SEKAI Explorer Guide Tokyo (2011)

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Table of Content:

• Districts

Chiyoda

Akihabara

Chuo

Ginza

Tsukiji

Minato

Akasaka

Shinbashi

Roppongi

Odaiba

Shiodome

Shinjuku

Kabukicho

Shibuya

Harajuku

Ebisu

Shinagawa

Gotanda

Toshima

Ikebukuro

Meguto

Sumida

Ryogoku

Taito

Bunkyo

Asakusa

Ueno

Koto

Arakawa

Adachi

Katsushika

Kita

Edogawa

Itabashi

Nakano

Nerima

Ota

Setagaya

Suginami

Central Tokyo

Old Tokyo (Shitamachi)

Suburban wards

• Understand

Culture

Expenses

Climate

• Get in

By plane

Narita Airport

Haneda Airport

Ibaraki Airport

Chōfu Airfield

By train

By car or thumb

By bus

By boat

• Get around

By train and subway

Fares and hours

By taxi

By car

By bus

By ferry

By bicycle

By foot

Talk

• See

Itineraries

• Do

• Learn

Work

• Buy

Anime and manga

Antiques

Books

Cameras and electronics

Fashion

Kitchenware

Music

Souvenirs

Street markets

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

• Stay safe

• Get out

Districts

Huge and varied in its geography, with over 2,000 square kilometers to explore, Tokyo prefecture (東京都 Tōkyō-to) spans not just the city, but rugged mountains to the west and subtropical islands to the south. This article concentrates on the 23 central wards (区 ku) near the bay, while the western cities and the islands are covered in a separate article.

The geography of central Tokyo is defined by the JR Yamanote Line (see Get around). The center of Tokyo — the former area reserved for the Shogun and his samurai — lies within the loop, while the Edo-era downtown (下町 shitamachi) is to the north and east. Sprawling around in all directions and blending in seamlessly are Yokohama, Kawasaki and Chiba, Tokyo's suburbs.

Central Tokyo

- Chiyoda, the seat of Japanese power (both political and economic) that includes the Imperial Palace, the Ministries near Kasumigaseki, the Parliament in Nagatacho, the corporate headquarters of Marunouchi, and the electronics mecca of Akihabara

- Chuo district, including the famed department stores of the Ginza and the fish markets of Tsukiji

- Minato, including the business centers of Akasaka and Shinbashi and the neighbouring nightclub district of Roppongi, the port district (at least in name) which includes the artificial island of Odaiba, the skyscrapers of Shiodome

- Shinjuku, home to luxury hotels, giant camera stores, futuristic skyscrapers, hundreds of shops and restaurants, and Kabukicho, Tokyo's wildest nightlife and red-light district

- Shibuya, the fashionable shopping district which also encompasses the teenybopper haven of Harajuku (also home to the Meiji Shrine) and the nightlife of Ebisu

- Shinagawa, a major train hub and business center, including Gotanda

- Toshima, including Ikebukuro, another giant train hub

- Meguro, a residential area with a few nice parks and museums

Old Tokyo (Shitamachi)

- Sumida, home of the Edo-Tokyo Museum and Tokyo's main sumo arena (Ryogoku Kokugikan), both in Ryogoku

- Taito and Bunkyo, the heart of Old Tokyo featuring the temples of Asakusa and many museums of Ueno

- Koto, famous for Kameido Tenjin and former woodland in Kiba, but now known for its many new public apartment complexes

- Arakawa, home to Tokyo's last original tram line

Suburban wards

- Adachi, where one can visit one of Kanto's Three Great Temples: Nishi-arai Daishi

- Katsushika, known for the charming Showa-era atmosphere of Shibamata

- Kita, gateway to Saitama

- Edogawa, a quiet eastern suburb

- Itabashi, a quiet northern suburb

- Nakano, home to the otaku paradise known as Nakano Broadway

- Nerima, containing some of the 23 wards' last remaining farmland

- Ota, half industrial complex, half upscale residential area

- Setagaya, an upscale residential area that houses the student drinking spot of Shimokitazawa

- Suginami, typical Tokyo suburb stretching along the Chuo Line

Understand

Over 400 years old, the city of Tokyo grew from the modest fishing village of Edo (江戸). The former seat of the Tokugawa Shogunate, the Imperial family moved to the city after the Meiji Restoration in 1868. The metropolitan center of the country, Tokyo is the destination for business, education, modern culture, and government. (That's not to say that rivals such as Osaka won't dispute those claims.)

Culture

Tokyo is vast: it's best thought of not as a single city, but a constellation of cities that have grown together. Tokyo's districts vary wildly by character, from the electronic blare of Akihabara to the Imperial gardens and shrines of Chiyoda, from the hyperactive youth culture mecca of Shibuya to the pottery shops and temple markets of Asakusa. If you don't like what you see, hop on the train and head to the next station, and you will find something entirely different.

The sheer size and frenetic pace of Tokyo can intimidate the first-time visitor. Much of the city is a jungle of concrete and wires, with a mass of neon and blaring loudspeakers. At rush hour, crowds jostle in packed trains and masses of humanity sweep through enormous and bewilderingly complex stations. Don't get too hung up on ticking tourist sights off your list: for most visitors, the biggest part of the Tokyo experience is just wandering around at random and absorbing the vibe, poking your head into shops selling weird and wonderful things, sampling restaurants where you can't recognize a single thing on the menu (or on your plate), and finding unexpected oases of calm in the tranquil grounds of a neighbourhood Shinto shrine. It's all perfectly safe, and the locals will go to sometimes extraordinary lengths to help you if you just ask.

Expenses

The cost of living in Tokyo is not as astronomical as it once was. Deflation and market pressures have helped to make costs in Tokyo comparable to most other large cities. Visitors from San Francisco, New York, London, Paris, Sydney, Toronto and Dublin will not find it any more expensive than back home. Travelers should budget a similar amount of money for their stay in Tokyo as they would for any other great city in Europe, North America or Australia. Locals will know the bargains, but experienced cheapskates from anywhere in the world can get by with a little ingenuity. Tokyo is one of the most popular places to live in Japan. It is also rated the fifth most expensive city to live in, in the world. Rent for a single's apartment could range from $US500 to $US1,000 a month. Tokyo is so overwhelmingly crowded that apartments are usually no bigger than 175 square feet (16 square meters).

Climate

Tokyo is classified as lying in the humid subtropical climate zone and has four distinct seasons. Summers are usually hot and humid with a temperature range of about 20-30 °C, though it can sometimes climb into the high thirties. Winters are usually mild, with temperatures generally ranging from 0-10 °C, though occasional cold spells can send temperatures plummeting below zero at night. Snow is rare, but on those rare occasions (once every few years) when Tokyo is hit by a snowstorm, much of the train network grinds to a halt. The famous cherry blossoms bloom in March-April and parks, most famously Ueno, fill up with blue tarps and sozzled salarymen.

Get in

Luggage delivery

Send your bags into town before you arrive—Tokyo is crowded. Lugging even a moderately sized suitcase through the subways and up stairs can be difficult, particularly during rush hour. Delivery services (takkyuubin) deliver luggage dependably and quickly to nearly any address. You can send almost any shape or size of luggage, even bicycles, from and to the airport. One exception: if you have bottles of alcohol in your luggage, you'll have to carry those yourself even if the airline allowed them in your in checked baggage.

At airports and major train stations, look for a sign that says "Baggage Delivery" or something similar. The most common company is called Kuroneko-Yamato, which has an easy-to-spot black-on-yellow logo of a mother cat carrying her kitten. Other companies include Nittsu and Sagawa. Japan Post, the national postal service, also offers luggage delivery called "Yu-Pack". Fees are based upon distance, expect to pay around ¥2000 within the greater Tokyo area. Usually, the delivery is performed the following day, in a specified time range.

This works the same way on departure. Most hotels and many convenience stores will take care of the pick-up for you, but you should check delivery times in advance, so that your luggage can arrive in time for your flight. Most services require that you send your luggage to the airport two days prior to your departure. You can pick up your luggage in the airport lobby. This makes getting to the airport a breeze. This service can also be used for intercity travel.

In Japan, all roads, rails, shipping lanes and planes lead to Tokyo.

By plane

Tokyo has two large airports: Narita for international flights, and Haneda for (mostly) domestic flights.

Narita Airport

See also: Narita

Tokyo's main international gateway is Narita Airport (成田空港) (IATA: NRT) [2], located in the town of Narita nearly 70 kilometers northeast of Tokyo and covered in a separate article. A brief summary of options for getting there and away:

- Easiest: Limousine bus direct to major hotels, ~120 minutes (subject to traffic), ¥3,000

- Fastest: Skyliner to Nippori and Ueno Stations, under 45 minutes, ¥2,400; Narita Express to Tokyo Station, Shibuya, Shinjuku, Yokohama, 55 minutes and ¥2,940 to Tokyo Station (Japan Rail Pass valid)

- Cheapest: Keisei Limited Express/Access Tokkyu trains to Nippori/Ueno, 60-80 minutes, ¥1,000-1,200 (Access Tokkyu trains also serve some subway stations); "Super Shuttle" Bus to Ueno and Asakusa, ¥1,000

- Most expensive: Taxi to the city, more than ¥30,000; flat-fare cabs approximately ¥17,000-19,000

Haneda Airport

Haneda Airport (羽田空港 IATA: HND) [3], officially known as Tokyo International Airport, in Ota is the busiest airport in all Asia despite a majority of flights being domestic.

Domestic Terminal 1 houses the JAL group including Skymark and Skynet, while Domestic Terminal 2 is home to ANA and affiliate Air Do. On October 21, 2010, Haneda opened a brand new International Terminal Building along with a new runway. International flights operate into Haneda from 18 cities, with a number of these flights landing and departing during the late evening hours. Free shuttle buses run every 6 minutes between 5 AM and Midnight, connecting the International terminal with both Domestic terminals.

The easiest and most scenic way from Haneda to the city is the Tokyo Monorail [4] running to Hamamatsucho for ¥470, from where you can connect to almost anywhere in Tokyo on the JR Yamanote line. The monorail has a station at each of Haneda's three terminals. From the International Terminal, trains reach Hamamatsucho in as little as 14 minutes on the nonstop services; the domestic terminals are about 5 minutes further down the line. JR East maintains a Travel Service Center for foreigners in the International Terminal (open daily 11:00 to 18:30) where vouchers can be exchanged for the Japan Rail Pass and JR East Rail Pass. The Tokyo Monorail is fully covered with either pass.

Starting on February 1, 2011, JR East will sell a special Suica fare package, called "Suica & Monorail" [5], exclusively to foreign visitors. The cost includes a discounted fare on the Tokyo Monorail (one-way or round-trip), ¥1500 to use on rail travel in Tokyo or on purchases at locations that accept the Suica card, and a ¥500 deposit. The "Suica & Monorail" ticket is sold only from the JR East Service Center at the international terminal, and can be purchased using cash or credit card. It can also be recharged with additional funds, but only by paying cash. The one-way ticket is ¥2400, and the round-trip ticket costs ¥2700; the return trip to Haneda must be taken within 10 days.

The other alternative is the private Keikyu (京急) line, which has two train stations at Haneda: one for the International Terminal and one serving both Domestic terminals. Keikyu trains run to Shinagawa (15 min, ¥400) and Yokohama (30-35 min via Airport Express [エアポート急行], ¥440-470). Some Keikyu trains from Haneda continue on to the Toei Asakusa Line, providing one-seat rides to Nihonbashi (30-35 min, ¥550-590) and Asakusa (40-45 min, ¥600-640).

JR Passes are not valid on Keikyu Trains. If your final destination is somewhere along the Tokaido Shinkansen (i.e. Odawara, Atami, Shizuoka, Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka) then it will be easier to take the Keikyu Line to Shinagawa to pick up the shinkansen, even if you have a Japan Rail Pass. Using the Tokyo Monorail will require you to take an additional train, the Yamanote Line, to either Tokyo station or Shinagawa.

Limousine Buses connect Haneda Airport with Narita Airport (90 minutes, ¥3,000). Most Airport Rapid Express [エアポート快特] trains on the Keikyu Line also run all the way to Narita Airport's terminals; these services are much cheaper than the bus (105 minutes, ¥1,740), but buses operate more frequently. Note that the "Airport Terminal 2" station that pops up in some route search engines refers to terminal 2 at Narita Airport, not Haneda!

Normal metered taxis to central Tokyo will cost anywhere from ¥4,000 to ¥10,000, plus a 20% surcharge between 10 PM and 5 PM. An alternative is Anzen Taxi's [6] fixed fare service for ¥6,000 (¥8,000 at night) to most of central Tokyo, including Shinjuku and Shibuya.

If you arrive on a late flight or need to catch an early flight, beware that there are no trains between midnight and 5 AM on either the monorail or the Keikyu line. Some limousine buses do operate after midnight, but such trips incur an additional "night surcharge".

Ibaraki Airport

Ibaraki Airport (茨城空港 IATA: IBR) [7] in Omitama, Ibaraki, some 85 km north of Tokyo, is an upstart aimed squarely at low-cost carriers. As of 2010, services are limited to flights from Kobe, Seoul and Shanghai, but the 1.5-hour bus ride to/from Tokyo Station is only ¥500 for flight passengers. (pre-booked)

Chōfu Airfield

Chōfu Airfield (調布飛行場 Chōfu hikōjō) serves only some turboprop flights to the Izu Islands south of Tokyo. The nearest railway station is Nishi-Chōfu on the Keiō Line, a 15-minute walk away. Alternatively, you can take a bus from Chofu or Mitaka stations.

By train

There is a frequent intercity Shinkansen service to and from Tokyo Station (東京駅 Tōkyō-eki) in Chiyoda, from where you can easily connect pretty much anywhere in the city on the JR Yamanote or Metro Marunouchi lines. For all northbound trains, you can also hop on at Ueno, while all westbound trains stop at Shinagawa.

For non-Shinkansen services, Shibuya and Shinjuku stations offer local connections to the west. Ueno and Ikebukuro stations connect you to the northern suburbs and neighboring prefectures.

By car or thumb

While you can drive into the city, it's really not recommended as the city can be congested, signs may be confusing and parking fees are astronomical.

Hitchhiking into Tokyo is pretty easy, but hitchhiking out is considerably more difficult. It's definitely possible for determined cheapskates though, see Hitchhiking in Japan for a detailed list of tested escape routes from the city.

By bus

The few areas within Tokyo that aren't easily accessible by train are served by various bus companies. Buses operating within 23 wards of Tokyo have a fixed fare regardless of distance (¥200 on Toei buses [19] and ¥210 on other private bus companies), which is paid upon boarding from the front door. The fares are not transferable; however most buses do accept Suica or PASMO fare cards (see above). If you use a "Suica" or "PASMO" card to board a Toei Bus, you will receive a ¥100 discount on your next Toei Bus ride as long as it is within 90 minutes of the previous ride. Compared to the trains, the buses run much less frequently, carry fewer passengers, and are much slower. This makes them amenable to the elderly residents of Tokyo, but rather inconvenient for travelers, who will also have to deal with lack of information in English and sometimes very well hidden bus stops. Bus routes can be fairly complicated and are often not listed in detail at the bus stops; signs on the buses themselves often list only two or three main stops in addition to the origin and destination. Inside the bus the next stop is usually announced several times, sometimes by a taped voice and sometimes by a mumbling driver. Recently taped announcements in English are used on some lines, but are still rare. Nevertheless, north-south routes are useful in the western side of the city since train lines (Odakyu, Keio, Chuo, and Seibu) tend to run east-west.

By boat

One of the great ports of the world, Tokyo also has domestic ferry services to other points in Japan. However, none of the regular international ferries to Japan call at Tokyo.

The main long-distance ferry terminal is Ariake Ferry Terminal [10], located on an artificial island adjacent to Odaiba in Tokyo Bay. The nearest station is Kokusai-Tenjijo-Seimon on the Yurikamome line, but it's still a bit of a hike. You can also take a direct bus from Shin-Kiba station on the Metro Yurakucho line. The main services from this terminal are:

- Tokyo-Tomakomai (Hokkaido): Kawasaki Kinkai Kisen, 03-3528-0718. This ferry has no passenger facilities, so it can only be used if you have a car; fares for a car and driver start at ¥25,820.

- Tokyo-Tokushima-Kitakyushu: Ocean Tokyu Ferry, 03-5148-0109. Tokyo-Kitakyushu passenger fares are ¥14,000 for second class, ¥26,600 for first class.

Ferries to the Izu and Ogasawara Islands leave from Takeshiba Terminal (竹芝客船ターミナル), adjacent to Takeshiba station on the Yurikamome line. Cruise liners tend to use the Harumi Terminal (晴海客船ターミナル), best accessible on bus 都05(To-05) from Tokyo station Marunouchi South Exit or 東12(Tou-12) from Tokyo station Yaesu exit. International ferries and cargo ferries that also take passengers can leave from other terminals too, enquire with your shipping company.

Get around

By train and subway

Tokyo has one of the most extensive mass transit systems in the world. It is clean, safe and efficient - and confusing. The confusion arises from the fact that several distinct railway systems operate within Tokyo - the JR East network, the two subway networks, and various private lines - and different route maps show different systems. Avoid rush hours if possible; trains get overcrowded very easily.

The defining rail line in Tokyo is the JR Yamanote Line (山手線), which runs in a loop around central Tokyo; being inside the Yamanote loop is synonymous with being in the core of Tokyo. Almost all inter-regional JR lines and private lines start at a station on the Yamanote. JR's lines are color-coded, and the Yamanote is green. The JR Chuo (中央線, orange) and Sobu (総武線, yellow) lines run side-by-side, bisecting the Yamanote loop from Shinjuku on the west to Tokyo on the east. JR's other commuter lines, the Saikyo and Keihin-Tohoku, run off the rim of the Yamanote loop to the north and south. JR East has a good English information line, 050-2016-1603 or 03-3423-0111.

Tokyo has an extensive subway network with frequent trains, and these are primarily useful for getting around within the Yamanote loop. The Tokyo Metro [11] runs nine lines: Ginza, Marunouchi, Hibiya, Tozai, Chiyoda, Yurakucho, Hanzomon, Namboku and Fukutoshin lines. Toei [12] operates the Asakusa, Mita, Shinjuku, and Oedo lines. While the JR Yamanote Line is not a subway line, due to its importance as a major transportation artery in downtown Tokyo, it is usually featured on subway maps. In addition, there is a largely underground Rinkai Line, a private line which is operated by Tokyo Waterfront Area Rapid Transit [13] (web-site only in Japanese) or TWR, that passes through the island of Odaiba.

Announcements and signs are usually bilingual in Japanese and English, though in some areas frequented by tourists, signs in Korean and Chinese can also be seen.

A number of private commuter lines radiate from the Yamanote loop out into the outlying wards and suburbs, and almost all connect through directly to subway lines within the loop. The private lines are useful for day trips outside the city, and are slightly cheaper than JR. Among these, the most important to visitors is arguably the Yurikamome [14] which offers great views on the way to the island of Odaiba.

Fares and hours

Most tickets and passes are sold from automated vending machines. Keep in mind that JR trains are free with a Japan Rail Pass [15].

Prepaid fare cards are convenient and highly recommended because they allow you to ride trains without having to read the sometimes Japanese-only fare maps to determine your fare. There are two brands of prepaid fare cards, JR East's Suica, and PASMO, offered by private (non-JR) lines. Functionally they are completely interchangeable and can be used on just about every subway, train and bus line in Tokyo (with the noted exception of JR's Shinkansen and limited express trains).

The fare cards are rechargeable "smart cards": you simply tap your card on the touch pad next to the turnstile as you go in, and do the same when going through to exit. There is an initial ¥500 deposit that you must pay when purchasing a fare card, but up to ¥20,000 in value can be stored on each card.

The older Passnet cards are not accepted anymore. If you still own some of these, you can exchange them for a PASMO or Suica card.

There are also some special tickets that allow unlimited travel, but most are unlikely to be useful to tourists unless you're planning to spend half your day on the train.

- The Tokunai Pass (都区内パス) is a one-day pass good for travel on JR lines anywhere in the 23 wards of Tokyo (including the entire Yamanote Line and many stations surrounding it). It costs ¥730, making it economical if you plan to make five or more train hops in one day. A variant is the Tokunai Free Kippu (都区内フリーきっぷ), which also includes a round-trip into Tokyo from stations in the surrounding prefectures. The Monorail And Tokunai Free Kippu, which is good for two days and includes a round-trip from Haneda Airport to central Tokyo, is also sold for ¥2,000.

- The Tokyo Free Kippu (東京フリーきっぷ) covers all JR, subway and city bus lines within the 23 wards. It costs ¥1,580 for one day, and covers a number of areas that are not served by JR, such as Roppongi and Odaiba.

- The Holiday Pass (ホリデーパス) covers the entire JR network in the Tokyo metropolitan area, including Chiba, Kanagawa, Saitama and west Tokyo. It costs ¥2,300 for one day, and is only available on weekends, national holidays and during summer vacation (July 20 through August 31).

Who is making announcements in English?

In Tokyo, whichever train you take--namely, JR East, Tokyo Metro, Toei Subway, Tobu Railway, Seibu Railway, Odakyu Electric Railway, and Keisei Electric Railway--you will hear English announcements in a similar voice. Actually, they are all announced by the same voice actor, Christelle Ciari.[16]

In a Japanese interview she said, "Most railway companies I worked for did not give me any instruction on how to pronounce the station names in English. So I decided to read them in the original Japanese accent because I personally thought it was more natural and easier to comprehend for non-native speakers of English. The only exception was JR East, which instructed me to announce the station names in an American accent."

Therefore, you will hear "Shibuya" on Tokyo Metro while you will hear "Sheebooyah" on JR trains.

If you're paying a la carte, subway and train fares are based on distance, ranging from ¥110 to ¥310 for hops within central Tokyo. As a general rule of thumb, Tokyo Metro lines are cheapest, Toei lines are most expensive, and JR lines fall somewhere in the middle (but are usually cheaper than Metro for short trips, i.e. no more than 4 stations). Many of the private lines interoperate with the subways, which can occasionally make a single ride seem unreasonably expensive as you are in essence transferring to another line and fare system, even though you're still on the same train. E.g. changing between Metro subway line and Tokyu private line amounts to paying the sum of each fare: minimum fare Metro ¥160 + minimum fare Tokyu ¥120 = ¥280. In addition, several patterns of transfer are listed as "Transfer Discount", and the most famous one is ¥70 discount, that applies to a transfer between Tokyo Metro and Toei subway lines. When using Suica or PASMO, you can get all transfer discounts automatically. At some transfer stations, you may need to pass through a special transfer gate (both for paper tickets and PASMO/Suica) which is coloured orange - passing through the regular blue gate will not get you your transfer discount and if you have a paper ticket, you won't get it back. At some transfer points (e.g. Asakusa station) you may actually need to transfer on street level as the two stations (Metro Ginza Line and Toei Asakusa Line) are not physically connected and are about one block apart.

It pays to check your route beforehand. The Tokyo Transfer Guide [17] by the Tokyo Metro and Toei subway companies, is an online service that allows you to plan subway and train travel from point A to point B, based on time, cost, and transfers. This guide provides information for Tokyo only, and there are other sites which additionally cover the whole country, see the Japan page. Some major stations have terminals providing information similar to the Tokyo Transfer Guide.

If you can't figure out how much it is to the destination, you can buy the cheapest ticket and pay the difference at the Fare Adjustment Machine (norikoshi) at the end. Most vending machines will let you buy a single ticket that covers a transfer between JR, subway and private lines, all the way to your destination, but working out how to do this may be a challenge if you are not familiar with the system. When transferring between systems, whether paying with tickets or smart cards, use the orange transfer gates to exit. Otherwise, you'll be charged full fare for both separate parts of your trip, instead of the cheaper transfer fare.

Most train lines in Tokyo run from around 5:00AM to 1:00AM During peak hours they run about once every three minutes; even during off-peak hours it's less than ten minutes between trains. The only night when regular passenger services run overnight is for the New Year's Holiday on select lines.

For additional information for train travel in Japan generally, refer to the By rail section in the Japan article.

By taxi

Taxis are very pricey, but may be a value for groups of three or more. Also, if you miss your last train, you may not have another choice.

Fares generally start at ¥710 for the first two kilometers and can add up rapidly. A 20% night surcharge is tacked on from 22:00-5:00 (10 PM to 5 AM). As a rule of thumb, a daytime trip across the city from Tokyo station to Shinjuku station will cost approximately ¥3000, while a daytime trip from Tokyo station to Haneda Airport costs around ¥6200. These examples are based on standard routing and traffic conditions, so your actual fare may vary in relation to the estimated fare.

Do not count on your taxi driver speaking English--or knowing more than the best-known locations, though most taxis have GPS "car navi" systems installed. The best and easiest thing to do is to prepare a map marked with where you want to go, and point it out on the map to the taxi driver. If you are staying at a hotel, they will provide a map. If possible, get a business card, or print out the address in Japanese of any specific places you wish to go. However, because in Japan streets are often unmarked, if the taxi driver does not have GPS he may not be able to do more than take you to the general vicinity of where you want to go. Also, note that taxis can get caught in traffic jams. No tips are expected or given.

Taxi rear left passenger doors are operated by the driver and open and close automatically. Don't open or close them yourself.

By car

Tokyo is a gigantic warren of narrow streets with no names, with slow-moving traffic and extremely limited and expensive parking. In this city with such an excellent mass transit system, you would need a good reason to want to drive around instead. While renting a car can make sense in Japan in some contexts (e.g., visiting a rural onsen resort), in general it is neither convenient nor economical to rent a car to get around metro Tokyo. Taxis are much more convenient if your budget allows it; walking or public transportation is much less expensive and given the difficulties of navigation and finding parking in popular areas, probably easier too.

If you do decide to plunge in and drive around by car, the main expressway serving Tokyo is the Shuto Expressway, abbreviated to Shutoko (首都高) [18]. The C1 Loop Line forms a circle around central Tokyo, similar in fashion to how the Yamanote Line does it by rail. But whereas the Yamanote Line charges ¥130-250 for a single trip, driving a car onto the Shutoko in Tokyo entitles you to pay a nominal entry fee of ¥700 every time you enter the system, with additional tolls (¥300 or ¥500) collected at various other locations.

Driving on the Tokyo Expressway at night can be a pleasant and beautiful experience as you whiz through and around the Tokyo nightlife. When driving at night you should exercise caution and obey speed limits: Street racing over the Shutoko at night became popular in the 80's and 90's and still happens today, albeit on a less frequent basis. Street racers often concentrate their driving on the C1 Loop Line and the Bayshore (more popularly known as the Wangan) Line. "Competitors" sometimes hang out at parking and service areas on the Shutoko, especially the large Daikoku Parking Area at the intersection of the Bayshore Line and the K5 Daikoku Line in Yokohama.

By bus

The few areas within Tokyo that aren't easily accessible by train are served by various bus companies. Buses operating within 23 wards of Tokyo have a fixed fare regardless of distance (¥200 on Toei buses [19] and ¥210 on other private bus companies), which is paid upon boarding from the front door. The fares are not transferable; however most buses do accept Suica or PASMO fare cards (see above). If you use a "Suica" or "PASMO" card to board a Toei Bus, you will receive a ¥100 discount on your next Toei Bus ride as long as it is within 90 minutes of the previous ride. Compared to the trains, the buses run much less frequently, carry fewer passengers, and are much slower. This makes them amenable to the elderly residents of Tokyo, but rather inconvenient for travelers, who will also have to deal with lack of information in English and sometimes very well hidden bus stops. Bus routes can be fairly complicated and are often not listed in detail at the bus stops; signs on the buses themselves often list only two or three main stops in addition to the origin and destination. Inside the bus the next stop is usually announced several times, sometimes by a taped voice and sometimes by a mumbling driver. Recently taped announcements in English are used on some lines, but are still rare. Nevertheless, north-south routes are useful in the western side of the city since train lines (Odakyu, Keio, Chuo, and Seibu) tend to run east-west.

By ferry

The Tokyo Cruise Ship Company operates a series of Water Bus [20] ferries along the Sumida River and in Tokyo Bay, connecting Asakusa, Hinode, Harumi and Odaiba. The ferries feature a recorded tour announced in English as well as Japanese and a trip on one makes for a relaxing, leisurely way to see the waterfront areas of Tokyo. Of particular note is the super-futuristic Himiko ferry [21] designed by anime and manga creator Leiji Matsumoto , which runs on the Asakusa-Odaiba Direct Line. You might want to arrive well before the departure time just in case tickets on the Himiko sell out!

By bicycle

Bicycles are very commonly used for local transport, but amenities like bicycle lanes are rare, drivers pay little heed to bikes and traffic can be very heavy on weekdays, so if you use a bicycle, do not be afraid to cycle on the sidewalk (everyone does). Keep in mind, however, that parts of Tokyo are surprisingly hilly, and it's a sweaty job pedaling around in the summer heat. Central Tokyo can still be covered fairly comfortably by bike on the weekends. Tokyo Great Cycling Tour [22] offers a one day guided tour for biking around major tourist spots in Tokyo, like Marunouchi, Nihonbashi, Tsukiji, Odaiba, Tokyo tower, Imperial palace and so on.

Renting a bike is possible from some youth hostels, particularly around Asakusa, although it's not common. However, buying a simple single-speed roadster is fairly cheap, and comes complete with a built-in bicyle wheel lock system (this is what most Tokyoites use). An imported multiple-geared bike will be much more expensive so get a good lock, as bike theft is a common threat, although the problem is nowhere near as serious as in other countries.

By foot

In this large city with such an efficient public transportation system, walking to get from point A to point B would seem a bit stupid at first glance. However, as the city is extremely safe even at night, walking in Tokyo can be a very pleasant experience. In some areas, walking can be much shorter than taking the subway and walking the transit (the whole Akasaka/Nagatacho/Roppongi area in the center is for instance very easily covered on foot). If you have the time, Shinjuku to Shibuya via Omotesando takes roughly one hour, Tokyo Station to Shinjuku would be a half a day walk, and the whole Yamanote line Grand Tour takes a long day.

Talk

It's possible for English speakers to navigate their way around Tokyo without speaking any Japanese. Signs at subway and train stations include the station names in romaji (Romanized characters). However, despite the fact that most younger Japanese have learnt English in school, the majority of Tokyo's residents only know a few words. Some restaurants may have English menus, but it does not necessarily mean that the staff will speak much English. Reading and writing comes much better though, and many people can understand a great deal of written English without actually knowing how to speak it. That being said, staff at the main hotels and tourist attractions generally speak an acceptable level of English. While it is possible to get by with only English, it will nevertheless make your trip much smoother if you can learn some basic words and phrases in Japanese.

See

Tokyo has a vast array of sights, but the first items on the agenda of most visitors are the temples of Asakusa, the gardens of the Imperial Palace (in Chiyoda) and the Meiji Shrine (明治神宮, in Harajuku).

Tokyo has many commercial centres for shopping, eating and simply wandering around for experiencing the modern Japanese urban phenomenon. Each of these areas have unique characteristics, such as dazzling Shinjuku, youthful Shibuya and upmarket Ginza. These areas are bustling throughout the day, but they really come into life in the evenings.

If you're looking for a viewing platform, the Tokyo Tower is the best known but a rather overpriced, not to say uninspiring, choice. The highest spot in Tokyo is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building (in effect, Tokyo's City Hall) in Shinjuku. Its twin towers have viewing platforms that are absolutely free, and offer a great view over Tokyo and beyond. However, the best option would probably be from the World Trade Center Building (10:00-20:00, or 21:00 in July and August, 620 yen) at JR Hamamatsucho station which, although not as high, offers stunning views of Tokyo Tower and the waterfront due to its excellent location, especially at dusk. A recent addition to the viewing platforms around Tokyo is Tokyo City View in Roppongi Hills, Roppongi -- admission is a steep ¥1500, but includes admission to the Mori Art Museum. Another good option, if you don't mind traffic noise and smell, is the Rainbow Bridge at Odaiba, whose pedestrian walkways are free. The night-time view across Tokyo Bay is impressive but the walkways close at 8:00PM. Also, on a clear day, the Bunkyo Civic Center (next to the Tokyo Dome) offers an iconic view of Shinjuku against Mt. Fuji (especially great at sunset), also free.

The city is dotted with museums, large and small, which center on every possible interest from pens to antique clocks to traditional and modern arts. Many of the largest museums are clustered around Ueno. At ¥500 to ¥1,000 or more, entrance fees can add up quickly.

Riding Sky Bus Tokyo, an open-top double-decker operated by Hinomaru Limousine (every hour between 10AM and 6PM), is a good option to take a quick tour around the city center. The 45 minutes bus ride on the "T-01 course" will take you around the Imperial Palace via Ginza and Marunouchi district, showing the highlight of Tokyo's shopping and business center. The fare is ¥1,500 for adults of 12 years old and over, and ¥700 for children between 4 and 11 years old. You can borrow a multi-language voice guide system free of charge upon purchasing a ticket, subject to stock availability. Four other bus courses are offered, including a night trip to Odaiba, but those trips are conducted in Japanese with no foreign language guidance.

Itineraries

- Classic Tokyo, Modern Tokyo — a one-day tour of the old and the new

- One day in Tokyo — a hectic whirlwind tour of the many faces of the city

Do

- Eat a sushi breakfast at the Tsukiji Fish Market.

- Take a boat ride on the Sumida River from Asakusa.

- Lose yourself in the dazzling neon jungle outside major train stations in the evenings. Shibuya and east Shinjuku at night can make Times Square or Piccadilly Circus look rural in comparison — it has to be seen to be believed.

- Enjoy a soak in a local "sento" or public bath. Or one of the onsen theme parks such as LaQua at the Tokyo Dome (Bunkyo) or Oedo Onsen Monogatari in Odaiba.

- Go to an amusement park such as Tokyo Disney Resort, which consists of Tokyo Disneyland and Tokyo DisneySea which are the world's most visited and second most visited theme parks respectively, or the more Japanese Sanrio Puroland (in Tama), home to more Hello Kitties than you can imagine.

- Check out the hip and young crowd at Harajuku's Takeshita-Dori (Takeshita Street) or the more grown up Omotesando.

- In the spring, take a boatride in Kichijoji's lovely Inokashira Park, and afterwards visit the Ghibli Studios Museum (well-known for their amazing movies, like Spirited Away, and Princess Mononoke), but you will need to buy tickets for these in advance at a Lawson convenience store.

- Take the Yurikamome elevated train across the bay bridge from Shimbashi station to the bayside Odaiba district, and go on the giant ferris wheel — the largest in the world until recently.

- Watch a baseball game, namely the Yomiuri Giants at the Tokyo Dome, or the Tokyo Yakult Swallows at Jingu Stadium. Nearby Chiba hosts the Chiba Lotte Marines.

- Take a stroll through the Imperial Palace's East Gardens (open to the public daily at 9AM, except Fridays and Mondays).

- Have a picnic in a park during the cherry blossom (Sakura). Unfortunately Sakura only lasts for about a week in Spring. But be warned, parks are usually very crowded during this time.

Learn

The curious can study traditional culture such as tea ceremony, calligraphy, or martial arts such as Karate, Judo, Aikido and Kendo. There are also many language schools to help you work on your Japanese. Several universities in Tokyo cater to international students at the undergraduate or graduate level.

- Keio University (慶應義塾大学 Keiō Gijuku Daigaku), [23]. Japan's top private university (unless you ask a Waseda student). Established in the samurai days of yore and has a stuffier rep than Waseda, with alumni including former prime minister Junichiro Koizumi. Main campus in Mita.

- Sophia University (上智大学 Jōchi Daigaku), [24]. A prestigious private, Jesuit university well-known for its foreign language curriculae and large foreign student population. Main campus in Yotsuya.

- Tokyo Institute of Technology (東京工業大学 Tōkyō Kōgyo Daigaku), [25]. Tokyo's top technical university. Main campus in Ookayama.

- University of Tokyo (東京大学 Tōkyō Daigaku), [26]. Japan's uncontested number one university, especially strong in law, medicine and literature. For locals, passing the entrance exams is fiendishly difficult, but exchange students can enter much more easily. Five campuses are scattered around the city, but the main campus is in Hongo.

- Waseda University (早稲田大学 Waseda Daigaku), [27]. Japan's top private university (unless you ask a Keio student), famous as a den of artists and partiers. Former prime minister Yasuo Fukuda is an alum. Main campus in Waseda.

Work

Teaching English (or to a lesser extent, other foreign languages) is still the easiest way to work in Tokyo, but the city also offers more work options than other areas of the country: everything from restaurant work to IT. Certain nationalities are eligible for working holiday visas: for others, work permits can be very hard to come by without a job offer from a Japanese company. Consult your local Japanese consulate/embassy as far in advance as possible.

Buy

If it is for sale anywhere in the world, you can probably buy it in Tokyo. Tokyo is one of the fashion and cosmetic centers in the Eastern world. Items to look for include electronics, funky fashions, antique furniture and kimono, as well as specialty items like Hello Kitty goods, anime and comics and their associated paraphernalia. Tokyo has some of the largest electronic industries in the world, such as Sony, Panasonic, and Toshiba etc.

Cash payment is the norm. Although credit cards are more and more widely accepted, they are far less widespread than in most other developed countries. Most Japanese ATMs do not accept foreign cards, but post office, 7-Eleven and Citibank ones do and usually have English menus as well. The crime rate is very low, so don't be afraid of carrying around wads of cash as the Japanese do. See Buy under Japan. for general caveats regarding electronics and media compatibility.

There are numerous convenience stores throughout Tokyo, which are open around the clock and sell not only food and magazines, but also daily necessities such as underwear and toiletries. Supermarkets are usually open until 10 PM, while drugstores and department stores usually close at 9 PM.

Anime and manga

Akihabara, Tokyo's Electric Town, is now also the unquestioned center of its otaku community, and the stores along Chuo-dori are packed to the rafters with anime (animation) and manga (comics). Another popular district for all things manga/anime is the Nakano ward and its Broadway Shopping arkade. Check out the mandarake shop for loads of used and rare mangas.

In recent years there has been an "otaku boom" in Akihabara. A lot of attention in particular was paid to the town thanks to the popular Japanese drama "Densha Otoko", a love story about an otaku who saves a woman from a train and their subsequent courtship.

Akihabara was previously known for its many live performances and cosplayers, some of which had drawn negative attention due to extremist performers. These have become increasingly scarce following the Akihabara massacre in 2008, although girls in various maid costumes can still be seen standing along the streets handing out advertisement fliers to passers by for Maid Cafes.

Antiques

Serious collectors should head for the Antique Mall in Ginza or the Antique Market in Omotesando, which despite the rustic names are collections of small very specialist shops (samurai armor, ukiyo-e prints, etc) with head-spinning prices. Mere mortals can venture over to Nishi-Ogikubo, where you can pick up scrolls of calligraphy and such for a few thousand yen.

The Antique Festival (全国古民具骨董祭り) [28] is held over the weekend about 5-6 times a year at the Tokyo Ryutsu Center, on the Tokyo Monorail line, and is well worth a visit.

Books

Jinbocho is to used books what Akihabara is to electronics. It's clustered around the Jinbocho subway stop. The Blue Parrot is another shop located at Takadanobaba on the Yamanote line, just two stops north of Shinjuku.

Cameras and electronics

Ever since Sony and Nikon became synonymous with high-tech quality, Tokyo has been a favored place for buying electronics and cameras. Though the lines have blurred since the PC revolution, each has its traditional territory and stores: Akihabara has the electronics stores, including a large number of duty-free shops specializing in export models, and Shinjuku has the camera stores. Unfortunately, local model electronics are not cheap, but the export models are similar to what you'll pay back home. you can sometimes find cheap local models if you avoid big shops and check smaller retailers. It's also surprisingly difficult to find certain things e.g. games machines.

Fashion

Shibuya and neighboring Harajuku are the best-known shopping areas for funky, youthful clothes and accessories. Note that, almost without exception, clothes are sized for the petite Japanese frame.

Department stores and exclusive boutiques stock every fashion label imaginable, but for global labels prices in Tokyo are typically higher than anywhere else in the world. The famous Ginza and Ikebukuro's giant Seibu and Tobu department stores (the largest in the world) are good hunting grounds. Recently, Roppongi Hills has emerged as a popular area for high-end shopping, with many major global brands. Other department stores in Tokyo are Mitsukoshi, Sogo, Marui (OIOI), and Takashimaya. Mitsukoshi is Japan's biggest department store chain. Its anchor store is in Nihonbashi. Marui Men store in Shinjuku has eight floors of high-end fashion for men only.

Kitchenware

The district for this is Kappabashi Street near Asakusa, also known as “Kitchen Town.” The street is lined with stores selling all kinds of kitchen wares — this is where the restaurants of Tokyo get their supplies. It's also a great place to find cheap Japanese ceramics, not to mention plastic food!

Music

Ochanomizu is to the guitar what Jinbocho is to used books. There, you’ll find what must be the world’s densest collection of guitar shops. Plenty of other musical instruments (though not traditional Japanese ones) are also available.

Souvenirs

For touristy Japanese knickknacks, the best places to shop are Nakamise in Asakusa and the Oriental Bazaar in Omotesando, which stock all the kitschy things like kanji-emblazoned T-shirts, foreigner-sized kimonos, ninja outfits for kids and ersatz samurai swords that can be surprisingly difficult to find elsewhere. Both also have a selection of serious antiques for the connoisseur, but see also Antiques above.

Street markets

Bustling open-air bazaars in the Asian style are rare in Tokyo, except for Ueno's Ameyoko, a legacy of the postwar occupation. Yanaka Ginza in the Shitamachi Taito district, a very nice example of a neighborhood shopping street, makes for an interesting afternoon browse.

There are often small flea and antique markets in operation on the weekend at major (and minor) shrines in and around Tokyo.

Eat

The sheer quantity and variety of food in Tokyo will amaze you. Department stores have food halls, typically in the basement, with food which surpasses top delicatessans in other world cities. Tokyo has a large number of restaurants, so see the main Japan guide for the types of food you will encounter and some popular chains. Menus are often posted outside, so you can check the prices. Some shops have the famous plastic food in their front windows. Don't hesitate to drag the waiting staff out to the front to point at what you want. Always carry cash. Many restaurants will not accept credit cards.

Tokyo has literally tens of thousands of restaurants representing more or less every cuisine in the world, but it also offers a few unique local specialties. Nigirizushi (fish pressed onto rice), known around the world around simply as "sushi," in fact originates from Tokyo. Another is monjayaki (もんじゃ焼き), a gooey, cabbage-filled version of okonomiyaki that uses a very thin batter to achieve a sticky, caramelized consistency. It is originally from the Tsukishima area of Chuo and today there are many restaurants near Asakusa offering monjayaki.

- Hot Pepper Available in various editions, by region, around Tokyo, this free magazine offers a guide to local restaurants in Japanese but provides pictures and maps to the restaurants. Some restaurants even offer coupons. Most restaurants within this magazine are on the mid-range to high end scale.

Budget

Much of Tokyo's budget accommodation can be found in the Taito area, especially Asakusa and Ueno. But if you are not afraid of being a little bit off-center, you may have a look to the surroundings: Yokohama, etc.

Do note that most of the cheap accommodations in the Taito area (near JR Minami-senjuu) have curfew times around 10PM to 11PM, so be sure to check that in advance if it bothers you. One hotel that does not have a curfew is Kangaroo Hotel [30], rooms starting at ¥3200. There's also Economy Hotel Hoteiya [31], rooms starting at ¥2500. A list of economy hotels in Tokyo is [32].

Capsule hotels are generally the cheapest option. They may be reluctant to play host to foreigners as there are quite a few rules of behavior which may be difficult to explain; see the Japan article for the full scoop. Most capsule hotels are men-only. Asakusa Riverside [33] and Akihabara Capsule Inn [34] are among the very few to have women-only floors.

24-hour comic book library/internet cafes have become common around Tokyo. This is one of the cheapest ways to crash if you miss your last train and need to wait for the early morning transit service to get started. No bed, but you have a comfy chair and a PC and/or DVDs if you can't sleep. Later in the evening, karaoke boxes often offer discounted prices for the whole night, they usually have a couch you can sleep on. Most of these cyber cafes charge ¥1500–2500 for 8 hours.

One of the cheapest ways to stay can be also a youth hostel, prices start at ¥1200, e.g. in the Shinjuku area.

If you are truly on a budget, it is possible to go homeless and camp in public parks, for free. You can do this with a tent, if you want to carry one, and you can also sleep on benches, as exhausted salarymen and students do. It is also possible to do this all over Japan ; by doing nojuku (as the Japanese call it) and eating in convenience stores or making your own sandwiches from the food you buy in supermarkets, you can stay in Tokyo for around the same price as it would cost you in Kathmandu, Nepal !

Mid-range

There is a wide range of choices in hotels while at Tokyo, most of the hotels are rated 3 stars or more. Tokyo is among most of the other cities when it comes to hotels because their services and hotel locations are the best of the best.

Keep an eye out for what is called a business hotel. The rooms are usually tiny, but they are conveniently located near stations and rates start from around ¥6000. Staff may speak minimal English, but it's not too hard to figure out. These are the best options for solo travelers. Affordable chains found throughout Tokyo include Tokyu Stay [35], which offers free internet access and breakfast, Chisun [36] and Sunroute [37].

Tokyo has some self-proclaimed ryokan (Japanese inns) that cater largely to foreign tourists, mostly concentrated around Ueno and Asakusa. While not as opulent as the real thing, they offer a sample of Japanese home life at affordable rates.

Japan's infamous love hotels can be a reasonable (and interesting) option in Tokyo. Shibuya's Dogenzaka ("Love Hotel Hill") offers the widest selection in the city. If you're really going to spend the night, be sure to check in for a "stay" rather than a "rest". Be warned that some love hotels (at least around Shinjuku) have a 'No Japanese, no stay' policy, presumably to avoid confusion over billing; others lock you into your room until you pay into a slot by the door to leave.

If you plan to stay more than one week, you can try weekly-mansion [38]. These are flats you can rent for short periods of time for reasonable prices. Rates are around ¥5000 per day for one person or a little more for two people. Sometimes you can find deals for as low as ¥4000 per day (look for お得なプラン otoku-na puran). You can also make reservations in English online. Gaijin houses (guest houses for foreigners) can also offer good prices.

Splurge

You can spend a fortune on accommodation in Tokyo. Most of the high-end international chains are well represented. Particular concentrations of luxury hotels can be found in western Shinjuku (including the Park Hyatt Tokyo, featured in Lost in Translation), around Tokyo station (best here are the Seiyo Ginza and Four Seasons Marunouchi), and in Akasaka.

Beware of hotels marketing themselves as being located at "Tokyo Bay". At best, this means you'll be in or near the Odaiba district, built on reclaimed land half an hour away from the city center; at worst, you'll end up somewhere on the coast of the adjacent prefecture of Chiba, which is handy for visiting Tokyo Disneyland but quite inconvenient for touring Tokyo itself.

Drink

The party never stops in Tokyo (at least in the karaoke bars), and you will find good little bars and restaurants everywhere.

The most Japanese way to spend a night out would be at Japanese-style watering holes called izakaya (居酒屋), which offer food and drink in a convivial, pub-like atmosphere (see Japan for details). Cheaper chain izakaya like Tsubohachi (つぼ八) and Shirokiya (白木屋) usually have picture menus, so ordering is simple, even if you don't know Japanese - but don't be surprised if some places have Japanese only touchscreen ordering systems.

Visiting clubs and western-style night spots can get expensive, with clubs and live houses enforcing weekend cover charges in the ¥2000-5000 bracket (usually including a drink coupon or two). For a splurge on a beverage or two, Western Shinjuku's Park Hyatt Tokyo houses the New York Bar on level 52. Providing stunning views day and night across Tokyo, it was also the setting for the movie Lost in Translation. Cocktails here start around ¥1400 - single malt whiskies are upwards of ¥2000.

If you're new in town, Roppongi has establishments which specialize in serving foreigners - but it's also overflowing with foreigners, hostesses, and 'patrons' who will continually hassle you to visit their gentlemen's clubs, where drinks cost ¥5000 and up. Many Japanese and foreigners avoid this area, preferring the clubs and bars in Shibuya instead, or trendy Ginza, Ebisu, or Shinjuku.

The Hub [29], a chain of British-style pubs, has branches in Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Roppongi (as well as near most major stations) and is reasonably priced, but is often used by gaijins and Japanese who want a bit of "action". Other British/Irish pubs can be found in Roppongi, Shinjuku and Shibuya. Expect to pay around 1000 yen a pint, although happy hours can reduce this by a few hundred yen.

In Shibuya, the bar area behind 109 (not 109-2) and next to Dogenzaka ("Love Hotel Hill") has a large number of clubs. Unlike those in Roppongi and Shibuya's Gas Panic, these clubs have entrance fees, but clubs without entrance fees often hassle you all night to buy drinks which ends up just as expensive and without people who are actually there to enjoy the music. Shinjuku is home to Kabukicho, Japan's largest red-light district. Also in Shinjuku is the gay bar district of Shinjuku-nichome. A little further from the city center are Shimokitazawa, Koenji and Nakano, full of good bars, restaurants and "live houses" offering underground/indie music popular with students and 20/30-somethings.

Sleep

There are thousands of hotels in the Tokyo area, ranging from cheap to very expensive. They are distributed throughout the city, with some of the high end and the low end almost everywhere. Many Western-style hotels, especially those affiliated with American hotel chains, have English-speaking staff.

Budget

Much of Tokyo's budget accommodation can be found in the Taito area, especially Asakusa and Ueno. But if you are not afraid of being a little bit off-center, you may have a look to the surroundings: Yokohama, etc.

Do note that most of the cheap accommodations in the Taito area (near JR Minami-senjuu) have curfew times around 10PM to 11PM, so be sure to check that in advance if it bothers you. One hotel that does not have a curfew is Kangaroo Hotel [30], rooms starting at ¥3200. There's also Economy Hotel Hoteiya [31], rooms starting at ¥2500. A list of economy hotels in Tokyo is [32].

Capsule hotels are generally the cheapest option. They may be reluctant to play host to foreigners as there are quite a few rules of behavior which may be difficult to explain; see the Japan article for the full scoop. Most capsule hotels are men-only. Asakusa Riverside [33] and Akihabara Capsule Inn [34] are among the very few to have women-only floors.

24-hour comic book library/internet cafes have become common around Tokyo. This is one of the cheapest ways to crash if you miss your last train and need to wait for the early morning transit service to get started. No bed, but you have a comfy chair and a PC and/or DVDs if you can't sleep. Later in the evening, karaoke boxes often offer discounted prices for the whole night, they usually have a couch you can sleep on. Most of these cyber cafes charge ¥1500–2500 for 8 hours.

One of the cheapest ways to stay can be also a youth hostel, prices start at ¥1200, e.g. in the Shinjuku area.

If you are truly on a budget, it is possible to go homeless and camp in public parks, for free. You can do this with a tent, if you want to carry one, and you can also sleep on benches, as exhausted salarymen and students do. It is also possible to do this all over Japan ; by doing nojuku (as the Japanese call it) and eating in convenience stores or making your own sandwiches from the food you buy in supermarkets, you can stay in Tokyo for around the same price as it would cost you in Kathmandu, Nepal !

Mid-range

There is a wide range of choices in hotels while at Tokyo, most of the hotels are rated 3 stars or more. Tokyo is among most of the other cities when it comes to hotels because their services and hotel locations are the best of the best.

Keep an eye out for what is called a business hotel. The rooms are usually tiny, but they are conveniently located near stations and rates start from around ¥6000. Staff may speak minimal English, but it's not too hard to figure out. These are the best options for solo travelers. Affordable chains found throughout Tokyo include Tokyu Stay [35], which offers free internet access and breakfast, Chisun [36] and Sunroute [37].

Tokyo has some self-proclaimed ryokan (Japanese inns) that cater largely to foreign tourists, mostly concentrated around Ueno and Asakusa. While not as opulent as the real thing, they offer a sample of Japanese home life at affordable rates.

Japan's infamous love hotels can be a reasonable (and interesting) option in Tokyo. Shibuya's Dogenzaka ("Love Hotel Hill") offers the widest selection in the city. If you're really going to spend the night, be sure to check in for a "stay" rather than a "rest". Be warned that some love hotels (at least around Shinjuku) have a 'No Japanese, no stay' policy, presumably to avoid confusion over billing; others lock you into your room until you pay into a slot by the door to leave.

If you plan to stay more than one week, you can try weekly-mansion [38]. These are flats you can rent for short periods of time for reasonable prices. Rates are around ¥5000 per day for one person or a little more for two people. Sometimes you can find deals for as low as ¥4000 per day (look for お得なプラン otoku-na puran). You can also make reservations in English online. Gaijin houses (guest houses for foreigners) can also offer good prices.

Splurge

You can spend a fortune on accommodation in Tokyo. Most of the high-end international chains are well represented. Particular concentrations of luxury hotels can be found in western Shinjuku (including the Park Hyatt Tokyo, featured in Lost in Translation), around Tokyo station (best here are the Seiyo Ginza and Four Seasons Marunouchi), and in Akasaka.

Beware of hotels marketing themselves as being located at "Tokyo Bay". At best, this means you'll be in or near the Odaiba district, built on reclaimed land half an hour away from the city center; at worst, you'll end up somewhere on the coast of the adjacent prefecture of Chiba, which is handy for visiting Tokyo Disneyland but quite inconvenient for touring Tokyo itself.

Contact

Good connections are available at Internet cafes everywhere. Expect to pay ¥400-¥500 per hour. "Gera Gera" is a popular chain. Paid WiFi service is also taking off in Tokyo with reasonable coverage - at a price. WiFi services are probably not convenient for those just visiting.

If you bring your own computer with a WLAN card, it is possible to find wireless connections in fast food outlets like McDonald's or Mos Burger. You also have a good chance to find a connection in one of the numerous coffee shops. Just look for a wireless connection sign in the front window or computers within the shop. Note that free wireless is not nearly as prevalent in Japan as it is in the West.

Stay safe

Tokyo is probably one of the safest big cities you will ever visit, and Japan in general is one of the safest places to visit in the world. Most people, including single female travellers, would not encounter any problems walking along the streets alone at night. Street crime is extremely rare, even late at night, and continues to decrease. However, "little crime" does not mean "no crime", and common sense should still be applied as anywhere in the world. Often the biggest risk is travellers taking Japan's visibly apparent lack of crime too close to heart and doing things they would never do back home.

Small police stations, or Koban, can be found every few blocks. If you get lost or need assistance, by all means go to them; it's their job to help you! They may, however, have difficulties with English, so some knowledge of the Japanese language helps.

Take the usual precautions against pickpockets in crowded areas and trains. Also be aware that theft is more likely to occur in hangouts and bars popular with travellers and non-residents.

The red-light and nightlife districts can be a bit seedy, but are rarely dangerous. Note some small, back-street drinking establishments in red-light districts have been known to charge extortionate prices. Similar problems exist in the seedier upscale clubs in Roppongi, where it may be wise to check cover charges and drink prices in advance.

Still in a jam? Call Tokyo English Life Line [39], tel. , daily 9AM-11PM

If you make it as far out as the Izu Islands, note that visitors to Miyakejima Island are currently required to carry a gas mask, due to volcanic gases. Those in poor health are advised against travelling to the island.

