (MRT Chinese Garden). One of Singapore's best-known joints for bak kut teh (lit. "pork bone tea"), a peppery pork rib broth. Two bowls, rice and a serve of mui choy veggies will set you back $9.10; add in $0.50 for some you tiow fritters from the shop next door to dip in your soup. Open from Tuesday to Saturday 8 AM to 8 PM, and to 3 PM only on Sunday.

- Samy's Curry, 25 Dempsey Rd (near Botanical Gardens), +65-64722080. Daily 11 AM-3 PM, 6-10 PM. An old-school Singapore institution in an open-air colonial building, serving rice and curries on real banana leaves as ceiling fans whir. Waiters walk around with buckets of curry (very cheap) and take orders for tandoori, fish head curry and other treats (which can be more expensive). No air-con, no reservations, no alcohol. $5.

- Thasevi Food, 237/239 Jalan Kayu (5 min walk from Sengkang LRT Thanggam station). The original place for roti paratha (Indian-style bread with curry dip), although the size of the portions has shrunk as their fame has grown. Still, most serves clock in at less than $2, and you can sample unorthodox variants like banana paratha or ice cream paratha, complete with whipped cream and chocolate sauce. Try the chicken murtabak and the Indian rojak. Halal.

- Yan Kee Food Stall, Taman Jurong Market & Food Centre #03-137 (MRT Lakeside). A local legend for Chinese-style curry fish head ($14/17 small/large), the gravy is good to the last drop.

- Zhen Shan Mei Claypot Laksa, Blk 120 #01-75, Bukit Merah Lane 1, Alexandra Village. 8.30 AM to 3.30 PM. The best laksa in Singapore according to Makansutra and its many regulars. Expect to wait at least 30 minutes. Order with shrimp instead of cockles if raw shellfish is not your thing. Sold in sizes of $3/$4/$5.

Mid-range
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- Bollywood Veggies, 100 Neo Tiew Rd (Hourly Kranji Express shuttle or taxi from Kranji MRT), +65-68985001, [14]. Wed-Sun 9 AM-6 PM. Tucked away in rural Lim Chu Kang, this exuberantly colorful bistro with air-con and alfresco seating draws crowds on weekends with simple local dishes, made from fruits and vegetables grown on their backyard organic farm. The menu changes regularly, but favorites include their nasi lemak (coconut rice), banana curry, desserts like kueh kosui (coconut-brown sugar cake) and home-brewed teas. Kids can romp around the farm, while adults can pick up organic fruits, veggies and herbs to go. All meat is halal, but the restaurant is not certified. $12.

- Canopy Garden Dining, Bishan Park II 1382 Ang Mo Kio Ave 1, +65-65561533, [15]. Daily 8 AM-10 PM. Tucked away in Bishan Park and best known for serving brunch every day until 5 PM, after which you can move over to the bar and get sozzled on Oz wines. The menu also features soups, salads, pastas and other cafe food. Indoor and outdoor seating with great tropical views. $20.

- Colbar, 9A Whitchurch Road (off Portsdown Rd), +65-67794859. Tue-Sun 11 AM-10 PM. Stuck in the past and proud of it, this low-key eatery started life as a canteen for British soldiers, and fare like ox liver with peas and chips still figure prominently on the menu. Recently relocated (complete with original building) out of the way of an expressway, but still very popular. Try the famous curries if British grub isn't to your taste, and don't expect any frills like air-con. $10-15.

- Donna Carmela/Caipirinha, 2 Greenwood Ave, +65-64634206. Noon-3 PM, 6:30-10:30 PM. A family-run Brazilian churrascaria and an Italian restaurant with a vast array of pasta sharing the same premises, offering excellent home cooking in unpretentious surroundings. Their popularity is further cemented by the Italian wines they import direct and sell at retail prices from $25/bottle. Book ahead on weekends. $30.

- Green Room Café, Bishan Park II, 1382 Ang Mo Kio Ave 1, 6556 1533, [16]. 11am to 10pm daily. Vegetarian cuisine in the quiet green setting of Bishan Park.

- Lim Seng Lee Duck Rice, 38 South Buona Vista Rd. Well-regarded specialist restaurant serving up tender boneless duck with their special sauce; be sure to order some "spare parts", their name for liver and gizzard. Prices above average but worth it. $10-22.

- The Lodge on Flamingo Lake, in Jurong Bird Park. Visitors to the Bird Park may wish to dine here for local food at reasonable prices, coupled with views of nearly 10,000 pink flamingos. $10-20.

- Marina Bistro, 10 Tuas West Drive. In the Raffles Marina at the extreme west of Singapore right next to Second Link bridge to Malaysia, offers very competent Singaporean and Western food. Try the excellent beef satay. Open to non-members for lunch and dinner daily; to get there, take exit 25 from the AYE, immediately before the Tuas checkpoint. $10-15.

- The Olive, Labrador Villa Rd (next to Labrador Secret Tunnels), [17]. Fairly decent pizza and pasta in a very attractive setting in the lush greenery of Labrador Park. $15.

- Zi Yean Food Centre, Block 56 Lengkok Bahru #01-443, +65-6474-0911. Locally famed outdoor coffee shop serving up Cantonese dishes like mui choy chicken (stuffed with pickled veggies), prawns wrapped in tofu skin and deep-fried, kangkong with century eggs, and abalone with chicken (a steal at $5/plate). Prices generally reasonable but some dishes can be expensive. Open for lunch and dinner, closed alternate Wednesdays.

Splurge
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The Bukit Timah area to the west of the city is one of Singapore's poshest residential districts featuring many high-quality restaurants, particularly in the expatriate enclave of Holland Village [18]. Another good option is Dempsey Hill [19], a convenient cluster of British-era army barracks converted into restaurants for the expat set, just ten minutes from Orchard Rd.

- Beaulieu House Restaurant, 117 Beaulieu Road (Sembawang), +65 6257-9234, [20]. 11:00am - 2:30pm, 6:00pm - 11:00pm. On Singapore's northern coast, the restaurant is housed in a old colonial-style bungalow that is believed to have been built around 1910, and has sea views towards Johor. Both Western and Chinese food is served. Best reached by taxi.

