SEKAI Explorer Guide Sofia (2011)

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Table of Content:

• Understand

History

• Get in

By plane

Airlines and terminals

Facilities

Transfer between terminals

Between the airport and the city

By bus

By train

By car

• Get around

By public transport

On foot

By mini-bus

By taxi

Rent-a-Car

• See

Popular attractions

Museums

Galleries

Churches

Other places of worship

Historical buildings

Open spaces

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Fast food

Budget

Mid to High End

• Drink

Cafés

Bars

Nightlife

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Stay safe

• Contact

• Get out

Understand

History

Sofia was founded around 2,500 years ago. Over the centuries, it has been given several names and the remnants of the old cities can still be viewed today.

Near Sofia lies Boyana church, which is one of the most valuable memorials of Bulgarian and European culture. The church has frescoes, acclaimed by specialists as “the best examples of eastern medieval art during its twelve century history”.

The decline of Sofia during the Turkish Ottoman Empire was followed by the rejuvenation after the Russian liberation in 1878, when Sofia was chosen as the capital of Bulgaria at the First National Constituent Assembly, and followed by a brisk and straight-forward period of construction.

Get in

By plane

Sofia Airport [1] (IATA: SOF) (ICAO: LBSF) is the busiest airport in Bulgaria and it was built around 1930. It is located only 10km from the city center, in the eastern parts of Sofia.

Over 25 airlines fly in and out of Sofia Airport with daily flights linking Sofia with Athens, Paris, Vienna, London, Rome, Amsterdam, Munich and other European cities.

Some of the traditional airlines with flights to/from Sofia are Air France, Alitalia, Austrian Airlines, British Airways, Czech Airlines, LOT, Lufthansa, Malev, Olympic Airways, Tarom and Turkish Airlines.

Also, low-cost carriers traveling to Bulgaria are EasyJet [2] (to/from London-Gatwick, Madrid, Manchester), Germanwings [3] (to/from Cologne-Bonn), Wizz Air [4] (to/from Paris-Beauvais, Barcelona, Brussels-Charleroi, Dortmund, Eindhoven, London-Luton, Milan-Bergamo, Rome-Fiumicino, Valencia).

Bulgaria Air, [5], the national carrier flies to Alicante, Amsterdam, Athens, Barcelona, Beirut, Berlin - Tegel, Brussels, Bucharest - Otopeni, Frankfurt, Istanbul - Atatürk, Kiev - Boryspil, Larnaca, London - Gatwick, London - Heathrow, Madrid, Málaga, Manchester, Moscow - Sheremetyevo, Palma de Mallorca, Paphos, Paris - Charles de Gaulle, Rome - Fiumicino, Skopje, Tel Aviv, Tirana, Tripoli, Valencia, Vienna, Zürich. Bulgaria Air`s operates domestic flights to Burgas and Varna.

There are a few domestic flights, from Sofia to Varna and Burgas, including some charter flights.

Airlines and terminals

Make sure you check the terminal that you are arriving at or departing from carefully.

Terminal 1 (T1) is used by budget airlines like EasyJet, Germanwings and Wizz Air; and by charter flight operators.

Terminal 2 (T2) handles all 'traditional' carriers, and serves as a hub to Bulgaria Air, the national carrier.

Facilities

Terminal 1 (T1) has postal and banking services, a news stand, two coffee shops and one duty-free shop.

Terminal 2 (T2) is larger and has more duty-free shops, three coffee shops with some food offers. Before passport control there is only one coffee shop and a news stand.

Sofia Airport Terminal 2 have not longer any Bank or Moneyexchange Office in the public Area! During last Days, all Banks have closed their Branches in Terminal 2. There is only one small and very expensive Money Exchange Office in the Arrival Area, after Passport Control and before Baggage Claim, but with horrible Rates!!!

Transfer between terminals

There is a white shuttle bus running every 30 minutes between the two terminals, you should ask at the information about it. There are a few kilometers between the two terminals and they are not in a walking distance. Be aware that even if you decide to walk, you may get lost as the path is not marked and it could take you 20-30 minutes.

Between the airport and the city

- By bus: Public bus line 84 travels to both terminals - the route is T2 -> T1 - Sofia. You can get tickets from the news stands in both terminals, do not rely on buying tickets from the driver! Please make sure to purchase and punch your ticket after you board. You will need an additional ticket for any large piece of luggage/baggage (larger than 40/40/60 cm). If you forget to buy additional ticket for your large luggage/baggage, the fine is 10lev or €5.

- By shuttle: Various companies run shuttle services to the hotel and back. These can be found at the airport arrival halls.

- By taxi: Taxis in the airport are "regulated" and there are only companies, that are allowed to service the airport :"OK Taxi and "91280". The fare to the city center should be about 10-12 leva. Unfortunately there are many touts that will try to ask you if you need a taxi as you exit the departures area. These guys will seriously overcharge you. When you exit the customs/declarations door, turn to your right. You will see an office for OK Taxis in front of you. They speak English so the best thing is to give the person your destination. They will check it and then print out a slip with your taxi number on it. This saves having to explain to the taxi driver! The taxis are out the doors to your right. Go through these and a taxi controller will point you to your taxi. To reassure you, you'll see a big queue of "OK" taxis lined up with "O.K. (973 2121)" written on them in blue writing with the two dots in red. However, if you go straight out to the roadway rather than right, there are unregulated taxis. You should be careful, because there are taxis, which imitate the logo of the O.K. and the phone number. Before hiring a taxi look at the right-front-door window - there should be a tariff. The normal tariffs are: initial fee (about 0.60 lv), daily price per km (about 0.60 lv), night price per km (about 0.70 lv), price per minute of stay (about 0.20 lv), price for ordering a taxi via phone (about 0.50 lv). Please, check these figures and if you see ANY figure greater than 1.00 lv, do not take this taxi!