Get out

From Tokyo, the entire surrounding Kanto region is your oyster. Particularly popular destinations nearby include:

- Hakone — for hot springs and views of Mount Fuji

- Kamakura — home to dozens of small temples and one Big Buddha

- Nikko — grandiose shrine and burial site of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu

- Odawara — houses the only Japanese castle in greater Tokyo area

- Tokyo Disney Resort — with Tokyo Disneyland (just like the ones everywhere else) and Tokyo Disney Sea (an only-in-Japan theme park which includes some unique rides and some imported rides from Disney parks outside of Japan)

- Yokohama — Japan's second-largest city and a suburb of Tokyo

The Tokyo area also has some less-famous destinations that are easy day trips from central Tokyo:

- Ashikaga — historical hometown of a famous shogun clan

- Hachioji — a refreshing climb up Mt. Takao through a forest to a shrine and beer garden

- Kawasaki — home to the Nihon Minka-En park with 24 ancient farmhouses (more interesting than it sounds), not to mention the annual Festival of the Iron Penis (Kanamara Matsuri)

- Kinugawa — home to Edo Wonderland, a kitschy theme park recreating 1800's Japan

- Fujino — a small town popular with locals and foreigners alike interested in the arts. Beautiful scenery and very refreshing after the bustle of Tokyo.

And don't forget the islands to the south of Tokyo:

- Izu Islands — easily accessible seaside and hotspring getaways

- Ogasawara Islands — 1000 km away from big-city bustle, for whale watching, diving and those who want to get away from it all

District Chiyoda Table of Contents

• Get in

By bus

• See

Imperial Palace area

Shrines and churches

Other

• Do

• Buy

Eat and Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Splurge

• Contact

• Stay safe

• Get out

Get in
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Tokyo Station (東京駅 Tōkyō-eki), the hub for all Shinkansen trains, lies to the east side of Chiyoda. Note that the Shinkansen exits are on the Yaesu side in Chuo Ward; to get to the Marunouchi side in Chiyoda Ward, you want to cross over to the west exit. The west side of the station is something of a sight in itself as it reflects the station's original World War I-era architecture. The station is presently undergoing a multi-year renovation and facelift (scheduled to be completed around 2011). As of 2009, the station is surrounded by construction so access is limited, although the station can still clearly be seen from certain points along the sidewalk. A benefit of the development is that it has spurred the placement of many interpretive panels along the hoarding, detailing the history, architectural detailing, and future of the station building.

The JR Yamanote line (light green) passes through Tokyo Station in a loop around the center of the city, and the JR Chuo line (orange) and Sobu line (yellow) bisect the loop horizontally. Yurakucho, Akihabara, Kanda (on the Yamanote) and Ochanomizu, Yotsuya (on the Chuo) are among the train stations located within the ward. Narita Express trains from Narita Airport stop at Tokyo (¥2940, 53 min.) on the Sobu platforms.

Many subway lines crisscross the district. These include the Marunouchi Line (red) (to Shinjuku), the Hanzomon Line (purple) (to Shibuya), the Hibiya Line (gray) (to Roppongi), the Tozai Line (blue) (to Nakano), and the Chiyoda Line (green) (to Harajuku). The nearby Toei Asakusa Line (pink) stops slightly to the east at Kyobashi and Nihonbashi, on which Keikyu Line trains run through to Haneda Airport (¥650, about 35 minutes).

Otemachi Station (大手町駅 Ōtemachi-eki), shared by five subway lines, is by far the largest subway station in Tokyo and sprawls under multiple city blocks underneath the Marunouchi district between Tokyo Station and the Imperial Palace. Transferring from, say, the Hanzomon Line to the Toei Mita Line here involves navigating a gauntlet of escalators and walking well over a kilometer.

By bus
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Airport Limousine buses run from Narita to Tokyo Station every 10 to 20 minutes via the Tokyo City Air Terminal (1 1/2 to 2 hours depending on traffic, ¥3000), and less frequently to area hotels. From Haneda, buses run every 30 to 40 minutes (about 45 minutes in duration, depending on traffic, ¥900).

See
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Imperial Palace area
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- Imperial Palace (皇居 Kōkyo), +81 03-3213-1111. Surrounded by a series of moats and high walls, the site of the former Edo Castle has been the official residence of the Japanese imperial family since 1868. Reputedly the most expensive square kilometre in the world, which during the height of Japan's bubble was estimated to be worth slightly more than California. Unfortunately, the inner palace gardens and buildings are closed to the general public except on January 2 and December 23, when the imperial family makes a public appearance. However, foreigners can also apply online[2] to join a free guided tour (weekdays at 10AM and 2PM). If you're feeling lucky, you can also try just showing up at the Imperial Household Agency office located in the northwest corner of the Imperial Palace Park, which is open 9 AM-noon, 1PM-2PM; if there's space, you can join a tour on the same day. Tours are conducted only in Japanese, but electronic audio guides (in English) will be lent to foreign visitors free of charge. At the end of the tour, visitors wishing to enter the East Gardens (see next entry) will be given entrance cards and allowed through to the gardens via a private gate, allowing them to bypass the lines at the main Ōte-mon entrance; pay attention to the announcement in Japanese and queue up as directed.

- Imperial Palace East Gardens. Open daily except Mondays and Fridays. Kept in impeccable shape, the gardens are particularly beautiful during the March and April plum and cherry blossom seasons. Entrance is free through a number of gates; you will be given a plastic entrance card at the gate, which you are obliged to return upon leaving; most visitors use the Ōte-mon (大手門) gate near the Ōtemachi subway station (exit C10). Also an easy walking distance from Tokyo station.

- Kitanomaru Park. Connected to the East Gardens on the North side is this park. Offering much of the same, it is a convenient way to get to Yasukuni Shrine. The park also houses the Nihon Budokan, which regularly stages martial arts competitions and live concerts, as well as the Kagaku Gijyutsukan (Science museum).

- Chidoriga-fuchi Moat (千鳥ヶ淵), on the Northwest side of the Imperial gardens grounds. One of, if not "the" most prominent cherry blossom site in Tokyo, and attracts throngs of people in its March-to-April peak season. It is located just across the street from Yasukuni-shrine. Rowboats are also available for one to row along a limited portion of the moat at ¥500 for 30 minutes, ¥1000 for an hour and at a slightly more expensive rate during cherry blossom periods.

- Yasukuni Shrine (靖國神社 yasukuni-jinja), 3-1-1 Kudan-kita, +81 03-3261-8326, [3]. A controversial shrine to Japan's war dead, housing the souls of some 2.5 million people killed in Japan's wars — including convicted war criminals executed by the Allies. A favorite haunt of right-wing groups in black loudspeaker-equipped trucks. Open daily and free entrance adjacent to Metro Hanzomon line Kudanshita station, or cross the bridge north from Kitanomaru Park. Festivals take place most notably in mid-July and mid-October, which can attract as many people and vendors as it does on New Year's Day when the Japanese come to pray for a prosperous year. It can also get quite crowded during cherry blossom season.

- Yushukan War Memorial Museum (遊就館), (adjacent to the shrine). Daily 9AM-5PM. An odd collection of military paraphernalia (including human torpedoes and letters from kamikaze pilots) and one-sided descriptions of the war. Entry a rather steep ¥800.

Shrines and churches
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- Holy Resurrection Cathedral (ニコライ堂 Nikorai-do), +81 03-3291-1885. A beautifully-restored 1800s-vintage Russian Orthodox cathedral located near Ochanomizu Station on the Chuo Line. Use the Hijiribashi exit. The Hijiribashi bridge by the exit is one of the better looking bridges in Tokyo and looks moderately attractive when lit-up at night.

- Kanda Myojin, a block north across the river from Ochanomizu station. This shrine has a history dating back to the 8th century and had been highly regarded under the Edo shogunate. The current red-pillared structure has been rebuilt after being completely destroyed in the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake. The Kanda Matsuri festival, which takes place in mid-May every other year is one of the largest in Tokyo and is a sight to behold. Arrive before noon or the shrine gets packed with spectators.

- Hie Jinja, located on the opposite side of the Imperial garden, +81 03-3581-2471. Another prominent shrine in Tokyo and the Sanno Matsuri festival it hosts in June is counted among the 3 Great festival of Tokyo. Located a five minute walk from Kokkai-gijido-mae station on the Metro Chiyoda line.

Other
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Japan's administrative center, located around Kasumigaseki and Nagatacho in the southwestern corner of Chiyoda, is full of very un-picturesque buildings. One exception is the Ministry of Justice (exit 5 from Sakuradamon, Yurakucho Line), a beautiful 1800s-vintage building that would make any European capital proud. The National Diet Building (Kokkai-gijido-mae, Marunouchi Line) may also be worth a photo, although its architecture is rather uninspiring compared to other national assemblies' -- even the Tokyo Metropolitan Government has cooler-looking accommodations in Shinjuku.

- National Museum of Modern Art (MOMAT), 3-1 Kitanomaru-koen (closest to Takebashi station on the Tozai subway line), +81 03-5777-8600, [4]. Tu-Th, Sa-Su 10:30AM-5PM, F 10:30AM-8PM, closed M. With a modest permanent collection on display and regularly changing exhibitions, MOMAT is a nice place to kill a couple of hours after you've seen the Imperial Palace across the road. Entry to the nearby Crafts Gallery is included in the price. ¥420 for adults, ¥130 for students and children under 15 free. Admission is also free on May 18, November 3 and the first Sunday of every month. Special exhibits extra.

- Idemitsu Art Museum, on the 9th floor of the Imperial Theatre building (on the East side of the Imperial gardens), +81 03-3213-9402, [5]. Daily 10AM-5PM (until 7PM on Fridays). Has a noteworthy collection centering on Japanese traditional arts ¥1000 fee for adults.

- Yamatane Museum of Art, (a short walk from Hanzomon station on the Metro Hanzomon line), 03-3239-5911. Daily 10AM-5PM. Specializes in modern Japanese-style paintings and has a notable collection though only a handful are on display at one time due to preservation issues. 600 yen for adults.

- New Otani Art Gallery, on the 6th floor of the New Otani hotel, 4-1 Kioi-Cho (closest from Nagata-cho station on the Metro Hanzomon line, or Yotsuya station if using the JR), +81 03-3221-4111, [6]. 10AM-6PM. Showcases a small collection of French and Japanese arts. ¥500.

- Kokuritsu Gekijo (National Theatre), (walking distance from either Hanzomon or Nagatacho stations of the Metro Hanzomon lines et. al.), +81 03-3265-7411, [7]. For those interested in theatre arts, the Kokuritsu Gekijyo holds performances in traditional arts ranging from Kabuki, Noh drama, Bunraku puppet theatre, etc. You may want to check the schedule and make a reservation beforehand.

- Tokyo International Forum, located in front of Yurakucho station, +81 03-5221-9000. A massive, modern exhibition centre used for concerts, conventions and the like. On weekdays there are usually several food wagons selling boxed lunches, but aside from this there may not be much of interest to the casual tourist--except, of course, the impressive design. The atrium may be the most well-known symbol of the building, and one is able to stroll up the long, spiral walkway that runs along its glass-and-steel walls. The Tokyo Tourist Info Center, which used to be here, has been relocated to Shinjuku.

Do
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Visit one of the three major shrines (Kanda Myojin, Hie Jinja or Yasukuni Shrine) during the New Year holiday if you happen to be visiting, or immerse yourself in one of the major festivals which takes place during the year. There are no restrictions on entry regardless of religious belief or background.

As stated in the See section, cherry blossoms can be viewed in various places around the Imperial Palace gardens. Also, many people take advantage of the fact that no public roads enter the palace grounds (and thus, no red lights for pedestrians) for a little jogging around the garden's outer ring (which may take roughly an hour to walk around). However, since most of central Chiyoda Ward is office buildings, it is virtually lifeless after sundown as most of the population leaves for the suburbs.

Buy
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Central Chiyoda doesn't offer much in the way of shopping, but the eastern side has three areas of interest:

- Akihabara for electronics and anime-related goods of all kinds, covered in a separate article.

- Jimbocho (神保町), Metro Hanzomon/Toei Shinjuku/Toei Mita Jimbocho station. A district specializing in new and used books — mostly in Japanese, but some in English and other languages. Scores of used book or antique book shops line the main streets of Hakusan Dori (白山道り), Yasukuni Dori (靖国道り), and Kanda Suzuran Dori (神田すずらん通り), as well the numerous back alleys. Some stores specialize in subjects such as religion, architecture, or screenplays, while others handle a general range of subjects. Some shops specialize in various erotic material, including used pornography.

- Kanda (神田) and Ochanomizu (お茶の水) Stations. For musical instruments and sports equipment. These districts tend to have their largest stores along major streets.

Some other shopping areas include:

- A recent revamping of the Marunouchi business district has resulted in some high-end boutiques such as Tiffany's, Gaultier, Sergio Rossi etc. lining the street from the Marunouchi building to Yurakucho, but there is a feeling that it's not quite "there" yet, compared to the repertoires of the Ginza or Omotesando shopping districts.

- There is a huge, six-floor Bic Camera electronics store in front of JR Yurakucho Station, selling everything from household appliances to contact lenses. There is even a small movie theater on the 7th and 8th floors showing lesser-known Japanese and foreign films. Perhaps a good place for a one-stop shop if you are not able to spend time exploring the streets of Akihabara.

- The Maruzen bookshop in the Oazo building in front of Tokyo Station may be your best bet to look for English books in Tokyo, including a "Books on Japan" section. If you don't find what you are looking for here, you probably won't have much luck looking elsewhere.

Eat and Drink
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- Among the expensive clubs and restaurants spilling over from the Ginza, an offbeat dining option is the yakitori stalls under the train tracks near JR Yurakucho station. A throwback to old Tokyo, this is where businessmen unwind with grilled yakitori chicken on skewers and a couple of cold nama biiru (draft beers) after a hard day. Expect to pay at least ¥2000 for a few beers and a half dozen skewers.

- As the Jimbocho and Ochanomizu areas house dozens of major colleges and universities, the area is filled with cheap restaurants, fast food joints and cafes of all kinds. There is also a high density of curry restaurants.

- The Marunouchi and Shin-Marunouchi Buildings in front of Tokyo station are your best bet for a decent meal in the Marunouchi area, especially on the weekend when most other buildings are closed. Various restaurants from Italian to Hawaiian to Sushi are situated inside, but the bill may be a bit pricy for a casual lunch.

- Restaurant Peter, 24th Floor, Hotel Peninsula (Private lift from hotel lobby), +81 03-6270 2763, [8]. Amazing views of Imperial Palace. Excellent service. Lunch seems the best value. Dress Code: elegant casual. From ¥4900 lunch.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Green Ochanomizu Hotel, Kanda-Awajicho 2-6 (5 minutes from JR Ochanomizu Station and almost in the direct center of the Yamanote Line), +81 03-3255-4161, [9]. Green Hotel Ochanomizu is an extremely accommodating hotel, perfect for the traveler who prefers a quiet sanctuary in the hustle and bustle. Ochanomizu station itself is but two stops from both Tokyo and Shinjuku, via the Rapid Chuo Line service, both of which are on Yamanote. Broadband access is free in most rooms. Singles at around ¥8400 and doubles at ¥9500..

Splurge
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- Imperial Hotel Tokyo (帝国ホテル Teikoku Hoteru), Uchisaiwaicho 1-1-1, +81 03-3504-1251, [10]. Never mind upstarts like the Park Hyatt, this is the grand old dame of Tokyo's hotels with over 115 years of history behind it and legendary service fit for an Emperor. Standard rooms are musty, but the refurbished Imperial Floor rooms are nice. The hotel overlooks Hibiya Park and is only a short walk from the Imperial Palace and the Ginza. Room rates are unsurprisingly steep at ¥43,000 and up, with few discounts on offer..

- The New Otani, Kioicho 4-1, +81 03-3265-1111‎, [11]. The flagship of the international New Otani chain, and one of the largest hotels in Tokyo, with a variety of shops and restaurants under its roof. Convenient for business travellers, as it is located within an easy walk of Akasaka, Nagatacho, and other international business districts; less convenient for tourists, although somewhat close to Roppongi, Shinjuku, and other play areas. Standard rooms start around ¥36,000.

Contact
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- The Tokyo Tourist Information Center has moved from Yurakucho's International Forum to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building in Shinjuku.

Stay safe
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On occasion, menacing black vans with fluttering "Rising Sun" flags and Imperial chrysanthemum logos may screech militaristic propaganda around the Yasukuni Shrine and near the Nagatacho/Kasumigaseki areas. With xenophobic right-wing attitudes financed by the yakuza (Japan's mafia) and tacit police cooperation, foreigners may get baleful looks from the young sunglassed toughs running the show, but they are not a real danger unless actively provoked.

Smoking on the major streets and sidewalks are prohibited by law in Chiyoda Ward. Although not altogether strictly enforced, if you get unlucky be aware that the fines go up to 20,000 yen.

Get out
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The glitzy stores of the Ginza and the business district of Akasaka (not a bad choice for lunch) are within easy walking distance from southern Chiyoda.

District Akihabara Table of Contents

• Get in

By train

See & Do

• Buy

Electronics

Anime and Manga

Figures

Other goods

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Get out

Get in
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By train
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Akihabara is centered around Akihabara Station, located on the JR Yamanote, Keihin-Tohoku, and Chuo Local lines. Just take the conveniently labeled "Akihabara Electric Town" exit to be dropped into the middle of the action.

Akihabara is also the terminal of the Tsukuba Express Line, which runs to Tsukuba and other stations in Ibaraki and northern Chiba prefectures. (45 minutes to/from Tsukuba via kaisoku)

Getting to Akihabara by subway is also quite easy; travel to Akihabara Station by the Hibiya line (H15), or Suehirocho Station by the Ginza line (G14). The Toei Shinjuku line is also a 10 minute walk to Akihabara from the Iwamotocho Station (S08)

There is no direct connection to the airports, but it's readily reached from Narita Airport with a brief connection on the Yamanote, either from Nippori for the Keisei Skyliner (55 minutes, ¥2550) or from Tokyo via the Narita Express (75 minutes, ¥2940). Taking the often-crowded Keisei limited express (tokkyu) increases travel time to 90 minutes, but lowers the fare to ¥1150. In the evening, Access Tokkyu commuter trains between Narita Airport and Nippori shave 20 minutes off of the overall travel time against a ¥200 additional fare.

You can also use the Keisei limited express from Narita Airport to Funabashi, then walk to the JR Funabashi station and take a Sobu Line local train to Akihabara (90 minutes, ¥1100).

For Haneda Airport, the Yamanote will also take you to Hamamatsucho; transfer there to the airport-bound Tokyo Monorail (40 minutes, ¥620).

See & Do
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Akihabara is all about shopping. One of its few sights, the Transportation Museum, has closed and was reopened in Saitama as the Railway Museum in October 2007.

- Tokyo Animation Center, +81 03-5298-1188, [2]. 11AM-7PM. A centerpiece of the area, offering up information, showings, demonstrations, and events centered around animation and gaming. It can be found by exiting the station towards 'Electric town' and heading out the right side of the station. It is the furthest of the two large modern skyscrapers in your immediate eyeline.In the recording studio, visitors can experience a post-recording on certain days. Free.

- On Sundays, the main thoroughfare Chūō-dōri is closed to vehicles, and it turns into an unofficial stage for cosplayers (people dressed up as cartoon characters) and local bands to strut their stuff. Sadly, this is not as populated as it once was following a bizarre 2008 incident where a knife-wielding lunatic went around stabbing people at random, but the cosplayers are slowly returning.

Akihabara is also perhaps the last stronghold in the world for classic arcade gaming. Although arcades are still everywhere in Japan, and more so in Tokyo, the concentration (and skill of play) is especially high in Akihabara. The huge towers of Sega, Taito, and others can't be missed, but places like "Hey Arcade" (on Chūō-dōri) have entire floors dedicated to shooting games (think Galaga) and fighting games (think Tekken). Recommended for a nostalgic trip back to the eighties, and to check out the pros.

On a more classic note, Akihabara also has its own temple site, to the left off of Chūō-dōri as you walk towards Ueno. It is mostly noteworthy for the festival it organizes around May. On this occasion, a massive shrine is traditionally carried through the streets of Akihabara, providing an interesting contrast with all the high-tech to say the least.

Buy
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Electronics
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Sprawled in every direction off the main street Chūō-dōri (中央通り) are more smaller streets with even more electronics stores. Note that the further from the main street you get the better the prices - but the more you stray, the less foreigner-friendly the shops are. On Sunday afternoons, the main street is blocked to vehicle traffic and the area becomes a bit of a flea market - you can walk freely along the main avenue and many small vendors set up tables on the side streets. You can't miss the street performers; everything from maid-fetish karaoke to Incan music can be heard on a good Sunday.

Though battery-powered electronics are basically the same world-wide, AC-powered electronics designed for the Japanese market use 100 volts, so "native" Japanese electronics may require a step-down transformer outside Japan. Even the U.S. standard 110V voltage is too high for many devices. Also, the majority of these products have no international warranty, and are labeled and documented only in Japanese. Head for the many duty-free shops to find export models, but note that they are priced at a premium.

Larger shops can arrange sales tax exemptions for purchases of over ¥10000, saving you 5%. Unlike most countries, in Japan the tax is waived immediately, so there is no need to run through complicated reclaiming hoops. However, you will have to show your passport and (in theory) you should clear your purchase through customs at the airport on the way out. Many shops take credit cards, but some may charge you a small percentage added to the transaction. This is technically not allowed, and some credit card agents will reimburse the charge if properly reported.

Also keep an eye out for used (中古 chūko) electronics stores, which offer pre-owned computers, mp3 players, PDAs and other hardware at rock-bottom prices.

- LaOX Duty Free, 1-15-3 Soto-Kanda (on Chuo-dori, close to JR Akihabara station), +81 03-5207-5027, [3]. M-Th 10AM-8PM, F-Sa 10AM-9PM, Su/Holiday 10AM-8PM. LaOX Duty Free specializes in export products and has multilingual staff on hand.

- ONODEN Tax-Free Department, 1-2-7 Soto-Kanda (on Chuo-dori, close to JR Akihabara station, Electric Town exit), +81 03-3253-4742, [4]. 10AM-8PM daily. ONODEN specializes in overseas electronics. Multilingual staff.

- Radio Center (ラジオセンター), 1-14-2 Soto-Kanda (take JR Akihabara Electric Town exit, then turn right), [5]. Radio Center is an unbelievable two-floor warren of tiny shops, each specializing in (for example) LEDs, voltage meters, ceramic capacitors or miniature cameras. Heaven for the do-it-yourself electronics aficionado, and these days a flashback to the Akiba of yesteryear.

- Yodobashi Akiba, (at JR Akihabara Showa-dori Exit), +81 3-5209-1010, [6]. 9:30AM-10PM daily. Electronics giant Yodobashi's new massive 9-story flagship store selling anything that beeps or clicks, from PCs to games to cameras. Many languages spoken, tax-free and credit cards no problem, and their famous Gold Point Card system gets you credit worth 10% of your purchase, usable for two years starting the next day. Unfortunately you need to choose between points or tax-free.

Anime and Manga
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Some of Akihabara's largest anime-goods stores can be found along Chūō-dōri. Just head for the street from JR Akihabara Station and walk north.

- Animate (アニメイト), (On Chūō-dōri, located right next to Comic Toranoana), +81 03-5209-3330, [7]. 10AM-9PM. Seven floors - plus one basement level - of pure otaku goodness. From DVDs and manga to character goods and games, the variety of merchandise on offer is mind-bogglingly vast and will make anime/manga fans wish they were made of money.

- Comic Toranoana (コミックとらのあな), (On Chūō-dōri, located right next to Animate), +81 03-5294-0123, [8]. 10AM-10PM. Looking for dōjinshi? This is the place to head for.

Figures
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The first rule is pretty obvious, don't buy what you want as soon as you see it, chances are that another store will have it cheaper, sometimes up to half the price. Unfortunately it is not as simple as it getting cheaper the further you go from the station. There is an interesting dynamic where things sometimes get cheaper the further you climb the stairs. Due to a lack of standardization it would seem, you can also find the same item in the same shop for multiple prices. Naturally, be careful as if the price is very low you may have walked into a 2nd hand or a cast offs store.

Other goods
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Besides electronics, Akihabara also has a great number of specialty hobbyist stores, ranging from anime and manga to collectible toys to military and railway fandom.

- Don Quijote, 4-3-3 Sotokanda (Chuo-dori), [9]. Japanese discount store chain offering an incredibly wide range of items at low prices, from snack food to clothing to gag gifts. The Akihabara outlet also has well-stocked costume and adult toy departments to cater to the local crowd. Located also at the top floor of Don Quijote is the theatre of AKB48. AKB48 is a home-grown, all-girl idol group started in 2005 and is now quite popular in Japan. They perform 2 shows on weekdays and 3 shows on weekends. If you are into J-pop music and cute girls all rolled into one, then you should not miss this. Tickets ¥3000 for males and ¥2000 for females..

- Weiss Blau Residenz Bukiya (ヴァイスブラウレジデンツ直営店　武器屋), Takara Bldg 402, Soto-Kanda 1-5-7, +81 3-3254-6435, [10]. Th-Tu 11AM-7PM. The shop of choice for the historical military buff, with everything from Spartan helmets to Celtic longswords, Napoleon-era uniforms and tons and tons of Japanese weaponry across the ages. They're all replicas, but prices vary widely depending on how close to the real thing you want it.

Eat
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There is a large number of good eateries in Akihabara, but not much in the way of haute cuisine. Under the railway tracks around Okachimachi station (JR Yamanote line), on the East side, you will find ramen noodle bars, izakayas and the like.

- Yoshinoya, (located across the road from the north exit of Yodobashi Camera). Chain fast food restaurant selling gyudon beef bowls. Meals start from around ¥300-400

- Tenya (てんや), (located a few blocks down Chuo-dori towards Metro Suehirocho), +81 03-5807-8422. Cheap fast-food tempura. Basic ''tendon'' bowl costs less than ¥500, a steal by any standard.

- Traveler's Dining Pushup, Akihabara 1-5 1F, +81 03-5294-5525, [11]. M-Sa noon-2PM, 5PM-midnight. A tiny place located in an alley right behind the Akihabara Capsule Inn, it's convenient for anyone staying there. Both Japanese and foreign food is served. The owner, Yuki, is a former backpacker and will happily give advice on choosing the right sho-chu from a selection of 60 different kinds. Try the raw octopus (tako) in tomato sauce or the kimchi risotto!

- Sushi Zanmai (すしざんまい), Yodobashi Akiba 1F/8F, +81 03-5298-4798, [12]. Excellent sushi at fairly reasonable prices. The first floor outlet is a traditional chef and counter operation, the eighth floor is a more foreigner-friendly "conveyor belt"-style. Plates ¥98-628, most in the ¥150-300 range.

Drink
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Akihabara's latest boom is maid cafes, where pretty girls dressed up as French maids serve you drinks and dote on you, some going as far as to spoon-feed you.

- Cure Maid, Jisto Akiba 6F, 3-15-5 Sotokanda, +81 3-3258-3161, [13]. 11AM-7PM (or later) daily. The original and not quite as over-the-top (or expensive) as some of the competition. From ¥500.

- Neko JaLaLa (ねこJaLaLa), 東京都千代田区外神田3-5-5 1F (8 mins from Akihabara station: on the next main road west after Chuo-doori, about 7-8 blocks north of the Chuo railway line. Look for a brown sliding door with a cat's foot), +81 03-3258-2525 (shop@nekojalala.com), [14]. 11AM-7PM. A recent phenomenon in Tokyo has been the rise of 'cat cafes': you play with the shop's (very clean) cats while drinking tea. You'll be asked to remove your shoes and wash your hands on entry. You'll also be gently pressured to order one of their drinks. It's a different experience. ¥500 for first 30 minutes, then ¥150 for each ten minutes. Drinks are ¥300 to ¥500.

Sleep
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There are only a few places to sleep in Akihabara, and even Capsule Inn Akihabara closed its doors in 2009. Most visitors camp out elsewhere in the city; Ueno, in particular, offers cheap lodging and is just minutes away.

- Akihabara Washington Hotel. Across from Akihabara station, reopened in July 2010 after renovation. Small rooms but excellent value and extremely convenient to transportation.

Get out
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Akihabara is within walking distance of the Ochanomizu and Ueno areas. The station also connects to both the Sobu-Chuo and the Yamanote JR Lines.

District Chuo Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

Understand
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While the name literally means "Center", this district loses out in prestige (if only very slightly) to neighboring Chiyoda, home to the Emperor among others. Still, the Ginza is generally reckoned to have the most expensive real estate on earth and there are plenty of bright lights... and a famous fish market too.

Get in
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The western edge of Chuo starts on the Yaesu (east) side of Tokyo Station, and if your legs are feeling up to it, you can get pretty much anywhere worth seeing within a 45-minute walk. Otherwise, take the subway.

See
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- Tsukiji Fish Market (築地市場 Tsukiji-shijō), 5-2-1 Tsukiji (Tsukijishijo Station, Toei Oedo Subway), +81 03-3542-1111, [2]. Outer Market 5 AM-1 PM, Wholesale Market 9 AM-1 PM, Tuna Auction 5 AM-6:15 AM; closed Sundays, holidays, and the second and fourth Wednesdays of each month. More properly the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market, the famous market is worth a visit for 1600 stalls of bizarre sea creatures, including large blue fin tuna, live shell fish, deep sea crabs, eels and salmon. As you might expect everything is covered in slippery sea water, so choose footwear accordingly. To avoid obstructing traffic, you should not bring large bags or suitcases. Also, watch out for water (often with blood) splashing from containers being moved. It is very busy but the locals don't mind visitors and photographs (no flash), as long as you stay out of the way and don't get in the way of business. Get here as early as possible, which means a taxi if you want to see the auctions, but much cheaper and quite acceptable alternative is to take the first subway in the morning around 6. Hibiya line Tsukiji station is a short walk away, while O-Edo line Tsukiji-shijo drops you right next to the action. While the market stays open until 1PM, the action drops off after 8AM and many shops close after 10AM or so. Note that the wholesale market inside Tsukiji is off-limits to visitors until after 9 AM, although visitors are welcome to visit the outside market when it opens from 5 AM. Free.

NOTE regarding the Tuna Auction: Following the March 11th Tohoku Earthquake and Tsunami, The tuna auction is off limits until further notice, however other parts of the market will be open during this time, as described above.

The famous early morning tuna auctions are open to tourists with restrictions, since visitors to the tuna auction have disrupted proceedings in the past. There is a maximum limit of 140 visitors to the tuna auction every day that it is held. Viewing tickets are issued on a first come, first serve basis beginning at 4:30 AM at the market's Fish Information Center, located next to the Kachidoki entrance. The first 70 ticket holders are able to view the auction from 5 AM until 5:40 AM, while the other 70 ticket holders can view the remainder of the auction from 5:40 AM until 6:15 AM. Flash photography inside the auction area is prohibited.

It is important to get to Tsukiji as early as possible, especially on busy days, so as not to get shut out. Note that access to the Tuna Auction area may still be off-limits on some dates, especially during busy times of the year.

- Tsukiji Hongwanji, 3-15-1 Tsukiji (accessible from Tsukiji (Hibiya Line) or Tsukiji-shijo (Oedo Line)), +81 03-3541-1131, [3]. A Jodo Shinshu temple just a few blocks away from the fish market, worth seeing because of its unique, South Asian-inspired architecture. Buddhist services are held in English on Saturday evenings.

- Tokyo Stock Exchange, 2-1 Nihombashi Kabutocho (accessible from Kayabacho (Tozai and Hibiya Lines) or Nihombashi (Asakusa Line)), +81 03-3665-1881, [4]. Tokyo's stock exchange, while one of the largest in the world by capitalization, is now entirely automated, and the tiny building it resides in is mostly for show, featuring a small museum, exhibition hall, and broadcasting facilities.

- Hama-rikyu Gardens (浜離宮恩賜庭園), 1-1 Hama-rikyu Teien (7 min walk from Shinodome, Tsukiji-shijo or Yurikamome subway stations, 10 min. walk from JR Shimbashi station), +81 03-3541-0200. Originally built by 17th-century shoguns for their private enjoyment, Hama-rikyu is now a public walking garden with an all-season range of flowers and flowering trees. The highlight is the tea house, picturesquely set on a small island in the middle of a pond, where green tea and sweets are available for ¥500. The garden is located next to Tsukiji fish market. A boat which runs up the Sumida River to Asakusa departs from inside the park. Park admission ¥300 (age 65+ ¥150, primary school children free).

Do
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- Tokyo Kūa, right under the Yaesu entrance to Tokyo Station, [5]. Daily 6AM-11PM. The self-proclaimed first sauna and spa in Japan, still going strong. Open for men only. Entry ¥2300.

Buy
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The Ginza, covered in its own article, is one of the world's most famous (and most expensive) shopping districts.

Eat
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Budget
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Past Tsukiji on Harumi-dori is the island neighborhood of Tsukishima (月島, "Moon Island"), known mainly for its many restaurants serving monja-yaki (もんじゃ妬き). It's like okonomiyaki, but the dough is much more runny and the ingredients are finely chopped, leading to what looks like a puddle of vomit. Just remember the essentials: you form the shredded cabbage into a ring on the griddle and pour the leftover liquid in the middle, and you use the tiny spatulas to press the mixed batter onto the griddle until it sizzles, then eat it right off the spatula. (Most shop staff will be more than happy to assist.) Sounds strange, doesn't it? It is. To get here, take the Yurakucho/O-Edo Line to Tsukishima station, and you'll find "Monja Town" [6] aka Nishinaka-dori (西仲道り) extending out from near exit 7, with no less than 70 restaurants crammed into a couple of city blocks.

- Oshio Honten (おしお本店), Tsukishima 3-17-10, 03-3531-7423, [7]. The original shop of one of the better-known chains here, with half a dozen restaurants. Try the mentaiko-shiso monja with cod roe and perilla, which tastes oh so much better than it looks. Monjas from ¥1000 up (serves two).

The northern section of Tsukishima is named Tsukudajima (佃島), and is the origin of tsukudani　(佃煮), a way of preserving food by simmering it in a sticky soy and sugar sauce. This has fallen out of style in most of Japan but is still commonly available here. Seafood, seaweed (konbu) and various vegetables are the most common ingredients, but if you're looking for something more interesting, try inago (いなご) tsukudani, made from locusts!

- Yoshinoya Tsukiji Store No. 1 (吉野家築地一号店 Yoshinoya Tsukiji Ichigō-ten), Tsukiji 5-2-1 (Central Wholesale Market, Food C), [8]. Beef bowl fans come here in droves to make a pilgrimage to Yoshinoya's original store, which dates back to 1926. (Yoshinoya actually opened in Nihombashi around 1899, but along with the entire fish market, they moved to Tsukiji after the Great Kanto Earthquake.) The interior is done up in old Edo style, looking more like an upmarket sushi shop than fast food, and the menu is limited to one main dish only: beef bowl (牛丼 gyūdon) for ¥380 yen, plus optional sides like egg, miso, pickles etc. Opening hours are the same as the Tsukiji Market, and you'll probably need to ask for directions to find it in the vast bowels of the market.

Mid-range
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Try a sushi breakfast at Tsukiji. The fish is guaranteed to be as fresh as possible and the prices, while not cheap, are surprisingly affordable given the extraordinary quality - figure on ¥2000-¥3000 for an omakase set of whatever is good today. For comparison, a meal of a similar caliber in the Ginza would easily cost over ¥10,000.

Tsukiji's restaurants can be found in alleys of Building 6, reached by walking in from the main entrance and turning right at the central square. The following two sushi joints are very popular, so be prepared to queue on weekends (an hour's wait is typical) unless you get there very early. Smaller groups may be served before larger ones. Both make a point of serving only fresh fish that has never been frozen.

- Daiwa Sushi (大和寿司), 03-3547-6807, [9]. 5:30AM-1:30PM. The larger of the two, so the queue moves faster. The standard omakase course is ¥3500 (7 pieces & 1 roll), and a cheaper ¥2100 version also available. Famous for their meltingly soft anago (conger eel).

- Sushidai (寿司大), 03-3547-6797, [10]. 5AM-2PM. ¥3900 for day's set (10 pieces & 1 roll), of which you get to choose the last piece. They also have a cheaper ¥2500 version.

Quite a few other sushi places can be found in the streets outside the market.

- Sushizanmai (すしざんまい), 11-9 Tsukiji (near Shin-Ohashi-dori/Harumi-dori crossing), [11]. The self-proclaimed "King Of Tuna", this is now a large chain but they originate from here in Tsukiji, where they have no less than 7 locations and the three-story Honten is open 24 hours. Prices are per roll and range from ¥100-500, or order a set meal for ¥3000. They have an excellent English menu.

Drink
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The Ginza has a large array of drinking establishments, most of which are also extremely expensive. This is where the Japanese horror stories of $100 for a beer originate from. Choose carefully, or head elsewhere.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Sumisho Hotel, 9-14 Nihonbashi Kobunacho, +81 03-3661-4603 (fax: 03-3661-4639), [12]. A ryokan style hotel in walking distance from Tokyo Station, Japanese style rooms and big traditional bath available. Singles start at ¥7000, doubles at ¥11,000.

Mid-range
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- Hotel Kazusaya (かずさや), 4-7-15 Nihombashi-Honcho (near Shin-Nihombashi Station, Sobu Line), +81 03-3241-1045 (web@h-kazusaya.co.jp), [13]. Singles ¥8000-9000, doubles ¥14,700.

- Tokyu Stay Nihombashi, 4-7-9 Nihombashi-Honcho, +81 03-3231-0109 (fax: +81 03-3231-0112), [14]. Slight discounts are offered for extended stays. Part of the Tokyu Stay chain, these hotels are popular with business travelers. The small kitchenettes, washer/dryers, and free LAN access in all rooms makes these a good value. Singles start at ¥9,450, twin rooms ¥17,850.

- Tokyu Stay Higashi Ginza, Tsukiji 4-11-5, +81 03-5551-0109, [15]. Part of the Tokyu Stay chain. Free internet access, microwave, washer-dryer, and kitchenette in each room. Good staff, views of nearby temple. Located very close to Tsukiji fish market, avoiding an early morning taxi ride. Singles from ¥9400, twins from ¥14,700 per night, breakfast included. Discounts for extended stays..

Splurge
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- Royal Park Hotel, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi-Kakigara-cho, +81 03-3667-1111, [16]. Five-star luxury hotel, adjacent to Tokyo City Air Terminal (TCAT) via skybridge. Suitengumae Subway Station is underneath the hotel.

District Ginza Table of Contents

• Get in

By train

By bus

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

Coffee

Bars and pubs

Clubs

• Sleep

Budget

Mid range

Splurge

• Get out

Get in
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By train
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Getting to Ginza is easy - in the heart of the area is Ginza station, connected to the Marunouchi (M16), Ginza (G09), and Hibiya (H08) subway lines. Alternatively you may walk to the area from the JR Shimbashi or Yurakucho stations, Higashi-Ginza station on the Toei Asakusa (A11) or the Ginza Itchome station on the Yurakucho (Y19) subway line.

Connections from Narita Airport can be made either by taking the Keisei line to Ueno, then changing to the Ginza line (¥2,080 and 80 minutes via Keisei's reserved Skyliner service, or ¥1,160 and about 100 minutes via their limited express commuter service), or by JR's Narita Express to Tokyo Station and then the Marunouchi subway (¥2,900, 80 minutes). Both airport services offer numerous additional connections if your destination is closer to another station. Domestic passengers flying into Haneda Airport have it easier - Keikyu trains travel directly from the airport to the Asakusa line's Higashi-Ginza station (¥650, 30 minutes).

By bus
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Airport Limousine Buses run from the airport to major hotels in Ginza, taking 80-90 minutes under normal highway traffic and costing ¥3000.

See
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- The heart of Ginza is the intersection of Chuo-dori and Harumi-dori, dominated by the glass cylinder of the San-ai Building. With its huge neon sign, it's been the image of Ginza on postcards and travel books for decades now. The other corners are occupied by Wako and Mitsukoshi, two of the most prestigious department stores (the former being a cut above), and the Nissan Gallery [1], which shows off new and classic automobiles.

- Sony Building, 5-3-1 Ginza (on Sukiyabashi Crossing), [2]. The Sony Showroom has four floors of the latest Sony products, with a small shop on the 3rd floor. The building also houses a BMW showroom.

- The side streets of Ginza are full of art galleries featuring paintings, photography, and graphic design. The Nichido Garo (日動画廊）near the B9 exit of the Metro Ginza line is one of the most famous, often frequented by collectors from Europe and the United States.

- During Christmas, Ginza's streets are illuminated. 126 trees in Ginzanamiki street are decorated with 75 thousand light bulbs, and 76 trees in Hanatsubaki street are decorated 35 thousand light bulbs which are made in the shape of stars. The illuminations are turned on on November 15.

Do
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- Weekends on Chuo-dori are Pedestrians' Paradise (歩行者天国), with the street closed to motor traffic during the day. You can catch street music (nothing too loud) and performance, hawkers selling magical puppets which dance without strings, and thousands of other people to bump into.

- Kabukiza Theater (歌舞伎座 Kabukiza), 4-12-15 Ginza, near the corner of Showa-dori and Harumi-dori (exit the Higashi-Ginza station of the Asakusa and Hibiya subway lines), +81 03-3541-3131, [3]. The best way to see traditional Japanese theater is to go to Kabuki-za for a single act, or hitomaku-mi, which lasts between one and two hours. This costs around ¥800, depending on the length, and seating is on the fourth floor. An English audio guide describes the play while you watch, it is worthwhile at ¥400. You can also see the complete kabuki play, but this is a lengthy affair, and ticket prices can range from ¥3500 to ¥20,000. If it's around mealtime, pick up a bento at one of the local shops and take it in. The Kabukiza will be demolished in April 2010, with a new, rebuilt version to be ready by 2013.

- Movie theaters are plentiful in the Ginza-Yurakucho area, and as many of them are quite old, they're spacious as well. One curiosity is Ginza Cine Pathos, a cluster of small theaters built in a tunnel under Harumi-dori. The movies are run-of-the-mill Hollywood and Japanese, but it's worth a look just to see the tiny bars and eateries crammed in to the space.

Buy
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Ginza is the home of Tokyo's oldest and most prestigious department stores; the most exclusive is probably Wako. And of course Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel and Prada have stores as well, as do most other fashion brands you can think of.

- Tokyo Kyukyodo (東京鳩居堂), +81 03-3571-4429, [4]. Located right across the street from Wako and its landmark clock tower on Ginza's main intersection, this two-floor shop specializes in the traditional Japanese paraphernalia (papers, fans, calligraphy brushes, votive scents etc.). A popular stop for foreigners in search for something exotic and genuine.

- Itoya, +81 03-3216-0041, [5]. Beside the huge Matsuya department store, which is beside the huge Mitsukoshi department store (both being prestigious and expensive), which in turn is across the street from Wako. A 9-floor building packed with all things stationary, from pencils to paintbrushes, you name it. Not exactly discount price considering its location and prestige, but a stationery shop with a collection of this size is hard to come by in Japan.

- For state of art leather bags fit for the imperial family, try Tanizawa down the same avenue.

- There are many famous brand shops in Namiki street, such as Gucci or Coach. If you are low on cash, you can enjoy just looking around the street.

- Yurakucho has branches of two large discount electronics stores, Bic Camera and Sofmap. The former, right next to the Yamanote tracks, is housed in what was until 2001 the famous Sogo department store, which in 1958 spawned a popular hit song, "Yurakucho de Aimasho" ("Let's Meet at Yurakucho"). The big red building housing the latter used to be a theater for the renowned all-female Takarazuka Revue.

- Hakuhinkan Toy Park (博品館), Ginza 8-8-11 (south end of Ginza-dori by the elevated highway), +81 03-3571-8008, [6]. One of the oldest and largest toy stores in Japan (it first opened in 1899), this is the place to go for all the latest cute and strange toys.

- Apple Store Ginza, corner of Chuo-dori and Matsuya-dori, +81 03-5159-8200, [7]. The ultimate in high-tech hipness, where de rigueur neckwear means an iPod, not a black tie. Housed in a giant pearly-white cube, of course.

- Tenshodo (天賞堂), Ginza 4-3-9 (on Harumi-dori), +81 03-3562-0025, [8]. Jeweler and maker of luxury watches. The upper floors, however, are devoted to model trains, many of which match the watches in intricacy and price.

- Mikimoto, +81 03-3535-4611, [9]. The inventors of cultured pearls, has their inaugural shop located right next to Wako.

Eat
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Melon-pan, a unique circular bun flavored with honey melon, has been popular throughout Japan for several years. Most of melon-pan’s surface is of a cookie consitency, and looks like an inverted cut up melon in its skin. Ginza is known as the cradle of Melon pan, though the veracity of the story is uncertain. Hotel Okura and Hotel Seiyou’s bread has become very famous recently. Some shops such as Ginza Kimuraya sell melon-pan in special flavors such as coffee or orange.

Budget
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- Yoshinoya. One of a nationwide chain of rice bowl restaurants, the Ginza location is just north of the Apple Store on Chuo-dori.

- Several cheap restaurants can be found in the alleys northwest of the main intersection (Ginza Yon-chome). They may be difficult to find as they usually have a plain entrance or they are located in an alley between buildings.

Walk along the sides of the Ginza station and around, there are many cheap places to eat and small places have vending machines and are happy to give you English menus and help out with the vending machine- you just have to ask. They are good places to eat and offer good variety around 350-900yen for a good curry or bowl of ramen. Look for the little curtains and the sound of cooking!

Mid-range
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- Mitsukoshi and Matsuya Ginza's. Basement floors offer a variety of foods at a reasonable price. Food ranges from pre-made bentos to bakeries to sandwich shops. You can also get a quick snack at no cost by trying the various samples that are offered. There are no areas to sit and eat and unless you can get a table on Chuo-dori on the weekend, you may have trouble eating your recently purchased meals.

- Nair's, Ginza 4-10-7, 3541-8246, [10]. One of the oldest Indian restaurants in Japan, founded in 1949. The Murghee lunch is a favorite - sit back and let the waiter cut up the chicken for you on your plate.

- Nataraj, 7F,8F,9F (1 min from Ginza st. A2 exit), +81 03-5537-1515, [11]. 11:30AM-11PM, lunch to 2:30PM. A terrific Indian vegetarian restaurant in the midst of Ginza, offering an excellent lunch buffet for ¥1050, and beautiful decor as well.

- Toshiba Building, located next to the Sony Building. In the basement are reasonable restaurants. You can start your day shopping in Yurakucho and stop at this building for lunch before heading to Ginza, or do the opposite.

- Ginza is also within walking distance of Yurakucho (for izakaya and cheap Western restaurants) and Tsukiji (for top-grade sushi).

Splurge
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Ginza hosts many of Japan's most exclusive (and expensive) ryotei, many of which require not just reservations but introductions before they'll grant you the privilege of paying up to ¥50,000 per person (excluding drinks) for your meal. The following options are somewhat more down to earth and take walk-in diners, at least at lunchtime.

- Chikuyōtei (竹葉亭), Ginza 8-14-7 (Higashi-Ginza stn), +81 03-3542-0789. M-Sa 11:30AM-2:30PM, 4:30PM-8PM. The original store of Japan's best known unagi (eel) restaurant chain, serving up luscious kabayaki (grilled eel with sauce) since 1876. Full courses start from ¥7350 and climb up to twice that (reservations required), but a basic unadon with soup is an almost reasonable ¥2,625.

- Ginza Shiseido Parlour, Shiseido Bldg 4-5F, Ginza 8-8-3, and several other nearby locations, +81 03-5537-6241, [12]. Operated by the cosmetics giant Shiseido, the Parlour (founded 1902) is one of the swankiest places to dine. Lunch specials go for ¥4,000, but the most famous item on the menu is the lobster and abalone curry for ¥10,000.

Drink
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Coffee
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- Cafe Doutor, San-ai Bldg 1F, Ginza 5-7, +81 03-5537-8959, [13]. Located in the famous San-ai building, this expensive coffee shop is very popular for "people watching". Unfortunately, the view from the patio is blocked by the police box, but it is still great. Doutor also has various shops along Chuo-dori and it's one of the biggest chains in Tokyo. Mind you, the price of coffee at this particular one is somewhat inflated compared to the more common normal doutors at other places.

- Ginza Cafe Paulista, Nagasaki Center Bldg 1F, Ginza 8-9, +81 03-3572-6160, [14]. One of the oldest cafes in Japan and a favorite of John Lennon and Yoko Ono, the Paulista opened in 1909 with beans imported directly from Santos, Brazil.

- Happy Plaza, San-ai Building, Ginza 5-7. Located on the 9th floor in the cylinder of San-ai building. The location complete with floor to ceiling windows provides a stunning view of Chuo-dori and the Wako and Mitsukoshi stores opposite. In addition to the usual cakes and drinks a light meal is available during lunch hours.

Bars and pubs
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- Three Hundred Bar, two locations: Fazenda Bldg B1F, 5-9-11; and Ginza Dai-Ni Column Bldg B1F, 8-3-12, +81 03-3572-6300, [15]. M-Sa 5PM-2AM, Su/Holiday 5PM-11PM. Both bars have a mixed foreign and Japanese clientele. All drinks are 315 yen.

- Duffy's, Andoshippo Bldg B1F, 5-6-2 (just west of the main Ginza crossing). An Irish pub with an authentic look and feel, as well as ¥500 Guinness during happy hour.

- Icebar Tokyo, 8-5-15 Ginza, +81 03-6228-5022, [16]. Step into an environment where the walls, bar, tables, and even your own personal glass with a vodka cocktail is made out of ice. The bar is kept at -5°C year around and everything inside is made out of crystal clear ice transported down from the Torne River in Jukkasjarvi, Sweden. The bar is operated in 45 minute time slots and you will be given a cape to keep you warm during your visit. But bring a friend, since this bar is tiny and not for meeting locals. Cover ¥3500 with 1 drink, additional drinks ¥1200.

Clubs
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- Sabaku no Bara (Desert Rose), Ginza Namiki-dori Bldg 6F, 2-3-6, +81 03-5159-7200 (info@sabakunobara.jp), [17]. Su-Tu 6PM-midnight, W-Th 6PM-3AM, Fr-Sa 6PM-5AM. Upscale club with an expensive cover charge and strict dress code, but after all it is Ginza. The clientele is older and more affluent, and not as rowdy as the crowd you will find in Roppongi.

Sleep
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Accommodation in Ginza itself is limited and expensive. You can shave a fair bit off the price by heading around the corner to Shimbashi, which is a major train hub and has lots of serviceable mid-range and capsule hotels.

Budget
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- Ginza Kokusai Hotel, 8-7-13 Ginza Chuo-ku (use the JR Yamanote Line and the Ginza Subway Line, a 3 or 4 minute walk from the Shimbashi station), +81 03-3574-1121 (fax: +81 03-3289-0478), [18]. checkin: 1PM; checkout: 11AM.

Mid range
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- Hotel Monterey Ginza, 2-10-2 Ginza, +81 03-3544-7111. This hotel, owned by a Japanese businesswoman, caters to women. Located in the heart of the Ginza district, the Monterey offers comfortable rooms and has a friendly front desk staff. Across the street is one of the many AM/PM convenience stores where a traveler may purchase needed items 24 hrs a day.

- Mercure Hotel Ginza, 2-9-4 Ginza, +81 03-43351111, [19]. checkin: 2 PM; checkout: 11 AM. Modern 4-star hotel by the Mercure chain. Though the rooms are quite small, the price in this area can't be beaten. 3min walk to the famous Luis Vuitton boutique on Ginza street. around ¥12,000 per night.

Splurge
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- Mandarin Oriental. This exclusive hotel has fabulous rooms, a world class spa and a Michelin 1 Star Signature Restaurant. The hotel also has fitness facilities that rival anything in Tokyo with views to match.

- Royal Park Hotel in Tokyo, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi Kakigara-cho, +81 03-3667-1111, [20]. Five star accommodation conveniently located in central Tokyo, ideal for business travelers and holiday makers. Easy accessible from Tokyo's Airport, Royal Park Hotel in Tokyo stands next door to the TCAT (Tokyo City Air Terminal) from where buses leave and arrive several times every hour to Narita International Airport.

Get out
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- Tokyo Station - the Maranouchi and Yaesu districts around Tokyo Station are a short 20 minute walk north of Ginza's center

- Yurakucho - west of Ginza, this area houses a mix of commercial and reasonable shopping compared to Ginza's high end areas

- Hama-Rikyu Detached Palace Garden - south of the Ginza, these former Imperial pleasure gardens are an oasis of tranquility in a hectic city. Here you can catch a tour boat which will take you up the Samida River to Asakusa. From the river, much of the Tokyo skyline is visible.

- Tsukiji - south-east of Ginza, this area is famous for its fish and vegetable market - be aware that restaurants inside the market are generally busy and expensive while small eateries outside the market are more affordable and nearly as fresh.

- Hibiya Park - just west of Ginza past the Sony Building and elevated highway, this park contains many different European styles. In May/June, the azaleas are in bloom.

- Imperial Palace - just north of Hibiya Park, making it an easy walk from Ginza. Enjoy the open parks and venture a little into the public park area.

District Tsukiji Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

Understand
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While the name literally means "Center", this district loses out in prestige (if only very slightly) to neighboring Chiyoda, home to the Emperor among others. Still, the Ginza is generally reckoned to have the most expensive real estate on earth and there are plenty of bright lights... and a famous fish market too.

Get in
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The western edge of Chuo starts on the Yaesu (east) side of Tokyo Station, and if your legs are feeling up to it, you can get pretty much anywhere worth seeing within a 45-minute walk. Otherwise, take the subway.

See
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- Tsukiji Fish Market (築地市場 Tsukiji-shijō), 5-2-1 Tsukiji (Tsukijishijo Station, Toei Oedo Subway), +81 03-3542-1111, [2]. Outer Market 5 AM-1 PM, Wholesale Market 9 AM-1 PM, Tuna Auction 5 AM-6:15 AM; closed Sundays, holidays, and the second and fourth Wednesdays of each month. More properly the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market, the famous market is worth a visit for 1600 stalls of bizarre sea creatures, including large blue fin tuna, live shell fish, deep sea crabs, eels and salmon. As you might expect everything is covered in slippery sea water, so choose footwear accordingly. To avoid obstructing traffic, you should not bring large bags or suitcases. Also, watch out for water (often with blood) splashing from containers being moved. It is very busy but the locals don't mind visitors and photographs (no flash), as long as you stay out of the way and don't get in the way of business. Get here as early as possible, which means a taxi if you want to see the auctions, but much cheaper and quite acceptable alternative is to take the first subway in the morning around 6. Hibiya line Tsukiji station is a short walk away, while O-Edo line Tsukiji-shijo drops you right next to the action. While the market stays open until 1PM, the action drops off after 8AM and many shops close after 10AM or so. Note that the wholesale market inside Tsukiji is off-limits to visitors until after 9 AM, although visitors are welcome to visit the outside market when it opens from 5 AM. Free.

NOTE regarding the Tuna Auction: Following the March 11th Tohoku Earthquake and Tsunami, The tuna auction is off limits until further notice, however other parts of the market will be open during this time, as described above.

The famous early morning tuna auctions are open to tourists with restrictions, since visitors to the tuna auction have disrupted proceedings in the past. There is a maximum limit of 140 visitors to the tuna auction every day that it is held. Viewing tickets are issued on a first come, first serve basis beginning at 4:30 AM at the market's Fish Information Center, located next to the Kachidoki entrance. The first 70 ticket holders are able to view the auction from 5 AM until 5:40 AM, while the other 70 ticket holders can view the remainder of the auction from 5:40 AM until 6:15 AM. Flash photography inside the auction area is prohibited.