- Borgo, 789 Bukit Timah Rd (off Sixth Ave), +65-64467762. Wed-Mon noon-2 PM, 6-10 PM. Small Italian eatery specializing in Tuscan charcoal grills. The pastas are also excellent, but pizzas are mediocre. Reasonably priced and very popular, so book ahead, especially on weekends. $40.

- Brazil Churrascaria, 14-16 Sixth Ave, +65-64631923. Waiters walk around with meat-laden skewers, just choose and eat. Decent salad buffet for the vegetarian contingent too. Open daily for dinner only. All you can eat $37++ (drinks not included).

- Margarita's, Blk 11 Dempsey Rd #01-19 (branches at East Coast Rd, Faber Drive), +65-64713228. Popular eatery featuring reasonably authentic Mexican eats like enchiladas with mole poblano (chocolate) sauce and refried beans, washed down with their namesake margaritas. Fills up fast on weekends with expats out to satisfy their Tex-Mex cravings, so book ahead. $40.

- Original Sin, #01-62 Chip Bee Gardens, +65-64755605. Tue-Sun 11:30 AM-2:30 PM, 6-11 PM. Continues to win awards for its Mediterranean vegetarian food. Lunch $20, dinner $40-.

Another small cluster of upscale restaurants is nestled on the grounds of the Botanic Gardens.

- Au Jardin Les Amis, +65-64668812, [21]. Part of the "Les Amis" group of restaurants and situated in a restored 1920s residence in the Gardens. The food is mostly French with some other European dishes thrown in and many given a little Asian twist, but given the very high prices the quality is a little wobbly. There is a superb wine list and a very helpful sommelier on hand to answer questions. The views of the garden are gorgeous. Enter through the Corner House Gate and follow signs to Au Jardin/EJH Corner House (the name of the building which houses the restaurant). Reservations recommended. $150-200.

- Casa Verde, +65 64677326. Daily 7.30 AM-11 PM. Located right at the entrance of the Visitor Centre, offers a mixed menu of local and Italian food at slightly elevated prices, but this is still by far the cheapest and most casual place to eat in the Gardens. The best pick here is the large wood-fired pizzas from $20.

- Chinese Box Restaurant, House 4, 1D Cluny Road, +65 6219 7877, [22]. Open daily, lunch noon-3 PM, dinner 6-11 PM. Located on the National University of Singapore Bukit Timah campus at the edge of the Gardens in a charming late colonial bungalow. The menu is pan-Chinese, the house special being Beijing duck ($4 per portion or $68 for the whole duck), a northern Chinese dish not often seen in Singapore. All in all, competent but not out of the ordinary, and there's a small price premium for the location.

- Halia Restaurant & Villa Halia, +65-64766711, [23]. Mon-Fri 11 AM-11 PM, Sat-Sun 9 AM-11 PM. The location in the Ginger Garden of the Botanic Gardens is a reason in itself to visit especially at night, with stunning floodlit views of the surrounding jungle. The food is international with Asian twists, and while consistently excellent comes at a fairly steep price. To get there, enter the Gardens by the Tyersall Ave side entrance and walk a few minutes following the signs. Indoor and outdoor seating available, reservations recommended. $120.

Drink
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Except for the odd karaoke TV pub, beer at your favorite hawker stall and a few low-key hangouts in expat enclave Holland Village, the north and west of Singapore were long virtually devoid of nightlife. However, since 2006 there has been a veritable boom of colonial black & white bungalows being repurposed into upscale dining and drinking complexes, with areas like Portsdown Rd, Rochester Park and Tanglin Village (Dempsey Rd) now buzzing on weekends.

- Baden-Baden, 42 Lorong Mambong (Holland Village). Mon-Fri 3 PM-midnight, Sat-Sun noon-1 AM. Well known restaurant-pub with German fare. Wood paneling, pork knuckles, German beer and good service.

- Klee, 5B Portsdown Road, #01-04 Wessex Estate, +65-64796911. Mon-Sat 6 PM-1 AM. A low-key colonial bungalow tucked away in a quiet nook (blink and you'll miss it when driving past), this is a great place for a chilled-out drink with friends. There's no menu, so tell the waiter what you're feeling like, perhaps suggesting an ingredient, and they'll come up with a cocktail just for you, using fresh fruits and herbs. Beware the "Cocktail Nazi" seating arrangements though: you will not be served unless you can snag one of the dozen or so inside seats, with the outdoor terrace allowing wine and beer only. $20.

- One Rochester, 1 Rochester Park, +65-67730070, [24]. 6 PM to 1 AM daily, breakfast from 9 AM on Sundays. Two-floor bungalow with a well-stocked wine bar, a lush outdoor seating area and DJ playing jazz and funky tunes, visiting this feels like crashing a Singaporean house party. $15.

- Oosh, 22 Dempsey Rd (Tanglin Village), +65-64750002, [25]. Noon-2:30 PM, 6 PM-1/2 AM weekdays/weekends. Slick complex divided into no less than nine parts set around a garden, options include an air-con wine cellar and a rooftop lookout with views over the jungle. A great place for drinks, especially when the Latin band is playing, but the food here is forgettable; although, unusually for Singapore, the kitchen does stay open late. $15.

Sleep
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It's not really advisable to stay far from the centre in Singapore, but if you want to try life as the Singaporeans live it, you have one good choice:

- Hostel One66, Block 166 Woodlands Street 13 #01-545 (near Marsiling MRT), [26]. A family-run 12-bed hostel opened in March 2004. Dorms $18, singles $45.

District East Coast Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Cope

Laundry

• Contact

Get in
toc

The East-West MRT runs the length of the East Coast all the way from the center to Pasir Ris and Changi Airport.

If you've got one day to spare, consider taking in the Changi Chapel and Pulau Ubin, with a lunch break at Changi Village and a seafood spread for dinner.

See
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Tourist literature usually hawks the restored (and, in the daytime, near-empty) Arab Street near Bugis, but Geylang Serai is the true home of Singapore's Malay community. Especially during the Islamic month of Ramadan leading up to Hari Raya Puasa (Eid ul-Fitr), the entire area lights up in celebration as people eat and shop in the evenings after the sun goes down.

