SEKAI Explorer Guide Zagreb (2011)

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Table of Content:

• Understand

• Get in

By plane

By train

By car

By bus

• Get around

Taxi

Zagreb Card

• See

The Upper and Lower Towns

Parks

Lakes

Museums

Mirogoj

Medvenica and Medvedgrad

• Do

Cinemas

• Learn

Work

• Buy

Souvenirs

Foreign books

• Eat

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

Desserts

• Drink

Bars and pubs

Clubs

• Sleep

Budget

Hostels

Private accommodation

Mid-range

Splurge

• Contact

Internet

• Stay safe

• Cope

Reading and Speaking

Embassies

• Get out

Understand

Zagreb is a vibrant city of around a 800 000 people (metropolitan area: 1 200 000). The city boasts a charming medieval 'old city' with architecture and cobbled streets reminiscent of Vienna, Budapest, Prague and other Central-European capitals. In 2005 it was visited by over half a million tourists, mainly from Austria, Germany and Italy.

Get in

By plane

Zagreb International Airport [1] (IATA: ZAG) (ICAO: LDZA), is located 17km south-east from the city center in the district of Pleso.

- Croatia Airlines, [2], the national carrier and member of Star Alliance, flies to Amsterdam, Barcelona, Brussels, Copenhagen, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Gothenburg, London, Madrid, Moscow, Munich, Paris, Podgorica, Pristina, Tel Aviv, Rome, Sarajevo, Skopje, Vienna, Zurich. Domestically, Croatia Airlines operates numerous flights to Split, Dubrovnik, Zadar, Osijek (seasonal) and Pula.

- THY-Turkish Air Lines [3] flies to/from Istanbul daily

- Lufthansa [4] flies several times a day to Munich and Frankfurt, and low-cost carrier German Wings [5] flies to and from Cologne, Stuttgart, Hamburg and Berlin (Schönefeld).

- Austrian [6] operates many flights to Vienna each day.

- CSA Czech Airlines [7] flies from Prague to Zagreb all year round.

- TAP Portugal [8] flies from Zagreb to Lisbon three times a week (Wednesdays, Fridays, Sundays) via Bologna in Italy.

- Wizz Air [9] flies between Zagreb and London (Luton Airport).

- Iberia [10] operates flights to Madrid from Summer 2009.

- SAS [11] operates flights to Stockholm. - but this service is currently suspended since mid-2009

- BH Airlines [12] connects Sarajevo and Mostar with Zagreb.

- Air France [13] operates flights to Paris (Charles de Galle)

- Aeroflot [14] flies to Moscow.

- MALEV [15], the Hungarian national carrier, flies 3 times daily to Budapest

- Spanair [16], operates direct flights to Barcelona from Summer 2010.

- EasyJet [17], has direst flights fo Dortmund, London Gatwick and Paris Charles de Gaulle

Neighboring airports in Rijeka, Ljubljana, Graz, Klagenfurt and Trieste are serviced by low-cost carriers and are often a viable alternative to travelling directly to Zagreb. EasyJet [18] flies to Rijeka, Ljubljana and Ryan Air [19] flies to Pula,Graz and Klagenfurt.

There is a bus link between the airport (Zračna luka) and the bus station (Autobusni kolodvor) in Zagreb. A single (one-way) ticket costs 30 kuna (~ 4,2 Euro). The bus leaves the airport at 7AM and every thirty minutes between 8AM and 8PM. Between the last regular bus at 8PM and the first one at 7AM the next morning, there is a bus leaving for the bus station every time a Croatia Airlines plane lands. [20], car renting information.

The bus line between the bus station and the airport is slightly more complicated. Full details are available in English from [21]. The buses are located at the edge (facing city center) of the bus station. You'll see "croatia airlines" and "eurolines" written on that part of the building.

By train

Zagreb is a railway hub which has direct services to major European cities such as Vienna (6 hours), Budapest, Zurich, Munich, Berlin, Salzburg, Venice, Ljubljana, Sarajevo(one-way ticket costs 59BAM), Thessalonika, Belgrade as well as domestic services to all major towns (except Dubrovnik). There is also an all-year-round overnight train (with sleeping compartments) between Zagreb and Split.

Rail travel times within Croatia have been made competitive with car travel in many instances with new 160kph “tilting trains” connecting Zagreb with Split and other major cities in Croatia such as Varaždin, Osijek and Požega. If you make a reservation early enough you can get a substantial discount.

Tourists coming from or going to neighbouring capitals should note the following EuroCity and InterCity railway lines:

- EC "Mimara": Frankfurt - Heidelberg - Stuttgart - Munich - Salzburg - Ljubljana - Zagreb

- EC "Croatia": Vienna - Maribor - Zagreb

- IC "Kvarner": Budapest - Zagreb

- EN "Venezia": Budapest - Zagreb - Ljubljana - Venice

- B "Lisinski": Munich - Salzburg - Ljubljana - Zagreb

- B "Zürichsee": Zurich - Innsbruck - Ljubljana - Zagreb - Belgrade

- EC "Sava": Munich - Salzburg - Ljubljana - Zagreb - Belgrade

Most services are operated by the Croatian Railways [22], whose schedules are also available on the internet in English.

By car

Almost all highways (motorway; autocesta in Croatian) in Croatia start or end in Zagreb.

Travellers from Vienna can pass by Graz and Maribor and then take the A2 highway upon entering Croatia. Mind the toll in Slovenia.