It is important to get to Tsukiji as early as possible, especially on busy days, so as not to get shut out. Note that access to the Tuna Auction area may still be off-limits on some dates, especially during busy times of the year.

- Tsukiji Hongwanji, 3-15-1 Tsukiji (accessible from Tsukiji (Hibiya Line) or Tsukiji-shijo (Oedo Line)), +81 03-3541-1131, [3]. A Jodo Shinshu temple just a few blocks away from the fish market, worth seeing because of its unique, South Asian-inspired architecture. Buddhist services are held in English on Saturday evenings.

- Tokyo Stock Exchange, 2-1 Nihombashi Kabutocho (accessible from Kayabacho (Tozai and Hibiya Lines) or Nihombashi (Asakusa Line)), +81 03-3665-1881, [4]. Tokyo's stock exchange, while one of the largest in the world by capitalization, is now entirely automated, and the tiny building it resides in is mostly for show, featuring a small museum, exhibition hall, and broadcasting facilities.

- Hama-rikyu Gardens (浜離宮恩賜庭園), 1-1 Hama-rikyu Teien (7 min walk from Shinodome, Tsukiji-shijo or Yurikamome subway stations, 10 min. walk from JR Shimbashi station), +81 03-3541-0200. Originally built by 17th-century shoguns for their private enjoyment, Hama-rikyu is now a public walking garden with an all-season range of flowers and flowering trees. The highlight is the tea house, picturesquely set on a small island in the middle of a pond, where green tea and sweets are available for ¥500. The garden is located next to Tsukiji fish market. A boat which runs up the Sumida River to Asakusa departs from inside the park. Park admission ¥300 (age 65+ ¥150, primary school children free).

Do
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- Tokyo Kūa, right under the Yaesu entrance to Tokyo Station, [5]. Daily 6AM-11PM. The self-proclaimed first sauna and spa in Japan, still going strong. Open for men only. Entry ¥2300.

Buy
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The Ginza, covered in its own article, is one of the world's most famous (and most expensive) shopping districts.

Eat
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Budget
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Past Tsukiji on Harumi-dori is the island neighborhood of Tsukishima (月島, "Moon Island"), known mainly for its many restaurants serving monja-yaki (もんじゃ妬き). It's like okonomiyaki, but the dough is much more runny and the ingredients are finely chopped, leading to what looks like a puddle of vomit. Just remember the essentials: you form the shredded cabbage into a ring on the griddle and pour the leftover liquid in the middle, and you use the tiny spatulas to press the mixed batter onto the griddle until it sizzles, then eat it right off the spatula. (Most shop staff will be more than happy to assist.) Sounds strange, doesn't it? It is. To get here, take the Yurakucho/O-Edo Line to Tsukishima station, and you'll find "Monja Town" [6] aka Nishinaka-dori (西仲道り) extending out from near exit 7, with no less than 70 restaurants crammed into a couple of city blocks.

- Oshio Honten (おしお本店), Tsukishima 3-17-10, 03-3531-7423, [7]. The original shop of one of the better-known chains here, with half a dozen restaurants. Try the mentaiko-shiso monja with cod roe and perilla, which tastes oh so much better than it looks. Monjas from ¥1000 up (serves two).

The northern section of Tsukishima is named Tsukudajima (佃島), and is the origin of tsukudani　(佃煮), a way of preserving food by simmering it in a sticky soy and sugar sauce. This has fallen out of style in most of Japan but is still commonly available here. Seafood, seaweed (konbu) and various vegetables are the most common ingredients, but if you're looking for something more interesting, try inago (いなご) tsukudani, made from locusts!

- Yoshinoya Tsukiji Store No. 1 (吉野家築地一号店 Yoshinoya Tsukiji Ichigō-ten), Tsukiji 5-2-1 (Central Wholesale Market, Food C), [8]. Beef bowl fans come here in droves to make a pilgrimage to Yoshinoya's original store, which dates back to 1926. (Yoshinoya actually opened in Nihombashi around 1899, but along with the entire fish market, they moved to Tsukiji after the Great Kanto Earthquake.) The interior is done up in old Edo style, looking more like an upmarket sushi shop than fast food, and the menu is limited to one main dish only: beef bowl (牛丼 gyūdon) for ¥380 yen, plus optional sides like egg, miso, pickles etc. Opening hours are the same as the Tsukiji Market, and you'll probably need to ask for directions to find it in the vast bowels of the market.

Mid-range
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Try a sushi breakfast at Tsukiji. The fish is guaranteed to be as fresh as possible and the prices, while not cheap, are surprisingly affordable given the extraordinary quality - figure on ¥2000-¥3000 for an omakase set of whatever is good today. For comparison, a meal of a similar caliber in the Ginza would easily cost over ¥10,000.

Tsukiji's restaurants can be found in alleys of Building 6, reached by walking in from the main entrance and turning right at the central square. The following two sushi joints are very popular, so be prepared to queue on weekends (an hour's wait is typical) unless you get there very early. Smaller groups may be served before larger ones. Both make a point of serving only fresh fish that has never been frozen.

- Daiwa Sushi (大和寿司), 03-3547-6807, [9]. 5:30AM-1:30PM. The larger of the two, so the queue moves faster. The standard omakase course is ¥3500 (7 pieces & 1 roll), and a cheaper ¥2100 version also available. Famous for their meltingly soft anago (conger eel).

- Sushidai (寿司大), 03-3547-6797, [10]. 5AM-2PM. ¥3900 for day's set (10 pieces & 1 roll), of which you get to choose the last piece. They also have a cheaper ¥2500 version.

Quite a few other sushi places can be found in the streets outside the market.

- Sushizanmai (すしざんまい), 11-9 Tsukiji (near Shin-Ohashi-dori/Harumi-dori crossing), [11]. The self-proclaimed "King Of Tuna", this is now a large chain but they originate from here in Tsukiji, where they have no less than 7 locations and the three-story Honten is open 24 hours. Prices are per roll and range from ¥100-500, or order a set meal for ¥3000. They have an excellent English menu.

Drink
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The Ginza has a large array of drinking establishments, most of which are also extremely expensive. This is where the Japanese horror stories of $100 for a beer originate from. Choose carefully, or head elsewhere.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Sumisho Hotel, 9-14 Nihonbashi Kobunacho, +81 03-3661-4603 (fax: 03-3661-4639), [12]. A ryokan style hotel in walking distance from Tokyo Station, Japanese style rooms and big traditional bath available. Singles start at ¥7000, doubles at ¥11,000.

Mid-range
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- Hotel Kazusaya (かずさや), 4-7-15 Nihombashi-Honcho (near Shin-Nihombashi Station, Sobu Line), +81 03-3241-1045 (web@h-kazusaya.co.jp), [13]. Singles ¥8000-9000, doubles ¥14,700.

- Tokyu Stay Nihombashi, 4-7-9 Nihombashi-Honcho, +81 03-3231-0109 (fax: +81 03-3231-0112), [14]. Slight discounts are offered for extended stays. Part of the Tokyu Stay chain, these hotels are popular with business travelers. The small kitchenettes, washer/dryers, and free LAN access in all rooms makes these a good value. Singles start at ¥9,450, twin rooms ¥17,850.

- Tokyu Stay Higashi Ginza, Tsukiji 4-11-5, +81 03-5551-0109, [15]. Part of the Tokyu Stay chain. Free internet access, microwave, washer-dryer, and kitchenette in each room. Good staff, views of nearby temple. Located very close to Tsukiji fish market, avoiding an early morning taxi ride. Singles from ¥9400, twins from ¥14,700 per night, breakfast included. Discounts for extended stays..

Splurge
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- Royal Park Hotel, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi-Kakigara-cho, +81 03-3667-1111, [16]. Five-star luxury hotel, adjacent to Tokyo City Air Terminal (TCAT) via skybridge. Suitengumae Subway Station is underneath the hotel.

District Minato Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Splurge

• Sleep

Splurge

• Contact

Understand
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Minato is a fairly sprawling ward with no single center. The following parts of Minato have their own articles:

- Akasaka - a business district and nightlife area near the government center

- Odaiba - the Tokyo of the future built on reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay

- Roppongi - nightlife central for Tokyo's foreign population

- Shiodome - a still-growing cluster of brand new skyscrapers

- Shinbashi - an older business and commercial district

Get in
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- Hamamatsuchō (浜松町), terminus of the Tokyo Monorail from Haneda Airport; the closest station on the Yamanote to both Tokyo Tower (10 min. walk) and Roppongi (25 min. walk).

See
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- Tokyo Tower (東京タワー Tōkyō Tawā), (the nearest station is Akabanebashi (5 min walk) although Hamamatsucho and Daimon are accessible through several lines and only slightly farther away), [2]. 9AM-10PM daily. Tokyo's largest tourist trap, this was a newly re-industrialized Japan's 1958 answer to Paris's Eiffel Tower — a bit more modern-looking and 9 meters taller. Entry to the Main Observatory (150m) is ¥820, while ascending to the Special Observatory (250m) is an extra ¥600. If you've still got money in your pockets, you can burn it by visiting the Wax Museum (¥870), the Mysterious Walking Zone (¥410) or the Trick Art Gallery (¥400). Tip: you'll get better views from higher up for free if you visit Shinjuku's Metropolitan Government Building observatory instead. Another tip: To get a good view of, and picture with, the tower, try the courtyard in front of Zojoji (nearby), or the second-floor deck outside the Mori Tower at Roppongi Hills (farther away but more panoramic).

- Sengaku-ji Temple (泉岳寺), Takanawa 2-11-1 (Toei Asakusa Line Sengakuji station exit A2), [3]. Not all that much to look at, but the fascinating history makes up for it: this is where the famous 47 rōnin of the true story that became the Kabuki epic Chūshingura committed ritual suicide after avenging their master's death. The graves are a popular site of pilgrimage to this day.

- Zōjō-ji Temple (増上寺), Shibakoen 4-7-35 (Toei Mita Line Onarimon station), [4]. This grand old temple is the headquarters of the Jōdō Shinshu sect and houses the graves of 6 of the Tokugawa shoguns, but is a little off the beaten track and is rarely visited by tourists. Particularly beautiful around cherry blossom time.

- Capsule Tower. A famous building of Kisho Kurokawa, however this past year it was torn down.

- Pokemon Center Tokyo. One of 6 stores dedicated to the cute poplular Pokemon characters. The Tokyo store is the flagship store, and is very busy at weekends.

Do
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- Tokyo Water Cruise, [5]. Plies the Sumida River and Tokyo Bay between Hamamatsucho, Odaiba, Asakusa and other points. Fares vary depending on routing.

Buy
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- Tokyo HackerSpace, Shirokanedai 5-11, [6]. Tu 7:30-9PM. Community space for working on projects. The Tuesday evening meeting is open. Hackers, tinkerers, and makers passing through town might want to drop by then. Many events and classes held at other times, some are kid-friendly. Check website for detailed schedule.

Eat
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Splurge
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- Petit Point, 4-2-48, Minami-Azabu (3 min south of Hiroo station), +81 03-3440-3667, [7]. Superbly prepared French cuisine. Expect to pay about ¥15,000 for a full dinner.

Sleep
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Splurge
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- Hotel Okura, 2-10-4 Toranomon, +81 03-3582-0111 (fax: +81 03-3582-3707), [8]. One of the Tokyo's grandest hotels. Rack rates begin at ¥36,750 for singles, ¥46,200 for doubles.

Contact
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District Akasaka Table of Contents

• Get in

By train

By bus

• See

Eat & Drink

• Sleep

Get in
toc

By train
toc

Akasaka-Mitsuke station on the Metro Ginza and Marunouchi subway lines is at the northeastern edge of Akasaka. The station is connected by a handy, if rather long, tunnel to Nagatacho station on the Namboku, Hanzomon and Yurakucho lines. Tameike-Sanno (Namboku/Ginza) is also in the area and a good access point for Hitotsugi-dori, the main thoroughfare through the Akasaka district.

Travelers from Narita Airport can take the Keisei Skyliner to Ueno, then transfer to the Ginza subway line (¥2,110, 90 min.), or add 15 minutes but lower the cost to ¥1,190 by taking the limited express instead of the Skyliner. The Narita Express isn't cost-effective unless you hold a rail pass, in which case you can travel to Tokyo Station and change for the Marunouchi line (85 min. total), paying only the subway fare of ¥160. Haneda Airport passengers can take the Keikyu line to Shimbashi, changing there for the Ginza line (¥720, 40 min.).

By bus
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The Airport Limousine Bus makes convenient hourly runs (sometimes twice an hour) between Narita and major hotels in Akasaka (¥3,000, approx. 80-120 minutes).

See
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In 2007, Akasaka Sacas opened to great fanfare. Much like the nearby competing Roppongi Hills or Tokyo Midtown, Akasaka Sacas is made up of Akasaka Biz Tower, chock-full of eateries and several shops, Akasaka BLITZ and ACT Theatre, and of course the iconic TBS (Tokyo Broadcasting System) building.

Probably the only actual sight in Akasaka is the Hie Shrine (日枝神社), located atop a little hill at the edge of the area. Reached by a steep flight of stairs under a veritable tunnel of orange torii, the shrine grounds are an oasis of tranquility in the middle of Tokyo and, in good weather, a popular place for a lunchtime picnic.

Once a year, the shrine holds the rather modest Sanno Matsuri (山王祭) festival, featuring the usual panoply of music, dancing, yatai stalls and sake.

Eat & Drink
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At night corporate Akasaka loosens its tie and comes to life: the blocks bounded by Sotobori-dori (外堀通り) and Hitotsugi-dori (一ッ木通り) are packed full of expensive restaurants and nightclubs, second only to the Ginza in swankiness. Both Japanese and international cuisine are very well represented, with places like Tenichi for tempura and Shabuzen for shabu-shabu, and others representing Indonesian, French, Mexican, Russian, Indian, Italian cuisines... If you name it, you'll probably find it.

Most restaurants cater mostly to the expense account set and are correspondingly expensive at dinner time (¥10000 and up is not uncommon). The best deals in Akasaka are therefore at lunch, since no matter how high their prices go in the evening, all these restaurants offer excellent lunch menus for ¥1000 or so.

- Ninja Akasaka, 2-14-3 Nagata-cho, Akasaka Tokyu Hotel Plaza 1F, [1]. The entrance is a little difficult to find, but what do you expect from a restaurant designed like a hidden ninja fortress? Navigate through dark corridors, over bridges and trap doors to your hidden room, where ninja waiters attend to your needs while performing tricks and illusions. The food is delicious as well as being presented in unique ways that are sure to entertain. Pre-set menus (usually 7-10 courses) run anywhere from ¥7,000 up to ¥20,000, but items can also be ordered a-la-carte. Rated one of the must-see dining experiences in Tokyo by several websites.

Sleep
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Akasaka's hotels are all in the business/luxury category and charge a bit of a premium for their location.

- Hotel New Otani, [2]. The flagship of the New Otani chain, worth a visit just for the gorgeous gardens alone. It's a bit of a hike to the nearest subway station though. Rack rates for singles at ¥26,500 and up.

- Akasaka Prince Hotel, (right next to Hie Shrine), [3]. A Tokyo institution, but getting a bit old. Singles start at ¥19,000.

- ANA Hotel Tokyo, (located between the Tameike-Sanno subway station and the Roppongi Ichome station), [4]. An international hotel and all staff can speak English. The rooms are a decent size compared to most American hotels. There is also a limousine bus connecting the ANA Hotel to Narita Airport - it takes approximately two hours and is available to both guests of the hotel and people with other accommodations. Prices start from approximately ¥20,000 per night.

District Shinbashi Table of Contents

• Get in

By train

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Mid-range

Splurge

• Get out

Get in
toc

By train
toc

Shimbashi Station is on the JR Yamanote, Keihin-Tōhoku, Yokosuka, and Tokaido Lines. It is also a connection point to the Toei Asakusa subway line for Haneda Airport (Keikyu through trains, ¥610, 30 min.), plus the Ginza subway line and the Yurikamome line to Odaiba. The multitude of lines makes it easy to reach from Narita Airport via the Keisei Skyliner and Yamanote lines (Yamanote line, change at Nippori, ¥2,080, 75 min.), Keisei limited express and Asakusa lines (Toei Asakusa line, change at Aoto, ¥1,100, 90 min.) or Narita Express and Yokosuka lines (change at Tokyo, ¥2,910, 75 min.).

Nearby Hamamatsucho station connects directly to Haneda Airport (¥470) via the Tokyo Monorail.

Buy
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- Sake Plaza, 1-1-21 Nishi-Shinbashi (10 min from Shimbashi station), 03-3519-2091, [1]. M-F 10AM-6PM, closed weekends and holidays. This four-story complex run by the Central Brewers' Union sells anything and everything related to sake, including cups, glasses, books, hydrometers and, of course, the nectar itself. ¥315/515 gets you a taste of 3/5 sakes that change daily.

Eat
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The area around Shinbashi and Yurakucho is, thanks to its hordes of office workers, full of lunchtime bargains. You can easily get a filling teishoku lunch for under ¥700.

Budget
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- The Shinbashi area has outlets of most major fast food chains:

- Tenya (てんや). Shinbashi 2-15-12 (JR Shimbashi, Karasumori exit). An outlet of everybody's favorite fast-food tempura chain, with tempura bowls starting from ¥500.

- Yoshinoya, the Japanese fast-food chain has several (at least two) restaurants close to the station, and Matsuya also has two restaurants near Shinbashi; get a bowl of rice and meat for ¥300-500. Very crowded at lunch-time (around 1pm).

- The New Shinbashi Building, the triangular (and certainly not new-looking) building on the west side of JR Shimbashi station, has a multitude of dark, smoky, cramped izakayas in its basement levels. Not recommended if you don't like the smell of broiled fish.

Mid-range
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- Shabu-raku-tei (しゃぶ楽亭), (Shinbashi 3-5-11, 4 min from JR station). In the evening it's a medium-priced shabu-shabu joint, but you can get a huge lunch for only ¥1000 -- knocked down to a ridiculously low ¥800 on Mondays.

- Don Blanco, Shimbashi 3-18-7, 3F (2 min southwest of JR station), +81 03-5401-2066, [2]. Tucked away among Korean hostess bars, a cozy joint with some of the most authentic Mexican food you're likely to find in Japan -- the owner makes regular trips to Mexico. Excellent selection of tequilas, home-made tortillas, and lucha libre wrestling masks for guests.

Splurge
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- Daigo (醍醐), 2-3-1 Atago (nearest station Onarimon), +81 03-3431-0811, [3]. The name means "essence of milk", a reference to the Buddha's highest teachings, and this restaurant aims for the highest standards of shōjin-ryori (精進料理), the purely vegetarian version of Japan's refined kaiseki cuisine. Located within the grounds of the Seishōji temple, all meals here are elaborate, ten-course affairs served in private rooms with a view of the lovely temple garden. With dinner courses priced at ¥15,000-19,000 per person (plus drinks, tax and service), the experience doesn't come cheap, but it just might be worth it for an unforgettable occasion — and this is still only a third of what Ginza's kaiseki joints charge. Reservations obligatory.

Drink
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A large number of drinking establishments, some distinctly dodged, can be found around JR Shinbashi station.

- Kagaya, Hanasada Building B1F, 2-15-12 Shinbashi, +81 3-3591-2347, [4]. 6pm-late. Famously loopy bar run by performance artist Mark Kagaya. Expect no menu, staff in frog costumes and the unexpected.

Sleep
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Mid-range
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- Check In Shinbashi, 2-15-17 Shinbashi (3 min from JR Shimbashi Karasumori exit), +81 03-3501-5100, [5]. Cramped but quite tolerable and fully-equipped rooms. Free LAN in every room. Singles from ¥7500, doubles from ¥10000 (weekend rates, weekdays are slightly higher).

- Tokyu Stay Shinbashi, 6-20-1 Shinbashi, +81 03-54011109 (fax: +81 03-5401-1107), [6]. Part of the Tokyu Stay chain, these hotels are popular with business travelers. The small kitchenettes, washer/dryers, and free LAN access in all rooms makes these good value. Singles start at ¥9,450, doubles at ¥17,850 per night. Slight discounts are offered for extended stays.

- Shiba Park Hotel, 1-5-10 Shiba-koen (8 min from JR Hamamatsucho Station, 4 min from Daimon Station, 2 min from Onarimon Station), +81 03-3433-4141, [7].

- Shinbashi Atagoyama Tokyu Inn, 1-6-6, Atago (7 min from Toranomon station, 7 min from Kamiyacho station, 7 min from Onarimon station), +81 03-3431-0109, [8].

Splurge
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- Designer Park Hotel, Shiodome Media Tower, 1-7-1 Higashi Shimbashi, Minato-ku, +81 03-6252-1111 (info@parkhoteltokyo.com, fax: +81 03-6252-1001), [9]. (47.37854477,8.52059215)

Get out
toc

Shinbashi is right next to the Shiodome high-rise area, and a short taxi ride (or moderate walk) away from Tsukiji, where you can enjoy some of the best sushi in Tokyo.

District Roppongi Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

Bars

Clubs

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Stay safe

• Get out

Get in
toc

To get to Roppongi, take the Hibiya/O-Edo subway to Roppongi (H04/E23). Alternatively, walk from Tameike-Sanno (G06), Roppongi-Itchome (N05), or Azabu-juban (N04/E22).

If you walk west under the highway long enough (half an hour plus), you'll eventually end up in Shibuya; following the highway east for about as long will take you to the Diet Building and Imperial Palace. In daytime, you can also take frequent buses along Roppongi-dori to speed your way.

See
toc

- Roppongi Crossing. a big intersection of Roppongi-dōri (六本木通り), under the elevated highway, and Gaien-higashi-dōri (外苑東通り) is where everything starts.

- Roppongi Hills (六本木ヒルズ), 6-10-1 Roppongi (Hibiya line, Roppongi station, exit 1C; Oedo line, Roppongi station, exit 3), +81 03-6406-6000, [1]. Roppongi Hills is an expansive shopping and entertainment complex, sleek and modern. It opened with much fanfare and remains popular. It has a number of attractions centered around the 53-story Mori Tower.

- Tokyo City View, Mori Tower, 52F, 03-6406-6652, [2]. 9AM-midnight. This viewing deck gives you a 360º view of the city from 250 meters above sea level. Ticket includes admission to the Mori Art Museum.

- Mori Art Museum, Mori Tower, 53F, +81 03-5777-8600, [3]. W-M 10AM-10PM, until 5PM on Tu. This impressive art gallery hosts special exhibitions. The museum ticket includes admission to Tokyo City View. The Mori Arts Center Gallery [4] adjacent to the Mori Art Museum requires separate admission (prices vary), not included with the Tokyo City View / Mori Art Museum ticket.

- Mori Urban Institute for the Future, Mori Tower, 50F, 03-6406-6636, [5]. M-Th 10AM-8PM, until 10PM F-Su and holidays.

- Mouri Garden. This garden has a couple of wild duck families.

- Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-1 Akasaka (Roppongi station, exit 4A, 8; Nogisaka station, exit 3), [6]. Opened in April 2007, this competitor to the Hills boasts Tokyo's tallest tower, a Ritz-Carlton and yet more endless acres of shopping and eating. Still, Midtown favors wood paneling and greenery over raw concrete and feels a little more human than the Hills do.

- 21_21 Design Sight, Midtown Hinokicho Park, [7]. Changing exhibitions devoted to the latest and greatest in Japanese design.

- Fujifilm Square, Midtown West, [8]. Fujifilm's exhibition space for the latest and greatest in photography. Exhibits are usually free and well worth a visit.

- Suntory Museum of Art, Midtown Garden, [9]. Hosts changing art exhibitions.

- National Art Center Tokyo, 7-22-2 Roppongi (Nogizaka stn, exit 6), [10]. W-M 10AM-6PM. Tokyo's latest and greatest art museum, housed in an undulating wave-shaped building designed by Kisho Kurokawa and devoted entirely to changing exhibitions. Entry fees vary by exhibition.

Do
toc

- Virgin Toho Cinemas, +81 03-5775-6090, [11]. If you are going to put down the going rate of nearly ¥1800 for a movie in Tokyo, this is the place to do it. The nine-screen cinema has futuristic decor, THX and reserved seating. This theater is open all night, so you can catch a movie if you are staying out late and are planning to catch the morning train.

- Azabu Onsen, Azabujuban 1-5-22 (between Roppongi Hills and Azabu-Juban Station; closest station is Azabu-Juban (Namboku Line and Toei Oedo Line)). Used to be one of the few natural onsen (hot springs) in central Tokyo. The lower floor, Koshinoyu, was a cheap (¥430), ultra-traditional sento bathhouse, while the upper level contained a more expensive bathing complex with saunas and relaxation rooms (¥1260 before 6PM, ¥940 until close). Unfortunately, this place has closed down "due to the old age of the premises and of the owners, unable to find a heir to the business".

- Nagomi Spa and Fitness, Grand Hyatt Tokyo Hotel, 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-Ku, +81 3 4333 1234 (reservation@tyogh.com), [12].

Buy
toc

- In the first several floors of Mori Tower and the adjoining buildings, there are heaps of shopping spots, nearly all are upscale. Similarly, most of the restaurants have a lot of style, and with prices to match.

- Azabu-Juban is a quieter commercial district to the southeast of Roppongi Hills, and a good place to spend a lazier afternoon browsing through shops and enjoying the local cafés. The surrounding residential area is popular among professional expats, so expect to see many international families as you walk through.

Eat
toc

Not surprisingly, Roppongi has lots of international restaurants.

Below budget? There are several supermarkets in the area:

- Precce Premium, Tokyo Midtown basement. A little pricey, some foreign stuff.

- Roppongi Marche, near Roppongi Crossing. Still a little pricey, some occasional discounts.

- Food Magazine, near Roppongi Hills, a little past Tsutaya Roppongi. Open 24 hours. Decent.

- Global Market, Azabu-Juban shopping street. Open 24 hours. Decent.

- National Azabu Supermarket, 5-2,4 Chome Minami Azabu (more in the direction of Hiroo, turning left at the end of TV Asahi Dori, the side w/o Tsutaya), 03-3442-3186. 9:00 ~ 20:00. Upscale supermarket catering to the expat/diplomat community, with valet parking and good selection of local and unique imported goods. Second floor bookstore & kitchenware. There is also a Baskin Robbins & Flower shop located on the same property. Reasonable.

- Nissin, 2-34-2 Higashi-Azabu (Ten minute walk from Roppongi Hills, or exit 3 of Azabu Juban station), [13]. Great international selection, but pricey

Budget
toc

Some of the best cheap places to eat in high-rent Roppongi are the numerous fast-food joints', most of which keep late hours to cater to the party crowd.

- Turkish doner kebab vans on the street at night are really popular for people getting out of clubs.

- Numerous fast-food chains are available, including Subway, McDonald's, and SoupStock.

- Chinese Cafe 8. Famous. That or slightly popular with after hours people. 24 hours. There's also a kick-ass deal with Peking duck that comes with all you can eat rice and complimentary soup. The decor is out of this world. There's mini appetizer dishes that are ¥200-300. At the end of TV Asahi-dori (the end w/o Tsutaya Roppongi).

- Manga Hiroba, [14]. Open 24 hours. Over 100 stations - in Japanese or English. The first hour is ¥380, each half hour after that is ¥150 per person. There is a free drink bar with a selection of hot drinks, sodas, slushy drinks and water. Light meals cost ¥260-700. Friendly, service-oriented staff with limited English. Japanese TV, DVD and books all available as well. Comfy leather seats for reading, Internet or sleeping after the subway stops running.

- Yoshinoya, two locations in Roppongi: one of them is diagonally across the street (you have to walk under the elevated highway) from the infamous Almond. Yoshinoya makes it's infamous beef bowls and other interesting budget cuisine for anyone that can say "oomori," if you want a large serving of beef bowl or other menu. For great Ramen, one of the most revered ramen shops in Tokyo is right under the Yoshinoya. Try the Tokyo style Ramen and the gyoza.

Mid-range
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- Roppongi Hills has an extensive selection of midrange-to-expensive restaurants. A few branches of famous chains here, all offering set meals in the ¥1500 range, include:

- Ginza's Katsukobo Wakō (かつ工房和幸) for tonkatsu (pork cutlets)

- Sugamo's Konaya (古奈屋) for curry udon

- Akasaka's Kushinobō (串の坊) for kushiyaki (deep-fried skewers)

- Bangkok, 3-8-8, Woo Bldg, 2F. A lunchtime legend. Pad thai special on thursdays (¥980) is divine.

- Diya Indian Restaurant, Roppongi Hills B1. 11AM-10PM daily. Indian restaurant servicing authentic fare of exceptional quality. Start with the tender Tandoori chicken and move on to the biryani and the spicy curries. Good service, great food, mid-range prices. ¥4000 per person on sharing basis gets you a full meal.

- Gonpachi (権八), Nishi-Azabu 1-13-11 (Nishi-Azabu crossing, 5 min. from Roppongi station), +81 03-5771-0170, [15]. This lively and popular izakaya, with a spectacular spacious interior and high-profile location, has served luminaries such as George W. Bush and former Prime Minister Koizumi, and was the model for the battle scene in Tarantino's "Kill Bill". (The owner turned down the director's request to use the place itself.) Yet prices are quite reasonable given this notoriety, with all-you-can-drink deals from ¥1500, noodles and rice dishes for under ¥1000 and 6-course menus from ¥3500. Make reservations and expect to see a lot of foreign visitors.

- Hutong of Beijing, 5-10-19 (across the street from the Roppongi Hills Tsutaya). Incredible authenticity, very reasonable prices, a lot of variety. Specializes in duck.

- Fifty Seven, B1f 4-2-35 Roppongi, Minato-Ku, 0357757857, [16]. 19.00-02.00. Extensive grill and steak Menu along with a new world wine list. Popular amongst the hip and trendy crowd for great service as well as the Japanese crowd wanting to experience the New York experience. From ¥800 for the bar food menu to ¥4,200 for the Australian Filet..

- Raj Mahal, 7-13-2, Urban Bldg, 4F (across the street from Midtown). Arguably the best Indian restaurant in the city. Unbeatable lunch deal. (As of April 2011, appears to be closed. I found a nightclub in its place.)

- Tapeo: Bar de Espana, Roppongi Hills Metrohat B2, 6-4-1, +81 03-5412-2125. 11AM-11PM everyday. Cute tapas bar serving a good range of small plates as well as five or six main dishes. Spanish wines, sherry and a well-made sangria are the highlights of the drink list. The half roast chicken is excellent but the paella can be a little dry. There's plenty of seating but customers needing to use the restroom must leave the bar and wander through the corridors to find a public toilet. Tapas ¥500, main ¥800-1400.

- Tony Roma's, 5-4-20 Roppongi (next to Hard Rock Cafe), +81 03-3408-2748. Step out of Japan and into the United States; the bilingual staff and English-only menu might make you forget you are in Tokyo. The restaurant features their trademark ribs, worth the price which approaches ¥2000. The Texas Mud Pie is the cure for tiny Japanese desserts.

- Worldstar Cafe, 5-1-3 Roppongi, B1F Goto Bldg, [17]. 11AM-8AM. Recently popular with business people or singles during lunchtime. Meal sets are ¥980-1200, comes w/ main, salad, drink; main being spaghetti, Japn, etc. Useful for a late night spot to hang around, since they're open until 6AM.

Splurge
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- Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Roppongi Hills Hillside 2F, 6-10-1 Roppongi, +81 03-5772-7500, [18]. 11AM-10PM. The first overseas venture of the eponymous Paris-based Michelin-starred chef. Each dish is a work of art almost as breathtaking as the price tag, as courses cost ¥2900-¥12,800 — still a steal by Tokyo gourmet standards. No reservations are accepted, so prepare to queue.

- Fukuzushi, 5-7-8, Roppongi (behind Hard Rock Cafe), +81 03-3402-4116. 11:30AM-2PM, 5:30PM-11PM. Persistently a contender in the expat community's "where to get the best sushi" debate. Expect no less than ¥30000 for 2 people with light drinking. Set menus are available, and their ¥3000 lunch set is excellent. Dress code: No sleeveless for men.

- Ristorante da Nino, Grande Maison Nogizaka 1F, 1-15-19 Minami Aoyama, +81 03-3401-9466, [19]. M-Sa 11:30-2PM (LO) and 6PM-11PM (LO). Within easy walking distance from both Tokyo Midtown and Roppongi crossing, owner chef Antonino Lentini offers finest sicilian dishes which in freshness are second to none. Good wine selection. Weekday lunch courses from ¥1400 (Saturday lunch courses from ¥2800); dinner courses from ¥8000.

- Roku Roku (六禄), Grand Hyatt 6F, Roppongi Hills, [20]. This complex of six restaurants on the sixth floor is a good choice if price is not an issue. You can choose between sushi, steak, Japanese and Chinese, and will be looking at upwards of ¥5000 per head on the bill.

Drink
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Roppongi is the place to be (late) at night if you don't mind having a gaggle of Senegalese men following you down the street, urging you to just take a free look in their strip clubs, and occasionally grabbing your arm. Nightlife starts later than in other parts of Tokyo and many bars, clubs and discos are open until 4AM-5AM when the first trains run in the morning. Most other nightlife in Tokyo shuts down when the last trains run (around midnight). If you start your evening early you should first go to Shibuya and move over to Roppongi after 11PM.

There are innumerable watering holes and generally speaking, first floor and ground floor establishments cater to foreigners while higher stories feature more exclusive (and often sex-related) clubs aimed at the Japanese. An ID is required by many clubs, so bring along your passport. Note that many of the clubs are very small, and leaving and re-entering without paying the entry charge again is often not possible.

Beware of touts inviting you into clip joints, some of which will go so far as to spike your drinks to wring you dry. Avoid going to a bar you never heard of with someone that you did not know before your journey. Leave the credit card at home since in a bid to combat fraud an increasing number of bars accept only cash anyway.

Bars
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- Fifty Seven, 4-2-35 Roppongi, +81 03-5775-7857, [21]. This bar is located 2 minutes from Roppongi crossing, it is a New York style restaurant and lounge with great food and an extensive cocktail menu. Free Jazz night every Wednesday and Sunday Brunch are a few of there regular events. No cover charge.

- Black Horse, in a basement on Gaien-Higashi Dori. One of the better known places in the local ex-pat community. It caters to upscale ex-pats with sales of Cuban cigars, expensive drinks, and great DJ's. They strictly enforce a 25 and older age limit here, so the place has a more sophisticated feel to it, no servicemen, and older women. The only problem is how crowded it gets late at night. The best nights here are Thursdays, though Fridays and Saturdays are also packed. On Thursdays, women get free champagne and chocolate fondue all night. Black Horse was forermly known as 911.

- Heartland, in the bottom of Mori Tower. A place for many foreigners to start the night, and the crowd flows out the doors to the street on Fridays and Saturdays. The clientele consists mainly of male foreigners in the finance area and Japanese girls/women who want a foreigner yet not an English teacher or a US military serviceman. Although there is no official dress code, most men wear business attire and the women dress equally upscale . Heartland is quite different from the typical Pongi drinking hole as the average age is much higher and the clientele is more affluent. Free entrance, bottled beer ¥500.

- Motown. Up a flight of stairs to the left of TGI Friday's. No cover except for special events, drinks are reasonable and the staff is English friendly. Popular among expats for its smaller size and music selection, you can often find groups or solo western businessmen (and women) on expense accounts into the wee hours of the morning. Does get crowded at times, so go early if you actually want enough space to dance. Motown had been famous for its transsexual prostitutes that prowl the bar late at night, although recently, most have been deported (July 08). Those that remain arrive around 11:00 and will dominate the center of the bar. Interesting to talk to, but will dismiss you as soon as they find out you're not interested to spend 30,000 Yen + room for the night. On the upside, they are probably the best looking women in the place so if you are into that enjoy.

- Propaganda, Yua Roppongi Building 2F, 3-14-9 Roppongi. An appropriately grubby joint decorated with propaganda posters and booming bass, mostly of the hip-hop sort. The friendly staff parties as hard as the customers. Drinks ¥800-1000 (half price before 9PM), no cover charge.

- Abbott's Choice, Kato Building, 2F, 5-1-5 Gaien-Higashi, +81 03-3475-0353. Open until 8AM. Small, decent bar with NYC pop radio fed in via satellite. Attracts a nice mix of tourists, ex-pats and curious locals. A really welcome respite from the overpriced and overrated bars in the surrounding area.

- Tokyo Sports Cafe, 7-15-31 Roppongi, +81 03-3404-3675, [22]. This bar is located right around the corner from Feria. Despite the name, this is a bar, primarily showing Soccer and Baseball (NFL Superbowl party yearly). The best thing about this bar is Friday night, which is Models Night. It attracts the same crowd as Feria, so you can go to Tokyo Sports Cafe first, then head out to Feria when the models move there. No cover charge.

- Wall Street Bar, 3F Marina Bldg, 3-10-5 Roppongi, Minato-ku, +81 03-5478-7659 (wsg.admin01@gmail.com), [23]. 6PM-6AM. Relocated from its former place next to TGI Friday's, the side of the Korn building will have a poster pointing the next building down is the new locale of Wall Street Bar 1. There are also always staff members on the street recruiting the bar so you can always just ask them for the way. A Wall Street Bar 2 has also opened, past the Don Quixote and across the adjacent street . Be sure to ask for the fire show around 1AM - a tip will be appreciated, but not expected, and it will be worth hanging around. There's also a card available, at Wall Street Bar 1, possibly Bar 2, free shot and first drink ¥500.If a packed bar with loud music is what you are looking for, then you are good to come during the weekend.During weekdays the bar is more a lounge and chill out stop. There's also an email sign-up sheet on the weekends; opt-in and get a drink coaster for a free drink, suppose you could just write a faulty one. Free Entrance.

- Bar Quest Roppongi, 3F Rene No.2 Bldg, 5-3-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku, +81 03-5414-2225, [24]. 7PM-late daily. Quest brings you the best from Down Under, including a fine selection of Aussie lagers including VB, Crown Lager and Coopers, all the usual cocktails and even classic meat pies. A big-screen TV and a wide range of music played by DJs provide ongoing entertainment. You can also kick back Australian-style along the U-shaped bar and watch the photogenic bartenders hard at work.

- The First Bar, B1F Roi Bldg (white building across from Donki, next to Paddy Foley's), +81 03-5785-2705 (thefirstbar@thefirstbar.com), [25]. Daily 6PM-late. Touts itself as the biggest bar in Roppongi, which since it's not a club like Ageha, just might be true. Entrance is free and ladies usually get complimentary drink, wine, champagne or whatnot at the door. normally house music, so the stuff you hear walking down Roppongi-dori. There's pool and darts in back, but I like the drink selection. A bit of a cocktail bar; i mean, where else would you find a Grasshopper?

Clubs
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The hot spots of Roppongi change constantly, and legendary clubs Velfarre and Yellow have both closed their doors.

- A.I., Duplex Tower B1F, 3-17-10 Roppongi, [26]. Cosmopolitan and post-modern club with an international crowd. Cover ¥3500 only F Sa with 2 drinks.

- alife Nishiazabu, Myojo Nishiazabu 70 Bldg, 1-7-2 Nishiazabu (near Roppongi Hills), 03-5785-2531, [27]. 4000 square feet club. Minimum age is 23. Mostly Japanese people, but plenty of English speakers. Music is great with a mix of Japanese pop, dance & American pop. Crazy crowded, but fun! Cover usually ¥3500 men, ¥2500 women, which includes 2 drink tickets. Often discount coupons can be obtained from promoters between Roppongi Crossing and the club, which allows females to enter Alife for ¥1000, but no drinks are included..

- New Lex Edo, B1F, 3-13-14 Roppongi, +81 03-3401-1661. Formerly Lexington Queen, the place underwent renovations and a name change in 2007. This is the club most commonly frequented by both Japanese and American celebrities. The bartenders here are good, one of the few places in Roppongi where your drinks will not be watered down. Models drink for free, so expect to find quite a few here. The music is of a wider variety than in most Roppongi clubs, but usually sticks to the Top 100 USA club tracks. Be warned though, the average age here is quite young and sometimes barely old enough to drink. Cover ¥3000 women, ¥4000 men, with 3 free drinks. Additional drinks are ¥1000.

- Feria, Grace Complex B1F. Along with Lexington Queen, this club has become one of the most popular hangout places for the international model society and the (hedge fund) crowd who wants to be close to them. A lot bigger than the New Lex and arguably more luxurious. Cover ¥3500 only F Sa with 2 drinks.

- Flower, ROI Building 2F, 5-5-1 Roppongi, [28]. Upscale nightclub with mostly Japanese crowd. Cover ¥3500 only F Sa with 2 drinks.

- Gaspanic, [29]. The best known of Roppongi's many meat markets, where desperate gaijin men and desperate women hoping to score congregate. Nobody ever admits to going here, but it's packed tighter than the lower circles of Hell on most weekends. On Thursdays ("Happy Gaspanic Day") all drinks are ¥300 all night, while the rest of the time prices vary from ¥600-1000. The amount of alcohol in the drinks varies greatly, depending on the bar tenders and the crowd. Notorious pickpocket spot. No entry fee, but you must have a drink in your hand at all times.

- Gaspanic Bar, 2-3F, 3-15-24 Roppongi, +81 03-3405-0633. Mixed music for all ages.

- Gaspanic Club, Gaien-Higashi-Doori. Japanese couples and more electronic music.

- Gaspanic Club99, B1F.3-15-24 Roppongi, +81 03-3470-7195. The place for friends of hip-hop music with young audience.

- IBEX, Aries Bldg. 4F, 3-15-24 Roppongi, [30]. Hip-hop, R&B, and reggae club. Cover ¥1500 with 1 drinks.

- Muse, 4-1-1 Nishi-Azabu (follow the expressway from Roppongi Crossing past Roppongi Hills, and keep an eye out on your left), +81 03-5467-1188, [31]. Many expats argue that "you can't lose at Muse," a multi-level, multi-room below-ground establishment which, in addition to bars, dance floors, and VIP rooms, also has karaoke, ping-pong and pool tables. Cover usually ¥2,000, ¥3,000 or even free for men (for women, there is often no cover charge) and includes 2 drink tickets; students can get drink discounts (except on Friday and Saturday nights) with ID.

- Odeon, HanaTsubaki Bldg. 3F, 3-15-23 Roppongi, [32]. Mix of hip-hop and techno. Popular after hours spot. Cover ¥1000 with 1 drink.

- Soul Sonic Boogie, 5-18-2 Roppongi (at the end of the strip towards Tokyo Tower), +81 03-3584-7890, [33]. Specializing in old-school funk/soul/disco. Put on your platform soles, comb your 'fro, and boogie on back to 1979.

Sleep
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Sleeping is probably the last thing on your mind when here. There are plenty of places to hang out between the last train and the first one in the morning, but not surprisingly very few of them are free or inexpensive.

Budget
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- Super Sauna Roppongi VIVI (スーパーサウナ 六本木VIVI), Roi Bldg 4F, 5-5-1 Roppongi (Roppongi stn exit A3), +81 03-3404-4126. checkout: 10AM. Given the name you might well be excused for thinking this is in an entirely different business, but this is in fact quite a decent capsule hotel that caters to women also. A capsule for the night costs ¥4500, with pool, spa, gym, and more included..

Mid-range
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- Hotel Asia Center of Japan, (a 10-min walk or one metro stop away from Roppongi at Aoyama itchome on the Oedo, Ginza, and Hanzomon lines), [34]. Excellent budget hotel -- no amenities like a gym or spa, but friendly staff, small but well-appointed rooms, restaurant. Free high-speed internet in room, coin internet in lobby. Laundry available.

- the b, [35]. Super centrally located at Roppongi Crossing (center of night life area), 2 minutes to subway Hibiya and Oedo line, renovated in spring 2006, nice but small rooms. From ¥9000, with regular special discount offers when booking via the homepage (special offers available in Japanese only).

- Hotel Villa Fontaine Roppongi, (direct connection to Roppongi Itchome station (Namboku line)), [36]. Nice and spacious rooms targeting for business travelers. From ¥10,000 per night (with great weekend specials from ¥6300).

- Hotel Arca Torre Roppongi, (1 minute to subway Hibiya and Oedo line), [37]. Also super centrally located at Roppongi Crossing, with small but acceptable rooms (the cheap ones are without daylight) From ¥11550.

- Hotel Ibis Roppongi, [38]. Older hotel with relatively small rooms, starting from ¥13,500, convenient location near Roppongi Crossing. Entrance is a little bit difficult to find, next to a game center. It is only a few steps down Gaien-Higashi Dori in the opposite direction of all the bars and clubs. Very convenient to both Hibiya and Oedo subway lines.

Splurge
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- Grand Hyatt Tokyo, 6-10-3 Roppongi, +81 03-4333-1234, [39]. A part of Roppongi Hills, and not to be confused with the more famous Park Hyatt of Lost in Translation fame, which is in Shinjuku. Sleek and minimalistic, all black, gray and brown, with expensive design that never hesitates to sacrifice function for form, but the superlative service makes up for it. Rack rates marginally cheaper than the Park Hyatt at ¥37,000 and up.

- Tokyo Prince Hotel, 3-3-1 Shibakoen, +81 3-3432-1111. If you insist on staying in a "western" hotel near Roppongi, and have to stay within a budget (under ¥20,000 per night), the Tokyo Prince Hotel is one of your few options. The hotel is almost at the base of the Tokyo Tower and is located in a quiet, tree-lined neighborhood just a 15-minute walk from the action in Roppongi. The hotel staff speak English, and the hotel has the amenities of its modern competitors. But it is a bit of a throwback. The beds are short, the decor is tacky, and everything (except the DSL) feels a little dated.

- Ritz-Carlton Tokyo, 9-7-1 Akasaka (Tokyo Midtown), +81 3-3423-8000 (rc.tyorz.leads@ritzcarlton.com, fax: +81 3-3423-8001), [40]. Located on the top floors of the hip Midtown building, the tallest in Tokyo. Probably Tokyo's priciest hotel, with room rates starting from ¥60,000.

- Villa Fontaine Roppongi Annex, 2-7, Roppongi 3-chome, +81 3-3587-1111, [41]. Formerly Roppongi Prince, this is a Western style hotel that is significantly closer to the nightlife than the Tokyo Prince Hotel. Full queen size beds available, rooms look contemporary with ambient lighting and accent walls. Most importantly they are extremely quiet. The walk to the heart of the club scene in Roppongi is a quick 10 minutes up the hill, versus 20 mins from Tokyo Prince. The hotel staff speak English, but facilities are minimal (no gym, no pool, no laundry). High speed internet access is available upon request and only costs US$5 per day from noon to noon.

Stay safe
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Roppongi has, by Japanese standards, a slightly dangerous reputation and even makes it onto the US Department of State's Consular Information Sheet [42], probably mostly for lack of anything else to warn about. The main hazard is drunken fights, which should be steered clear of as standard operating procedure for the police is to grab everybody in the vicinity and lock them up until things are sorted out, which may take its time. Some petty theft also occurs in crowded bars and clubs.

Be wary of hustlers on the streets, who will often try to talk foreigners into going to hideously overpriced bars or clubs--the extent of the overpricing may not even be apparent until you get the bill at 5:00AM. They can be quite aggressive, especially if they think you might be in the military, but they will leave you alone if you just keep walking and ignore them completely. Pretending to talk on your phone may help. Some clip joints send foreign female confederates into other bars to pick up clueless-looking targets, and an increasing number of them will spike your drink and then ravage your credit card while you're out cold. If you want to escape Roppongi with your wallet intact, stick to places on the lower level of buildings, preferably with a sizable crowd, and don't bring your credit card, as most of the legittimate places don't accept them anyway. Never go to a place suggested by someone you just met.

While that is the general perception of Roppongi, it is far less dangerous than the other major areas that cater to foreigners in Asia. It's not even the most dangerous place in Tokyo in terms of clubs hustling customers: that distinction goes to Kabukicho and its Yakuza-owned hostess bars. Some of the best clubs/bars require elevators to get into them. Remember that, it is slightly dangerous by Japanese standards, but Japanese crime standards are very different than those in much of the world. Roppongi is very safe, as long as you are not there during an earthquake. Many young women walk on the street alone late at night in complete comfort. The main danger is to your wallet.

Get out
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- Complete a night of decadent debauchery with a sushi breakfast at Tsukiji, a few stops down the O-Edo Line.

- Shibuya (3km) and Aoyama (2km) are within walking distance. (Or, if it's daytime, take a 200-yen bus.)

District Odaiba Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By plane

From Narita Airport

From Haneda Airport

By train

By bus

By boat

On foot

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

Understand
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Odaiba was originally constructed in 1853 by the Tokugawa shogunate as a series of 6 fortresses in order to protect Tokyo from attack by sea, the primary threat being Commodore Matthew Perry's Black Ships, which had arrived in the same year. Daiba in Japanese refers to the cannon batteries placed on the islands.

In 1928, the 3rd daiba was refurbished and opened to the public as park, which remains open to this day.

The modern redevelopment of Odaiba started after the success of Expo '85 in Tsukuba. The Japanese economy was riding high, and Odaiba was to be a showcase as futuristic living, built at a cost of over $10 billion. Unfortunately, the "bubble economy" burst in 1991, and by 1995 Odaiba was a virtual wasteland, underpopulated and full of vacant lots.

In 1996, the area was rezoned from pure business to allow also commercial and entertainment districts, and the area started coming back to life as Tokyo discovered the seaside it never had. Hotels and shopping malls opened up, several large companies (including Fuji TV) moved their headquarters to the island, and transportation links improved.

Get in
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Web links to major transportation companies.

- Narita Express [1] (airport train)

- Keisei Skyliner [2] (airport train)

- Airport Limousine [3] (airport bus)

- Yurikamome [4] (main transport in Odaiba)

- Rinkai Line [5] (direct connection to city center)

- Tokyo Metro [6] (subway lines in Tokyo)

- Toei lines [7] (subway and buses in Tokyo)

Odaiba is linked to Tokyo proper by many bridges and tunnels, including the scenic Rainbow Bridge.

By plane
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From Narita Airport
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From Narita Airport, take the Keisei Skyliner [8] to Ueno station, then take the Ginza Subway Line (a Tokyo metro line [9]) to Shinbashi where you can transfer to the Yurikamome for service to Odaiba (about 1 hour 45 minutes to Daiba station, ¥2,390).

Regular and potentially-crowded Keisei tokkyu trains to Ueno station in place of the Skyliner increase the journey time slightly, but reduce the fare to ¥1,470. An easier alternative is to change at Aoto for the Toei [10] Asakusa subway train to Shinbashi, where you can pick up the Yurikamome.

Japan Rail Pass holders can take the JR Narita Express [11] to Tokyo Station, then wait on the same platform and take a Yokosuka Line local train one stop to Shinbashi to get the Yurikamome. It takes about 90 minutes to Daiba station, and Rail Pass users only have to pay the Yurikamome fare (¥310 in this case). Non-pass users must pay a total of ¥3,420.

Infrequent Airport Limousine buses [12] (six per day) run from the airport directly to the major hotels on Odaiba (about 70-75 minutes depending on traffic, ¥2,700).

From Haneda Airport
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Take the Tokyo Monorail [13] to Tennozu Isle and change to the Rinkai Line for direct access to Odaiba. A transfer to the Yurikamome can be made at Tokyo Teleport or Kokusai-Tenjijo stations (25 minutes to the latter, ¥660).

For the longer but scenic route over the Rainbow Bridge, take a Keikyu line [14] train, running through to the Toei Asakusa subway line, and change at Shinbashi to the Yurikamome (50 minutes to Daiba station, ¥920).

Airport Limousine buses [15] depart once per hour (2-4 times between 2PM and 4PM) for Tokyo Big Sight (about 25−30 minutes) and the major hotels on Odaiba (about 15-20 minutes, ¥500-600). Departures from 8AM-5:30PM depending on location.

By train
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Most visitors arrive in Odaiba via the automated Yurikamome [16] "new transit system", a cross between a train and a bus, from Shimbashi on the Yamanote line (or Shiodome station on the Toei Ōedo Line subway). An attraction in itself, the driverless elevated trains cross the Rainbow Bridge with a 270-degree loop for some great views of Tokyo bay. One-way from Shinbashi to Daiba station will set you back ¥310 (any station farther will be ¥370), or you can buy a one-day pass for ¥800. You can also buy the cheapest ticket from Shimbashi to Shiodome for ¥180 and ride to the end of the line and back without exiting for excellent views of the island if you're tired of walking or feeling especially frugal.

The other option is to take the Tokyo Waterfront Area Rapid Transit (Rinkai Line [17], Japanese only) from Ōsaki on the JR Yamanote Line or Shin-Kiba on the Metro Yurakucho line. Many of the trains connect directly from Ōsaki to Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ikebukuro, Ōmiya, and Kawagoe via the JR-East Saikyō Line. While slightly faster, the train travels mostly underground and doesn't provide much in the way of views.

By bus
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Toei city buses [18] provide cheaper (¥200 per ride) if slower access to Odaiba. 虹01 connects to Hamamatsu-cho, 海01 connects to Monzennaka-cho, 東16 connects to Tokyo station from Tokyo Big Sight. A few special bus services to other destinations are available weekends only. The private bus company Keikyu operates buses to Haneda airport [19], and Shinagawa and Yokohama directions [20].

The free Bay Shuttle bus runs along a circular route within Odaiba (round-trip ca. 40 minutes) connecting the parking lots and museums in Aomi district with the shopping malls, the hotels and the Fuji TV building. Unfortunately, stops are hard to find so try to ask at the information counters of shoppings malls, ticket counters, etc.

By boat
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Suijobus Ferries [21] also operate between Hinode Pier (on the Yurikamome line) and several stops in Odaiba. ¥400 one way. Tokyo Mizube Line [22] (Japanese only) offers general transportation and special cruises.

Some of the boats connect to Asakusa along the Sumida river and to Kasai Rinkai Park near Tokyo Disney Resort.

On foot
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You can in theory cross the Rainbow Bridge on foot for free, if inhaling exhaust for 40 minutes sounds like your idea of a fun time. Bicycles are not allowed on the bridge. The view over the Port of Tokyo is nice especially around sunset, though in winter (Nov to Mar), you have to enter by 5:30PM and to exit by 6PM. In other months you can enter the pedestrian part of the road from 9AM-8:30PM (30 minutes before you have to exit). Closed on the 3rd Monday every month and 29-31 Dec.

Keep in mind that the Shibaura-side entrance can be hard to find, and that you have to choose which side to walk beforehand. The northern side is recommended if you wish to look at buildings in the city center from above the port.

See
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- Fuji TV Building, 2-4 Daiba, Minato-ku (Yurikamome station), [23]. An Odaiba landmark which looks like it's built of tinkertoys. The studio tour is of limited interest unless you speak Japanese and/or are familiar with Fuji's programming, but you can visit the second-highest story for free for some nice views. The giant ball suspended in the structure has an expensive Chinese restaurant. Going to the observatory usually costs ¥500.

- Toyota MEGA WEB, 1 Aomi, Koto-ku, +81 03-3599-0808, [24]. 11AM-6PM, but some facilities until 9PM. Palette Town (Yurikamome Aomi or Rinkai Tokyo Teleport). A Toyota car technology showcase that will fascinate car nuts and bore the rest of us; others may wish to adjourn to the nearby Venus Fort shopping mall instead (see Buy).