- Changi Chapel and Museum, 1000 Upper Changi Road North (Bus 29 from Tampines MRT or bus 2 from Tanah Merah), [1]. 9:30 AM to 4:30 PM daily. Singapore's memorial to the notorious WW2 Japanese POW camp, the setting of James Clavell's King Rat. The current site is a reconstruction and in a different location, but contains a replica of the original chapel and informative exhibits about the squalid conditions of the prison. Free.

- Malay Village, 39 Geylang Serai. 10 AM to 10 PM. A rather artificial recreation of Malay kampong (village) life in the heart of Geylang. $10.

- Sengkang LRT, (Change at Sengkang MRT), [2]. 5.45 AM to 12:40AM daily. For the transport enthusiast or those interested in seeing the housing in which many Singaporeans live, the light rail is well worth a ride, as it traverses past row upon row of unit blocks. On the West Loop, detour to Jalan Kayu from LRT Thanggam station for some of Singapore's best prata (see Eat). Up to $1.10.

The East Coast's second area of historical interest is Katong and Joo Chiat, which retain a smattering of traditional shophouses and shops specializing in Peranakan crafts and food. The area is a fairly lengthy hike from Eunos, the nearest MRT station, but can be reached by eg. bus 12 from Bugis. There is also plenty of great food in the area.

- Kim Choo, 109/111 East Coast Road, +65-67412125, [3]. Housed in an old Peranakan shophouse, Singaporeans know this shop best for its dumplings (kueh chang), but they've opened up their second story for visitors and also operate a Peranakan restaurant and gift shop with pottery, beadwork, kebayas and more. While most of what you see comes from China (as it did even back in the old days), some of their wares are still made in Singapore, and they conduct regular cooking and arts classes.

- Koon Seng Road. A section of this short street, between Joo Chiat and Still Rds, has what are probably Singapore's prettiest shophouses. Houses on one side of the street are multicolored, while the other has more soberly decorated shophouses with elaborate flower-themed curlicues.

Do
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The best bits of eastern Singapore are its beaches. In addition to the ones below, try Pasir Ris or Punggol to really get off the tourist trail. Camping and barbeque permits for all parks are available at AXS [4].

- East Coast Park, [5]. The largest park in Singapore, it is a highly popular hangout for couples, groups of friends and families. The water is on the murky side, but the (imported) white sand, palm trees, and skimpily clad rollerbladers zooming past on the promenade make up for it. Mana Mana [6] and Water-Venture [7] rent watersports gear (kayak $5/hr, windsurfing, etc), while Ski 360 [8] offers cable-towed wakeboarding (from $32/hr). Bicycle and skate rental are also available. Camping, fishing and barbeques allowed.

- Pulau Ubin, [9]. Singapore's flashback to yesteryear, a little island off the northern coast where people still live in fishing villages on stilts. The island is covered in biking trails and is an excellent spot for a little steamy jungle offroading; bike rentals go for as low as $2 a day, and the 45-hectare Ketam Mountain Bike Park has a good 10-km trail. At the east end of the island, reachable by bike or shuttle bus from the jetty, are the Chek Jawa Wetlands, with a mangrove boardwalk, an observation tower and a visitor centre. Access to the island requires a bit of effort though: take the MRT to Tanah Merah, then ride bus 2 to the bus terminal in Changi Village (alternatively MRT to Simei, then bus 9 that passes Changi Village by), find the jetty and hop on a bumboat ($2.50 each way) for the 10-minute ride to the island.

- Changi Beach, near Changi Village, [10]. Right next to Changi Airport, you can watch (and hear) the neverending parade of airplanes from here. Usually full of local picnickers, but not too many sunbathers or swimmers around. If you walk along the beach to the southeast, you will eventually pass by Bedok Jetty and arrive at East Coast Park.

- Gallop Stable, 61 Pasir Ris Green (10-minute walk from MRT Pasir Ris), +65-65839665, [11]. Tue-Sun 8 AM-noon, 2-7 PM. Singapore's the first public riding school. Ponies only, maximum weight for riders 70 kg, $10/ride.

- Forest Adventure, 825 Bedok Reservoir Road, +65-81007420, [12]. Live out your Tarzan in the jungle fantasies by completing this two-hour obstacle course: swing from trees to trees, climb rope ladders and finally, abseil down across the reservoir. Kids Course minimum age/height 5 years/1.1m, Grand Course 10 years/1.4m (under-18s must be accompanied by adult). Advance booking required. $34/22 Grand/Kids Course.

- Mangrove Boardwalk at Pasir Ris Park, [13]. One of the fewer remaining stretches of mangroves in Singapore. You can spot mudskippers, fiddler crabs and a wide variety of butterflies.

Buy
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- Geylang Serai Market, Jln Turi (5 min from MRT Paya Lebar). The heart of Singapore's Muslim community and long one of the most atmospheric markets in Singapore, the original dense warren was unceremoniously demolished in 2006. The new version, opened in 2009, is a bland, vaguely Malay-styled two-story building, but it still has a wide array of Malay and Middle Eastern goods and gets positively packed around Ramadan.

Eat
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The East Coast is home to many of Singapore's best-known dishes, including chilli crab, Katong laksa and roti prata. The strech of Geylang Road between Paya Lebar and Kallang MRT stations is arguably the most vibrant part of Singapore. Despite being famous for its red light district and abundance of sleazy karaoke bars, the area is also home to some of Singapore's best kept culinary secrets, and is a favourite for locals heading out for supper with friends. Don't expect air-conditioning, white tablecloths and sommeliers though, most budget and mid-range eateries here are in grungy but occasionally atmospheric 19th-century shophouses.

Budget
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Katong is the undisputed home of laksa, the coconutty noodle soup that's one of Singapore's national dishes, but there's still plenty of dispute about who came up with it first and who does it best.

- 328 Katong Laksa, 51 East Coast Rd. Just across the street from #49, this was one of the factions of the "laksa wars" of yore. Now franchised all over Singapore, but this is the original, still supervised by the owner.