Travellers from Budapest can pass by Székesfehérvár and then use the Croatian A4 motorway. It also connects Varaždin.

Travellers heading from Serbia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Greece and Turkey can use the Croatian A3 motorway to reach Zagreb.

Travellers heading from Ljubljana can use the A3.

Travellers coming from the west - Italy, as well as Rijeka or Istria - can use the A7 motorway (near and bypassing Rijeka), A6 motorway (Rijeka-Bosiljevo) and then the A1 (Bosiljevo-Zagreb).

Those travelling from Italy can bypass the expensive motorway toll in Slovenia by using the state route SS21 through Trieste, route E61 through Slovenia (in a bad shape) and then A7 south to Rijeka, then Rijeka bypass, then A6 east to Bosiljevo and A1 northeast to Zagreb.

Travellers heading from the south - Dalmatian coast (Zadar, Split, Dubrovnik, ...) or from Montenegro - can use the A1 highway, often combined with the state roads D8 (by the coastline) and D1 (through the hinterland).

To use highways in Croatia you must pay a toll either in Croatian national currency, the Kuna, or in Euro. One may also pay by credit card- American Express, Diners, Master Card, Maestro or Visa cards. A third option is to use the HAC Smart Card, which can reduce the cost of travelling on the Croatian highways by 10-25%. It is issued by Hrvatske Autoceste [23], but pays off only if travelling more than 500 km (that's a return trip Zagreb-Zadar or Zagreb-Serbia) or 250 km for a seasonal Smart Card (a return trip Zagreb-Rijeka or two return trips to Zagreb from Austrian border). You can find a toll calculator here (click Calculator on the left navigation bar).

By bus

The central bus station (Autobusni Kolodvor) is located to the south-east of the railway station - approximately 10 minutes walk, or 3 stops by tram (lines 2 and 6). Timetable information and prices can be found on the AKZ website [24].

Numerous Croatian and International coach operators maintain scheduled lines covering all major domestic and European cities, as far as London, Paris, Rotterdam and Amsterdam, numerous cities in Germany, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Slovakia, Czech Republic, Slovenia, Hungary, many destinations in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Montenegro, and Macedonia.

Get around

Zagreb has a well-developed and efficient public transport system that consists of trams, buses and trains. The tram network (route map [25]) operates 24 hours a day - from 4AM to 12AM there are 15 "day-time lines" (tram lines 1-9, 11-15 and 17), and from 12AM to 4AM there are 4 "night" lines (tram lines 31-34) which cover most of the day-time lines on a reduced (around 30-40 minute) frequency. Occasionally, buses replace trams on night lines. Tram line 3 does not operate Saturdays, Sundays and on public holidays. There are maps of the tram lines on almost every stop, so if you know the nearest stop to your destination you can simply figure out the shortest trip while you're at the stop.

As for the buses, there are 113 day-time and 4 night lines. ZET buses cover the area outside the city center, as well as some neighboring towns that administratively belong to Zagreb county. The buses use the same ticketing system as the trams.

A historic funicular railway (uspinjača in Croatian), one of the steepest in the world, operates between the lower and upper towns. Monthly, daily as well as single tram/bus ticket can be used, otherwise there is a small fee for a ride.

The price of a single one-zone ticket valid for 1.5 hours is 8 Kunas (~ 1.1€) when bought from a newspaper stand or ZET ticket office or 10 kn (~ 1.3€) when bought from the tram or bus driver. It can only be paid in local currency Kuna. There is also a 24 hours ticket (dnevna karta) available at 25 Kuna (~ 3.5 €). Buy a ticket and punch it (insert it) in the little orange machine once you enter to validate. All single tickets are transfer tickets valid in multiple vehicles traveling in a single direction, so you won't need a new ticket when switching trams and/or buses. Tariff zone system exists, but only for townships and communities outside of Zagreb city limits, all trams are in zone 1, as well as buses in the City of Zagreb. If you plan on taking more than two rides, buy a daily ticket.

Trains operated by Croatian Railways [26] (Hrvatske Željeznice) run every 15 minutes from east to west, connecting the suburbs of Zagreb with the central railway station. They are usually the quickest form of transport for those coming from the areas of Zagreb far from the railway station (Glavni kolodvor), or beyond the tram network.

Taxi

Whether you arrive in Zagreb by airplane or train and you need transportation to your final destination (hotel, apartment or private accommodation) you can use taxi service by calling 060800800. Taxi usually comes within 10 to 15 minutes from the call except in busy summer season where it depends on how much business they have. (Croatia area codes). You can also book online your transportation which is great when you are in a hurry or have a larger number of people in need of transportation, or you just want everything organized in advance. Zagreb airport transfer [27] has tariffs, service details and you can make bookings.

Zagreb's taxis are plentiful, as they are among the most expensive in the world (due to the monopolistic position of the taxi drivers' union[28]. Starting rates as of June 2005 are fixed at 19 kn (~2,5 €), the price per kilometer is 7 kn/km (~0.95 €/km), waiting by the hour is 50 kn/h (~6,8 €/h) and an additional fee for luggage is charged (3 kn per piece (0,4 € per piece of luggage)). Bear in mind that all the rates go up 20% from 10 PM to 5 AM (Mon-Sat) and during Sundays and national holidays (the whole day). Taxis are readily available at the Pleso international airport and offer a ride to the city center at a fixed rate of 150 kn (~21 €). Taxis are obliged to have their taxi-meter on and you won't fare well if you try to bargain.