- Daikanransha (大観覧車), 1 Aomi, Koto-ku, +81 03-5500-2655, [25]. 10AM-10PM daily. Palette Town (Yurikamome Aomi or Rinkai Teleport Town). The slowly-spinning ferris wheel provides great views and is very popular among Japanese couples. ¥900 per head, or rent a whole 6-person gondola for ¥3000.

- Miraikan (日本科学未来館), 2-41 Aomi, Koto-ku, +81 03-3570-9151, [26]. 10AM-5PM, longer during main seasons. Yurikamome Fune no kagakukan or Telecom Center. Japan's National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation, created by Japan's Science and Technology Agency. As the name indicates new technologies like robots, space modules etc. are presented here as well as demonstrations and physical experiments for the inquiring mind are given. Miraikan is currently temporarily closed due to the effect of the earthquake that occurred on March 11 2011. Miraikan is scheduled to reopen on June 11 2011 (Sat.), at 10:00 [27]. ¥500.

- Museum of Maritime Science (船の科学館 Fune no kagakukan), 3-1 Higashi-Yashio, Koto-ku, +81 03-5500-1111, [28]. 10AM-5PM. (Yurikamome Fune no kagakukan). A six-story museum shaped like a full-sized ocean liner, unsurprisingly devoted to ships. One of the main displays, a gigantic turbine engine, was actually set in place first and the museum was built around it. There are a few historic vessels on the adjacent wharf; unfortunately the World War II-era 'Emily' flying boat has been moved to Kagoshima. ¥700 for the museum but ¥1800 if you want to use the open-air swimming pool (open only during summer months).

- Tokyo Big Sight, 3-21-1 Ariake, Koto-ku, +81 03-5530-1111, [29]. (Yurikamome Kokusai-tenjijo-seimon, Rinkai Kokusai-tenjijo-mae). If you're visiting Tokyo on business, this, Japan's largest exhibition and convention center, might already be your destination. The four inverted pyramids are hard to miss and worth a look.

- Rainbow Bridge, [30]. Completed on 26 Aug 1993, this gateway to Odaiba is among the most beautiful modern bridges in Japan. Decorated with 444 lights, which change according to the seasons.

- Partire Tokyo Bay Wedding Village, 3-1-9 Ariake, Koto-Ku (between Yurikamome Aomi and Yurikamome Kokusai-tenjijo-seimon), +81 03-3570-1122, [31]. 10AM-8PM. Weddings are big business in Japan, and many Japanese like to marry in a style that looks more or less "Western." This village with houses built after European examples includes, of course, a wedding chapel and a "priest" (fake and preferably Caucasian) who conducts the wedding ceremony. The village offers everything for a memorable wedding: bridal shops, party planning, menus, honeymoons, etc.

Do
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- Oedo-Onsen-Monogatari (大江戸温泉物語), 2-57 Aomi, Koto-ku, +81 03-5500-1126, [32]. 11AM-8AM daily. (Yurikamome Telecom Center). Tokyo's newest and largest (artificial) hot spring complex, done up in Edo-era (1800s) style and featuring an endless array of bathtubs of all temperatures and flavors- including: uchiyu (insidebath), iwa-buro (an outdoor rock bath), ashiyu (a foot bath) and suna-buro (sand bath, separately charged). There are plenty of restaurants, bars, souvenir shops inside, and resting rooms for sleeping too. You'll get a wrist tag on entry, which acts as your wallet while inside, so anything you buy is paid when you leave. Entrance a fairly steep ¥2827, discounted to ¥1987 after 6PM, but beware the ¥1575 late night surcharge after 2AM.

- Odaiba Marine Park (お台場海浜公園, Odaiba Kaihin Kōen), 1-4 Daiba, Minato-ku, +81 03-5500-2455, [33]. (Yurikamome Daiba or Odaiba-kaihin-koen) Features one of two beaches in mainland Tokyo, but swimming is forbidden and not recommended anyway as the water is rather polluted. Along the beach runs a boardwalk dotted with couples, as this is considered the most romantic spot in Tokyo. The park also contains a copy of the Statue of Liberty, more popular than one might think. Have a picnic on Dai-San Daiba (第三台場 No. 3 Battery), located nearby and now turned into a pleasant little park.

- Shiokaze Park (潮風公園, Shiokaze Kōen), 1-2 Higashi-Yashio, Shinagawa-ku, +81 03-5500-2455, [34]. (Yurikamome Odaiba-kaihin-koen) Just next to Nikkō and Le Meridien hotels this park is the largest in the area. The southern corner, close to the ventilation tower of the highway, features a barbecue place highly popular during the warmer season. Barbecue equipment and tools as well as ingredients available for rent, reservation may be required during main seasons (see phone number). The park farther to the south is Higashi-yashio Park (東八潮公園), home to the Fune no kagakukan maritime museum.

- Joypolis, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku, +81 03-5500-1801, [35]. Decks Tokyo Beach (Yurikamome Daiba). A giant game center / amusement arcade.

- Tokyo Leisure Land, 1 Aomi, Koto-ku, +81 03-3570-5656/7/8/9, [36]. Partly open for 24 hours. Palette Town (Yurikamome Aomi). Another amusement center: arcade games, billiard, bowling, karaoke, etc.

Buy
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Odaiba is an unabashed paean to commercialism and features more malls than you can shake a stick at. Prices are somewhat higher than on the mainland.

- Venus Fort, 1 Aomi, Koto-ku, +81 03-3599-0700, [37]. 11AM-9PM (10PM on Sa and special days), restaurants 11AM-11PM but some may have different opening hours. (Yurikamome Aomi, Rinkai Tokyo Teleport). An elaborately Venice-themed shopping mall, complete with marble fountains, artificial sunsets every 30 min and an Italian "mayor" reading out speeches from a balcony. All shops are geared for women and generally quite expensive, but it's worth visiting this just for the decoration.

- Decks Tokyo Beach, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku, +81 03-3599-6500, [38]. 11AM-9PM, some restaurants until 11PM. (Yurikamome Odaiba Kaihin Koen). Features the Sega Joypolis gaming center (10AM-11PM), retro-themed arcade, a 60's-style store, gift shops, 2nd-hand western clothing stores, fine home accessories, 'Muscle Park' (from the creators of the popular 'Sasuke' and 'Muscle Ranking' television shows), and Little Hong Kong for all your dim sum needs. (Little Hong Kong and muscle park are now shut for renovation from May 2011 onward.)

- Aqua City Odaiba, 1-7-1 Daiba, Minato-ku, +81 03-3599-4700, [39]. 11AM-9PM (including 1F food court), restaurants till 11PM though some bars until early morning. (Yurikamome Daiba). Fashion for all ages, goods, etc. Restaurants in 4th, 5th, and 6th floors and a food court in the 1st floor. There is also a ¥100 shop and a Toys'R'Us (including baby foods and goods, and children can actually touch and play with the toys there!) on 1F, and a small Shinto shrine on 9F. The eastern part of the mall is occupied by Sony Mediage [40] housing a cinema and showcasing Sony products.

- Wanza Ariake Bay Mall, 3-1 Ariake, Koto-ku, +81 03-5530-5010, [41]. Yurikamome Kokusai-tenjijo-seimon). Restaurants and a few shops north of the Tokyo Big Sight exhibition center.

- For the self-caterers a sufficient number of convenience stores is available. A Maruetsu supermarket (1-5-3 Daiba, Minato-ku, +81 03-5531-0781, 10AM-10PM) is located nearby Odaiba-kaihin-koen station and a 99 Yen shop (1-3-5-105 Daiba, Minato-ku, +81 03-3570-0599, 24 hours; food, stationery, etc.) just a few steps farther north. Two 100 Yen shops (souvenirs, kitchen supply, stationery, etc.) are available: one in 1F of Aqua City Odaiba and the other in Wanza Ariake Bay Mall. Finally, there is a small shop (The Wholesalers Market Towers Odaiba) with expensive import foods and wines in The Towers Odaiba building (2-2 Daiba, Minato-ku) just east of Odaiba-kaihin-koen station.

Eat
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There are plenty of eating options in Odaiba's shopping malls and attractions, although prices are generally a little higher than on the mainland.

Drink
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- Zepp Tokyo, 1 Aomi, Koto-ku, +81 03-3599-0710, [42]. Palette Town (Yurikamome Aomi). One of Tokyo's largest performance hall/nightclubs, showcasing artists from around the country and the world.

Sleep
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There is a cluster of luxury hotels near Yurikakome Daiba station.

- Hotel Nikko Tokyo, 1-9-1 Daiba, Minato-ku, +81 03-5500-5500, [43]. A new seaside luxury hotel popular for weddings and honeymoons. (Yurikamome Daiba). Rates range from around ¥24,000 per night for a single room, to around ¥36,000 for a triple (this will vary by season).

- Grand Pacific Le Daiba, 2-6-1 Daiba, Minato-Ku, +81 03-5500-6711, [44]. (Yurikamome Daiba). Another nice hotel located next to a huge shopping mall (Aqua City Odaiba) with plenty of restaurants.

- Tokyo Bay Ariake Washington Hotel, 3-1-28 Ariake, Koto-ku, +81 03-5564-0111, [45]. (Yurikamome Kokusai-tenjijo-seimon or Rinkai Kokusai-tenjijo-mae). The third hotel in the area (just north of the Tokyo Big Sight exhibition center). Targeting business travelers it is the cheapest hotel in the area. Rates ranging from ¥9,950 (single) to ¥18,000 (twin).

- Ōedo Onsen Monogatari. Tatami rooms and a "Black Ship" themed capsule hotel within the premises. However, you have to pay typical rates for these accommodations on top of the admission and late night surcharge for the Onsen itself.

Contact

District Shiodome Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Mid-range

• Drink

• Sleep

Mid-range

Splurge

Understand
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One of the newest quarters of the city, almost entirely built after 2000, Shiodome has been transformed from a derelict railway cargo terminal to a miniature city of skyscrapers. Parts of the area still remain under construction but most is now open.

Get in
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Shiodome is directly accessible via Shiodome station on the Yurikamome new transit and Toei O-Edo subway lines. The bigger train hub of Shinbashi, on the JR Yamanote line, is also within easy walking distance. All buildings are connected together by an underground concourse and a web of walkways.

See
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- Advertising Museum Tokyo, B1F Caretta Shiodome, Higashi-Shinbashi 1-8-2, [1]. Tu-Sa 11AM-6:30PM. A small modern museum of the history of advertising in Japan, run by Japan's biggest ad company Dentsu. Probably the most interesting section is war-time propaganda, with posters exhorting the populace to grow pumpkins and apply for permits before listening to the radio. Most exhibits annotated in English. Free.

- Old Shinbashi Railway Station. This faithful reconstruction of the Tokyo terminus of Japan's first railway is built on the site of the original and even showcases the few remaining bits. The inside, however, is now given over to several expensive restaurants and cafés.

- Shiodome Museum, 4F National Center. This small museum has only a tiny permanent collection, but houses changing exhibitions.

- Dentsu Shiki Theater. A theater in the Caretta shiodome were musicals play.

Do
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Buy
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The largest shopping complex in Shiodome is Caretta Shiodome [2].

- Sho-Chu Authority, B2F Caretta Shiodome. 11AM-10PM daily. This humbly named shop stocks over 3,000 varieties of the Japanese tipples shochu and awamori.

- Nittele Shop, B1F-B2F Nippon Television Tower. Stocks a vast variety of TV-related goods; much will be unfamiliar to the non-resident, but there's a pretty good selection of Studio Ghibli items too.

- Shiodome City Center, [3]. Glass tower full of trendy restaurants and shops.

Eat
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Caretta Shiodome has two sections dedicated to eating: Canyon Terrace (1-3F), for lighter café-style eats, and Sky Restaurants (46-47F), for gourmet dining with views of Tokyo Bay. If these aren't enough there's another dozen restaurants in the main mall's B2F.

Mid-range
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- Din Tai Fung, B2F Caretta Shiodome. 11AM-10PM daily. The Tokyo flagship of the popular Taiwanese dim sum chain.

Drink
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- Saryō Tsuriji (茶寮都路理), B2F Caretta Shiodome. This massively popular tea shop usually has long queues waiting to sample its high-end green teas and delicate Japanese confectionery. An easier and cheaper alternative is to grab a cone of tea-flavored ice cream (¥300) from the adjoining shop, available in green tea and roasted hōjicha flavors.

Sleep
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Mid-range
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- Villa Fontaine Shiodome, 1-9-2 Higashi Shinbashi, +81 03-3569222, [4]. checkin: 3PM; checkout: 11AM. Giant four-star hotel. All rooms equipped with internet. ¥10,000 for a single.

Splurge
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- Conrad Tokyo, 1-9-1 Higashi-Shinbashi, +81 03-6388-8000, [5]. The latest contestant for the heavily competed title of most expensive hotel in Tokyo. Rooms start from a whopping ¥52,000.

- Park Hotel Tokyo, Shiodome Media Tower, 1-7-1, Higashi Shimbashi, +81 03-6252-1111, [6]. If the Park were any more minimalist, it wouldn't be here at all. This sky-high establishment boasts a light and airy foyer, with inviting lounge and restaurant adjoining. Rooms start from ¥19,500 single.

District Shinjuku Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By plane

By train

By bus

• See

• Do

Spas

Movies

• Buy

Department Stores

Books

Electronics

Variety Goods

Music

Other

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

Clubs

Cafes

Pubs and taverns

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

Rentals

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
toc

The west side of Shinjuku, a seismically stable area that escaped the last earthquake with nary a scratch, is Tokyo's skyscraper district featuring (among others) the gargantuan Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices and the curved form and webbed façade of the Mode Gakuen Cocoon Tower.

The east side of Shinjuku is devoted to shopping and nightlife, including Tokyo's largest red-light district Kabukicho (歌舞伎町) and gay nightlife central Shinjuku ni-chōme (新宿２丁目).

Nearby Ōkubo (大久保), one stop west of Shinjuku on the Chuo line (also Shin-Ōkubo, on the Yamanote), has many Korean-owned restaurants and grocery stores. Takadanobaba (高田馬場), the next stop on the Yamanote Line after Shin-Ōkubo, is popular with students from nearby Waseda University.

Get in
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By plane
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The fastest way to reach Shinjuku from Narita Airport is to take the Keisei Skyliner train and change at Nippori to the JR Yamanote Line. This takes approximately 65 minutes with transfer and costs ¥2590. JR's Narita Express offers a one-seat ride to Shinjuku, but it takes longer (85 minutes) and costs more (¥3110), although the cost for foreigners can be brought down with the purchase of a Suica & N'EX ticket.

Budget travelers can use the regular Keisei Line commuter train to Nippori and change to the Yamanote Line (Approx. 105 minutes, ¥1190). In the evenings, faster Access Tokkyu trains from Narita Airport to Nippori shave 20 minutes off the overall travel time against an extra charge of ¥200. The JR Yokosuka-Sobu Line also has stations at both Narita terminals.

Limousine buses run frequently from Narita Airport to Shinjuku Station's west exit and to area hotels (Approx. 2 hours, ¥3000).

Passengers coming from Haneda Airport can take trains on the Keikyu and Yamanote lines, changing at Shinagawa (45 minutes, ¥590). Limousine buses also run on this route (50 minutes, ¥1200).

By train
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Train is the obvious option for arrival, as Shinjuku Station is on the JR Yamanote, Chuo, Sobu, Saikyo, and Shonan-Shinjuku lines. Subway service is provided by the Tokyo Metro Marunouchi and Fukutoshin lines and the Toei Shinjuku and Ōedo lines. There are also terminal stations for the Keio, Odakyu and Seibu Shinjuku private railway lines.

Guinness World Records recognises Shinjuku Station as the busiest railway station in the world: More than 3.8 million passengers pass through each day. If you doubt this, try to board the Marunouchi line towards Tokyo Station at 8:00 on a Monday morning. The station is a sight in itself, effectively forming a giant multi-level warren of department stores, restaurants, commercial buildings, railway facilities and underground shopping malls which radiate out for kilometers under the surrounding area.

By bus
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Keio, JR, and Odakyu operate highway buses from Shinjuku. There are also a large variety of night buses that arrive from all over Honshu. JR buses are centered around the New South Exit (新南口 shin-minami-guchi). Odakyu buses arrive and depart in front of Odakyu Halc, and Keio buses arrive and depart in front of Yodobashi Camera's main branch. Various other highway and tour buses stop near the Subaru building.

Airport limousine buses from Narita (¥3,100, roughly 100 min.) and Haneda (¥1,200, 50 min) stop at the station and at all major hotels in Shinjuku, but are prone to traffic delays.

See
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- Tokyo Metropolitan Government Center (都庁 tochō), 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku (Metro Tochōmae E-28), [1]. The two enormous buildings of this giant hive of bureaucracy are an Orwellian architectural masterpiece designed by noted architect Kenzo Tange. The main reasons to come here, though, are the twin observatories. At a height of 202 m on the 45th floor, they have some of the best views of Tokyo. The North Observatory is open daily from 9:30 AM to 11:00 PM (closed second and fourth Mondays of each month), while the South Observatory is open daily from 9:30 AM to 5:30 PM (until 11PM on the days the North Observatory is closed; closed on the first and third Tuesdays of each month). Last entry is 30 minutes before closing. Free.

- NTT DoCoMo Building (sometimes called DoCoMo Tower). This gigantic tower resembling a granite Empire State Building, south of the station, is owned by NTT DoCoMo, Japan's largest cell-phone carrier. The upper part of the building is a mobile communications tower.

- Shinjuku Gyoen (新宿御苑), (a ten-minute walk east from JR Shinjuku station), [2]. A large public garden, and one of the most popular places for viewing cherry blossoms in the spring. It has Japanese, English, and French gardens, as well as Taiwanese teahouse and a botanical conservatory. The entrance fee often makes the park surprisingly uncrowded and peaceful ¥200, children under 15 ¥50, children under 6 free.

- For people watching, the place to be is the large square in front of the station's Kabukicho entrance, next to the Studio Alta shopping center.

- Hanazono Shrine (花園神社), located near the intersection of Meiji-dori and Yasukuni-dori. More remarkable for its location than its appearance, but it's a nice place to take a breather. There's often a flea market in the surrounding park on weekends.

- Southern Terrace, across from the South Exit of Shinjuku Station (the Southern Terrace exit from JR Shinjuku station is closest). The promenade next to the Southern Terrace exit offers a magnificent view of the Takashimaya department store and a bridge that offers the best views for watching the trains enter and exit.

- Shinjuku-sanchome and related red-light districts to the east of the station. It is perfectly harmless to walk around these during the day and marvel at the photo billboards of various male and female escorts on offer as well as the live gangster-types acting shady. While walking around this area should probably not be done with children, for adults the result is far more "cultural interest" than sleaze.

- Tokyo Opera City, (take the Keio New Line subway to Hatsudai station). A skyscraper with a shopping center and art museum that often has interesting multimedia exhibits.

Do
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- Karaokekan, Various locations (one minute walk from Seibushinjuku Line, Seibushinjuku station. Or a 5 minute walk from JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-5285-7007 (fax: 03-5285-7008), [3]. Karaokekan is a large chain of karaoke shops. They have rooms available from one person up to a large party. All you can drink set menus are available.

Spas
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- Boy and Girl Mylord, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-3 Mylord 4F (west exit of JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-3349-5720. Boy and Girl is a hair salon where you can also get spa treatments.

- Club on the Park Spa, Park Hyatt Tokyo Hotel, 3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku, +81 03-5322-1234 (reservation.phtokyo@hyattintl.com), [4].

Movies
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- Shinjuku Piccadilly, Shinjuku 3-15-5 (north of exits B7 and B8 of the Tokyo Metro Underground walkway), [5]. Shinjuku Piccadilly is the newest movie theater in Shinjuku. The theater features stadium seating and "platinum" seating. Platinum seating ranges from a semi-private room, including a private lounge (¥5000 per person) to a private room, including a relaxation room (¥30,000 for 2 people). ¥1800.

- Wald 9, Shinjuku 3-1-26 (in Marui's largest building next to Shinjuku Gyoen), +81 03-5369-4955, [6]. Part of the new generation of movie theaters in Tokyo. It features stadium seating, a small gift shop, and clean theaters. ¥1800.

- Cinem@rt, Shinjuku 3-13-3, Shinjuku Building 6,7F (one minute walk from Shinjuku 3 chome station of Tokyo Metro Marunochi line, Fukutoshin line, and the Toei Shinjuku line), +81 03-5369-2831. 335 seats total. Mondays are Men's Days, when men can watch movies for ¥1000. Wednesdays are Ladies' Days, when ladies can watch movies for only ¥1000.

- Kadokawa Cinema Shinjuku, Shinjuku 3-13-3,　Shinjuku Culture Bldg. 4・5F, +81 03-5361-7878, [7]. Old cultural history theater.

Buy
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Department Stores
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- Isetan, Shinjuku 3-14-1 (Exit B3, B4, & B5 from Shinjuku Sanchome Station), +81 03-3352-1111, [8]. Isetan is one of the most popular department stores in Shinjuku. It caters to a broad 20+ age group. It has a beautiful depachika (basement floor selling food and gifts) that is a little more expensive than other department stores in Shinjuku.

- Keio, Nishi-shinjuku 1-1-4 (West Exit and Central West Exit from the JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-3342-2111, [9]. Keio is similar to the Odakyu department store in terms of goods and services. The depachika is smaller and more cramped than Odakyu.

- Lumine, Nishi-shinjuku 1-1-5 (JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-3348-5211, [10]. Lumine has 3 buildings around the JR Shinjuku Station. Lumine 1 and 2 cater to all ages with average priced goods. Both buildings are located at the South Exit. Lumine Est is located at the East Exit and Central East Exit. Lumine Est focuses more on haute fashion for younger women and famous restaurants.

- Marui, Shinjuku 3-1-26 (Various locations located near Shinjuku Sanchome Station), +81 03-3354-0101, [11]. Marui is well known department store known for focusing on the 16-32 year age group. Spread out around Shinjuku Sanchome, the main building is located next to Shinjuku Gyoen. The men's building is located North of the main building and Marui Young is located West of Isetan.

- Mitsukoshi ALCOTT, Shinjuku 3-29-1 (West of Shinjuku Sanchome Station), +81 03-3354-1111, [12]. Mitsukoshi ALCOTT is an upscale department store that caters more towards the upper class shoppers. However, they still have a variety of reasonably priced shops and a large book store occupying the top 3 floors.

- Odakyu, Nishi-shinuku 1-1-3 (West Exit of the JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-3342-1111, [13]. Odakyu is the largest department store on the West side of Shinjuku Station. It caters to the 30+ age group and has various buildings. Mylord is located behind the Keio Department Store and caters to a younger age group. Halc is located South of the West Bus Loop and focuses on sports clothing and electronics (Bic Camera's largest Shinjuku location is within Halc).

- Takashimaya, Sendagaya 5-24-2 (New South Exit and the Southern Terrace Exit from the JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-5361-1111, [14]. Takashimaya is the Southern most department store in Shinjuku located between the JR Shinjuku and JR Yoyogi stations. This department store caters towards the mid-20s and up, along with families. The depachika is comparable to Isetan, but not as famous. Look for Tokyu Hands and Books Kinokuniya at the Southern end of the department store.

Books
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- Bookoff, Various Locations (Go south from the JR Shinjuku Southern Terrace Exit, head down the stairs at the end of the Southern Terrace, and cross the Odakyu train tracks. Alternatively, head out of the North Exit of the JR Yoyogi Station and turn right). 10AM-11PM. Bookoff is a well known second hand book store. They also offer various albums, games, and movies. The closest branch to Shinjuku Station is South of Southern Terrace. Alternatively, (Nishi-shinjuku 7-7-29) you can head North from the West Exit, or (Shinjuku 5-2-1) North of Shinjuku Gyoenmae Station on the Marunouchi Line.

- Books Kinokuniya, (the Main Branch is located between Shinjuku Sanchome and Shinjuku Stations. The South Branch is located South of Takeshimaya close to Yoyogi Station), [15]. Books Kinokuniya is the best book store for foreign language books. The Main Branch is the older of the 2, however, the Southern Branch is bigger and has a greater selection of foreign language books.

- Junkudo, Shinjuku 3-29-1 (Floors 6-8 of Mitsukoshi ALCOTT), +81 03-5363-1300, [16]. Junkudo is a major book store that carries a lot of Japanese language books. Their specialty is carrying hard to find books.

Electronics
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Major discount camera stores are concentrated on both sides of Shinjuku station, although there is a particularly large cluster just outside the West Exit. The undisputed king Yodobashi has branches on practically every block; note that the branches specialize, so you may have to look for the right branch to find what interests you (digital cameras, video cameras, medium-format photography, etc.). The other major names are Sakuraya and Bic. These stores have been transformed by computers and the Internet, and their computer departments match Akihabara in volume, price, and selection.

- Bic Camera, Nishi-shinjuku 1-5-1 (inside Odakyu Halc just outside the JR Shinjuku West Exit), +81 03-5326-1111, [17]. 10AM-9PM. Second-largest electronics shop in Shinjuku. While not as big as Yodobashi Camera, prices and product range is roughly the same. The East side shop, located near Mitsukoshi ALCOTT, next to Books Kinokuniya, is bigger than Yodobashi's East side shop, but still smaller than the West side location.

- Sakuraya, Shinjuku 3-26-10 (across from Lumine EST from the JR Shinjuku East Exit), +81 03-3352-4711, [18]. 10AM-10PM. Sakuraya is mainly located on the East side of Shinjuku station. Their West side location, next to Odakyu department store, is relatively small. They also have a regular branch located within Shinjuku Sanchome, along with a watch shop on Shinjuku-dori and a large Hobby shop behind Shinjuku Piccadilly.

- Yodobashi Camera, Nishi-shinjuku 1-11-1 (2 minutes West of the JR Shinjuku West Exit. Look South-West at the bus stop.), +81 03-3346-1010, [19]. 9:30AM-10PM. Yodobashi is the largest electronics retailer in Shinjuku. The main building is their multimedia centre. They also have a dedicated Games building, Camera building, and Watch building among others. Yodobashi also has a branch on the East side of Shinjuku, across from Lumine EST.

Variety Goods
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- Don Quijote, 1-16-5 Kabuki-cho (on Yasukuni-Dori), [20]. A hectic 24-hour discount store that sells just about everything that you would never imagine needing at three in the morning but might just pick up anyway, such as clothing, bicycles, electronics, jewelry, and gag gifts.

- Tokyu Hands, Sendagaya 5-24-2 (within Takashimaya near the JR Shinjuku New South Exit), +81 03-5361-3111, [21]. This is a large variety goods shop, and if "large" doesn't impress you, you have probably never faced the dilemma which kind of sand to use for your model railway. Because here, you can choose from a dozen kinds of sand alone - from yellow Sahara sand to reddish Nullarbor sand, everything in handy plastic packets. This shop is the best proof that in a rich mega city, there is a clientele for anything. You can buy almost anything you want.

Music
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- Disk Union, Shinjuku 3-31-4 (Main Branch is located near Shinjuku Sanchome Station), +81 03-3352-2697, [22]. You can get music, movies, and music books. They have a large selection of used goods with over 10 locations. Aside from the main branch, other branches specialize in specific genres or goods. This shop is great for music enthusiasts.

- HMV, Shibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-2 (Takashimaya Times Square 12F), +81 03-5361-3060, [23]. HMV is one of the bigger record stores in Japan with a good selection of music and movies. HMV has 2 locations in Shinjuku: one in Takashimaya Times Square and another on the 6th floor of Lumine Est.

- Tower Records, Shinjuku 3-37-1 (Southeast Exit of the JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-5360-7811, [24]. Tower Records is one of the biggest record stores in Japan. They have any CD or DVD you can imagine, and if not, you can probably order or reserve it.

- Tsutaya, Shinjuku 3-26-14 (East of the JR Shinjuku East Exit. Across from Books Kinokuniya on Shinjuku-dori), 03-5269-6969 (fax: +81 03-5269-6990), [25]. 10AM-2AM. Tsutaya is a major video/music rental store but the Shinjuku shop sells a large variety of music, games, and videos. They also have a decent variety of used products at reduced prices.

- Nishi-Shinjuku 7-chome, (northwest of JR Shinjuku station). Packed with music shops specializing in various genres such as punk and heavy metal. Many sell nothing but bootlegs and collectibles.

Other
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- Between the underground entrance to the Keio department store and the taxi rotary is an area hosting a rotating series of stalls or exhibits. Some recent stalls/exhibits have included various local foods from around Japan, furniture, and information about various government projects around Tokyo.

Eat
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A great way to get by in Tokyo on a budget is to make lunch your main meal. Many restaurants cater to the business lunch crowd and offer an excellent two or three course meal for between ¥800-1300. Going to the same places for dinner would be up to three times more expensive.

Budget
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- The Lumine and Mylord department stores atop the south side of the JR station both have inexpensive restaurant arcades on their upper floors.

- Khao San, Lumine 1, B2F. A good place for Thai street-stall style food. It's always packed and hectic for lunch, with attendants hollering to attract customers.

- Café Haïti, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-19-2 B1F, +81 3-3346-2389. Strong coffee and spicy curry.

- Christon Cafe, Oriental Wave Bldg 8F, 5-17-13 Shinjuku, +81 3-5287-2426, [26]. A great atmosphere for those looking to lounge around on a leather couch surrounded by cathedral lighting, gargoyles, and an array of Christian decor. First class service with price that is hard to believe considering how great the food is, with most mains well under ¥1000. "Amuse" charge of ¥300 per person on top. Very very nice place for somebody on a tight budget that would like to indulge in a top class establishment.

- Doner Kebab Stand, (take the New South exit and walk straight ahead; the stand is on the left side, near the IDC Otsuka furniture store). 11AM-11:30PM. Serves delicious roasted meat with a special Turkish sauce. ¥500.

- Takoyaki Stand, (take the East exits from the station and walk straight ahead). Nearby the McDonald's and Wendy's you'll see a small cart selling this strange but delicious snack: small pieces of octopus mixed into a sort of pancake batter and fried in small spheres. Watch as the elderly vendor liberally applies sauces, scallions and fish flakes. You get six for only ¥500 and it's a terrific snack after a night of sake and beer. Unfortunately there's no seats but no one will fault you for standing there and chowing down.

- Saam-Rot THAI&VIETNAM Cafe Restaurant, Kabukicho 1-2-19, 2F, +81 03-3205-0148, [27]. Original Thai & Vietnamese food.

- Blumare, Shinjuku 3-28-9, Shinjuku Lion Kaikan 3F, +81 03-3352-6606. All-you-can-eat pizza and pasta chain restaurant. Lunch ¥1300.

- Sansyoku-Sansun-Bashi (三尺三寸箸), Nishi-shinjuku 1-1-5, Lumine One 7F, +81 03-5909-5123. All-you-can-eat food. Lunch ¥1800.

Mid-range
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- Okonomiyaki Wahaha Fugetsu (お好み焼き わっはっはっ風月), [28]. The Japanese favorite okonomiyaki, done Osaka-style.

- Botejyu, Tokyo, Shinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 1, Subnade B1, +81 03-3348-5322, [29]. 11AM-10:30PM (Last order 10PM). Botejyu is an okonomiyaki shop that sells a variety of okonomiyaki. They also have various yaki-soba dishes. Beware that at times, this restaurant can be busy with wait times of up to 30 min.

- Juttoku (十徳), New Sentora Bldg B1F, 1-5-12 Nishi-Shinjuku, +81 3-3342-0339, [30]. M-Sa 4PM-12AM, Su 4PM-4AM. This izakaya has an excellent selection of sake.

- The Lockup, Kabuki-cho 1-16-3, Shinjuku Square Bldg 6-7F, +81 3-5272-7055. 5PM-5AM. A Shinjuku original that has since spawned several branches elsewhere in Tokyo. It has a hybrid prison/dungeon/horror movie theme: customers are led to tables inside stone cells by waitresses in plastic-miniskirt police uniforms, where they are "locked up" and given menus filled with bizarre drinks (the most well-known of which consists of a rack of test tubes filled with flavored syrups, a flask full of alcohol, and a beaker to mix everything in) and relatively normal food. Twice every night, a "jailbreak" is staged in which the lights go out and costumed hoodlums scare the living daylights out of random patrons.

- Kappō Nakajima (割烹 中島), Shinjuku 3-32-5 basement. Closed Sundays. Specializes in sardine dishes. Yanagawa teishoku is deep-fried sardines with scrambled eggs on rice (it tastes better than it sounds).

- Shunka Shuto (春花秋灯), 53rd floor of Tokyo Opera City (see above), +81 3-5353-7111. Enjoy the view while dining on seafood and other specialties of Hokkaido.

- Yanbaru (やんばる), Shinjuku 3-23-6 (north of Kabukicho exit), +81 3-3353-2028. There's nothing pretentious about this restaurant specializing in Okinawan food, which emphasizes pork and vegetables that are unusual even to Honshu Japanese. Recommend is beni imo (¥450), tempura-style sweet potato; and hechima misoni (¥600), an eggplant-like vegetable served in a strongly fermented miso sauce. A picture menu is available.

- There's a cluster of interesting ethnic restaurants on the south side of Koshu-Kaido-dori, to the west of the station.

- Rose de Sahara, +81 3-3379-6427. Offers fried alligator and other African foods.

- España, +81 3-3379-1159. In the same building, has good paella.

- Court Lodge, +81 3-3376-7733. A few buildings away on the ground floor; serves spicy dishes of Sri Lanka.

- Bosphorus Hasan, Shinjuku 3-6-11 2F, +81 3-3354-7947, [31]. Open everyday, including national holidays; 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5PM-11:30PM. Authentic Turkish food.

- Din Tai Fung, Sendagaya 5-24-2, Takashimaya 12F, +81 03-5361-1381. 10AM-10PM, closed Wednesdays. Tokyo branch of the renowned Taiwan dim sum restaurant; speciality is the dumplings.

- Brusca, 107 Yarai-cho, Hosoya Bldg 2F (Tozai line, Kagurazaka station, exit 1), +81 03-6457-5788, [32]. 11:30AM-2:30PM, 6PM-midnight. Excellent Italian bruschetta, bread topped with a variety of meat, cheese, vegetables and herbs. Wide selection of bottled beers, and 6 beers on tap. Second restaurant opened by the enthusiastic Stefano. ¥800-1000 for one bruschetta.

Splurge
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- Torafugu-Tei (とらふぐ亭), Kabukicho 2-11-7 Metro Bldg. B1F. Specializing in the infamous fugu (blowfish), it's one of the huge number of seafood restaurants in Kabukicho (see below). Set dinners go for around ¥5000, featuring fugu prepared five or six ways, fresh from the tank.

Drink
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The Kabukichō (歌舞伎町) district, to the northeast of JR Shinjuku station, is Tokyo's most notorious red-light district - although during the daytime you might not even notice, especially if you can't decode the elaborate Japanese codewords on the billboards. At night it's a different story though, as sharkskin-suited junior yakuza gangsters hustle and girls in miniskirts beckon customers amid the adults-only vending machines. Night or day, it's always packed with people, and until recently quite a bit of gangland violence went on in the vicinity (though at any rate outsiders are generally not involved).

To the south of Kabuki-cho is Shinjuku ni-chome (新宿２丁目), Tokyo's largest gay district.

Golden Gai (ゴールデン街) is the name given to a few narrow alleys in a block on the east edge of Kabukicho. It's packed with tiny aging "hole-in-the-wall" bars and started as a red light district some decades ago; morphing into some sort of a subversive hangout; and finally now into an odd assortment of tiny bars (some up very steep steps.) The irony of the place is that while it has become somewhat of a tourist attraction, many of the bars rely on regulars, so strangers wandering in may receive either a frosty reception, cover charge or both. If the door is open and you get a smile go in, it's an experience not to be had anywhere else. Many of the bars have karaoke and ancient mama-sans, while one has an old man who speaks Spanish and plays flamenco videos on a tiny black and white TV, and who occasionally plays guitar; another has a great collection of jazz music. Some places charge extra for karaoke with coin machines or a surcharge added to the bill while others, such as Bar K, have it available for free. Be aware that commercial photography in some parts of the Golden Gai is prohibited without permission.

- Araku, Golden Gai St #2 2FL, +81 03-5272-1651, [33]. Australian-run, considerably larger and can be less intimidating than many other Golden Gai establishments.

- Bar K. Always welcoming of foreigners with beers. ¥1000 mini long neck.

- Rock Bar: Mother. Has an extensive collection of Punk and Metal CDs for those looking for some alternative rock.

- Champions (Coin Bar), just before the Golden Gai entrance and slightly west as you head back towards Kabuki-cho. Sells all drinks for 500 yen and is staffed mostly by Filipinas who speak excellent English.

On the west side of the Yamanote tracks, Omoide Yokochō (思い出横丁, "Memory Lane") is a small alley filled with yakitori joints. Omoide Yokochō is also sometimes referred to as gokiburi yokochō (cockroach alley) or shomben yokochō (piss alley - no prizes for guessing why).

Once you get beyond Omoide Yokochō into the skyscrapers of West Shinjuku, the nightlife pretty much dies out, with the solitary exception of what is probably Tokyo's best-known bar among foreigners:

- New York Bar & Grill, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1 (Park Hyatt Tokyo), +81 03-5323-3458, [34]. Daily 5PM-midnight. One of the main sets for Lost in Translation, this slick joint on the 52th floor has dark decor and floor-to-ceiling windows with jaw-dropping vistas, with live jazz nightly. Eating a steak here would cost you well north of ¥10,000 per head, but you can nurse a beer for a mere ¥1000 or, "for relaxing times", try out Bill Murray's 17-year-old Suntory Hibiki for ¥2,300. Cover charge ¥2000 after 8PM (Sun 7PM).

Clubs
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Oddly, there are few nightclubs left in Shinjuku, perhaps due to the price of real estate. Liquid Room, once one of the Tokyo's best-known party places, decamped to Ebisu several years ago.

- Casablanca, J2 Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, [35]. A two level nightclub and lounge with a large dance floor and darts. The DJ normally spins hip-hop, R&B, reggae, and house, and there are live house performances periodically through the night.

- Loft/Plus One (ロフトプラスワン), Hiyashi Bldg B2F, Kabukicho 1-14-7 (Off Chuo-dori opp. Koma Theatre), [36]. Shows at 2PM, 7:30PM, and midnight. Performance art space meets bar run with a simple concept: different people and groups rent a block of time and do whatever they want to. The end result runs from stand-up comedy and lectures to porn star photo shoots and incredibly violent live S&M. Erotic shows 18+ only (ID required). Tickets ¥1000-6000 (discounts for advance purchase).

- Oto, [37]. Upscale club of mostly locals that have live jazz bands and DJ's. Music ranges from jazz, electro, to Euro rock.

- Tokyo Loose, 2-37-3 Kabuki-cho, Marutomo Bldg B1, +81 03-3207-5677, [38]. Small bar full of Men. It's not easy to find, so call for directions.

Cafes
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- Bun The world of coffee, Shijuku-ku Shinjuku 3-15-17, Isetan Bl.1F, +81 03-3354-7226. Specialty coffee store feeling, with coffee styles from 15 countries.

- Doutor, Various locations, [39]. Doutor is a relatively "salary man" coffee shop. You will see lots of business men within this shop. Expect most shops to be all smoking, or only 2-3 seats for a non-smoking section. ¥200-450 for drinks.

- Excelsior Caffe, Various locations, [40]. Excelsior Caffe and Doutor are the same company, however Excelsior Caffe caters to a younger, more feminine crowd. Most shops tend to have a better non-smoking section, however smoking still occupies the majority of the cafe's seating area. Thankfully, bigger shops have smoking and non-smoking on different floors. ¥280-460 for drinks.

- Pronto, Various locations, see website and click on 店舗リスト, [41]. opens around 7AM, closes around 5:30PM. The bar is usually opened within minutes. Pronto is a very relaxed cafe/bar that is a cafe during the day. They offer premium style drinks. ¥200-400 for drinks.

- Segafredo ZANETTI, 3 locations near Shinjuku Station, [42]. Segafredo is a somewhat upscale style cafe that has various locations near Shinjuku. Segafredo tends to have a darker atmosphere akin to Pronto. ¥280-500 for drinks.

- Starbucks Coffee, Shinjuku has 22 Starbucks Coffee shops, [43].

- Shinjuku Dianne Bldg 3-36-6 (one minute from Shinjuku station by walk, 8 minutes from Seibu-shinjuku station by walk; between OIOIcity and Flags), +81 03-3353-4775.

- Shinjuku Green Tower, Nishi-shinjuku 6-14-1 (4 minutes from Nishi-shinjuku station by walk, 6 minutes from Tochomae station by walk, 10 minutes from Shinjuku station by walk; near the Hilton Hotel), +81 03-3342-7737.

- Canal Cafe, 1-9 Kagurazaka (Iidabashi station, JR west exit or subway exit B2A), +81 3-3260-8068 (fax: +81 3-3260-8052), [44]. 11:30AM-9:30PM, until 11PM on weekend. Closed Mondays or the day following a holiday. Located in the far east of Shinjuku City in the Kagurazaka district. With views remarkable for Tokyo, Canal Cafe consists of a separate restaurant and cafe situated alongside a canal. The open-air cafe has great ambiance. At the restaurant figure ¥6000-9000 for dinner, but at the café, which is a long patio-like dock, drinks and snacks are purchased at the bar and can be quite reasonable.

Pubs and taverns
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- The Dubliners, Shinjuku 3-28-9 (two minutes from JR east exit), +81 03-3352-6606. Down a pint of Guinness and mingle with the local expats.

- The Hub, [45]. Popular chain of English pubs. Have some fish and chips with your pint at one of four Shinjuku locations.

- 1-6-1 Kabukicho, Shirou Building B1, +81 03-5155-2622.

- 1-22-8 Kabukicho, Kojimaya Building B1, +81 03-3208-1462.

- 1-3-17 Nishi-Shinjuku, Aoi Building B1, +81 03-3345-5310.

- 3-36-15 Shinjuku, Uchino building B1 & 6F, +81 03-5379-1949.

- Marone, (Unfortunately the address (in English) is incredibly difficult to find, but luckily it's only a few doors down from the famous restaurant Tsunahachi (east of the station). Look for their chalkboard outside a non-descript building and then go up to 2F). Tucked away in this tiny cubbyhole of a space is one of the most interesting small bars in Tokyo. A country western theme with Chet Baker and Nat King Cole pouring from the stereo. The food is cheap and superbly done (think chili nachos and the like); beer and spirits are also available. The place is tiny but it attracts a great mix of young groups of friends and office workers. Be forewarned though: some nights Marone puts on live music and cover charges are upwards of ¥4000! The older couple who run the bar are terrifically friendly but their English is minimal.

- Vagabond, 1-4-20 Nishi Shinjuku (In west Shinjuku, in the 2nd alley behind (north of) Odakyu Halc, Shinjuku), +81 03-3348-9109. A great little pub with two floors. The first floor is a little more private while the top floor is a very cozy jazz bar with live music and a good selection of finger foods cooked right at the bar for you. Caution to taller travelers: it's a little cramped at the bar.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Sakura Hotel Hatagaya, 32-3 Hatagaya Shibuya-ku, +81 3-3469-5211 (fax: +81 3-3468-4307), [46]. Just 2 stations (3 min.) to Shinjuku. Affordable hotel accommodation in central Tokyo. Staff can speak English. Single rooms ¥6930, double rooms ¥9000, twin & triple room with breakfast..

- Tama Ryokan, 1-25-33 Takadanobaba, +81 3-3209-8062 (fax: +81 3-3209-8068), [47]. There is a lounge for relaxing and internet access. Three-minute walk from Takadanobaba Station. Prices for one person no higher than ¥4,500, and the prices drop if more than 1 person stays per room.

- Ten Ten Guesthouse, Takadanobaba, +81 070-5652-8628, [48]. The cheapest youth hostel in Tokyo. Don't expect too much for the price. Cockroaches included. The manager manages 6 of these guesthouses, all the same price, same style. Price for a dorm bed starts with ¥1,200 (per day for 1 month stay), ¥1,400 (per day/1 week stay), up to ¥1,600 (2-6 nights).

- Tokyo International Hostel, 1-1 Kagurakashi, +81 3-3235-1107 (fax: +81 3-3267-4000), [49]. Located on the 18th and 19th floors of a high-rise in Shinjuku, with great views over the city (including a hot tub and baths overlooking the lights and skyscrapers of Shinjuku) and comfortable rooms.

- Manboo Internet & Comic Cafe. Internet cafe that has small, private rooms to crash out in. Rooms have a comfortable reclining chair (or a "flat seat" option), internet, TV, and headphones. Free soft drinks and coffee are provided and there's also a shower room/toilet and toiletries on sale. ¥1,800.

- Green Plaza Capsule Hotel, [50]. Not a bad capsule hotel, though it runs a little more expensive than most of its kind. They will take foreigners as long as they don't make fools of themselves. Remove your shoes on entry. ¥4200.

- Ace Inn Shinjuku, [51]. Capsule Hotel near Akebonobashi Station. On the ninth floor there is a common space with vending machines and TV, where you can meet with the other guests from all over the world. Internet connection via WiFi in the whole building or PC on the ground level is free. English speaking staff. Rooms from ¥3150, long term discount starting from 1 week.

Mid-Range
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- Hotel Sunlite Shinjuku, +81 03-3356-0391 (fax: +81 03-3356-1223), [52]. Singles start at ¥8,715; doubles at ¥12,075 per night. Discounts are offered if you refer to their web page.

- Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku, 2-3-1 Yoyogi, +81 3-3375-3211, [53]. Includes a restaurant, a bar, and massage parlor. Located just 2 minutes walking from Shinju-ku station south exit. Recommended for taller guests. Prices range ¥14000 and up.

- New City Shinjuku, 4-31-1 Nishi-shinjuku, 66 3 836 4700. Located in a tranquil spot across Shinjuku Central Park from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building, this hotel has clean rooms with nice views of the skyscraper district, two decent onsite restaurants for the truly lazy, and a free shuttle bus to and from Shinjuku station. Singles start at ¥9500.

- Shinjuku Prince Hotel, Kabushigi-cho 1-30-1, +81 03-3205-1111, [54]. Includes restaurants, a bakery, and salon.

- Tokyu Stay Yotsuya, 2-1 Yotsuya, +81 03-3354-0109 (fax: +81 03-3354-0191), [55]. Part of the Tokyu Stay chain, these hotels are popular with business travelers. The small kitchenettes, washer/dryers, and free LAN access in all rooms makes these a good value. Singles start at ¥9,450; doubles at ¥17,850 per night. Slight discounts are offered for extended stays.

Splurge
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The western side of Shinjuku has a notable concentration of luxury hotels.

- Four Seasons Tokyo. With only 57 rooms, some them the largest in the city, plus a stunning gym with amazing views, it's no wonder why it's Tokyo's most expensive hotel.

- Hyatt Regency Tokyo, 2-7-2 Nishi-Shinjuku (close to Shinjuku Station), +81 03-3348-1234 (tokyo.regency@hyatt.com), [56]. 744 rooms and suites with views of Mt Fuji and Shinjuku Central Park. Regency Club lounge for free continental breakfast, tea service and evening cocktails. Hosts a roof-top pool and healh spa.

- Keio Plaza Hotel, 2-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, +81 03-3344-0111, [57]. Less than 10 minutes by foot from Shinjuku Station, has rooms that face the Shinjuku Metropolitan Government office.

- Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, +81 03-5322-1234, [58]. Towering above the rest literally and figuratively, this hotel is best known for featuring prominently in the movie Lost in Translation. Surprisingly intimate in feel, one of the standout features is the 47th-floor "Club on the Park" pool with floor-to-ceiling views of Shinjuku at night. Service and amenities are superlative, but rates are astronomical even by Japanese standards. Singles starting at ¥50,000.

Rentals
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- Sakura House, Nishi-Shinjuku K-1 Bldg 2F, 7-2-6, +81 3-5330-5250 (info@sakura-house.com), [59]. If you plan on staying in Tokyo for a month or more you might want to check this place out.

Contact
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- Tokyo Tourist Information Center, on the 1st floor of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building 1, [60]. 9:30AM-6PM daily. A good source of information on not just Tokyo but all of Japan. This office is geared for foreign visitors, so all materials are in languages other than Japanese and all staff speak English.

Get out
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- Shibuya is located 3 stations south of Shinjuku on the Yamanote Line.

- Ikebukuro is located 3 stations north of Shinjuku on the Yamanote Line.

- Mitaka is located West along the Chuo Line. It is the home of the Ghibli Museum.

- Hachioji is a suburban city of Tokyo located west of Shinjuku along the Keio Line and Chuo Line, with access to Takao-san, a popular mountain for hiking or just escaping the urban sprawl for a day.

- Hakone is a popular area for onsens and easily accessible by the Odakyu Line.

District Kabukicho Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By plane

By train

By bus

• See

• Do

Spas

Movies

• Buy

Department Stores

Books

Electronics

Variety Goods

Music

Other

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

Clubs

Cafes

Pubs and taverns

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

Splurge

Rentals

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
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The west side of Shinjuku, a seismically stable area that escaped the last earthquake with nary a scratch, is Tokyo's skyscraper district featuring (among others) the gargantuan Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices and the curved form and webbed façade of the Mode Gakuen Cocoon Tower.

The east side of Shinjuku is devoted to shopping and nightlife, including Tokyo's largest red-light district Kabukicho (歌舞伎町) and gay nightlife central Shinjuku ni-chōme (新宿２丁目).

Nearby Ōkubo (大久保), one stop west of Shinjuku on the Chuo line (also Shin-Ōkubo, on the Yamanote), has many Korean-owned restaurants and grocery stores. Takadanobaba (高田馬場), the next stop on the Yamanote Line after Shin-Ōkubo, is popular with students from nearby Waseda University.

Get in
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By plane
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The fastest way to reach Shinjuku from Narita Airport is to take the Keisei Skyliner train and change at Nippori to the JR Yamanote Line. This takes approximately 65 minutes with transfer and costs ¥2590. JR's Narita Express offers a one-seat ride to Shinjuku, but it takes longer (85 minutes) and costs more (¥3110), although the cost for foreigners can be brought down with the purchase of a Suica & N'EX ticket.

Budget travelers can use the regular Keisei Line commuter train to Nippori and change to the Yamanote Line (Approx. 105 minutes, ¥1190). In the evenings, faster Access Tokkyu trains from Narita Airport to Nippori shave 20 minutes off the overall travel time against an extra charge of ¥200. The JR Yokosuka-Sobu Line also has stations at both Narita terminals.

Limousine buses run frequently from Narita Airport to Shinjuku Station's west exit and to area hotels (Approx. 2 hours, ¥3000).

Passengers coming from Haneda Airport can take trains on the Keikyu and Yamanote lines, changing at Shinagawa (45 minutes, ¥590). Limousine buses also run on this route (50 minutes, ¥1200).

By train
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Train is the obvious option for arrival, as Shinjuku Station is on the JR Yamanote, Chuo, Sobu, Saikyo, and Shonan-Shinjuku lines. Subway service is provided by the Tokyo Metro Marunouchi and Fukutoshin lines and the Toei Shinjuku and Ōedo lines. There are also terminal stations for the Keio, Odakyu and Seibu Shinjuku private railway lines.

Guinness World Records recognises Shinjuku Station as the busiest railway station in the world: More than 3.8 million passengers pass through each day. If you doubt this, try to board the Marunouchi line towards Tokyo Station at 8:00 on a Monday morning. The station is a sight in itself, effectively forming a giant multi-level warren of department stores, restaurants, commercial buildings, railway facilities and underground shopping malls which radiate out for kilometers under the surrounding area.

By bus
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Keio, JR, and Odakyu operate highway buses from Shinjuku. There are also a large variety of night buses that arrive from all over Honshu. JR buses are centered around the New South Exit (新南口 shin-minami-guchi). Odakyu buses arrive and depart in front of Odakyu Halc, and Keio buses arrive and depart in front of Yodobashi Camera's main branch. Various other highway and tour buses stop near the Subaru building.

Airport limousine buses from Narita (¥3,100, roughly 100 min.) and Haneda (¥1,200, 50 min) stop at the station and at all major hotels in Shinjuku, but are prone to traffic delays.

See
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- Tokyo Metropolitan Government Center (都庁 tochō), 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku (Metro Tochōmae E-28), [1]. The two enormous buildings of this giant hive of bureaucracy are an Orwellian architectural masterpiece designed by noted architect Kenzo Tange. The main reasons to come here, though, are the twin observatories. At a height of 202 m on the 45th floor, they have some of the best views of Tokyo. The North Observatory is open daily from 9:30 AM to 11:00 PM (closed second and fourth Mondays of each month), while the South Observatory is open daily from 9:30 AM to 5:30 PM (until 11PM on the days the North Observatory is closed; closed on the first and third Tuesdays of each month). Last entry is 30 minutes before closing. Free.

- NTT DoCoMo Building (sometimes called DoCoMo Tower). This gigantic tower resembling a granite Empire State Building, south of the station, is owned by NTT DoCoMo, Japan's largest cell-phone carrier. The upper part of the building is a mobile communications tower.

- Shinjuku Gyoen (新宿御苑), (a ten-minute walk east from JR Shinjuku station), [2]. A large public garden, and one of the most popular places for viewing cherry blossoms in the spring. It has Japanese, English, and French gardens, as well as Taiwanese teahouse and a botanical conservatory. The entrance fee often makes the park surprisingly uncrowded and peaceful ¥200, children under 15 ¥50, children under 6 free.

- For people watching, the place to be is the large square in front of the station's Kabukicho entrance, next to the Studio Alta shopping center.

- Hanazono Shrine (花園神社), located near the intersection of Meiji-dori and Yasukuni-dori. More remarkable for its location than its appearance, but it's a nice place to take a breather. There's often a flea market in the surrounding park on weekends.

- Southern Terrace, across from the South Exit of Shinjuku Station (the Southern Terrace exit from JR Shinjuku station is closest). The promenade next to the Southern Terrace exit offers a magnificent view of the Takashimaya department store and a bridge that offers the best views for watching the trains enter and exit.

- Shinjuku-sanchome and related red-light districts to the east of the station. It is perfectly harmless to walk around these during the day and marvel at the photo billboards of various male and female escorts on offer as well as the live gangster-types acting shady. While walking around this area should probably not be done with children, for adults the result is far more "cultural interest" than sleaze.

- Tokyo Opera City, (take the Keio New Line subway to Hatsudai station). A skyscraper with a shopping center and art museum that often has interesting multimedia exhibits.

Do
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- Karaokekan, Various locations (one minute walk from Seibushinjuku Line, Seibushinjuku station. Or a 5 minute walk from JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-5285-7007 (fax: 03-5285-7008), [3]. Karaokekan is a large chain of karaoke shops. They have rooms available from one person up to a large party. All you can drink set menus are available.

Spas
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- Boy and Girl Mylord, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-1-3 Mylord 4F (west exit of JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-3349-5720. Boy and Girl is a hair salon where you can also get spa treatments.

- Club on the Park Spa, Park Hyatt Tokyo Hotel, 3-7-1-2 Nishi Shinjuku, +81 03-5322-1234 (reservation.phtokyo@hyattintl.com), [4].