By bus

The Central Bus Station (Centralna Avtogara/Централна автогара) [6] is located near the city center. The website gives a listing of all domestic and international departure & arrival times and costs. Bear in mind that there are three other bus stations for minor destinations.

- Many Bulgarian and International bus operators maintain scheduled lines covering all major domestic and European cities, like many cities in Greece and Macedonia, Istanbul, Vienna, and several times a week to different cities in Western Europe all the way to Portugal.

Timetable of International bus by major bus company MATPU 96: [7] in Bulgarian.

By train

International trains provide a large number of routes to Sofia, arriving from such places as Kiev, Istanbul, Vienna, Athens, Belgrade, Bucharest, Thessaloniki, Moscow and other common cities.

The primary trains from Bucharest to Sofia, and back, run twice daily through the border cities of Giurgiu and Ruse. For example, recent trains are scheduled from Bucharest to Sofia in the daytime departing 12:16/arriving 21:33 and a night train departing 20:04/arriving 06:00. From Sofia to Bucharest there are also two trains: a) Sofia 07:45 - Bucharest 17:19 and b) Sofia 19:30 - Bucharest 05:44. One way ticket is around €25up. Passport control and customs takes place in Giurgiu (RO) and Ruse (BG), approximately mid-trip. Check local train stations for more up to date information.

To Istanbul, the train costs 70 leva (a bus-tıcket is just 40 leva), the train departs at around 18:30 (there are 5 buses a day) and arrives at 9:00.

All services are operated by the Bulgarian State Railways [8], whose schedules are available on the internet in English.

The main railway station (Tsentralna Gara) can be somewhat confusing. Domestic departures go from the main terminal and that is where you can buy tickets for domestic travel. If you want to travel to an international destination, on entering the station from the front, turn to your left, walk past the heated waiting room on your left (and some small shops) and go to the office at the end of the wide corridor with "RILA" on it. It is straight ahead of you. They speak some English and to book a ticket, you will need your passport. They take credit cards.

If travelling to Thessalonika in Greece, travel in 2nd Class. It is excellent and you save some money. You get a 6 seater cabin with reclining seats and a great window. The train has a good chance of being uncrowded so you could end up with a cabin on your own. It will wind it's way through hills and valleys and is an excellent way to see the country. You can buy a ticket in advance which might save stress on the day. Top tips! Take loo paper on the train with you as well as plenty of food and water as there is no buffet car.

Platforms can be accessed from the main floor down the escalators at the far left corner. Platform numbering is somewhat confusing: Roman numerals indicate the platform number (I to VI), and Arabic numerals (1 to 12) indicate the actual track. Each platform is divided into East and West. Departures and arrivals are indicated on reliable electronic panels, but, beware, they indicate the track number, not the platform! In any case, leaving by train is mostly recommended if you want to travel overnight to destinations on the Black Sea, since trains for Varna and Burgas will leave late in the evening and get you there in the early morning (a couchette to Varna is 16 leva).

By car

All highways in Bulgaria are often under construction.

Access to Bulgaria's Capital is via several entry points:

1. From the North & South via E79/A6

2. From the East - via Thrace Highway E80/A1-A3 or from the old road paralelling the E80 Highway - Zlatitza - Pirdop - Pazardzhik route.

3. From the West - via A1/E80 Liking the city and the Bulgarian-Serbian Border point of Kalotina.

- A1 is planned to be from Sofia to Burgas, but ends at the outskirts of Stara Zagora.

- A2 is planned to be from Sofia to Varna, but ends around Pravets and continues from Shumen to Varna.

- A3 is planned to be from Varna to Burgas, but currently has only a few kilometers built.

Otherwise coming from Greece the road E79/A6 is in very good shape, so the 300 km from Thessaloniki are done fairly fast if you don't happen to fall into Friday/Sunday traffic jams in the area of Sofia or Pernik.

Coming from the Republic of Macedonia, via Kiustendil the roads are relatively good but driving within speed limits would avoid you much hassle caused either by traffic police, or road conditions. From Central Europe you can drive almost the whole length on highways (via Slovenia-Croatia-Serbia or Hungary-Serbia), with only the last 100 km between Nis in Southern Serbia and Sofia being heavily trafficked mountain roads around the Nishava ravine in not the best shape.

Get around

By public transport

Sofia has a well-developed and efficient public transport system ([9]) that consists of buses, trolleys, trams, subway line. The public transport operates from 5AM to about 12AM. Taxis are the only transport option in the night.

The price of a single ticket is 1.00 lev (~ 0.50€) only paid in the local currency. There are also 10 (8.00lv) tickets for one passenger, combined ticket for subway and ground transport (1.40 lv), daily cards (4lv), valid for all lines, and 5-day cards (15lv). Tickets, daily and 5-day cards can be bought at most newspaper stands especially ones adjacent to public transport stops. If you can't find any, you can also buy tickets from the driver if he has any available, though this is not guaranteed. Punch a ticket immediately after you enter the vehicle. The inspectors rarely understand English and you might have problems with the security if you travel without a ticket or even with an unpunched one. Inspectors ambush and board buses and trams in groups (and their attitude is generally not friendly at all), sometimes accompanied by police, and make no exceptions. The fine is 10 lv or €5.