Their monopolistic position has recently been challenged. Taxi Cammeo, a new competitor, is an alternative to Radio Taxi, with prices way below Radio Taxi's. Starting rate is HRK 15 (about 2€) and includes 2 kilometres. The price for every next kilometre is 5 HRK (0,7€). Due to regulations, they are not able to pick up customers at the Pleso Airport.

Zagreb Card

Travelers who are staying for several days should consider buying the Zagreb Card [29]. The card offers unlimited travel on public transport in Zagreb, discounts at virtually all of the city’s museums, reduced prices at many restaurants, shops, and service providers and many other concessions. It costs 90 kuna (approx. 12 euros) and is valid for 72 hours from the date and time entered on the card. Holders of the card also receive a special booklet with a list of all of the establishments and the discounts available to them. The card can be purchased at any of Zagreb's Tourist Information Centers and at the reception desks of the majority of Zagreb’s hotels.

See

The Upper and Lower Towns

Gornji grad, (Upper Town) and Donji grad (Lower Town) are the cultural, religious, and commercial hubs of Zagreb. These are where most of the restaurants, bars and tourist sights are located. The Upper Town, which is the medieval core of the city, developed as two separate (and often warring) towns - Kaptol, the seat of the Bishop (where the imposing Cathedral now stands), and Gradec, the free town where tradesmen and artisans lived (proclaimed by King Bela of Hungary in the 12th century) merged in the 1770s to form the northern section of historic Zagreb. Following this, the city expanded south of today's Trg Bana Josipa Jelacica (Jelacic Square) to the railway station and the Sava River.

- Old Town Gate, at the top of Radićeva street (Upper Town). now a shrine to virgin Mary - the "Kamenita vrata" where you can light a candle and, as the locals believe, your wish will be granted. Please be silent, even if just passing through the Gate.

- Strossmayer šetalište. In the summer, it is an outdoor scene for painters, musicians and other artists offering food, drinks, performances and concerts. Popular meeting place for all ages, with a great view of the Lower Town.

Parks

- Maksimir Park & Zagreb Zoo, (tram #7 if you are coming from the Central Bus Station or trams #11 and #12 from the main square or the #4 of your coming from the railway station). The biggest park in Zagreb. Great place to chill out, drink coffee, eat lunch (picnic or at the park's restaurant) or take nice long walks through the forest or by the small lakes. Good for joggers, cyclists, also child and dog friendly. Offers lake rowing. The 85-year old zoo has red pandas.

Other city parks are connected in the "Lenuci Horseshoe", an unfinished project of combining small green squares and parks at the core of the center of the town.

- Zrinjevac Park, (just south - east of the main square). the park of the Academy (connecting the Zrinjevac and Tomislav parks).

- King Tomislav square, (south of Zrinjevac, just outside the main Train Station).

- Botanical Gardens, (south of the K. Tomislav Square, near the Hotel Esplanade).

- Mažuranić square.

- Square of Maršal Tito, (the green square sorrounding the National Theatre).

Lakes

Zagreb has two very popular lakes:

- Jarun, (at the south part of the city. Tram #5 or #17), [30]. Jarun Lake is a recreational area based around a large lake where locals go to relax, exercise - and party! The centerpiece of the area is the actual lake itself, which is used for windsurfing and has a large rowing section with spectator stands. There are also shingle beaches surrounding the water, alongside which are several bars that get very busy during the weekends but are also nice for a sunny lunchtime snack. All the bars there are considered 'fancy' places and usually play commercial music.

- Bundek. hosts horticultural shows, firework festivals, workshops, concerts and music festivals (mostly during the summer).

Museums

Most museums and historical sights close at 1PM on Sundays and do not reopen until Tuesday.

- Muzej Mimara (Mimara Museum), Trg Franklina Delanoa Roosevelta 5, (mimara@mimara.hr). Tue-Wed,Fri-Sat 10am-5pm; Thu 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-2pm. Houses some 3,700 works of art donated by Ante Topić Mimara. The collection comprises more than 1,500 exhibits dating from the prehistoric period up to the 20th century. Some of the most famous exhibits include works by Lorenzetti, Raffaello, Giorgione, Veronese, Caravaggio, Canaletto, 60 paintings by the Dutch masters Rembrandt, Van Goyen, Ruisdael, 50 works by the Flemish masters Van der Weyden, Bosch, Rubens, Van Dyck, more than 30 by the Spanish masters Velasquez, Murillo, Goya, some 20 paintings by the German masters Holbein, Liebermann, Leibl, some 30 paintings by the English painters Gainsborough, Turner, Bonington and more than 120 paintings by the French masters Georges de la Tour, Boucher, Chardin, Delacroix, Corot, Manet, Renoir, Degas.

- Arheološki Muzej (Archaeological Museum), Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, [31]. Possesses over 400,000 objects, not all of them being exhibited. The holdings include evidence of Croatian presence in this area as well as rare samples which have made the museum known to the whole world. The most famous are the Egyptian collection, the Zagreb mummy and bandages with the oldest Etruscan inscription in the world (Liber Linteus Zagrabiensis), as well as the numismatic collection. A part of the museum is set aside for the collection of stone monuments dating back predominantly to the Roman period.

- Muzej Suvremene Umjetnosti (Museum of Contemporary Art), Avenija Dubrovnik 17, [32]. Follows and presents contemporary trends in fine arts. 30 kuna.

- Klovićevi Dvori, Jezuitski trg 4, [33]. introduces Croatian and foreign cultural and artistic heritage.