Movies
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- Shinjuku Piccadilly, Shinjuku 3-15-5 (north of exits B7 and B8 of the Tokyo Metro Underground walkway), [5]. Shinjuku Piccadilly is the newest movie theater in Shinjuku. The theater features stadium seating and "platinum" seating. Platinum seating ranges from a semi-private room, including a private lounge (¥5000 per person) to a private room, including a relaxation room (¥30,000 for 2 people). ¥1800.

- Wald 9, Shinjuku 3-1-26 (in Marui's largest building next to Shinjuku Gyoen), +81 03-5369-4955, [6]. Part of the new generation of movie theaters in Tokyo. It features stadium seating, a small gift shop, and clean theaters. ¥1800.

- Cinem@rt, Shinjuku 3-13-3, Shinjuku Building 6,7F (one minute walk from Shinjuku 3 chome station of Tokyo Metro Marunochi line, Fukutoshin line, and the Toei Shinjuku line), +81 03-5369-2831. 335 seats total. Mondays are Men's Days, when men can watch movies for ¥1000. Wednesdays are Ladies' Days, when ladies can watch movies for only ¥1000.

- Kadokawa Cinema Shinjuku, Shinjuku 3-13-3,　Shinjuku Culture Bldg. 4・5F, +81 03-5361-7878, [7]. Old cultural history theater.

Buy
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Department Stores
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- Isetan, Shinjuku 3-14-1 (Exit B3, B4, & B5 from Shinjuku Sanchome Station), +81 03-3352-1111, [8]. Isetan is one of the most popular department stores in Shinjuku. It caters to a broad 20+ age group. It has a beautiful depachika (basement floor selling food and gifts) that is a little more expensive than other department stores in Shinjuku.

- Keio, Nishi-shinjuku 1-1-4 (West Exit and Central West Exit from the JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-3342-2111, [9]. Keio is similar to the Odakyu department store in terms of goods and services. The depachika is smaller and more cramped than Odakyu.

- Lumine, Nishi-shinjuku 1-1-5 (JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-3348-5211, [10]. Lumine has 3 buildings around the JR Shinjuku Station. Lumine 1 and 2 cater to all ages with average priced goods. Both buildings are located at the South Exit. Lumine Est is located at the East Exit and Central East Exit. Lumine Est focuses more on haute fashion for younger women and famous restaurants.

- Marui, Shinjuku 3-1-26 (Various locations located near Shinjuku Sanchome Station), +81 03-3354-0101, [11]. Marui is well known department store known for focusing on the 16-32 year age group. Spread out around Shinjuku Sanchome, the main building is located next to Shinjuku Gyoen. The men's building is located North of the main building and Marui Young is located West of Isetan.

- Mitsukoshi ALCOTT, Shinjuku 3-29-1 (West of Shinjuku Sanchome Station), +81 03-3354-1111, [12]. Mitsukoshi ALCOTT is an upscale department store that caters more towards the upper class shoppers. However, they still have a variety of reasonably priced shops and a large book store occupying the top 3 floors.

- Odakyu, Nishi-shinuku 1-1-3 (West Exit of the JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-3342-1111, [13]. Odakyu is the largest department store on the West side of Shinjuku Station. It caters to the 30+ age group and has various buildings. Mylord is located behind the Keio Department Store and caters to a younger age group. Halc is located South of the West Bus Loop and focuses on sports clothing and electronics (Bic Camera's largest Shinjuku location is within Halc).

- Takashimaya, Sendagaya 5-24-2 (New South Exit and the Southern Terrace Exit from the JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-5361-1111, [14]. Takashimaya is the Southern most department store in Shinjuku located between the JR Shinjuku and JR Yoyogi stations. This department store caters towards the mid-20s and up, along with families. The depachika is comparable to Isetan, but not as famous. Look for Tokyu Hands and Books Kinokuniya at the Southern end of the department store.

Books
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- Bookoff, Various Locations (Go south from the JR Shinjuku Southern Terrace Exit, head down the stairs at the end of the Southern Terrace, and cross the Odakyu train tracks. Alternatively, head out of the North Exit of the JR Yoyogi Station and turn right). 10AM-11PM. Bookoff is a well known second hand book store. They also offer various albums, games, and movies. The closest branch to Shinjuku Station is South of Southern Terrace. Alternatively, (Nishi-shinjuku 7-7-29) you can head North from the West Exit, or (Shinjuku 5-2-1) North of Shinjuku Gyoenmae Station on the Marunouchi Line.

- Books Kinokuniya, (the Main Branch is located between Shinjuku Sanchome and Shinjuku Stations. The South Branch is located South of Takeshimaya close to Yoyogi Station), [15]. Books Kinokuniya is the best book store for foreign language books. The Main Branch is the older of the 2, however, the Southern Branch is bigger and has a greater selection of foreign language books.

- Junkudo, Shinjuku 3-29-1 (Floors 6-8 of Mitsukoshi ALCOTT), +81 03-5363-1300, [16]. Junkudo is a major book store that carries a lot of Japanese language books. Their specialty is carrying hard to find books.

Electronics
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Major discount camera stores are concentrated on both sides of Shinjuku station, although there is a particularly large cluster just outside the West Exit. The undisputed king Yodobashi has branches on practically every block; note that the branches specialize, so you may have to look for the right branch to find what interests you (digital cameras, video cameras, medium-format photography, etc.). The other major names are Sakuraya and Bic. These stores have been transformed by computers and the Internet, and their computer departments match Akihabara in volume, price, and selection.

- Bic Camera, Nishi-shinjuku 1-5-1 (inside Odakyu Halc just outside the JR Shinjuku West Exit), +81 03-5326-1111, [17]. 10AM-9PM. Second-largest electronics shop in Shinjuku. While not as big as Yodobashi Camera, prices and product range is roughly the same. The East side shop, located near Mitsukoshi ALCOTT, next to Books Kinokuniya, is bigger than Yodobashi's East side shop, but still smaller than the West side location.

- Sakuraya, Shinjuku 3-26-10 (across from Lumine EST from the JR Shinjuku East Exit), +81 03-3352-4711, [18]. 10AM-10PM. Sakuraya is mainly located on the East side of Shinjuku station. Their West side location, next to Odakyu department store, is relatively small. They also have a regular branch located within Shinjuku Sanchome, along with a watch shop on Shinjuku-dori and a large Hobby shop behind Shinjuku Piccadilly.

- Yodobashi Camera, Nishi-shinjuku 1-11-1 (2 minutes West of the JR Shinjuku West Exit. Look South-West at the bus stop.), +81 03-3346-1010, [19]. 9:30AM-10PM. Yodobashi is the largest electronics retailer in Shinjuku. The main building is their multimedia centre. They also have a dedicated Games building, Camera building, and Watch building among others. Yodobashi also has a branch on the East side of Shinjuku, across from Lumine EST.

Variety Goods
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- Don Quijote, 1-16-5 Kabuki-cho (on Yasukuni-Dori), [20]. A hectic 24-hour discount store that sells just about everything that you would never imagine needing at three in the morning but might just pick up anyway, such as clothing, bicycles, electronics, jewelry, and gag gifts.

- Tokyu Hands, Sendagaya 5-24-2 (within Takashimaya near the JR Shinjuku New South Exit), +81 03-5361-3111, [21]. This is a large variety goods shop, and if "large" doesn't impress you, you have probably never faced the dilemma which kind of sand to use for your model railway. Because here, you can choose from a dozen kinds of sand alone - from yellow Sahara sand to reddish Nullarbor sand, everything in handy plastic packets. This shop is the best proof that in a rich mega city, there is a clientele for anything. You can buy almost anything you want.

Music
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- Disk Union, Shinjuku 3-31-4 (Main Branch is located near Shinjuku Sanchome Station), +81 03-3352-2697, [22]. You can get music, movies, and music books. They have a large selection of used goods with over 10 locations. Aside from the main branch, other branches specialize in specific genres or goods. This shop is great for music enthusiasts.

- HMV, Shibuya-ku, Sendagaya 5-24-2 (Takashimaya Times Square 12F), +81 03-5361-3060, [23]. HMV is one of the bigger record stores in Japan with a good selection of music and movies. HMV has 2 locations in Shinjuku: one in Takashimaya Times Square and another on the 6th floor of Lumine Est.

- Tower Records, Shinjuku 3-37-1 (Southeast Exit of the JR Shinjuku Station), +81 03-5360-7811, [24]. Tower Records is one of the biggest record stores in Japan. They have any CD or DVD you can imagine, and if not, you can probably order or reserve it.

- Tsutaya, Shinjuku 3-26-14 (East of the JR Shinjuku East Exit. Across from Books Kinokuniya on Shinjuku-dori), 03-5269-6969 (fax: +81 03-5269-6990), [25]. 10AM-2AM. Tsutaya is a major video/music rental store but the Shinjuku shop sells a large variety of music, games, and videos. They also have a decent variety of used products at reduced prices.

- Nishi-Shinjuku 7-chome, (northwest of JR Shinjuku station). Packed with music shops specializing in various genres such as punk and heavy metal. Many sell nothing but bootlegs and collectibles.

Other
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- Between the underground entrance to the Keio department store and the taxi rotary is an area hosting a rotating series of stalls or exhibits. Some recent stalls/exhibits have included various local foods from around Japan, furniture, and information about various government projects around Tokyo.

Eat
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A great way to get by in Tokyo on a budget is to make lunch your main meal. Many restaurants cater to the business lunch crowd and offer an excellent two or three course meal for between ¥800-1300. Going to the same places for dinner would be up to three times more expensive.

Budget
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- The Lumine and Mylord department stores atop the south side of the JR station both have inexpensive restaurant arcades on their upper floors.

- Khao San, Lumine 1, B2F. A good place for Thai street-stall style food. It's always packed and hectic for lunch, with attendants hollering to attract customers.

- Café Haïti, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-19-2 B1F, +81 3-3346-2389. Strong coffee and spicy curry.

- Christon Cafe, Oriental Wave Bldg 8F, 5-17-13 Shinjuku, +81 3-5287-2426, [26]. A great atmosphere for those looking to lounge around on a leather couch surrounded by cathedral lighting, gargoyles, and an array of Christian decor. First class service with price that is hard to believe considering how great the food is, with most mains well under ¥1000. "Amuse" charge of ¥300 per person on top. Very very nice place for somebody on a tight budget that would like to indulge in a top class establishment.

- Doner Kebab Stand, (take the New South exit and walk straight ahead; the stand is on the left side, near the IDC Otsuka furniture store). 11AM-11:30PM. Serves delicious roasted meat with a special Turkish sauce. ¥500.

- Takoyaki Stand, (take the East exits from the station and walk straight ahead). Nearby the McDonald's and Wendy's you'll see a small cart selling this strange but delicious snack: small pieces of octopus mixed into a sort of pancake batter and fried in small spheres. Watch as the elderly vendor liberally applies sauces, scallions and fish flakes. You get six for only ¥500 and it's a terrific snack after a night of sake and beer. Unfortunately there's no seats but no one will fault you for standing there and chowing down.

- Saam-Rot THAI&VIETNAM Cafe Restaurant, Kabukicho 1-2-19, 2F, +81 03-3205-0148, [27]. Original Thai & Vietnamese food.

- Blumare, Shinjuku 3-28-9, Shinjuku Lion Kaikan 3F, +81 03-3352-6606. All-you-can-eat pizza and pasta chain restaurant. Lunch ¥1300.

- Sansyoku-Sansun-Bashi (三尺三寸箸), Nishi-shinjuku 1-1-5, Lumine One 7F, +81 03-5909-5123. All-you-can-eat food. Lunch ¥1800.

Mid-range
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- Okonomiyaki Wahaha Fugetsu (お好み焼き わっはっはっ風月), [28]. The Japanese favorite okonomiyaki, done Osaka-style.

- Botejyu, Tokyo, Shinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 1, Subnade B1, +81 03-3348-5322, [29]. 11AM-10:30PM (Last order 10PM). Botejyu is an okonomiyaki shop that sells a variety of okonomiyaki. They also have various yaki-soba dishes. Beware that at times, this restaurant can be busy with wait times of up to 30 min.

- Juttoku (十徳), New Sentora Bldg B1F, 1-5-12 Nishi-Shinjuku, +81 3-3342-0339, [30]. M-Sa 4PM-12AM, Su 4PM-4AM. This izakaya has an excellent selection of sake.

- The Lockup, Kabuki-cho 1-16-3, Shinjuku Square Bldg 6-7F, +81 3-5272-7055. 5PM-5AM. A Shinjuku original that has since spawned several branches elsewhere in Tokyo. It has a hybrid prison/dungeon/horror movie theme: customers are led to tables inside stone cells by waitresses in plastic-miniskirt police uniforms, where they are "locked up" and given menus filled with bizarre drinks (the most well-known of which consists of a rack of test tubes filled with flavored syrups, a flask full of alcohol, and a beaker to mix everything in) and relatively normal food. Twice every night, a "jailbreak" is staged in which the lights go out and costumed hoodlums scare the living daylights out of random patrons.

- Kappō Nakajima (割烹 中島), Shinjuku 3-32-5 basement. Closed Sundays. Specializes in sardine dishes. Yanagawa teishoku is deep-fried sardines with scrambled eggs on rice (it tastes better than it sounds).

- Shunka Shuto (春花秋灯), 53rd floor of Tokyo Opera City (see above), +81 3-5353-7111. Enjoy the view while dining on seafood and other specialties of Hokkaido.

- Yanbaru (やんばる), Shinjuku 3-23-6 (north of Kabukicho exit), +81 3-3353-2028. There's nothing pretentious about this restaurant specializing in Okinawan food, which emphasizes pork and vegetables that are unusual even to Honshu Japanese. Recommend is beni imo (¥450), tempura-style sweet potato; and hechima misoni (¥600), an eggplant-like vegetable served in a strongly fermented miso sauce. A picture menu is available.

- There's a cluster of interesting ethnic restaurants on the south side of Koshu-Kaido-dori, to the west of the station.

- Rose de Sahara, +81 3-3379-6427. Offers fried alligator and other African foods.

- España, +81 3-3379-1159. In the same building, has good paella.

- Court Lodge, +81 3-3376-7733. A few buildings away on the ground floor; serves spicy dishes of Sri Lanka.

- Bosphorus Hasan, Shinjuku 3-6-11 2F, +81 3-3354-7947, [31]. Open everyday, including national holidays; 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5PM-11:30PM. Authentic Turkish food.

- Din Tai Fung, Sendagaya 5-24-2, Takashimaya 12F, +81 03-5361-1381. 10AM-10PM, closed Wednesdays. Tokyo branch of the renowned Taiwan dim sum restaurant; speciality is the dumplings.

- Brusca, 107 Yarai-cho, Hosoya Bldg 2F (Tozai line, Kagurazaka station, exit 1), +81 03-6457-5788, [32]. 11:30AM-2:30PM, 6PM-midnight. Excellent Italian bruschetta, bread topped with a variety of meat, cheese, vegetables and herbs. Wide selection of bottled beers, and 6 beers on tap. Second restaurant opened by the enthusiastic Stefano. ¥800-1000 for one bruschetta.

Splurge
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- Torafugu-Tei (とらふぐ亭), Kabukicho 2-11-7 Metro Bldg. B1F. Specializing in the infamous fugu (blowfish), it's one of the huge number of seafood restaurants in Kabukicho (see below). Set dinners go for around ¥5000, featuring fugu prepared five or six ways, fresh from the tank.

Drink
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The Kabukichō (歌舞伎町) district, to the northeast of JR Shinjuku station, is Tokyo's most notorious red-light district - although during the daytime you might not even notice, especially if you can't decode the elaborate Japanese codewords on the billboards. At night it's a different story though, as sharkskin-suited junior yakuza gangsters hustle and girls in miniskirts beckon customers amid the adults-only vending machines. Night or day, it's always packed with people, and until recently quite a bit of gangland violence went on in the vicinity (though at any rate outsiders are generally not involved).

To the south of Kabuki-cho is Shinjuku ni-chome (新宿２丁目), Tokyo's largest gay district.

Golden Gai (ゴールデン街) is the name given to a few narrow alleys in a block on the east edge of Kabukicho. It's packed with tiny aging "hole-in-the-wall" bars and started as a red light district some decades ago; morphing into some sort of a subversive hangout; and finally now into an odd assortment of tiny bars (some up very steep steps.) The irony of the place is that while it has become somewhat of a tourist attraction, many of the bars rely on regulars, so strangers wandering in may receive either a frosty reception, cover charge or both. If the door is open and you get a smile go in, it's an experience not to be had anywhere else. Many of the bars have karaoke and ancient mama-sans, while one has an old man who speaks Spanish and plays flamenco videos on a tiny black and white TV, and who occasionally plays guitar; another has a great collection of jazz music. Some places charge extra for karaoke with coin machines or a surcharge added to the bill while others, such as Bar K, have it available for free. Be aware that commercial photography in some parts of the Golden Gai is prohibited without permission.

- Araku, Golden Gai St #2 2FL, +81 03-5272-1651, [33]. Australian-run, considerably larger and can be less intimidating than many other Golden Gai establishments.

- Bar K. Always welcoming of foreigners with beers. ¥1000 mini long neck.

- Rock Bar: Mother. Has an extensive collection of Punk and Metal CDs for those looking for some alternative rock.

- Champions (Coin Bar), just before the Golden Gai entrance and slightly west as you head back towards Kabuki-cho. Sells all drinks for 500 yen and is staffed mostly by Filipinas who speak excellent English.

On the west side of the Yamanote tracks, Omoide Yokochō (思い出横丁, "Memory Lane") is a small alley filled with yakitori joints. Omoide Yokochō is also sometimes referred to as gokiburi yokochō (cockroach alley) or shomben yokochō (piss alley - no prizes for guessing why).

Once you get beyond Omoide Yokochō into the skyscrapers of West Shinjuku, the nightlife pretty much dies out, with the solitary exception of what is probably Tokyo's best-known bar among foreigners:

- New York Bar & Grill, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1 (Park Hyatt Tokyo), +81 03-5323-3458, [34]. Daily 5PM-midnight. One of the main sets for Lost in Translation, this slick joint on the 52th floor has dark decor and floor-to-ceiling windows with jaw-dropping vistas, with live jazz nightly. Eating a steak here would cost you well north of ¥10,000 per head, but you can nurse a beer for a mere ¥1000 or, "for relaxing times", try out Bill Murray's 17-year-old Suntory Hibiki for ¥2,300. Cover charge ¥2000 after 8PM (Sun 7PM).

Clubs
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Oddly, there are few nightclubs left in Shinjuku, perhaps due to the price of real estate. Liquid Room, once one of the Tokyo's best-known party places, decamped to Ebisu several years ago.

- Casablanca, J2 Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, [35]. A two level nightclub and lounge with a large dance floor and darts. The DJ normally spins hip-hop, R&B, reggae, and house, and there are live house performances periodically through the night.

- Loft/Plus One (ロフトプラスワン), Hiyashi Bldg B2F, Kabukicho 1-14-7 (Off Chuo-dori opp. Koma Theatre), [36]. Shows at 2PM, 7:30PM, and midnight. Performance art space meets bar run with a simple concept: different people and groups rent a block of time and do whatever they want to. The end result runs from stand-up comedy and lectures to porn star photo shoots and incredibly violent live S&M. Erotic shows 18+ only (ID required). Tickets ¥1000-6000 (discounts for advance purchase).

- Oto, [37]. Upscale club of mostly locals that have live jazz bands and DJ's. Music ranges from jazz, electro, to Euro rock.

- Tokyo Loose, 2-37-3 Kabuki-cho, Marutomo Bldg B1, +81 03-3207-5677, [38]. Small bar full of Men. It's not easy to find, so call for directions.

Cafes
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- Bun The world of coffee, Shijuku-ku Shinjuku 3-15-17, Isetan Bl.1F, +81 03-3354-7226. Specialty coffee store feeling, with coffee styles from 15 countries.

- Doutor, Various locations, [39]. Doutor is a relatively "salary man" coffee shop. You will see lots of business men within this shop. Expect most shops to be all smoking, or only 2-3 seats for a non-smoking section. ¥200-450 for drinks.

- Excelsior Caffe, Various locations, [40]. Excelsior Caffe and Doutor are the same company, however Excelsior Caffe caters to a younger, more feminine crowd. Most shops tend to have a better non-smoking section, however smoking still occupies the majority of the cafe's seating area. Thankfully, bigger shops have smoking and non-smoking on different floors. ¥280-460 for drinks.

- Pronto, Various locations, see website and click on 店舗リスト, [41]. opens around 7AM, closes around 5:30PM. The bar is usually opened within minutes. Pronto is a very relaxed cafe/bar that is a cafe during the day. They offer premium style drinks. ¥200-400 for drinks.

- Segafredo ZANETTI, 3 locations near Shinjuku Station, [42]. Segafredo is a somewhat upscale style cafe that has various locations near Shinjuku. Segafredo tends to have a darker atmosphere akin to Pronto. ¥280-500 for drinks.

- Starbucks Coffee, Shinjuku has 22 Starbucks Coffee shops, [43].

- Shinjuku Dianne Bldg 3-36-6 (one minute from Shinjuku station by walk, 8 minutes from Seibu-shinjuku station by walk; between OIOIcity and Flags), +81 03-3353-4775.

- Shinjuku Green Tower, Nishi-shinjuku 6-14-1 (4 minutes from Nishi-shinjuku station by walk, 6 minutes from Tochomae station by walk, 10 minutes from Shinjuku station by walk; near the Hilton Hotel), +81 03-3342-7737.

- Canal Cafe, 1-9 Kagurazaka (Iidabashi station, JR west exit or subway exit B2A), +81 3-3260-8068 (fax: +81 3-3260-8052), [44]. 11:30AM-9:30PM, until 11PM on weekend. Closed Mondays or the day following a holiday. Located in the far east of Shinjuku City in the Kagurazaka district. With views remarkable for Tokyo, Canal Cafe consists of a separate restaurant and cafe situated alongside a canal. The open-air cafe has great ambiance. At the restaurant figure ¥6000-9000 for dinner, but at the café, which is a long patio-like dock, drinks and snacks are purchased at the bar and can be quite reasonable.

Pubs and taverns
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- The Dubliners, Shinjuku 3-28-9 (two minutes from JR east exit), +81 03-3352-6606. Down a pint of Guinness and mingle with the local expats.

- The Hub, [45]. Popular chain of English pubs. Have some fish and chips with your pint at one of four Shinjuku locations.

- 1-6-1 Kabukicho, Shirou Building B1, +81 03-5155-2622.

- 1-22-8 Kabukicho, Kojimaya Building B1, +81 03-3208-1462.

- 1-3-17 Nishi-Shinjuku, Aoi Building B1, +81 03-3345-5310.

- 3-36-15 Shinjuku, Uchino building B1 & 6F, +81 03-5379-1949.

- Marone, (Unfortunately the address (in English) is incredibly difficult to find, but luckily it's only a few doors down from the famous restaurant Tsunahachi (east of the station). Look for their chalkboard outside a non-descript building and then go up to 2F). Tucked away in this tiny cubbyhole of a space is one of the most interesting small bars in Tokyo. A country western theme with Chet Baker and Nat King Cole pouring from the stereo. The food is cheap and superbly done (think chili nachos and the like); beer and spirits are also available. The place is tiny but it attracts a great mix of young groups of friends and office workers. Be forewarned though: some nights Marone puts on live music and cover charges are upwards of ¥4000! The older couple who run the bar are terrifically friendly but their English is minimal.

- Vagabond, 1-4-20 Nishi Shinjuku (In west Shinjuku, in the 2nd alley behind (north of) Odakyu Halc, Shinjuku), +81 03-3348-9109. A great little pub with two floors. The first floor is a little more private while the top floor is a very cozy jazz bar with live music and a good selection of finger foods cooked right at the bar for you. Caution to taller travelers: it's a little cramped at the bar.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Sakura Hotel Hatagaya, 32-3 Hatagaya Shibuya-ku, +81 3-3469-5211 (fax: +81 3-3468-4307), [46]. Just 2 stations (3 min.) to Shinjuku. Affordable hotel accommodation in central Tokyo. Staff can speak English. Single rooms ¥6930, double rooms ¥9000, twin & triple room with breakfast..

- Tama Ryokan, 1-25-33 Takadanobaba, +81 3-3209-8062 (fax: +81 3-3209-8068), [47]. There is a lounge for relaxing and internet access. Three-minute walk from Takadanobaba Station. Prices for one person no higher than ¥4,500, and the prices drop if more than 1 person stays per room.

- Ten Ten Guesthouse, Takadanobaba, +81 070-5652-8628, [48]. The cheapest youth hostel in Tokyo. Don't expect too much for the price. Cockroaches included. The manager manages 6 of these guesthouses, all the same price, same style. Price for a dorm bed starts with ¥1,200 (per day for 1 month stay), ¥1,400 (per day/1 week stay), up to ¥1,600 (2-6 nights).

- Tokyo International Hostel, 1-1 Kagurakashi, +81 3-3235-1107 (fax: +81 3-3267-4000), [49]. Located on the 18th and 19th floors of a high-rise in Shinjuku, with great views over the city (including a hot tub and baths overlooking the lights and skyscrapers of Shinjuku) and comfortable rooms.

- Manboo Internet & Comic Cafe. Internet cafe that has small, private rooms to crash out in. Rooms have a comfortable reclining chair (or a "flat seat" option), internet, TV, and headphones. Free soft drinks and coffee are provided and there's also a shower room/toilet and toiletries on sale. ¥1,800.

- Green Plaza Capsule Hotel, [50]. Not a bad capsule hotel, though it runs a little more expensive than most of its kind. They will take foreigners as long as they don't make fools of themselves. Remove your shoes on entry. ¥4200.

- Ace Inn Shinjuku, [51]. Capsule Hotel near Akebonobashi Station. On the ninth floor there is a common space with vending machines and TV, where you can meet with the other guests from all over the world. Internet connection via WiFi in the whole building or PC on the ground level is free. English speaking staff. Rooms from ¥3150, long term discount starting from 1 week.

Mid-Range
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- Hotel Sunlite Shinjuku, +81 03-3356-0391 (fax: +81 03-3356-1223), [52]. Singles start at ¥8,715; doubles at ¥12,075 per night. Discounts are offered if you refer to their web page.

- Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku, 2-3-1 Yoyogi, +81 3-3375-3211, [53]. Includes a restaurant, a bar, and massage parlor. Located just 2 minutes walking from Shinju-ku station south exit. Recommended for taller guests. Prices range ¥14000 and up.

- New City Shinjuku, 4-31-1 Nishi-shinjuku, 66 3 836 4700. Located in a tranquil spot across Shinjuku Central Park from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building, this hotel has clean rooms with nice views of the skyscraper district, two decent onsite restaurants for the truly lazy, and a free shuttle bus to and from Shinjuku station. Singles start at ¥9500.

- Shinjuku Prince Hotel, Kabushigi-cho 1-30-1, +81 03-3205-1111, [54]. Includes restaurants, a bakery, and salon.

- Tokyu Stay Yotsuya, 2-1 Yotsuya, +81 03-3354-0109 (fax: +81 03-3354-0191), [55]. Part of the Tokyu Stay chain, these hotels are popular with business travelers. The small kitchenettes, washer/dryers, and free LAN access in all rooms makes these a good value. Singles start at ¥9,450; doubles at ¥17,850 per night. Slight discounts are offered for extended stays.

Splurge
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The western side of Shinjuku has a notable concentration of luxury hotels.

- Four Seasons Tokyo. With only 57 rooms, some them the largest in the city, plus a stunning gym with amazing views, it's no wonder why it's Tokyo's most expensive hotel.

- Hyatt Regency Tokyo, 2-7-2 Nishi-Shinjuku (close to Shinjuku Station), +81 03-3348-1234 (tokyo.regency@hyatt.com), [56]. 744 rooms and suites with views of Mt Fuji and Shinjuku Central Park. Regency Club lounge for free continental breakfast, tea service and evening cocktails. Hosts a roof-top pool and healh spa.

- Keio Plaza Hotel, 2-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, +81 03-3344-0111, [57]. Less than 10 minutes by foot from Shinjuku Station, has rooms that face the Shinjuku Metropolitan Government office.

- Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, +81 03-5322-1234, [58]. Towering above the rest literally and figuratively, this hotel is best known for featuring prominently in the movie Lost in Translation. Surprisingly intimate in feel, one of the standout features is the 47th-floor "Club on the Park" pool with floor-to-ceiling views of Shinjuku at night. Service and amenities are superlative, but rates are astronomical even by Japanese standards. Singles starting at ¥50,000.

Rentals
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- Sakura House, Nishi-Shinjuku K-1 Bldg 2F, 7-2-6, +81 3-5330-5250 (info@sakura-house.com), [59]. If you plan on staying in Tokyo for a month or more you might want to check this place out.

Contact
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- Tokyo Tourist Information Center, on the 1st floor of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building 1, [60]. 9:30AM-6PM daily. A good source of information on not just Tokyo but all of Japan. This office is geared for foreign visitors, so all materials are in languages other than Japanese and all staff speak English.

Get out
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- Shibuya is located 3 stations south of Shinjuku on the Yamanote Line.

- Ikebukuro is located 3 stations north of Shinjuku on the Yamanote Line.

- Mitaka is located West along the Chuo Line. It is the home of the Ghibli Museum.

- Hachioji is a suburban city of Tokyo located west of Shinjuku along the Keio Line and Chuo Line, with access to Takao-san, a popular mountain for hiking or just escaping the urban sprawl for a day.

- Hakone is a popular area for onsens and easily accessible by the Odakyu Line.

District Shibuya Table of Contents

• Understand

Get In

By plane

By train

• See

Museums

• Do

• Buy

Anime & Manga

Fashion

Music

Other

• Eat

• Drink

Cafes

Pubs

Izakaya

Nightclubs

• Sleep

• Get out

Understand
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Most of the action in Shibuya is in the hectic blocks to the northwest of the JR station. The best place to get oriented is the Hachikō (ハチ公) exit, which opens onto the five-way "scramble crossing" under the giant video screen. From left to right at the edges of the square are...

1. Keio Inokashira line station

2. Dōgenzaka (道玄坂) slope

3. 109 building

4. Bunkamura-dōri (文化村通り) street

5. Center-gai (センター街 Sentaa-gai) street

6. Q-FRONT building featuring a large Starbucks and the monstrous video screen

7. Koen-dōri (公園通り) street

1. Inokashira-dōri (井の頭通り), branching to the left after the Seibu Department Store

8. 109-2 building

9. JR line tracks to Harajuku.

The area to the south of the station is bounded by a highway, so there's not much more than bus terminals (on both sides) and the Tokyu Plaza department store.

The two major roads heading east from the station continue to Aoyama and Roppongi.

Get In
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By plane
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One-seat train service is available from Narita Airport to Shibuya on the Narita Express. Trains run every 30-60 minutes and make the run to Shibuya in 70 minutes at a cost of ¥3110, or ¥3500 with the Suica & N'EX Combination Ticket for foreigners. Alternatively you can take the Keisei Skyliner to Nippori station and change to the JR Yamanote Line (approx. 75 minutes, ¥2690).

Budget travelers can take a regular Keisei limited express from Narita Airport to Nippori and change to the Yamanote Line (approx. 110 minutes, ¥1190). In the evenings, faster Access Tokkyu trains from Narita Airport to Nippori shave 20 minutes off the overall travel time against an extra charge of ¥200.

Airport limousine buses run from Narita to the Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu and the Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel (90-120 min, ¥3000).

From Haneda Airport, Shibuya can be reached by taking the Keikyu Airport Line to Shinagawa and changing to the JR Yamanote Line (approx. 35 minutes, ¥560). Limousine buses also run from Haneda to the hotels listed above (One hour, ¥1000).

By train
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Shibuya's station is a notoriously convoluted web of passageways. Follow the signage and you should find your way out (or in).

- JR Yamanote Line, Saikyo Line, Shonan-Shinjuku Line

- Tokyu Toyoko Line, Den-en-toshi Line

- Keio Inokashira Line

- Tokyo Metro Ginza Line (G01), Hanzomon Line (Z01), Fukutoshin Line (F16)

You can also walk to Ebisu and Harajuku (where you could catch JR Yamanote Line trains), and Omotesando (where you could catch Tokyo Metro Lines).

The Tokyu Toyoko line is the cheapest and most convenient way to visit Yokohama. Eventually in 2012, through service will start to the Fukutoshin subway line; when this happens, a new underground station at nearby Daikanyama will open, and the current Tokyu Toyoko platforms at Shibuya and Daikanyama will be abandoned.

There are many exits.

- Toyoko: exit to Omotesando, and Hachikou.

- JR: exit to Hachikou, and Moyai(fastest transfer to Toyoko)

- Den-en-toshi & Hanzomon: exit to Hachikou, and Omotesando.

See
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A symbol of loyalty

Hachikō, an Akita dog, was born in 1923 and sold to a well to do family in Tokyo while still a puppy. The father of this family, Eisaburo Ueno, a Tokyo University professor in his 50's, loved Hachiko very much and doted on him constantly, taking him for long walks, always brushing him, and even taking baths with him inside the home. He treated him truly as one of the family.

Up until Hachiko was two years old, he always walked to the station with the father and after the father went through the stalls he would go home by himself. But, then he would return every day to wait outside the stalls to meet the father coming home. All the locals and train station people knew this man and this dog had a special bond.

One day however, the father died while he was teaching at the university. Hachiko went to pick him up but he never came. And, Hachiko never stopped waiting. Every day for about 10 or 11 years he went and waited. The story was picked up and popularized by Japanese newspapers, and Hachiko became a minor celebrity while he still lived, attending the inauguration of his own statue in 1934. He passed away the next year, but his story lives on — and you can still pay him a visit in the collections of the National Science Museum in Ueno.

- Hachikō (ハチ公). A diminutive statue of a dog tucked away in one corner of the big plaza outside the station, best known as a meeting place and for the story (see box). It is also the name of one of the many exits from Shibuya Station and the prime meeting place before a night out. Just hanging out near Hachiko for a while will give you some great people-watching opportunities.

- Center Gai (センター街 Sentaa-gai). The narrow street leading away from the station to the left of the giant video screen, it's famous as the birthplace of many of Japan's youth fashion trends. Center Gai is jam-packed with clothing stores, music stores, and video game arcades. This is a great place to stroll and feel the Shibuya vibe.

- Bunkamura. Bunkamura-dori. A complex featuring an excellent art museum, in addition to theaters for film and stage plays. On the basement floor there's an art and design bookstore as well as a branch of Paris' famous Les Deux Magots café.

Museums
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Shibuya has a small collection of famously offbeat museums.

- Tobacco and Salt Museum (たばこと塩の博物館 Tabako to Shio no Hakubutsukan), Jinnan 1-1 6-8 (on Koen-dori), [2]. This peculiar institution owes its existence to Japan's peculiar government monopoly on these two substances. The website advises that "dangerous substances are not permitted within the museum".

- TEPCO Electric Energy Museum (電力館 Denryokukan), Jinnan 1-12-10 (on Koen-dori), [3]. Th-Tu 10AM-6PM. A giant multi-story propaganda exercise courtesy of the Tokyo Electric Power Company (TEPCO), primarily devoted to extolling the virtues of nuclear energy. Well done if often more than slightly cheesy exhibits, many of them hands-on, and a great place for kids. Since the nuclear disaster in Fukushima on March 11, 2011 that TEPCO has been incapable of getting under control, the museum has been closed. No date has been given for when (or if) they may reopen it. Free.

Do
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There are movie theaters and electronics stores nearby.

Buy
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Shibuya has lots and lots of interesting shopping opportunities. It's the home of the huge Tokyu conglomerate (railways, department stores, hotels, housing developments), and thus practically every major store in the area has Tokyu in its name.

Anime & Manga
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- Mandarake, BEAM B2F, Udagawa 31-2, [4]. Massive shop devoted to manga, anime, hentai, dojinshi, figurines and collectible offshoots.

- NHK Studio Park, Jinnan 2-2-1 (end of Koen-dori), [5]. Studio sightseeing operation run by the national broadcaster NHK, home to a gift shop selling the widest collection of Domo-kun figures on the planet.

Fashion
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Shibuya is the center of Japanese youth culture and it shows.

- PARCO, [6]. Two 11 story buildings home to youth culture and fashion.

- 0101 (Marui), [7].

- 109 Building (Ichi-maru-kyu), [8].

Music
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Shibuya has copious music shopping opportunities, but expect some sticker shock as Japanese CDs often clock in at ¥3000+; imports are usually cheaper! In addition to the superstores below, also check out the miniature alternative ghetto (Jinnan 11 and nearby, just past Tokyu Hands), full of tiny specialist record shops.

- Disk Union, Antenna 21, Udagawa 30-7 (Center-gai), [9]. Used and new record dealer with floors each specializing in punk, rock, jazz and dance music.

- HMV, Udagawa 24-1 (off Inogashira-dori), [10]. Six floors of music from all around the world.

- RECOfan, BEAM 4F, Udagawa 31-2 (and other outlets incl. one on Center-gai), [11]. Good shopping for second-hand music in this cavernous hall: all records are categorized and alphabetized for quick browsing, and prices start at ¥100.

- Tower Records, Jinnan 1-22-14 (Koen-dori), [12]. For a while the largest record store in the world, now merely mind-bogglingly huge. Good selection of English books and magazines on the top floor, in addition to 6 other floors of J-pop, Western rock, jazz, classical and DVDs.

- For musical equipment, there's a good cluster of shops just southwest of the JR station. (Take the pedestrian overpass to cross the highway.)

Other
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- Harley Davidson Tokyo. Right up the hill from Tokyu Hands is a small street that branches off Center-gai, where you will find this Harley store. They offer t-shirts for people who collect Harley Davidson shirts. As of August 2009, this store has closed.

- Tokyu Hands, (end of Center-gai), [13]. Promoted as "Creative Life Store", Tokyu Hands has everything from do-it-yourself, interior, hobby, crafts, outdoors to stationery and more. The Shibuya store spans eight floors.

- SBY, (in 109 building, on the eighth floor), [14]. If you fill out a questionnaire, you can get 3 kind of things. It's a free. And you can put on makeup free.

- Loft, (near Tokyu building), [15]. Loft is Seibu's answer to Tokyu Hands, also offering a large array of products related to interior, hobby, crafts and gifts, but with a slightly less strong emphasis on do-it-yourself. The Loft Shibuya branch consists of seven floors.

Eat
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You can't turn around without spotting a handful of restaurants here-- from ¥100 noodles to top notch gourmet food.

- Kujiraya, Dogenzaka 2-29-22 (Bunkamura-dori, just past 109, opposite Baskin-Robbins.), +81 03-3461-9145, [16]. The specialty and only food here is whale meat dishes, which are very rare elsewhere. Don't forget to pick up a pro-whaling propaganda pamphlet on your way out. Lunch sets from ¥1300, dinner ¥2000 up.

- Kyotako, (right next to Tokyu Hands). A famous store for takoyaki octopus balls.

- Murghi, Dogenzaka 2-19-2, +81 03-3461-8809. closed Fridays and Thursday evenings. Founded in 1951, when the owner decided to serve the kind of curry he had enjoyed in Burma before World War II.

- Tokyu Department Store, (right on top of the train station). A superb food section in the basement with enough free samples to make a full lunch, if you don't mind not having a place to sit.

- Gonpachi, 3-6 Maruyama-cho Shibuya-ku 14F (halfway between Shibuya station and Inokashira Line's Shinsen station), +81 03-5784-2011, [17]. Main restaurant 11:30AM-3:30AM, sushi bar 11:30AM-2PM and 5PM-2AM. Trendy eatery specializing in soba, with a separate sushi bar in the back.

- Kua'aina, 1-10-4 Shibuya (off of Omotesando), +81 03-3409-3200, [18]. 10AM-11PM. Hawaiian hamburgers, order-at-the counter from a picture menu with English. Meal sets are available for ¥1030-920, higher after 5PM.

- Criston Cafe, Dogenzaka 2-10-7, New Mainstay Bldg 2 Bldg B1, +81 03-5728-2225. English name is "Christian Cafe", this gothic-themed bar/restaurant is filled with altars, shrines, candles and crosses.

- Tokyo Bellini Caffe, 20-15 Udagawa-cho (8F Humax pavilion Shibuya park-dori), +81 03-5489-1371, [19]. Lunch 11AM-4PM, Tea 4PM-5PM, Dinner 5PM-11PM. This is a casual Italian restaurant. There are many kind of delicious pastas and lunch which is changed weekly.

- Pakuch!, to the left of the Shibuya Mark City building (on the street that runs between the East and West wings). This is a local hamburger restaurant that serves excellent and filling burgers. Also doubles as a bar. Much better than fast food. Burgers range from ¥800-1500.

- SWEETS PARADISE (スイーツパラダイス), Chitose kaikan 1F, 13-8 Udagawacho Shibuyaku (3 minutes walk from Hachiko exit, JR Shibuya station), +81 03-3463-8525, [20]. 11AM-10PM daily. This is a buffet style restaurant. You can eat as much as you can. There are a lot of sweets such as cakes, pies, yogurt, jelly, and some Japanese sweets like dumpling, anko, warabimochi, and so on. And there are not only sweets but also some pastas, sandwiches, curry and rice, and salad, so it's good for lunch and dinner. Cheap and delicious. ¥1,480, child ¥840.

- Sakanatei (酒菜亭), Shibuya, Dogenzaka 2-23-1, Koike Building 4F (A quick walk along Bunkamura-dori and across from Tokyu Department Store), 03-3780-1313, [21]. 5:30PM-1:30AM; closed Su and holidays. Really friendly staff at this izakaya serve up specialities from Shizuoka and fine sake from around Japan.

- kyosuzu(広尾京寿々), Shibuya, Hiroo 3-17-1-1F,13 minutes for JR and Hibiya line Ebisu station (East), +81 03-6418-1278, [22]. Lunch time12:00~15:00,Dinner time18:00~24:00. This restaurant main Japanese dishes.A characteristic,craftsman made with particular feelings. Rice ball from ¥630-.

Drink
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Shibuya is a major center for nightclubs, music, and dancing.

Cafes
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- Cafe Apres-Midi (カフェ・アプレミディ), 1-15-7 Jinnan４F (10 min. north of Shibuya station), +81 03-5428-5121, [23]. Jazzy cafe with 60s decor in moody lighting. Excellent food, try the quiche, although portions are small

- M/13 Cafe, 1-16-14 Metoro Plaza, 2F (east side of JR station, north along tracks), +81 3-5766-9111. Well-lit cafe with large second-floor windows, serving light meals, coffee and drinks.

- The Pink Cow, 1-3-18 Shibuya (midway between Shibuya and Omote-Sando, across from Aoyama Park Tower), +81 3-3406-5597, [24]. Artsy cafe-bar-restaurant catering to the young foreigner crowd, with regular English-language events such as improv comedy.

Pubs
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- The Aldgate, Shiniwasaki Bldg 3F, Udagawacho 30-4, +81 03-3462-2983, [25]. 6PM-2AM. Down to earth smoke-free British-style pub, with a large number of Japanese and international beers on tap and a large collection of British Rock music on vinyl.

- The Dubliners, 2F, 2-29-8 Dogenzaka, +81 03-5459-1736. An Irish pub popular among foreigners.

- Hobgoblin Shibuya, Ichiban Bldg 3F, 1-3-11, Dogenzaka, +81 03-6415-4244. 4PM to late (weekdays), noon to late (weekends and holidays), last order 10:45PM. Outlet of the famous British micro-brewer Wychwood Brewery.

- Craftheads, 1-13-10 Jinnan, B1, +81 03-6416-9474, [26]. 5PM-midnight. Remarkable section of imported craft beers, and some domestic ones as well. Free WiFi. High ceilings, modern wood-and-concrete ambiance. Even pricier than the typical imported brew pub.

Izakaya
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There are plenty of cheap and cheerful chain izakayas (Japanese pubs) scattered about Shibuya. Look for for the Watami and Uotami chains.

- Magically shielded from decades of commercial development, Nonbei-yokochō (のんべい横丁) is a narrow alley running alongside the east side of the Yamanote tracks just north of the station. It's packed with traditional yakitori taverns as well as some modern, extremely tiny bars. The district was formed in 1955, and a few of the shops have been operating since then.

- Tengu, 25-3 Udagawa-cho (B1; in an alley between Center-gai and Inokashira-dori). 5PM-midnight. Tengu is a part of a popular izakaya chain, which stands out from the rest mainly because they have an English menu.

- Kaji Maru, 28-1 Udagawa-cho (on a cross street between Bunkamura-dori and Center-gai, 2F), +81 03-3463-1717. M-Th 6PM-3AM, F Sa 6PM-5AM, Su 6PM-midnight. Kaji Maru is an atmospheric and smallish Asian-fusion izakaya one floor above the hubbub of Shibuya. An English menu is available. Individual plates ¥580-700. Draft beer ¥500, table charge ¥300..

- The Lock Up, 33-1 Udagawa-cho (just off Center-gai, Shibuya Grand Tokyo Bldg B2F), +81 03-5728-7731. M-Th 5PM-1AM, F Sa 5PM-5AM, Su 5AM-midnight. Even if you have no plans to eat, check out the approach to this theme izakaya, a long hallway more like a haunted house than the entrance to a restaurant. Inside you'll find a dungeon theme eatery featuring test tube cocktails, food with brutal names, uniformed mini-skirt-staff, handcuffs and prison breaks. Tell the staff it's your birthday for an extra special surprise! Plates range ¥400-¥820, draft beer ¥500.

- Hatago, 2-28-5 Dogenzaka (B1; along Dogenzaka street, about 200 m beyond the 109 Bldg). This is a stylish and somewhat upscale izakaya that accommodates foreign customers with a handwritten English menu. Try the baked miso eggplant, ¥650. Draft beer ¥630, table charge ¥250; expect to pay around ¥3000 per person for a reasonable meal including drinks.

- Happy Dining Ghetto, Center Building 3F, 25-5 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku. Serves izakaya-style fare: lots of fried food, including chiizuage (fried cheese), spicy French fries, edamame, pizza, and lots of foods with mayo! Asian fusion dinners served, but a bit on the pricy side (3000 yen). Bar with extensive drink selection. American hip-hop plays overhead while the music videos play on monitors scattered about. Lots of fun, but know that it caters to the young, club-hopping Shibuya crowd.

Nightclubs
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If Shibuya's clubs aren't enough, hop on a free shuttle bus (first come, first served) to Ageha, Tokyo's largest nightclub. Buses depart from the crossing of Roppongi-dori and Meiji-dori, opposite Shibuya police station, on the east ("wrong") side of Shibuya station.

- Camelot, [27]. Multi-room nightclub that plays a mix of hip-hop, r&b, and techno/house in their different areas. Most of the clientele is of a younger crowd (ages 20-25). Friday's entrance fee is only ¥1000 (incl. two drinks).

- Club Air, B2 Hikawa Bldg, 2-11 Sarugaku, +81 03-6145-6231, [28]. Made a brief appearance in the movie Lost in Translation.

- Club Atom, +81 03-5428-5195, [29]. Owned by Vanilla, this club houses three dance floors with music ranging from psychedelic trance to hip-hop. Entrance fee is only ¥1000 before 12 o'clock.

- Club Asia, Dogenzaka, [30]. Popular for trance music all night long.

- Harlem, 2-4 Tuburayama-cho, +81 03-3461-8806, [31]. Large two-floor all hip-hop club. Foreigners may not be admitted unless they bring along a Japanese friend.

- Shibuya Nuts, [32]. Considerably smaller than the above mentioned nightclubs, has a good reputation among the hip-hop crowd in Tokyo and features occasional live performances.

- Vuenos, (across the street from Club Asia), [33]. Owned by the same folks as Club Asia, and dedicated rap and r&b club with occasional live dance and rap performances.

- Womb, Dogenzaka, [34]. One of Tokyo's largest clubs, designed by the people behind New York's Twilo and the setting of a scene in Babel. Entrance is fairly steep at ¥3500, usually without any drinks included.

- Rock West. A smaller, friendly club that specialised in underground techno, fairly well hidden on 7F of an office building. It`s certainly one of the cheaper spots in the area. Cover charge of ¥1000 and most drinks around ¥500.

- Rock no Cocoro. Playing Indie, 'UK-Rock' and various themed nights including girl music and metal, this is characterized by the various touring rock bands that have passed through and signed the beer coasters that line the wall. No cover charge, and most drinks around ¥600.

Sleep
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Accommodation options in Shibuya are surprisingly limited. The hillside to the left of Dogenzaka is also known as Love Hotel Hill and indeed contains dozens of love hotels, although they're on the expensive side: figure on at least ¥10000 for an overnight "stay".

- Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel, 26-1 Sakuragaoka-cho, +81 03-3476-3000, [35]. A popular high-end hotel near the JR station. Also contains a large office complex, as well as some very expensive restaurants. ¥33000.

- Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu, [36]. A popular high-end hotel in the Mark City building.

- Tokyu Stay Shibuya, 8-14 Shinsen-cho, +81 03-3477-1091 (fax: +81 03-3477-1092), [37]. Part of the Tokyu Stay chain, this hotel is popular with business travelers. Small kitchenettes, washer/dryers, and free LAN access in all rooms makes these a good value. Singles start at ¥9450, doubles at ¥17,850 per night. Slight discounts are offered for extended stays.

- Tokyu Stay Shibuya Shin-Minamiguchi, 3-26-21 Shibuya, +81 03-5466-0109 (fax: +81 03-5466-1091), [38]. This is another outlet of the same chain.

Get out
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- Ebisu, the next stop south on the JR Yamanote Line, is a quieter and more sophisticated version of the Shibuya scene.

- Shimokitazawa, just two stops down the Keio Inokashira line, offers trendy shops, restaurants and watering holes in a slightly less frenetic atmosphere.

- Kichijoji, at the other end of the Inokashira Line, has more of the same plus a park famed for its cherry blossoms.

District Harajuku Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By train

By subway

On foot

• See

Youth culture

Shrines

Museums

• Do

Walking tour: Harajuku to Shibuya

Bicycling

Salons

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

• Get out

Understand
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The broad, tree-lined avenue leading downhill from the southern end of the JR station is Omote-sandō (表参道), which leads to the upscale Aoyama district. The street is full of cafes and clothing stores. For teenagers, though, the place to be is Takeshita-dori, which is a bustling narrow street several blocks to the north.

Nearby Yoyogi Park (代々木公園 Yoyogi-kōen) was the site of the first successful powered aircraft flight in Japan, on December 19, 1910, by Captain Yoshitoshi Tokugawa, following which it became an army parade ground. During the postwar occupation, it was the site of the Washington Heights residence for U.S. officers. It later was selected as the site for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, and the distinctive Olympic buildings designed by Kenzo Tange are still nearby. In 1967, it was made into a city park. Today, the park is a popular hangout, especially on Sundays, when it is used as a gathering place for people to play music, practice martial arts, etc. The park has a bike path, and bicycle rentals are available. As a consequence of Japan's long recession, there are several large, but surprisingly quiet and orderly, homeless camps around the park's periphery.

Get in
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By train
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JR Harajuku Station on the Yamanote Line is the obvious way to get to Harajuku. The station is very conveniently located next to both the entrance to Meiji Jingu and the beginning of Omote-Sando.

By subway
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Meiji-jingu-mae Station (on the Chiyoda and Fukutoshin subway lines) has exits onto Meiji-dori and right in front of the entrance to Meiji Jingu, next to JR Harajuku Station. The subway is better than JR for getting here from central Tokyo, but the Yamanote Line is easier if you are coming from Tokyo Station. The nearby Omotesando Station (on the Ginza and Hanzomon subway lines) is located further down Omote-sando near the intersection with Aoyama-dori. Omotesando station has a variety of boutiques and restaurants located in the underground station complex.

On foot
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Harajuku is only 15 minutes away from Shibuya by foot, just follow the train tracks along Koen-dori from the scramble crossing. (You should pass Tower Records on your right and the Yoyogi National Gymnasium on your left.) If you have more time, see the suggested walking tour below.

See
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Youth culture
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If it's Harajuku's youth culture you want to see, don't even bother unless it's a Sunday. Each group stakes out its territory around Yoyogi Park (代々木公園 Yoyogi-kōen).

- The bridge across the train tracks is full of teenagers dressed up as Gothic Lolita and other extreme Japanese youth fashions. Besides just hanging out with friends, many come here to be snapped by one of the many magazine photographers who mingle.

- Over by the entrance to the park, people with greased hair listen to rockabilly music and dance in their vintage jeans. This subculture has been around for twenty years now.

- The sidewalks along the south side are usually occupied by junk vendors and loud rock bands. Both of these groups periodically get swept away by police crack-downs, though.

- The tree-lined area leading from the south end of the park to Shibuya is filled with all sorts of street performers, mostly folk-pop singers, but also including hip-hop dancing and street theater.

Shrines
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- Meiji Jingū (明治神宮). Built in commemoration of Emperor Meiji in 1920, is Tokyo's grandest shrine. Like all of Japan's major shrines, it's large in scale but simple in structure, entered via a winding path and through a giant torii gate. On summer weekends you have a very good chance of catching a Japanese wedding in progress here; the shrine is also packed on New Year's Eve when people come here to celebrate the new year. Free.

- Yoyogi Park. In springtime, Yoyogi Park is full of cherry blossoms and people partying under the trees.

- Togo Jinja (東郷神社), 1-5-3 Jingumae (5 minutes from Harajuku station). This shrine was given the name of 'Togo Hehachiro', who was general in Taisyo age.

Museums
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- Okamoto Taro Kinenkan, (8 minutes from Omotesando station on foot.), 03-3406-0801. Studio and house of Okamoto Taro are exhibited. He made numerous masterpieces. For example, taiyonotou. Unfinished work or paint which he used are leaved.

Do
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Walking tour: Harajuku to Shibuya
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An interesting and recommended walk will let you experience Harajuku and Shibuya, and all of the trendy places in between.

Starting from the Takeshita exit (竹下口) of JR Harajuku station, walk straight away from the station down Takeshita-dori (竹下通り), where you will almost certainly run into the mingling pedestrian crowds. When you reach the first major crossroad, Meiji-dori (明治通り), turn right.

When you reach the tree-lined Omote-sandō, turn left. There are no obvious Omote-sandō street signs, but you will note a 2d story office with that name above the pink "Condominium" store on one of the corners. (And no, that business does not sell all sizes of condominium units.)

Omote-sandō is home to the highest of high-fashion stores, including Ralph Lauren, Coach, and Yves St. Laurent.

The approximate half-way point is where Omote-sandō meets Aoyama-Dori (青山通り). There is very little of interest beyond this point, so one option is to walk back down Omote-sandō and return to Harajuku. If you elect to go forward then turn right on Aoyama-Dori and you will eventually pass United Nations University on your right, and Aoyama Gakuin University on your left, before continuing down and finishing up at Shibuya's world-famous pedestrian crossing.

Allow yourself approximately two hours for this walk.

Bicycling
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- Yoyogi Park (代々木公園 Yoyogi-kōen). Has a bike path and bicycle rentals are available.

Salons
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Harajuku and Omotesando are home to many upscale beauty salons, with prices to match.

- Marble, 1-19-13 Jingumae. A beauty south style salon with friendly staff, good techniques, and reasonable prices.

- VIRGO, 2-32-3 Jingumae (near the BEAMS Harajuku branch). Actresses and models sometimes use this salon.