- Famous 49 Katong Laksa, 49 East Coast Rd (Hong Tock Hin, off Ceylon Rd). The stall that started it all. No longer run by the original operators, but still one of the best.

- Marine Parade Laksa, 59 East Coast Rd #01-57/59. Run by the people who originally ran #49, although some think the quality has gone down (see Zhen Shan Mei in Jurong for the competition).

There are plenty of other famous yet cheap eats in the neighborhoods of the East Coast.

- International Muslim Food, Blk 2 Changi Village Rd #01-57. This nondescript stall has a neverending queue for Singapore's best nasi lemak, Malay-style coconut rice with fried chicken, chili, egg and various goodies. Quite honestly, it's not that different from what you'll get elsewhere, but the fast turnover alone means that it's fresh and tasty. $2.50/plate.

Mid-range
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The red-light district of Geylang is also famous for its culinary delights. Shops here tend to be no-frills affairs, but the food can be great and prices are reasonable.

- Sin Huat Seafood, 659-661 Geylang Rd (off Lorong 35). Looks very unassuming, but the crab bee hoon stewed in rice noodles is legendary. Cooked to order, so expect to wait up to an hour and expect 'legendary' service as well: they won't serve you if you are eating duck rice from the neighboring shop. Prices have gone up since the shop was featured on Anthony Bourdain's TV show. $60-80/crab (enough for 2-3).

- Turtle House, 403 Guillemard Road (at corner of Geylang Lorong 36), +65-67451248, [14]. Daily 11:30 AM to midnight. The speciality here is turtle soup ($14 upwards), but the menu also has a whole slew of other amphibian dishes, ranging from the merely exotic (frog legs) to the outright bizarre (crocodile flippers, turtle skin and intestines). Air-con and outdoor seating. $30.

Splurge
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Above all, the East Coast is associated with fresh seafood, which is often excellent but always rather pricey; check prices before you order! The two primary clusters are in and near Marina Cove on the East Coast Parkway further out, and Kallang Oasis nearer to the city. Some better known restaurants:

- Jumbo Seafood, 1206 and 1208 East Coast Parkway, +65-64423435, [15]. Best known for its chilli crabs. Other outlets at Riverside Point (opposite Clarke Quay), Serangoon Gardens, Changi and Riverwalk, but this is the original.

- Little Red House, East Coast Parkway. Another chilli crab joint.

- No Signboard Seafood, outlets at ECP and Kallang Oasis. Known for its butter crabs.

- Long Beach Seafood Restaurant, 1018 East Coast Parkway, +65-64458833, [16]. Known for a wide variety of seafood including black pepper crab and butter crayfish and one of the most crowded seafood restaurants in the East Coast area on weekends. One should also try the duck they serve, which is prepared in a unique way and is available only at the main branch. Other branches can be found in Jurong East and Marina South.

- The Mango Tree, 1000 East Coast Parkway, Blk B, Unit 23, +65-64428655, [17]. Offers Kerala-style Indian seafood in a tastefully decorated beachside restaurant, quite unlike the raucous Chinese places above. Plenty of vegetarian options too. $40.

Drink
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Aside from a few beer bars in the East Coast Park there are few places to drink on the East Coast. The notable exception is Geylang, adjacent to but distinct from Geylang Serai, which is Singapore's largest red-light district. Rule of thumb is, the establishments on odd-numbered alleys (lorong) are legit, while those on even-numbered ones are brothels.

Sleep
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Most of the East Coast's accommodation consists of cheap hotels in and around the red-light districts of Geylang and Joo Chiat, many of which rent rooms by the hour. The ubiquitous Hotel 81 [18] chain alone has 11 hotels in the area. Still, if you're on a budget and don't mind the local nightlife, Geylang/Joo Chiat are definitely worth considering: the rates are among the cheapest in town, the late night eating options are unparalleled, the area is perfectly safe, and both the airport and the city aren't too far away.

Budget
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Camping is allowed in designated areas of Changi Beach Park, East Coast Park, Pasir Ris Park and Pulau Ubin. All have showers and toilets and are free to use for stays of up to five days, although you have to register with park officers or online at AXS [19].

- 98SG Hostel, 96A Lor 27 Geylang, Singapore (1 min from Aljunied MRT Station), +65-62261221 (book@98sg.com), [20]. Clean, good beds, air-conditioned, free wifi, free breakfast. lockers free of charge. laundry and dryer available extra charge. Very close to MRT, Library, Olympic size swimming pool. Dorm $12-26, room from $45.

- WOW Hostel, 67B Lor 27 Geylang, Singapore (1 min from Aljunied MRT Station), +65-91009123 (book@wowhostels.com), [21]. Brand new boutique hostel, with privacy wall. Good security with card access. Great to have universal power point, usb charger and reading light on every bed. Clean,safe, good beds, powerful air-conditioned, free wifi, free internet(regardless of how long you use), free breakfast. Lockers free of charge. Good water preasure hot/cold showers. Very close to MRT, Library, Olympic size swimming pool. Dorm $16-26, room from $45.

- Betel Box Hostel Singapore, 200 Joo Chiat Rd, Katong District (Paya Lebar MRT), +65 62477340, [22]. checkin: 1PM; checkout: 11AM. Free bed linen, use of a security locker, free 30 mins broadband Internet access, free unlimited wifi, free use of fitness centre. All rooms are air-conditioned and there are hot and cold showers. $20 including breakfast.

- Ideal Backpackers Hostel, 89 Geylang Rd (Kallang MRT), +65-6846 4741, [23]. Dorm $20, room from $45.

Mid-range
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- Gateway Hotel, 60 Joo Chiat Road #01-06 (100m to Paya Lebar MRT), +65-63420988, [24]. One of the few hotels around here with some character, the 82-room Gateway is housed in a restored shophouse and the theme rooms come in flavors including "Safari", "Paradiso", "Tatami" and even "Da Bronx". The standard rooms, though, are nondescript but clean. Internet and self-service laundry available. $98/148 standard/theme double.

- Goldkist Beach Resort, 1110 East Coast Parkway, +65-64484747, [25]. An almost historic place which holds some good memories for most Singaporeans. Its also one of the few locations right on the beach. Big rooms and close proximity to the airport make it a good location to come with families. From $118.