- Umjetnički Paviljon (Art Pavilion), Trg Kralja Tomislava 22, [34]. Designed by by famous Viennese designers of theatres in Central Europe Hellmer and Fellmer. A neo-classical exhibition complex and one of the landmarks of the city center. The exhibitions are also held in the impressive Meštrović pavillion on Trg žrtava fašizma.

- Hrvatski Muzej Naivne Umjetnosti (Croatian Museum of Naïve Art), Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, [35]. Houses more than one thousand works belonging to Croatian naïve art.

- Moderna Galerija (Modern Gallery), Hebrangova 1, [36]. Comprises all relevant fine artists of the 19th and 20th centuries.

- Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza), Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2, +38514851021 (info@brokenships.com), [37]. every day from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., during summer time from 9 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.. What remains after a break-up? Museum's permanent display is an opportunity to experience a unique emotional journey through dozens of love leftovers collected from all around the world. Museum is also the winner of Kenneth Hudson Award 2011 for the most innovative museum in Europe.

- People and Art House Lauba (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba), Prilaz baruna Filipovića 23a, [38]. Every day from 3 p.m. to 11 p.m.. Presents works from the Filip Trade Collection, a large private collection of modern and contemporary Croatian art and current artistic production.

Mirogoj

Mirogoj is the central cemetery of Zagreb. It was opened in 1876 north of the city center. The mortuary, the impressive and picturesque arcades with the church of Christ the King (architect H. Bollé, 1883-1914) make it one of the most impressive cemeteries in the world. Here stand the tombs of notable personalities (including that of basketball hero Drazen Petrovic) who are relevant to Croatian history. To arrive from the central square, go to the near-by Cathedral and take bus number 106 (Kaptol - Mirogoj - Krematorij). The ride takes approximately 10 minutes. Note: the Croatian Day of the Dead is on November 1st. You may find the sight of hundreds of thousands of candles after nightfall impressive and worth seeing, but you may take note that on that day and a few preceding and following days the cemetery will be very busy and quite different from usual peaceful appearance; on those days buses to the cemetery are very frequent but crowded.

Medvenica and Medvedgrad

The imposing mountain overlooking Zagreb (Medvednica) contains a preserved fortress (Medvedgrad) and fascinating views of the city. Being respectful in the fort is a good idea, since it is the site of the Altar of the Homeland memorial, dedicated to Croatian soldiers who died in the Homeland war. There are several historical festivals during the year, including knights tournaments.

The gree jewel of a mountain Medvednica is over 1000m high covers a large area with many excellent hiking and biking routes. Since Zagreb is at roughly 120 m, it is quite a climb.

There are many small restaurants, mountain grills and cafes at the top of the mountain, open until early evening. In the early and late summer it can be crowded in places, especially on weekends.

It is possible to take the bus up to the top, Sljeme, from the end of the Tram system at Mihaljevac. This bus replaces the gondola, although there are allegations that this will eventually be rebuilt. The bus takes a circular route and comes back to the same place. It take about 30 minutes up, less coming down. Many other buses serve small villages at the foot of the mountain where the mountain paths start/stop.

Do

- Snow Queen Trophy: Ladies Night Slalom [39]: Zagreb is the only capital in the world that hosts a Ski World Cup race. The slalom event - known as the "Snow Queen Trophy" (Snjezna kraljica) - usually takes place in January. It is the most expensive race on the women's world cup tour and an exceptionally popular sporting event in Croatia that attracts a crowd of around 25 thousand people. As of 2007 best skiers in men's competition are also expected to compete on Mount Sljeme that overlooks the city. If you fail to secure your ticket, you can watch the whole event on a giant screen in the Ban Jelacic Square.

Cinemas

- Most English-language movies are subtitled, not dubbed; only children's movies are dubbed.

- A ticket will cost you 20-30 HRK (3-4€)

- About 30 HRK is the combined price of a medium popcorn and cola.

- CineStar Zagreb, Branimirova 29; ticket reservation +385 1 46-86-600, [40]. A multiplex cinema (13 screens) in the vicinity of the Sheraton Hotel. The website is in Croatian, but can be understood using a Croatian-English online dictionary.

- CineStar Novi Zagreb, Avenue Mall, Avenija Dubrovnik 16. [41]. A multiplex cinema (9 screens) in the vicinity of the Museum of Contemporary Art.

- Movieplex, Nova Ves 11; +385 1 48 60 777, [42]. A multiplex cinema (5 screens) within the Kaptol Shopping Center situated to the north of the Cathedral.

- Kino Europa, Varšavska 3. - this cinema is located in the city center.

- Kino Croatia, Katančićeva 3; +385 1 48-13-711.

- Kino Jadran, Ilica 42; 062-100-100 (within Croatia).

- Kino Central, Petrinjska 4; 062-100-100 (within Croatia).

- Kino Tuškanac, [43]. Showing more than just European filmography, alternative and older films, sometimes for free, usually costs about 10 HRK (1.5€)

Learn

The University of Zagreb combined with the Croatian Heritage Foundation Matica Hrvatska offers comprehensive Croatian language courses for foreigners. The courses occur in the fall and spring semesters along with an intensive one month course in July. All courses cost around 600 Euro. More information can be found by visiting the University's website.

Many universities in Croatia accept a small group as international students every year, who stay in dorms and learn Croatian.

FER (Fakultet elektrotehnike i računarstva, trans. Faculty of Electrical Engineering and Computing) is a globally-appreciated school of mechanical and computer related learning. It is part of the University of Zagreb and accepts around ten international students a year.