There are 15 tram lines, 9 trolley lines, 93 bus lines and one metro line. Some of the buses cover the area outside the city center including neighboring villages. Useful routes are bus #84 from both terminals of the airport to the center; from the train/bus station to Orlov most - bus #213 or #214 or tram #1, #7 and #18 to Vitosha Street and Nedelya Square, #1, #6, #7 to the National Palace of Culture, #18 to Slaveykov square or #6 to Macedonia square.

The subway in Sofia is still under construction and a few more lines will be available in the next years. Currently there is one line that crosses from the western edge of town (Lulin, Obelya) through the city center to the southeast (Mladost r.d.), where it will eventually connect to the airport. From the last station in Mladost you can currently take bus N. 384 to the airport. (However, this is an experimental line and you should allow at least 30 minutes for waiting and travel time to the airport.)

On foot

Streets have adequate tiled pavements, especially in the city centre. However, they are frequently uneven and potholed, and walking is further made difficult by parked cars, street vendors and cafes. Except for areas in the very centre, pavements rarely have slopes for wheelchair access or designated lanes for bicycle riders. Pedestrian crossings are numerous and are relatively respected by drivers. Use pedestrian underpasses to cross large intersections, though avoid ones in the suburbs as these are usually derelict.

By mini-bus

Mini-buses (marshrutki) stop if you just wave a hand and usually are fast way to go somewhere without need to change the car. You pay to the driver when you get on the car. Prices are 1,50 leva (about 0,75 euro). You need to tell the driver if and when you want to get off.

By taxi

Taxis in Sofia are yellow. Taxis can be caught on the streets or can be ordered by phone, they arrive fast and are reliable. A drive inside Sofia will rarely exceed 10lv. There are many companies offering taxi services, some of them are OK Supertrans taxi (973 2121), €1 Taxi, "962-22-26", Yellow Taxi (91119) and Radio CV Taxi (91263) with fares around 0,70 leva (0,35€) per kilometer. Please check the phone number and the prices before you board, because there are some taxis trying to imitate the most popular ones, but having outrageous prices (up to 5,90 leva (3,00€) per kilometer) on them and usually hang around hotels and tourist spots picking on unsuspecting customers, its the top line for the per km fares and bottom line for time you need to look at. The general rule is that if a taxi driver comes to you and offers you a drive, never accept it because they will try to rip you off.

Rent-a-Car

Renting a car is possible, but not necessarily a good idea if you are not used to driving here. Be prepared for traffic jams and disorganized traffic. Parking is a major problem. To park you can use tickets for parking in the so-called Blue Zone (sinya zona/синя зона). These tickets can be purchased from the people wearing bright green jackets, hanging around the parking lots. The tickets should be clearly marked with pen and placed on the dashboard so they are clearly visible. The price is 1 lev for 1 hour. The easier and more convenient way however is to SMS the vehicle registration number to "1302" - same for all mobile operators. It will charge your bill with 1 lev. Five minutes before the prepaid time is up you will receive a warning sms. You can either send another message for another hour or move your car.

Pay attention to this traffic rule: "If a tram, bus or trolley stops and is on your left side of your car you must stop in your lane and behind it, ie. public transportation vehicle should be on your left side and in front of your car." It is because tram rails are in the middle of the road and tram station is on the pavement so passengers of a tram will disembark to the road. Even buses have bus stops in the middle of a road. Failing to stop in such manner may cause you to kill bunch of people who are disembarking from a public transportation vehicle and ensure to you a prolonged stay in Bulgaria, or to be precise Bulgarian prison.

See

Sofia is one of the oldest cities in Europe with ruins spread across the city center. It was founded because of the quality of its mineral waters. In the city alone there are 7 independent mineral water springs. One of the springs is in the central area of the city and is accessible for everybody - cross the square behind the mosque, next to TSUM (the intersection of Iskar and Ekzarh Yosif streets).

In the administrative center of Sofia the streets are covered with a specific yellow pavement. It was laid in the beginning of the 20th century and were a present to the Bulgarian Tsar Ferdinand for his wedding from the Austria-Hungarian royal family.

Popular attractions

- National Assembly of Bulgaria, 2 Narodno Sabranie Sq., +359 2 939 39 (infocenter@parliament.bg, fax: +359 2 981 31 31), [10].

- Sofia University, 15 Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd., +359 2 9308 (fax: +359 2 946 02 55), [11].

- Bulgarian Academy of Sciences, 1 15 November Str., +359 2 979 53 33 (fax: +359 2 981 72 62), [12].

- Ivan Vazov National Theatre, 5 Dyakon Ignatii Str., +359 2 811 92 19 (info@nationaltheatre.bg, fax: +359 2 987 70 66), [13].

- SS. Cyril and Methodius National Library, 88 Vasil Levski Str., + 359 2 988 28 11 (fax: + 359 2 843 54 95), [14]. 08:30 to 20:30.

- National Palace of Culture, 1 Bulgaria Sq., +359 2 916 63 00 (fax: +359 2 865 70 53), [15]. The biggest congress center in the Balkans (a massive monolithic communist-style building). If asking for directions, ask for NDK (en-de-ka), as most Bulgarians refer to it by this acronym.

- Central Military Club. It`s a multi-purpose monument of culture building in the city center.

Museums

- National Museum of Military History, 92 Cherkovna Str., +359 2 946 18 05 (m.museum@bol.bg, fax: + 359 2 946 18 06), [16]. 10.00 to 18.00.

- Ethnographic Institute with Museum, 6A Moskovska Str., +359 2 988 41 91 (eim_bas@mail.bg, fax: +359 2 980 11 62), [17]. Has a permanent collection of traditional Bulgarian costumes as well as a changing exhibition.