Splurge
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- Changi Village Hotel, 1 Netheravon Rd, +65-63797111, [26]. Formerly known as Le Meridien Changi Village, the hotel has since changed its management and gone through a long-overdue renovation. It is located at Changi Village, an otherwise sleepy enclave of cheap (but surprisingly good) eateries and pubs, and is about 15 mins by taxi from the airport. The hotel also provides an hourly airport shuttle bus for its guests. The downside is that it is somewhat out of the way and public transport can be rather inconvenient, so visitors staying here should consider renting a car to get around. $180.

- Crowne Plaza Changi Airport, 75 Airport Blvd #01-01, +65-68235300, [27]. Opened April 2008, this four-star airport hotel is directly connected to Changi's Terminal 3 and easily reached from T1/T2, but you do have to pass through immigration to stay here. Pool, gym, spa, bar, two restaurants, pay-per-minute Internet. $240.

Cope
toc

Laundry
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- Systematic Laundromat, 80 Marine Parade Road #04-K1/K2 (Parkway Parade, 15 min from Eunos MRT), +65-64401554. Self-service laundromat. 30 min washing machine for up to 6 kg of laundry for $6, then $1/8 min cycle of the dryer.

- Wonder Wash, 1 Lorong 23 Geylang, High Point (5 min from Aljunied MRT), +65-9786 0239. 24hrs Self-service laundromat. 32 min washing machine for up to 8 kg of laundry for $4, then $1/10 min cycle of the dryer.

Contact
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East Coast Rd has a slew of cheap Internet cafes. Try Red Hot Internet Café at 63 East Coast Rd or CyberWorld Communications at 67 East Coast Rd, both offering rates of $1/hour.

District Sentosa Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• Get around

By bus

By tram

By train

• See

• Do

Resorts World Sentosa

Elsewhere

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

Understand
toc

Formerly known by the rather unattractive name of Pulau Belakang Mati ("The Island After Death" in Malay) and the centerpiece of Britain's spectacularly unsuccessful "Fortress Singapore" strategy in World War II, Sentosa has been rebranded and resculpted into one big tourist attraction, popular among Singaporeans as a quick island getaway. The new jewel in the crown is Resorts World [2], an enormous complex comprising a Universal Studios themepark, Singapore's first casino, shopping malls and hotels.

The small southern islets of Kusu Island, St. John's Island, the Sisters Islands and Pulau Hantu are managed by Sentosa. Various plans to develop them have not come to much and they remain off the beaten track, but by no means undiscovered. The first two can be reached by public ferry, for the rest you will have to charter a boat.

Get in
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Basic admission to the island will set you back $2 per person. There is an ever-changing palette of combination tickets that may work out marginally cheaper if you plan to visit multiple attractions. The island is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, although many of the attractions are not.

The best way is in to take the North-East Line of the MRT to HarbourFront and then make your way to Level 3 of Vivocity, where you'll find the Sentosa Express monorail to the island. The train operates every 5-8 minutes from 7AM to 11:45PM daily, and an round-trip ticket costs $3 (island admission included, EZ-Link accepted). The cheapest way though, is to take an SMRT bus [3] for $2:

- RWS 8 from VivoCity/HarbourFront MRT

- RWS 68 from Outram MRT (weekends only)

- RWS 88 from City Hall MRT (weekends only)

By taxi or private car, you'll need to pay $2 to $7 per vehicle to enter, and a $3 taxi surcharge also applies on the way out. It is now possible to walk across the bridge via the Sentosa Broadwalk ($1, EZ-Link accepted)[4] .

The Cable Car [5] between Sentosa, HarbourFront and Mt. Faber has completed its renovation and reopened to public in July 2010.

Sentosa's ferry terminal has been demolished to make way for the casino, but there are still limited ferry services [6] from downtown Singapore's Marina South Pier (bus 402 from Marina Bay MRT) to the southern islands of Kusu and St. John. Monday through Saturday, there are two services a day, leaving at 10AM and 1:30PM, looping to Kusu, St. John, Kusu again and then back to Marina South. This gives you one hour on Kusu, which is plenty for seeing the sights. On Sundays and holidays only, there are five services, at 9AM, 11AM, 1PM, 3PM and 5PM, which run to Kusu, St. John and then return directly to Marina South, giving a minimum of two hours on any island you go to. All ferries cost $15 return, no Sentosa entry fee needed.

Get around
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All transportation around Sentosa (except taxis) is free.

By bus
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Three colored shuttle bus services — Yellow Line, Red Line and Blue Line — connect Imbiah Station to various points on the island. Buses run from 7AM-11PM on weekdays and until 12:30 AM on Fri/Sat.

By tram
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Beach trams supplemented by minivans shuttle people along the beaches every 15-20 minutes. One service connects Beach Station to Siloso Beach, another connects Beach Station to Palawan and Tanjong Beaches.

By train
toc

The old round-the-island Sentosa Monorail was decommissioned in March 2005 to make way for the new Sentosa Express, which can also be used to shuttle between the beaches and Imbiah Station (near the Merlion).

See
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Long a bit of a joke — Singaporean wags like to quip that "Sentosa" actually stands for "So Expensive and Nothing to See Actually" — Sentosa's attractions have received some much-needed upgrades in recent years, with the worst of the lot unceremoniously demolished. Offerings of interest to adults are still quite limited, but at there's enough to keep children amused for a day or two. For all attractions below, a "child" is defined as being between three and twelve.

- Tiger Sky Tower, near Cable Car (blue/green bus), [7]. 9AM-9PM daily. Asia's tallest observation tower. It takes you up to a height of 131 m above sealevel and offers a 360-degree view of Sentosa, Singapore and the Southern islands. On clear days the outlines of Malaysia and Indonesia can be seen. $10/7 adult/child.

- Dolphin Lagoon, Siloso Point (yellow/red bus). Has cute pink dolphins doing all the usual tricks (jumping through hoops, balancing balls, etc).llll Shared ticket with Underwater World.