Work

For creative types, Croatia is occupied by some street performers and many stands selling jewelery or other hand-crafted products, so the populace has an open mind to casually buying things from an interesting stand near the main square or dropping a few coins into a musician's case.

Buy

There are many small grocery stores around Croatia such as Konzum and Diona. There you can buy most necessary foods, hygiene products and items like cigarettes and alcohol. If you have a more specific need (like appliances, cutlery) or wish to go bulk shopping then try one of the larger Konzums, Kaufland or Mercator. Bread in Croatia is sold unsliced and is generally inedible after the second day of life, so if you don't eat bread much then ask for half a loaf "pola". Most brands that you likely know from home, like Nutella or M&M's, can be found in the larger stores but are rather expensive. Trying a domestic alternative or knock-off is not a bad idea.

Zagreb also has designated areas, the singular being a "platz", where you can buy and barter for clothes and shoes as well as perfume, chocolate and souvenirs. Illegally imported cigarettes are also often sold for cheap there (because of high importation taxes).

Souvenirs

- Turistički Informativni Centar, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11 (in the central squar). Sells everything ranging from postcards and books to pottery and crystal

- GEA Gallery, Radićeva Street 35. a wide range of souvenirs that are handmade in Croatia and are very reasonably priced. Very knowledgeable staff.

- Millennium, Radiceva 9 (off Jelacic square). Pottery, crystal, costume jewelery, and other gifts.

Foreign books

- Algoritam, Gajeva 1, [44].

- Profil Megastore, Bogovićeva 7.

Eat

Tobacco smoking is banned in all enclosed public spaces, including restaurants and some (but not all) bars and cafes. The smaller bars / cafes could opt (and some did) to allow smoking.

Budget

Mid-range

- Arcotel Allegra, Branimirova 29 (300 meters from the central railway station (Glavni kolodvor)), +385 1 46-96-000, [82]. 4-star hotel which is Zagreb's first "lifestyle" hotel. All rooms are spacious and air-conditioned and feature mini bar, safe, internet connection, bigscreen TV and DVD player. A very cool touch are the free apples supplied in your room in a very funky holder!

- Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria, Petrinjska 71 (not far from the central square of Ban Jelačić), +385 1 48-08-900, [83]. 3-star hotel

- Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb, Trg Kresimira Ćosića 9 (in the business district of Zagreb some 2.5 kilometers away from the central railway station (Glavni kolodvor)), [84]. 4-star hotel.

- Hotel Aristos, Cebini 33, Buzin (in the vicinity of the Zagreb airport at the southern gates of Zagreb, in the Buzin commercial center), +385 1 66-95-900, [85]. 4-star hotel.

- Hotel As, Zelengaj 2A (2.5 km north-west of the railway station (Glavni kolodvor)), +385 1 46-09-111, [86]. 4-star hotel.

- Hotel Central, Branimirova 3 (150 meters from the railway station (Glavni kolodvor)), (+385 1 48-41-122, [87]. 3-star hotel refurbished in 1996.

- Hotel Dora, Trnjanska cesta 11 (behind the Lisinski Music Hall (south of the main railway station - Glavni kolodvor)), +385 1 63-11-900, [88]. 3 star hotel.

- Hotel Dubrovnik, Gajeva 1 (overlooking Zagreb's main square - Ban Jelačić Square), +385 1 48-63-500, [89]. 4-star hotel.

- Hotel Holiday, (at the western entrance to Zagreb not far from the Zagreb Fair), +385 1 34-96-621, [90]. 3-star hotel.

- Hotel I, Remetinečka cesta 106 (near the southern entrance into Zagreb, south of the Sava and in the vicinity of Zagreb Fair), +385 1 65-42-238, [91]. 3-star hotel.

- Hotel International, Miramarska 24 (several hundred meters south of the central railway station), +385 1 61-08-800, [92]. 3-star hotel.

- Hotel Jadran, Vlaška 50 (in the city center some 500 meters east of the Cathedral), +385 1 45-53-777, [93]. 3-star hotel. There is a big shopping center near-by - the Importanne Gallery.

- Hotel Laguna, Kranjčevićeva 29 (near the Cibona Business Tower), +385 1 30-47-000, [94]. 3-star hotel.

- Hotel Phoenix, Sesvetska cesta 29 (in an eastern suburb of Zagreb - Sesvete. It is located some 500 meters from the motorway on the main road that leads from Zagreb to Dugo Selo.), +385 1 20-06-333, [95]. 3-star hotel

- Palace Hotel, J.J. Strossmayer Square, +385 1 48-14-611, [96]. 4-star hotel. It was built in the Secession style in 1891 and converted into a hotel in 1905. The Arts Pavillion is 50 metres away.

Splurge

- Regent Esplanade Zagreb, Mihanovićeva 1 (just across the central railway station), +385 1 45-66-666, [97]. Built in 1925 for passengers of the famous Orient Express train, which connected Paris and Istanbul. If you can, check the Emerald Ballroom with its soaring dome shaped roof. The hotel also includes the Zinfandel's Restaurant, Le Bistro and the Esplanade 1925, the hotel's lounge and cocktail bar.

- Sheraton Zagreb Hotel, Kneza Borne 2, +385 1 45-53-535, [98]. Features air-conditioned rooms and suites with classic furniture and marbled bathrooms. It also includes King Tomislav Restaurant, Fontana Restaurant, Piano Bar, Café Imperial, 17 meeting rooms and an 800-square-meter Grand Ballroom.