- Earth and Man National Museum, 4 Cherni Vruh Blvd., +359 2 865 66 39 (earth.and.man@gmail.com, fax: +359 2 866 14 57), [18]. 10.00 to 18.00. 2 leva.

- National Museum of History, 16 Vitoshko lale str. (Take trolley #2 southwest from the corner of Praga Blvd. and Patriarch Eftimi Blvd. Get off at the roundabout at the end of the bus line. Cross the busy Okolovrustino Shosse (ring road) and walk through the trees. The museum is not visible from the road, nor are there any signs.), +359 2 955 42 80; (nim1973@abv.bg, fax: +359 2 955 76 02), [19]. The National Museum of History in Sofia contains more than 650,000 exhibits and is one of the largest history museums on the Balkans. The aim of the museum is to provide a comprehensive view on Bulgarian history from the prehistory to present, in as broad an European context as possible. Be prepared to spend several hours as the museum is quite large. About half of the exhibits have English captions. 4 leva.

- National Institute of Archaeology and Museum, 2 Saborna Str., +359 2 988 24 06 (aim-bas@aclubcable.com, fax: +359 2 988 24 05), [20]. 10:00 to 18:00.

- National Polytechnic Museum, 66 Opalchenska Str., +359 2 831 30 04 (polytechnic@abv.bg, fax: +359 2 931 40 46), [21]. 09.00 to 17.00.

- National Museum of Natural History, 1, Tzar Osvoboditel Blvd., + 359 2 987 41 95 (fax: + 359 2 988 28 94), [22]. 10.00 to 18.00. Has four floors of everything from rocks and minerals to insects and stuffed bison. It is a nice way to spend a rainy afternoon.

- House-Museum of Ivan Vazov, (On the corner of the streets G. Rakovski and Ivan Vazov.).

- Museum of Sport, 1A Bulgaria Blvd. (National Stadium Vasil Levski), +359 2 930 07 61. 09:00 to 17:00.

- Museum of Paleontology and historical geology, 15 Tzar Osvoboditel Blvd. (Inside Sofia University.), +359 2 930 82 00.

- National Literature Museum, 138 G. S. Rakovski Str., floor 2, +359 2 988 24 93.

- National Agricultural Museum, 30 Suhodolska Str., +359 2 929 67 53.

- National Ecclesiastical History-Archeological Museum, 19 Sveta Nedelya Sq., +359 2 988 13 43. 09:00 to 17:00.

Galleries

- National Gallery for Foreign Art, 1 St. Aleksander Nevsky Square, +359 2 988 49 22 (ngfa@abv.bg), [23]. 11:00 to 18:00. 4 leva.

- National Art Gallery, 1 Batenberg Sq., +359 2 980 00 93. 10:30 to 18:00. Has old Bulgarian art, icons, etc. 4 leva.

- Sofia Art Gallery, 1, Gen. Gurko Str. (The entrance is from Kniaz Al. Batenberg Str.), +359 2 987 21 81, [24]. 10:00 to 19:00. free.

- Sofia City Art Gallery (Софийска градска художествена галерия), 1 General Gurko St. (ул. Ген. Гурко 1), tel: +359 2 987 2181, [25].

Churches

- St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. One of the largest orthodox churches worldwide.

- Boyana Church, 1-3 Boyansko Ezero Str. (Getting here is quite difficult. Take tram #9 or #10 from the stop underneath NDK (National Palace of Culture) to Hladilnika neighborhood (the last stop). Then catch bus #64. The bus stop is just 50 meters away but you better ask someone for directions because there are several different stops in the vicinity. The stop for the church is a small plaza with a few shops near the end of the #64 bus line. Ask the driver or the other passangers where to get off and then walk uphill and turn left.), +359 2 959 09 39 (nmbc@nmbc.orbitel.bg, fax: +359 2 959 29 66), [26]. 09:00 to 17:00. This small 14th-century church and garden is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The church contains some very well preserved murals. It is located at the foot of Vitosha mountain and is a good starting point for day trips in the mountain. Entrance is 10 Lev, or 2 Lev for students.

- Church of St. George, (It`s situated behind the Sheraton Hotel.).

- Hagia Sophia Church, 2 Paris str.. It is located just across the square and to the right from the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It was built in the 6th century over an even older church. It is a witness of the whole Bulgarian history and is a valued cultural monument. In the 14th century it gave its name to the city of Sofia. It was destroyed several times and during the Ottoman rule it was used as a mosque.

- Catholic cathedral St. Joseph, 125, Knjaz Boris I (next 2 Sheraton Hotel), 02/9815548, [27]. Holy Masses: SAT 5,30pm & SUN 10,30am bulgarian; 12,00pm latin; 6pm bulgarian

- St. Nicholas Orthodox Church

Other places of worship

- Banya Bashi Mosque.

- Sofia Synagogue. 09:00 to 16:30. One of the largest in Europe.

Historical buildings

- Amphitheatre of Serdica, (Located in the geographical center of the city under the flags of the EU.).

- Battenberg Mausoleum. The mausoleum and final resting place of Prince Alexander I of Bulgaria (1857–1893), the first Head of State of modern Bulgaria.

- Monument to Vasil Levski. It commemorates the hanging of Bulgarian national hero and major revolutionary figure Vasil Levski in the city on 18 February 1873.

- Monument to the Tsar Liberator. Representing the power of freedom and across from it are the National Assembly and the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences.

- Monument to the Unknown Soldier. Across from Alexander Nevsky cathedral; on the side of Hagia Sofia's Church.

- Knyaz Battenberg's Palace, (Right in front of the city garden.).

- Sofia Public Mineral Baths. It is an old building of interest, although it is in process of renovation at the moment.