Buy
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- Takeshita-dōri (竹下通り). Running from the Takeshita exit of JR Harajuku to Meiji-dori, this is Tokyo's preteen haven guaranteed to fill any adult's Hello Kitty quota in milliseconds. Lately it's been nudging towards an older age bracket though, and now also caters to angsty teens looking for frilly Victorian "Gothic Lolita" clothing or black lipstick.

- Harajuku-SoLaDo (原宿ソラド), 1-8-2 Jingumae, 03-6440-0568. M-F 11AM-9PM, Sa-Su 10:30AM-9PM. New shopping center in Harajuku with 11 clothes shops.

- Omote-sandō (表参道). Caters to those with more adult or at least more expensive tastes, especially as you head towards the eastern Aoyama end.

- Antique Market, 3-6-1 Kita-Aoyama (B1 Hanae Mori Bldg), 03-3407-2675. M-Sa 11AM-7PM. A small collection of specialist shops that sell authentic (and fiercely expensive) antiques. For serious antique lovers only. (August 2009 update: This mall was mostly empty, with only three or four booths occupied.)

- Omotesando Hills, 4-12-10 Jingumae, 03-3497-0310, [1]. Designed by Tadao Ando and built by Mori Building of Roppongi Hills fame, this is a super-chic shopping mall that caters to those "independent, style-conscious urbanites" (to quote the site) who couldn't possibly wear anything except the latest fashions or eat chocolates not prepared by a famous Parisian patissier. For the rest of us, it's still an interesting browse, and the restaurants on the top floor may be worth a splurge for a light lunch.

- Oriental Bazaar, 5-9-13 Jingumae. A kitschy Tokyo institution for tourists and expats alike, with four floors of shopping stocking everything from kamikaze T-shirts to foreigner-sized kimonos. Still, this is definitely the easiest way to get your souvenir shopping done. The Bazaar is housed in an instantly recognizable building with a faux-Chinese temple roof.

- Kiddy Land, 6-1-9 Jingumae. A huge toy store located on Omotesando, near the entrance to Cat Street (on September 17 2010 Kiddyland moved to Cat Street).

- Laforet Harajuku, 1-11-6 Jingumae, 03-3475-0411. M-Su 11AM-8PM. A large building owned by the same company that runs Omotesando Hills, but targeting a decidedly younger audience. In summer and winter, they have big sales.

- YM Square, 4-31-10 Jingumae (just north of the Jingumae intersection along Meiji-dori). Known for its two big used clothes shops: Kinji and Hanjiro.

Eat
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Omote-sando has occasionally been dubbed the Champs-Elysées of Tokyo, which is true at least for the general price level of the trendy cafes and eateries along the road.

The must-eat item of Takeshita-dori is the Harajuku crêpe. It's a treat of a fresh-made crêpe rolled into a cone and stuffed mostly with whipped cream and other goodies such as strawberries, chocolate, even whole slices of cheesecake; the more adventurous options including tandori chicken. Just stroll down the street and you will see four or five different shops. Most flavors cost less than ¥500.

In terms of eating a meal in Harajuku, the vast majority of restaurants serve Western or Indian food. If it's Japanese food you're looking for, you're probably best off eating before or after Harajuku.

Budget
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- Shakey's Pizza, 6-1-10 Jingumae. Shakey's Pizza has an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet for ¥1050 on weekdays (on weekends & holidays about ¥1250). If you've never had seaweed, pickled ginger or fruit salad in your pizza, this is the place to try it.

- Tenya (てんや). This fast-food tempura chain has an outlet on Meiji-dori just to the north of the Meiji-dori/Omote-sando intersection. ¥500 for a bowl.

- Kebab Box J, 1-8-8 Jingumae (on Meiji-dori between Takeshita-dori and Omote-sando), 03-3470-0706. 10:30AM-9PM. Whereas most doner kebabs in Tokyo are served out of a van, Kebab Box J's store is firmly attached to the ground. Friendly staff wears cowboy hats. Chicken or beef kebabs ¥500.

- Kyushu Jangara (九州じゃんがら), 1-13-21 Jingumae (top of Omote-Sando street, right by the intersection), 03-3404-5572. One of the best-known tonkotsu ramen shops in Tokyo, where you can choose between five degrees of noodle thickness, three levels of soup texture, and three levels of soup fattiness. All for a simple bowl of noodles.

- Mother Kurkku, 03-5414-0581. You can utilize for use without constraint. For example: meal, tea time, reading books and so on... But you should eat om-rice (オムライス), an omelet containing fried rice with handmade sauce. Italian tomatoes are used for this sauce. Moreover, it costs only 1000 yen and delicious.

- Sakuratei, (go down Takeshita street and make a left after the hair salon 2010 sign. It is behind the red Design Festa Art Gallery). A great Okonomiyaki restaurant where many local artists work. An all you can eat course is around ¥1300 for 2 hours.

- Arms Sandwiches, (just outside of Yoyogi Park, near the dog park entrance). This small, Americana-inspired eatery is nestled right off the main footpath, and serves lots of Western food, including a wide burger selection (try the avocado burger!). Also serves fries, chili dogs, and other non-Japanese fare. American beer selection available. Be advised, the place fills up pretty fast, so swing by before a stroll in Yoyogi and put your name in.

Mid-range
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- Anniversaire Cafe, 03-5411-5988. This is a fashonable cafe of Paris style. You can enjoy elegant mood with seeing a row of houses and street of Omotesando. You can also choose fish or meat for lunch

- cafe STUDIO, 4-31-10 Jingumae, 03-3478-0182. M-Su 11AM-11PM. This restaurant/cafe often holds events including guest speakers and live shows. The hamburger menu is popular.

Splurge
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- Fonda de la Madrugada, 2-33-12 Jingumae, 03-5410-6288, [2]. M-Th, Su 5:30PM-2AM, F & Sa 5:30PM-5AM. Located in a cavernous basement, Fonda de la Madrugada is regarded as one of the best Mexican restaurants in Tokyo. Menu in English, Spanish and Japanese. Expect to pay around ¥5000 per person for food and drinks, plus a 10% service charge.

- Restaurant Kinoshita, 3-37-1 Yoyogi Shibuya-ku (northwest side of Yoyogi Park; Odakyu Sangubashi station or JR Yoyogi station), 03-3376-5336. 12-2PM, 6-9PM, closed Mondays and the third Tuesday of each month. Kinoshita makes eating French food in Japan justifiable. Some say that with its underpriced menu, dinner courses for ¥3800-¥7000, and weekday lunches for ¥1800, this restaurant is the best kept secret in Tokyo. But in fact it is popular, and reservations are mandatory. Menu in French and Japanese.

Drink
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- Binimaru, 2-31-7 Jingumae Shibuya-ku (10 min. walk from JR Harajuku station's Takeshita exit), 03-5411-1209, [3]. 7PM-2AM, closed Sundays. Nice selection of Belgian bottled beers, lots of beer, quite a lot of beer, all are available in 750 mL (25 floz) bottles, good for sharing with a friend. ¥1000-1200 for single serving bottle, around ¥2000 for 750 mL (25 floz) bottle.

- COCONGO, 2-31-9 Jingumae Shibuya-ku, 03-3475-8980. 11AM-8PM. This is a south style ethnic caffe. This shop's lassi (a mango yogurt based juice) is very good.

Sleep
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- Floracion Aoyama, 4-17-58 Minamiaoyama Minatoku, 03-3403-1554. A conveniently placed, if somewhat expensive hotel, it can be found by the Omotesando station in a quiet spot with a good view of the park. It features both a restaurant of reasonable quality and a spa - expect to pay through the nose, though. The rates change regularly, and currently sit at between 11303 to 12458 yen a night for a single room, with double rooms costing up to 21450 yen.

- Japan Youth Hostels Yoyogi, Olympic Center, 3-1, Kamizono-cho, Yoyogi, 03-3467-9163, [4].

Get out
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- Shibuya is within walking distance if you're still in the mood for more teenybopping.

District Ebisu Table of Contents

• Get in

• Get around

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Get in
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Ebisu is a station on the JR Yamanote line, one stop south of Shibuya. The Metro Hibiya subway line from Roppongi also stops in Ebisu. The Saikyo line and the Shonan-Shinjuku Line also stop in JR Ebisu station.

Get around
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Ebisu is compact enough to cover on foot. A convenient moving walkway connects to the popular Ebisu Garden Place. Daikanyama, Nakameguro, Hiroo and Shibuya are close to Ebisu. You can walk to those places easily.

See
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The neighborhood immediately outside of the metro station has dozens of restaurants and several fun bars. Ebisu offers nightlife without the sleaziness of Shinjuku or Roppongi. Another attraction is the Yebisu Garden Place [1], a new "city in a city" developed on the site of a former brewery. Access is via the JR station's Garden Place exit, which leads to a moving walkway leading into the district.

- Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography (東京都写真美術館, Tokyo-to Shashin Bijutsukan), in Yebisu Garden Place, [2]. A must for fans of photography, with multiple floors of constantly changing exhibitions of the best photography from around Japan and the world. Entrance fees depend on the exhibits you wish to visit but there are often some free ones.

- Beer Museum (麦酒記念館), in Yebisu Garden Place. Tu-Su 10AM-6PM. A mildly interesting permanent exhibition covering the brewing process in general and the history of Sapporo Breweries, which brews the upmarket Yebisu label. There is even a Virtual Brewery Virtual Adventure to try. Entry is free, and you can sample 4 types of beer for ¥400 if so inclined at the end.

- Ebisu Garden Cinema, 4-20-2 Ebisu Tokyo, +81 13 150-0013. Ebisu Garden Cinema consists of two small, but comfortable, theaters in the Ebisu Garden City complex. The larger theater seats 232 and the smaller one 116, and they both show predominantly non-Japanese art films.

Do
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Ebisu Ekimae Summer Festival - The festival held at the end of July every year.

Buy
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- There is a large shopping mall and department store right in JR Ebisu station, but this pales compared with the offerings in next-door Shibuya.

- Yebisu Garden Place. Has its fair share of boutiques, including a Mitsukoshi department store. The Beer Museum's souvenir shop deserves a special mention, as this is probably the only place on earth that sells gift-wrapped packages of beer jelly.

- Good Day Books, Ebisu 1-11-2-3F (upstairs from FooTNiK, see Drink section), +81 03-5421-0957, [3]. M-Sa 11AM-8PM, Su 11AM-6PM. Good selection of used books in English. Rather expensive.

Eat
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Ebisu has a good selection of places to eat, mostly slightly upmarket. The Garden Place also has a large number of restaurants.

- Kabto (兜), Ebisu-Nishi 1-5-5. Charcoal grill (sumibiyaki) restaurant that looks way more expensive than it actually is. Not a bad choice just for drinks either, which start at ¥400 for a draft beer.

- Kanon (かのん), Roob 6 Bldg 2F, Ebisu-Nishi 1-13-3, [4]. M-Sa 5PM-4AM, Su 5PM-11PM. Popular Okinawan izakaya offering all the usual Ryukyuan favorites plus a large selection of awamori (Okinawan liquor). Figure on ¥3000 per head to eat and drink well.

- Zest Cantina, Ebisu 1-22-19 (3 min. from East exit), +81 03-5475-6291. Good Tex-Mex cuisine and drinks in an expansive space modeled after a Western saloon.

- Hiiragi, Ebisu 1-4-1, +81 03-3473-7050. A famous Taiyaki shop.

- Kimu Katsu, Ebisu 4-9-5, +81 03-5420-2929. A cutlet shop. The special cheese cutlet is recommended.

- Cafe restaurant AMANDINE, Ebisu 2-10-10, 81-3-5728-4551. An American style cafe. There are plans for wedding party and other types of party. Delicious pancakes and lunch menu are recommended.

- Itteki Hassenya Ebisu, Ebisu Minami 2-1-1, 81-3-5723-8841. A bar style Izakaya at night but during lunch time, you can eat delicious Udon noodle. Shironiku udon and Kuroniku udon are the top menus here.

Drink
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Ebisu is also a trendy nightlife district, with many slightly quirky bars and clubs. Sadly Milk, perhaps Ebisu's best-known club, closed down in 2007.

- Aoyuzu, Daikoku Bldg B1F Ebisu 1-8-14, [5]. A bar with good music. You can book parties here.

- Buri, Ebisu Nishi 1-14-1 (look right from the Ebisu statue as you exit the station and take the street between KFC and Wendy's; Buri's on the third corner on your left), +81 03-3496-7744. 5PM-3AM. A small standing bar with many high quality varieties of sake available in cup-size bottles: great for tasting several from all over Japan. All sake is initially served cold, but the staff will warm each cup to your desired temperature.

- The FooTNiK, Ebisu 1-11-2-1F (East exit, on Ebisu-Dori), +81 03-5795-0144, [6]. A British pub where there's always football on the telly.

- Liquid Room, 3-16-6 Higashi (near crossing of Meiji-dori and Komazawa-dori), +81 03-5464-0800, [7]. One of Tokyo's best-known and oldest-running nightclubs, although it used to be in Kabukicho. Varies, but around ¥3500.

- What The Dickens, Roob 6 Bldg 4F, Ebisu-Nishi 1-13-3, [8]. Closed Mondays. An extremely popular British pub in the heart of Ebisu. Fairly expensive (anything imported costs close to ¥1000), but has one of the best selections of British beer and cider in town.

- Sapporo Beer (in Ebisu Garden Place), Ebisu 4-20-1, +81 03-5423-7255. You can try a lot of beer at a low price.

- Ippo, Ebisu 1-22-10, Kamasuya 2F, 3445-8418. 6pm-1am. A small restaurant on the second floor of an unassuming building behind the Ebisu Station; it features fresh fish and a large selection of sake. The menus are in Japanese but the staff speaks English.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Siesta Capsule Hotel, (right next to the JR Ebisu station), [9].

Mid-range
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- Hotel Excellent, (directly west of Ebisu JR station), +81 (0)3-5458-0087, [10]. Affordable and clean business hotel.

Splurge
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- Westin Tokyo, Yebisu Garden Place, +81 03-5423-7000, [11]. Slick 5-star hotel.

Contact
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- Comica, Higashi-Ebisu 1-13-2, Sanki Building 4F (Outside JR Ebisu West Exit, down alley between KFC and St. Marc's Cafe), [12]. 24 hours. Standard-issue Japanese manga/internet cafe with a variety of seats and free drinks. ¥450/hour, discounted rates at night.

District Shinagawa Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By train

By bus

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
toc

Although Shinagawa is a ward of Tokyo, Shinagawa Station is actually in the ward of Minato: Shinagawa Ward is located to the southwest of Shinagawa Station, in the area surrounding Gotanda and Osaki on the Yamanote Line.

The two sides of Shinagawa Station are quite different: the west or "Takanawa" side is mainly residential, with the exception of a sizeable hotel zoning immediately around the station. The east side or "Konan" side ranges from commercial to industrial, although many new modern residential apartments have been developed near the station and along its many water canals. Because of the large number of railway lines passing through, it is difficult to get from one side of the station to the other without walking through the station itself, so be sure to exit the station on the correct side for your destination.

Get in
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By train
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Shinagawa Station is served by Japan Railways (JR) and Keikyu Railway. JR runs trains to Shinagawa on the Yamanote, Keihin-Tohoku, Yokosuka, and Tokaido lines. Most Narita Expresses from Narita Airport travel directly to Shinagawa (75 min., ¥3,110). Shinagawa Station is also served by the Tokaido Shinkansen, making this a convenient jumping-off point for trips to Kyoto, Osaka and other cities along the line.

On the Yamanote line, Ōsaki and Gotanda stations are also in the area.

Keikyu Railways trains run south to Haneda Airport, Yokohama and points beyond. Keikyu also has through service with the Asakusa subway line and operates trains going as far north as Narita, making this a cheap, but much slower, alternative to the Narita Express. The trip between Shinagawa and Haneda Airport takes as little as 17 minutes and costs ¥400.

By bus
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Several hotels in Shinagawa, as well as Shinagawa Station, are connected to Narita Airport via the "Airport Limousine" bus (85 min., ¥3,000)

See
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- Sengaku-ji (泉岳寺), (nearest station is Sengakuji on the Toei Asakusa line). A temple most famous as the resting place of the 47 Ronin, a famous group of samurai who banded together to avenge their unfairly slain master. Having obtained the head of the offender, they brought it to this very temple and then were condemned to commit ritual suicide, like their master. The story is told in Chushingura, the best-known of all Kabuki plays. History aside, the temple isn't much to look at, but the small museum has artifacts from the event and after, including wooden statues of all the ronin, the banner that the ronin posted during their raid, original letters, and the receipt that the priests wrote out for the head.

- Hara Museum of Contemporary Art, 4-7-25 Kitashinagawa (15 minutes walk from JR Shinagawa Station, near La Foret Hotel), +81 03-3445-0651 (fax: +81 03-3473-0104), [1]. Closed M; T,Th-Su 11AM-5PM, W 11AM-8PM. This small museum hosts a variety of interesting exhibitions in a 1930's house which is a great example of modern architecture in pre-war Japan. There is a very nice indoor/outdoor cafe. ¥1000, ¥700 students.

Do
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- Tokyo Regional Immigration Bureau, (Exit JR Shinagawa Station on the Konan side, look to your left, and follow the signs to bus platform 8 serving Immigration), 03-5796-7112, [2]. M-F 9AM-12PM and 1PM-4PM. This center serves foreign residents and long-term visitors. Also houses immigration detention. If going in the morning, get there early because a line forms outside long before opening hours.

- Epson Aqua Stadium, Minato-ku, Takanawa 4-10-30 (Behind Takanawa Wing West just past the Prince Hotel Executive Tower), 03-3440-1111, [3]. M-F 12-10PM; Sa 10AM-10PM; SU and holidays 10AM-9PM. Aquarium with dolphin and seal shows and hundreds of species of fish. There is also a carousel ride. Adults ¥1,800; Elementary and middle school students ¥1,000; Kids over 4 years old ¥600.

- Takanawa Catholic Church, Minato-ku, Takanawa 4-7-1 (A few minutes up Zakurozaka street past the Outback restaurant on the left), 03-3441-5556, [4]. This modern church rebuilt on a historic site is handicapped-accessible and has sunday Mass in English on the fourth Sunday of each month at 1PM.

Buy
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- Coffee Roast Sai, Takanawa 1-21-3 (15 min walk up from Shinagawa), +81 03-3449-7007. Roasts beans while you wait, usually with a wonderful free cup of coffee.

Eat
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Budget
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You don't even have to leave the station to treat yourself to a wide range of affordable restaurants. Inside the ticket barrier you can find:

- Andersen. 7AM-10PM. If you are making an early departure for Kamakura or points south pick up sandwiches to go

- eCute, 03-3444-8910, [5]. A small food court and take out restaurants featuring a couple of dozen food stands and bakery or sweet shops on the first level. This is also a very comfortably air-conditioned place to wait for a train connection. There are three full-service restaurants on the upper level. A few examples include:

- Kongariya, 03-5421-0431. Select from a wide range of onigiri with interesting fillings like squid and kimchee, miso or shoyu grilled riceballs, or even ones wrapped in Indian naan and baked. From ¥150.

- Paul, 03-3440-5021. Sandwiches on real baguettes.

Near the West or Takanawa Exit

- Yoshinoya, (One block to right from Takanawa exit of the JR station). Fast food chain with Japanese style food.

Near the East or Konan Exit adjacent to the Shinkansen ticket gates

- Ushio Sushi Bar, (On the left just past the main Atre entrance), 03-6717-0934. 11AM-11PM. Cheap sushi by the piece or in sets. There is a bilingual menu and instruction sheet to help you with ordering and payment. There is also a quick take-out window to grab something for the road. Sets from ¥380.

Mid-range
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- Atre New York Style, (Shinagawa Station Konan Exit). A collection of restaurants grouped around a Queen Isetan grocery. Dean & Deluca, on the second floor, has a take-out sandwich and coffee bar which is convenient for supplies to get you through a long Shinkansen ride. The fourth floor has the Lounge Foodium restaurant complex including Grand Central Oyster Bar.

- Devi Corner, 3-24-21 Takanawa (5 min. north of Shinagawa station). Excellent Indian cuisine.

- Giyamantei, Takanawa 4-10-20 (In Keihin Hotel opposite Station), +81 03 3442 3160, [6]. Authentic Izakaya style restaurant with English language menu.

- Beer Restaurant, (Across the street and 1/2 block down from the East entrance of Shinagawa station). This is a good, authentic yakatori joint quite popular with Japanese commuters. They also have horse sashimi, something you're unlikely to encounter elsewhere.

- Royal Host, (First floor of the Takanawa Keikyu Hotel). Popular "family restaurant" chain with surprisingly good coffee but little else that stands out.

- Shinatatsu, Takanawa 3-26-20 (turn left from the West entrance of the JR station), +81 03 5475 7020, [7]. 11AM-10PM. Collection of noodle restaurants from the "7 Masters of Ramen".

- Tsubame (Ginza Since 1930), (across the street, next to the bus entrance of Shinagawa Prince Hotel). Tsubame is famous for its "hamburg" dish. Contrary to belief, lunch special only costs 1150 yen (about $10) - a bargain for the excellent quality of food. The "hamburg" dish comes piping hot covered completely in an aluminum foil - yummy.

- Tsukemen Tetsu, (West exit Shinagawa station, 2 minutes walk south, i.e., take a left outside the west exit). There are a cluster of quality noodle shops just south of the west exit, nestled under the roadway. Quite a variety of donburi, ramen, etc, some with lines at lunchtime and some without.

- Tikka & Biryani, (take Prince Hotel Exit of Shinagawa station, Take your Left after crossing the Road. Its about 7 minutes walk on the highways, take the lane next to Riken kiki co. Ltd. building). Has excellent Indian Mughal Biryani.

Splurge
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- Kura (Ginza Since 1930), (one block South of the East Exit of the JR station). This is an excellent Japan-Korean barbeque, with seafood and vegetarian options. Several waitstaff speak impeccable English. Cost really depends on how hungry you are; a light meal is likely to be ¥3000, but stuffing yourself could run to ¥7000.

Drink
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Directly across the street from JR Shinagawa Station Takanawa Exit you will find Enoteca on the second level of Shinagawa Wing. Shop for imported wines, or sample glasses in their small cafe. The Wing also has a tea shop.

- Virgin Cafe, (Cross the elevated walkway to the left of Shinagawa Konan Exit). This cafe always seems very smoky, but is an easy place to stop for light food and imported beers on tap such as Kilkenny and Guinness. ¥1,000 for a pint.

- Art Cafe, (Across the street from the East side of the JR station, in the Prince hotel shopping center). Excellent coffee, this somewhat smoky cafe is full of American and European business visitors and Japanese having espresso and a curry bun, or even a "bagette" (Japanese hot dog).

- Starbucks, (On the second floor of JR Shinagawa Station just before the Konan Exit). Of course, Americans who are feeling homesick can always get a latte at Starbucks inside the JR station.

- 82 Ale House, (Leaving Shinagawa station via the Konan exit, go down the escalator and walk down the street directly in front. Its near the end on the right hand side). Note that last orders are at the bizarrely early time of 10:45PM on Saturdays and Sundays. Very convincing Victorian style British pub. Largish drinks menu which includes single malt wiskeys, real ale and Guinness on tap for ¥850 a pint.

Sleep
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With the new Shinkansen service to Shinagawa, the area hotels have become much more convenient (and crowded). Rooms at the hotels near the station sell out very quickly. Try Gotanda Station, 2 stops away on the Yamanote Line, for cheaper business hotels or capsules.

Budget
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- Guesthouse Shinagawa-shuku, 1-22-16 Kita-Shinagawa Shinagawa-ku (JR Kita Shinagawa Station), 03-6712-9440 (reservation@bp-shinagawashuku.com, fax: +81-3-6712-9443). Small, friendly guesthouse "for backpackers" in a very 'local' feeling location. Dormitory ¥3,000 Private Single3500yen.

- Toyoko Inn Shinagawa, (Takanawa exit), [8]. A bit cheaper than the rest, and it can sell out quickly. Nice place to stay Rack rates ¥6,720+.

- Minami-Shinagawa, [9]. An alternative Toyoko Inn, five minutes south of Shinagawa by Keikyu local train. Availability is generally better here than the other Toyoko Inn, and the hotel is directly connected to the Keikyu line. Rack rates ¥6,720+.

Mid-range
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- Takanawa Keikyu, [10]. A more economical alternative to the more expensive high-service hotels, while still being good for business travelers who need the room primarily for sleeping and internet. Rack rates ¥11,900+.

- Shinagawa Prince Hotel, (near the Takanawa exit), [11]. Rack rates ¥15,500+.

- Takanawa Prince Hotel, (near the Takanawa exit), [12]. Rack rates ¥15,500+.

- New Takanawa Prince Hotel, (near the Takanawa exit), [13]. Rack rates ¥15,500+.

Splurge
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- Hotel La Foret, 品川区北品川4-7-36 Shinagawa-ku, Kita Shinagawa 4-7-36 (3 min. walk from Keikyu Kita Shinagawa, 5 min by bus from JR Shinagawa Takanawa Exit, 10 min. walk from JR Gotanda Station), (03) 5488-3939, [14]. checkin: 2PM; checkout: 12noon. This high end hotel is located in the deluxe Gotenyama Hills complex. ¥30,000.

- Le Meridien Pacific Tokyo, (Takanawa exit), [15]. Originally known (and still prominently displayed) as the Hotel Pacific. The rooms have high speed internet and smoking rooms are available, although the quality of this hotel is significantly lower than the more expensive Le Meridien Grand Pacific Tokyo in Odaiba. Rack rates ¥18,680+.

- The Strings Hotel, (Konan exit), [16]. A top-notch hotel near Shinagawa Station which is worth visiting for a drink or a meal to get the view of the bay and Rainbow Bridge. Part of the Intercontinental chain. Rack rates ¥31,000+.

Contact
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- Shinigawa Prince Executive Tower`s North and South Annex. 2nd floor wireless hot-spot. Must purchase a ¥500 card at the front desk, which will give you one day access. Must have your own computer. Power plugs along the window side. No eating or drinking allowed at the tables.

Get out
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District Gotanda Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

• Contact

Get in
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Served by Gotanda Station on the Yamanote Line, Takanawadai and Gotanda Stations on the Toei Asakusa Line, and Osaki Hirokoji and Gotanda Stations on the Tokyu Ikegami Lines.

- From Narita: Quick access for international visitors arriving in Tokyo is the Narita Express via Shinagawa Station. The Keisei Express from Narita connects to the Asakusa Line for cheaper and frequent service to Gotanda Station. Change at Aoto Station. There are frequent announcements of the change on the train in English.

- From Haneda: Take the Keikyu Line to Shinagawa, change to the Yamanote Line--two stops.

See
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- Shiki Theater (aka CATS Theater), 141-0022 Tokyo, Shinagawa-ku, Higashi Gotanda 2-18 (8-10 minutes walk from Gotanda Station directly east along Sony Dori), +81-03-5776-6730, [1]. Take in a Japanese touring cast of recently popular Broadway musicals. Various.

- Hatakeyama Collection, 〒108-0071 Tokyo, Minato-ku, Shirokanedai 2-20-12 (5 minutes walk from Toei Asakusa Line Takanawadai Station Exit A2), +81 03-3447-5787, [2]. Closed Mondays: April -September: 10AM-5:00PM October - March: 10AM-4:30PM. Outstanding collection of artwork from around Northeast Asia in this small museum surrounded by manicured grounds. Excellent ceramics and items related to tea ceremony. Some exhibits change seasonally. ¥500.

Do
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- The Meguro River passes just blocks from Gotanda Station and this section is a less crowded alternative for some quick cherry blossom viewing.

- Fitness Gym ARF, 141-0031 Tokyo, Shinagawa-ku-Nishi Gotanda 8-4-13, U-Port B1F (1 minute west of Osaki Hirokoji Station), +81 03-3494-8642. This sport club operates on a ticket system so it is convenient for visitors. Rental sportswear and shoes are available. Notably, this is one gym which allows tattooed users--a rarity in Tokyo.

Buy
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- TOC Building, (8 min walk down Sakaurada-dori crossing the Meguro River from Gotanda JR Yamanote Line or Toei Asakusa Line), +81 03-3494-2200, Tokyo, Shinagawa-ku, Nishi Gotanda 7-22-17. 8AM-8PM. This wholesaler and distributor complex features a regular schedule of shopping events such as mammoth flea markets or themed shopping "fairs" such as for watches, shoes, or handbags. The ground floor and basement are a low-end retail mall. TOC is also a location for trade and promotional events. A free bus service runs every 8 minutes from in front of the Victoria Golf shop on the Nishi Gotanda side of the JR Station.

- Naitoh Shoten, Shinagawa-ku, Nishi Gotanda 5-3-5 (Follow Sakurada-dori across the river, cross Yamate dori at Book Off and turn right. Look for the large yellow sign marked in English several blocks down on your left), +81 03-3493-6565. This local liquor shop carries a good selection of domestic and imported beverages. Visitors looking for colorful and fun souvenirs might try their huge selection of decorative one-cup sake. One-cup is a brand name of cheap sake, but better quality brewers have started making these attractive 180ml packages where the cup can be saved and reused. Naitoh offers one of the larger selections in the city.

- Design Books, Higashi Gotanda 5-25-19, Tokyo Design Center 1F (On the left side of Sakurada-dori one minute east from the station.), 03-3445-1341, [4]. M-F 11AM-7PM; Sa Su 12-6PM. Some visitors to Tokyo are interested in art and design and want to pick up some special stationary, photo books, or magazines devoted to architecture or design. This store on the first floor of the Tokyo Design Center is small but attractive and has a range of cool books and small interior items to take home. The Design Center itself is worth a look for Tokyo visitors interested in challenging architectural problems.

Eat
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Budget
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All of the usual chain restaurants and fast-food surround the station area including MOS Burger, McDonalds, KFC, Subway, and Curry House CoCo Ichiban.

- Chin Mar Ya, (1 minute from JR Gotanda). Lunch until late. This local fast-food chain started here and serves good, cheap, and spicy maboudofu or Szechuan-style spicy tofu. Look for the red awning on the corner directly across from the Tokyu Store. Take out also available. ¥600-1,000.

- Koya Hong Kong Dining, (Two locations: TOC Building B1 and next to Takanawadai Station Exit A2), TOC: 03-3493-1918; takanawadai 03-3447-5846, [5]. Spicy Chinese tan-tan noodles made from a sesame base with lots of sansho and chili pepper added. Good value and good atmosphere with old jazz music. Counter and table seating. Open to the sidewalk in season at Takanawadai location. ¥1,000.

Mid-range
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- 7025 Franklin Avenue, Tokyo, Shinagawa-ku, Higashi Gotanda 3-15-18 (About five minutes walk from Gotanda Station along Sony Dori and left at the signs for Seisen University.), +81 03-3441-5028. Daily 11AM-9PM (Su until 7:30PM). Excellent burger restaurant with a bit more of an upscale decor, including a quiet and comfortable garden in this converted house. A bit pricier than some hamburger restaurants, but very good. No credit cards are accepted. ¥2,000-3,000.

- Bar Alala, Shinagawa-ku Higashi Gotanda 5-22-32 (One block from JR East Exit; left past KFC until the road merges; look for the red awning on the right.), 03-3446-0655, [6]. 5:30PM-12; closed Sundays and holidays. Reasonably priced Spanish food and wine in a small restaurant open to the sidewalk in season.

- Bar Blast, (Less than 1 minute from JR Gotanda East Exit-Look just around the corner to the left of KFC), 03-3443-7222, [7]. Daily 6PM-4:30AM. This basement bar is not a dive, but trying to be a little cooler than other bars in the neighborhood. See website for online reservation form. ¥500 table charge if just stopping in for a drink.

- Chegoya, 141-0022 Tokyo, Shinagawa-ku, Higashi Gotanda 1-25-19 (A few minutes walk east along the north side of Sony Dori), +81 03-3473-7821. Daily 11AM-1AM Last order Midnight. Great Korean food at a reasonable price in a crowded casual setting. Very popular after-work spot. ¥2,000-3,000.

- Ribera Steakhouse, Higashi Gotanda (5 minutes walk north up Sakurada-dori from JR Gotanda, or 2 minutes walk from Takanawadai Station on the Asakusa line. On Sakurada-dori between Takanawadai and Gotanda Stations, next to the Red Baron motorcycle shop). T-Su 6PM-11PM, closed Mondays. Reasonably priced steaks with great character. Think C&W meets pro-wrestling. Hank Williams on cassette and photos of Andre the Giant and The Rock. The walls are covered with autographed photos of K1 and other fighters eating steaks here. Look for the giant photo of Hulk Hogan tucking into a steak. Yokuzuna Akebono has been a regular here for years. ¥2,500-3000.

- sake Yoshi (sake吉), Higashi Gotanda 3-17-17 (Walk down Sony-dori, turn left just after SEV and just before Hotel Arietta. Take a right and it is a small house mid-block on the left), 03-3440-3944, [8]. 5:30PM-11:00PM; last order 10:30; closed Sundays and holidays. This is an excellent, small izakaya run out of the remodeled childhood home of the proprietor. Great food paired with a short, but very good menu of premium sake. Reservations recommended.

- Tokyo Oyster Bar, (2 minutes walk up the right side of Sakurada-dori from Gotanda Station East Exit), +81 03-3280-3336, [9]. 5PM-10:30PM. A wide selection of domestic and international oysters BBQ, raw, and other preparations. Order by the piece or choose dishes from the menu.

Splurge
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- Ne Quittez Pas, +81 03-3442-2382. Closed M; Tu-Su 12-2PM and 6PM-9PM. High-end French cuisine a short walk from Gotanda Station. 10,000 yen person and up.

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- The Grafton, Tokyo, Shinagawa-ku, Nishi-Gotanda 2-26-5 Ito Building III, B1 (On the Nishi Gotanda (outside the circle) side of the Yamanote Line. Look for the nearby Tsutaya shop), +81 03-3491-9696. Though a bit out of the way this Irish pub is a good place for the standards: fish and chips, Guinness, and football.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Central Inn Gotanda, (One block east along Sony Dori and left at Sumitomo Mitsui Bank, then next corner on the right), +81 03-3447-5225, [10]. Minimal accommodation on the seedy side of Gotanda starting from capsules up to single and twin rooms. Check the website for various stay packages such as 5AM to 10AM, or 10AM to 10AM. from ¥3,300.

- Hotel Royal Oak Gotanda (ホテルロイヤルオーク五反田), Shinagawa-ku, Nishi Gotanda 1-9-3 (Adjacent to the Tokyu Ikegami Line Tracks facing the Meguro River), 03-3492-5111 (royal-oak@r6.dion.ne.jp, fax: 03-3492-5211), [11]. checkin: 3PM; checkout: 10AM. Less glamourous and a bit on the wrong side of the tracks, but cheap and accessible. Rack rates from ¥7,000 online reservations from as low as ¥3,700.

Mid-range
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- Arietta Hotel, 141-0022 Tokyo, Higashi Gotanda 2-5-2 (5 Minutes walk along Sony-dori east of Gotanda Station), +81 03-5448-9111, [12]. checkin: 14:00; checkout: 12:00. This small hotel is aiming towards visitors interested in a boutique hotel image a step above the usual business hotel. ¥8,000-12,000.

- Toko Hotel, (Less than 1 minute from the Western Exit of JR Gotanda Station: Immediately in front of Toei-Asakusa Line Gotanda station Exit A2), +81-03-3494-1050, [13]. checkin: 15:00. Popular with tour groups of visiting students, sports teams, etc. Single ¥9,800-10,800.

- Tokyu Stay Gotanda, 141-0022 Tokyo, Shinagawa-ku, Higashi Gotanda 1-12-2 (One minute walk along Sakurada-dori from the East Exit of JR Gotanda Station just past the karaoke Big Echo), +81 03-3280-0109, [14]. This chain of hotels is very popular with business travelers. When the Shibuya or other branches are full (as is often the case) this is a good alternative. All rooms a have clothes washer/drier and most have a kitchenette so this is a good option for longer stays. Single ¥9,400-11,000.

Contact
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The Wired Cafe in the JR Gotanda Atre has laptops for Internet access for customers.

District Toshima Table of Contents

• Get in

• Get around

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

• Contact

Get in
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The main train hub for the area is Ikebukuro, covered in a separate article.

Get around
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The Toden Arakawa line, the last streetcar line in Tokyo, putters through Toshima starting from Waseda University (just across the district line in Shinjuku), through Zoshigaya, Ikebukuro, and all the way to Minowa at the northern edge of Taito.

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There is, quite frankly, very little in the way of attractions for tourists in Toshima.

- Zōshigaya Cemetery (雑司が谷霊園 Zōshigaya-reien), Minami-Ikebukuro 4-chome (near Higashi-Ikebukuro station). The final resting place of Lafcadio Hearn is about the most exciting attraction in this neck of the woods.

- Myōkō-ji Temple (妙行寺), (15 min from JR Sugamo station). According to legend, the grave of Lady Oiwa (Oiwa-san) in Yotsuya Kaidan, Japan's best-known ghost story and a direct inspiration for the Ring horror movies, is in this temple. In a nutshell, the beautiful Oiwa was disfigured, divorced and killed, and then comes back to haunt the people who wronged her.

- Honmyōji Temple (本妙寺), 5-35-6 Sugamo (10 min from JR Sugamo station). This temple is known for a fire called Meireki-no-Taika. It was a biggest fire in Japan. 108,000 people were dead 400 years ago. It is said that this fire broke out in Honmyōji. And there are some tombs of famous people in this temple. A Japanese sward man Syuusaku Ciba and a political office leader Kinshirou Touyoma, for example.

- Asukayama Park (飛鳥山公園), 1-1-3 Oji (1 min from JR Oji station), 03-3908-9275. Asukayama Park is the first park in Japan. It has many cherry blossoms. The number is 650. These were put by a Japanese political leader Yoshimune Tokugawa (1684-1751). People drink and eat under these threes when these cherryblossams bloom in spring. And there are some museums in this park. The paper museum shows the paper history and has a library. There are data on paper. The Sibusawa museum is a museum about Japanese famous industrialist Eiich Shibusawa (1840-1931). He played an important part in the development of Japan. This museum shows his history and collect books related to him.

- Houmyōji (法明寺), (3-18-18 Minamiikebukuro), 03-3971-4383, [2]. Famous Japanese temple built in 810. Features the statue of Kisimojin (鬼子母神像) who is a Japanese God for having babies easily. So visitors go to Houmyōji and play for the birth and growth of their children safely. The Kisimojin figure is a devil usually, but this statue holds a baby, and the figure is beautiful. In this temple the Oesiki-Taisai festival (御会式大祭) is held from on 16 Octover to 18 Octover every year.

Do
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Buy
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Ikebukuro is home to two of the largest department stores in the world, Seibu and Tobu.

Sugamo (巣鴨), on the JR Yamanote and Toei Mita lines, is popularly known as "Grandma's Harajuku" (obaachan no Harajuku), and indeed most shops in the area do seem targeted towards an older clientèle. For the (rare) tourist, however, this means a plentiful supply of tea, pottery, kitchen implements and clothes in styles that went out of fashion 50 years ago. The area is at its liveliest on the 4th, 14th and 24th of each month when a street market is held.</buy>

- Maruji (丸治), Sugamo 4-21-11 and three other outlets nearby, [3]. Probably the most famous and successful shop in Sugamo, Maruji specializes in one thing: red underwear (赤パンツ aka-pantsu). By energizing a pressure point below your navel, Maruji's crimson panties, boxers and long-johns will keep you warm and fill you with vigor — or so they say. ¥800 and up.

Eat
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- Konaya (古奈屋), Sugamo 3-37-1, [4]. Open ''for lunch only'' daily except Monday. The original shop of restaurant chain renowned for its curry udon noodles. The noodles are cut by hand, the special curry stock is brewed for two days, and ¥1050 will get you some mighty fine tasting udon.

- Akebono Sushi, 1-9-23 Minami-Ikebukuru, +81 03-3984-4936.

- Fight Gyoza (ファイト餃子), 3-7-3 Nisisugamo, +81 03-3917-6261. Japanese gyoza is boiled ordinally. But the fight Gyozas are hoisted after boiled. It is a very famous restaurant for gyoza. So many people stand in a line in front of the restaurant.

- Souten (蒼天), Otsuka 3-39-13 (JR Otsuka South Exit, cross the tram line, walk past the shrine, left then right. If you get to the junior high school, you've gone too far), +81 03-5944-8105. High-end yakitori. Five stick set from around ¥1,600. Do try the chicken sashimi--outside the comfort zone for many visitors, but you may be pleasantly surprised. Extensive selection of nihonshu featuring Kozaemon. From ¥5,000.

Drink
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Ikebukuro has an extensive assortment of places to drink and get drunk, detailed in that article. For sampling sake, JR Otsuka station has a number of good choices:

- Edoya, (Towards south exit).

- Konakara, (Towards north exit).

- Omamori, (near Shin-Otsuka metro station).

Sleep
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Budget
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- Backpackers Guesthouse, 3-44-16-B1 Ikebukuro, +81 03-5939-8470, [5]. Said to be the "Cheapest Hostel in Tokyo", Backpackers Guesthouse offers backpackers a clean place to hang out with free internet, cable TV, hot showers and a kitchen. M-Th ¥2000, F-Su ¥2200 or ¥40,000/mo.

Mid-range
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- Crowne Plaza Metropolitan Hotel Tokyo, 1-6-1 Nishi-Ikebukuro, (toll free: +1 877 227-6963 from U.S.), [6]. This 4-star hotel has elegant rooms, complimented by many in-house restaurants including offering Sichuanese, Cantonese, Japanese and Italian cuisine.

- APA Hotel Tokyo Itabashi, 4-47-1 Kami-Ikebukuro, +81 03-5974-8111. checkin: 3PM; checkout: 11AM. This three star hotel offers a convenient location near the Itabshi Station, 3 min to Ikebukuro and 8min to Shinjuku.

Contact
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District Ikebukuro Table of Contents

• Get in

By plane

By train

By subway

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

Cafes

BarsorClubs

Cat Cafes

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-Range

• Contact

• Get out

Get in
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By plane
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The fastest way to get from Narita Airport to Ikebukuro is to take a Keisei Skyliner train to Nippori and change to a JR Yamanote Line train. This takes about 60 minutes and costs ¥2560. JR's Narita Express makes many runs to Ikebukuro, but they take longer (95 minutes) and cost more (¥3110), although for foreigners the cost can be brought down by purchasing a Suica & N'EX ticket. Some Narita Express trains terminate at Shinjuku and do not continue to Ikebukuro, in which case you'll need to take a Narita Express to Shibuya. Once there, simply wait on the same platform for the next commuter train that will bring you to Ikebukuro in two stops.

The budget option is to take the Keisei Line limited express from Narita Airport to Nippori, and change there to the Yamanote line (95 minutes, ¥1160). During the evening hours, faster Access Tokkyu commuter trains from Narita Airport to Nippori shave 20 minutes off the overall travel time against a ¥200 additional fare.

Airport Limousine buses also make runs from Narita Airport to Ikebukuro's Hotel Metropolitan and Sunshine City Prince Hotel, the latter located right next to the Sunshine 60 tower and shopping complex (about 2 hours, ¥3000).

From Haneda Airport to Ikebukuro, take the Keikyu Railway to Shinagawa and change to the JR Yamanote Line (55 minutes, ¥650). Limousine Buses run from Haneda to the same hotels mentioned above (about one hour, ¥1200).

By train
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Ikebukuro is served by the JR Yamanote, Saikyo and Shonan-Shinjuku lines. The Super View Odoriko (スーパービュー踊り子) Limited Express service departs each morning for Atami, Ito and Shimoda, and returns in the afternoon.

Two private railway lines start from Ikebukuro. The Seibu Ikebukuro Line has departures for Tokorozawa, Irumashi and Hanno, with Chichibu (ちちぶ) Limited Express trains running all the way to the national park in Chichibu. The Tobu Tojo Line runs trains to Kawagoe and Ogawamachi.

By subway
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The Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line starts here, and the Yurakucho Line for Ginza, Shin-Kiba and Wakoshi stops here. The Fukutoshin Line connects Ikebukuro to Shinjuku and Shibuya, paralleling the Yamanote Line.

Both the Yurakucho and Fukutoshin subway lines offer through-runs to the Seibu Ikebukuro and Tobu Tojo lines (at Kotake-Mukaihara and Wakoshi stations, respectively).

See
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- Sunshine 60, [1]. Sunshine 60 was once the tallest building in Japan and it remains the most prominent building within the Sunshine City complex. The surrounding Sunshine City complex includes shops, restaurants, an aquarium, and an observatory at the top of the Sunshine 60 building.

- Toyota Amlux. A 5-story automotive showroom across the street from the Sunshine 60 building.

- Nekobukuro. A unique shop on the top floor of the Tokyu Hands building where you pay 600 yen entry fee to enter and pet or play with the 20+ cats that live on the premises. The building is located at the end of Sunshine-60 dori.

- Metropolitan Art Space, on the west side of the Ikebukuro train/subway station. Has the world's longest escalator and offers various exhibits and concerts.

- Tokyo Shaheed Minar, (at the the west side of Ikebukuro train/subway station, in the Nishiguchi (West Gate) park, in front of Tokyo Metropolitan Art Space). A beautiful monument, symbolizing love to the mother language. It is based on the mother language movement, that originated in Dhaka, Bangladesh in 1952, followed by the UNESCO declaration of International Mother Language Day (21 February). It was a present from Bangladesh to the Japanese people, in 2005, recognizing Tokyo Boishakhi Mela (Bangladesh New Year Festival), organized every year in mid April, by Japan Bangladesh Society.

Do
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- Ikefukurou. A statue of an owl near the east exit. Many people use this as a meeting spot.

- Namja Town, (in Sunshine 60 on 2 & 3F), [2]. 10:00-22:00. The Namja Town has many attractions. For example there are some Japanese style haunted houses. And there are big food shops – the gyoza studium, the ice cream city, and the dessert empire of Tokyo. If customers buy the 3,900 yen "Namja Passport" tickets, they can enjoy 14 attractions and visit food shops. But if you want to visit the food shops only, you buy the 300 yen "Namja Entry" tickets.

- Manten (満天), (10 min from JR Ikebukuro station), [3]. There is a planetarium called Manten in the Sunshine city. This planetarium shows three types of programs and repeats them in a day. These three types of programs are called The Planetarium Program, The CG Planetarium Program, The Healing Program. The Planetarium Program shows some themes of programs with Japanese famous musicians. The CG Planetarium Program shows some science programs, for example the mystery of black hall. The Healing Program shows programs relax people. Some aromas are changed when scenes are changed. These programs are changed regularly. 900-1200 yen.

Buy
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- Animate, (next door to K-Books, down the street from Mandarake, and across the highway from the Sunshine 60). Lots of new anime/manga-related merchandise.

- K-Books, (next door to the Animate, down the block from Mandarake, across the highway from the Sunshine 60). Good selection of anime, manga, and posters.

- Mandarake, Lions Mansion Ikebukuro B1F, 3-15-2 Higashi-ikebukuro (Not far from the Sunshine 60). One of the newest in the Mandarake chain of used anime/manga goods stores, the Ikebukuro branch specializes in doujinshi, in particular doujinshi for girls.

- Two of Tokyo's major department store/railroad conglomerate chains, Seibu and Tobu, are based in Ikebukuro and the stores here were not long ago the largest in the world. Paradoxically, Seibu, which roughly means "west Tokyo", is on the east side of the station, while Tobu, which means "east Tokyo", is on the west side.

- Bic Camera, [4]. This discount retailer's flagship store on the east side of the station, with several branches nearby.

- Junkudo, [5]. A 9-story bookstore (top floor has English titles).

- Tokyu Hands, 1-28-10 Higashi-Ikebukuro (next to Sunshine 60). 10AM-8PM. A crazy 7 story 'DIY' store with floors of kitchenware, bath accessories, paper goods, scrap-booking supplies, tools, hardware, exotic woods, travel supplies, toys, pet supplies, and Nekobukuro on the top floor. This is a place where you can find, for example, lava lamps next to a shark suit next to a Gundam model.

Eat
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- Tobu and Seibu basements. Urban Japanese keep their grocery stores beneath their department stores. If you go to the B1 and B2 levels of the massive stores flanking the Ikebukuro station, you will find endless acres of raw and prepared food. Buy a bunch and take it back to your hotel fridge.

- Shakey's Pizza. Down Sunshine-Dori on the way to Sunshine 60, on the left, there's a Shakey's Pizza. There are lunchtime buffets with great pizza the way only Japanese like to serve it.

- Ghiottone, Nishi-Ikebukuro 3-27-1 (5 min. walk from west exit). Excellent pasta and salads, in portions that are ample for two. The crab spaghetti is very popular. No non-smoking tables.

- Kaiten Sushi. A very nice "conveyor belt" sushi restaurant

- Malay-Chan, (locate the Metropolitan Art Space and the bus loop that services that area. Walk to the curve of the loop, cross the main street (Geikijo dori) there and walk up a little street that winds left, then right. Then walk about 2 blocks farther). A small Malaysian restaurant on the west side of the train/subway station that is a little hard to find.

- Mutekiya, (on the east side of Ikebukuro, opposite Junkudo Bookstore). Good ramen.

- Vegetarian: Al-Flah, (on the righthand-side of the Royal Hotel in Ikebukuro, on the 4th floor), [6]. A halal supermarket and restaurant that sells halal food, including vegetarian curries. The store also conveniently has a bollywood-movie section.

- Namja Town, (in Sunshine 60 on 2 & 3F), [7]. 10:00-22:00. Namja Town has some big food shops in Sunshin City– the gyoza studium, the ice cream city, and the dessert empire of Tokyo. Gyoza is a kind of Japanese food. The gyoza stadium collects gyozas of many famous gyoza restaurants in Japan. The ice cream city collects many kinds of ice creams in the world. The dessert empire of Tokyo collects some famous cakes. And it has events regularly. For example many kinds of pudding were collected before. Namja Town is exhilarating but incomprehensible if you don't speak Japanese. In the ice cream section, for example, there is a shop selling over 100 varieties of ice cream in single-serving cups, almost none of which have a single non-Japanese word on the label. Still, it's easy to try various gyoza by pointing at picture menus.

Drink
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Cafes
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- Cafe du Monde, (right outside the west exit). The Tokyo version of the New Orleans cafe.

- ZOZOI, Nishi-Ikebukuro 3-22-6 (5 min. from west exit). A cozy and quiet French-style cafe located next to a small park. Light meals are served, and there's an amusing collection of French books to browse.

- ZAO, Nishi-Ikebukuro 1-18-1. This 24-hour basement coffee shop, with an interior that probably hasn't been changed since 1975, seems to be a favorite for smoking insomniacs and college students pulling all-nighters. You'll need to order something every two hours to hang around (and not fall asleep), but the toast and boiled eggs are free. If that's not enough, try the huge jumbo parfait (ice cream sundae), which is literally served in a fishbowl.

BarsorClubs
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- Bed, [8]. One of the few nightclubs in Ikebukuro.

Cat Cafes
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- Nekorobi, 3F Tact T.O Building Higashi-Ikebukuro, +81-3-6228-0646, [9]. 11:00-23:00. This café is decorated in wicker and burlap and boasts having a Nintendo Wii as well as cats. Most of the cats at this café were once strays or turned into shelters by their owners. You can use anything in the room you'll be entering, including laptop, drinks dispenser, cat toys and the Wii. Be sure to take off shoes, wash hands, and be gentle with the cats. Pricing is ¥1,000 for the first hour, then ¥300 per 15min. In the weekends you can choose to go for 3 hours for ¥2,500.

Sleep
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Budget
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- Sakura Hotel Ikebukuro, 2-40-7 Ikebukuro (6 min walk from Ikebukuro station), +81-3-3971-2237, [10]. Various rooms are good for groups and private. All staff speak English. Single 6,800yen, Dormitory 3,200yen.

- Kimi Ryokan, 2-36-8 Ikebukuro (8 min from JR Ikebukuro West Exit), +81-3-3971-3766, [11]. This friendly if very tourist-oriented minshuku (no, it's not a ryokan) is an excellent option for first time travelers to Tokyo. It is reasonably priced (4500 yen) and has English speaking staff. A nice way to spend your first night on a tatami.

Mid-Range
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- Crowne Plaza Metropolitan - Tokyo, 1-6-1 Nishi-Ikebukuro, 03-3980-1111 (fax: 03-3980-5600), [12]. A short walk away from Ikebukuro station, a decent 4-star hotel with nice, clean rooms and friendly staff who mostly speak fluent English. Limosine bus services are available to both Narita and Haneda airports.

- Dai-ichi Inn Ikebukuro, 1-42-8 Higashi-Ikebukuro, 03-3986-1221 (fax: 03-3982-4128), [13]. A 1 minute walk from the station (take East Exit), right across from the back of Parco. In-room broadband internet, massage service, 24-hour convenience store, and many other amenities. TV channel list includes CNN. Some of the staff speak near-fluent English, others not so much. Internet reservations can greatly reduce room rates.

- Hotel Grand City, 1-30-7 Higashi-Ikebukuro (5 minute walk towards Sunshine City), 03-3984-5121 (fax: 03-3984-5127), [14]. The staff don't speak English very well.

Contact
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Get out
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- Hop on the Seibu line for the 1.5-hour trip to Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park.

- Get on the Tobu Tojo line (~30 min/¥450) and get off at Kawagoe for some Little Edo experience.

District Meguto Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

Get in
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The JR Yamanote, Metro Namboku (N01), Toei Mita (I01) and Tokyu Meguro lines all pass through Meguro station. The Metro Hibiya and Tokyu Toyoko lines also stop at Naka-Meguro (中目黒), the other end of the area.

See
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- Meguro Parasitological Museum (目黒寄生虫館), 4-1-1 Shimomeguro, [1]. One of a kind and oddly popular with couples on dates, although you might want to skip lunch before (or after) your visit here as the exhibits and pictures can be rather graphic. A compact two-story building, the most famous exhibit inside is an 8.8 meter-long tapeworm, with a matching string for you to take the measurement. Entrance is free, though donations are appreciated.

- Meguro Gajoen (目黒雅叙園), (five minute walk from the West exit of JR Meguro station, adjacent to the hulking Arco Tower office building). A luxury hotel and wedding hall, with restaurants, cafes, and banquet rooms. One of the most popular attractions, though, is the spectacular public restroom.

- Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum (東京都庭園美術館), (five minutes from the East exit), [2]. Art museum housed in a classic Art Deco style structure, connected to a small park with Japanese and Western gardens and outdoor sculptures.

- Institute for Nature Study (自然教育園), (adjacent to Teien Art Museum), [3]. A 200,000 sq m nature preserve in the heart of the city, with birds and waterfowl, insects and marine life.

Do
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During cherry blossom season, the trees by the normally rather drab Meguro River bloom pink and Japanese congregate to picnic and drink by the riverside.

Eat
toc

Meguro is famous throughout Japan for sanma (さんま), or Pacific saury, a type of ocean fish. It's obviously not fished in the area; rather, its fame comes from an old story. In September, there's a sanma festival where you can try it grilled by local vendors.

- Ichariba (いちゃりば), Aobadai 1-30-11, +81 03-5722-4778. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Excellent izakaya serving up very authentic and tasty Okinawan food, try the goya champuru (bitter gourd stirfry) and the Okinawan-style raw spring rolls. Occasional free live performances of Okinawan music. Most dishes ¥500-800.