- Westin Zagreb, Kršnjavoga 1 (next to the Mimara Museum and the Croatian National Theatre), +385 1 48-92-000, [99]. The hotel was renovated in 2004. It features the legendary Heavenly Bed and Heavenly Shower and probably offers the best view in the city.

Desserts

- 100% juice bar, Tkalčićeva 5 (in the center of Zagreb. Down some stairs - look for the small sign). Pricey but a good place to get a healthy snack or fruit smoothie.

- Ivica and Marica, Tkaličićeva. Offers traditional and diet, diabetic and organic cakes, ice creams and such.

- SladoMazo, Zelinska 7. A pancake restaurant with a wide range of crazy both sweet and satly filling ideas.

- Torte i To, Nova Ves 11, second floor of the Kaptol Centar. A great little caffe offering the best cheese cake in town, and other great cakes

- Vincek, Ilica. Closed on Sundays.. The local, best known ice cream and cake palace in town center. Offers diet foods.

Drink

Bars and pubs

Many bars are located around Flover square (Cvjetni trg), the main square (Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića), Preradovićeva, Tkalčićeva, Radićeva, Bogovićeva, and Gajeva streets.

- Booksa, Martićeva 14d, [59]. A cafe/bookshop/library famous with local young intelectuals.

- Cica, Tkalčićeva. Bar mostly known for its great and varied choice of the local schnappses (rakija). Interresting always changing, gallery-like interior. The whole bar is small but offers outdoor seating. Very popular and crowdy, brimming with young bussiness and student clientelle.

- Funk. Cafe / bar that offers various music night programmes in the basement (moslty alternative, dj-s, world music) and spacial backpacker evenings.

- Golf, Preradovićeva. Until 2am. Popular golf-themed cafe/bar.

- KIC, Preradovićeva. Offers free internet and cheap international call center. Hosts a cinema wtih various alternative movies.

- Kino Grič, Jurišićeva. Newly re-decorated old cinema. Hosts movies, festivals, music nights and Zagreb's hipster crowd.

- Krivi Put (Wrong Way), Runjaninova 3. Closed:(

- Mali Medo, Tkalčićeva. Offers a good choice of local beer and food. Indoors smoking prohibited. Has a terrace facing Tkalčićeva street.

- Melin, Tkalčićeva. A cheap bar brimming with young people and students. Offers indoors, a roofed terraced leveled seating and an open terrace facing Tkalčićeva street. Known for crowds of people often drinking even arround the bar, in the park and playgroung in front of it.

- Oliver Twist, Tkalčićeva. A choice of good Irish beer with a great atmosphere. Big summer terrace in front.

- Pivnica Medvedgrad.

- Bar Plan B, Tkalčićeva 84, 014811285, [60]. A cafe/wine bar/sports bar. Attracts a mix of locals and tourists. You can expect music from every genre, and decade, from Jazz to Alternative/Indie.

- Portal, Tkalčićeva. Next to Melin, offers same service, the Portal and Melin crowds often mix at the outdoors terraces.

- Purgeraj, Park Ribnjak. A bar/club located in the Ribnjak park in the city center. Offers mostly rock, blues and alternative music. Daily happy hour when you get two drinks for the price of one. Sometimes hosts concerts. Popular with student crowd esp on Thursdays when it hosts the newly popular "take me out" evening offering a mix of indie and alternative music. In the summer, outside Purgeraj, in the Ribnjak park there are live concerts and various workshops offering summer fun under the name 'Park In Zagreb'.

- Tolkien's House, Opatovina. A small fantasy cafe/bar for Tolkien lovers. Offers a variety of beers, cider and hot drinks.

Clubs

- Aquarius, Aleja Matije Ljubeka bb (Jarun Lake), [61]. Saturday night is drum'n'bass & dancehall music, Friday is hip-hop/r'n'b night. Good concerts.

- Boogaloo, Ulica Grada Vukovara 68, +385 1 6313 022, [62]. Good electronic music. A bit expensive but worth seeing. Bar, restaurant and disco.

- BP Club, Nikole Tesle 7, (+385-1) 481 44 44,, [63]. Open daily from 10 PM to 2AM. Jazz and blues lovers should check it out.

- Hopdevil, [64]. A new bar, featuring live music on Tuesdays and Thursdays, plus a DJ on Saturday nights, it has 101 different types of Belgian beer. The unique interior features a waterfall that runs along entire wall, and stone archways. The water from the waterfall flows beneath a glass floor, which you can sit on.

- Jabuka, Jabukovac 28, 01/48 34 397. Cult club for alternative, punk music. Cheap drinks opened on weekends, often concerts of alternative bands. Mostly visited on weekends, especially Fridays. Admission fee: 25 HRK.

- KSET, Unska 3, [65]. A popular student club. Offers various indie and alternative programmes every night of the week. Indoors smoking prohibited. Serves only beer and non alcoholic drinks. Entrance prices from 10kn (students) to 45/60kn for concerts..

- Močvara, Prisavlje, [66]. A local alternative club (rock, punk, metal, indie)with various concerts and theme nights/programmes. Sometimes hosts festivals, young indie talent concerts, movie nights, exibitions etc.

- SAX! - Klub hrvatskih glazbenika, Palmotićeva 22/2, (+385-1) 48 72 836, [67]. A great place to enjoy live music of a wide array of styles including blues, jazz, rock and pop.