Open spaces

- Borisova gradina. It`s the "lungs" of the city, with the Ariana Lake

- City Garden. It`s the oldest and most central public garden, in existence since 1872.

- Largo.

- Orlov Most. It`s a bridge over the Perlovska River in the centre of Sofia

- Prince Alexander of Battenberg Square.

- Slaveykov Square. It`s an open-air book market.

- Patriarch Evtimiy Square.

- Sofia Zoo, 1 Sreburna Str., [28]. 09:00 to 17:00.

- South Park. Yes, and it's not the cartoon series. A nice park in the south-east part of the city, although a bit to crowded on weekends.

Do

- Cafes and restaurants. Sofia is full of trendy cafes with outdoor seating in the summer and good-quality restaurants.

- National Opera and Ballet, [29].

- Arena Cinema, [30]. It`s one of the biggest Bulgarian cinema multiplex. Cinemas in Sofia play all films except children's films in their original language with Bulgarian subtitles.

- Free Sofia Tour (The free English-language sightseeing walking tour of Bulgaria’s capital), Corner of Alabin Str. and 2 Vitosha Blvd. Sofia Bulgaria, +359886993977, [31]. The free English-language sightseeing walking tour of Bulgaria’s capital. Every day, twice a day - both at 11AM & 6PM. No reservation required - just show up! Starting point - the corner of the Palace of Justice (Sudebna Palata) on the opposite corner from McDonald's. Ending point - National Parliament (Narodno Subranie). Organized by volunteers from "Free Sofia Tour" non-profit organization. During the approximately 2 hours of the tour, visitors get to see the main cultural and historic attractions of the city. Beside the main information about all the "must-see" places, tourists would learn different little-known stories about each site such as why the bell of the Hagya Sofia church is hanging on a nearby tree. Moreover, they get acquainted with the history of Bulgaria in general and with various traditions and customs such as martenitsa, horo, etc.

- Sofia Green Tour - Every day (The best way to see Sofia by short walking, biking and trekking green tours), 2A, Petko R. Slaveykov Square, Slaveykov's monument, +359 885 523630, [32]. “English-language experienced guides show beautiful green places and landmarks of Sofia using green way like walking, biking and trekking. Sofia Green Tour combines attractive green tourism, movement and friendship.” BOOKING: http://sofiagreentour.com (1)Sofia Bike Tour - The landmarks and green parks. Twice a day: 11: 00 (11 AM) and 18 : 00 (6 PM) - Duration: around 2 hours. (2)Boyana Trekking Tour- Boyana Church & Boyana waterfall. Meeting time 14 : 00 (2 PM) - Duration: around 5 hours. (3)Sofia by Night Tour - Night City Walking, Pubs, Bars & Clubs. Meeting time 22 : 00 (10 PM) - Duration: around 3 hours. Start Pont: SLAVEYKOV SQUARE - 2A, Petko R. Slaveykov Square, Slaveykov's monument

Buy

The currency in Bulgaria is the Lev, plural Leva. You will also see the abbreviation lv. (лв.) or the ISO code - BGN. The currency exchange rate is fixed at 1 EUR = 1.95586 BGN. Exchange rate to USD is not fixed directly, but published by the Bulgarian National Bank [33] and is used for a benchmark in the exchange offices and banks.

Currency exchange offices and most banks offer a buy rate of 1.95 BGN and a sell rate of 1.96 BGN to 1 EUR. However, at the airport and train station the rates may differ substantially. During business days, it is strongly advisable to use banks for exchanging money. ATMs on all major credit car issuers (Visa, Mastercard, Amex, Diner's, etc.) are widely available, although you have to watch for your daily withdrawal limit imposed by your card-issuing bank. Credit cards are widely accepted, only not in small souvenir stores or restaurants; you will definitely need to carry some cash.

Souvenirs can be bought many small shops in the subways in front of the old Party House and in the metro station at the Largo. The Ethnographic Museum has a small shop tightly crammed with souvenirs of all kinds from all over Bulgaria (on the right, just as you enter the main entrance). Antiques and souvenirs can also be found in Alexander Nevski square, in stalls just opposite the church.

- Vitosha Boulevard. It`s the main commercial street in the centre of Sofia. It is known as the most expensive street in Sofia.

- The Mall, 115 Tzarigradsko Shousse Blvd. (Many bus lines stop at THE MALL. Choose between bus no. 1, 3, 5, 6, 76, 84, 114, 204, 213, 214, 284, 305, 306, 313 and 604.), [34]. 10:00 to 22:00. a convenience store, Largest shopping mall in Bulgaria; contains also a Carrefour store, large Arena cinema, a lot of cafes and restaurants, etc.

- Central Sofia Market Hall, Marie Louise Boulevard (Opposite the Banya Bashi mosque.). Has many stalls selling all kinds of food, drink and cosmetics. The second floor has various fast-food cafés.

- TZUM, 2, Knyaginya Maria Luiza Blvd., +359 2 926 07 00 (tzum@tzum.bg), [35]. 10:00 to 21:00.

- Mall of Sofia, 101, Alexander Stamboliiski Blvd., +359 2 929 33 77 (fax: +359 2 929 33 00), [36].

- City Center Sofia, 2 Arsenalski Blvd., floor 3, + 359 2 865 72 85 (communication@ccs-mall.com, fax: +359 2 865 71 37), [37].

- SkyCity Mall, 52 Kosta Loulchev Str. (You can get there by tram No 20, bus No 9, and Route Taxi No 1, 19 and 21.), +359 2 971 02 13 (office@skycitycenter.com, fax: +359 2 971 01 89), [38]. 10:00 to 22:00. Also has an entertainment center.