- Fort Siloso, near Underwater World (all buses, then transfer to tram), [8]. 10AM-6PM. Formerly the largest British naval base in Fortress Singapore, its guns staring balefully out towards the sea in preparation for enemy attack. The Japanese rode bikes down the peninsula instead; after your visit here, be sure to visit the Battle Box at Fort Canning Hill to find out what happened next. Now turned into a museum, you can follow a tour through the area (complete with lots of wax figures) to find out what the life of a recruit was like. Nearly doubled in size in 2004. $8/5 adult/child.

- Images of Singapore, near Cable Car Station (green, blue bus). 9AM-7PM. A sugar-coated, kid-friendly retelling of the official Singapore story, where people of many races have come together to live in harmony. Renovated in 2006 and now uses the latest technology, but there is not all that much substance under the glitz. $10/7 adult/child.

- Sentosa Merlion, (Imbiah Station). 10AM-8PM. A stretched-out 37-metre version of the statue by the Singapore River, which is lit up at night and shoots lasers from its eyes. Admission enables you to take the elevator up into its mouth and gaze out over the nearby Port of Singapore, as well as experience some seriously cheesy exhibits downstairs. $8/5 adult/child.

- Sentosa Luge & Skyride, Beach Station. Up the hill in a ski lift and down again in a steerable bobsled. Kid safe. Good attraction for younger kids as the incline of the track hinders going very fast. Not very exciting for those over 15. If you are inclined to go, resist temptation to purchase multiple trips until trying it the first time. The newer Dragon Trail is closed on rainy days. $10 single ride, plus $1 for child riding with adult.

- Songs of the Sea, (Beach Station). Daily at 7:40PM and 8:40PM. Multimedia extravaganza with live cast, pyrotechnics, water jets and lasers. Very popular, so book ahead, especially on weekends. $10.

- Underwater World, near Siloso Beach (all buses), [9]. Claims to be Asia's largest tropical oceanarium, it features a walk-through aquarium with lots of sharks and fishes and many smaller tanks. $22.90/14.60 adult/child, includes admission to Dolphin Lagoon.

There are a few sights of minor interest on Kusu Island, reachable by ferry. The name means "Turtle Island" and there are indeed lots of the reptiles scampering about, but don't expect an unspoiled tropical paradise: the island was thoroughly reworked with land reclamation in 1975 and looks exactly like the rest of Sentosa.

- Da Bogong (Tua Pekong) Temple, Kusu Island. An unassuming little Taoist temple dedicated to the Merchant God. This is the focal point of the yearly Kusu Festival (Oct-Nov), when pilgrims come to the island to pray for prosperity.

- Keramat Kusu, Kusu Island. An unusual Muslim shrine (not a mosque) atop a small hill, dedicated to the saint Syed Abdul Rahman and his family, who lived here in the 19th century. The shrine is painted bright yellow and is visited in particular by childless couples.

Do
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Resorts World Sentosa
toc

Resorts World Sentosa can be reached via the Waterfront station of the monorail or via the dedicated "RWS" buses from Harbourfront and other points in Singapore (see Get in).

- Casino, Crockfords Tower B1M, Resorts World Sentosa (RWS buses, Waterfront Station), [10]. 24 hours. Singapore's first casino is tucked away underground underneath the Crockfords Tower hotel. There are 500 gaming tables offering 19 different games, but the emphasis is on Asian favorites like baccarat, roulette, tai sai and pai gow, with poker a distinct minority. A dress code applies: no slippers, no singlets and no shorts. Overseas guests free entry, Singaporean/Permanent Residents $100 Casino Levy.

- Universal Studios Singapore, Resorts World Sentosa (RWS buses, Waterfront Station), 65778899, [11]. 10AM- 7PM Mon-Sun, 7PM-10PM Fri-Sat (Hollywood After Hours). The first Universal Studios theme park in Southeast Asia opened its doors in March 2010 — but only partly, with some rides to be added later. During the soft opening period, tickets are limited and for time being only available online. There are seven zones: Hollywood, New York, Sci-Fi City, Ancient Egypt, The Lost World, Far Far Away and Madagascar, with tickets valid for all rides in all zones. The star of the park is Battlestar Galactica, the world's tallest "dueling" rollercoaster, with two tracks battling it out simultaneously: "Cylon" suspends you in the air, with plenty of loops and inversions, while "Human" is seated and reaches speeds of up to 90 km/h. Weekdays $66/48 adult/child, weekends $72/52.

- Voyage de la Vie, Festive Grand, Resorts World Sentosa (RWS buses, Waterfront Station), 65778899, [12]. A circus theatre spectacular, “Voyage de la Vie” (french for “journey of life”) is about the story of The Boy’s metaphoric journey to seek the true meaning of life. The story is told through song and dance, combining with the energy, physicality and athleticism of circus arts, resulting in a contemporary cutting edge performance art form which fully engages the senses and keeps audiences on the edge of their seats. The first circus theatre spectacular ever to be created in Singapore, it presents an international cast of circus stars brought together from 16 countries. Singapore Idol runner-up Jonathan Leong was also featured as the lead vocalist in this unique production. This resident show premieres in June 2010 and it is currently running at Festive Grand in Resorts World Sentosa.

Elsewhere
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The prisoner of Sentosa

Most people feel they can see Sentosa in a day — how about being confined to the island for over three years? This was the fate of Chia Thye Poh, a member of the opposition Barisan Sosialis, who was arrested in 1966 under the Internal Security Act. He was asked to sign a document renouncing violence and ties with the Communist Party of Malaya, but Chia, a man of principle, refused as he had no such ties and had never advocated violence. Never charged or brought to trial, he was held in prison for 23 years, becoming the world's second-longest-serving political prisoner after Nelson Mandela, and was "released" only in 1989 to house arrest on Sentosa. He was allowed to move back to the mainland in 1992 and had all restrictions lifted in 1998.

Among Singaporeans the most popular reason to go to Sentosa is to hit the beaches: Siloso, Palawan and Tanjong from west to east respectively. All three are artificial, but does it really matter? Unfortunately the water is rather murky due to the neverending parade of ships across the Straits. Siloso has a nice beach promenade full of clubs and restaurants, some rather noisy, while Palawan claims to be the southernmost point of continental Asia (if you count the bridge connecting Sentosa, and ignore any competing Malaysian claims). Tanjong, the quietest of the three, is the place for beach volleyball and also hosts the low-key beach club KM8 (see Drink).