- Sirup, Donje Svetice 40, [68]. Interesting interior and atmosphere. Good electronic music. A bit expensive entrance fees, but worth seeing.

- The Best, Jarunska 5 (out near the Jarun Lake complex), +385 1 3011 943, [69]. Largest club in Zagreb. Mainly dance style music.

- The Jazz Club, Gunduliceva. Open daily. Jazz, blues, and funk bands, often from other countries.

Sleep

Budget

Hostels

- Buzz Hostel, [70]. Furnished with modern, ikea furniture. Also a location in Split. Dorm bed: 120 kuna.

- Dizzy Daisy Hostel Zagreb, [71]. Dorm bed: 100-150 kuna.

- Fulir Hostel Zagreb, [72]. 2 rooms, including a 12-bed dorm. Great place to meet people, but can be a wait to use the bathroom.

- Funk Hostel, Poljicka Street 13a, [73]. Dorm bed: 95 kuna.

- Hobo Bear Hostel, Meduliceva 4, [74]. Dorm bed: 105 kuna.

- Hostel Carpe Diem, Milana Sufflaya 3, [75]. Dorm bed: 80 kuna.

- Hostel Lika, Pašmanska 17, [76]. Small and cozy hostel a bit out of the city center. Dorm bed: 100 kuna.

- Hostel Mali Mrak Zagreb, Dubicka 8, [77]. Dorm bed: 100 kuna.

- Nokturno Hostel, Skalinska 2a, [78]. Free internet access, free linens and towels. Dorm bed: 130 kuna; Single: 200 kuna.

- Old Town Zagreb Hostel, Dordiceva 24 (Ulica Ignjata Dordica). Dorm bed: 100 kuna.

- Ravnice Youth Hostel, I. Ravnice 38d, [79].

Private accommodation

- Apartment AS Zagreb, Crnčićeva 2 & Račićeva 12, +385 98 669 660, [80]. Two affordable and cozy apartments in a very quiet neighborhood Maksimir near city center. €50-100.

- Apartment Rupa Pod Oblacima & Penthouse Zagreb, +385 99 5622 485, [81]. Lovely and cozy aprtment near centre of Zagreb, with beautiful view of to the whole city. The penthouse apartment is a 120 square meter duplex. 1-bedroom apartment: €50-70; 2-bedroom penthouse: €85-105.

Mid-range

- Arcotel Allegra, Branimirova 29 (300 meters from the central railway station (Glavni kolodvor)), +385 1 46-96-000, [82]. 4-star hotel which is Zagreb's first "lifestyle" hotel. All rooms are spacious and air-conditioned and feature mini bar, safe, internet connection, bigscreen TV and DVD player. A very cool touch are the free apples supplied in your room in a very funky holder!

- Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria, Petrinjska 71 (not far from the central square of Ban Jelačić), +385 1 48-08-900, [83]. 3-star hotel

- Four Points by Sheraton Panorama Hotel Zagreb, Trg Kresimira Ćosića 9 (in the business district of Zagreb some 2.5 kilometers away from the central railway station (Glavni kolodvor)), [84]. 4-star hotel.

- Hotel Aristos, Cebini 33, Buzin (in the vicinity of the Zagreb airport at the southern gates of Zagreb, in the Buzin commercial center), +385 1 66-95-900, [85]. 4-star hotel.

- Hotel As, Zelengaj 2A (2.5 km north-west of the railway station (Glavni kolodvor)), +385 1 46-09-111, [86]. 4-star hotel.

- Hotel Central, Branimirova 3 (150 meters from the railway station (Glavni kolodvor)), (+385 1 48-41-122, [87]. 3-star hotel refurbished in 1996.

- Hotel Dora, Trnjanska cesta 11 (behind the Lisinski Music Hall (south of the main railway station - Glavni kolodvor)), +385 1 63-11-900, [88]. 3 star hotel.

- Hotel Dubrovnik, Gajeva 1 (overlooking Zagreb's main square - Ban Jelačić Square), +385 1 48-63-500, [89]. 4-star hotel.

- Hotel Holiday, (at the western entrance to Zagreb not far from the Zagreb Fair), +385 1 34-96-621, [90]. 3-star hotel.

- Hotel I, Remetinečka cesta 106 (near the southern entrance into Zagreb, south of the Sava and in the vicinity of Zagreb Fair), +385 1 65-42-238, [91]. 3-star hotel.

- Hotel International, Miramarska 24 (several hundred meters south of the central railway station), +385 1 61-08-800, [92]. 3-star hotel.

- Hotel Jadran, Vlaška 50 (in the city center some 500 meters east of the Cathedral), +385 1 45-53-777, [93]. 3-star hotel. There is a big shopping center near-by - the Importanne Gallery.

- Hotel Laguna, Kranjčevićeva 29 (near the Cibona Business Tower), +385 1 30-47-000, [94]. 3-star hotel.

- Hotel Phoenix, Sesvetska cesta 29 (in an eastern suburb of Zagreb - Sesvete. It is located some 500 meters from the motorway on the main road that leads from Zagreb to Dugo Selo.), +385 1 20-06-333, [95]. 3-star hotel

- Palace Hotel, J.J. Strossmayer Square, +385 1 48-14-611, [96]. 4-star hotel. It was built in the Secession style in 1891 and converted into a hotel in 1905. The Arts Pavillion is 50 metres away.