Eat

Fast food

You can easily find take away food in Sofia. For less than 2 leva you can get a slice of pizza, a hot-dog or a sandwich. You can get more traditional Bulgarian food in bakeries, offering banitsa and other kinds of pastry. This food is often consumed with ayran or boza . Another possibility is to get a katma, which is a big pancake filled with cheese, ham, jelly or chocolate.

Budget

- Art Hostel [58] provides cheap accommodation and a friendly atmosphere where tourists and locals mingle in the small basement bar. €9 (18 leva) a night, "The Guardian" says: "Probably the coolest youth-hostel in Europe"

- Canape Connection Hostel, 12 A William Gladstone Street, +359 2 441 63 73 (hostel@canapeconnection.net), [59]. checkin: 14h; checkout: 12h. A new generation hostel that offers chill-out atmosphere in a small charming house in the city center. The spacious canopy beds ensure your good night-rest, while the rich and healthy home-made breakfast gives you a great start in the mornings. 11.00-16.00 Euro.

- Internet Hostel Sofia,[60].50A Alabin Str/Vitosha Blvd Offers excellent service and rooms for every taste at top city location.

- Hostel Lavele, 14 Lavele St (behind Bulbank, which is in front of Sveta Nedelya Church), +359 2 48 32 425, +359 884 08 02 83 (lavelehostel@gmail.com), [61]. Small, cozy hostel. Not a party hostel, but good sleep hostel. Hidden in a small quite street. And good breakfast in the morning. from €10.

- Le Freak Deluxe [62] sofia.hostel@yahoo.com a cheap non-profit hostel. Twenty minute tram ride from centre and with a bus stop directly on the front gates. Running on a donation basis with 300лв (approx. €153, £122 or $244) being the minimun donation which entitles you to a stay of up to one month. Le Freak Deluxe as a seasonal alternative also provides camping facilities for 200лв per month - please see website for details.

- Orient Express Hostel - Sofa [63] 8A "Christo Belchev" Str - This charming decorated small hostel offers a variety of room options.

- Red Star Hostel [64]. In the city center between main street Vitosha Blvd. and City Garden with National Theatre, and offers cheap and clean accommodation in a variety of private rooms and dorms.

- Sofia Backpacker's Inn, [65]. A cozy hostel located 5 minutes from the central train and bus stations.

Mid to High End

- Happy's Bar and Grill, (Just across the street from the Sveta Nedelya church.), [41]. Happy's is the Bulgarian equivalent of an American diner, and the Sofia representative of a nationwide chain. There are English-language menus, and the staff (all microskirted young girls, who apparently have to be smiling when they serve you) all seem to have at least some English as well. Portions are generally huge and represent a sort of "watered down" version of their traditional Bulgarian equivalents, although more Western fare is also available.

- Pizza Victoria, [42]. One of the best Bulgarian pizzas.

- Pod Lipite, [43]. Very good traditional food. Reservation is required.

- Motto, 18 Aksakov str. (Motto is on the street right behind the Radisson hotel, and then two blocks East (turn to the right on the first small street behind the Radisson if you are walking from the big horse statue) - it's kind of hard to find as the sign is a small black sign with white lettering.), +359 2 987 27 23, [44]. This place is always fairly busy with a trendy crowd. The decor is modern and cool, and the people typically good looking. The service here is usually pretty nice, and many of the wait-staff speak English. The food is consistent and enjoyable. 5 to 15 leva per dish..

- Carrera, 4 Golo Bardo Str., +359 2 960 28 66 (nikostoyanov@abv.bg). A fairly modern restaurant over in the Lozenetz area. The decor is well done, the service good, and the food very good. Prices are in line with the quality and style of the place. The wine selection is excellent. They also have a nice summer/winter garden area.

- Maison Godet – French Wine & Dinner, 17 Al. Stamboliyski Blvd. (Just 100 m west from the Sveta Nedelya church.), +359 2 980 74 77, [45]. French gourmet cuisine with excellent French wines, own production of the house. Modern and cosy atmosphere with a nice ancient Roman wall inside the restaurant. Reservations are recommended. About 12 lev average per dish.

Drink

- Hadjidraganovite kashti (Traditional Bulgarian Cuisine), 75 Kozloduy, Sofia 1202, Bulgaria ((2 minutes walking distance from the Lion Bridge, around the corner from Ramses II Casino)), +359 (2) 931 31 48, [46]. 11.30 a.m. - 2.00 a.m.. Amazing restaurant just off one of Sofias main streets. The decor is old-style Bulgarian/Macedonian, and the food is traditional Bulagrian, plentyfull and very, very tasty. Entertainment includes a Macedonian walk-around band, and guests are primarily locals. Staff is very friendly, and most speak english. Reservations is necessary, even on weeknights. 10€-30€.

- Mehana Karajata (Mehana Karajata), Bul.Ovcha kupel and ul.Zhitnitsa crosroad, +359 2 8558804, [47]. Try Bulgarian national cuisine - in a traditional Bulgarian home atmosphere. Nicely decorated restaurant with beautiful open garden, typical folk music. 10 EUR.

Cafés

- Palachinkova Kashta (The Bulgarian pancake house), Dragalevtsi district, +359 88 66 207 66, [48].

- Starbucks, Corner of Vassil Levski Blvd & Gurko Blvd, [49].

- Onda Coffee Break, +359 2 980 49 40 (onda@onda.bg, fax: +359 2 980 19 39), [50].

- Pchela Sweet Shop, [51].

- Nedelya Sweet Shop, +359 88 560 08 30, [52].

- Costa Coffee, [53].