- Ju, (near Nakameguro Station). Yakitori (chicken kebab) and kimuchi chahan (fried rice with Korean pickles - tastes better than it sounds!).

- Tonki (とんき), Shimo-meguro 1-1-2 (Meguro West exit, down the hill on the left), +81 03-3491-9928. Closed Tu and third M of the month. Possibly good place to go for tonkatsu (breaded deep-fried pork cutlets), and popular with foreigners.

- Tuk Tuk, Kami-Osaki 2-13-22 (Meguro East exit, on the corner opposite Sederhana, above), +81 03-3444-5150. Only in Japan: Italian and Thai on the same menu. Fortunately they don't actually mix the tom yum kung and gnocchi, and both are good.

- Sederhana, Kami-Osaki 3-5-4 (Meguro East exit, follow the large road on right for 3 min, on the corner by the highway), +81 03-3473-0354, [4]. This Indonesian restaurant opened in 1955, and though it looks a bit run-down from the outside, it's full of atmosphere, the food is good, and the staff is friendly. Weekends and lunch by reservation only.

- Junkadelic, 4-10-4 Kamimeguro, Meguro-ku (from the east exit of Nakameguro Station, follow the train tracks south, continue past the Family Mart, the restaurant is just under the train tracks from Natural Lawson), +81 03-5725-5020, [5]. 6PM-2AM. Though the building looks a little old, this Mexican restaurant has some great Tex-Mex cuisine. The menu is not very large, but what it has is worth eating. Portions are reasonably sized, so consider getting an appetizer along with the main dish. For drinks, there are several Mexican beers and Mexican tequila available. Main dishes ¥800-1,600. (35.640978,139.694295)

Drink
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- Rakuya (楽屋), Kami-Meguro 2-15-6 (3 min from Naka-Meguro station), +81 03-3714-2607, [6]. Spacious, classy but casual restaurant-bar with live music every night.

- The Meguro Tavern, Tokyo, Meguro-ku, Shimomeguro 1-3-28, Sunwood Meguro Building 2F (Take either of the main roads leading downhill to the river from JR Meguro Station), [7]. A British-style pub with plenty of draft beers and football on the telly.

Sleep
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- The Westin Tokyo, 1-4-1 Mita, Meguro-ku, +81 03-5423-7000. Rooms are elegant and well furnished with over-sized bathrooms and workout areas. Their in house spa offers a variety of services. Rooms start at ¥33,000/night.

- Tokyu Stay Meguro-Yutenji, 2-15-7 Yutenji, Meguro-ku (Yutenji station, on the Toyoko Line from Shibuya), +81 03-5721-1109 (fax: +81 03-5401-1107), [8]. Part of the Tokyu Stay chain, these hotels are popular with business travelers. The small kitchenettes, washer/dryers, and free LAN access in all rooms makes these a good value. Singles start at ¥9,450, doubles at ¥17,850. Slight discounts are offered for extended stays.

- Princess Garden Meguro Hotel, 23 Kami-Osaki, 2 Chrome. Princess Garden offers rooms that are very comfortable. The beautiful garden and Japanese Tea Room on the hotel grounds add a level of beauty and serenity.

District Sumida Table of Contents

• Get in

See & Do

Sumo

Museums

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

• Get out

Get in
toc

The JR Sobu Line (local service) runs east-west through Sumida, connecting to the Yamanote line across the river in Akihabara. Via subway, the Toei Oedo Line loops past the western edge of the ward with connections to both Ueno in the north and Shiodome to the south. On both lines, Ryogoku Station is the closest connection to all of the ward's main attractions.

See & Do
toc

Sumo
toc

- Ryōgoku Kokugikan (両国国技館), 1-3-28 Yokoami, +81 03-3623-5111 (Japanese), [1]. The largest sumo arena in Japan with a capacity for 10,000 spectators, this is where grand tournaments or basho are held in January, May and September, starting on the second Sunday of the month. These tournaments last for 15 days, and are filled with ceremony and ritual which observe strict hierarchies not just for the wrestlers, but also for the referees and callers. The competition each day begins around 9AM with the amateurs, and from there, wrestlers compete in progressing order of seniority. The professional wrestlers start around 2:35PM, but the excitement begins when the top division makuuchi enter the ring in the dohyo-iri ceremony at 3:50PM. The tournament culminates when the high-rank yokuzuna and ozeki have their bouts, around 6PM. If you have seats far from the ring, but arrive early, it is possible to borrow some seats close to the ring until mid-afternoon, when most spectators begin to arrive. English pamphlets describing the day's program and sumo in general are available, and radios with live English commentary can be rented. Food is available inside, at somewhat inflated prices. There are now signs prohibiting you from bringing in outside food and drink, but enforcement is spotty. Advance-booking Western-style chairs on the second floor are ¥3,600, 4,900 and 8,400; Japanese-style box seats on the first floor are ¥9,200, 10,300 and 11,300. These can be purchased at ticket outlets and convenience stores, starting the month before the match. You can buy unsold seats on the day of the tournament for ¥2,100, but only at the Kokugikan box office. (35.69694,139.79333)

- Sumo Museum, first floor of the Ryogoku Kokugikan, +81 03-3622-0366 (Japanese), [2]. 10AM-4:30PM weekdays only; closed weekends and holidays. A small, quirky museum tucked inside the arena's first floor, dedicated to the history of sumo, particularly artifacts and ceremonial clothing — unfortunately, almost entirely in Japanese only. The collection rotates several times a year. During sumo tournaments, it is open daily, but only to tournament ticket holders. Free.

- If you would like to reserve Sumo tournament tickets in advance, JTB group [3] sells tour packages to Tokyo's three Sumo tournaments for ¥9800 per person, which includes a tour of the Sumo Museum and a second floor reserved seat to watch the afternoon Sumo matches. A meal package for ¥13800 includes a post-match dinner where you can feast on Sumo's signature dish, Chanko-nabe (see below).

- Instead of peering at wrestlers through binoculars from the cheap seats at Kokugikan, you can see sumo up close and personal by visiting a sumo stable (beya) to watch the morning training, generally held from 6AM-10AM daily (and no, you don't have to stick around for the whole time). Advance arrangements will be necessary, preferably with the help of a Japanese speaker, and a "donation" of around ¥1,500 is expected. While watching the training, keep quiet and do not take flash photos. Note that many stables — particularly those with very famous wrestlers — do not permit visits. Isenoumi Stable [4] has an informative (although increasingly outdated) English home page and is happy to arrange visits.

- Sumo Photo Museum (相撲写真資料館), 3-13-2 Ryogoku, +81 03-3631-2150. Open Tuesday only, but every day during sumo tournaments.

Museums
toc

- Edo-Tokyo Museum (江戸東京博物館 Edo-Tōkyō-hakubutsukan), 1-4-1 Yokoami (near Ryogoku subway station exits A3/A4; take the West exit from the JR station), +81 03-3626-9974, [5]. 9:30AM-5:30PM Tue-Sun; Sat until 7:30PM. Closed Mondays except during holidays or sumo tournament matches at nearby Ryōgoku.. One of the best museums in Tokyo, and that's saying something, this bizarre multi-story edifice suspended in midair and bearing not a small resemblance to a Star Wars Imperial Walker (meant to be a replica of an old raised warehouse) covers the history of the metropolis, starting from 1590 when it was selected as Japan's new capital Edo, all the way through the Kanto earthquake and firebombings of World War II. The museum is built with the latest technology including life-size replicas of entire buildings and the Nihombashi Bridge. Free informative tours are available in several languages, depending on which volunteers are around; audio guides in several languages always available. Pair it up with a visit to the more intimately sized Fukagawa Edo Museum in nearby Kōtō ward, just a couple of stops away on the Toei Ōedo subway line. ¥600.

- Paulownia Wood Furniture Museum (桐の博物館 kiri no hakubutsukan), 4-1-3 Ryogoku, +81 03-3632-0341. 10AM-6PM, closed W.

- Ryogoku Fireworks Museum (両国花火資料館), 2-10-8 Ryogoku, +81 03-5608-6181. Noon-4PM Th-Sa. Open daily Jul-Aug. Free.

- Tabi (Japanese socks) Museum (足袋資料館 tabi shiryokan), 1-9-3 Midori, +81 03-3631-0092. 9AM-5PM, closed Su.

Buy
toc

Eat
toc

While in sumo town the thing to do is eat sumo food, namely the hearty chanko-nabe (ちゃんこ鍋) stew that forms the bulk of a rikishi's diet. Oddly, it's actually a fairly healthy dish of chicken, fish, tofu and vegetables cooked in broth, the wrestlers just seem to eat lots of it. Many a sumo wrestler sets up a chanko restaurant when they retire, and many of those establishments can be found here. Be warned that this is usually fairly expensive, with sets starting around ¥2,500/person. You'll want at least two people, and make reservations well in advance if planning to sample chanko when the basho is in town.

- Chanko Tomoegata (巴潟), 2-17-6 Ryogoku (3 min south from JR Ryogoku West exit), 03-3632-5600, [6]. Open Tu-Su, lunch 11:30AM-2PM, dinner 5PM-11PM. One of Tokyo's oldest chanko joints, operating for over 100 years, specializing in a slightly unusual miso-flavored soup. Lunch sets at ¥840/1260 weekdays/weekends are just about the cheapest chanko you'll find anywhere and a good option for the solo traveller. Dinner starts from ¥2940/person for the Tomoegata (miso) or Yahazuyama (dashi) set and goes up to ¥8400 for the aptly humongous 9-course Yokozuna.

Drink
toc

- Popeye Beer Club, 2-18-7 Ryogoku, +81 03-3633-2120, [7]. M-F 5PM-1AM, Sa 5PM-2AM, Closed Su. Popeye's is arguably the best place in Tokyo, if not the world, to try Japanese microbrews. There are 40 beers on tap, which cover the full range of beers from familiar ales to barley wines and rauchbiers. The food menu is interesting, try the avocado and blue cheese. English menus are available. Pints of beer are around ¥900, half pints and a sampler set are available.

Popeye Beer Club note to travelers- Non-English friendly if you have problems asking about the menu or bill- Not a standing bar, you have to be seated and charged for that. Hidden seating and cover charges are a nasty surprise when you get your bill. Not recommended for a casual drink.

Sleep
toc

Accommodations are few, especially for non-Japanese speakers. Sleeping elsewhere in Tokyo and taking the train in for the day is the typical approach.

Contact
toc

Get out
toc

The little Fukagawa Edo Museum in nearby Koto Ward (From Ryogoku Subway Station, take Oedo line to Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station, exit A3) is a nice complement to the Edo-Tokyo Museum. Kiyosumi Garden is nearby.

District Ryogoku Table of Contents

• Get in

See & Do

Sumo

Museums

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

• Get out

Get in
toc

The JR Sobu Line (local service) runs east-west through Sumida, connecting to the Yamanote line across the river in Akihabara. Via subway, the Toei Oedo Line loops past the western edge of the ward with connections to both Ueno in the north and Shiodome to the south. On both lines, Ryogoku Station is the closest connection to all of the ward's main attractions.

See & Do
toc

Sumo
toc

- Ryōgoku Kokugikan (両国国技館), 1-3-28 Yokoami, +81 03-3623-5111 (Japanese), [1]. The largest sumo arena in Japan with a capacity for 10,000 spectators, this is where grand tournaments or basho are held in January, May and September, starting on the second Sunday of the month. These tournaments last for 15 days, and are filled with ceremony and ritual which observe strict hierarchies not just for the wrestlers, but also for the referees and callers. The competition each day begins around 9AM with the amateurs, and from there, wrestlers compete in progressing order of seniority. The professional wrestlers start around 2:35PM, but the excitement begins when the top division makuuchi enter the ring in the dohyo-iri ceremony at 3:50PM. The tournament culminates when the high-rank yokuzuna and ozeki have their bouts, around 6PM. If you have seats far from the ring, but arrive early, it is possible to borrow some seats close to the ring until mid-afternoon, when most spectators begin to arrive. English pamphlets describing the day's program and sumo in general are available, and radios with live English commentary can be rented. Food is available inside, at somewhat inflated prices. There are now signs prohibiting you from bringing in outside food and drink, but enforcement is spotty. Advance-booking Western-style chairs on the second floor are ¥3,600, 4,900 and 8,400; Japanese-style box seats on the first floor are ¥9,200, 10,300 and 11,300. These can be purchased at ticket outlets and convenience stores, starting the month before the match. You can buy unsold seats on the day of the tournament for ¥2,100, but only at the Kokugikan box office. (35.69694,139.79333)

- Sumo Museum, first floor of the Ryogoku Kokugikan, +81 03-3622-0366 (Japanese), [2]. 10AM-4:30PM weekdays only; closed weekends and holidays. A small, quirky museum tucked inside the arena's first floor, dedicated to the history of sumo, particularly artifacts and ceremonial clothing — unfortunately, almost entirely in Japanese only. The collection rotates several times a year. During sumo tournaments, it is open daily, but only to tournament ticket holders. Free.

- If you would like to reserve Sumo tournament tickets in advance, JTB group [3] sells tour packages to Tokyo's three Sumo tournaments for ¥9800 per person, which includes a tour of the Sumo Museum and a second floor reserved seat to watch the afternoon Sumo matches. A meal package for ¥13800 includes a post-match dinner where you can feast on Sumo's signature dish, Chanko-nabe (see below).

- Instead of peering at wrestlers through binoculars from the cheap seats at Kokugikan, you can see sumo up close and personal by visiting a sumo stable (beya) to watch the morning training, generally held from 6AM-10AM daily (and no, you don't have to stick around for the whole time). Advance arrangements will be necessary, preferably with the help of a Japanese speaker, and a "donation" of around ¥1,500 is expected. While watching the training, keep quiet and do not take flash photos. Note that many stables — particularly those with very famous wrestlers — do not permit visits. Isenoumi Stable [4] has an informative (although increasingly outdated) English home page and is happy to arrange visits.

- Sumo Photo Museum (相撲写真資料館), 3-13-2 Ryogoku, +81 03-3631-2150. Open Tuesday only, but every day during sumo tournaments.

Museums
toc

- Edo-Tokyo Museum (江戸東京博物館 Edo-Tōkyō-hakubutsukan), 1-4-1 Yokoami (near Ryogoku subway station exits A3/A4; take the West exit from the JR station), +81 03-3626-9974, [5]. 9:30AM-5:30PM Tue-Sun; Sat until 7:30PM. Closed Mondays except during holidays or sumo tournament matches at nearby Ryōgoku.. One of the best museums in Tokyo, and that's saying something, this bizarre multi-story edifice suspended in midair and bearing not a small resemblance to a Star Wars Imperial Walker (meant to be a replica of an old raised warehouse) covers the history of the metropolis, starting from 1590 when it was selected as Japan's new capital Edo, all the way through the Kanto earthquake and firebombings of World War II. The museum is built with the latest technology including life-size replicas of entire buildings and the Nihombashi Bridge. Free informative tours are available in several languages, depending on which volunteers are around; audio guides in several languages always available. Pair it up with a visit to the more intimately sized Fukagawa Edo Museum in nearby Kōtō ward, just a couple of stops away on the Toei Ōedo subway line. ¥600.

- Paulownia Wood Furniture Museum (桐の博物館 kiri no hakubutsukan), 4-1-3 Ryogoku, +81 03-3632-0341. 10AM-6PM, closed W.

- Ryogoku Fireworks Museum (両国花火資料館), 2-10-8 Ryogoku, +81 03-5608-6181. Noon-4PM Th-Sa. Open daily Jul-Aug. Free.

- Tabi (Japanese socks) Museum (足袋資料館 tabi shiryokan), 1-9-3 Midori, +81 03-3631-0092. 9AM-5PM, closed Su.

Buy
toc

Eat
toc

While in sumo town the thing to do is eat sumo food, namely the hearty chanko-nabe (ちゃんこ鍋) stew that forms the bulk of a rikishi's diet. Oddly, it's actually a fairly healthy dish of chicken, fish, tofu and vegetables cooked in broth, the wrestlers just seem to eat lots of it. Many a sumo wrestler sets up a chanko restaurant when they retire, and many of those establishments can be found here. Be warned that this is usually fairly expensive, with sets starting around ¥2,500/person. You'll want at least two people, and make reservations well in advance if planning to sample chanko when the basho is in town.

- Chanko Tomoegata (巴潟), 2-17-6 Ryogoku (3 min south from JR Ryogoku West exit), 03-3632-5600, [6]. Open Tu-Su, lunch 11:30AM-2PM, dinner 5PM-11PM. One of Tokyo's oldest chanko joints, operating for over 100 years, specializing in a slightly unusual miso-flavored soup. Lunch sets at ¥840/1260 weekdays/weekends are just about the cheapest chanko you'll find anywhere and a good option for the solo traveller. Dinner starts from ¥2940/person for the Tomoegata (miso) or Yahazuyama (dashi) set and goes up to ¥8400 for the aptly humongous 9-course Yokozuna.

Drink
toc

- Popeye Beer Club, 2-18-7 Ryogoku, +81 03-3633-2120, [7]. M-F 5PM-1AM, Sa 5PM-2AM, Closed Su. Popeye's is arguably the best place in Tokyo, if not the world, to try Japanese microbrews. There are 40 beers on tap, which cover the full range of beers from familiar ales to barley wines and rauchbiers. The food menu is interesting, try the avocado and blue cheese. English menus are available. Pints of beer are around ¥900, half pints and a sampler set are available.

Popeye Beer Club note to travelers- Non-English friendly if you have problems asking about the menu or bill- Not a standing bar, you have to be seated and charged for that. Hidden seating and cover charges are a nasty surprise when you get your bill. Not recommended for a casual drink.

Sleep
toc

Accommodations are few, especially for non-Japanese speakers. Sleeping elsewhere in Tokyo and taking the train in for the day is the typical approach.

Contact
toc

Get out
toc

The little Fukagawa Edo Museum in nearby Koto Ward (From Ryogoku Subway Station, take Oedo line to Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station, exit A3) is a nice complement to the Edo-Tokyo Museum. Kiyosumi Garden is nearby.

District Taito Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

Markets

• Eat

• Drink

Cafes

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
toc

Talk to a Tokyoite about "downtown" (下町 shitamachi), and he will think of the Taito district: the train station of Ueno, where migrants from the deep north first arrived in their search for a better life, and the temples of Asakusa, once a boomtown full of prostitutes and gangsters but now long since past its prime. Stuck in a low-rent post-war time warp, here Japan's hypermodernity takes a bit of a breather, with such quaint oddities as bustling street markets and even the occasional wooden house.

Get in
toc

Ueno Station is the major hub, connecting together northbound Shinkansen passengers with the JR Yamanote line, the subway Ginza and Hibiya lines, and the Keisei trains to Narita.

If visiting Tokyo University in Bunkyo, the Hongō Sanchōme Stations of the Marunouchi and Ōedo subway lines are the most convenient.

See
toc

- Asakusa, covered in a separate article, known particularly for Senso-ji Temple (Asakusa Kannon).

- Ueno, covered in a separate article, packed full of museums and Tokyo's best-known cherry blossom viewing spot.

- Shitamachi Museum Annex, 2-10-6 Ueno-Sakuragi, +81 03-3823-4408. 9:30AM4:30PM, closed M, and Tu following a holiday. Many buildings scattered around the Yanaka district survived the bombings of World War II, including this former sake store built in 1910. Characteristic of Meiji-era architecture, the building now houses a small museum of sake and beer equipment. Free.

- SCAI The Bathhouse, Kashiwayu-Ato 6-1-23 Yanaka, [2]. Closed Su, M, holidays. A small gallery showing the work of contemporary artists, the building is a former sento, or bathhouse.

- Kyu-Iwasaki-tei Teien (Former Iwasaki Family House and garden), 1-3-45, Ikenohata (On a side street between Ueno Park and Tokyo University Hospital. Look for small blue directional signs). Not a major tourist attraction, but an interesting bit of history. The house was built in the Meiji era in the style of an American or British mansion. In WWII the fire raids consumed most of the houses behind the mansion, which was used by GHQ during the occupation. A few attached Japanese-style rooms remain. Sit and sip green tea. The garden--mostly lawn and trees--is of no great interest.

Do
toc

Buy
toc

Markets
toc

Yanaka (谷中), Nezu (根津) and Sendagi (千駄木) are adjacent low-key commercial and residential neighborhoods full of traditional, quirky little shops, particularly along the very tongue-in-cheek Yanaka Ginza (谷中銀座, [3]) shopping street. The area is best reached on the Metro Chiyoda line to Sendagi or the JR Yamanote Line to Nippori.

- Chaho Kanekichi-en (茶舗金吉園), Yanaka 3-11-10, [4]. An old-school tea shop near the entrance to Yanaka Ginza, just follow the smell of roasting tea. They prepare their own blends, which are uniformly excellent: try the slightly bitter Snow Plum (雪の梅 Yuki-no-Ume, ¥600 per 100g) or the unusual Yanaka Midori (谷中みどり, ¥600-1000 per 100g), a mix of roasted tea stems (the cheapest tea) with tea-ceremony grade matcha (the most expensive tea). Ask to see the private garden and if they're in a good mood they just might let you have a peek.

- Gotō no Ame (後藤の飴). Closed Wednesdays. A traditional Japanese candy (ame) shop at the very end of Yanaka Ginza, everything sold here is made on premises and quite cheap (¥100+).

Eat
toc

- Aoi Marushin, 1-4-4 Asakusa, +81 03-3841-0110. Tempura, Tempura, Tempura. Aoi Marushin is the largest tempura restaurant in Tokyo!

- Bentenyama Miyakozushi Souhonten, 2-1-16 Asakusa, +81 03-3844-0034. This is a very small, very expensive sushi restaurant in Taito. If you are a sushi buff this is that place for you, with fantastic sushi and great ambiance.

- Zakuro, 3-14-13 Nishi-Nippori (3 min directly west of JR Nippori North Exit), +81 03-3822-1543, [5]. Located in the heart of the traditional Yanaka neighborhood, this Persian/Turkish restaurant goes all-out on the "dining experience": you sit on the carpeted floor, they make you wear middle-eastern garb, and dessert includes a hookah (water-pipe) to puff on! And all the while, the owner wanders from table to table making wisecracks in Japanese. The set dinner course (¥2000) is guaranteed to leave anyone stuffed.

Drink
toc

Cafes
toc

- Yanaka Bossa, 6-1-27 Yanaka, +81 03-3823-5952 (yanakabossa@r9.dion.ne.jp), [6]. 11:30AM-8PM, closed Tu. Coffees and light meals with a Brazilian theme.

Sleep
toc

Taito has Tokyo's best range of cheap to midrange accommodation. The listings below cover only more far-flung bits of the district, see Asakusa and Ueno for listings of hotels in the immediate vicinity of the two central stations.

Budget
toc

The area around Minami-Senju (南千住), near the northern end of the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line, has some of Tokyo's cheapest budget accommodations. The typical room is an individual tatami flat of 2 square-meters, with television and air-conditioning. The bedding is Japanese style (futon set and pillow). All hotels listed here cater regularly to backpackers and have some English ability.

- bakpak Tokyo Hostel, 3-12-5 Ryusen (take Hibiya subway line to Minowa Station (H19), exit 1B), +81 03-38753264, [7]. Dorms from ¥2100/night, private from ¥3500/night.

- Juyoh Hotel, 2-15-3 Kiyokawa (10 min walk south from Minami-senju Station), +81 03-3875-5362 (fax: +81 03-5603-5775), [8]. Very nice cheap hotel, prices ranging from ¥3200 for a single (¥2980 with a discount coupon printable from their web page, includes cleaning service every other day) to ¥6400 for a double (¥5960 with coupon). Internet access available in the lobby, five PC's and Macs available; wireless and ethernet support for laptops.

- New Azuma, 2-38-3 Kiyokawa, +81 03-6802-0716, [9]. Single room range from ¥2500 to ¥3100 depending on the season.

- New Koyo, 2-26-13 Nihonzutsumi, +81 03-3873-0343, [10]. Single room range from ¥2500-2700 depending on the size.

Mid-range
toc

- Andon Ryokan, 2-34-10 Nihonzutsumi (5 min walk from Minowa subway station), +81 03-3873-8611 (fax: 03-3873-8612), [11]. Run by the same family as New Koyo, this is a well-kept ryokan north of Ueno. ¥8190 for double/twin.

- Annex Katsutaro Ryokan (アネックス勝太郎旅館), 3-8-4 Yanaka (near Yanaka Ginza shopping district), +81 03-3828-2500 (fax: +81 03-3821-5400), [12]. Japanese-style rooms, Internet available. Built in 2001. 1 person ¥6300, 2 people ¥10,500.

- Sawanoya Ryokan, 2-3-11 Yanaka (7 min walk from Nezu station, 10 min taxi from Ueno station), +81 03-3822-2251 (sawanoya@tctv.ne.jp, fax: +81 03-3822-2252), [13]. Well-known ryokan, all bedrooms with tatami floors. 2 rooms with bath, the 10 others share two Japanese-style baths and showers. Good neighborhood to simply wander and look at the houses and gardens. Free internet and LAN points in all rooms. Friendly helpful staff. Closed 29 Dec-3 Jan. Single ¥4935-5250 without bathroom, double ¥9240/9870 without/with bath, triple ¥12600/14175 without/with bath.

- Weekly Nippori Center (ウィークリーセンター日暮里), 3-2-12 Yanaka (8 min. walk from JR Nippori Station and 3 mins from Sendagi Station on the Chiyoda Line), +81 03-5834-015, [14]. From ¥3700 for single to ¥7800 for triple.

Contact
toc

Get out
toc

District Bunkyo Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

Gardens

Temples & Shrines

Other Attractions

• Do

Tokyo Dome City

• Learn

University of Tokyo

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

Get in
toc

There are six subway lines running through the district with a total of 20 stations.

- Chiyoda: Nezu, Yushima, Sendagi

- Marunouchi: Myogadani, Korakuen, Hongo Sanchome, Ochanomizu

- Yurakucho: Gokokuji, Edogawabashi

- Namboku: Korakuen, Todaimae, Honkomagome

- Oedo: Iidabashi, Kasuga, Hongo Sanchome

- Mita: Suidobashi, Kasuga, Hakusan, Sengoku

Komagome, while technically just over the line in neighboring Toshima, has also been included in this guide.

See
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Gardens
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- Koishikawa Kōrakuen (小石川後楽園), 1-6-6 Kōraku, Bunkyō-ku (Located near Tokyo Dome, a few minutes from Iidabashi Station on the Toei Ōedo Line), [2]. 9AM-5PM (last entry 4:30PM), closed 29 Dec-01 Jan. Laid out in the 17th century, this splendid traditional garden boasts a large collection of trees and flowering plants that provide touches of beauty all year round. Winding paths, wooded hills, ponds teeming with ducks and fish. The place can be a little crowded at certain times of year (such as during the cherry blossom season in late March-mid April), but there's plenty of room for everyone. 300 yen.

- Koishikawa Botanical Garden of the University of Tokyo (小石川植物園), Hakusan 3-7-1 (A bit of a walk from Hakusan subway station; Follow the signs). Not one of the great gardens of Japan and sometimes a bit shabby, but a pleasant stroll with interesting trees, an medicinal herb garden and several ponds. Not to be confused with Koishikawa Korakuen.

Temples & Shrines
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- Nezu Jinja.

- Gokokuji.

- Denzuin.

Other Attractions
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- St. Mary's Cathedral (Tokyo Cathedral), [3]. Seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Tokyo. Designed by the famous architect Tange Kenzō, this ultramodern church was built in the 1960s to replace an older structure that was destroyed during the war.

- Bunkyo-ku Civic Center, (Korakuen station of the Marunouchi line). The lavish government building for the Bunkyo ward of Tokyo, once described in the Japan Times as "a colossal Pez candy dispenser." A free observation deck on the 25th floor, jutting out of the top like the Starship Enterprise, commands a fine view of much of Tokyo. Free.

Do
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Bunkyo ward is a nice place to walk, but it can be a tough stroll as this area is famous for a number of slopes. There being 433 slopes in Tokyo, as many as 173 of them are located in this ward. Some are named, and some are not. There stands a plate written its history on each slope. Even if you didn’t know anything about this area, it is fun to know its names. There are many unique names, such as Kaiun-zaka (Good luck slope), Yūrei-zaka (Ghost slope), or Ijin-zaka (Barbarian slope). You can look at these unique names on books, some of which only focus on the slopes.

A free PDF guide [4] containing several themed walking tours is available on the Bunkyō City website.

Tokyo Dome City
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Tokyo Dome City [5] is an attractions complex featuring a large indoor stadium, an amusement park, bowling alley, off-track betting center, and shoppingmall. Tokyo Dome is one of several Tokyo stadiums. It is home to the Yomiuri Giants baseball team and also hosts concerts, trade show events, and professional sports.

- Tokyo Dome, [6].

- Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum, 1-3-61, Kōraku, Bunkyō-ku, Tōkyō 112-0004 (Entrance to the right of Tokyo Dome's Gate 21), [7]. Tu-Su 10AM-6PM Mar-Sep, 10AM-5PM Oct-Feb, closed 29 Dec-1 Jan and on most Mondays. ¥500, seniors ¥300, children ¥200; discounts for groups of 20+.

Learn
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Bunkyo is known as a seat of learning, with 15 institutions of higher education.

University of Tokyo
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The University of Tokyo (東京大学 Tōkyō daigaku, [8]), formerly the Imperial University and still Japan's supremely well-funded Harvard, Yale, and MIT all rolled into one, has its main Hongō campus in Bunkyo. Around 2000 foreign students study at the University, but competition for places can be fierce. The University of Tokyo also attracts many travelers as a place to look around and to have some food.

The Red Gate (赤門 Akamon) on the Hongo street was built in 1827, when a daughter of the then Shogun, Ienari Tokugawa, married the Daimyo who lived in the premises. Inside the gate are the General Library and the Graduate Schools of Economics, Literature, and Education. To the left side of the gate is the Communication Center which is actually a souvenir shop, and to the right side, there is the university museum. The grounds are sprinkled liberally with large, stately gingko trees, whose leaf can be found on the seal of the university.

At the center of the campus is the Japanese garden of Ikutoku-en (育徳園) — the Virtue-Teaching Garden — built around 1630 as the garden of Maeda Toshitsune, one of the wealthiest daimyo in the Tokugawa era. At its center is Sanshiro Pond (三四郎池 Sanshiro-ike), in the shape of the Japanese character kokoro (心), meaning "heart" or "spirit". Both garden and pond are, regrettably, rather poorly kept.

To the north of the pond there is the auditorium, Yasuda Kodo which became a symbol of the student activism in 1968-69, when the building was occupied by students as a base facility for activities to change the University registration. In the basement floor there is a large-scale student canteen called Chuo Shokudo (central canteen), offering cheap if rather mediocre food, and a University Co-op where you can buy T-shirts and ball-point pens with the university logo. To the east of the auditorium is the main building of the Graduate School of Science, where one of the largest photomultiplier tubes, which contributed to the Kamioka neutrino experiments, is exhibited.

The campus has around 20 places to eat, including Starbucks, Subway and several student canteens. Capo Pellicano is at the 13rd floor of the main (tallest) building of the Graduate School of Medicine. Lunch menus are for around ¥900. The view of buildings in Shinjuku and Roppongi from the western side of the floor should not be missed.

The university also has the Koishikawa Botanical Garden in Hakusan.

- The Toyo Bunko (東洋文庫), Honkomagome 2-28-21 (10 min from JR Komagome station). The Toyo Bunko is a special library and a research institute of Oriental studies. The research focuses on Asian history and cultures. The Toyo Bunko collects and saves historical records of Asia. The collection of books exceeds 950,000 items. People can read the books free of charge. Library materials cannot leave the building. Photocopiers are available for use at a minimal charge.

Buy
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- La Qua (ラクーア), Connected to Korakuen station (Marunouchi Line). La Qua is a new shopping mall with some attractions attached. It opened in 2003, replacing a section of the amusement park at Tokyo Dome City. There are boutiques, a grocery store, restaurants, a hairdresser, massage salon, and gym. In addition a roller coaster runs along the roof, and there are other amusement attractions including a water slide and a concert stage. Among all these, the main accommodation is the LaQua spa. Here you can take a spa bath, sit on a comfortable chair and do whatever you like. Note that it is cheaper to spend a night in here than in any hotel, however, people with tattoos are not allowed to enter.

- Seijo Ishii. A large grocery store in La Qua, with many imported foods and wines. Many frozen products are sold in restaurant packs.

Eat
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- Fire House, Hongo 4-5-10 (From Hongo Sanchome station, Oedo or Marunouchi line, go to main intersection and look for roller coaster in distance. Go that direction, on right side of street; restaurant is before next traffic light), +81 03-3815-6044, [9]. A popular hamburger restaurant decorated with American memorabilia.

- Goenmon, Hon-Komagome 1-1-26 (Nearest station is Hakusan), +81 03-3811-2015. Serves tofu dishes in a traditional garden setting. Reservation required.

- Hantei, Nezu 2-12-15 (From Nezu Station, exit 2, cross main street (Rte 437), and turn left. Restaurant is halfway down the block), +81 03-3828-1440. Serves kushiage (deep fried skewered food) in a rare old wooden building.

- Komatsuan (小松庵), Komagome 3-3-21 (5 min from JR Komagome station), +81 03-3917-2536, [10]. 11AM-10PM. Obsessively perfectionist handmade soda noodles for connoisseurs, made using only buckwheat from a certain village in Hokkaido and rolled on the thighs of virgins — or at least that's what you'd expect from the price. Their famous sakurakiri soba, available only from Apr-Jun, has real cherry blossom's leaves mixed in. ¥1000-3000.

- Nonki (呑気), 1-20-6 Mukōgaoka (near Tōdaimae station). Tokyo's longest-running oden (fish soup) shop, founded in the Meiji era and still going strong. The centerpiece of the small shop is a giant cauldron full of boiling oden goodness. Order with the phrase tekitō-ni to let the chef decide. Figure on ¥1000 for a serving and a beer to wash it down.

- ALPES, 3-2-8 Komagome (1min from JR Komagome station), 03-3917-2627, [11]. 10:00-20:00. Sells many kinds of cakes. And it has café space. The decoration of café is like classical hotel’s lobby. And ALPES is famous for butter cream. Most popular cake is a cream puff.

Drink
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Sleep
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- Hotel Kizankan, 4-37-20 Hongo (from Hongo-Sanchome subway stations, go down the small street between the koban--police box--and McDonalds), [12]. This basic business hotel is convenient for those visiting Tokyo University. Minutes from the Hongo-Sanchome stations of the Oedo and Marunouchi subway lines, and close to the many small restaurants in front of the university. Little English is spoken, but foreigners are welcome. Singles from ¥7980, twins from ¥8925.

- Forest Hongo Hotel, 6-16-4 Hongo, [13]. A bit nicer (and more expensive) than the standard business hotel, this is a good choice for visitors to Tokyo University, but not convenient otherwise. Some English is spoken and the hotel hosts many foreign guests. Singles from ¥10,164, twins from ¥18,480.

- Toyoko Inn Korakuen Bunkyokuyakusho-mae, (Nearest stations: Korakuen on the Namboku and Marunouchi Lines; Kasuga on the Oedo and Mita Lines), [14]. Toyoko Inns are inexpensive business hotels, but have a good range of amenities. Their access maps are exceptionally clear, with an English version for you and Japanese for the taxi driver. This one is not near any tourist destinations but convenient to major subway lines. Singles, doubles and twins, all under ¥10,000.

- Tokyo Dome Hotel, 1-3-61 Koraku (Nearest stations: Suidobashi on the JR and Mita Lines; Korakuen on the Marunouchi Line), +81 03-5805-2111, [15]. This is an international hotel at competitive prices. Several restaurants, ranging from reasonable to very expensive. Doubles from ¥24,000.

- Four Seasons at Chinzan-so, 2-10-8 Sekiguchi (Nearest station: Edogawabashi), +81 03-3943-222, [16]. A flawless luxury hotel with prices to match. Location is a bit out of the way; expect to take taxis. Doubles from ¥55,000; the Imperial Suite is ten times as much.

Contact
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District Asakusa Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

Sensōji

Other temples and shrines

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

• Get out

Get in
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Asakusa is the terminus of the Metro Ginza line (G19), which is the best way to get into the area, perhaps by connecting from the Yamanote line at Ueno. Other options are to take the eponymous Toei Asakusa line(A18), which carves a path through eastern and southern Tokyo, or by taking the Toei Oedo Line to the Kuramae Station(E11), or by using the Tobu-Isesaki Line.

Cab Station Ltd's Super Shuttle bus service runs four daily round-trips between Narita Airport and Asakusa for ¥1000. Buses pick up/discharge near the Toei Asakusa subway and the Tsukuba Express line.

Cruises down the Sumidagawa river depart from a wharf only 5-minute walk from the temple, by the Azuma-bashi bridge. There are a number of boat routes available, so have a look at the map and then decide which one to pick.

See
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Sensōji
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Sensōji (浅草寺), also known as Asakusa Kannon, is Tokyo's largest Buddhist temple and a major attraction for Japanese and foreigners alike. Take the Asakusa exit of the subway and follow the crowds.

- Up first is the Kaminarimon (雷門) or "Thunder Gate", featuring a much-photographed giant lantern and statues of guardian gods Raijin (god of thunder) and Fujin (god of wind). First built in 942, the gate has been destroyed numerous times and the current incarnation dates to only 1950. The Nakamise shopping arcade leading up to the temple starts after the gate (see Buy).

- At the end of the arcade is the main gate Hōzōmon (宝蔵門), notable for a giant straw sandal (waraji) hung up on one side. This gate too is guarded by ferocious guardian gods.

- The perennially busy Kannondō (観音堂, Kannon Hall) is behind the gate, with a steady stream of worshippers wafting incense over themselves and trooping up the steps to pray and donate. According to legend, the hall was originally built in 628 to house a statue of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, fished out of the Sumida River by two brothers.

- To the west is the Gojūnoto (五重塔, 5-Story Pagoda), reputedly containing some of the ashes of the Buddha.

Other temples and shrines
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- Asakusa Jinja (浅草神社). To the east behind the temple is this Shinto shrine devoted to protecting the Buddhist temple in a typically Japanese arrangement. The fairly plain shrine is not much to look at, but is notable as the focal point of the Sanja Matsuri festival (see Do).

- Chingodo Shrine. If you turn left before the Hozomon gate and head west for a few hundred meters, this quiet shrine is on your left. The shrine is dedicated to the Japanese raccoon dog tanuki, notably primarily for its big flask of sake and gigantic testicles (at least when depicted as a statue).

- Denpoin Temple (伝法院). Further down to the west, this temple has a beautiful private garden not generally accessible to the public, but you might get lucky if you ask.

Do
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- Sanja Matsuri (三社祭). Organized at Asakusa Jinja yearly on the third weekend in May, this is Tokyo's largest festival (matsuri) and attracts up to 2 million spectators. The main event is a procession known as Daigyoretsu, when traditional performers and musicians parade through the streets, while on the next two days portable shrines (mikoshi) are carried to and from the temple for purification.

- Asakusa Samba Carnival. Held on the last Saturday of August. The street parade, which features thousands of participants from all over Japan, is held in the afternoon around Sensoji, and there are some stage shows in the evening. The event started in 1981, it's the biggest party of the year for the many Japanese-Brazilian residents of Tokyo.

- Hanayashiki (花やしき), [1]. Next to the Sensoji temple grounds is this small and somewhat lackluster carnival complex with rides, booths, and games. The neighborhood theatre specializes in showing classic Japanese films, as many of the tourists are elderly Japanese.

Buy
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The busy shopping street leading from the Kaminarimon gate to the temple is the covered Nakamise (仲見世) [2] arcade, selling all sorts of Buddhist paraphernalia as well as assorted tourist kitsch. This is one of the best places in Tokyo to buy souvenirs (the other being the Oriental Bazaar in Omotesando), but note more expensive items such as swords and kimonos are likely to be of inferior quality. Slightly nicer crafts, rather than mass-produced kitsch, can be found at good prices if you walk up to the temple, turn right, and turn right again on the first small street running parallel to Nakamise. You will see plenty of small shops in this general area which have better quality souvenirs and gifts, like handkerchiefs, strings of hand-made silk balls, hairclips, etc.

A more offbeat shopping option is Kappabashi-dori (かっぱ橋), best reached from Tawaramachi station on the Ginza line. This is Tokyo's restaurant wholesale district, which sells plastic food, metal spatulas, deep fryers and an immense variety of affordable crockery. Some shops sell only in wholesale quantities, but many are happy to sell single items and factory-made Japanese pottery (which to the casual eye is indistinguishable from the handmade kind) can sell for as little as ¥100 a piece. Another bargain is high-quality Japanese kitchen knives, which are generally much cheaper in Japan. Note that most stores here are closed on Sundays.

- Denkama (田窯), at the corner of Kappabashi-dori and Asakusa-dori. A particularly good boutique specializing in handmade Japanese pottery. The discount racks outside are downright cheap at several hundred yen a pop, but more expensive items on the second floor may run into tens of thousands of yen.

Asakusabashi (浅草橋), two stops south on the Toei Asakusa Line, is a wholesale district which these days is known for its shops specializing in bead craft supplies. There are also many stores selling traditional Japanese festival and party supplies.

- Kiwa Seisakusho (貴和製作所), Asakusabashi 2-1-10, [3]. 9:30AM-6:30PM daily except Sunday. No less than 5 floors of plastic baubles of all shapes and sizes. Three shops in Asakusabashi alone, the largest near exits A4 and A2 of the metro.

Eat
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Asakusa is famous for its senbei rice crackers, grilled on the spot, flavored with soy and usually wrapped in seaweed. There are many competing shops in the Nakamise arcade, and packages of senbei are a very popular souvenir among the Japanese as well. Kaminari okoshi, a sweet snack made of rice, peanuts, and syrup, originated from food stalls near Kaminarimon in the Edo period. Asakusa is also famous for its tempura, fried prawns and vegetables. You can find many tempura restaurants (high and low budget) in the streets near Nakamise doori.

Budget
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- Nishiyama Sweets (甘味処　西山), Kaminarimon 2-19-10 (Just off the main intersection, towards Kaminarimon), +81 03 5830-3145, [4]. Closed Wed. After an exhausting day visiting the temples, grab some hot steamed dumplings outside, or step inside for traditional desserts such as oshiruko (grilled rice cake in a sweet-bean porridge) or cream an-mitsu (gelatin cubes in molasses with candied fruit and ice cream). This very simple shop serving tea and sweets has been in business since 1852.

- Sansada (三定), Asakusa 1－２－２ (Jus right of Kaminarimon), +81 03 3841-3400, [5]. Open at 11:30AM. Over 150 years of history. Try their tempura and soba set! Or the fresh deep fried flour/batter at the front of the restaurant. You can smell them from a mile away, because they use sesame oil.(Be prepared, because there is no English menu, and no one speaks English)

Mid-range
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- Aoi-Marushin (葵丸進), 1-4-4 Asakusa, +81 03 3841-0110, [6]. Good tempura in a convenient location, with fifty years of history behind it.

- Daikokuya (大黒家), 1-38-10 Asakusa, +81 03 3844-1111. Arguably Tokyo's most famous tempura restaurant, with a history of more than 100 years. Be prepared for extremely long queues during meal times. An English menu is available on request.

Splurge
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- Maguro Bito. Get there early or late to enjoy the best revolving sushi in Tokyo. Ask for recomendations from the chefs to enjoy interesting items that, although you have likely never even heard of, are savory. All in all, if you like revolving sushi (kaiten sushi) then you must visit this location. Meals ¥2000-5000, draft beer ¥500.

Drink
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Asakusa's local specialty drink is Denki Bran, a stiff brandy-based cocktail which originated at the Kamiya Bar but can be ordered at most drinking establishments in the area.

- Kamiya Bar (神谷バー), Asakusa 1-1-1 (right on the corner at the main intersection), (03)3841-5400, [7]. 11:30AM-10PM. The home of the Denki Bran cocktail; first opened in 1880 and a truly local institution. The ground floor is a large beer-hall-like bar, the second is a western-style restaurant, and the upper floor serves Japanese food. Find a seat at one of the shared tables, buy your tickets at the counter, and join in the fun.

- Bar Sandglass, Asakusa, Kaminarimon 1-16-2 (1 minute walk north of Tawaramachi metro station, turn right after the Jonathan's restaurant.). If stuck in Asakusa at drinking time, Bar Sandglass is a good place to stop. This stylish, diminutive (max. 10 people - don't bring a crowd) bar is tucked away in the back streets of Asakusa. For a drink with the friendly locals any night of the week, this is the place to come; no Japanese ability necessary.

- Asakusa Naniwaya, Asakusa2-12-4, [8]. AM10:00-PM7:00. Asakusa Naniwaya branch the original of Taiyaki Naniwaya Sohonten( Azabu Jyu-ban).The cafe in the shop, you can enjoy the Green tea and coffee with all handmade Japanese sweets.

Sleep
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Asakusa is a popular accommodation choice for budget travelers and there are many cheap ryokan catering to foreigners in the area. For even cheaper (but less convenient) options, see the Taito district article.

Budget
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- Asakusa Riverside Capsule Hotel, 2-20-4, Kaminarimon, +81 03 3844-5117, [9]. checkin: 3PM; checkout: 10AM. Cheap and simple capsule hotel. Very accessible. Capsules for women too. Male baths overlook the Sumida River. ¥3000.

- Asakusa Vista Hotel, 2-2-9, Kotobuki, Taitoku (1-minute walk from Tokyo Metro Ginza Line Tawaramachi Station), +81 03 3842-8421, [10]. checkin: 3PM; checkout: 11:00a.m.. Great location. ¥5000.

- Khaosan Tokyo Guesthouse, +81 03 5856-6560, [11]. This group of guest houses has 3 different hostels within 5 minutes of Asakusa station. They also run a traveler's bar and you get 1 free drink when you stay. There are dormitories as well as private rooms available. ¥2000.

- Sakura Hostel Asakusa (サクラホステル浅草), 2-24-2 Asakusa, +81 03 3847-8111, [12]. checkin: 1PM; checkout: 11AM. The largest hostel in Tokyo, located right behind the theme park. Accommodations for individual backpackers, families, and group travelers. Very friendly staff. ¥2940.

- Taito Ryokan, (Closest station is Tawaramachi on the Ginza line), +81 03 3843-2822, [13]. An old post-war house converted into an inn. Friendly staff. Shared shower; two shared baths. No frills and thin walls, but you can't beat the price. A few blocks from Nakamise Street and Sensoji temple. ¥3000 per person per night.

- Tokyo Ryokan, +81 090 8879-3599, [14]. A newly built, modern inn with high standard. Friendly staff. Shared shower and bathrooms. Just rooms and futons are provided, but at a low price. ¥3000.

Mid-range
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- Ryokan Shigetsu, +81 03 3843-2345, [15]. A nice small hotel with a mix of Japanese style and western style rooms. It is located very conveniently right next to the famous Nakamise Street in Asakusa. Friendly and helpful staff. Free internet in all rooms, two Japanese style baths and showers. ¥7665-21,000.

- Sukeroku-no-Yado-Sadachiyo, 2-20-1 Asakusa (A 10 minute walk from Tawaramachi Station or 15-minute walk from Asakusa Station.), +81 03 3842-6431 (front@sadachiyo.co.jp, fax: +81 03 3842-6433), [16]. checkin: 4PM; checkout: 10AM. Japanese style ryokan. On a quiet street. All rooms have shower/bath and toilet. Internet available. Two public baths, two tatami banquet halls, and a lounge. Singles ¥14,000, doubles ¥19,000, &yen1000 more on weekends and holidays.

Get out
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Asakusa is a large Tokyo hub of the private Tobu railway, and you can transported to a different world from here if you have two hours to spare:

- Kinugawa — a hot spring resort fallen on hard times

- Nikko — with its national parks and opulent shrines

District Ueno Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

Tokyo National Museum

Museums

Other

• Buy

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

• Get out

Get in
toc

Ueno Station was at one time the place from which steam locomotives chugged off to the snowy northeast, but now the Shinkansen just make a brief stop. Ueno Station is the starting point of the JR Joban line, and the JR Yamanote and Keihin-Tohoku lines stop here as well.

The Keisei Skyliner and most Keisei limited expresses from Narita Airport terminate at Keisei Ueno Station, just south of the larger JR station.

Cab Station Ltd's Super Shuttle bus service runs four daily round-trips between Narita Airport and Ueno (near the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line Inaricho Station) for ¥1000.

Tokyo Metro's Hibiya and Ginza subway lines (stations H-17 and G-16) underpin both stations, with direct connecting passages to each.

See
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Ueno Park (上野公園 Ueno-kōen), adjacent to the station, is home to most of the attractions in the area, including the Ueno Zoo and a concentration of Japan's best museums. In cherry blossom season, Ueno Park is Tokyo's most popular spot for outdoor hanami parties.

Tokyo National Museum
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Tokyo National Museum (東京国立博物館 Tōkyō kokuritsu hakubutsukan), [1]. Tu-Su 9:30AM-5PM. General admission ¥600, university students ¥400, high school and younger free. Special exhibitions charge separate admission fees.

A gigantic complex that houses almost 100,000 art objects covering Japanese history from the Jomon period to the 20th century. Some descriptions are in English. Admission includes access to the following buildings:

- Honkan is the main museum which is notable for the breadth of its displays. It displays works of artistic and historical value value, including Buddhist statues, calligraphy, tea ceremony art, swords and armor, folding screen artwork, noh and kabuki-related items, and ukiyo-e woodblock prints.

- Heiseikan is an archaeological museum which displays excavated items, such as pottery and burial statues from early periods. Heiseikan also houses special exhibitions.

- Toyokan exhibits art from east Asia, India and Egypt. Closed through 2012 for renovation; some exhibits are on display in the gallery called Hyokeikan.

- The Gallery of Horyuji Treasures houses art donated by Horyuji temple (near Nara) in 1878. The modern museum building, designed in 1999 by Yoshio Taniguchi, is worth a visit for its own architectural merits.

Museums
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- National Museum of Western Art (国立西洋美術館, Kokuritsu Seiyō Bijutsukan?), [2]. Daily 9:30AM-5PM. Houses an extensive collection of Western art, including the original of Rodin's famous The Thinker. Entry ¥420; free admission on the 2nd and 4th Saturdays of each month.

- National Science Museum (国立科学博物館 Kokuritsu kagaku hakubutsukan), [3]. Recently re-opened in a new building, focuses on the living world, with life-sized representations of practically every life form the earth has ever seen, from the blue whale (outside the old building) to hundreds of exotic insects. There are also sections covering technology, the physical sciences, and hands-on exhibits for children, as well as the stuffed and mounted body of Hachiko, of Shibuya statue fame.

- Shitamachi Museum (下町風俗資料館), near the southeast corner of Shinobazu Pond. A small museum that offers a glimpse into life in the area in the early 20th century, with re-created houses and stores, and cultural artifacts.

Other
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- Saigō Takamori Statue (西郷隆盛像). Near the main entrance to the park from JR station stands an unassuming statue of a pudgy man walking his dog. This is Saigō Takamori, a famous samurai general best known for leading the doomed Satsuma Rebellion against the Meiji government (and the inspiration for Hollywood blockbuster The Last Samurai). These days, it's the canonical place for meeting people at the park.

- Ueno Zoo (上野動物園). Tu-Su 9:30AM-4:30PM (last entry 4PM). Has over three hundred animals. ¥600.

- Shinobazu Pond (不忍池 Shinobazu-ike), adjacent to Ueno Park. Full of water lilies and waterfowl and has the picturesque little Bentendō Hall shrine, dedicated to the goddess Benzaiten, in the middle.

Buy
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- Ameyoko (アメ横). A packed shopping bazaar full of stalls selling almost anything you can imagine. It runs roughly south of Ueno station along the inside of the JR Yamanote line tracks to Okachimachi station. If you are looking for a more typically "Asian" market street in Tokyo, with bargaining expected and friendly vendors trying to out-shout each other, this is it. Definitely a good place for souvenirs for friends back home. It is often mistakenly believed that the district got its name in the post-war years from the American blue jeans and other items that were sold on the black market, but really the 'ame' comes from the sweets (ame in Japanese) that were sold there.

Eat
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There's plenty of cheap food to be found all around Ueno station, including a large number of food stalls near the shrine on Shinobazu Lake.

In cherry blossom season, the local favorite is grilled rice dumplings known as dango (団子), slathered with either a sweet and salty soy-based sauce or chunky red bean paste. As the terse Japanese proverb says, Hana yori dango, or "Dumplings are better than blossoms".

Budget
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- Yayoiken (やよい軒), Higashi-Ueno 3-37-9 (on Asakusa-dori, 2 min from JR Ueno), [4]. 7AM-11PM. Cheap and cheerful grills served on a hot teppan iron plate, with all the rice you can eat. Plastic food models plus a coupon machine with pictures make ordering easy. Morning sets from ¥350, full meals from ¥580.

Mid-range
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- Konaya Curry Udon, 7-1-1, Atre 2F, [5]. 11AM-10:30PM. Excellent bowl of curry udon from this small chain of restaurants with a few locations in Tokyo. A bowl of curry udon with tempura and a drink is about ¥1500.

Splurge
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- Ueno Seiyōken (上野精養軒), in the Ueno Park grounds, [6]. Opened in 1877, this was one of the first Western restaurants in Japan, serving French cuisine befitting its stature. Lunch from ¥2400, dinner ¥10000+.

Drink
toc

Ueno is low on clubs, but heavy on traditional bars and seedier businesses.

"Without sake, what is the meaning of cherry blossoms?", proclaims a famous haiku poem. The profound truths contained within are experimentally tested every spring, when more or less all of Ueno Park disappears under a sea of blue tarps, picnicking secretaries and sozzled salarymen.

- Tōrindō (桃林堂), Ueno-sakuragi 1-5-7, [7]. 9AM-5PM. A little off the beaten track but just a short walk from the Tokyo National Museum, this traditional shop serves tea ceremony tea (¥450) without the ritualized fuss and delectable Japanese desserts (¥150+) to go with them.

- Tasuichi (plus one). Down the street from the 0101 department store is an extremely small but very friendly stand-up bar. They serve good food, have cheap drinks, speak some English, and are very friendly to foreigners. A great place to go if you are traveling by yourself, know some very basic Japanese and want to make friends with a local or two, but this is not a club. The surrounding area is filled with similar places.

- The Warrior Celt, 3rd floor 6-9-22. Known locally as the hangout for a few good beers in a typical Irish pub atmosphere. Expat crowd as well as Japanese drinkers. Say you found the place off Wikitravel for a little something special. ¥600-1000.

Sleep
toc

Only hotels within walking distance of Ueno Station are listed here. See Taito for a listing of hotels elsewhere in the district.

- Oak Hotel, Higashi-Ueno 6-1-2 (Two blocks north from JR Ueno stn Asakusa exit, tucked into an alley on the left), [8]. Small, but clean and efficient rooms, free internet computers, a collection of travel books, coin laundry, and an English-speaking staff make it a useful stop for foreign visitors. Guests with their own LAN-enabled laptops/netbooks can get free internet access in the privacy of their own rooms; just borrow a connection kit from the front desk. Located near Inarichō Station (Tokyo Metro Ginza Line) and the Kappabashi-Dori kitchenware street. Ueno Station is a long but manageable walk away. Offers a discount for ISIC cardholders. Singles for students ¥5880, twin rooms available.