Splurge

- Regent Esplanade Zagreb, Mihanovićeva 1 (just across the central railway station), +385 1 45-66-666, [97]. Built in 1925 for passengers of the famous Orient Express train, which connected Paris and Istanbul. If you can, check the Emerald Ballroom with its soaring dome shaped roof. The hotel also includes the Zinfandel's Restaurant, Le Bistro and the Esplanade 1925, the hotel's lounge and cocktail bar.

- Sheraton Zagreb Hotel, Kneza Borne 2, +385 1 45-53-535, [98]. Features air-conditioned rooms and suites with classic furniture and marbled bathrooms. It also includes King Tomislav Restaurant, Fontana Restaurant, Piano Bar, Café Imperial, 17 meeting rooms and an 800-square-meter Grand Ballroom.

- Westin Zagreb, Kršnjavoga 1 (next to the Mimara Museum and the Croatian National Theatre), +385 1 48-92-000, [99]. The hotel was renovated in 2004. It features the legendary Heavenly Bed and Heavenly Shower and probably offers the best view in the city.

Contact

Internet

- Art Internet Caffee [100], Tkalčićeva 18, "Art" is an internet cafe bar, situated in the very center of Zagreb (Tkalčićeva 18), just a few steps from the Ban Jelačić square. In this modern and comfortable bar you can enjoy a fine selection of beverages as well as a large variety of computer services. Tel:+385 1 48 11 050. Open M-Su 08.00 - 23-00.

- Aquarius net, Kralja Držislava 4.

- Art Net Club, Preradovićeva 25.

- KIC, Preradovićeva 5/1.

- Klub SC,Savska 25.

- Mama, Preradovićeva 18, is one of the coolest and cheapest cyber cafes in the city. They charge 10kn (1.36E) per hour or you can pay by the minute. Wireless connection, Skype, cool juices and coffee are available. The place is run by Multimedia institute [101], a nonprofit organization working in the fields of new media culture and digital technology, so there's chance of meeting some of the local and international cutting-edge artists or attending some interesting program.

- MMC Zagreb [102], Gajeva 17, "MMC" is an internet point (Gaming & Surfing & Call & Fax), situated in the very center of Zagreb (Gajeva 17), just a few steps from the Ban Jelačić square. Tel:+385 1 48 72 671. Open Mon-Sun 09.00 - 23-00.

- Sublink, Teslina 12.

- Vip, Preradović square 5.

- Vip, Ibler square.

Stay safe

As other cities in Croatia, Zagreb is very safe, but just as anywhere else dark alleys, parks during the night, etc. should generally be avoided, and common sense should be followed. The chance of getting in trouble in Zagreb is fairly low, especially in the center where most of the hotels and restaurants are located, and for foreigners who are in general respected and welcome. Visitors soon realize that Zagreb is way safer than the vast majority of other European capitals such as London, Paris, Vienna, Rome, Budapest, etc.

Pickpocketing isn't a particularly common occurence in Zagreb, but you might be approached by beggars and similar people on the street - ignore them and they will go away.

Park Ribnjak, located very close to the city centre, is safe during daytime and worth visiting, especially for children. However, it has recently become a night-time meeting place of alternative youngsters, and subculture violence involving "skinheads" and similar violent young people has occasionally occurred. It's best to steer clear of Ribnjak after dark, which shouldn't be a problem because of a lack of interesting content for most tourists anyway.

Avoid clubs which play what is known in Croatia as "Turbo-folk" music. These clubs are often featured in the local newspapers as violence erupts in them quite easily.

Also, avoid strip clubs at all costs. Zagreb is not famous for such clubs and they are rare, however most of them are often run by very shady characters, and often overcharge their guests. Recent cases include foreigners that were charged 2000 euros for a bottle of champagne. These clubs overcharge their customers to the extreme, and their bouncers will not have any mercy if you tell them you are unable to pay. You will soon find yourself in a local hospital. This not only applies to strip clubs in Zagreb, but also all over Croatia.

Cope

Reading and Speaking

Croatian children start learning a foreign language in primary school, and for the majority it is English, so younger people can usually speak the language well enough, and many older people know some. You may also try German or Italian, as both are popular (for historical and cultural reasons).

It is also advisable to learn a some basic Croatian words and phrases - because Zagreb can be a vibrant, busy city, a few basic molim or oprostite will go a long way to avoid being ignored by a busy local.

Embassies

- Canada, Prilaz Gjure Dezelica 4 10000 Zagreb, Croatia, (385) 1 488 1200 (zagrb@international.gc.ca, fax: (385) 1 488 1230), [103]. Monday to Thursday: 10:00 - 12:00 and 13:00 - 15:00 Friday: 10:00 - 13:00.

- Macedonia, Kralja Zvonimira 6/1 10000 Zagreb, +385 1 457 2812 (zagreb@mfa.gov.mk, fax: +385 1 462 0369), [104].

- United States, [105].

- United Kingdom, Ivana Lučića 4 10000 Zagreb Zagreb, (385)(1) 6009 100 (fax: (385)(1) 6009 111), [106]. Mon-Thurs: 0830-1700; Fri: 0830-1400.

Get out

- Samobor - a picturesque medieval town with well preserved old lore and long tourist tradition. 25km west of Zagreb, accessible by bus (~30 min distance from Zagreb, ticket price ~20 HRK).

- Vrbovec - a town for all who would like to see the typical way of Croatian life. 32km northeast of Zagreb, accessible by bus.

- Karlovac - a stunning town at the intersection of 4 rivers. 45 km southwest of Zagreb, accessible by bus.

- Ljubljana, Slovenia