- Fish Reflexology, Underwater World (near ticket booth), +65-62799229. Daily 10AM-7PM. For a spa treatment with a difference, pop in to have fish nibble dead skin off your feet. You have a choice between "gentle" Turkish fish and "aggressive" African ones: neither will cause damage, but the African ones are pretty ticklish! The treatment concludes with foot reflexology or head and shoulder massage, performed more traditionally by humans. $35/40 min.

- Sentosa Golf Club, 27 Bukit Manis Road, +65-62750022, [13]. The only golf club in Singapore open to the public, it features two famously challenging 18-hole courses and hosts the yearly Barclays Singapore Open. When sipping your gin and tonic in the clubhouse, raise a toast to Chia Thye Poh (see box), who was for years held under house arrest in a one-room guardhouse in the club grounds. $120 weekdays, $220 weekends.

- Spa Botanica, 2 Bukit Manis Road (near The Sentosa Resort), +65-63711318, [14]. Singapore first self-proclaimed "tropical garden spa". Shared facilities are limited to a swimming pool and a mud bath, but a wide range of treatments are available. $100-300.

The nearby islands of Kusu and St. John also offer some beaches, which are quieter but otherwise not much different from those on Sentosa itself. St. John is also a popular spot for fishing.

Buy
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Every corner of Sentosa is inundated with gift shops filled with all the plush Merlion toys you will ever need (and then some).

- VivoCity, HarbourFront MRT, [15]. This giant complex on the mainland just next to the Sentosa bridge is Singapore's largest shopping mall, featuring anchor tenants like The Gap, two giant food courts and creative landscaping. There is a huge hypermarket featuring Singapore's largest organic supermarket. The Sentosa Express monorail station is integrated into the mall, and the Singapore Cruise Centre is connected to VivoCity via a bridge to the HarbourFront Centre, where there are also other shops as well.

Visitor Essentials

By presenting their passports at any Customer Service Counter, tourists can redeem a free tourist kit that features discounts and deals at participating stores at VivoCity all year round. They also receive exclusive "I Love VivoCity" badges as mementos.

During Great Singapore Sale[16] (27 May to 24 July 2011), spending $100 entitles tourists to a $10 Most Original Burgers dining voucher. Exclusive to MasterCard, cardholders only need to charge $80 to qualify. Redemptions may be made at any Customer Service Counter.

Eat
toc

As you might expect from a giant amusement park, food on Sentosa is (by Singaporean standards) rather pricey and mediocre. Things have, however, gotten slightly better in recent years with local chains allowed to open up outlets. For cheaper food options, grab a bite at either VivoCity or HarbourFront Centre.

Budget
toc

- Seah Im Food Centre, Seah Im Road (across road from Vivocity). Popular with locals, has a range of Indian Muslim food stalls and a variety of local cuisine. The building is rather old, but the food is quite good. $5.

- Food Republic VivoCity, 1 HarbourFront Walk, #03-01. Themed like a collection of 1960s hawkers, only with air-conditioning (and hygiene). Slightly expensive for a food court, but the selection is good and it's usually packed. $5-6.

- Koufu, Palawan Beach. 9AM-9PM. The only foodcourt on Sentosa with the local food found in any run of the mill foodcourt. Food prices are ridiculously priced as compared to mainland prices. Food all right, but there are tastier options around. $4-$6.

- 7/11, Below Monorail Stations. 24 hours. The only store in Sentosa that sells drinks below 3 dollars. Good for a snack. Similar to mainland prices.

Mid-range
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- Thanying, 1 Larkhill Road (Amara Sanctuary Resort), 6825 3881. Daily 11.30AM-3.30PM, 6.30-10.30PM. A branch of the well-known Thai restaurant at Amara Hotel in Tanjong Pagar. Best known for their duck curry with pineapple and longan. $30.

- Trapizza, Siloso Beach (north end), +6563762662. Daily 10AM-11PM. Offers the improbable combination of pizzas, pastas and a trapeze school. $20.

- Sakae Sushi, Siloso Beach (south end). Beachside conveyor belt sushi (yes, with aircon), hardly gourmet fare but quite tasty anyway. $20.

Splurge
toc

- Barnacles Restaurant & Bar, 101 Siloso Road (on beach in front of Rasa Sentosa Resort), +65-63712930, [17]. Daily 6:30-11PM, Sunday lunch noon-3PM. Mildly over-the-top beachside restaurant complete with rippling waves projected onto the ceiling. Competent if not cheap Mediterranean and Chinese seafood dishes and grills. Terrace and outdoor seating. Free parking and they'll even reimburse your Sentosa entrance fee. $70.

- The Cliff, 2 Bukit Manis Rd (The Sentosa Resort), +65-63711425, [18]. In sight of jungle, beach and sea, repeatedly voted the most romantic restaurant in Singapore and popular with bosses out for a naughty night with their secretaries. Book a table on the lower deck for the best views. $100.

- Il Lido, 27 Bukit Manis Road (Sentosa Golf Club), +65-68661977, [19]. Daily 1:30PM-2:30PM, 6:30PM-11PM. Modern, stylish Italian restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating, featuring views of the Straits. Bar-lounge with live DJ attached. Some dishes are excellent (try the spaghetti with sea urchin or the seabass with porcini), but for the very high price the quality is rather uneven. $200.

- Jewel Box, Mt. Faber, [20]. On a hill opposite Sentosa, accessible via the cable car, the Jewel Box is an assemblage of three fancy, pricy and generally unspectacular restaurants (Empress Jade, Sapphire and Black Opal), but the rooftop Moonstone bar is a good place to just go for a drink and watch the lights twinkle.

- kunio tokuoka, Crockfords Tower Level 2 (Resorts World Sentosa), 66863633, [21]. The very first overseas venture by 4-star Michelin chef Kunio Tokuoka, who is a leading culinary maestro in Kyoto, Japan and grandson to the founder of the famous Kitcho. Located at level 2 of Crockfords Tower with easy accessibility from FestiveWalk, kunio tokuoka offers Japanese haute cuisine that extends far beyond the flavour of the food and its presentation on the plate.