- Tsukuba Hotel Ueno (ツクバホテル), Moto-Asakusa 2-7-8 (1 min from Metro Ginza Inaricho stn, 8 min from JR Ueno), +81 03 3834-2556, [9]. Old but functional business hotel offering small but cheap rooms. Free wireless, free PCs, coin laundry, used to dealing with foreigners. Western-style singles ¥5250, Japanese-style tatami rooms with shared bath from ¥4000.

- Sutton Place Hotel Ueno (サットンプレイスホテル), 7-8-23, Ueno, Taito-ku (from JR Ueno station, Iriya exit, cross the street to Iwakura High School; continue to the end of that block; turn left at the next traffic light; hotel is on the left. 2 min walk total.), +81 03 3842-2411 (fax: +81 03 3842-2414), [10]. checkin: 3PM; checkout: noon. Mid-range hotel, in the Renaissance Group. Rooms have en-suite toilet. Staff speaks English. Breakfast included. Free internet access in the lobby. The hotel is located in a quiet street in Ueno, 2 minutes walking from JR Ueno Station and 5 minutes walking from subway Ueno Station. From Keisei Ueno, terminating station of the Skyliner from Narita Airport, the walk is about 10 minutes. ¥7000.

- Kinuya Hotel, 2-14-28 Ueno, Taito-ku (3 minutes walk from JR Ueno Shinobazu exit), [11]. A great hotel for backpackers, staff can speak English. Two PCs with internet access are available at the lobby. Singles for ¥7400.

- Villa Fontaine Ueno, 2-4-4 Kojima, Taito-ku, Tokyo, +81 03 5339-1200, [12]. Mid-range hotel. Rooms have en-suite toilet. Staff speaks English. Simple breakfast included. Free internet (through LAN cable) in rooms. Rooms are quiet and pleasant. 5 minutes walk from Shin-Okachimachi Station. ¥7900.

Contact
toc

- Tokyo Tourist Information Center, in the Keisei train station outside the ticket gates, [13]. Daily 9:30AM-6:30PM. A good source of tourist information, this office is geared for foreign visitors, so all materials are in languages other than Japanese and all staff speak English.

Get out
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- Akihabara — the mecca of geek culture is two stops away by JR Yamanote Line

- Asakusa — Tokyo's top temples are two stops away by Metro Ginza Line

- Bunkyo — Tokyo University and a slice of Old Tokyo are within strolling distance of Ueno Park

District Koto Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
toc

Eastern Tokyo is largely residential and industrial, with few tourist attractions of note. Most sights are concentrated in Sumida's Ryogoku neighborhood.

Get in
toc

See
toc

- Kiyosumi Garden (清澄庭園), 3-3-9 Kiyosumi, Kōtō-ku (4 min from Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station on the Toei Ōedo and Hanzōmon lines. From Exit A3, cross the main street. Turn left to the next small street, then right along the wall to the entrance), +81 03-3641-5892, [1]. 9AM-5PM. Not the most famous of Tokyo's gardens, but is quite lovely and uncrowded. Originally created in the Edo period, it took its present form during the Meiji Era, under the ownership of the founder of Mitsubishi. ¥150.

- Fukagawa Edo Museum (深川江戸資料館), 1-3-28 Shirakawa, Kōtō-ku (10 min from Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station on the Toei Ōedo and Hanzōmon lines. From Exit A3, turn left. At the next traffic light, turn left again. The museum is ahead on the left, past the entrance to a temple), +81 03-3630-8625 (fax: +81 03-3820-4379), [2]. Fresh from a recent renovation, this intimate museum features a wonderfully recreated Tempo-period (1830-1843) neighbourhood - complete with homes, shops, narrow alleyways, and even the local rubbish dump. Wander about, peering in windows and entering buildings furnished with household goods and Edo-period bric-a-brac. Light and sound effects create the illusion of a whole day passing from day to night in the space of a few minutes. Pair it up with a visit to the huge Edo-Tokyo Museum in nearby Sumida ward, just a couple of stops away on the Toei Ōedo subway line. ¥300 adult.

- Shibamata (柴又), in Katsushika-ku, features Taishakuten Temple (帝釈天) with its cozy shopping street that rivals Asakusa in liveliness while being much more authentic, lacking the overseas-tourist kitsch. The district's biggest claim to fame is being the setting for "Otoko wa tsurai yo", Japan's longest-running movie series, and the hero of the series, Tora-san, can been seen every block of the way from the life-size statue in front of the train station to caricatures and movie posters in every shop. Down by the river past the temple there is a museum dedicated to the movie series, as well as a hand-rowed boat that carries passengers between the shores (Y100 one way fare), the last of its kind in Tokyo.

Do
toc

Buy
toc

Eat
toc

"Monja-yaki" (もんじゃ焼き) is a Kanto-area specialty, similar to okonomiyaki. Once people used to make words with ingredients on the hot plate for fun before eating because "Monja-yaki" means "word ware". Monja-yaki's basic batter is made of water, flour and soy sauce. Ingredients can include cabbage, grated yam, crushed tempura, cuttlefish, shrimp, slices of meat, and so on. Although Tsukishima is Tokyo's best-known neighborhood for monjayaki, it's popular here as well.

- Menkouboutenshou, 5-3-1 Horikiri, Katsushika-ku (1 minute from Horikiri-shoubuen Station), +81 03-5680-3328. 11:45AM-2AM.

Drink
toc

- Ageha, 2-2-10 Shin-kiba, Kōtō-ku (5 min from Shin-Kiba stn on Rinkai/Metro Yurakucho), [3]. Tokyo's largest club featuring world-class DJs and a distinctive crowd of Japanese youth. Due to its remote location, Ageha offers a free shuttle from Shibuya which takes about 40 minutes.

Sleep
toc

Contact
toc

Get out
toc

District Arakawa Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
toc

Eastern Tokyo is largely residential and industrial, with few tourist attractions of note. Most sights are concentrated in Sumida's Ryogoku neighborhood.

Get in
toc

See
toc

- Kiyosumi Garden (清澄庭園), 3-3-9 Kiyosumi, Kōtō-ku (4 min from Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station on the Toei Ōedo and Hanzōmon lines. From Exit A3, cross the main street. Turn left to the next small street, then right along the wall to the entrance), +81 03-3641-5892, [1]. 9AM-5PM. Not the most famous of Tokyo's gardens, but is quite lovely and uncrowded. Originally created in the Edo period, it took its present form during the Meiji Era, under the ownership of the founder of Mitsubishi. ¥150.

- Fukagawa Edo Museum (深川江戸資料館), 1-3-28 Shirakawa, Kōtō-ku (10 min from Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station on the Toei Ōedo and Hanzōmon lines. From Exit A3, turn left. At the next traffic light, turn left again. The museum is ahead on the left, past the entrance to a temple), +81 03-3630-8625 (fax: +81 03-3820-4379), [2]. Fresh from a recent renovation, this intimate museum features a wonderfully recreated Tempo-period (1830-1843) neighbourhood - complete with homes, shops, narrow alleyways, and even the local rubbish dump. Wander about, peering in windows and entering buildings furnished with household goods and Edo-period bric-a-brac. Light and sound effects create the illusion of a whole day passing from day to night in the space of a few minutes. Pair it up with a visit to the huge Edo-Tokyo Museum in nearby Sumida ward, just a couple of stops away on the Toei Ōedo subway line. ¥300 adult.

- Shibamata (柴又), in Katsushika-ku, features Taishakuten Temple (帝釈天) with its cozy shopping street that rivals Asakusa in liveliness while being much more authentic, lacking the overseas-tourist kitsch. The district's biggest claim to fame is being the setting for "Otoko wa tsurai yo", Japan's longest-running movie series, and the hero of the series, Tora-san, can been seen every block of the way from the life-size statue in front of the train station to caricatures and movie posters in every shop. Down by the river past the temple there is a museum dedicated to the movie series, as well as a hand-rowed boat that carries passengers between the shores (Y100 one way fare), the last of its kind in Tokyo.

Do
toc

Buy
toc

Eat
toc

"Monja-yaki" (もんじゃ焼き) is a Kanto-area specialty, similar to okonomiyaki. Once people used to make words with ingredients on the hot plate for fun before eating because "Monja-yaki" means "word ware". Monja-yaki's basic batter is made of water, flour and soy sauce. Ingredients can include cabbage, grated yam, crushed tempura, cuttlefish, shrimp, slices of meat, and so on. Although Tsukishima is Tokyo's best-known neighborhood for monjayaki, it's popular here as well.

- Menkouboutenshou, 5-3-1 Horikiri, Katsushika-ku (1 minute from Horikiri-shoubuen Station), +81 03-5680-3328. 11:45AM-2AM.

Drink
toc

- Ageha, 2-2-10 Shin-kiba, Kōtō-ku (5 min from Shin-Kiba stn on Rinkai/Metro Yurakucho), [3]. Tokyo's largest club featuring world-class DJs and a distinctive crowd of Japanese youth. Due to its remote location, Ageha offers a free shuttle from Shibuya which takes about 40 minutes.

Sleep
toc

Contact
toc

Get out
toc

District Adachi Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
toc

Eastern Tokyo is largely residential and industrial, with few tourist attractions of note. Most sights are concentrated in Sumida's Ryogoku neighborhood.

Get in
toc

See
toc

- Kiyosumi Garden (清澄庭園), 3-3-9 Kiyosumi, Kōtō-ku (4 min from Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station on the Toei Ōedo and Hanzōmon lines. From Exit A3, cross the main street. Turn left to the next small street, then right along the wall to the entrance), +81 03-3641-5892, [1]. 9AM-5PM. Not the most famous of Tokyo's gardens, but is quite lovely and uncrowded. Originally created in the Edo period, it took its present form during the Meiji Era, under the ownership of the founder of Mitsubishi. ¥150.

- Fukagawa Edo Museum (深川江戸資料館), 1-3-28 Shirakawa, Kōtō-ku (10 min from Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station on the Toei Ōedo and Hanzōmon lines. From Exit A3, turn left. At the next traffic light, turn left again. The museum is ahead on the left, past the entrance to a temple), +81 03-3630-8625 (fax: +81 03-3820-4379), [2]. Fresh from a recent renovation, this intimate museum features a wonderfully recreated Tempo-period (1830-1843) neighbourhood - complete with homes, shops, narrow alleyways, and even the local rubbish dump. Wander about, peering in windows and entering buildings furnished with household goods and Edo-period bric-a-brac. Light and sound effects create the illusion of a whole day passing from day to night in the space of a few minutes. Pair it up with a visit to the huge Edo-Tokyo Museum in nearby Sumida ward, just a couple of stops away on the Toei Ōedo subway line. ¥300 adult.

- Shibamata (柴又), in Katsushika-ku, features Taishakuten Temple (帝釈天) with its cozy shopping street that rivals Asakusa in liveliness while being much more authentic, lacking the overseas-tourist kitsch. The district's biggest claim to fame is being the setting for "Otoko wa tsurai yo", Japan's longest-running movie series, and the hero of the series, Tora-san, can been seen every block of the way from the life-size statue in front of the train station to caricatures and movie posters in every shop. Down by the river past the temple there is a museum dedicated to the movie series, as well as a hand-rowed boat that carries passengers between the shores (Y100 one way fare), the last of its kind in Tokyo.

Do
toc

Buy
toc

Eat
toc

"Monja-yaki" (もんじゃ焼き) is a Kanto-area specialty, similar to okonomiyaki. Once people used to make words with ingredients on the hot plate for fun before eating because "Monja-yaki" means "word ware". Monja-yaki's basic batter is made of water, flour and soy sauce. Ingredients can include cabbage, grated yam, crushed tempura, cuttlefish, shrimp, slices of meat, and so on. Although Tsukishima is Tokyo's best-known neighborhood for monjayaki, it's popular here as well.

- Menkouboutenshou, 5-3-1 Horikiri, Katsushika-ku (1 minute from Horikiri-shoubuen Station), +81 03-5680-3328. 11:45AM-2AM.

Drink
toc

- Ageha, 2-2-10 Shin-kiba, Kōtō-ku (5 min from Shin-Kiba stn on Rinkai/Metro Yurakucho), [3]. Tokyo's largest club featuring world-class DJs and a distinctive crowd of Japanese youth. Due to its remote location, Ageha offers a free shuttle from Shibuya which takes about 40 minutes.

Sleep
toc

Contact
toc

Get out
toc

District Katsushika Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
toc

Eastern Tokyo is largely residential and industrial, with few tourist attractions of note. Most sights are concentrated in Sumida's Ryogoku neighborhood.

Get in
toc

See
toc

- Kiyosumi Garden (清澄庭園), 3-3-9 Kiyosumi, Kōtō-ku (4 min from Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station on the Toei Ōedo and Hanzōmon lines. From Exit A3, cross the main street. Turn left to the next small street, then right along the wall to the entrance), +81 03-3641-5892, [1]. 9AM-5PM. Not the most famous of Tokyo's gardens, but is quite lovely and uncrowded. Originally created in the Edo period, it took its present form during the Meiji Era, under the ownership of the founder of Mitsubishi. ¥150.

- Fukagawa Edo Museum (深川江戸資料館), 1-3-28 Shirakawa, Kōtō-ku (10 min from Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station on the Toei Ōedo and Hanzōmon lines. From Exit A3, turn left. At the next traffic light, turn left again. The museum is ahead on the left, past the entrance to a temple), +81 03-3630-8625 (fax: +81 03-3820-4379), [2]. Fresh from a recent renovation, this intimate museum features a wonderfully recreated Tempo-period (1830-1843) neighbourhood - complete with homes, shops, narrow alleyways, and even the local rubbish dump. Wander about, peering in windows and entering buildings furnished with household goods and Edo-period bric-a-brac. Light and sound effects create the illusion of a whole day passing from day to night in the space of a few minutes. Pair it up with a visit to the huge Edo-Tokyo Museum in nearby Sumida ward, just a couple of stops away on the Toei Ōedo subway line. ¥300 adult.

- Shibamata (柴又), in Katsushika-ku, features Taishakuten Temple (帝釈天) with its cozy shopping street that rivals Asakusa in liveliness while being much more authentic, lacking the overseas-tourist kitsch. The district's biggest claim to fame is being the setting for "Otoko wa tsurai yo", Japan's longest-running movie series, and the hero of the series, Tora-san, can been seen every block of the way from the life-size statue in front of the train station to caricatures and movie posters in every shop. Down by the river past the temple there is a museum dedicated to the movie series, as well as a hand-rowed boat that carries passengers between the shores (Y100 one way fare), the last of its kind in Tokyo.

Do
toc

Buy
toc

Eat
toc

"Monja-yaki" (もんじゃ焼き) is a Kanto-area specialty, similar to okonomiyaki. Once people used to make words with ingredients on the hot plate for fun before eating because "Monja-yaki" means "word ware". Monja-yaki's basic batter is made of water, flour and soy sauce. Ingredients can include cabbage, grated yam, crushed tempura, cuttlefish, shrimp, slices of meat, and so on. Although Tsukishima is Tokyo's best-known neighborhood for monjayaki, it's popular here as well.

- Menkouboutenshou, 5-3-1 Horikiri, Katsushika-ku (1 minute from Horikiri-shoubuen Station), +81 03-5680-3328. 11:45AM-2AM.

Drink
toc

- Ageha, 2-2-10 Shin-kiba, Kōtō-ku (5 min from Shin-Kiba stn on Rinkai/Metro Yurakucho), [3]. Tokyo's largest club featuring world-class DJs and a distinctive crowd of Japanese youth. Due to its remote location, Ageha offers a free shuttle from Shibuya which takes about 40 minutes.

Sleep
toc

Contact
toc

Get out
toc

District Kita Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

Get in
toc

Nerima is accessible on the Toei Oedo subway line from many points in the city, and on the Seibu Ikebukuro and Seibu Shinjuku (going to stations in the Southern part of Nerima-ku) Railway lines from Ikebukuro and Seibu Shinjuku stations respectively. The Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line branches in two at Kotake-Mukaihara station with some trains going on to Wako-shi in Saitama Prefecture then continuing along the Tobu Tojo line and others continuing to Nerima then running through to the Seibu Ikebukuro Line.

Itabashi is best covered by the Toei Mita line and a small portion of the Tobu Tojo line. Itabashi Station on the JR Saikyo line is at the far southeastern corner of the ward, barely in Itabashi at all.

JR East serves Kita. The Keihin Tohoku JR Line stops at Tabata, Kami Nakazato, Oiji, Higashi-Jujo, and Akabane stations, while the Saikyo JR Line stops at Itabashi, Jujo, Akabane, Kita Akabane, and Ukima Funado stations.

See
toc

- Akasuimon (赤水門), 5-41 Shimo, Kita-ku (Namboku subway line to Akabane-Iwabuchi; wander north through small streets), [1]. The Red Floodgate may be of little interest to the casual tourist, but involves a pleasant walk in a riverside park. Tokyo is low-lying, and depends on floodgates and levees to avoid inundation. The historic red flood gate is no longer used, replaced by the larger (but less attractive) blue gates to the east.

- Hakusan shrine, 03-3948-1096. shrine is the place to worship Japanese God.There is a big portable shrine, a big box and Japanese believe that Japanese God ride to it while Japanese festival is holding. Every fall There is a festival where Japanese carry the big portable shrine through the city, by walking .It a very ancient tradition.You can see this festival.And Hakusan shrine famous for zelkova tree.there are two zelkova trees.this trees are 800 years old.so It is nutural monument in Japan.

- Market of the cock(酉の市）, (Nerima). It is the Japanese traditional festival that have continued from Edo priod.And It is held in November on the day of the cock by Otori shrine In Nerima.There are many kinds of booths.For example,chinese foods, griled chiken ,apricot candy , big cotton candy and so on. You can eat those foods and enjoy this traditional atmosphere.

- United cinema Toshimaen(ユナイテッドシネマ豊島園）, 4-15-20 Nerima nerima-ku, 03-5912-9400. It takes 2min from toshimaen station. This chinema has 9 screan and special seats that have more beautiful sound than normal seats.It can accomdate about 2372 audience. there are some shops,you can buy foods,forexample, popcorn and ice cream, drinks and goods of movie. When you watch the movie, it cost 1800yen in adults, 1500yen in university and high school students, 1000yen in junior and senior,900yen in infant( from 3 years old).

Do
toc

- Toshimaen (としまえん), 3-25-1 Koyama, Nerima-ku (at Toshimaen Station on the Oedo Line; also served by a tiny spur of the Seibu Ikebukuro Line: board a train bound for Toshimaen, or change trains at Nerima), +81 03-3990-8800 (Japanese only), [2]. Hours vary, see web site; most often 10AM-4PM or 6PM, closed most Tu and W. An amusement park aimed at children with a merry-go-round, small roller coasters, and other carnival-type rides, as well as seven swimming pools with water slides. ¥1000, ¥500 children, plus ¥400 per ride; a free pass for all the rides is ¥3800 for adults and ¥2800 for children. Admission to the water park is also ¥3,800 for adults and ¥2800 for children.

- Niwa-no-yu (庭の湯), 3-25-1 Kouyama, Nerima-ku, +81 03-3990-4126 (Japanese only), [3]. 10AM–11PM. A large, upscale sento adjacent to Toshimaen which features indoor and outdoor baths, Roman steam rooms, Finnish saunas, a large indoor pool (bring your bathing suit), and an upstairs area with food, drinks, massages, and relaxation chairs (food, drinks, and massages cost extra). Children not permitted. ¥2250 before 9PM, ¥1260 after.

- Hikarigaoka Park (光が公園), 4-1 Hikarigaoka, Nerima-ku (north of Hikarigaoka Station, Oedo Line). One of the larger parks in Tokyo. It was originally left over land from a U.S. military base. The park has extensive open, grassy areas for picnics, frisbee and the like. There is also a large public pool, and a gym, a bird-watching center, a small water play area, tennis courts, archery, a baseball diamond and other facilities. A number of festivals and flea markets and special events are often held in the park (or near it) year round as well.

- Karaoke and live stage(カラオケアンドライブステージ）, 4-15-15Nerima Nerima-ku, 3557-5771. It is the Karaoke box in toshimaen.It takes 1 min from Toshiman station by walking.When you enter the room,you can choose your favorite songs and shing it.If you look for song and put it's number to karaoke machine ,music without voice is being played so you can sing with music.And you can eat many kind of foods and drink. It is morden culture in Japan.You can enjoy it regardress of season.

Buy
toc

- Jujo-Ginza, Kami-jujo 2-chome, Kita-ku (Jujo Station on the Saikyo Line, across from the west entrance), [4]. This covered shopping street is as good a way as any to see how every-day people shop and what they buy.

Eat
toc

The Japanede radish, It is called Nerima radish.(練馬大根）It is long and the length is about 1 meter. It's taste is spicy so when you eat it,you should eat it for spice.You can buy it at supermarket in Nerima city.

Drink
toc

- Cartagena, 4F, 7-1-1 Shakujii-cho, Nerima-ku (beside the first railroad crossing west of Shakujii-koen station), +81 03-5372-0103. Su-Th 7PM-midnight, F Sa all night. A cozy and friendly spot where you can dance and drink. It is probably the first Latin bar in Nerima. The owner is a lady who once lived in Colombia; she speaks English and Spanish. There is a salsa event on weekends. Beer, rum and others start at ¥500.

Sleep
toc

Few options. Consider the more plentiful choices near Ikebukuro, or in Bunkyo for closer access to Kita.

Contact
toc

District Edogawa Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

• Get out

Understand
toc

Eastern Tokyo is largely residential and industrial, with few tourist attractions of note. Most sights are concentrated in Sumida's Ryogoku neighborhood.

Get in
toc

See
toc

- Kiyosumi Garden (清澄庭園), 3-3-9 Kiyosumi, Kōtō-ku (4 min from Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station on the Toei Ōedo and Hanzōmon lines. From Exit A3, cross the main street. Turn left to the next small street, then right along the wall to the entrance), +81 03-3641-5892, [1]. 9AM-5PM. Not the most famous of Tokyo's gardens, but is quite lovely and uncrowded. Originally created in the Edo period, it took its present form during the Meiji Era, under the ownership of the founder of Mitsubishi. ¥150.

- Fukagawa Edo Museum (深川江戸資料館), 1-3-28 Shirakawa, Kōtō-ku (10 min from Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station on the Toei Ōedo and Hanzōmon lines. From Exit A3, turn left. At the next traffic light, turn left again. The museum is ahead on the left, past the entrance to a temple), +81 03-3630-8625 (fax: +81 03-3820-4379), [2]. Fresh from a recent renovation, this intimate museum features a wonderfully recreated Tempo-period (1830-1843) neighbourhood - complete with homes, shops, narrow alleyways, and even the local rubbish dump. Wander about, peering in windows and entering buildings furnished with household goods and Edo-period bric-a-brac. Light and sound effects create the illusion of a whole day passing from day to night in the space of a few minutes. Pair it up with a visit to the huge Edo-Tokyo Museum in nearby Sumida ward, just a couple of stops away on the Toei Ōedo subway line. ¥300 adult.

- Shibamata (柴又), in Katsushika-ku, features Taishakuten Temple (帝釈天) with its cozy shopping street that rivals Asakusa in liveliness while being much more authentic, lacking the overseas-tourist kitsch. The district's biggest claim to fame is being the setting for "Otoko wa tsurai yo", Japan's longest-running movie series, and the hero of the series, Tora-san, can been seen every block of the way from the life-size statue in front of the train station to caricatures and movie posters in every shop. Down by the river past the temple there is a museum dedicated to the movie series, as well as a hand-rowed boat that carries passengers between the shores (Y100 one way fare), the last of its kind in Tokyo.

Do
toc

Buy
toc

Eat
toc

"Monja-yaki" (もんじゃ焼き) is a Kanto-area specialty, similar to okonomiyaki. Once people used to make words with ingredients on the hot plate for fun before eating because "Monja-yaki" means "word ware". Monja-yaki's basic batter is made of water, flour and soy sauce. Ingredients can include cabbage, grated yam, crushed tempura, cuttlefish, shrimp, slices of meat, and so on. Although Tsukishima is Tokyo's best-known neighborhood for monjayaki, it's popular here as well.

- Menkouboutenshou, 5-3-1 Horikiri, Katsushika-ku (1 minute from Horikiri-shoubuen Station), +81 03-5680-3328. 11:45AM-2AM.

Drink
toc

- Ageha, 2-2-10 Shin-kiba, Kōtō-ku (5 min from Shin-Kiba stn on Rinkai/Metro Yurakucho), [3]. Tokyo's largest club featuring world-class DJs and a distinctive crowd of Japanese youth. Due to its remote location, Ageha offers a free shuttle from Shibuya which takes about 40 minutes.

Sleep
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Contact
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Get out
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District Itabashi Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

Get in
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Nerima is accessible on the Toei Oedo subway line from many points in the city, and on the Seibu Ikebukuro and Seibu Shinjuku (going to stations in the Southern part of Nerima-ku) Railway lines from Ikebukuro and Seibu Shinjuku stations respectively. The Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line branches in two at Kotake-Mukaihara station with some trains going on to Wako-shi in Saitama Prefecture then continuing along the Tobu Tojo line and others continuing to Nerima then running through to the Seibu Ikebukuro Line.

Itabashi is best covered by the Toei Mita line and a small portion of the Tobu Tojo line. Itabashi Station on the JR Saikyo line is at the far southeastern corner of the ward, barely in Itabashi at all.

JR East serves Kita. The Keihin Tohoku JR Line stops at Tabata, Kami Nakazato, Oiji, Higashi-Jujo, and Akabane stations, while the Saikyo JR Line stops at Itabashi, Jujo, Akabane, Kita Akabane, and Ukima Funado stations.

See
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- Akasuimon (赤水門), 5-41 Shimo, Kita-ku (Namboku subway line to Akabane-Iwabuchi; wander north through small streets), [1]. The Red Floodgate may be of little interest to the casual tourist, but involves a pleasant walk in a riverside park. Tokyo is low-lying, and depends on floodgates and levees to avoid inundation. The historic red flood gate is no longer used, replaced by the larger (but less attractive) blue gates to the east.

- Hakusan shrine, 03-3948-1096. shrine is the place to worship Japanese God.There is a big portable shrine, a big box and Japanese believe that Japanese God ride to it while Japanese festival is holding. Every fall There is a festival where Japanese carry the big portable shrine through the city, by walking .It a very ancient tradition.You can see this festival.And Hakusan shrine famous for zelkova tree.there are two zelkova trees.this trees are 800 years old.so It is nutural monument in Japan.

- Market of the cock(酉の市）, (Nerima). It is the Japanese traditional festival that have continued from Edo priod.And It is held in November on the day of the cock by Otori shrine In Nerima.There are many kinds of booths.For example,chinese foods, griled chiken ,apricot candy , big cotton candy and so on. You can eat those foods and enjoy this traditional atmosphere.

- United cinema Toshimaen(ユナイテッドシネマ豊島園）, 4-15-20 Nerima nerima-ku, 03-5912-9400. It takes 2min from toshimaen station. This chinema has 9 screan and special seats that have more beautiful sound than normal seats.It can accomdate about 2372 audience. there are some shops,you can buy foods,forexample, popcorn and ice cream, drinks and goods of movie. When you watch the movie, it cost 1800yen in adults, 1500yen in university and high school students, 1000yen in junior and senior,900yen in infant( from 3 years old).

Do
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- Toshimaen (としまえん), 3-25-1 Koyama, Nerima-ku (at Toshimaen Station on the Oedo Line; also served by a tiny spur of the Seibu Ikebukuro Line: board a train bound for Toshimaen, or change trains at Nerima), +81 03-3990-8800 (Japanese only), [2]. Hours vary, see web site; most often 10AM-4PM or 6PM, closed most Tu and W. An amusement park aimed at children with a merry-go-round, small roller coasters, and other carnival-type rides, as well as seven swimming pools with water slides. ¥1000, ¥500 children, plus ¥400 per ride; a free pass for all the rides is ¥3800 for adults and ¥2800 for children. Admission to the water park is also ¥3,800 for adults and ¥2800 for children.

- Niwa-no-yu (庭の湯), 3-25-1 Kouyama, Nerima-ku, +81 03-3990-4126 (Japanese only), [3]. 10AM–11PM. A large, upscale sento adjacent to Toshimaen which features indoor and outdoor baths, Roman steam rooms, Finnish saunas, a large indoor pool (bring your bathing suit), and an upstairs area with food, drinks, massages, and relaxation chairs (food, drinks, and massages cost extra). Children not permitted. ¥2250 before 9PM, ¥1260 after.

- Hikarigaoka Park (光が公園), 4-1 Hikarigaoka, Nerima-ku (north of Hikarigaoka Station, Oedo Line). One of the larger parks in Tokyo. It was originally left over land from a U.S. military base. The park has extensive open, grassy areas for picnics, frisbee and the like. There is also a large public pool, and a gym, a bird-watching center, a small water play area, tennis courts, archery, a baseball diamond and other facilities. A number of festivals and flea markets and special events are often held in the park (or near it) year round as well.

- Karaoke and live stage(カラオケアンドライブステージ）, 4-15-15Nerima Nerima-ku, 3557-5771. It is the Karaoke box in toshimaen.It takes 1 min from Toshiman station by walking.When you enter the room,you can choose your favorite songs and shing it.If you look for song and put it's number to karaoke machine ,music without voice is being played so you can sing with music.And you can eat many kind of foods and drink. It is morden culture in Japan.You can enjoy it regardress of season.

Buy
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- Jujo-Ginza, Kami-jujo 2-chome, Kita-ku (Jujo Station on the Saikyo Line, across from the west entrance), [4]. This covered shopping street is as good a way as any to see how every-day people shop and what they buy.

Eat
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The Japanede radish, It is called Nerima radish.(練馬大根）It is long and the length is about 1 meter. It's taste is spicy so when you eat it,you should eat it for spice.You can buy it at supermarket in Nerima city.

Drink
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- Cartagena, 4F, 7-1-1 Shakujii-cho, Nerima-ku (beside the first railroad crossing west of Shakujii-koen station), +81 03-5372-0103. Su-Th 7PM-midnight, F Sa all night. A cozy and friendly spot where you can dance and drink. It is probably the first Latin bar in Nerima. The owner is a lady who once lived in Colombia; she speaks English and Spanish. There is a salsa event on weekends. Beer, rum and others start at ¥500.

Sleep
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Few options. Consider the more plentiful choices near Ikebukuro, or in Bunkyo for closer access to Kita.

Contact
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District Nakano Table of Contents

Get In

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

Get In
toc

Nakano is a stop on the JR Chuo and Sobu lines. It is also a terminal stop for trains on the Tozai subway line (stop T01).

JR Chuo Line Rapid trains operate on a frequent schedule from Shinjuku Station (5 minutes, ¥150) and Tokyo Station (20 minutes ¥210).

See
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Do
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Buy
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- Broadway Arcade, 5-52-15 Nakano (enter the covered arcade on the north side of JR Nakano station, and continue for about five minutes). Many of the shops are not open until later in the day (late morning or early afternoon), especially on weekends.. Renowned throughout Tokyo and beyond for its jam-packed stores catering to the "otaku" culture of comics, anime, collectible toys, and the like. If you're looking for two-meter-high Godzilla figure, this is where you'll find it. There are also some used and specialty audio and video equipment stores. Broadway is on the second floor; the first floor is just a normal suburban shopping mall, so make sure you check upstairs instead of walking around the ground floor and then leaving.

Eat
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- Rera-Chise (レラ・チセ), Arai 1-37-12 (12 min. north from JR Nakano, continuing past Broadway), +81 03-3387-2252, [1]. Dinner only, 5PM-11PM; closed M. A Japanese rarity even in Tokyo, this restaurant serves cuisine of the Ainu, the indigenous inhabitants of Hokkaido. Try the crushed salmon snouts and venison steaks.

- Mitsuboshi Curry (ミツボシカレー), Arai 2-1-1 (Walk through Broadway and go to your left. Cross the street to the right side and you should see the name written in katakana). Very friendly staff, speaks a little English. English menu available. ¥680–¥1380.

Drink
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Sleep
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Contact
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District Nerima Table of Contents

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

Get in
toc

Nerima is accessible on the Toei Oedo subway line from many points in the city, and on the Seibu Ikebukuro and Seibu Shinjuku (going to stations in the Southern part of Nerima-ku) Railway lines from Ikebukuro and Seibu Shinjuku stations respectively. The Tokyo Metro Yurakucho Line branches in two at Kotake-Mukaihara station with some trains going on to Wako-shi in Saitama Prefecture then continuing along the Tobu Tojo line and others continuing to Nerima then running through to the Seibu Ikebukuro Line.

Itabashi is best covered by the Toei Mita line and a small portion of the Tobu Tojo line. Itabashi Station on the JR Saikyo line is at the far southeastern corner of the ward, barely in Itabashi at all.

JR East serves Kita. The Keihin Tohoku JR Line stops at Tabata, Kami Nakazato, Oiji, Higashi-Jujo, and Akabane stations, while the Saikyo JR Line stops at Itabashi, Jujo, Akabane, Kita Akabane, and Ukima Funado stations.

See
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- Akasuimon (赤水門), 5-41 Shimo, Kita-ku (Namboku subway line to Akabane-Iwabuchi; wander north through small streets), [1]. The Red Floodgate may be of little interest to the casual tourist, but involves a pleasant walk in a riverside park. Tokyo is low-lying, and depends on floodgates and levees to avoid inundation. The historic red flood gate is no longer used, replaced by the larger (but less attractive) blue gates to the east.

- Hakusan shrine, 03-3948-1096. shrine is the place to worship Japanese God.There is a big portable shrine, a big box and Japanese believe that Japanese God ride to it while Japanese festival is holding. Every fall There is a festival where Japanese carry the big portable shrine through the city, by walking .It a very ancient tradition.You can see this festival.And Hakusan shrine famous for zelkova tree.there are two zelkova trees.this trees are 800 years old.so It is nutural monument in Japan.

- Market of the cock(酉の市）, (Nerima). It is the Japanese traditional festival that have continued from Edo priod.And It is held in November on the day of the cock by Otori shrine In Nerima.There are many kinds of booths.For example,chinese foods, griled chiken ,apricot candy , big cotton candy and so on. You can eat those foods and enjoy this traditional atmosphere.

- United cinema Toshimaen(ユナイテッドシネマ豊島園）, 4-15-20 Nerima nerima-ku, 03-5912-9400. It takes 2min from toshimaen station. This chinema has 9 screan and special seats that have more beautiful sound than normal seats.It can accomdate about 2372 audience. there are some shops,you can buy foods,forexample, popcorn and ice cream, drinks and goods of movie. When you watch the movie, it cost 1800yen in adults, 1500yen in university and high school students, 1000yen in junior and senior,900yen in infant( from 3 years old).

Do
toc

- Toshimaen (としまえん), 3-25-1 Koyama, Nerima-ku (at Toshimaen Station on the Oedo Line; also served by a tiny spur of the Seibu Ikebukuro Line: board a train bound for Toshimaen, or change trains at Nerima), +81 03-3990-8800 (Japanese only), [2]. Hours vary, see web site; most often 10AM-4PM or 6PM, closed most Tu and W. An amusement park aimed at children with a merry-go-round, small roller coasters, and other carnival-type rides, as well as seven swimming pools with water slides. ¥1000, ¥500 children, plus ¥400 per ride; a free pass for all the rides is ¥3800 for adults and ¥2800 for children. Admission to the water park is also ¥3,800 for adults and ¥2800 for children.

- Niwa-no-yu (庭の湯), 3-25-1 Kouyama, Nerima-ku, +81 03-3990-4126 (Japanese only), [3]. 10AM–11PM. A large, upscale sento adjacent to Toshimaen which features indoor and outdoor baths, Roman steam rooms, Finnish saunas, a large indoor pool (bring your bathing suit), and an upstairs area with food, drinks, massages, and relaxation chairs (food, drinks, and massages cost extra). Children not permitted. ¥2250 before 9PM, ¥1260 after.

- Hikarigaoka Park (光が公園), 4-1 Hikarigaoka, Nerima-ku (north of Hikarigaoka Station, Oedo Line). One of the larger parks in Tokyo. It was originally left over land from a U.S. military base. The park has extensive open, grassy areas for picnics, frisbee and the like. There is also a large public pool, and a gym, a bird-watching center, a small water play area, tennis courts, archery, a baseball diamond and other facilities. A number of festivals and flea markets and special events are often held in the park (or near it) year round as well.

- Karaoke and live stage(カラオケアンドライブステージ）, 4-15-15Nerima Nerima-ku, 3557-5771. It is the Karaoke box in toshimaen.It takes 1 min from Toshiman station by walking.When you enter the room,you can choose your favorite songs and shing it.If you look for song and put it's number to karaoke machine ,music without voice is being played so you can sing with music.And you can eat many kind of foods and drink. It is morden culture in Japan.You can enjoy it regardress of season.

Buy
toc

- Jujo-Ginza, Kami-jujo 2-chome, Kita-ku (Jujo Station on the Saikyo Line, across from the west entrance), [4]. This covered shopping street is as good a way as any to see how every-day people shop and what they buy.

Eat
toc

The Japanede radish, It is called Nerima radish.(練馬大根）It is long and the length is about 1 meter. It's taste is spicy so when you eat it,you should eat it for spice.You can buy it at supermarket in Nerima city.

Drink
toc

- Cartagena, 4F, 7-1-1 Shakujii-cho, Nerima-ku (beside the first railroad crossing west of Shakujii-koen station), +81 03-5372-0103. Su-Th 7PM-midnight, F Sa all night. A cozy and friendly spot where you can dance and drink. It is probably the first Latin bar in Nerima. The owner is a lady who once lived in Colombia; she speaks English and Spanish. There is a salsa event on weekends. Beer, rum and others start at ¥500.

Sleep
toc

Few options. Consider the more plentiful choices near Ikebukuro, or in Bunkyo for closer access to Kita.

Contact
toc

District Ota Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

By air

By train

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

Understand
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The name "Ota" is a combination of Omori and Kamata, two former wards which merged to form Ota Ward. Omori and Kamata remain the major urban centers in the ward.

Get in
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By air
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Ota is home to Tokyo International Airport [1], also known as Haneda Airport. Haneda is the busiest airport in Asia.

The Keikyu Airport Line offers a quick connection from Haneda to Keikyu Kamata, with onward connections available to central Tokyo and Yokohama. The train stops running between 12:20am and 5:30am but taxis are still available.

By train
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The two main train stations in Ota are Kamata (JR Keihin/Tohoku, Tokyu Ikegami and Tokyu Tamagawa lines) and Keikyu Kamata (Keikyu Main Line and Keikyu Airport Line).

The eastern, predominantly industrial side of the ward is served by the Tokyo Monorail, which runs from Haneda Airport to Hamamatsucho Station in Minato Ward.

See
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Do
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Buy
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Eat
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Drink
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There are many drinking establishments around JR Kamata station. A popular one for Japanese and foreigners alike is Select Bar on the East side of the station. Call for directions 03-37375016

Sleep
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- Hotel JAL City Haneda Tokyo, [2]. The closest reasonable hotel to Haneda Airport, overlooking the maintenance facilities on the west side of the airfield. Single rooms start around ¥10,000.

- Haneda Excel Hotel Tokyu, inside Terminal 2 at Haneda Airport, [3]. Single rooms start around ¥20,000.

- Ohfu Hotel Kamata, 4-18-24 Kamata Ota-ku (two minutes on foot from Keikyu Kamata Station (West Exit), ten minutes from Haneda airport), 03-5713-3939 (Intl.:+81-03-5713-3939) (info@ohfuhotel-kamata.com), [4]. checkin: 3PM; checkout: 10AM.

Contact
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District Setagaya Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• Get around

By train

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

Understand
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Setagaya has a reputation as an upscale residential district, and features many areas of greenery. The funky shopping and nightlife area of Shimokitazawa (下北沢), which is popular with students and young adults, is also located in Setagaya. The Sangenjaya (三軒茶屋) shopping district is also in Setagaya.

Get in
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Shimokitazawa is on the Odakyu and Keio Inokashira train lines, just a quick hop from Shinjuku and Shibuya respectively. Most of the action is around the South Exit.

Sangenjaya is on the Tokyu Den-en-Toshi train line from Shibuya.

Komazawa-Daigaku is on the Tokyu Den-en-Toshi train line and near Sangenjaya. Komazawa University is a few minutes from the station.

Get around
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By train
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The main train lines serving Setagaya are the Odakyu from Shinjuku to Odawara and the Keio Inokashira, Tokyu Toyoko, and Tokyu Denentoshi, all originating in Shibuya. Since all of these lines run generally westward from hubs on the Yamanote line, it can be somewhat difficult to travel north-south without going in to a hub and back out.

The Tokyu Setagaya line between Sangenjaya and Shimo-takaido is one of only two remaining streetcar lines in Tokyo.

See
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- Carrot Tower (キャロットタワー). This is the tallest building in Setagaya and contains a free observation deck on the 26th floor.

- Gotokuji Temple (豪徳寺), (take Odakya line to Gotokuji station or Setagaya line to Miyanozaka station). The origin of the maneki-neko or beckoning-cat statuettes that bring good fortune to Japanese merchants the world over.

- Kinuta Koen (砧公園）). A public park with a museum of modern art.

- Komazawa Olympic Koen, (about a 15-minute walk from Komazawa-Daigaku station on the Tokyu Den-en-Toshi train line). A large public park, built for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics.

- Setagaya Art Museum, (17-minute walk from Yoga Station on the Den-en Toshi Line). Houses works by artists from the Primitivist School, such as Henri Rousseau.

- Tamagawa Daishi (玉川大師), (get off at Futako-Tamagawa on the Tokyu Den-en-Toshi Line (from Shibuya), and walk 10 minutes along the highway from Takashimaya department store). A Buddhist temple, and a branch of Kawasaki Daishi. It isn't very large and the location is in a nondescript residential area, but its curious attraction is hidden: an underground passageway that snakes its way under the building. There are statues and altars with lighting at various points, but much of the tunnel is in absolute darkness. It symbolizes a passage through the intestines of the Buddha (better not to dwell too much on the symbolism!) while the 88 Buddha statues in one of the chambers also symbolize the famous 88 Temple Pilgrimage in Shikoku.

- Todoroki Keikoku, (take Tokyu Ooimachi line to Todoroki station). A natural canyon nestled in urban surroundings. With a small river and lush vegetation, it offers a pleasant natural environment.

- Setagaya Koen, Ikejiri 1-5-27. A public park with a pool, tennis courts, baseball grounds and so on. There is a mini steam train and a retired full-size steam locomotive for children to play on.

Do
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- Tollywood, Daizawa 5-32-5 2F (Three minutes from Shimokitazawa south exit), 03-3414-0433, [1]. This small theater (46 seats) specializes in independent short films, mostly Japanese. The films aren't dubbed or subtitled of course, but they're so offbeat and often bizarre that you're sure to have a good time anyway.

- Okuraland, Sakura 3-24-1 (5 minutes from Kamimachi station of Tokyu-Setagaya line), 03-3420-0271. Here you can go bowling or practice your golf swing. There are also batting cages.

Buy
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- Shimokitazawa. Has many quirky shops.

- Ex. Sells artistic designed stuff like photo stands, postcards, clocks, accessories and so on.

- Yellow Pop. Carries an eclectic and well-stocked inventory of vinyl including punk, reggae, electronic, and hip-hop.

- Setagaya Boro-Ichi (世田谷ボロ市), (take the Setagaya line to Setagaya or Kamimachi and follow the crowds). A flea market that's held on the 15th and 16th of December and January each year. It's been drawing shoppers from all over Tokyo since it started in 1578. The main attraction is used clothing (such as kimonos) and antiques.

- Dept. A good spot for used men's and women's clothes.

- Haight & Ashbury, kitazawa2-37-2, 03-5453-4690, [2]. Vintage clothes for girls. The interior decorations are very cute.

- Warszawa Records, 2-33-11 Kitazawa, Nozaki Building 2F (http://www.warszawa.jp/shopinfo/index.html), 03-3467-1997, [3]. 13:00 to 22:00. For the best in deep underground/minimal wave/heavy vibes/freak folk goodness, check out Warszawa Records, possibly Tokyo's best underground record store. Stocking Night People, Sacred Bones, Mexican Summer, NNF and much much more.

Eat
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Shimokitazawa is your best option for restaurants and bars.

- Buon Sangue (世田谷区太子堂), 4-20-7 B1F, +81 03-3411-7776‎. Excellent italian traditional restaurant, with several different type of pasta, meat, fish. Wood-oven made pizza is available on the ground floor.

- BOTERO, Komazawa 1-17-17, +81 03-3410-5922. Regular holiday is Tuesday.

- Cheese Cake Factory, Yo-ga 4-28-18, +81 03-5716-5401. 10AM-8PM. Just what it says: it's a cheese cake shop.

- Dining cafe Tsunami, 〒154-0012 Komazawa 1-3-1 (a few minutes from Komazawa station), +81 03-3424-0273. 11:30AM-1PM lunch only. Hawaiian food restaurant near Komazawa Station.

- KURA, at Yutenji, with others at Gotanda, Shibuya, Nakameguro, and Yotsuka-ichi-shi. This is an Italian restaurant - pasta, risotto, pizza, etc. All menu items are very inexpensive.

- La Befana, 5-31-3 Daita (30 second walk from Shimokitazawa West Exit), +81 03-3411-9500. Daily noon-2PM, 5:30PM-10:30PM. Good pizza from wood-fired stone oven, something you will be missing if you are staying for a long time in Japan. The lunch menu is excellent.

- Mother, Daizawa 5-36-14 (3 min from Shimokitazawa South Exit, on the corner just before Gyoza-no-Osho), +81 03-3421-9519. Multi-ethnic food and an interesting selection of imported beers, in a cave-like, Gaudi-inspired setting. Make sure you have time to kill, as the kitchen works at a rather leisurely pace.

- Patisserie NAOKI, Komazawa 1-4-12 1F, +81 03-3422-3167.

- Setagaya, Nozawa 2-1-2 1F, +81 03-3418-6938. 11AM-2:30PM and 6PM-3AM (closed Th). A famous ramen restaurant.

- Sunday Brunch, Kitazawa 2-29-2 2F, +81 03-5453-3366, [4]. The French toast is very tasty.

- Trocadero, Kitazawa 3-30-3 (North exit), +81 03-3476-1991. Trocadero is an authentic French bistro. How authentic? The entire store was brought over from France.

- 31 Ice Cream - Baskin Robbins. Ice cream shop that has many flavors. Discounts on the 31st of each month.

- Mois Cafe, Kitazawa 2-21-26, +81 03-3421-1844, [5]. A seasonal menu, and very tasty.

- Village Vanguard, Asagayakita 2-13-4, [6]. 11:30AM-2AM. Hamburger shop that has many kind of very delicious hamburgers. ¥660.

Drink
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- Kura Kura (蔵くら), 2-20-19 Kitazawa (One minute walk from Shimokitazawa station south exit), +81 03-5433-2323, [7]. Tu-F 5PM-11:30PM, Sa-Su 4PM-11:30PM, closed M. Kura Kura has an excellent selection of beers from Japanese microbreweries served on tap, such as Swan Lake in Niigata and Sanktgallen in Kanagawa. They also have a wide selection of bottled beers, such as offerings from Baird Brewing Company in Shizuoka and Fuji Sakura Kogen in Yamanashi. Some food is also served - try the sausage and beer sampler set for ¥1000.

- Ushi-Tora, 2-9-3 Kitazawa, +81 03-3485-9090, [8]. Daily 5PM-4AM. Seemingly in direct competition to Kura Kura, Ushi-Tora also offers a wide selection of Japanese and U.S. microbrews on tap.

Sleep
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- The B Sangenjaya, 2-17-9 Taishido (Two minute walk from Sangenjaya station North Exit A on Tokyu Denentoshi Line, two minute walk from Sangenjaya station on Tokyu Setagaya Line), +81 03-3795-0505 (theb-sangenjaya@ishinhotels.com, fax: +81 03-3419-0690), [9]. A business style hotel convenient to transport.

Contact
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District Suginami Table of Contents

• Understand

• Get in

• See

• Do

• Buy

• Eat

• Drink

• Sleep

• Contact

Understand
toc

Suginami is mostly a residential area which will provide a great view of real Japanese living in Tokyo. The area's main points of interest are the clothing shops and nightspots of Kōenji (高円寺) and the antique shops of Ogikubo (荻窪) and Nishi-Ogikubo (西荻窪).

Get in
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JR Chuo Line and the Tokyo Metro Marunouchi Line both connect Shinjuku to Ogikubo. Also JR Chuo line, JR Chuo Sobu line and Tokyo Metro Tozai line you can go to Kōenji, Asagaya, Ogikubo and Nishi-Ogikubo. Be careful! During weekends and holidays Rapid service on JR Chuo line does not stop at Kōenji, Asagaya and Nishi-Ogikubo.

Ōme Kaidō (青梅街道) is a main street which connects Shinjuku to the western burbs, running through Kōenji and Ogikubo. Straight down Ōme Kaidō, Kōenji is a ten minute drive, 45 minute walk or 1600 yen taxi from Shinjuku Station.

See
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- Suginami Historical Museum, (Near Wadabori Park). It is small but has some interesting findings from the prehistoric and historic times.

- Namisuke. There is Namisuke in Suginami. Namisuke is Suginami's official charactor. Namisuke's poster sticks on the wall. And there are Namisuke loaves in convenience store. It is Namisuke motifs. It draw Namisuke's face on the loaves.

- Myosyoji Temple. Myosyoji Temple built in 1325. But this temple is not then temple. Because this temple was rebuilt in 1646. There are Myosyoji park and Myosyoji river near Myosyoji temple.They extracted from this temple.

- Myoshoji River. There is Myoshoji river near Myoshoji temple. This river start from Myoshoji pond in Myoshoji park. Afterward, this river meet Kanda river. This river flow some water . There are drooping cherry around this river.

- Myoshoji Park. Myoshoji park is bigger than nearly other park. There is Myoshoji pond in Myoshoji park. There is fountain in Myoshoji pond.

- Suginami koukaidou. It walk there in 7 minute from Ogikubo station. Suginami koukaidou is building.It was built in 1957.But current building is not it. Because Suginami koukaidou is rebuilt in 2006.This building perform many kind of event.For example,perfome ceremony there for 20age's people in coming of Age Day.

- Suginami Animation Museum. Suginami Animation Museum is for general animation.This museum is shown animation.And people can experience to make animation . price is free.

- Omiyahachimangu, 2-3-1 Omiya Suginami ward, 03-3311-0105, [1]. 9:00~17:00. This is a shrine in Omiya.This shrine was built in 1053.Many people are called "Navel of Tokyo" because there are center of Tokyo.It is said in particular that success in prayer of the child care esey delivery.

- Zenpuku temple Park, 3-9-10 Zenpukuzi Suginami ward, 3396-0825, [2]. This park is near Tokyo Women's Christian University. there are a lot of greenery.This park is well-known for water lily in the pond.You can see take a boat and see them.You should go to there on June.

Do
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- Kōenji. Has many used clothing and other shops and restaurants, as well as "live houses" where bands play all genres of music. After the war many temples and shrines were moved here and now there are many walking tours to visit them.

- Tokyo Kōenji Awa Odori (阿波おどり), [3]. The Tokyo Kōenji Awa Odori is held yearly on the last Saturday and Sunday in August. About 1.2 million people show up to eat, drink and watch 188 groups (or 12,000 dancers) perform Awa dance to lively music and parade through the nine routes set up along the Shotengai station-front street. It is the second largest Awa Odori festival in Japan, after Tokushima.

- Wadabori Park. is a large park in Omiya that runs along Zenpukuji River. It is a popular place for groups and families to barbecue. There is a small pond, restaurant, and fishing tanks. There is also a children's park for bicycle training in a safe area with street signs and traffic signals. There is a traditional thatched roof house near the park as well. Kingfishers have their habitats in this area which is very rare in a city life. It's a fifteen minute walk from Nishieifuku Station on the Keio Inokashira Line, parking facilities available.

Buy
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Kōenji has a long shōtengai that is well-known for its vintage clothing and bohemian-style shops. It more or less begins adjacent to Kōenji Station and runs up to Ome-Kaido (Ome Highway) and Shin-Kōenji Station. It is composed of two sections: Pal Shopping Mall [4] and Kōenji Look [5].

Nishi-Ogikubo (西荻窪), one station down from Ogikubo, has a good selection of antique (骨董 kottō) shops with reasonable prices, but they're scattered over a fairly large area. Ask at the station for a map.

Eat
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- Baan-Esan, 2F Mitsuwa Kaikan, 3-33-15 Kita Koenji, Suginami-ku, +81 03-5327-3629. 5PM-3AM. A trip to Thailand just a minute's stroll from Koenji Station's south exit. Located on the Koenji shotengai, they serve good-sized portions of traditional Thai food but not at Tokyo prices. Most dishes are 580 yen and great for sharing. The service is less than stellar, but the Thai woman in charge of the kitchen makes the wait worth it.

- Miyagawa (みやがわ). Another yakitori-ya. It is small but has outdoor seating for about eight, and is arguably some of the best yakitori you can find. Decorated with rock and blues paraphernalia spanning from the 1940s, it's got friendly staff, good prices and great food.

- Taishō (大将), (Right across from Kōenji Station's south exit). A popular open-air yakitori restaurant. Cheap and good, it's crowded late into the night with the young and old working on tomorrow's hangover. Just look for the big red sign and tables made from milk crates. Two other locations of Taishō are also near the station: one about 100 meters west of the station adjacent to the train tracks out the same exit, and another about two blocks straight north of the north exit.

- Zats Burger Cafe, [6]. A growing burger chain serving up the famous Sasebo Burger, which is the result of homemade recipes handed down by American troops during the 1950s in Sasebo, Nagasaki. Burgers run 690 yen for a regular size (which is generally enough) and 1,380 yen for a large. Alcoholic beverages run from 530 yen to almost 1,000 yen so it's definitely not the cheapest place to drink in Koenji.

- Ebisu Yakitori, (Turn right just outside the south exit and follow the smell of grilling chicken.), [7]. Don't let the glitzy photos on the website fool you. This branch consists of a sometimes changing string of tiny storefronts, kiosks, and rickety tables in the alley running west from the south exit of the station. Get ready for a raucous and very crowded and chaotic but fun experience. Per piece fromas low as ¥90.

Drink
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- B-Glad. A large restaurant-bar just north of the intersection of Ome-Kaido and the main street leading to Kōenji Station. The menu is a blend of Japanese and Western dishes (pasta, salad, pizza, yakitori) ranging from 450 to 1200 yen. Located in the basement, it's extremely spacious by Japan standards, with comfortable seating, free billiards, and two electronic dart boards. Highballs are 550 yen and beer 600 yen. Very friendly staff and 50s music.

- Bar Rumholic, Koenji-Kita 3-3-9, +81 03-3310-3461, [8]. 8PM-3AM. Rumholic is a nice small rock'n'roll oriented bar located near the Koenji station. The owner is a friendly guy who plays guitar and also builds them. cheap.

Sleep
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- The Koenji, 2F,3F 3-22-2 Koenji-kita Suginami-ku, Tokyo (1 min walk from Koenji station. On Chou-Line), 080-3416-9048, [9]. The place is small, just 7 rooms (4 single and 3 double) all efficiently laid out. Single room is just 2500 Yen. The guesthouse itself is just one minute from Koenji station, so you can be in Shinjuku, Harajuku or Shibuya in less than 15 minuets 2500JPY.

Contact
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