- Art Club since 1991, 6 Tsar Ivan Asen II Str..

Bars

- JJ Murphys Irish pub [54]

Nightlife

- Apartment, [55]. Popular among locals as well as foreigners is the "apartamenta", some sort of private club in the second floor of a turn of the 19th century mansion: There you find a series of rooms, all in different styles and wall-drawings, colourful tapestries, etc. Go to the right, get a drink in the kitchen (everything non-alcoholic is 4 lv), and just pick and choose a room which looks cozy enough (shouldn't be too hard to find one with all the couches lying around). If you love the music, there are Mac computers in most of the rooms where you can pick something else out of the playlist. Have a game of chess. There is also a Cinema room, if there is nothing running just go in, pick a movie out of the list and start the projection. There is also home- made chocolate and cream and all different kind of organic drinks like Himalayan tea, Kiwi nectar and much more...

- Lodkite. In the huge "Borisova gradina" park near the stadium(just ask you way around) you'll find this open-air place, located in an old leisure-park parcour (you know, that type of small water-channels where kid can drive around in little gondolas). The boats have gone and the channels serve as improvised sitting places (basic tables made out of wood planks put between the two sides of the channel). There are also some tables on the court and lights decorating the trees luminate the scene. The public sound system has experimental electronic music, ambiance, progressive rock, or whatever the DJs feel like. The later it gets, the more you'll find people sitting everywhere on the floor on the trees. On warm summer nights, this place is a must-be.

- (contact@clubescape.bg).

- Chervilo, [56].

- Yalta, 20, Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd., (office@yaltaclub.com), [57].

The largest discos in Sofia are concentrated in Students' town (Studentski grad). The latter is situated in the southern part of the city and can be reached by buses #94 (from Sofia university and Culture palace), #280 (From Sofia University, Orlov most) and #102. The last bus to Studentski grad departs from the city center at about 11.30 PM (from Sofia University and Culture Palace). The entrance fee for most discos is between 1 and 5 leva (0.5 - 2.5 euro). Discos that can be visited there include: Avenue, Tantra, Orient 33, Jeam Beam, Maskata, Stroezha etc.

Sleep

Budget

- Art Hostel [58] provides cheap accommodation and a friendly atmosphere where tourists and locals mingle in the small basement bar. €9 (18 leva) a night, "The Guardian" says: "Probably the coolest youth-hostel in Europe"

- Canape Connection Hostel, 12 A William Gladstone Street, +359 2 441 63 73 (hostel@canapeconnection.net), [59]. checkin: 14h; checkout: 12h. A new generation hostel that offers chill-out atmosphere in a small charming house in the city center. The spacious canopy beds ensure your good night-rest, while the rich and healthy home-made breakfast gives you a great start in the mornings. 11.00-16.00 Euro.

- Internet Hostel Sofia,[60].50A Alabin Str/Vitosha Blvd Offers excellent service and rooms for every taste at top city location.

- Hostel Lavele, 14 Lavele St (behind Bulbank, which is in front of Sveta Nedelya Church), +359 2 48 32 425, +359 884 08 02 83 (lavelehostel@gmail.com), [61]. Small, cozy hostel. Not a party hostel, but good sleep hostel. Hidden in a small quite street. And good breakfast in the morning. from €10.

- Le Freak Deluxe [62] sofia.hostel@yahoo.com a cheap non-profit hostel. Twenty minute tram ride from centre and with a bus stop directly on the front gates. Running on a donation basis with 300лв (approx. €153, £122 or $244) being the minimun donation which entitles you to a stay of up to one month. Le Freak Deluxe as a seasonal alternative also provides camping facilities for 200лв per month - please see website for details.

- Orient Express Hostel - Sofa [63] 8A "Christo Belchev" Str - This charming decorated small hostel offers a variety of room options.

- Red Star Hostel [64]. In the city center between main street Vitosha Blvd. and City Garden with National Theatre, and offers cheap and clean accommodation in a variety of private rooms and dorms.

- Sofia Backpacker's Inn, [65]. A cozy hostel located 5 minutes from the central train and bus stations.

Mid-range

- Holiday Inn Sofia, 111 Alexandar Malinov Blvd, +359 2 8070707, [66]. Modern five star hotel offering conference facilities and spa centre. Rooms from € 68.

- Holiday Village Diplomat [67] is near Vitosha mountain and 20 min away from the city centre. Spacious rooms, large park area and friendly staff.

- Maxim Hotel hotel_maxim@abv.bg This was a very nice hotel just 5 min walking from the train/bus station and 5 min away in the opposite direction from downtown Sofia. It is a cute hotel with a nice bedroom and also a living/TV room, large private bathroom and includes breakfast buffet in the morning. Only negative is they do not have an elevator. Cost in slow season was €60 for 2 people, €50 for one person.

- Metropolitan Hotel Sofia, 64, Tsarigradsko shose Blvd., +359 2 419 19 00 (Reservations@metropolitanhotelsofia.com, fax: +359 (0) 2 419 19 09), [68]. Business 4-star hotel located near Sofia airport, Bulgaria, ideal for business and leisure.

- Hostel Mostel [69] - has a huge lounge to chill out, you can browse the net on modern computers. All en-suite dorm rooms, Trips to Rila Monastery are run daily.

- Nightingale Hostel, 2A Petko R Slaveykov Square (behind open-air book market by the corner of Solunska St and Graf Ignatiev St), +359.888214888, +359.888455224, skype:nightingalehostel (silvy_gs@abv.bg), [70]. checkin: 13:00; checkout: 11:30. A hostel with dorm beds and private rooms in the center of Sofia. Breakfast served. Kitchen and laundry are available for use for a fee. Internet computers and WiFi are free. Central heating. Unpleasant staff. €7-20. (42.692243,23.32382)

- Red House B&B [71] - a charming B&B located in the Red House cultural centre.