Drink
toc

The beaches can offer some pretty wild parties on Friday and Saturday nights, especially if one of the on-again, off-again foam parties pops up. The New Year's Eve party in particular is legendary, as is ZoukOut [22], a massive yearly outdoor party organized by Zouk, featuring a roster of international and local DJs. Beaches, beer, bikinis and booming bass, what more do you need?

- Bora Bora Beach Bar, Palawan Beach (yellow/red bus), +65-9005-4238, [23]. Open daily 10:30AM-7PM or later. Laid-back beach bar playing jazzy tunes. Free entry, beer $8, cocktails $12.50-.

- Cafe del Mar, Siloso Beach (Beach Tram), +65 62351296. A franchise of the famous Ibiza club, offering a pool by the beach and chill-out music. The restaurant is pleasant but slightly overpriced and the outdoor seating is very nicely set up, although the volume is often cranked up way too high. Reserve in advance if you want one of the little pavilions. Free entry, beer $8, cocktails $12-.

There are a few nightspots of note on the mainland side of Sentosa Bridge.

- Privé, 2 Keppel Bay Vista (drive down Keppel Bay Dr, just before The Caribbean condo), +65-67760777. Daily noon-1AM. Built on a private island connected to the mainland by a bridge, arriving here is half the fun. There's an expensive steak restaurant indoors and an equally expensive Japanese eatery upstairs, but the crowd-puller is the slick, breezy outdoor bar with DJ playing chillout tunes. Free entry, drinks $12-.

- St. James Power Station, 3 Sentosa Gateway (opp Vivocity), +65-62707676, [24]. Former power station now hosting no less than 9 clubs and bars with different themes, including Powerhouse for dance pop, Dragonfly for Mandarin/Cantonese live music, Movida for Latin rhythms and Bellini Room for jazz. Popular with Singaporeans and somewhat more downmarket than the options at Clarke Quay. Opening hours and prices vary per club, but most are open Wednesday to Sunday and charge $10-20 for entry (including one drink).

Sleep
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Sentosa is not a particularly convenient base for sightseeing elsewhere in Singapore, and most of the accommodation targets visitors looking for a simple beach holiday. However, there's a race on to complete new hotels before the casino opens, and the new monorail has improved access to the mainland, so some excellent deals can be found if you scout around.

Budget
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Camping on Sentosa is not allowed, and the only campground on the island has closed. Camping is possible on St. John's Island, the Sisters Islands and Pulau Hantu, but free camping permits from the Sentosa Development Corporation (tel. +65-62750388) are required.

Mid-range
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- Costa Sands Resort Sentosa, 30 Imbiah Walk (red/blue bus), +65-6275-1034, [25]. Offers simple "kampung" huts (max 3 people) for $50/36 peak/off-peak and new air-con chalets (max 2 people) for $125/98; there are additional discounts for trade union NTUC members. In addition to the nearby beach, guests can use a swimming pool.

- Treasure Resort, (Imbiah Station), +65-6271-2002, [26]. Formerly Sijori Resort, the prewar colonial building may interest architecture buffs, but beach lovers will be disappointed to find that it's plonked down in the middle of the island far from the coastline and the interior is badly in need of a renovation. At least there's a pool. $180.

Splurge
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Sentosa features a sprinkling of resort hotels catering to those who want a beach holiday within striking distance of the city.

- Amara Sanctuary, 1 Larkhill Road (near Palawan Beach), +65-68792538 (sanctuary@amarahotels.com, fax: +65-62231293), [27]. Surrounded by 3.5 hectares of tropical rainforest, this hotel features 120 rooms in a converted British army barracks as well as 10 standalone garden villas. Three pools, in-house spa, easy walk to the beach. Disabled-friendly. $500.

- Capella Singapore, 1 The Knolls, +65-63778888, [28]. Luxury resort designed by Foster+Partners, built around two colonial-era bungalows. Main building and private villas, spa and restaurant. $500.

- Rasa Sentosa Resort, 101 Siloso Road (all buses), +65-6275-0100, [29]. Run by Shangri-La Hotels, with 459 rooms this is by far the largest hotel in Sentosa, offering a rather generic package holiday experience. The main selling point is that this is the only full-fledged beachside resort in Singapore. $235.

- The Sentosa Resort & Spa, 2 Bukit Manis Road (yellow bus), +65-6275-0331, [30]. Formerly Beaufort Sentosa, this hilltop resort-style hotel on the quieter eastern side of the island is well known for its Spa Botanica and fancy restaurants. Recently renovated and looking better than ever, with a deep Olympic-sized pool. 300 meters to Tanjong Beach. $420.

- Siloso Beach Resort, 51 Imbiah Walk (Beach Tram), +65-67223333, [31]. Opened in 2006, this resort looks like a minimalistic city hotel, all black paint and green glass, accidentally built on a tropical island. Despite the name, the resort is not on the beach, but across the road from it. $260.

Four new hotels have opened at the Resorts World Sentosa integrated resort, but while good deals are on offer, expect to deal with construction noise until at least mid-2010. All share the same reservation number, +65-65778899, and can also be booked online at Resorts World Sentosa [32].

- Crockfords Tower, Resorts World Sentosa (RWS bus, Waterfront Station). All-suite hotel exclusively for casino high rollers. Even if you aren't staying here, take a peek at the lobby and its several million dollars' worth of Chihuly glass. Invitation only.

- Singapore Hard Rock Hotel, Resorts World Sentosa (RWS bus, Waterfront Station), 65778899. Corporate rock for wannabe rockstars. The lagoon-style pool with real sand is nice though, and the Rang Mahal Pavilion is among the better options. From $225.

- Hotel Michael, Resorts World Sentosa (RWS buses, Waterfront Station), 65778899. Designed by and named after architect Michael Graves, but mostly in shades of lime. From $250.

- Festive Hotel, Resorts World Sentosa (RWS buses, Waterfront Station), 65778899. Family-oriented hotel where most rooms feature a special loft bed for the kids. More upmarket than you'd think. From $200.