- Hotel Renaissance is situated in downtown Sofia, very close to the administrative and commercial center of the city. Double rooms start at €79.

- Scotty's Boutique Hotel is centrally located near the Zhenski Pazar and moderately priced, and looks to be very nice.

- Sofia Guesthouse, [72]. offers clean accommodation at the exact city center for EUR9 inc. breakfast.

Splurge

- Maria Luisa Hotel occupies an exquisite building dating back to the turn of 20th century and listed as one of Bulgaria's cultural monuments of national significance. Maria Luisa Hotel offers a combination of the standards and services found in a luxury hotel plus the privacy and independence of one's own home.

- Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan (Sheraton Sofia), 5, Sveta Nedelya Sq. (Opposite the statue of Sofia and Sveta Nedelya Church), (359)(2) 9816541, [73]. checkin: 14.00; checkout: 12.00. Sheraton Sofia is in very heart of Bulgaria capital. Impressive 5-storey hotel, in classical design, houses 184 rooms, including 19 suites. All rooms are soundproof, with air condition control, direct dial phone, message alert, TV with satellite program, radio, mini bar.

Stay safe

If you have a car, you are recommended to park it in a paid guarded lot. Parking in the center is difficult; although you can find free spaces, the Bulgarian police tends to behave harshly towards foreign license plates. Even though the other cars appear to be parked legitimately, double check that there are no signs or pavement markings prohibiting it. If you drive out of the city (or enter the country by road) you must have a vignette (винетка) on every high-way. Buy it right away at the border (even though no one will tell you to and there may not be signs) or before leaving Sofia(rental car) from any fuel station. The price (2011) is 10 leva for one week - this is the shortest period available, also one-month and one-year vignettes are available. You must place it on the front window, in the bottom right corner. The fine, if you forget the vignette, is about 200 leva.

Car lights are also compulsory in the light part of the day from November 1st until March 1st; it is best just to drive with them on always.

Pedestrians should be careful since Bulgarian drivers do not yield right of way to those on foot.

Generally at night, you should avoid the area around the Bus and Train Station, Maria Luiza Blvd, the Parks (around the Palace of Culture and Borisova) and the Lions' Bridge (Lavov Most). This is especially true for single women and girls. Junkies get high there, prostitutes (both female and transsexual) offer their "services", some people might want to tempt you with touts of contraband (stolen, illegal, etc.) and/or then try to mug you. These areas are also frequented with the homeless and the drunk. If your hotel is in the area you'll be alright, just don't hang around it unnecessarily. Try to act like you are familiar with the area (and farmiliarize yourself during the day) and look like a local. As long as you avoid the poorly lit areas, the centre is okay, stick to the well-lit areas such as Vitoshka, the Largo, the Sheraton hotel, the Ivan Vazov theater and Voennia Klub (Military Club). It is wise to choose a hotel/hostel in a better location, such as the ones listed above.

Do not get into conflict with locals especially if they seem aggressive or drunk. Avoid football fan groups, they tend to be drunk and aggressive. Avoid wearing football shirts or scarves of the Sofia-based football teams, especially on match days.

On top of it all there are strong allegations of deep-rooted corruption in the Bulgarian justice system. Foreigners may find themselves in serious difficulty if they get into any legal trouble. There are many other reports of violence on foreigners in Sofia, although all of them were 'aggravated' cases such as a person trying to illegally buy documents or drugs.

Be careful with taxis, make sure you check the prices first before you get in (the fare is per kilometer and it should be something like 0.59 during the day and 0.70 during the night, avoid cabs that display their fare as above 1.00), also make sure the cab has the driver's card on the front with his name.

Also, be wary of money exchange shops. Some of them exchange money for generally lower rates than displayed on the exchange rate panel. Go to banks, otherwise you can easily become a victim and if you want your money back the security guard might intimidate you, rough you up or physically abuse you. One such change shop is on Maria Louisa as you walk towards the Lion's bridge (Лъвов мост) just after Halite (Халите) and Ekzarh Yosif street (you'll recognise it by the misspelling of currency, spelled 'currensy').

Contact

Sofia has a large number of mostly free wireless hotspots in bars, restaurants, and cafés. You may find also in hotels and public areas, like "Park Zaimov". The airport has a free public wireless hotspot for use in Terminal 2.

Get out

- Vitosha is a magnificent landmark mountain rising just south of the capital. It is easily accessible by public transportation or by car and day trips in Vitosha in a sunny day are highly recommended. In the winter it is well suited for skiing and its proximity allows one day ski-trips; in the summer it is great for hiking. A great way to spend few days in Sofia, being on its "balcony," enjoying sunny days on the mountain with a spectacular view on the capital. So going to Sofia provide gives you a unique chance to witness the rare symbiosis of the metropolitan city with its nature park.

- Rila Monastery is the most famous monastery in Bulgaria, situated in the huge Rila Massive. It`s just one hour and a half drive away from Sofia.

- Plovdiv is the second largest city in Bulgaria. It`s just one hour drive on a good highway away from Sofia. Plovdiv lies around three hills in the otherwise totally flat Thracian plain. It's historical center, Roman remnants & relaxed feeling make it a great day-trip.

- Veliko Turnovo a beautiful city along a winding river, the former capital of Bulgaria in the middle ages. The original city castle and walls are reconstructed. Be sure also to visit nearby Arbanassi.

- There are also many monasteries around Sofia.